Please note that pruning should only be done when the potting soil is 80% dry. Do not prune on rainy days, and do not use unclean pruning shears, as this can easily lead to infection of the wounds. Hydrangeas do not require pruning at this time; simply remove any withered leaves and clean the plant thoroughly.

After pruning roses, on a sunny day, spray with lime sulfur at a ratio of 500:1. Spray again with lime sulfur a week after pruning and removing all leaves; this provides excellent prevention against diseases in the following year. Remember, lime sulfur is not a cure-all: do not spray on growing plants, such as foxgloves, delphiniums, or camellias! Do not spray on plants with flower buds, such as large-flowered hydrangeas and all types of hydrangeas! It is mainly suitable for spraying large rose seedlings, deciduous trees, fruit trees, deciduous shrubs, and bare soil; it is generally not used for root drenching.

Two days after pruning, once there's no sap flow, you can repot the rose. You can repot it into a larger pot from a smaller one, or leave it in the original pot and replace one-third of the soil. This step is crucial because roses need fertilizer and micronutrients to grow, and after a year of absorption, the micronutrients in the old substrate are almost depleted. You can buy pre-mixed potting mixes, which usually include controlled-release fertilizer. Alternatively, you can mix your own; many rose enthusiasts like to mix 10% soil + bone meal + cooked chicken manure + fish intestines, etc. Everyone has their own preferred formula, somewhat like kimchi – every household is different. I personally recommend using pre-mixed potting mixes for potted plants, as they are safer. If you mix your own soil, make sure it's thoroughly mixed before use. The amount of organic fertilizer in the pot should be like seasoning in cooking – use it sparingly and gently. Otherwise, you might not feel the damage in winter and spring, but problems will arise in summer: leaves will wither, and new buds will turn black – all signs of fertilizer burn.

Another point is that you shouldn't put a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the pot before planting flowers; this is not advisable. The fertilizer must be mixed thoroughly. The base fertilizer should only meet basic needs; don't use too much. For plants planted in the ground, you can be more flexible. Fish intestines or chicken droppings are fine, as long as they are away from the roots. Feel free to use whatever you like, but don't overdo it.

Roses primarily rely on quick-acting liquid fertilizer applied the following spring for optimal flowering. In early February, when the leaves begin to unfurl, begin applying a general-purpose fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro (1200:1 ratio), spraying the stems, leaves, and watering the roots. Do this once a week. If it rains and watering the roots is not possible, spray the leaves during breaks in the rain; this is helpful. In early April, when the roses have about four leaves, begin applying Miracle-Gro flower-specific or rose-specific liquid fertilizer. Apply weekly, both as a foliar spray and for root irrigation, continuing until around April 15th. The exact timing depends on the climate and region. Once the flower buds are fully developed and colored, stop fertilizing and wait for the flowers to bloom.