Orchid Planting Tips
Substrate Chapter
Due to the different types of orchids, different climatic conditions in their origins, and different ecological habits, their cultivation and management methods are also different. In order to give orchid lovers an overall concept of how to grow orchids well, this article introduces the basic principles of orchid cultivation and management technology and the experience of predecessors and us in practice.
Orchid planting not only refers to the "replanting" of domestic cultivated varieties (i.e., mature grass), but also includes the "new planting" of wild orchids (raw grass). In addition, in addition to replanting for the purpose of division propagation, replanting is also required in special circumstances, such as merging, adding fertilizer, removing insects and treating diseases. In addition, in terms of the way of orchid planting, there are also potted planting, ground planting, epiphytic planting, basket planting, stump wrapping, bonsai and other types selected according to factors such as orchid type, cultivation environment and cultivation purpose. It can be seen that the concept of orchid planting has far exceeded the meaning of "division", "replanting" and "dividing pots".
Preparation of culture soil
Planting orchids requires special culture soil, also known as "orchid mud". The culture soil for orchids should be loose and breathable, with good ventilation, appropriate amount of fertilizer, and no hidden diseases and insect pests. The composition of culture soil is made of one or several basic components (matrix). These basic components include soil, fertilizer, and other materials, and there are many types. Some components seem to have nothing to do with "soil", but they are all matrices that orchids rely on to stabilize the plants and grow and develop.
(1) The formula of culture soil. Orchids in East China generally like to use orchid mud from Shaoxing, Yuyao and other places. In recent years, Emei "Hewang" brand fairy soil has also been popular, but these culture soils are limited in quantity and expensive, and can only be used for repotting. Large-scale planting requires hundreds or thousands of tons of culture soil, so we can only use local materials. After years of practice and repeated screening, we have determined that the best formula is: four parts of yellow sand, four parts of sawdust, and two parts of river sand; if it is yellow loam, then one part of river sand, one part of sawdust, and one part of yellow loam. All are fully mixed. The pH value of the prepared culture soil should be between 6.5 and 6.8. It should be loose and breathable, with good water retention and air permeability, and comprehensive nutrition. River sand and sawdust serve as water conduction and ventilation. Sawdust is decomposed by bacteria and can slowly release nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc. Yellow loam also contains a variety of trace elements. After years of observation, this formula is very suitable for orchid growth. It is especially suitable as a substrate for the domestication and cultivation of wild orchids. It is suitable for spring orchids and cymbidium orchids, and is also ideal for Jianlan and Hanlan. Both the flowering rate and stress resistance are significantly increased.
(2) Bamboo root mud. It refers to the soil at the roots of bamboo clumps that have been planted for many years. Due to the growth of bamboo whips and bamboo roots and the decay of bamboo leaves and bamboo shoots, this soil becomes a loose structure, well-drained, and fertile but not overly fertile soil suitable for orchid growth. The quality of bamboo root mud depends on three factors: first, the original soil quality, which is the predecessor and foundation of bamboo root mud, and sandy loam is the best; second, the age of bamboo clumps. The longer the bamboo clumps are planted, the more effective the bamboo roots, leaves and whips are; third, the distance from the bamboo stump. The closer the soil is to the bamboo stump, the better.
(3) Sweet potato bran soil. Sweet potato bran is made by harvesting, drying and crushing the plants of green manure (Astragalus sinensis). Mix sweet potato bran with bamboo root mud or general sandy loam, pile it up and rot it to make sweet potato bran soil. The preparation method is: choose a place that is sheltered from rain, spread a layer of sweet potato bran on a layer of soil, water it with pig manure water, and pile it up layer by layer; after the pile is completed, sprinkle water on the surface to moisten it, and then apply thin mud to seal it. It can be used after six months of pile fermentation. When using, add other culture soils in proportion.
(4) Leaf humus soil. Use dead leaves or grass, tall stalks to pile up and water or fertilize, apply thin mud to seal, and then compost and sieve. It is best to use grass that has not yet produced seeds, and fully compost it to kill pests and weed seeds, otherwise there will be a lot of weeds in the orchid pot in the future.
(5) Mountain mud. This is the soil in the mountains where wild orchids originally grew. It is the dead branches and fallen leaves that have been piled up and rotted for many years and mixed with soil. Naturally formed leaf humus contains rich humus, is loose and breathable, and is very suitable for the growth of orchids. If transportation is convenient, it is relatively simple and economical to dig a large amount of mountain mud for planting orchids. It is better to use it for domesticating grass. The humus soil under broad-leaved forests, especially the leaf humus soil under chestnut trees, is an ideal soil for orchids.
(6) Pond mud. In conjunction with the winter repair of ponds and fish ponds, dig out mud from them, dry it, and then break it into fine particles. It can be used to grow all flowers, including orchids.
(7) Field soil. That is, choose loose topsoil in the field, mix it with a little sandy soil or rice husk ash, and then add some decomposed compost or fermented bean cake, rapeseed cake and other organic fertilizers to improve the soil structure and enhance the fertilizer effect. After turning the pile several times and mixing it evenly, sieve it. This kind of soil is nearly neutral and not as good as humus soil. Therefore, it is only used reluctantly when there is no suitable humus soil or mountain sandy loam. It is mostly used to cultivate coarse orchids.
(8) Cow dung soil. Break the fermented dry cow dung into powder and mix it into sandy soil or topsoil of field soil in a ratio of 1:3. It is best to choose cow dung that is fed dry feed in winter, because after the dry grass is regurgitated by the cow's stomach, although the fiber is fine, it is still elastic and contains certain nutrients. This kind of cow dung soil is soft and fertile, which is very suitable for the roots of orchids. People in the orchid art circle in Taiwan often use this kind of cow dung soil as a filling material for cultivating terrestrial orchids, and the effect is very good.
In foreign countries, when cultivating orchids, humus or leaf humus is generally used with 5 parts of sand or 1 part of sand; or 3 parts of peat soil is used with 1 part of river sand and crushed cow dung, mixed thoroughly before use. The cultivation medium of epiphytic orchids is mainly moss and ferns, with a small amount of leaves, small pieces of charcoal and crushed dry cow dung.
Before planting orchids in soil, the soil should be exposed to the sun for disinfection and sterilization. In summer, spread the soil and expose it to the sun for more than 3 days to kill the germs and eggs in it.
The pH value of the culture soil should be measured and adjusted before use. For over-acidic soil, lime can be used to adjust it. For over-alkaline soil, superphosphate, ferrous sulfate, etc. can be mixed into the soil. In short, it is better to control the soil pH value to be neutral and slightly acidic (i.e. pH 5.5-7). It is a better way to use organic fertilizers, such as grass and leaves to make fertilizers and add them to the soil to change the soil pH.
In addition, before planting orchids, the nutrient soil should be sieved and graded to separate large and small particles. When planting orchids, place large grains at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. At the same time, the degree of dryness and wetness of the soil should also be adjusted. It should not be too wet or too dry. It is best to squeeze the soil ball in your hand, and the soil can form a ball; loosen your hand and shake it off, and the soil will be scattered into particles. This is the right dryness and wetness.
Perlite is a good substrate for soilless orchid cultivation. Planting orchids with perlite can make the orchid root system develop and grow vigorously, and rarely rot. Perlite is light and soft, free of pests and diseases, with moderate pH, and there is no resistance to the growth and extension of orchid roots. The roots are mostly upright and extended, white and strong, and the orchid leaves are lush and green, and the flowers are good. Perlite has strong water filtration, and there is no water accumulation in the flower pot with bottom holes. Because of its slow water dispersion, even if you forget to water it when it is time to water it, it will not be too dry. After more than two years of comparative practice, the author believes that perlite is a good substrate for soilless orchid cultivation.
Using perlite as a soilless cultivation substrate for orchid cultivation has the following advantages:
1. 1. No impurities and no bacteria, not prone to diseases and insect pests.
2. Watering is done immediately, without the problem of incomplete watering or half-watering.
3. Lightweight, reducing labor and reducing the bearing capacity of the balcony.
However, perlite also has its disadvantages:
1. Perlite itself does not have any nutrients, and regular watering with nutrient solution and foliar fertilizer are required to meet the needs of orchid seedling growth.
2. Green algae are easy to appear on the surface of perlite under sunlight. In order to prevent the growth of green algae, a layer of bean-sized pebbles can be covered on the surface. This kind of stone is used as the bottom of the fish tank and can be bought in stores selling ornamental fish. It is relatively smooth and has no sharp edges and corners. It will not hurt the normal growth of leaf buds and flower buds, and it can also make the surface of the pot beautiful.
Perlite is light and is easily washed away by air flow or water when spraying or watering orchids. With the pressure of pebbles, this disadvantage will not occur. Covering the surface of the pot with a layer of pebbles is really killing two birds with one stone.
There are no special requirements for maintenance and management. It is the same as general orchid cultivation. It is just necessary to pay attention to fertilization during the growing season of orchids. Do not apply farmyard manure (organic fertilizer). Organic fertilizer generally has incomplete elements, that is, there are more macroelements and less trace elements. It is necessary to apply full-element fertilizers to prevent orchids from having nutrient deficiency and to enable them to grow in a balanced manner. The author has always practiced never to water with clear water (no fertilizer water), but to add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution or fertilizer to the water.
(Solid fertilizers must be fully dissolved before watering). When using fertilizers or nutrient solutions, use them according to the manufacturer's product instructions. Do not exceed the amount to prevent fertilizer damage. Foliar fertilizers must be applied once a week during the growing season of orchids. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be applied more heavily during the reproductive growth period, which is very beneficial for flowering. In winter, orchids are in a semi-dormant stage. From November and December to January of the following year, only foliar fertilizers can meet their needs.
Perlite has good air permeability and moderate water content. The porosity of perlite is 93%, which is easy to drain and easy to breathe. For orchids that have strict requirements on water content, it is ideal to choose perlite. Perlite itself contains trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, manganese, chromium, copper, boron, and molybdenum, but most of them are not absorbed and utilized by orchids and other plants. This is why it is necessary to fertilize on time when using perlite to grow orchids.
When buying perlite, it is best to choose large particles, which are more conducive to air permeability. When potting, it is better to use semi-dry ones. When semi-dry, perlite is in a loose granular state, which is conducive to filling the roots and there will be no voids in the pot. When perlite is wet, it is easy to adhere to blocks and is inconvenient to pot.
Perlite dust is highly irritating to the throat. Before use, it must be sprayed with water to prevent dust from flying. In addition, perlite contains fluorine, which is harmful to plants. It must be rinsed with water twice before use. In cities where it is convenient to buy perlite, perlite can be used alone. In order to save perlite when it is inconvenient, perlite and slag can be used in a ratio of 1:1. It is best to sieve out slag of the size of mung beans, but honeycomb coal slag cannot be used.
After 2 years of use, inorganic salts may adhere to perlite. In this case, you can soak it in soft water (after boiling water is cooled) for 2 days and then take it out and reuse it. Perlite can also be used to cultivate flowers such as Clivia and azalea. Because of its good air permeability, it is also a good medium for cutting seedlings.
Planting
1,
whether it is replanting or new planting, the choice of timing has a great impact on the survival, growth and development of orchids. Therefore, it is very important. Generally, the more suitable time is the dormant period of orchids, that is, March-April, before the new buds are unearthed; in terms of season, it is between the spring equinox and Qingming. If the new buds are unearthed, it is very inconvenient to operate, and the new buds will be broken or injured if you are not careful. When the dormant period of orchids is about to end, the new buds and new roots are about to grow but have not grown yet. This is the best time for planting. Soon after planting, the roots can be taken out and sprouts can be restored to normal growth. If the orchid is planted too early, it will not be easy for it to "resurrect" after planting. If it encounters low temperature, cold wave, late frost, and spring thunder, it will often cause frostbite. In the winter, the orchid room in the Yangtze River Basin is rarely heated. The winter is very cold, so it is not recommended to divide the plants in severe winter.
In order to facilitate the operation of division, the soil can be properly dried before division. Make the roots white, produce inconspicuous shrinkage, and make the originally brittle and easily broken fleshy roots become soft, so that the roots will not be broken too much during division and potting.
For large-scale orchid nurseries, the planting workload is large and the time spent before and after is long. Precious varieties should be arranged to be planted at the best time. Ordinary varieties can be postponed or advanced as appropriate.
2. Orchids propagated by orchid seedlings
should be selected with good growth and no diseases or insects. After 2-3 years of planting, orchids need to be repotted or repotted, and division should be combined with propagation at this time. When repotting, hold the bottom of the flower pot with your left palm, and carefully extend your right fingers into the orchid seedlings and leaves to block the pot soil. Then turn the orchid pot upside down, tilt the pot body sideways to face you, and let the lower edge of the pot mouth touch the ground. At this time, lift the pot slightly upward with both hands at the same time, so that the lower edge of the pot gently hits the ground to loosen the pot soil, turn the pot body, change the contact point of the lower edge of the pot mouth hitting the ground, and let the pot soil gradually loosen evenly and leave the flower pot. Hold the orchid plant with your right hand and remove the flower
pot with your left hand. For the larger plants that have been selected and cleaned. Find the natural gap between the two pseudobulbs that is wide and easy to loosen when shaken by hand, cut the two pseudobulbs apart, which the predecessors called "opening the road". Then use both hands to control the base of the two clusters, shake and pull along the "road" to separate them into two clusters.
Prune the separated orchid clusters appropriately, and then dry the orchids in a cool and ventilated place. When the orchid roots are soft and easy to bend, they can be planted. Generally, it only takes half a day to dry the orchids when the weather is clear. Of course, they should not be dried too dry.
3. The orchid clumps separated by the planting procedure
should not be too scattered. Each clump should have at least 3-5 seedlings. It is best to keep one-year-old plants, two-year-old plants and three-year-old plants in the same clump.
(1) Pot pad. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a tile, and then gradually fill it with bricks, tiles or shells. The large gaps should be filled with mud or pebbles, which is generally about 1/2-1/3 of the height of the pot. The remaining net height is about 10-15 cm, which is reserved for the culture soil layer. The specific height should be determined according to the type of orchid, the length of the orchid roots and the height of the pot. The bedding should not be filled too densely or too solidly, and a little pore should be left. Practice has shown that some new roots can grow well in the pores of the bedding layer.
(2) Planting. On the bedding layer, first add 2-3 cm of culture soil, slightly compact it with your hands, and then place the orchid upright on it. Depending on the size of the plant and the flowerpot, you can plant several single plants, 2, 3 or more clumps in one pot. 3 clumps should be planted in a tripod shape. 4 clumps can be planted in a square shape, and 5 clumps should be arranged in a plum blossom shape. The orchid roots should stretch naturally and the leaves should spread out in all directions. Slowly place the orchid roots into the pot so that the roots stretch naturally and try not to rub against the inner wall of the pot.
(3) Fill the soil. When planting, hold the leaves with one hand and add nutrient soil with the other hand. Hold the base of the orchid and lift it up slightly to stretch the roots, and shake the orchid pot at the same time. Let the culture soil penetrate into the root zone; continue to add soil and shake the orchid pot to adjust the position and height of the orchid. Press along the edge of the pot with your hands, but be careful not to overdo it to damage the roots. Continue to add soil and squeeze until the soil on the surface of the pot is 2-3 cm higher than the pot mouth and slightly shaped like a steamed bun. The culture soil should cover all the orchid roots and cover the base of the pseudobulb.
The depth of the soil is traditionally believed to be shallow for spring orchids and deep for hyacinth orchids, but generally the depth should not cover the leaf base on the pseudobulb. When new orchids grow in the wild, they leave obvious marks on the soil surface, which can be used as a reference.
(4) Paving. After planting, you can spread a layer of small stones or moss on the surface of the potting soil. It is best to use high-quality moss from the forest. It is not only beautiful, but also can regulate moisture, protect the leaves from being contaminated by mud and water, and prevent the new buds from being infected by bacteria in the soil and rotting. In addition, it can slow down the erosion of the potting soil by rainwater and keep the potting soil loose.
(5) Watering. After planting, water the first time. The potting soil must be soaked. The water drops should be small and the impact should not be too strong. If placed in a basin of water, do not soak it for too long. Once the potting soil is soaked, move the orchid pot out immediately and move it to a shaded place for maintenance.
4. Maintenance and management after planting
It is important to master the orchid planting skills, but it is more difficult to manage and maintain orchids. Therefore, there is a saying that "three parts planting and seven parts maintenance". The maintenance of orchids requires understanding of the environment, accumulating maintenance experience, and patience and carefulness. The most important thing is to master the growth and development rules of orchids, so that you can definitely grow orchids well.
1. Cherish the leaves. The leaves of
orchids are soft but not weak, and upright but not stiff. Orchids are charming and lovely, but good flowers are rare, and there is nothing you can do when the flowers fall; while orchid leaves are evergreen all year round, always alive, giving people a year-round enjoyment. The elegance of orchids is reflected in both flowers and leaves. And lush leaves are the prerequisite for good flowers. Healthy leaves produce rich nutrients themselves, and there are many beautiful flowers. If the leaves are broken and there are many flowers, it is just a sign of rapid decline.
The shapes of leaf tips of different types of orchids are different. Some are gradually pointed, some are blunt and round, some are concave, and some are upturned. In terms of leaf color, some orchid varieties have "golden tips" or "silver tips" (that is, the tip of the leaf is yellow or white), which makes them precious and rare. This adds another layer of interest in leaf appreciating.
During maintenance, you should pay attention to protecting the orchid leaves. Be gentle and careful when operating, do not bump the orchid leaves, and keep their natural posture. Carefully clean the contaminated leaves, and do not accumulate water in the center of the leaf bundle. Cut off the old and diseased leaves in time.
2.
After the flower buds emerge from the soil, if there are too many, the mother's nutrients will be consumed excessively, which will hinder the formation and vigorous growth of leaf buds. The excess thin flower buds should be removed as soon as possible, and only one flower bud should be left for each orchid seedling. Each pot should retain 3-5 flower buds.
If the flowers bloom for too long and consume nutrients, it will hinder the budding and leaf growth and flowering in the next year. The flowers of spring orchids bloom for about half a month, and the flower stalks should be cut off in time after they wither.
3. Temperature
Most areas are in temperate and subtropical zones, while orchids are generally produced in places with mild and humid climates, with higher annual average temperatures and longer frost-free periods. Orchids are rarely planted in the northeast and northwest, mainly due to temperature constraints.
The orchids in the northernmost distribution are spring orchids and Huilan. There is frost or short-term snow in their distribution lines in winter, and the temperature is higher in summer. However, since orchids mostly grow in mixed forests of broad-leaved and coniferous forests or in bamboo forests, the trees not only block the scorching sun in summer, but also resist the cold wind in winter; even if the land is covered with snow, it will not have much impact on orchids, because the snow actually plays a role in protecting orchids overwintering, and the ground temperature under the snow is generally not lower than 0℃. Our introduction and domestication of Jianlan and Hanlan have moved them 600-1000 kilometers northward from their place of origin, and they are planted on a large scale. It can be seen that the survival ability and adaptability of orchids are still relatively strong.
In most areas of Northeast, Northwest and North China, the winter is too cold and it is not suitable for orchid cultivation outdoors. From mid-to-late October to late April of the following year, it takes half a year. Orchids need to be moved indoors or in greenhouses for cultivation. In the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, orchids must also be cultivated indoors or heated in greenhouses in winter.
Orchids' temperature requirements: The temperature for orchid seeds to germinate is 21℃-25℃ during the day and 15℃-18℃ at night. The temperature required for the growth of terrestrial orchids is 20℃-22℃ during the day and 13℃-0℃ at night. During the dormant period of orchids in winter, the temperature can be lowered. For example, the minimum temperature requirement for spring orchids and Huilan in winter is 4℃-6℃ at night, and it can also be reduced to 0℃. It is also okay for the leaves of plants to drop to minus 2℃-3℃ under dry conditions. The flowers of orchids develop from flower buds, and the differentiation of flower buds is closely related to temperature and light. Many studies on the differentiation of orchid flower buds have been done by predecessors, and the conclusion is that the low temperature of 12℃-13℃ is enough to differentiate flower buds, and it is not very related to the length of sunshine. However, the more light the orchid is exposed to, the more significant the effect of low temperature on the formation of flower buds. Therefore, it is better to cultivate orchids outdoors from late spring to autumn than to grow and develop indoors.
There are three main purposes of regulating temperature, namely: winter cold protection, summer heat protection and changing flowering period.
The flowering period of orchids is obviously affected by temperature. Under normal conditions, the appropriate increase in temperature can make the flowers bloom earlier.
In summer, it is advisable to spray or spray clean water in the air, on the ground, on the flowerbed and on the orchid leaves. Because water absorbs part of the heat when evaporating, it can play a role in cooling down and preventing heatstroke; open the doors and windows in the orchid room to avoid heat accumulation.
In addition to air temperature, the temperature regulation should also pay attention to the soil temperature. The orchid roots grow in the soil, and the temperature of the pot soil has a direct impact on its physiological functions. Under normal conditions, the soil temperature is positively correlated with the air temperature. It is also necessary to pay attention to the water temperature and soil temperature when watering, and it should not be too different.
There is also a question worth discussing, that is, the relationship between artificial protection and the adaptability of orchids themselves. Like all plants, orchids also have their adaptability to the external environment. They are not born delicate. Therefore, when orchid growers protect orchids from heat and cold, their measures should be appropriate. Covering too densely and for too long will inevitably weaken their resistance to adversity. Our orchid nursery selects orchids of Hanlan and Jianlan introduced and domesticated from 600-1000 kilometers away in the south. In addition to protection, we also gradually let them enhance their resistance to adversity and gradually adapt to the new environment.
Cultivation
1. The original environment of productive ground-grown
orchids is to grow between mountains and valleys, with high and cool terrain and shade from trees, forming a moist microclimate. The temperature difference is small and the air is clean. When introducing and domesticating, we should first simulate their wild environment so that they can be planted with luxuriant flowers and leaves. At present, with the development of industry and urban modernization, greening work cannot keep up with the pollution from factories and transportation. Therefore, orchids cultivated in cities are not as strong as those grown in suburbs. For this reason, the orchid nursery we built is located in the southern suburbs of Hefei, the capital of Anhui Province, on the south side of the Jianghuai watershed. The annual average temperature is 16℃, the annual rainfall is 1008 mm, and the frost-free period is 250 days. It is different from the original cattle environment of wild orchids, and is far different from the meteorological factors of the native places of Hanlan and Jianlan. Therefore, we have made careful design and practical arrangements for the adjustment of environmental factors in the domestication and planting of orchids. The orchid nursery covers an area of about 15,000 square meters and is rectangular. There is a rectangular pond in the nursery to store rainwater. A 2.5-meter-high bamboo is fixed every 2.5 meters in the nursery. The bamboo is tied horizontally on the top to form a frame to lay the first layer of shading net. A horizontal thin bamboo is placed 20 cm below the first layer of shading net to lay the second layer of movable shading net. The first layer of shading net is basically fixed from spring to autumn, and the second layer can be retracted or released as needed. Carefully adjust the light and temperature.
The width of the seedbed is 1.2 meters, the length is 12-16 meters (depending on the terrain), the height is about 30-40 centimeters (5-7 bricks high), the interval between the seedbeds is 50 centimeters, and the width of the passage is 130 centimeters. It is convenient for daily management. In winter, a plastic greenhouse is built for every two beds to keep warm. Pay attention to snow removal on snowy days to avoid the plastic greenhouse being crushed by too much snow. Build two water tanks with a water storage capacity of 1 cubic meter per mu (one mu ≈ 667 square meters) to handle tap water. In winter, 100-150 watt light bulbs are installed about 4 meters apart in the plastic greenhouse, mainly for warming.
2. Open-field cultivation
(1) Planting Qiaolan in the shade of trees. This is for the purpose of viewing. It is planted appropriately on the ground in front of the house, corner of the wall or tourist area with sparse shade of trees, but the original barren clay must be dug out and replaced with loose humus soil or good field topsoil. In winter, spread some straw on the mud surface of the roots to prevent frostbite of the orchid roots. If there is severe cold, straw mats or other soft coverings should be laid over the leaves to prevent frost damage. This type of ground-planted orchids can be left to grow naturally, except for the need for enhanced management and protection during the hot summer. Orchids planted in the open are crude species without petals. The cold-resistant coverings can be removed in the spring of the following year when the weather warms up. After years of growth, as long as it is watered and fertilized in time, it is still relatively adaptable and can bloom every year with a faint fragrance, making it a good choice for embellishing the countryside. However, when arranging orchids for ground planting, in addition to considering the quietness of the layout, the habits of orchids should also be considered. For example, spring orchids prefer partial shade, cymbidium orchids prefer a little sun, and autumn orchids, winter orchids, and annuli orchids should not be frozen.
(2) Potted orchids. This refers to growing orchids in a shade shed. For potted orchids, it is best to use clay pots, that is, plain fired clay pots. They have good air permeability, can filter water, and are cheap. They are economical orchid planting supplies. However, clay pots are relatively rough and not beautiful, so they are not suitable for exhibitions. Porcelain pots or glazed pots look beautiful, but their air permeability and water filtration are very poor. If they are used to grow orchids for a long time, the orchid roots will easily be damaged, making it difficult for the orchids to grow vigorously. Therefore, when using porcelain pots or glazed pots to grow orchids, you must pad some drainage tiles at the bottom of the pots. Or fillers such as clams; and watering should be moderate, not excessive. If you use clay pots to grow orchids, you can put them in larger porcelain pots or glazed pots when participating in exhibitions.
Yixing purple clay pots have beautiful and generous appearances and certain air permeability, making them more suitable for growing orchids.
Newly bought orchid pots must be soaked in water for several days, especially clay pots that have just been out of the kiln must be allowed to absorb enough water to completely eliminate their dry air. Generally, when growing orchids, new pots are often used for newly planted orchids, and old pots are often used when changing pots.
It is best not to place potted orchids directly on the ground, as they are easily disturbed by insect pests and weeds. Especially in the hot summer, the scorching sun and rising ground temperature will harm orchids; during thunderstorms and plum rain seasons, the humidity and heat will rise even more, which can easily damage orchid roots; and because it is close to the ground, the ventilation is poor. It is not conducive to the growth of aerial roots. To reduce the above effects, the orchid pot can be placed on an orchid platform made of cement slabs to facilitate up and down convection, continuously supply fresh air, promote orchid respiration, enhance metabolic function, accumulate nutrients and energy production, make orchids grow strong, and prevent ants, slugs, etc. from harming orchids. If conditions are limited, an empty clay pot can be turned upside down on the ground, and then the potted orchid can be placed on it.
3. Orchid room cultivation
Orchid rooms are mainly used for terrestrial orchids to overwinter. Different types of orchids have different ecological habits, so the time and room temperature requirements for overwintering are also different.
Terrestrial orchids can be cultivated outdoors as long as the temperature is not lower than 7℃-8℃. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, it is customary to move Jianlan, Hanlan and Baosuilan, which require slightly higher temperatures, into the room for cultivation after the "Beginning of Winter". Move some Chunlan and Huilan with flower buds under the eaves of the corridor or in a cold place to avoid the invasion of the first frost and affect the development of flower buds. After the "Minor Snow", the potted orchids cultivated from pseudobulbs and thin grasses, especially the orchids with pure heart petals, are gradually moved into the room and placed on the orchid rack near the window so that they can be exposed to sunlight. After the "Heavy Snow", all potted orchids are moved indoors for maintenance. Before the orchids are placed in the orchid room, wash the area around the orchid pots first, which can prevent mud from being contaminated with insect eggs, mold, etc., and make it look clean and elegant. Pay attention to the reasonable discharge when placing the orchid pots, which is convenient for sunlight transmission and ventilation.
When the ground orchids overwinter indoors, the key is to control the temperature and humidity. Generally, the room temperature should be kept above 7℃-8℃, and the Baosuilan should be kept at 10℃-15℃. After the orchid pot is brought into the room, if the weather is not yet severely cold and frozen, the south window should be opened around noon, and the small air window on the north should be opened to facilitate indoor air circulation. In the evening, if the indoor temperature is still above 5℃, the small air windows on the north and south can be slightly opened; if it is below 5℃, all windows should be closed. In the midwinter season, only half-open the windows at noon on a windless and sunny day to allow for a little ventilation. When the sun is slightly off, the doors and windows should be closed, and straw curtains or cotton curtains should be hung in the evening. If the temperature continues to drop below 3℃-5℃, a coal stove with a chimney can be used for heating.
After the beginning of spring, the climate gradually warms up. On a sunny noon, the doors and windows of the orchid room can be opened, but attention should be paid to the changes in temperature; in the afternoon, when the temperature gradually drops, the south window should be half-opened and half-closed; all windows should be closed before nightfall. During this period, the temperature of the orchid room should be kept at around 10℃. If the temperature is too high, the early-flowering varieties of spring orchids will bloom early, and the flowers will also wilt early. In early spring, it is even more important to prevent late spring cold, which will affect the growth of stamens and even frostbite the orchid roots.
After the "Qingzhe", all spring orchids and Huilan without flower buds can be moved out of the room and placed on open-air platforms. At night, reed curtains should be added to the sheds to prevent frost damage. All kinds of orchids with flower buds should still be kept in the orchid room for maintenance, and can be moved outdoors for cultivation after the "Qingming Festival"; but care should still be taken to prevent late frost at night.
During the period of indoor orchid cultivation, especially in the cold season, special attention must be paid to the dryness and humidity of potted orchids. The pot soil should be dry. When to water, you can look at the surface of the pot. For example, when the surface soil is in a powdery and loose state, and the soil below is still slightly moist, do not wait until the pot soil is completely dry before watering. When watering, first take the potted orchid down and put it on the ground, water along the water trough at the mouth of the pot, and avoid soaking the water into the leaf bundle. You can also put the orchid pot in a water tank and soak it shallowly for a few minutes, and the water should not soak the waist of the pot. When watering, if the water soaks into the leaf sheath, you should wipe off the water marks with a cloth in time, or let it dry in the sun before moving it back indoors. Since orchids are kept indoors for a long time, a lot of dust often adheres to the leaves, which hinders metabolism. You can choose sunny and warm weather, move the pots outdoors in the sun at noon, use a fine-hole spray bottle to spray and clean the leaves, wash away the dust, and then move them back indoors after the water stains are dry. If the water stains are not dry, the wet parts of the orchid leaves are prone to blackening and withering.
When growing orchids indoors, during the heating period. The indoor temperature is often high, the leaves appear dry, the soil in the pot is dry and loose, or the moss on the pot surface is haggard. You should spray some water on the passage and wall in time to let it evaporate to adjust the temperature. In short, when growing orchids indoors, it is better to keep the orchid grass in the pot or the moss on the pot surface green.
If you are an amateur orchid grower, due to limited conditions, you can use the outdoor south-facing sunny wall, one side leaning against the wall, and the other three sides are built with bricks to form a single-sloped floor box. The size of the area can be determined according to the number of pots. The inclined surface of the floor box is equipped with a wooden frame glass window or plastic film window that can be opened and closed. Orchids with long and tall leaves should be placed in a higher position against the wall, on an inverted empty flower pot, or on bricks, strips of wood, or cement boards stacked to a suitable height. Low orchid pots should be arranged in rows forward, and all leaf tips or the tops of the ring leaves should not touch the glass or plastic film on the window surface. In the severe cold season, when the temperature is too low or on windy and snowy days, the slanted windows must be covered with straw curtains or other coverings to prevent the invasion of cold air. When the weather is fine, especially after the beginning of spring, when the sun shines, the cold-proof straw curtains can be removed; at noon, when the sun is strong and the temperature is slightly higher, the cover window can be lifted to form a gap to adjust the fresh air. The cover window should be closed immediately after the sun is deflected. In daily life, you should pay great attention to not condense too many water droplets on the cover window glass to prevent them from dripping into the leaves. The wet parts often turn black and rot, or even die.
III. Planting of orchids
1. Planting timing
Whether it is replanting or new planting, the choice of timing has a great impact on the survival, growth, and development of orchids. Therefore, it is very important. Generally, the most suitable time is the dormant period of orchids, that is, March to April, before the new buds emerge from the soil; in terms of season, it is between the Spring Equinox and Qingming. If the new buds emerge from the soil, it is very inconvenient to operate, and the new buds will be broken or injured if you are not careful. When the dormant period of orchids is about to end, and the new buds and new roots are about to grow but have not yet grown, it is best to plant them at this time. Soon after planting, the roots will sprout and resume normal growth. If the orchids are planted too early, it will not be easy for them to "resurrect" after planting. If they encounter low temperatures, cold waves, late frosts, and spring thunder, they will often cause frostbite. In the winter in the Yangtze River Basin, the orchid room is rarely heated. The winter is very cold, so it is not recommended to divide the plants in severe winter.
In order to facilitate the operation of division, the soil can be properly dried before division. Make the roots white, produce inconspicuous shrinkage, make the originally brittle and easily broken fleshy roots become soft, and do not break too many roots when dividing and planting.
Large-scale orchid nurseries have a large planting workload and take a long time. Precious varieties should be planted at the best time. Ordinary varieties can be planted later or earlier as appropriate.
2.
Orchids propagated with orchid seedlings should be selected with good growth and no diseases or insects. After 2-3 years of planting, orchids need to be repotted or repotted. At this time, they should be propagated by division. When repotting, hold the bottom of the flower pot with your left palm, and carefully extend your right fingers into the leaves of the orchid seedlings to block the pot soil. Then turn the orchid pot upside down, tilt the pot sideways to face you, and touch the ground with the bottom edge of the pot mouth. At this time, lift the pot slightly upward with both hands at the same time, so that the bottom edge of the pot gently hits the ground to loosen the pot soil, turn the pot body, change the contact point of the bottom edge of the pot mouth hitting the ground, and let the pot soil gradually loosen evenly and leave the pot. Hold the orchid plant with your right hand and remove the pot with your left hand.
For larger plants that have been cleaned up, select them. Find the natural gap between the two pseudobulbs that is wide and easy to loosen when shaken by hand, cut the two pseudobulbs apart, which is called "opening a road" by our ancestors. Then use both hands to control the base of the two clusters, shake and pull slowly along the "road" to separate them into two clusters.
Prune the separated orchid clusters appropriately, and then dry them in a cool and ventilated place. When the orchid roots become soft and easy to bend, they can be planted. Generally, it takes half a day to dry them when the weather is clear. Of course, they should not be dried too dry.
3. Planting procedure
: Do not split the separated orchid clusters too sporadically. Each cluster should have at least 3-5 seedlings. It is best to keep one-year-old plants, two-year-old plants and three-year-old plants in the same cluster.
(1) Pot pad. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a tile, and then gradually fill it with bricks, tiles or shells. Fill the large gaps with mud or pebbles, generally about 1/2-1/3 of the height of the pot. The remaining net height is about 10-15 cm, which is reserved for the culture soil layer. The specific height should be determined according to the type of orchid, the length of the orchid roots and the height of the pot. The bedding should not be filled too densely or too solid, and some pores should be left. Practice has shown that some new roots can grow well in the pores of the bedding layer.
(2) Planting. First fill the bedding layer with 2-3 cm of culture soil, and slightly compact it with your hands. Then you can place the orchid upright on it. Depending on the size of the plant and the flower pot, you can plant several single plants, 2 clusters, 3 clusters or more in one pot. 3 clusters should be planted in a tripod shape. 4 clusters can be planted in a square shape, and 5 clusters should be arranged in a plum blossom shape. The orchid roots should stretch naturally and the leaves should spread out in all directions. Slowly place the orchid roots in the pot so that the orchid roots stretch naturally and try not to rub against the inner wall of the pot.
(3) Fill the soil. When planting, hold the leaves with one hand and add nutrient soil with the other hand. Hold the base of the orchid plant and lift it up slightly to stretch the roots, and shake the orchid pot at the same time. Let the culture soil penetrate deep into the root zone; continue to add soil and shake the orchid pot to adjust the position and height of the orchid. Press along the edge of the pot with your hands, but be careful not to overload it to damage the roots. Continue to add soil and squeeze until the soil on the surface of the pot is 2-3 cm higher than the mouth of the pot, slightly shaped like a steamed bun. The culture soil should cover all the orchid roots and cover the base
of the pseudobulb. The depth of the soil filling is traditionally believed to be shallow for spring orchids and deep for Hui orchids, but generally it should not cover the leaf base on the pseudobulb. When new orchids grow in the mountains, the plants leave obvious marks above and below the soil surface, which can be used as a reference.
(4) Paving. After planting, you can spread a layer of small stones or moss on the surface of the potting soil. It is best to use high-quality moss from the forest. It is not only beautiful, but also can regulate moisture, and can protect the leaf surface from being contaminated by mud and water, and the new buds will not be infected by bacteria in the soil and rot. In addition, it can slow down the erosion of the potting soil by rainwater and keep the potting soil loose.
(5) Watering. After planting, water the plant for the first time. The soil in the pot must be soaked. The water droplets should be small and the force should not be too strong. If the plant is placed in a basin of water, do not soak it for too long. Once the soil is soaked, take the pot out immediately and move it to a shaded place for maintenance.
Watering:
Ideal watering time:
There is no fixed time for watering orchids. However, due to various external factors, if the orchid is not watered within a certain period of time, it will not only be easy to damage the plant, but also its physiological function will be greatly changed. Regardless of whether the soil is soft or hard, the watering time is roughly as follows:
1. On sunny days, or when the temperature in the shed is above 23 degrees Celsius, it is best to water between 7 and 9 pm. The higher the temperature, the later the watering. The general practice is:
(1) When the temperature is between 23 and 24 degrees Celsius, water it around 7 pm.
(2) When the temperature is between 25 and 26 degrees Celsius, water it around 8 pm.
(3) When the temperature is above 28 degrees Celsius, watering should be done after 9 pm.
2. On cloudy days, or when the temperature in the shed is between 19 and 22 degrees Celsius, it is best to water between 5 and 6 pm. However, in cloudy weather, the temperature is sometimes very high, so you need to be careful. The general practice is:
(1) When the temperature is between 19 and 20 degrees Celsius, water around 5 pm.
(2) When the temperature is between 21 and 22 degrees Celsius, water around 6 pm.
(3) On rainy, cloudy or cold days, or when the temperature in the shed is above 23 degrees Celsius, it is best to water the plants between 7 and 9 p.m., that is, the higher the temperature, the later the watering should be. The general practice is: On cold days, or when the temperature in the shed is below 18 degrees Celsius, it is best to water the plants between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. However, in rainy and cloudy weather, when the temperature is sometimes above 25 degrees Celsius, it is important to pay attention, that is, the lower the temperature
, the earlier the watering should be done. The general practice is: (1) When the temperature is between 17 and 19 degrees Celsius, water the plants
around 3 p.m. (2
) When the temperature is between 15 and 17 degrees Celsius, water the plants around 2 p.m. (3) When
the temperature is between 12 and 15 degrees Celsius, water the plants around 1 p.m. (4) When the temperature is between 10 and 12 degrees Celsius, water the plants at 12 noon.
(5) When the temperature is below 9 degrees Celsius, water the plants around 11 a.m.
But it should be noted that if the sunlight is strong and the temperature is low, you can water it without worry, because the quality of orchid roots is related to temperature and sunlight.
(V) Water quality: As long as it is drinkable water for humans, tap water or well water is fine.
(6) Learn from nature: When orchids need water and when they don’t need water depends mainly on whether the orchids have sprouted and are in the growing season. The rainy season is about a month long and the plants absorb a lot of water, so they grow quickly. In summer and winter, they are too hot and too cold, which are not suitable for orchids to grow. They are in a dormant period. Therefore, if the orchid pot is dry, you need to water it. In summer, due to the hot climate, water evaporates quickly, so you need to water it when it is dry. Otherwise, the orchid will die of dehydration. In winter, the temperature is low and if there is no sunlight or wind, the orchid will not be affected even if it is not watered for a month. Therefore, if you water the orchid frequently in low temperatures and without sunlight, the orchids will easily rot. In autumn, the orchids are forming the root and preparing to bloom. Therefore, you need to adopt a slightly dry watering method, that is, wait for the orchid pot to dry for one or two days before watering it. Therefore, the control of watering depends mainly on whether the orchid is in the growing period, the forming and flowering period, or the dormant period to determine the dryness and humidity of the orchid pot. Therefore, you need to learn from nature and look at the agricultural calendar to decide how to water the orchid. (If the material in the pot is too fine, do not let it get wet in the rain, otherwise the roots will rot)
(VII) Precautions:
1. In the hot and muggy summer, do not water during the day. If you encounter a shower that hits the orchid, wait until the rain stops, then water it again to fully wet the orchid, so as to avoid the sun coming out again. In a semi-wet state, the orchid is easily steamed and injured by the high temperature.
2. In the hot and strong light conditions during the day in summer, avoid fertilizing and spraying. If you want to fertilize and spray, you can do it half an hour after watering at 10 pm to avoid fertilizer and pesticide damage. (During the daytime, the water evaporates quickly, causing the concentration of fertilizer and pesticide to increase rapidly, and the leaves and roots cannot bear it, which will produce adverse side effects). 3.
In the cold winter, do not water when there is no sunlight below 15°. Just spray the leaves. If the roots are too wet and the temperature is below 8°, they are prone to frostbite and rot.
4. In the winter, the temperature is low, but the sunlight is strong, you can still water it, because photosynthesis is good and the growth of orchid roots is also good.
5. Fertilize and spray medicine half an hour after watering (avoid strong light and high temperature) to prevent fertilizer and medicine damage.
Leaf care
In addition to appreciating the fragrance and beauty of potted orchids, we can often only appreciate its leaves. Most of its leaves are narrow and half-drooping, fluttering in the breeze, graceful and poetic. The ancients said: "Cherish leaves like jade rings."
1. Orchid leaves have high ornamental value. The shape and posture of orchid leaves are rich in changes, soft but not weak, upright but not rigid, beautiful and moving. Orchid flowers are lovely, but good flowers are rare, and flowers fall helplessly, while orchid leaves are evergreen all year round, giving people unlimited enjoyment. The elegance of orchids is revealed in both flowers and leaves. Among many ornamental plants, orchid leaves have a particularly high ornamental value.
2. Lush leaves are the prerequisite for good flowers. From the perspective of plant physiology, leaves are organs that produce nutrients. If you want more and better orchids, you must first make the leaves healthy and lush. If the leaves are broken and the flowers are plentiful, it is just a sign of rapid decay.
3. The leaves of orchids are the foil of orchids. Although orchids are in bloom, but the leaves are broken and sick, it is like a beautiful woman in ragged clothes, which is lamentable.
If the orchids are lush and the leaves are healthy, they complement each other and bring out the best in each other. To keep the leaves intact, first of all, we must control the humidity of the air and maintain good ventilation; strengthen the prevention and control of diseases and pests to protect the orchid leaves from insect bites and diseases, and keep the leaves intact. Secondly, preserve the tip of the leaf, the tip of the orchid leaf, and try to preserve it as much as possible, and don't cut it off easily. Once the tip of the leaf is lost, the orchid leaf becomes a sword without a blade and looks dull. The key to preserving the tip of the leaf is to carefully maintain and manage it on a daily basis to ensure the water and nutrients needed by the orchid, and to prevent the tip from burning.
Common Problems Diagnosis
A. Common problems of most orchids
a. Leaves
1. The leaves are dark green and healthy in appearance, but the plant does not bloom.
It may be due to insufficient light. Check the light level and increase the light.
2. The leaves are dull and finally wither .
If the plant does not absorb enough water, check the root system. If the root system is lush and healthy and strong, it means that the plant is not getting enough water. If the root system is not healthy, repot it as soon as possible.
3. The leaves gradually turn yellow.
Too much light or insufficient nitrogen fertilizer.
4. Clear water-like spots appear on the leaves.
Usually bacterial infection, repot and treat with fungicide.
5. The upper leaves or leaves under the sun are bent and white.
Sunburn, too much light.
6. New leaves are sunken
. Tissue disintegration caused by too low water temperature or too low air temperature.
7. The leaf tips turn black and brown, and the roots wilt.
Too much fertilizer causes salt damage. Check the fertilizer formula and rinse at least once a month. When the plant is too dry, water it instead of fertilizer.
8. The leaves turn yellow, brown and die.
Fungal damage, too much water, too wet and disintegrated medium, too high relative humidity, and too low temperature. The treatment method is to use fungicides, cut off dead or brown leaves, and replant. The roots should be completely dry before watering.
9. Black stripes appear on the leaves
. Caused by viruses.
b. New leaves
1. Grow fast but soften.
Too much nitrogen fertilizer.
2. Small new leaf area, growth is hindered, or unable to grow upward.
Plants are stressed: weak roots, insufficient light, too high temperature, nitrogen deficiency, etc.
c. Flower buds, flowers and pedicels
1. Flower buds turn yellow and then fall off.
Too high temperature, too high or too low light, too low relative humidity, inappropriate water supply, lack of trace elements, weak roots, etc.
2. Flower buds cannot fully open .
Genetic characteristics, too low temperature, too low relative humidity, thrips damage.
3. Flowers are too small and the color is not as bright as before.
Insufficient light or too high temperature.
4. Flowers wilt quickly.
Too high or too low temperature, exposure to direct sunlight, too low relative humidity, insufficient fertilizer or trace elements, inappropriate water supply, poor root development.
5. Too few flowers.
Weak plants, too low light, lack of phosphorus fertilizer (P).
6. Brown spots or mosaic shapes appear on flowers
. Caused by viruses.
7. Poor arrangement of flowers
Change the angle of the flowerpot during the stemming stage.
d. Roots
1. Roots turn black or brown
The root system is damaged and damaged by root rot fungi. The damaged roots should be removed.
2. The root protuberances have bite marks or lose the root protuberances
Being bitten by insects.
3. The root protuberances die
Accumulation of salts, from poor water quality, too much fertilizer, insufficient rinsing, etc.
4. Root deformation
Lack of chlorine
5. Poor root development
Insufficient trace elements
B. Phalaenopsis cultivation problems
a. Leaves
1. The new leaves are smaller than the original old leaves
The plant is under stress, including poor root development, insufficient light, and high temperature. The cultivation environment should be checked and the pot should be changed if necessary.
2. Wrinkles on the leaves
Insufficient water.
3. The leaves are weak, gradually bend and wrinkle
The plant does not absorb enough water, which may be due to poor root system or insufficient water supply.
4. Dark red leaves
Usually appear on the back of the leaves, due to too much light, insufficient N fertilizer or insufficient P fertilizer.
5. New leaves turn red
Fungal damage.
6. Bottom leaves turn dark red or lose color
Usually occurs when repotting, especially when relative humidity is too high or light is too strong.
7. New leaves do not grow or growth is restricted
N or P deficiency.
8. Leaf fall
Old leaves age when new leaves are formed, or other stresses, including: poor temperature, humidity, insufficient water supply, lack of P fertilizer or fungal damage.
b. Flower buds, pedicels, flowers
1. Pedicels bend and lose color
Caused by viruses.
2. Pedicels are wavy
Genetic characteristics of a few varieties, or insufficient light.
3. Pedicels are too
short Too much light.
4. The top of the pedicel turns brown
Water temperature is too low and tissues disintegrate.
5. Pedicels grow leaves
Due to high temperature, insufficient light, medium disintegration, and poor plant health.
6. Pedicels are thin
P deficiency, too little light.
7. Flowers are rotten or have water spots
Water droplets on the petals cause fungi, and the air humidity or moisture is too high.
C. Cattleya Orchid (Cattleya) Cultivation Problems
a. Leaves
1. Turns brown after growth and then dies.
It may be due to fungal damage, too much water, medium collapse, high humidity and low temperature environment.
2. New leaves do not grow or growth is blocked.
Insufficient N fertilizer or P fertilizer, growth buds are injured or rot.
b. Sheaths, buds and flowers
1. Sheaths dry up
. The plant blooms before it matures. Some varieties have the characteristics of this, and they bloom after the sheaths dry up.
2. Sheaths or buds turn reddish brown or waterlogged.
Water drops stop on sheaths or buds and cause corruption.
D. Tiger Orchid (Cymbidium) Cultivation Problems
a. New leaves
1. The growth area of new leaves is smaller than that of old leaves, growth is blocked, and leaves cannot grow upward. The plant is stressed, the root system is weak, the amount of light is insufficient, the temperature is too high, and the N fertilizer is insufficient.
2. Leaves turn yellow and die
. Insufficient water.
3. Leaves grow and turn reddish brown, and then die.
Fungal influence, too much water, medium collapse, and high humidity.
b. Sheath, bud, flower
1. Sheath or bud turns reddish brown or water-stained
Water droplets remain on the sheath, causing corruption.
2. Buds dry up or fall off
Daytime or nighttime temperature is too high: Daytime temperature should not exceed 18.3℃ during the bud development stage, and nighttime temperature should be maintained at 10-15.6℃.
3. Flowers turn yellow and fall off
Temperature is too high, light is too strong or insufficient, air is too dry, water supply is poor, trace elements are insufficient or too much.
E. Cultivation problems of Oncidium
a. Leaves
1. New leaves are smaller than the original old leaves
Plants are under stress, including poor root development, insufficient light, high temperature, etc. The cultivation environment should be checked and pots should be changed if necessary.
2. Leaves turn yellow, turn brown and die
Fungal infection, excessive water, medium collapse, high humidity and low temperature.
3. New leaves do not grow or growth is blocked
N fertilizer or P fertilizer is insufficient, and the growing apical buds are damaged or rotten.
b. Flower stems, buds, and flowers
1. Flower stems dry up and stop growing .
This may be caused by insect damage, insufficient water absorption by the plant, or an unsuitable temperature range.
2. Flower stems turn reddish brown and water-soaked . Water stays in the flower stems, causing them to rot. F. Slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum, Cyperus) a. New leaves 1. New leaves are smaller than the old leaves . The plant is under stress, including poor root development, insufficient light, and high temperatures. The cultivation environment should be checked and pots should be changed if necessary. 2. The plant stem axis is too high and the light is insufficient. 3. The leaf tips are reddish brown or have spots . This is due to insufficient water or root rot. 4. Leaves turn yellow, then brown and die. This may be caused by fungi, excessive water, rotten media, high humidity, and low temperatures. 5. Leaves have water spots and turn reddish brown, black, or gray, sometimes with yellow edges. This is usually caused by bacterial infection. Apply fungicides and keep them dry for several weeks. 6. White spots or irregular dark markings are caused by bacterial infection. 7. New leaves do not grow or stop growing due to insufficient N fertilizer or P fertilizer, and the growth buds are injured or rotten.
of orchid cultivation essentials :
Soak the orchid roots in water first.
Carefully pull out the orchid plants.
Remove the old planting materials.
Wash the whole plant
. Prune the roots or cut the leaves
. If there are many plants , divide them
. Apply fungicide.
Dry in the shade before planting. Prevent bacteria from
the wound first. Disinfect
the old pot
. Repot and divide:
The pot should not be too
large. Do not plant the orchid shallowly.
Place the new buds in the
center. The roots should be spread out. The plant
body should be fixed . The planting materials should
be slightly pressed.
Do not water for several days .
Avoid strong light.
Plant pot:
Prepare the materials.
Put the ears
in the flower pot and put the mat
to cover the mat
. The roots are spread out.
Fill the surrounding area with snake wood chips. The plant
body should be fixed.
Nameplates should be used for record.
To promote orchid flowering, pay attention to the following aspects:
1. Temperature. To promote orchid flowering, the temperature difference between day and night should be about ten degrees Celsius, that is, it grows best under the temperature conditions of 18 to 21 degrees Celsius during the day and 7 to 10 degrees Celsius at night, and it will bloom more. If the temperature is high at night, the leaves of the orchid will be soft and the flower buds will fall off. Too low temperature will cause blind buds and spots on the leaves. Flowers will be damaged by low temperatures during flowering, and brown spots will appear on the flowers.
2. Watering. The amount of watering is also the main condition for orchids to bloom. Water should be controlled. Too much water will make orchids grow too long and it is difficult to produce flower buds. Appropriate water is one of the ways to promote flowering. However, if there is a lack of water, the buds will be clamped.
3. Light. Light is the main factor that promotes orchids to breed flower buds. The intensity of light varies greatly depending on the type of orchid. Generally, when the flower buds are forming, if the orchid is placed under a fairly bright light, the red, dark red, and yellow colors will deepen when it blooms. For orchids with green or white flowers, the light intensity should be reduced as soon as the flower buds first appear to ensure that the color of the flowers is more elegant, and more light should be given again after the flowers have bloomed. Generally, orchids need 2 to 3 hours of light. If the leaves are soft and moderately green, it means that the light is normal. If the leaves are dark green and soft, it means that more light is needed, and if the leaves are light yellow, it means that less light is needed.
Due to the different types of orchids, different climatic conditions in their origins, and different ecological habits, their cultivation and management methods are also different. In order to give orchid lovers an overall concept of how to grow orchids well, this article introduces the basic principles of orchid cultivation and management technology and the experience of predecessors and us in practice.
Orchid planting not only refers to the "replanting" of domestic cultivated varieties (i.e., mature grass), but also includes the "new planting" of wild orchids (raw grass). In addition, in addition to replanting for the purpose of division propagation, replanting is also required in special circumstances, such as merging, adding fertilizer, removing insects and treating diseases. In addition, in terms of the way of orchid planting, there are also potted planting, ground planting, epiphytic planting, basket planting, stump wrapping, bonsai and other types selected according to factors such as orchid type, cultivation environment and cultivation purpose. It can be seen that the concept of orchid planting has far exceeded the meaning of "division", "replanting" and "dividing pots".
Preparation of culture soil
Planting orchids requires special culture soil, also known as "orchid mud". The culture soil for orchids should be loose and breathable, with good ventilation, appropriate amount of fertilizer, and no hidden diseases and insect pests. The composition of culture soil is made of one or several basic components (matrix). These basic components include soil, fertilizer, and other materials, and there are many types. Some components seem to have nothing to do with "soil", but they are all matrices that orchids rely on to stabilize the plants and grow and develop.
(1) The formula of culture soil. Orchids in East China generally like to use orchid mud from Shaoxing, Yuyao and other places. In recent years, Emei "Hewang" brand fairy soil has also been popular, but these culture soils are limited in quantity and expensive, and can only be used for repotting. Large-scale planting requires hundreds or thousands of tons of culture soil, so we can only use local materials. After years of practice and repeated screening, we have determined that the best formula is: four parts of yellow sand, four parts of sawdust, and two parts of river sand; if it is yellow loam, then one part of river sand, one part of sawdust, and one part of yellow loam. All are fully mixed. The pH value of the prepared culture soil should be between 6.5 and 6.8. It should be loose and breathable, with good water retention and air permeability, and comprehensive nutrition. River sand and sawdust serve as water conduction and ventilation. Sawdust is decomposed by bacteria and can slowly release nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc. Yellow loam also contains a variety of trace elements. After years of observation, this formula is very suitable for orchid growth. It is especially suitable as a substrate for the domestication and cultivation of wild orchids. It is suitable for spring orchids and cymbidium orchids, and is also ideal for Jianlan and Hanlan. Both the flowering rate and stress resistance are significantly increased.
(2) Bamboo root mud. It refers to the soil at the roots of bamboo clumps that have been planted for many years. Due to the growth of bamboo whips and bamboo roots and the decay of bamboo leaves and bamboo shoots, this soil becomes a loose structure, well-drained, and fertile but not overly fertile soil suitable for orchid growth. The quality of bamboo root mud depends on three factors: first, the original soil quality, which is the predecessor and foundation of bamboo root mud, and sandy loam is the best; second, the age of bamboo clumps. The longer the bamboo clumps are planted, the more effective the bamboo roots, leaves and whips are; third, the distance from the bamboo stump. The closer the soil is to the bamboo stump, the better.
(3) Sweet potato bran soil. Sweet potato bran is made by harvesting, drying and crushing the plants of green manure (Astragalus sinensis). Mix sweet potato bran with bamboo root mud or general sandy loam, pile it up and rot it to make sweet potato bran soil. The preparation method is: choose a place that is sheltered from rain, spread a layer of sweet potato bran on a layer of soil, water it with pig manure water, and pile it up layer by layer; after the pile is completed, sprinkle water on the surface to moisten it, and then apply thin mud to seal it. It can be used after six months of pile fermentation. When using, add other culture soils in proportion.
(4) Leaf humus soil. Use dead leaves or grass, tall stalks to pile up and water or fertilize, apply thin mud to seal, and then compost and sieve. It is best to use grass that has not yet produced seeds, and fully compost it to kill pests and weed seeds, otherwise there will be a lot of weeds in the orchid pot in the future.
(5) Mountain mud. This is the soil in the mountains where wild orchids originally grew. It is the dead branches and fallen leaves that have been piled up and rotted for many years and mixed with soil. Naturally formed leaf humus contains rich humus, is loose and breathable, and is very suitable for the growth of orchids. If transportation is convenient, it is relatively simple and economical to dig a large amount of mountain mud for planting orchids. It is better to use it for domesticating grass. The humus soil under broad-leaved forests, especially the leaf humus soil under chestnut trees, is an ideal soil for orchids.
(6) Pond mud. In conjunction with the winter repair of ponds and fish ponds, dig out mud from them, dry it, and then break it into fine particles. It can be used to grow all flowers, including orchids.
(7) Field soil. That is, choose loose topsoil in the field, mix it with a little sandy soil or rice husk ash, and then add some decomposed compost or fermented bean cake, rapeseed cake and other organic fertilizers to improve the soil structure and enhance the fertilizer effect. After turning the pile several times and mixing it evenly, sieve it. This kind of soil is nearly neutral and not as good as humus soil. Therefore, it is only used reluctantly when there is no suitable humus soil or mountain sandy loam. It is mostly used to cultivate coarse orchids.
(8) Cow dung soil. Break the fermented dry cow dung into powder and mix it into sandy soil or topsoil of field soil in a ratio of 1:3. It is best to choose cow dung that is fed dry feed in winter, because after the dry grass is regurgitated by the cow's stomach, although the fiber is fine, it is still elastic and contains certain nutrients. This kind of cow dung soil is soft and fertile, which is very suitable for the roots of orchids. People in the orchid art circle in Taiwan often use this kind of cow dung soil as a filling material for cultivating terrestrial orchids, and the effect is very good.
In foreign countries, when cultivating orchids, humus or leaf humus is generally used with 5 parts of sand or 1 part of sand; or 3 parts of peat soil is used with 1 part of river sand and crushed cow dung, mixed thoroughly before use. The cultivation medium of epiphytic orchids is mainly moss and ferns, with a small amount of leaves, small pieces of charcoal and crushed dry cow dung.
Before planting orchids in soil, the soil should be exposed to the sun for disinfection and sterilization. In summer, spread the soil and expose it to the sun for more than 3 days to kill the germs and eggs in it.
The pH value of the culture soil should be measured and adjusted before use. For over-acidic soil, lime can be used to adjust it. For over-alkaline soil, superphosphate, ferrous sulfate, etc. can be mixed into the soil. In short, it is better to control the soil pH value to be neutral and slightly acidic (i.e. pH 5.5-7). It is a better way to use organic fertilizers, such as grass and leaves to make fertilizers and add them to the soil to change the soil pH.
In addition, before planting orchids, the nutrient soil should be sieved and graded to separate large and small particles. When planting orchids, place large grains at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. At the same time, the degree of dryness and wetness of the soil should also be adjusted. It should not be too wet or too dry. It is best to squeeze the soil ball in your hand, and the soil can form a ball; loosen your hand and shake it off, and the soil will be scattered into particles. This is the right dryness and wetness.
Perlite is a good substrate for soilless orchid cultivation. Planting orchids with perlite can make the orchid root system develop and grow vigorously, and rarely rot. Perlite is light and soft, free of pests and diseases, with moderate pH, and there is no resistance to the growth and extension of orchid roots. The roots are mostly upright and extended, white and strong, and the orchid leaves are lush and green, and the flowers are good. Perlite has strong water filtration, and there is no water accumulation in the flower pot with bottom holes. Because of its slow water dispersion, even if you forget to water it when it is time to water it, it will not be too dry. After more than two years of comparative practice, the author believes that perlite is a good substrate for soilless orchid cultivation.
Using perlite as a soilless cultivation substrate for orchid cultivation has the following advantages:
1. 1. No impurities and no bacteria, not prone to diseases and insect pests.
2. Watering is done immediately, without the problem of incomplete watering or half-watering.
3. Lightweight, reducing labor and reducing the bearing capacity of the balcony.
However, perlite also has its disadvantages:
1. Perlite itself does not have any nutrients, and regular watering with nutrient solution and foliar fertilizer are required to meet the needs of orchid seedling growth.
2. Green algae are easy to appear on the surface of perlite under sunlight. In order to prevent the growth of green algae, a layer of bean-sized pebbles can be covered on the surface. This kind of stone is used as the bottom of the fish tank and can be bought in stores selling ornamental fish. It is relatively smooth and has no sharp edges and corners. It will not hurt the normal growth of leaf buds and flower buds, and it can also make the surface of the pot beautiful.
Perlite is light and is easily washed away by air flow or water when spraying or watering orchids. With the pressure of pebbles, this disadvantage will not occur. Covering the surface of the pot with a layer of pebbles is really killing two birds with one stone.
There are no special requirements for maintenance and management. It is the same as general orchid cultivation. It is just necessary to pay attention to fertilization during the growing season of orchids. Do not apply farmyard manure (organic fertilizer). Organic fertilizer generally has incomplete elements, that is, there are more macroelements and less trace elements. It is necessary to apply full-element fertilizers to prevent orchids from having nutrient deficiency and to enable them to grow in a balanced manner. The author has always practiced never to water with clear water (no fertilizer water), but to add an appropriate amount of nutrient solution or fertilizer to the water.
(Solid fertilizers must be fully dissolved before watering). When using fertilizers or nutrient solutions, use them according to the manufacturer's product instructions. Do not exceed the amount to prevent fertilizer damage. Foliar fertilizers must be applied once a week during the growing season of orchids. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be applied more heavily during the reproductive growth period, which is very beneficial for flowering. In winter, orchids are in a semi-dormant stage. From November and December to January of the following year, only foliar fertilizers can meet their needs.
Perlite has good air permeability and moderate water content. The porosity of perlite is 93%, which is easy to drain and easy to breathe. For orchids that have strict requirements on water content, it is ideal to choose perlite. Perlite itself contains trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, manganese, chromium, copper, boron, and molybdenum, but most of them are not absorbed and utilized by orchids and other plants. This is why it is necessary to fertilize on time when using perlite to grow orchids.
When buying perlite, it is best to choose large particles, which are more conducive to air permeability. When potting, it is better to use semi-dry ones. When semi-dry, perlite is in a loose granular state, which is conducive to filling the roots and there will be no voids in the pot. When perlite is wet, it is easy to adhere to blocks and is inconvenient to pot.
Perlite dust is highly irritating to the throat. Before use, it must be sprayed with water to prevent dust from flying. In addition, perlite contains fluorine, which is harmful to plants. It must be rinsed with water twice before use. In cities where it is convenient to buy perlite, perlite can be used alone. In order to save perlite when it is inconvenient, perlite and slag can be used in a ratio of 1:1. It is best to sieve out slag of the size of mung beans, but honeycomb coal slag cannot be used.
After 2 years of use, inorganic salts may adhere to perlite. In this case, you can soak it in soft water (after boiling water is cooled) for 2 days and then take it out and reuse it. Perlite can also be used to cultivate flowers such as Clivia and azalea. Because of its good air permeability, it is also a good medium for cutting seedlings.
Planting
1,
whether it is replanting or new planting, the choice of timing has a great impact on the survival, growth and development of orchids. Therefore, it is very important. Generally, the more suitable time is the dormant period of orchids, that is, March-April, before the new buds are unearthed; in terms of season, it is between the spring equinox and Qingming. If the new buds are unearthed, it is very inconvenient to operate, and the new buds will be broken or injured if you are not careful. When the dormant period of orchids is about to end, the new buds and new roots are about to grow but have not grown yet. This is the best time for planting. Soon after planting, the roots can be taken out and sprouts can be restored to normal growth. If the orchid is planted too early, it will not be easy for it to "resurrect" after planting. If it encounters low temperature, cold wave, late frost, and spring thunder, it will often cause frostbite. In the winter, the orchid room in the Yangtze River Basin is rarely heated. The winter is very cold, so it is not recommended to divide the plants in severe winter.
In order to facilitate the operation of division, the soil can be properly dried before division. Make the roots white, produce inconspicuous shrinkage, and make the originally brittle and easily broken fleshy roots become soft, so that the roots will not be broken too much during division and potting.
For large-scale orchid nurseries, the planting workload is large and the time spent before and after is long. Precious varieties should be arranged to be planted at the best time. Ordinary varieties can be postponed or advanced as appropriate.
2. Orchids propagated by orchid seedlings
should be selected with good growth and no diseases or insects. After 2-3 years of planting, orchids need to be repotted or repotted, and division should be combined with propagation at this time. When repotting, hold the bottom of the flower pot with your left palm, and carefully extend your right fingers into the orchid seedlings and leaves to block the pot soil. Then turn the orchid pot upside down, tilt the pot body sideways to face you, and let the lower edge of the pot mouth touch the ground. At this time, lift the pot slightly upward with both hands at the same time, so that the lower edge of the pot gently hits the ground to loosen the pot soil, turn the pot body, change the contact point of the lower edge of the pot mouth hitting the ground, and let the pot soil gradually loosen evenly and leave the flower pot. Hold the orchid plant with your right hand and remove the flower
pot with your left hand. For the larger plants that have been selected and cleaned. Find the natural gap between the two pseudobulbs that is wide and easy to loosen when shaken by hand, cut the two pseudobulbs apart, which the predecessors called "opening the road". Then use both hands to control the base of the two clusters, shake and pull along the "road" to separate them into two clusters.
Prune the separated orchid clusters appropriately, and then dry the orchids in a cool and ventilated place. When the orchid roots are soft and easy to bend, they can be planted. Generally, it only takes half a day to dry the orchids when the weather is clear. Of course, they should not be dried too dry.
3. The orchid clumps separated by the planting procedure
should not be too scattered. Each clump should have at least 3-5 seedlings. It is best to keep one-year-old plants, two-year-old plants and three-year-old plants in the same clump.
(1) Pot pad. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a tile, and then gradually fill it with bricks, tiles or shells. The large gaps should be filled with mud or pebbles, which is generally about 1/2-1/3 of the height of the pot. The remaining net height is about 10-15 cm, which is reserved for the culture soil layer. The specific height should be determined according to the type of orchid, the length of the orchid roots and the height of the pot. The bedding should not be filled too densely or too solidly, and a little pore should be left. Practice has shown that some new roots can grow well in the pores of the bedding layer.
(2) Planting. On the bedding layer, first add 2-3 cm of culture soil, slightly compact it with your hands, and then place the orchid upright on it. Depending on the size of the plant and the flowerpot, you can plant several single plants, 2, 3 or more clumps in one pot. 3 clumps should be planted in a tripod shape. 4 clumps can be planted in a square shape, and 5 clumps should be arranged in a plum blossom shape. The orchid roots should stretch naturally and the leaves should spread out in all directions. Slowly place the orchid roots into the pot so that the roots stretch naturally and try not to rub against the inner wall of the pot.
(3) Fill the soil. When planting, hold the leaves with one hand and add nutrient soil with the other hand. Hold the base of the orchid and lift it up slightly to stretch the roots, and shake the orchid pot at the same time. Let the culture soil penetrate into the root zone; continue to add soil and shake the orchid pot to adjust the position and height of the orchid. Press along the edge of the pot with your hands, but be careful not to overdo it to damage the roots. Continue to add soil and squeeze until the soil on the surface of the pot is 2-3 cm higher than the pot mouth and slightly shaped like a steamed bun. The culture soil should cover all the orchid roots and cover the base of the pseudobulb.
The depth of the soil is traditionally believed to be shallow for spring orchids and deep for hyacinth orchids, but generally the depth should not cover the leaf base on the pseudobulb. When new orchids grow in the wild, they leave obvious marks on the soil surface, which can be used as a reference.
(4) Paving. After planting, you can spread a layer of small stones or moss on the surface of the potting soil. It is best to use high-quality moss from the forest. It is not only beautiful, but also can regulate moisture, protect the leaves from being contaminated by mud and water, and prevent the new buds from being infected by bacteria in the soil and rotting. In addition, it can slow down the erosion of the potting soil by rainwater and keep the potting soil loose.
(5) Watering. After planting, water the first time. The potting soil must be soaked. The water drops should be small and the impact should not be too strong. If placed in a basin of water, do not soak it for too long. Once the potting soil is soaked, move the orchid pot out immediately and move it to a shaded place for maintenance.
4. Maintenance and management after planting
It is important to master the orchid planting skills, but it is more difficult to manage and maintain orchids. Therefore, there is a saying that "three parts planting and seven parts maintenance". The maintenance of orchids requires understanding of the environment, accumulating maintenance experience, and patience and carefulness. The most important thing is to master the growth and development rules of orchids, so that you can definitely grow orchids well.
1. Cherish the leaves. The leaves of
orchids are soft but not weak, and upright but not stiff. Orchids are charming and lovely, but good flowers are rare, and there is nothing you can do when the flowers fall; while orchid leaves are evergreen all year round, always alive, giving people a year-round enjoyment. The elegance of orchids is reflected in both flowers and leaves. And lush leaves are the prerequisite for good flowers. Healthy leaves produce rich nutrients themselves, and there are many beautiful flowers. If the leaves are broken and there are many flowers, it is just a sign of rapid decline.
The shapes of leaf tips of different types of orchids are different. Some are gradually pointed, some are blunt and round, some are concave, and some are upturned. In terms of leaf color, some orchid varieties have "golden tips" or "silver tips" (that is, the tip of the leaf is yellow or white), which makes them precious and rare. This adds another layer of interest in leaf appreciating.
During maintenance, you should pay attention to protecting the orchid leaves. Be gentle and careful when operating, do not bump the orchid leaves, and keep their natural posture. Carefully clean the contaminated leaves, and do not accumulate water in the center of the leaf bundle. Cut off the old and diseased leaves in time.
2.
After the flower buds emerge from the soil, if there are too many, the mother's nutrients will be consumed excessively, which will hinder the formation and vigorous growth of leaf buds. The excess thin flower buds should be removed as soon as possible, and only one flower bud should be left for each orchid seedling. Each pot should retain 3-5 flower buds.
If the flowers bloom for too long and consume nutrients, it will hinder the budding and leaf growth and flowering in the next year. The flowers of spring orchids bloom for about half a month, and the flower stalks should be cut off in time after they wither.
3. Temperature
Most areas are in temperate and subtropical zones, while orchids are generally produced in places with mild and humid climates, with higher annual average temperatures and longer frost-free periods. Orchids are rarely planted in the northeast and northwest, mainly due to temperature constraints.
The orchids in the northernmost distribution are spring orchids and Huilan. There is frost or short-term snow in their distribution lines in winter, and the temperature is higher in summer. However, since orchids mostly grow in mixed forests of broad-leaved and coniferous forests or in bamboo forests, the trees not only block the scorching sun in summer, but also resist the cold wind in winter; even if the land is covered with snow, it will not have much impact on orchids, because the snow actually plays a role in protecting orchids overwintering, and the ground temperature under the snow is generally not lower than 0℃. Our introduction and domestication of Jianlan and Hanlan have moved them 600-1000 kilometers northward from their place of origin, and they are planted on a large scale. It can be seen that the survival ability and adaptability of orchids are still relatively strong.
In most areas of Northeast, Northwest and North China, the winter is too cold and it is not suitable for orchid cultivation outdoors. From mid-to-late October to late April of the following year, it takes half a year. Orchids need to be moved indoors or in greenhouses for cultivation. In the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, orchids must also be cultivated indoors or heated in greenhouses in winter.
Orchids' temperature requirements: The temperature for orchid seeds to germinate is 21℃-25℃ during the day and 15℃-18℃ at night. The temperature required for the growth of terrestrial orchids is 20℃-22℃ during the day and 13℃-0℃ at night. During the dormant period of orchids in winter, the temperature can be lowered. For example, the minimum temperature requirement for spring orchids and Huilan in winter is 4℃-6℃ at night, and it can also be reduced to 0℃. It is also okay for the leaves of plants to drop to minus 2℃-3℃ under dry conditions. The flowers of orchids develop from flower buds, and the differentiation of flower buds is closely related to temperature and light. Many studies on the differentiation of orchid flower buds have been done by predecessors, and the conclusion is that the low temperature of 12℃-13℃ is enough to differentiate flower buds, and it is not very related to the length of sunshine. However, the more light the orchid is exposed to, the more significant the effect of low temperature on the formation of flower buds. Therefore, it is better to cultivate orchids outdoors from late spring to autumn than to grow and develop indoors.
There are three main purposes of regulating temperature, namely: winter cold protection, summer heat protection and changing flowering period.
The flowering period of orchids is obviously affected by temperature. Under normal conditions, the appropriate increase in temperature can make the flowers bloom earlier.
In summer, it is advisable to spray or spray clean water in the air, on the ground, on the flowerbed and on the orchid leaves. Because water absorbs part of the heat when evaporating, it can play a role in cooling down and preventing heatstroke; open the doors and windows in the orchid room to avoid heat accumulation.
In addition to air temperature, the temperature regulation should also pay attention to the soil temperature. The orchid roots grow in the soil, and the temperature of the pot soil has a direct impact on its physiological functions. Under normal conditions, the soil temperature is positively correlated with the air temperature. It is also necessary to pay attention to the water temperature and soil temperature when watering, and it should not be too different.
There is also a question worth discussing, that is, the relationship between artificial protection and the adaptability of orchids themselves. Like all plants, orchids also have their adaptability to the external environment. They are not born delicate. Therefore, when orchid growers protect orchids from heat and cold, their measures should be appropriate. Covering too densely and for too long will inevitably weaken their resistance to adversity. Our orchid nursery selects orchids of Hanlan and Jianlan introduced and domesticated from 600-1000 kilometers away in the south. In addition to protection, we also gradually let them enhance their resistance to adversity and gradually adapt to the new environment.
Cultivation
1. The original environment of productive ground-grown
orchids is to grow between mountains and valleys, with high and cool terrain and shade from trees, forming a moist microclimate. The temperature difference is small and the air is clean. When introducing and domesticating, we should first simulate their wild environment so that they can be planted with luxuriant flowers and leaves. At present, with the development of industry and urban modernization, greening work cannot keep up with the pollution from factories and transportation. Therefore, orchids cultivated in cities are not as strong as those grown in suburbs. For this reason, the orchid nursery we built is located in the southern suburbs of Hefei, the capital of Anhui Province, on the south side of the Jianghuai watershed. The annual average temperature is 16℃, the annual rainfall is 1008 mm, and the frost-free period is 250 days. It is different from the original cattle environment of wild orchids, and is far different from the meteorological factors of the native places of Hanlan and Jianlan. Therefore, we have made careful design and practical arrangements for the adjustment of environmental factors in the domestication and planting of orchids. The orchid nursery covers an area of about 15,000 square meters and is rectangular. There is a rectangular pond in the nursery to store rainwater. A 2.5-meter-high bamboo is fixed every 2.5 meters in the nursery. The bamboo is tied horizontally on the top to form a frame to lay the first layer of shading net. A horizontal thin bamboo is placed 20 cm below the first layer of shading net to lay the second layer of movable shading net. The first layer of shading net is basically fixed from spring to autumn, and the second layer can be retracted or released as needed. Carefully adjust the light and temperature.
The width of the seedbed is 1.2 meters, the length is 12-16 meters (depending on the terrain), the height is about 30-40 centimeters (5-7 bricks high), the interval between the seedbeds is 50 centimeters, and the width of the passage is 130 centimeters. It is convenient for daily management. In winter, a plastic greenhouse is built for every two beds to keep warm. Pay attention to snow removal on snowy days to avoid the plastic greenhouse being crushed by too much snow. Build two water tanks with a water storage capacity of 1 cubic meter per mu (one mu ≈ 667 square meters) to handle tap water. In winter, 100-150 watt light bulbs are installed about 4 meters apart in the plastic greenhouse, mainly for warming.
2. Open-field cultivation
(1) Planting Qiaolan in the shade of trees. This is for the purpose of viewing. It is planted appropriately on the ground in front of the house, corner of the wall or tourist area with sparse shade of trees, but the original barren clay must be dug out and replaced with loose humus soil or good field topsoil. In winter, spread some straw on the mud surface of the roots to prevent frostbite of the orchid roots. If there is severe cold, straw mats or other soft coverings should be laid over the leaves to prevent frost damage. This type of ground-planted orchids can be left to grow naturally, except for the need for enhanced management and protection during the hot summer. Orchids planted in the open are crude species without petals. The cold-resistant coverings can be removed in the spring of the following year when the weather warms up. After years of growth, as long as it is watered and fertilized in time, it is still relatively adaptable and can bloom every year with a faint fragrance, making it a good choice for embellishing the countryside. However, when arranging orchids for ground planting, in addition to considering the quietness of the layout, the habits of orchids should also be considered. For example, spring orchids prefer partial shade, cymbidium orchids prefer a little sun, and autumn orchids, winter orchids, and annuli orchids should not be frozen.
(2) Potted orchids. This refers to growing orchids in a shade shed. For potted orchids, it is best to use clay pots, that is, plain fired clay pots. They have good air permeability, can filter water, and are cheap. They are economical orchid planting supplies. However, clay pots are relatively rough and not beautiful, so they are not suitable for exhibitions. Porcelain pots or glazed pots look beautiful, but their air permeability and water filtration are very poor. If they are used to grow orchids for a long time, the orchid roots will easily be damaged, making it difficult for the orchids to grow vigorously. Therefore, when using porcelain pots or glazed pots to grow orchids, you must pad some drainage tiles at the bottom of the pots. Or fillers such as clams; and watering should be moderate, not excessive. If you use clay pots to grow orchids, you can put them in larger porcelain pots or glazed pots when participating in exhibitions.
Yixing purple clay pots have beautiful and generous appearances and certain air permeability, making them more suitable for growing orchids.
Newly bought orchid pots must be soaked in water for several days, especially clay pots that have just been out of the kiln must be allowed to absorb enough water to completely eliminate their dry air. Generally, when growing orchids, new pots are often used for newly planted orchids, and old pots are often used when changing pots.
It is best not to place potted orchids directly on the ground, as they are easily disturbed by insect pests and weeds. Especially in the hot summer, the scorching sun and rising ground temperature will harm orchids; during thunderstorms and plum rain seasons, the humidity and heat will rise even more, which can easily damage orchid roots; and because it is close to the ground, the ventilation is poor. It is not conducive to the growth of aerial roots. To reduce the above effects, the orchid pot can be placed on an orchid platform made of cement slabs to facilitate up and down convection, continuously supply fresh air, promote orchid respiration, enhance metabolic function, accumulate nutrients and energy production, make orchids grow strong, and prevent ants, slugs, etc. from harming orchids. If conditions are limited, an empty clay pot can be turned upside down on the ground, and then the potted orchid can be placed on it.
3. Orchid room cultivation
Orchid rooms are mainly used for terrestrial orchids to overwinter. Different types of orchids have different ecological habits, so the time and room temperature requirements for overwintering are also different.
Terrestrial orchids can be cultivated outdoors as long as the temperature is not lower than 7℃-8℃. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, it is customary to move Jianlan, Hanlan and Baosuilan, which require slightly higher temperatures, into the room for cultivation after the "Beginning of Winter". Move some Chunlan and Huilan with flower buds under the eaves of the corridor or in a cold place to avoid the invasion of the first frost and affect the development of flower buds. After the "Minor Snow", the potted orchids cultivated from pseudobulbs and thin grasses, especially the orchids with pure heart petals, are gradually moved into the room and placed on the orchid rack near the window so that they can be exposed to sunlight. After the "Heavy Snow", all potted orchids are moved indoors for maintenance. Before the orchids are placed in the orchid room, wash the area around the orchid pots first, which can prevent mud from being contaminated with insect eggs, mold, etc., and make it look clean and elegant. Pay attention to the reasonable discharge when placing the orchid pots, which is convenient for sunlight transmission and ventilation.
When the ground orchids overwinter indoors, the key is to control the temperature and humidity. Generally, the room temperature should be kept above 7℃-8℃, and the Baosuilan should be kept at 10℃-15℃. After the orchid pot is brought into the room, if the weather is not yet severely cold and frozen, the south window should be opened around noon, and the small air window on the north should be opened to facilitate indoor air circulation. In the evening, if the indoor temperature is still above 5℃, the small air windows on the north and south can be slightly opened; if it is below 5℃, all windows should be closed. In the midwinter season, only half-open the windows at noon on a windless and sunny day to allow for a little ventilation. When the sun is slightly off, the doors and windows should be closed, and straw curtains or cotton curtains should be hung in the evening. If the temperature continues to drop below 3℃-5℃, a coal stove with a chimney can be used for heating.
After the beginning of spring, the climate gradually warms up. On a sunny noon, the doors and windows of the orchid room can be opened, but attention should be paid to the changes in temperature; in the afternoon, when the temperature gradually drops, the south window should be half-opened and half-closed; all windows should be closed before nightfall. During this period, the temperature of the orchid room should be kept at around 10℃. If the temperature is too high, the early-flowering varieties of spring orchids will bloom early, and the flowers will also wilt early. In early spring, it is even more important to prevent late spring cold, which will affect the growth of stamens and even frostbite the orchid roots.
After the "Qingzhe", all spring orchids and Huilan without flower buds can be moved out of the room and placed on open-air platforms. At night, reed curtains should be added to the sheds to prevent frost damage. All kinds of orchids with flower buds should still be kept in the orchid room for maintenance, and can be moved outdoors for cultivation after the "Qingming Festival"; but care should still be taken to prevent late frost at night.
During the period of indoor orchid cultivation, especially in the cold season, special attention must be paid to the dryness and humidity of potted orchids. The pot soil should be dry. When to water, you can look at the surface of the pot. For example, when the surface soil is in a powdery and loose state, and the soil below is still slightly moist, do not wait until the pot soil is completely dry before watering. When watering, first take the potted orchid down and put it on the ground, water along the water trough at the mouth of the pot, and avoid soaking the water into the leaf bundle. You can also put the orchid pot in a water tank and soak it shallowly for a few minutes, and the water should not soak the waist of the pot. When watering, if the water soaks into the leaf sheath, you should wipe off the water marks with a cloth in time, or let it dry in the sun before moving it back indoors. Since orchids are kept indoors for a long time, a lot of dust often adheres to the leaves, which hinders metabolism. You can choose sunny and warm weather, move the pots outdoors in the sun at noon, use a fine-hole spray bottle to spray and clean the leaves, wash away the dust, and then move them back indoors after the water stains are dry. If the water stains are not dry, the wet parts of the orchid leaves are prone to blackening and withering.
When growing orchids indoors, during the heating period. The indoor temperature is often high, the leaves appear dry, the soil in the pot is dry and loose, or the moss on the pot surface is haggard. You should spray some water on the passage and wall in time to let it evaporate to adjust the temperature. In short, when growing orchids indoors, it is better to keep the orchid grass in the pot or the moss on the pot surface green.
If you are an amateur orchid grower, due to limited conditions, you can use the outdoor south-facing sunny wall, one side leaning against the wall, and the other three sides are built with bricks to form a single-sloped floor box. The size of the area can be determined according to the number of pots. The inclined surface of the floor box is equipped with a wooden frame glass window or plastic film window that can be opened and closed. Orchids with long and tall leaves should be placed in a higher position against the wall, on an inverted empty flower pot, or on bricks, strips of wood, or cement boards stacked to a suitable height. Low orchid pots should be arranged in rows forward, and all leaf tips or the tops of the ring leaves should not touch the glass or plastic film on the window surface. In the severe cold season, when the temperature is too low or on windy and snowy days, the slanted windows must be covered with straw curtains or other coverings to prevent the invasion of cold air. When the weather is fine, especially after the beginning of spring, when the sun shines, the cold-proof straw curtains can be removed; at noon, when the sun is strong and the temperature is slightly higher, the cover window can be lifted to form a gap to adjust the fresh air. The cover window should be closed immediately after the sun is deflected. In daily life, you should pay great attention to not condense too many water droplets on the cover window glass to prevent them from dripping into the leaves. The wet parts often turn black and rot, or even die.
III. Planting of orchids
1. Planting timing
Whether it is replanting or new planting, the choice of timing has a great impact on the survival, growth, and development of orchids. Therefore, it is very important. Generally, the most suitable time is the dormant period of orchids, that is, March to April, before the new buds emerge from the soil; in terms of season, it is between the Spring Equinox and Qingming. If the new buds emerge from the soil, it is very inconvenient to operate, and the new buds will be broken or injured if you are not careful. When the dormant period of orchids is about to end, and the new buds and new roots are about to grow but have not yet grown, it is best to plant them at this time. Soon after planting, the roots will sprout and resume normal growth. If the orchids are planted too early, it will not be easy for them to "resurrect" after planting. If they encounter low temperatures, cold waves, late frosts, and spring thunder, they will often cause frostbite. In the winter in the Yangtze River Basin, the orchid room is rarely heated. The winter is very cold, so it is not recommended to divide the plants in severe winter.
In order to facilitate the operation of division, the soil can be properly dried before division. Make the roots white, produce inconspicuous shrinkage, make the originally brittle and easily broken fleshy roots become soft, and do not break too many roots when dividing and planting.
Large-scale orchid nurseries have a large planting workload and take a long time. Precious varieties should be planted at the best time. Ordinary varieties can be planted later or earlier as appropriate.
2.
Orchids propagated with orchid seedlings should be selected with good growth and no diseases or insects. After 2-3 years of planting, orchids need to be repotted or repotted. At this time, they should be propagated by division. When repotting, hold the bottom of the flower pot with your left palm, and carefully extend your right fingers into the leaves of the orchid seedlings to block the pot soil. Then turn the orchid pot upside down, tilt the pot sideways to face you, and touch the ground with the bottom edge of the pot mouth. At this time, lift the pot slightly upward with both hands at the same time, so that the bottom edge of the pot gently hits the ground to loosen the pot soil, turn the pot body, change the contact point of the bottom edge of the pot mouth hitting the ground, and let the pot soil gradually loosen evenly and leave the pot. Hold the orchid plant with your right hand and remove the pot with your left hand.
For larger plants that have been cleaned up, select them. Find the natural gap between the two pseudobulbs that is wide and easy to loosen when shaken by hand, cut the two pseudobulbs apart, which is called "opening a road" by our ancestors. Then use both hands to control the base of the two clusters, shake and pull slowly along the "road" to separate them into two clusters.
Prune the separated orchid clusters appropriately, and then dry them in a cool and ventilated place. When the orchid roots become soft and easy to bend, they can be planted. Generally, it takes half a day to dry them when the weather is clear. Of course, they should not be dried too dry.
3. Planting procedure
: Do not split the separated orchid clusters too sporadically. Each cluster should have at least 3-5 seedlings. It is best to keep one-year-old plants, two-year-old plants and three-year-old plants in the same cluster.
(1) Pot pad. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a tile, and then gradually fill it with bricks, tiles or shells. Fill the large gaps with mud or pebbles, generally about 1/2-1/3 of the height of the pot. The remaining net height is about 10-15 cm, which is reserved for the culture soil layer. The specific height should be determined according to the type of orchid, the length of the orchid roots and the height of the pot. The bedding should not be filled too densely or too solid, and some pores should be left. Practice has shown that some new roots can grow well in the pores of the bedding layer.
(2) Planting. First fill the bedding layer with 2-3 cm of culture soil, and slightly compact it with your hands. Then you can place the orchid upright on it. Depending on the size of the plant and the flower pot, you can plant several single plants, 2 clusters, 3 clusters or more in one pot. 3 clusters should be planted in a tripod shape. 4 clusters can be planted in a square shape, and 5 clusters should be arranged in a plum blossom shape. The orchid roots should stretch naturally and the leaves should spread out in all directions. Slowly place the orchid roots in the pot so that the orchid roots stretch naturally and try not to rub against the inner wall of the pot.
(3) Fill the soil. When planting, hold the leaves with one hand and add nutrient soil with the other hand. Hold the base of the orchid plant and lift it up slightly to stretch the roots, and shake the orchid pot at the same time. Let the culture soil penetrate deep into the root zone; continue to add soil and shake the orchid pot to adjust the position and height of the orchid. Press along the edge of the pot with your hands, but be careful not to overload it to damage the roots. Continue to add soil and squeeze until the soil on the surface of the pot is 2-3 cm higher than the mouth of the pot, slightly shaped like a steamed bun. The culture soil should cover all the orchid roots and cover the base
of the pseudobulb. The depth of the soil filling is traditionally believed to be shallow for spring orchids and deep for Hui orchids, but generally it should not cover the leaf base on the pseudobulb. When new orchids grow in the mountains, the plants leave obvious marks above and below the soil surface, which can be used as a reference.
(4) Paving. After planting, you can spread a layer of small stones or moss on the surface of the potting soil. It is best to use high-quality moss from the forest. It is not only beautiful, but also can regulate moisture, and can protect the leaf surface from being contaminated by mud and water, and the new buds will not be infected by bacteria in the soil and rot. In addition, it can slow down the erosion of the potting soil by rainwater and keep the potting soil loose.
(5) Watering. After planting, water the plant for the first time. The soil in the pot must be soaked. The water droplets should be small and the force should not be too strong. If the plant is placed in a basin of water, do not soak it for too long. Once the soil is soaked, take the pot out immediately and move it to a shaded place for maintenance.
Watering:
Ideal watering time:
There is no fixed time for watering orchids. However, due to various external factors, if the orchid is not watered within a certain period of time, it will not only be easy to damage the plant, but also its physiological function will be greatly changed. Regardless of whether the soil is soft or hard, the watering time is roughly as follows:
1. On sunny days, or when the temperature in the shed is above 23 degrees Celsius, it is best to water between 7 and 9 pm. The higher the temperature, the later the watering. The general practice is:
(1) When the temperature is between 23 and 24 degrees Celsius, water it around 7 pm.
(2) When the temperature is between 25 and 26 degrees Celsius, water it around 8 pm.
(3) When the temperature is above 28 degrees Celsius, watering should be done after 9 pm.
2. On cloudy days, or when the temperature in the shed is between 19 and 22 degrees Celsius, it is best to water between 5 and 6 pm. However, in cloudy weather, the temperature is sometimes very high, so you need to be careful. The general practice is:
(1) When the temperature is between 19 and 20 degrees Celsius, water around 5 pm.
(2) When the temperature is between 21 and 22 degrees Celsius, water around 6 pm.
(3) On rainy, cloudy or cold days, or when the temperature in the shed is above 23 degrees Celsius, it is best to water the plants between 7 and 9 p.m., that is, the higher the temperature, the later the watering should be. The general practice is: On cold days, or when the temperature in the shed is below 18 degrees Celsius, it is best to water the plants between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. However, in rainy and cloudy weather, when the temperature is sometimes above 25 degrees Celsius, it is important to pay attention, that is, the lower the temperature
, the earlier the watering should be done. The general practice is: (1) When the temperature is between 17 and 19 degrees Celsius, water the plants
around 3 p.m. (2
) When the temperature is between 15 and 17 degrees Celsius, water the plants around 2 p.m. (3) When
the temperature is between 12 and 15 degrees Celsius, water the plants around 1 p.m. (4) When the temperature is between 10 and 12 degrees Celsius, water the plants at 12 noon.
(5) When the temperature is below 9 degrees Celsius, water the plants around 11 a.m.
But it should be noted that if the sunlight is strong and the temperature is low, you can water it without worry, because the quality of orchid roots is related to temperature and sunlight.
(V) Water quality: As long as it is drinkable water for humans, tap water or well water is fine.
(6) Learn from nature: When orchids need water and when they don’t need water depends mainly on whether the orchids have sprouted and are in the growing season. The rainy season is about a month long and the plants absorb a lot of water, so they grow quickly. In summer and winter, they are too hot and too cold, which are not suitable for orchids to grow. They are in a dormant period. Therefore, if the orchid pot is dry, you need to water it. In summer, due to the hot climate, water evaporates quickly, so you need to water it when it is dry. Otherwise, the orchid will die of dehydration. In winter, the temperature is low and if there is no sunlight or wind, the orchid will not be affected even if it is not watered for a month. Therefore, if you water the orchid frequently in low temperatures and without sunlight, the orchids will easily rot. In autumn, the orchids are forming the root and preparing to bloom. Therefore, you need to adopt a slightly dry watering method, that is, wait for the orchid pot to dry for one or two days before watering it. Therefore, the control of watering depends mainly on whether the orchid is in the growing period, the forming and flowering period, or the dormant period to determine the dryness and humidity of the orchid pot. Therefore, you need to learn from nature and look at the agricultural calendar to decide how to water the orchid. (If the material in the pot is too fine, do not let it get wet in the rain, otherwise the roots will rot)
(VII) Precautions:
1. In the hot and muggy summer, do not water during the day. If you encounter a shower that hits the orchid, wait until the rain stops, then water it again to fully wet the orchid, so as to avoid the sun coming out again. In a semi-wet state, the orchid is easily steamed and injured by the high temperature.
2. In the hot and strong light conditions during the day in summer, avoid fertilizing and spraying. If you want to fertilize and spray, you can do it half an hour after watering at 10 pm to avoid fertilizer and pesticide damage. (During the daytime, the water evaporates quickly, causing the concentration of fertilizer and pesticide to increase rapidly, and the leaves and roots cannot bear it, which will produce adverse side effects). 3.
In the cold winter, do not water when there is no sunlight below 15°. Just spray the leaves. If the roots are too wet and the temperature is below 8°, they are prone to frostbite and rot.
4. In the winter, the temperature is low, but the sunlight is strong, you can still water it, because photosynthesis is good and the growth of orchid roots is also good.
5. Fertilize and spray medicine half an hour after watering (avoid strong light and high temperature) to prevent fertilizer and medicine damage.
Leaf care
In addition to appreciating the fragrance and beauty of potted orchids, we can often only appreciate its leaves. Most of its leaves are narrow and half-drooping, fluttering in the breeze, graceful and poetic. The ancients said: "Cherish leaves like jade rings."
1. Orchid leaves have high ornamental value. The shape and posture of orchid leaves are rich in changes, soft but not weak, upright but not rigid, beautiful and moving. Orchid flowers are lovely, but good flowers are rare, and flowers fall helplessly, while orchid leaves are evergreen all year round, giving people unlimited enjoyment. The elegance of orchids is revealed in both flowers and leaves. Among many ornamental plants, orchid leaves have a particularly high ornamental value.
2. Lush leaves are the prerequisite for good flowers. From the perspective of plant physiology, leaves are organs that produce nutrients. If you want more and better orchids, you must first make the leaves healthy and lush. If the leaves are broken and the flowers are plentiful, it is just a sign of rapid decay.
3. The leaves of orchids are the foil of orchids. Although orchids are in bloom, but the leaves are broken and sick, it is like a beautiful woman in ragged clothes, which is lamentable.
If the orchids are lush and the leaves are healthy, they complement each other and bring out the best in each other. To keep the leaves intact, first of all, we must control the humidity of the air and maintain good ventilation; strengthen the prevention and control of diseases and pests to protect the orchid leaves from insect bites and diseases, and keep the leaves intact. Secondly, preserve the tip of the leaf, the tip of the orchid leaf, and try to preserve it as much as possible, and don't cut it off easily. Once the tip of the leaf is lost, the orchid leaf becomes a sword without a blade and looks dull. The key to preserving the tip of the leaf is to carefully maintain and manage it on a daily basis to ensure the water and nutrients needed by the orchid, and to prevent the tip from burning.
Common Problems Diagnosis
A. Common problems of most orchids
a. Leaves
1. The leaves are dark green and healthy in appearance, but the plant does not bloom.
It may be due to insufficient light. Check the light level and increase the light.
2. The leaves are dull and finally wither .
If the plant does not absorb enough water, check the root system. If the root system is lush and healthy and strong, it means that the plant is not getting enough water. If the root system is not healthy, repot it as soon as possible.
3. The leaves gradually turn yellow.
Too much light or insufficient nitrogen fertilizer.
4. Clear water-like spots appear on the leaves.
Usually bacterial infection, repot and treat with fungicide.
5. The upper leaves or leaves under the sun are bent and white.
Sunburn, too much light.
6. New leaves are sunken
. Tissue disintegration caused by too low water temperature or too low air temperature.
7. The leaf tips turn black and brown, and the roots wilt.
Too much fertilizer causes salt damage. Check the fertilizer formula and rinse at least once a month. When the plant is too dry, water it instead of fertilizer.
8. The leaves turn yellow, brown and die.
Fungal damage, too much water, too wet and disintegrated medium, too high relative humidity, and too low temperature. The treatment method is to use fungicides, cut off dead or brown leaves, and replant. The roots should be completely dry before watering.
9. Black stripes appear on the leaves
. Caused by viruses.
b. New leaves
1. Grow fast but soften.
Too much nitrogen fertilizer.
2. Small new leaf area, growth is hindered, or unable to grow upward.
Plants are stressed: weak roots, insufficient light, too high temperature, nitrogen deficiency, etc.
c. Flower buds, flowers and pedicels
1. Flower buds turn yellow and then fall off.
Too high temperature, too high or too low light, too low relative humidity, inappropriate water supply, lack of trace elements, weak roots, etc.
2. Flower buds cannot fully open .
Genetic characteristics, too low temperature, too low relative humidity, thrips damage.
3. Flowers are too small and the color is not as bright as before.
Insufficient light or too high temperature.
4. Flowers wilt quickly.
Too high or too low temperature, exposure to direct sunlight, too low relative humidity, insufficient fertilizer or trace elements, inappropriate water supply, poor root development.
5. Too few flowers.
Weak plants, too low light, lack of phosphorus fertilizer (P).
6. Brown spots or mosaic shapes appear on flowers
. Caused by viruses.
7. Poor arrangement of flowers
Change the angle of the flowerpot during the stemming stage.
d. Roots
1. Roots turn black or brown
The root system is damaged and damaged by root rot fungi. The damaged roots should be removed.
2. The root protuberances have bite marks or lose the root protuberances
Being bitten by insects.
3. The root protuberances die
Accumulation of salts, from poor water quality, too much fertilizer, insufficient rinsing, etc.
4. Root deformation
Lack of chlorine
5. Poor root development
Insufficient trace elements
B. Phalaenopsis cultivation problems
a. Leaves
1. The new leaves are smaller than the original old leaves
The plant is under stress, including poor root development, insufficient light, and high temperature. The cultivation environment should be checked and the pot should be changed if necessary.
2. Wrinkles on the leaves
Insufficient water.
3. The leaves are weak, gradually bend and wrinkle
The plant does not absorb enough water, which may be due to poor root system or insufficient water supply.
4. Dark red leaves
Usually appear on the back of the leaves, due to too much light, insufficient N fertilizer or insufficient P fertilizer.
5. New leaves turn red
Fungal damage.
6. Bottom leaves turn dark red or lose color
Usually occurs when repotting, especially when relative humidity is too high or light is too strong.
7. New leaves do not grow or growth is restricted
N or P deficiency.
8. Leaf fall
Old leaves age when new leaves are formed, or other stresses, including: poor temperature, humidity, insufficient water supply, lack of P fertilizer or fungal damage.
b. Flower buds, pedicels, flowers
1. Pedicels bend and lose color
Caused by viruses.
2. Pedicels are wavy
Genetic characteristics of a few varieties, or insufficient light.
3. Pedicels are too
short Too much light.
4. The top of the pedicel turns brown
Water temperature is too low and tissues disintegrate.
5. Pedicels grow leaves
Due to high temperature, insufficient light, medium disintegration, and poor plant health.
6. Pedicels are thin
P deficiency, too little light.
7. Flowers are rotten or have water spots
Water droplets on the petals cause fungi, and the air humidity or moisture is too high.
C. Cattleya Orchid (Cattleya) Cultivation Problems
a. Leaves
1. Turns brown after growth and then dies.
It may be due to fungal damage, too much water, medium collapse, high humidity and low temperature environment.
2. New leaves do not grow or growth is blocked.
Insufficient N fertilizer or P fertilizer, growth buds are injured or rot.
b. Sheaths, buds and flowers
1. Sheaths dry up
. The plant blooms before it matures. Some varieties have the characteristics of this, and they bloom after the sheaths dry up.
2. Sheaths or buds turn reddish brown or waterlogged.
Water drops stop on sheaths or buds and cause corruption.
D. Tiger Orchid (Cymbidium) Cultivation Problems
a. New leaves
1. The growth area of new leaves is smaller than that of old leaves, growth is blocked, and leaves cannot grow upward. The plant is stressed, the root system is weak, the amount of light is insufficient, the temperature is too high, and the N fertilizer is insufficient.
2. Leaves turn yellow and die
. Insufficient water.
3. Leaves grow and turn reddish brown, and then die.
Fungal influence, too much water, medium collapse, and high humidity.
b. Sheath, bud, flower
1. Sheath or bud turns reddish brown or water-stained
Water droplets remain on the sheath, causing corruption.
2. Buds dry up or fall off
Daytime or nighttime temperature is too high: Daytime temperature should not exceed 18.3℃ during the bud development stage, and nighttime temperature should be maintained at 10-15.6℃.
3. Flowers turn yellow and fall off
Temperature is too high, light is too strong or insufficient, air is too dry, water supply is poor, trace elements are insufficient or too much.
E. Cultivation problems of Oncidium
a. Leaves
1. New leaves are smaller than the original old leaves
Plants are under stress, including poor root development, insufficient light, high temperature, etc. The cultivation environment should be checked and pots should be changed if necessary.
2. Leaves turn yellow, turn brown and die
Fungal infection, excessive water, medium collapse, high humidity and low temperature.
3. New leaves do not grow or growth is blocked
N fertilizer or P fertilizer is insufficient, and the growing apical buds are damaged or rotten.
b. Flower stems, buds, and flowers
1. Flower stems dry up and stop growing .
This may be caused by insect damage, insufficient water absorption by the plant, or an unsuitable temperature range.
2. Flower stems turn reddish brown and water-soaked . Water stays in the flower stems, causing them to rot. F. Slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum, Cyperus) a. New leaves 1. New leaves are smaller than the old leaves . The plant is under stress, including poor root development, insufficient light, and high temperatures. The cultivation environment should be checked and pots should be changed if necessary. 2. The plant stem axis is too high and the light is insufficient. 3. The leaf tips are reddish brown or have spots . This is due to insufficient water or root rot. 4. Leaves turn yellow, then brown and die. This may be caused by fungi, excessive water, rotten media, high humidity, and low temperatures. 5. Leaves have water spots and turn reddish brown, black, or gray, sometimes with yellow edges. This is usually caused by bacterial infection. Apply fungicides and keep them dry for several weeks. 6. White spots or irregular dark markings are caused by bacterial infection. 7. New leaves do not grow or stop growing due to insufficient N fertilizer or P fertilizer, and the growth buds are injured or rotten.
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Soak the orchid roots in water first.
Carefully pull out the orchid plants.
Remove the old planting materials.
Wash the whole plant
. Prune the roots or cut the leaves
. If there are many plants , divide them
. Apply fungicide.
Dry in the shade before planting. Prevent bacteria from
the wound first. Disinfect
the old pot
. Repot and divide:
The pot should not be too
large. Do not plant the orchid shallowly.
Place the new buds in the
center. The roots should be spread out. The plant
body should be fixed . The planting materials should
be slightly pressed.
Do not water for several days .
Avoid strong light.
Plant pot:
Prepare the materials.
Put the ears
in the flower pot and put the mat
to cover the mat
. The roots are spread out.
Fill the surrounding area with snake wood chips. The plant
body should be fixed.
Nameplates should be used for record.
To promote orchid flowering, pay attention to the following aspects:
1. Temperature. To promote orchid flowering, the temperature difference between day and night should be about ten degrees Celsius, that is, it grows best under the temperature conditions of 18 to 21 degrees Celsius during the day and 7 to 10 degrees Celsius at night, and it will bloom more. If the temperature is high at night, the leaves of the orchid will be soft and the flower buds will fall off. Too low temperature will cause blind buds and spots on the leaves. Flowers will be damaged by low temperatures during flowering, and brown spots will appear on the flowers.
2. Watering. The amount of watering is also the main condition for orchids to bloom. Water should be controlled. Too much water will make orchids grow too long and it is difficult to produce flower buds. Appropriate water is one of the ways to promote flowering. However, if there is a lack of water, the buds will be clamped.
3. Light. Light is the main factor that promotes orchids to breed flower buds. The intensity of light varies greatly depending on the type of orchid. Generally, when the flower buds are forming, if the orchid is placed under a fairly bright light, the red, dark red, and yellow colors will deepen when it blooms. For orchids with green or white flowers, the light intensity should be reduced as soon as the flower buds first appear to ensure that the color of the flowers is more elegant, and more light should be given again after the flowers have bloomed. Generally, orchids need 2 to 3 hours of light. If the leaves are soft and moderately green, it means that the light is normal. If the leaves are dark green and soft, it means that more light is needed, and if the leaves are light yellow, it means that less light is needed.
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