What are the principles of pruning? Which branches need to be pruned? What are some pruning tips?
▼As shown in the diagram below, the spacing between branches A, B, and D is relatively close, so branch A can be considered for removal. Branches B and C are parallel and closely spaced, so one of them can be considered for removal.
▼In the image below, the branches at the top are very dense. Consider pruning some of them. The × indicates the location for pruning. Make the cut as close to a node as possible.
After trimming ▽
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After trimming ▽
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▼The red X part is also a lower branch, and its vigor is weaker than branches A and B. Leaving it will consume too much of the plant's nutrients, so it should be cut off.
After trimming ▽
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After trimming ▽
▼Leaf buds that cannot grow normally should be pruned. The double arrows indicate the pruning tips.
▼Downward-growing or horizontal leaf buds should be removed. The leaf bud indicated by the arrow is growing downwards and cannot receive enough sunlight, so it can be cut off directly.
▼The arrow indicates a lateral (secondary) bud, which should be removed. If the bud is not removed in time, it will produce parallel, thin, weak branches. See the second picture below.
If you don't remove them, it will eventually grow like the picture below. The thinner and weaker branches on the left are the branches that grew from the lateral buds, while the stronger branches are the branches that grew from the main bud. At this point, you should also remove the thinner and weaker branches on the left. The lateral buds on the strong branches should also be removed.
After trimming ▽
▼The overlapping horizontal buds after flowering should be cut off, that is, the bud that the arrow points to.
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Gardenia before pruning ▼
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Before and after trimming ▽
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Before and after trimming ▽
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Prune multi-headed branches ▼When multiple branches are used, remove the weak ones and keep the strong ones. The red crosses indicate pruning tips.
Before and after trimming ▽
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Before and after trimming ▽
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Image showing the result after trimming ▽
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Root pruning If the soil is not turned and the pot is not changed in time, the final result will be as shown in the picture below: the roots cover the pot wall, with old and new roots overlapping, and some roots may even be damaged. The final result will be to affect the growth of the plant.
If you loosen the soil ball and find that the roots are knotted, this usually happens because the plant has been planted for too long (several years), the plant is aging and the root system is deteriorating. Another possibility is that the plant was not repotted in time, causing the roots to become knotted. If the roots are like this, the plant needs to be discarded immediately. If you want to develop it into a bonsai, you can cut off the knotted roots and replant it.
Another example is the root system shown in the picture below. Although there are nodules, the new roots are damaged because the pot is too small. The damaged roots should be trimmed before repotting.
When cutting off old roots, be careful not to damage the original healthy root system. You can wash the roots thoroughly with water before cutting off the necrotic parts. As for how to distinguish between good and bad roots, you can look at the area indicated by the arrow in the picture below. Are the colors different? The black part is the necrotic part, which can be cut off.
Image showing the result after trimming ▽
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▼Weak branches that sprout closely spaced from strong branches can be pruned to conserve nutrients and reduce waste. The red crosses indicate pruning tips.
Before and after trimming ▽
▼When multiple branches are used, remove the weak ones and keep the strong ones. The red crosses indicate pruning tips.
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Before and after trimming ▽
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The effect after trimming ▽
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Before and after trimming ▽
▼Remove closely spaced branches sprouting from the top to conserve nutrients and reduce waste. The red crosses indicate pruning tips.
Before and after trimming ▽
▼The double arrows indicate the inner horizontal branches, which also need to be pruned. The red crosses indicate the pruning locations.
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Before and after trimming ▽
2. Depending on the needs of the potted plant, leave 2-3 branches at the base as the main stem, and cut off the rest. Make the cut as close to a node as possible.
The main stem, after final trimming and shaping ▽
A panoramic view of the pruned osmanthus trees ▽
Jasmine before pruning ▼
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Branches pruning ▼Branch A is a vigorous branch that has grown wildly and is beginning to take shape. It can be pruned back. Cut it off at the position indicated by the double arrows. The branches with red crosses are pruning tips.
▼Branch A is a diseased (dead) branch and should be pruned. Branch B is an overgrown branch. Overgrown branches are branches that grow vigorously with water and fertilizer and should be pruned back to encourage the growth of lateral branches.
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▼Branch A and lateral branch B are 4-5 year old branches. They should be pruned according to the principle of "removing weak branches and keeping strong branches, removing old branches and keeping new branches". Keep branch C (new branch) and prune it back accordingly, as indicated by the red double arrows, to allow it to grow lateral branches. The horizontal line indicated by the double arrows and the branches with red crosses are pruning tips.
The effect after trimming ▽

Final Summary
These issues need attention when pruning potted plants


Before pruning, you need to understand your plants, including their physiological habits and flowering locations. For example, roses, pomegranates, hibiscus, and jasmine bloom on the current year's branches, and these types of flowers can be heavily pruned to encourage more branching.

For plants that bloom on two-year-old branches, such as winter jasmine, plum blossom, azalea, and peach blossom, pruning is usually done in winter or after flowering to encourage new shoots. Pruning should not be done in early spring before budding to avoid affecting flowering.

Keep the inside, not the outside; keep the straight lines, not the horizontal lines.

Buds pointing towards the center of the plant are called inner buds, and buds pointing outwards are called outer buds. Pruning is primarily done at the outer bud locations. Pruning at the locations marked with blue lines encourages outward growth, ensuring good ventilation and light exposure for the plant. Pruning at the locations marked with red lines encourages inward growth, which can lead to overcrowding and negatively impact ventilation and light penetration.
Diseased branches, dead branches, weak branches, overly vigorous branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches...

The cut should not be too close to the bud to avoid the cut drying out or becoming infected, which could affect the growth of the bud.

Plants that readily produce new branches, such as wintersweet and winter coral, can be pruned to encourage new growth and make the plant fuller.

For plants that don't readily branch, such as camellias and magnolias, only light pruning is needed. Simply remove diseased, dead, and unruly branches. Excessive pruning is unnecessary.

For vines with soft branches, such as winter jasmine and honeysuckle, it is necessary to prune dead and diseased branches in a timely manner to ensure ventilation and light penetration for the plant, and at the same time to ensure that the plant is evenly distributed.














































