Hua Mu Jun

Early spring flowers, caught between dormancy and budding, are best pruned at this time. This allows for the guidance and restriction of their development according to plan, benefiting both their aesthetic appeal and their growth. As Chen Haozi wrote in "The Mirror of Flowers" during the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty: " If all kinds of flowers and trees are allowed to sprout branches and shoots freely, it will inevitably hinder their vitality. Those that need pruning should be pruned, and those that need straightening should be removed, so that the branches can grow freely and gracefully. " This reflects the accumulated experience of our predecessors in horticulture over many years.

Pruning bonsai and flowering plants can achieve various purposes, including: improving ventilation and light penetration, promoting growth; shaping and enhancing aesthetics; regulating tree vigor and extending lifespan; and removing pests and diseases to restore health . To make the flowers appear more elegant, it is important to choose the appropriate time for pruning and master the correct pruning methods.

[Timing of Flower Pruning and Shaping]

The timing of flower pruning: Flower pruning can be carried out during the dormant period and the growing season, but the specific timing should be determined based on the different flowering habits, cold hardiness and pruning purpose of each plant .

1. Many woody flowering plants that bloom before their leaves appear in early spring generally form their flower buds in the summer and autumn of the previous year. If they are pruned before they sprout in early spring, the flowering branches will be cut off. Therefore, pruning should be carried out within 1-2 weeks after flowering. However, at this time, the plants have already begun to grow and the sap flow is relatively vigorous, so the amount of pruning should not be too large.

2. Flowering trees that bloom in summer and autumn often have their flowers or inflorescences growing on new shoots, so pruning can be done before they sprout, during their dormancy period. Foliage plants can also be pruned during their dormancy period.

3. When pruning dormant trees, those with strong cold resistance can be pruned in late autumn and early winter, but not too early, as this will induce autumn shoots; those that are sensitive to cold should be pruned in early spring when sap begins to flow, but before budding.

4. Plant Shaping. The purpose of sawing off thick branches or pruning is for rejuvenation; therefore, heavy pruning is best done during dormancy. Pruning during the growing season is mainly to regulate vegetative growth, so bud removal and pinching are common practices. Light pruning includes removing overly vigorous shoots.

[Flower Pruning Methods] There are many methods for pruning and shaping flowers. Aside from techniques like wiring and shaping, the general methods are as follows:

1. Heading back: This involves pruning off a portion of a branch to shorten it. Heading back is commonly used on flowering plants and is generally best done during dormancy. Its purpose is to encourage the growth of lateral branches; to direct newly sprouted branches toward a desired space; or to adjust growth vigor. For example, when heading back to achieve a uniform crown width, strong branches can be headed back; if heading back is to restore growth vigor, weak branches can be heavily headed back to encourage the growth of strong new shoots.

【Note】 When pruning, pay attention to the direction of the bud at the cut, ensuring it faces towards sparser branches or outwards. The cut should be smooth, angled at 45° in the opposite direction to the bud, with the lower end of the cut aligned with the tip of the bud. It is important to note that terminal flower buds should not be pruned.

2. Root pruning: Removing part of the root system. For example, when transplanting seedlings in spring and autumn, shorten the excessively long taproot to encourage the growth of lateral roots; when potting or repotting flowers, moderate root pruning can inhibit excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote flower bud formation. Root pruning is generally carried out during the dormant period, but it can also be done during the growing season if the plant is growing excessively.

3. Pinching: Pinching off the tips of new shoots with fingers or scissors aims to inhibit tall growth, promote nutrient accumulation, encourage the sprouting of lateral branches, thickening of the shoot, or flower bud differentiation. Sometimes, pinching can also be used to adjust the growth of adjacent shoots, suppressing strong growth and supporting weaker ones, or to pinch lateral branches to make them auxiliary branches to the main stem, promoting straight and vigorous growth. Pinching can be performed on both herbaceous and woody flowering plants.

4. Bud Removal and Sprout Removal: Removing axillary buds or newly sprouted tender branches serves the same purpose as thinning branches, conserving nutrients. Bud removal is also a type of bud removal; the method involves leaving the central, terminal flower bud and removing the rest. This is suitable for chrysanthemums, large-flowered chrysanthemums, and roses, etc. The purpose of bud removal is to concentrate nutrients and encourage the remaining flowers to grow larger and more vibrant. For fruit-bearing plants with many young fruits, excess fruits can also be removed, allowing the remaining fruits to grow more abundantly.

5. Pruning: Remove dead, diseased, insect-infested, thin, overly vigorous, dense, and useless branches to adjust the shape of the branches, making them more evenly spaced and allowing for better ventilation and light penetration. This should generally be done during the dormant period.

Note: When thinning branches, the remaining stub should not be too long, nor should it cut into the next level of branch. Generally, the cut should be made at a 45° angle from the branching point, and the cut should be smooth. For flowering trees with weak sprouting ability, such as magnolia grandiflora and magnolia denudata, the amount of thinning should be less.

6. Ring barking, bud wounding, and branch twisting: These three methods all aim to regulate growth by damaging a portion of the branch. Ring barking is often performed at the base of new shoots, promoting nutrient accumulation above the barked area and facilitating flower bud differentiation. Bud wounding is performed above buds that are about to develop, making deep incisions that reach the xylem to encourage sprouting. Branch twisting is mainly used for upright, overly vigorous shoots, twisting them to a horizontal position to inhibit growth; twisting also promotes bud formation.

7. Flower Enticement: Climbing herbaceous or woody flowering plants can be trained onto trellises to enhance their visual appeal. When cultivating large upright chrysanthemums, umbrella or round trellises are often used to create a fuller, more visually appealing display. Furthermore, to aid plant growth and maintain a neat shape, bamboo shoots or reeds can be used as supports for both outdoor and potted plants, tying the flower branches to them.

In early spring, flowers and seedlings gradually awaken. By pruning and shaping them, they can grow according to the overall design concept, thus achieving healthy growth and enhancing their aesthetic appeal. However, it is important to note that the temperature is unpredictable in early spring. Pruned flowers and bonsai should not be moved outdoors immediately. Wait until the temperature stabilizes to avoid damage from a sudden cold snap.