Maintenance of white orchid/camellia/phalaenopsis
White orchids
Watering is the key to growing white jasmine well, but it is afraid of waterlogging and cannot tolerate drought.
Water thoroughly once in spring when you move out of the house, and water thoroughly every other day; water once in the morning and evening in summer, spray the leaves if it is too dry; water once every 2/3 days in autumn; withhold water in winter, as long as the pot soil is slightly moist; pour out the accumulated water in time after rain. Apply thin fertilizer frequently, preferably cake fertilizer, no fertilizer in winter, from the beginning of the new buds to June, water once every 3/4 days, from July to September, water once every 5/6 days, and stop applying fertilizer after several times.
Usually change the pot once every 2-3 years, it is better to change the pot after the Grain Rain, and add loose fertile soil. In winter, keep in the house, the minimum room temperature should be kept above 5℃, and it is best to move out of the house from Qingming to Grain Rain.
New shoots are sent out 3 times a year. The first time is in late February, the second time is in mid-June, and the third time is in early August. Fertilize once every ten days during the growing season, and apply phosphorus fertilizer 2-3 times during the flowering period. At the same time, cut off diseased branches, dead branches, and overgrown branches, and remove some old leaves to inhibit tree growth and promote more flowering.
(1) Grafting. There are two types of grafting: grafting by approaching and cutting.
Grafting: Grafting can be done from spring to autumn, throughout the growing season. It is usually done from April to July. The best grafting position is 70 cm from the ground. After binding, wrap it with mud and wrap it with leaves on the outside to prevent rain erosion. It can be cut off after about 60 days. Grafting is a method that is easier to survive, but it does not grow as vigorously as cutting.
(2) Layering. There are two types of layering: ordinary layering and college layering.
① Ordinary layering: Layering is best done in February or March. Cut the base of the branch to be layered to half its depth, then cut a section upwards, insert a tile in the middle, and press lightly into the soil without breaking it. Use a "U"-shaped thick iron wire to insert into the soil, fix it, prevent it from curling up, and pile up the soil. Layering in spring, and cut it off and transplant it after the roots and buds emerge.
② High-branch layering: Before the beginning of the dog days, select strong and disease-free young branches (1.5-2 cm in diameter) from the mother plant, cut a crack at the bottom of the pot, cover it with a bamboo tube or a bottomless clay pot, fill it with culture soil, tie it tightly with a thin rope, spray it with a small amount of water frequently to keep it moist, new roots will grow around May of the following year, and you can remove it and plant it.
If you do not want to leave seeds after the flowers fade, the fruits should be cut off to avoid wasting nutrients.
For potted white orchids, after germination in April, you can bend them at any time as the new shoots grow to limit the height of the main trunk. After the flowers fade, the taproot should be repaired, and the plants should be planted in the field. They should be potted before the flowers bloom to make the flowers profuse and gorgeous.
White orchids are sown and raised at the end of September or the beginning of October. The ripe fruits are picked, the seeds are taken, soaked in plant ash water for 1/2 day, the waxy aril is rubbed off, and they can be sown after washing; the seeds can also be washed and refrigerated by wet sand stratification method, and sown in pots indoors in March of the following year, and the seedlings will emerge in about 20 days.
1. Anthracnose. In the early stage, the leaves turn green and small yellow spots appear, which gradually expand into round or oval shapes. Several spots merge into irregular spots, with light brown in the center and dark brown on the edges. They are semicircular at the leaf margins, causing the leaves to twist. In severe cases, the leaves are scorched, blackened and fall off. Excessive watering and excessive humidity can easily cause the disease. The disease first occurs in June, and the peak period is from July to August. Prevention and control methods: Allow water to flow in from the edge of the pot, but not too much; cut off diseased leaves and tips, remove fallen leaves and destroy them to reduce the source of the disease; in the spring and rainy seasons, spray an equal amount of 100-200 times Bordeaux mixture, 500-800 times 65% Mancozeb, or 1000 times 70% methyl thiophanate every 10-15 days, spray 3 or 4 times in a row to inhibit the occurrence of the disease.
2. Root rot. Excessive watering or waterlogging can easily cause the roots to turn black and rot. In mild cases, the plants will grow poorly, with leaves turning yellow and falling off, and in severe cases, the entire plant will die. Improving soil drainage conditions is an important measure to prevent diseases. Water when the soil is dry and wet, and water thoroughly when watering, and pay attention to loosening the soil. On rainy days, protect the soil from rain and dump the accumulated water in time. Pad the bottom of the pot with broken tiles and other drainage materials. When placing the pot outdoors, it is best to use bricks to pad the pot for drainage. If the plant is infected during the growth period, use 250 times diluted 65% Zineb, 250 times diluted 50% Zineb, or 500 times diluted 50% Carbendazim to water the roots.
3. Chlorosis. If the soil in the pot is alkaline and the water is high in salt and alkali, the leaves will gradually turn yellow and white, and the leaves will partially become necrotic and brown. Spray 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution on the leaves once a week for 3-4 times, and apply alum fertilizer at the same time. You can also apply 0.5% ferrous sulfate solution for prevention and treatment.
4. Infested by scale insects and red spiders, the leaves turn yellow and fall off in severe cases, affecting growth. Check the back of the leaves regularly, and a small amount of scale insects can be caught manually. Fill a sprayer with water, add 3 or 4 drops of DDT or malathion and spray to kill the red spiders. You can also dip a small cotton swab in DDT and insert it into the pot to fumigate. Aphids occur in spring and summer, and are most serious in May and June. You can spray with 1000 times diluted 40% malathion or 1000 times diluted 25% phosmet, or use 1:200 laundry detergent water, add a few drops of vegetable oil, mix well and spray. The spiny moth is a leaf-eating pest. In severe cases, the entire pot of white jasmine leaves will be eaten up in less than a few days. You can manually capture or remove the affected leaves (mostly on the back of the leaves), or spray with 1000 times diluted 90% crystal dichlorvos, or 600 times diluted 50% cypermethrin for prevention and control.
Camellia
Branches and shoots grow twice a year, starting from March to April in spring, and from July to September in summer. The flowering period is 2 to 3 months long, and the single flower period is 7 to 15 days.
The best time for cuttings is mid-to-late June. The second cutting is done in late August to early September. Use shade facilities and keep the temperature at around 25°C. Cuttings should be selected from semi-mature branches of the current year with full crown tissue, complete leaves, full leaf buds, and no diseases or insect pests. The cuttings should be 4-10 cm long, with 2 leaves left at the tip and some old branches at the base when cut. Cut in the early morning and insert into the substrate about 3 cm. The cutting density is 10-14 cm in row spacing and 3-4 cm in plant spacing. The leaves intersect each other without overlapping. The cuttings are about 3 cm into the soil and sprayed with water after insertion. It takes about 30 days from cutting to rooting. Pay attention to spraying water on the leaves every day to keep the leaves covered with water. The temperature is maintained at 20-25°C. It will heal in about 3 weeks after cutting and take root after 6 weeks. When the roots are 3-4 cm long, transplant them into pots. After rooting, gradually increase the sunlight. After October, the seedlings will be fully exposed to sunlight to accelerate lignification. When cutting, dip the base of the cuttings in 0.4% to 0.5% indolebutyric acid solution for 2 to 5 seconds to promote rooting.
The survival rate is highest when grafting is done in May to June when the new shoots are semi-solidified. After grafting, germination and shoot growth are fast. The rootstock is mainly Camellia oleifera. Seeds are collected in October, stored in sand in winter, and sown in early April of the following year. When the seedlings grow to 4 to 5 cm, they can be grafted. Use a blade to cut off the embryo part of the bud rootstock, split a knife vertically along the pith upward in the center of the cross section of the hypocotyl, then take a section of the Camellia scion, and also cut the base below the section into a right wedge shape. Immediately insert the cut scion into the bottom of the crack of the rootstock, align it with the cambium on both sides, tie it with cotton thread, and put it in a clean plastic bag. Remove the bag after about 40 days, and it will take about 60 days for germination and shoot growth.
Layering propagation: Select healthy one-year-old branches in the rainy season, peel them in a ring shape 20 cm from the top, 1 cm wide, tie them with leaf humus and wrap them with plastic film. They will take root after about 60 days. Cut them and plant them directly in pots with a high survival rate.
For tissue culture propagation, seedlings are often used as explants. After routine disinfection, they are cut into 1 cm long and inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 1 mg/L kinetin, 1 mg/L 6-benzylaminoadenine and 0.1 mg/L indoleacetic acid. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus tissue is formed, but no buds are formed. After being transferred to a new medium, single branches of 4 cm begin to form, and then they are soaked in a 0.5 mg/L indolebutyric acid solution for 20 minutes, and then transferred to 1/2 MS medium. Roots grow after 4 weeks. After growing on the rooting medium for 8 weeks, the seedlings are transplanted into pots filled with perlite and peat.
It is best to add 1/2 to 1/3 of the cut pine needles that have been decomposed for one year to the garden soil. Plant in the pot in November or February to March of the following year. Avoid planting in the hot season. Water the plant sufficiently after planting, and water it appropriately at other times. The amount of watering varies with the season. The plant enters the growth and germination period around Qingming Festival, and the amount of water should be gradually increased. After the new shoots stop growing (around late May), water should be properly controlled to promote flower bud differentiation. In the rainy season in June, water accumulation should be prevented. In the summer, the temperature is high, and the leaves need to be sprayed with water. Spraying water should be done in the early morning or evening, and avoid spraying water at noon. The number of watering should be reduced in winter. Avoid pouring cold water under the hot sun to prevent the roots from adapting and causing leaf fall. In high temperatures or windy days, water or spray water more. When the air humidity is high, reduce the amount of watering. In case of drought and dehydration, the branches and leaves wilt. Immediately place the plants in the shade, water them thoroughly, and spray water on the leaves. In the hot summer and autumn seasons, shade and cool down in time. In winter, prevent freezing and overwinter indoors at 3-4℃. If the temperature exceeds 16℃, it will germinate early.
15-20 cm pots are commonly used for potted plants. Repot after flowering in spring or in September and October every year, cut off the long branches or dead branches, and replace with fertile leaf mold. Too wet potting soil is easy to rot. Too dry, the leaves curl, affecting the development of flower buds. Fertilization is not needed immediately after repotting in spring. After summer, the stems and leaves are in the vigorous growth period. Fertilize once every half month or use "Huiyou" 21-7-7 acid fertilizer. From September buds to flowering period, apply 1-2 times of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In late summer and early autumn, camellia begins to form flower buds. Each branch should have 1-2 flower buds, not too many, so as not to consume nutrients and affect the flowering of the main flower buds. Pay attention to the position of the leaf buds when picking buds to keep the plant shape beautiful. Sufficient water should be maintained during the growing period, and the leaves should be sprayed with water once a day, and the air humidity should be maintained at a high level. Shade 50% in summer. Apply water and fertilizer once a month, and apply concentrated fertilizer before and after the new shoots emerge. Start to gradually control the fertilizer after August, and stop fertilizing after September to promote the formation of flower buds. Apply liquid fertilizer again after the flower buds are formed.
There are camellia anthracnose and camellia cake disease; common insect pests include red spiders and scale insects. When camellia is cultivated indoors or in greenhouses, if ventilation is poor, it is susceptible to red spiders and scale insects. You can spray 40% omethoate EC 1000 times diluted to prevent and control or wash it clean. In the rainy season, the air humidity is high and anthracnose often occurs. You can spray with equal Bordeaux mixture or 25% carbendazim wettable powder 1000 times diluted to prevent and control.
Common diseases and insect pests of flowers in spring
The temperature in spring is warm and cold, and the air humidity is high. At present, the occurrence of crop diseases and insect pests is moderate to severe, and there are also many diseases and insect pests of flowers. Generally, the following are more serious in April and May: Aphids Hibiscus, peach, hibiscus, rose, honeysuckle, etc. are all susceptible to aphids. As the temperature rises, aphids are also increasing. Prevention and control methods: 1. Spray 40% omethoate or 50% phosmet with 1200-1500 times of water. 2. For a small number of potted flowers, you can also spray 70-100 times of neutral laundry detergent solution. Red spiders start to harm jasmine, hibiscus, asparagus, rose, dahlia, etc. from early April. Prevention and control methods: 1. Spray 1000 times of Supusha solution. 2. For a small number of potted flowers, frequently wash the front and back of the leaves with tap water, or spray or dip in 100-150 times of boiled and cooled batter water, and then rinse with clean water after one or two days, which can achieve obvious results. Scale insects (flower lice) The scale insects on magnolia, rose, boxwood, and pittosporum mostly begin to hatch from mid-April to mid-to-late May. Prevention and control methods: 1. Gently brush off the insects before they hatch. 2. Spray 40% omethoate at a concentration of 1000-1500 times during the larval hatching period. Damping-off disease When the temperature reaches 20℃, newly sown flowers, seedlings and some flowers with rotten roots are very likely to develop damping-off disease when the soil humidity is high. Prevention and control methods: 1. Before sowing, mix 1.5-4 kg of 70% pentachloronitrobenzene evenly in the soil for each seedling. 2. Control watering during the seedling stage and do not make the soil too wet. 3. At the beginning of the disease, irrigate with 1% ferrous sulfate or 200-400 times 50% mancozeb solution, irrigate 2-4 kg of solution per square meter. Rust disease Rose rust attacks roses when they are in bud. Prevention and control methods: 1. When the roses germinate, the yellow diseased buds that germinate first should be removed and burned in time to eliminate the source of infection. 2. Spray 15% triadimefon at a concentration of 700-1000 times during the initial invasion period. Powdery mildew of roses and Impatiens mostly occurs in May and June, and it is easy to cause yellow leaves, withered leaves, and bending of tender shoots in summer. Prevention and control methods: 1. Pay attention to the ventilation and light transmission of flowers. 2. Apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. 3. Spray 15% triamcinol 700-1000 times diluted once in the initial infection period.
How to identify flower diseases and pests
? Flower diseases are generally divided into two categories: physiological diseases and parasitic diseases. Physiological diseases are mainly caused by unsuitable climate and soil conditions. Common physiological diseases include: burns caused by strong light in summer; frost damage caused by low temperature in winter; root rot caused by excessive water; scorched edges and wilting of leaves caused by insufficient water; lack of certain nutrients in the soil, nutrient deficiency, etc. Parasitic diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, etc. infecting flowers. These organisms have different forms, but most of them have parasitic and pathogenic power, and have strong reproductive capacity. They can spread from susceptible plants to healthy plants through various channels (stomata, wounds, insects, wind, rain, etc.), grow, develop, reproduce, and spread under suitable environmental conditions, over and over again, and gradually expand and spread. Therefore, this type of disease causes the greatest harm to flowers. Fungi Fungi are lower organisms with no chlorophyll and eukaryotes. It uses mycelium as a nutrient body and spores for reproduction. It is the most important type of flower disease. Most fungal diseases have obvious symptoms, such as mold, powder, rust, dots, filaments, etc. These characteristics are one of the main bases for identifying fungal diseases. Common fungal diseases include powdery mildew and anthracnose. Bacteria Bacteria are a type of single-cell prokaryotes that reproduce by fission. The main characteristics of bacterial diseases are that the affected tissue is water-soaked or the lesions are translucent, and under humid conditions, bacterial mucus overflows from the diseased site, resulting in a "pus overflow" phenomenon, which is one of the main bases for identifying bacterial diseases. Common bacterial diseases include iris bacterial soft rot, etc. Viruses Viruses are extremely tiny parasites. An electron microscope is required to observe their morphology. They parasitize in the living cell tissues of flowers and can spread to the whole plant as the host sap flows in the flower body, causing diseases of the whole plant. Viral diseases often present symptoms such as mosaic, yellowing, deformity, and ring spots. Common viral diseases include narcissus virus disease, etc. Nematodes Nematodes belong to a class of lower animals. Nematodes are slender with slightly pointed ends. They are generally 1-2 mm long and resemble roundworms. Some female adults are spherical or pear-shaped. They live mostly in the soil and parasitize on the roots of flowers, stimulating the proliferation of local host cells and forming tumors. Common nematode diseases include cyclamen root-knot nematode disease.
Maintenance Tips:
Postpartum treatment of camellia:
Camellia has a beautiful crown, bright green leaves, large and colorful flowers, and a long flowering period. It blooms on New Year's Day and the Spring Festival. Potted plants decorate guest rooms, study rooms and balconies, presenting an elegant and luxurious atmosphere. Planted in the courtyard, accompanied by flower walls and rocks in front of the pavilion, the scenery is naturally pleasant. During storage and transportation, high temperatures and dry air should be prevented, otherwise the buds and flowers will easily fall off, affecting the quality.
Key points:
Camellia is a plant that is easy to see in general gardens. Since the dark green leaves are also very beautiful, you can also use only the leaves as a foil for other flowers. But the flowers are easy to wither, which is its disadvantage. You can often see flower beds or potted plants full of primroses. Don't water too much. Be careful not to let the roots rot.
Garden Use
Camellia is a traditional garden flower and tree. According to historical records, there is an old camellia tree in Taihua Temple in the suburbs of Kunming, Yunnan Province, which is said to be planted by Emperor Jianwen in the early Ming Dynasty. There is a red camellia in Camellia Temple in the eastern suburbs of Kunming, which is a relic of the Song Dynasty and is 20 meters high. During the flowering season, the red flowers cover the tree, and the flowers are as big as the tree, like a peony. Camellia has lush branches and leaves and is evergreen all year round. It blooms in late winter and early spring when all flowers wither, which is particularly rare. Throughout the ages, many poets have written poems praising camellia. Mr. Guo Moruo once used the poem "A camellia tree is early peach red, and white flowers are like red clouds" to praise the blooming of camellia. Camellia is shade-tolerant and grows best when placed on the edge of a sparse forest. Planting it next to a rockery can create a small rock scene. Three or five plants scattered near a pavilion are particularly elegant. If a camellia garden is built, it will be gorgeous when in bloom. In a courtyard, a few plants can be scattered in a corner of the wall, which is natural and unrestrained. If azaleas and magnolias are selected for arrangement, the flowers will be red and colorful when in bloom. Forest parks can also plant some healthy varieties scattered or in groups along the roadside of the forest edge, which can add a lot of color to the forest when in bloom. Camellia is suitable for potted viewing. It can achieve good results when placed in the entrance hall, meeting room, and public places. Planting it on the balcony or window of the family shows the spring.
Phalaenopsis
Prefers a high humidity and ventilated environment. The air moisture content is usually 60% to 80%, preferably with a breeze. Do not allow too much water to accumulate in the pot. Ventilation is the key to growing a good Phalaenopsis. The material needs to be loose and breathable for strong root growth. Avoid dry hot winds.
Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will be burned. It is also intolerant of excessive shade indoors, which will slow down growth and be detrimental to nutrient storage and flowering. Place it on a north-facing or east-facing balcony or window sill to receive scattered light, so that it will grow healthily and have fewer diseases.
In summer, the temperature is high and the material can be kept moist. Spraying water can be used to cool down and increase humidity (water should not be left in the heart of the leaves, which is easy to rot). A wet towel can also be used next to the flower pot to increase humidity. The roots cannot be too wet for a long time. For example, the amount of watering in summer should be enough to dry naturally on the same day. Intermittent drying and wetting can reduce the occurrence of root rot and diseases. In winter, water less and only keep the material slightly moist.
Apply thin fertilizer frequently, and avoid using too concentrated fertilizer. The concentration should be diluted by about 1 times the nominal concentration indicated. That is, about 1500-2000 times. Special fertilizer for Phalaenopsis can also be used. Nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are applied during the growth period, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied during the flowering period. Apply once a week or half a month. No fertilizer is applied during the flowering period and dormancy period, but attention should be paid to appropriate fertilizer supplementation in the early and late flowering periods
. The flowering of Phalaenopsis is mainly affected by temperature. Flower bud differentiation requires low temperature stimulation. After one month of stimulation at a low temperature of 20-23 degrees during the day and below 18 degrees at night (but not below 15 degrees for a long time), the latent buds in the stems can be transformed into flower buds. After that, when the flower buds break through the epidermis and grow into pedicels, they need a higher temperature, and the normal growth temperature is appropriate. Continuous low temperature will cause the pedicels to grow slowly, the flowers to be small or even wilt halfway. Properly increasing the sunshine during the flowering period will help the flowers to be large and colorful and bloom earlier.
Disease prevention: Phalaenopsis grows in a high temperature and high humidity environment. It is easy to be attacked by pathogens and once the disease spreads rapidly, prevention is the main focus. Common viral diseases include leaf spot and root rot anthracnose. Usually, the pesticide chlorothalonil (this drug has a good preventive effect and low resistance to pathogens, but it has no therapeutic effect on sick plants. Guanjunqing has better efficacy with its upgraded product Daconin preparation) or methyl thiophanate (this drug can prevent and treat, but the bacteria are prone to resistance and cannot be used alone for a long time) 1000-1500 times for prevention and control, spray once every seven or eight days, and spray three times in a row. These liquids leave white marks on the leaves, which do not need to be wiped off to facilitate the continued bactericidal effect. Among
the above similar products, the suspension preparation is better than the powder preparation and has a longer lasting effect. In terms of operation, the toxicity to human body is lower.
Segmented cultivation:
Phalaenopsis is divided into 5 growth stages from bottle seedlings to flowering and selling: bottle seedlings, small seedlings, medium seedlings, large seedlings, and flowering stages. The key points of cultivation management are as follows.
1. Preliminary management. During the bottle seedling growth stage, the most suitable growth temperature is 25℃-28℃ during the day and 18-20℃ at night. The suitable temperature for growth in the seedling stage is 23℃. Above 35℃ or below 10℃, growth stops. The temperature of the seedlings just out of the bottle should be lower than 20℃, the relative humidity of the air should be maintained at 70-80%, and the light should be controlled below 1000 lux. After a transition period, the light gradually increases to 10,000 lux, and finally reaches 15,000 lux.
Fertilizer and water management during the seedling growth stage plays a pivotal role. It is not suitable to fertilize or water the tissue culture seedlings within 3-5 days after they are out of the bottle, but they need to be sterilized immediately. You can use 1000 times of carbendazim solution for leaf sterilization, spray rooting powder every other day, and spray 3 times. After a transition period of 3-5 days, the first fertilization is carried out by spraying 1800 times of Huaduoduo No. 10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratio is 30:10:10), with the sphagnum moss being fully wet as the standard. One day later, spray foliar fertilizer with 2500 times of Huaduoduo No. 10 (30:10:10). One week later, the second fertilization is carried out according to the dryness and wetness of the seedlings. At this time, the fertilization principle is high nitrogen, low phosphorus, and low potassium.
After 4 months of cultivation, the seedlings grow into medium seedlings, and the pots should be changed at this time. The tightness of the water grass is based on the tightness of the muscles under the palm of the hand when the fist is naturally clenched. The tightness can be large or small, but the standard must be unified. The management of the medium seedling period is basically similar to that of the seedling stage, but the light can be increased to 20,000 lux. Fertilization is alternately used with Huaduoduo No. 8 and No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratios are 20:10:20 and 20:20:20, respectively). During the seedling period, attention should be paid to the direction and growth of the new leaves. Generally, they are placed in an east-west direction, and the leaves are reversed regularly. At this time, the principle of fertilization is low nitrogen, high phosphorus, and high potassium.
After 4-6 months of cultivation, the seedlings enter the large seedling stage. The management method is the same as that of the seedlings, but the fertilizer is No. 1 Huaduoduo (the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is 20:20:20).
2. Late management. The flowering period is the management of the late growth period. The flowering of Phalaenopsis is promoted by low temperature, so in addition to being meticulous in management, the temperature should also be controlled. First, keep the temperature above 20℃ for 2 months, and then reduce the night temperature to below 18℃. Flower buds will form after 45 days. After the flower buds are formed, the night temperature is kept at 18-20℃ and the daytime temperature is kept at 25-28℃. It can bloom after 3-4 months. The temperature during the flowering period is slightly lower, but not lower than 15℃. After the flower buds are stretched out, the pillars must be erected, that is, the pillars are erected before the flower stems stretch and have not yet fallen, and the flower stems are tied to the pillars, leaving space for the flower stems to elongate and thicken.
Water and fertilizer management is particularly important during the flowering period. Watering should be carried out at 10 am to avoid sprinkling water directly on the flowers. After watering, use an exhaust fan to ventilate, keep the air in the shed fresh, and dissipate the residual water as soon as possible. At this time, it is best to apply 1000 times of Huaduoduo No. 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratios are 10:30:20), depending on the condition of the Phalaenopsis itself.
Phalaenopsis is susceptible to soft rot and gray spot. Soft rot is extremely contagious. Once discovered, the diseased plants should be isolated immediately. Diseased plants can be controlled with manganese zinc or good living things. Usually sterilized once every 15 days.
Maintenance:
1. Cultivation medium: The common cultivation medium for Phalaenopsis is mainly water plants and mosses.
2. Temperature: The first thing to do when raising Phalaenopsis at home is to ensure the temperature. Phalaenopsis likes a high temperature and high humidity environment. The minimum temperature during the growth period should be kept above 15°C. The suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16°C to 30°C. At the turn of autumn and winter and winter and spring and when the temperature is low in winter, attention should be paid to warming up. Generally, this temperature is not difficult to reach in rooms with heating equipment in winter, but be careful not to place the flowers directly on the radiator or too close to it. When the temperature is high in summer, it is necessary to cool down and pay attention to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32℃, Phalaenopsis will usually enter a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperature should be avoided. The flowering period is around the Spring Festival. Appropriate cooling can extend the viewing time. When flowering, the night temperature is best controlled between 13℃ and 16℃, but not lower than 13℃.
3. Watering: Phalaenopsis is native to the primeval forest, where there is more fog and higher temperature. Phalaenopsis does not have thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients. If the temperature in the air is insufficient, the leaves will be wrinkled and weak. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and maintained in a ventilated and humid environment. The air humidity suitable for the growth of Phalaenopsis is 60-0%. Phalaenopsis should be watered more during the vigorous period of new root elongation, and less watering during the dormant period after flowering. Water once around 5 pm every day in spring and autumn. In summer, the plants grow vigorously, so water them once at 9 am and 5 pm every day. In winter, the light is weak and the temperature is low, so watering once every two weeks is enough, preferably before 10 am. In case of a cold wave, it is not suitable to water, keep it dry, and resume watering after the cold wave. The principle of watering is to see dry and wet. When the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water it thoroughly again, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, you can use a sprayer to spray directly on the leaves, and it is ok to see the leaves are wet, but be careful not to spray the water mist on the flowers during the flowering period. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before watering.
4. Light: Although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, it is still necessary to allow the orchid to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Appropriate light can promote the flowering of Phalaenopsis, making the flowers blooming bright and lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a place with scattered light indoors, and do not let direct sunlight.
5. Ventilation: Phalaenopsis requires fresh air to flow for normal growth, so the ventilation of domestic Phalaenopsis must be good, especially in the high humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heatstroke and avoid infection by pests and diseases.
6. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized throughout the year, and fertilizer should not be stopped unless the low temperature lasts for a long time. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period of Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilizer can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. During the spring and summer, it is the growth period. Thin liquid fertilizer can be applied every 7 to 10 days. Organic fertilizer is suitable. Phalaenopsis special nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply when there are flower buds, otherwise it is easy to fall buds early. In summer, when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied. Phalaenopsis fertilizer can be used during the growth period of flower stems in autumn and winter, but it should be thin and applied about every 2 to 3 weeks. The time for fertilization is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, rinse the orchid pot and orchid plant with a lot of water to prevent residual inorganic salts from harming the roots.
7. Management after flowering: The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last up to 2 to 3 months. When the flowers wither, the withered flowers must be cut off as soon as possible to reduce the consumption of nutrients. If the flower stems are cut off from the 4th to 5th nodes at the base, they can bloom again after 2 to 3 months. However, this will consume too much nutrients for the plant, which is not conducive to its growth next year. If you want to bloom well again next year, it is best to cut the flower stems from the base. When the substrate is aged, it should be replaced in time, otherwise the air permeability will deteriorate, which will cause root rot, weaken the growth of the plant and even die. It is generally advisable to change the pot in May when the new leaves grow out.
Matters needing attention:
1. Watering too frequently: Friends who cultivate Phalaenopsis are always worried about the lack of water in Phalaenopsis. Regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry, they water every day, causing serious root rot.
2. The temperature is too low: Phalaenopsis flowering plants are usually listed in early spring, and after buying them home, they are generally placed in the living room and other places for appreciation. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the night temperature is slightly low. On the other hand, most professionally cultivated orchids are grown in well-equipped greenhouses. In comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are slightly insufficient, which often weakens the growth of the plants. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well the orchids are maintained, they still do not bloom.
3. Excessive fertilization: Apply fertilizer whenever there is one, and do not pay attention to the concentration, thinking that fertilization will make them grow faster. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis should be fertilized with thin fertilizers in small amounts and multiple times. Remember not to overdo the "tonic", otherwise it will be counterproductive.
4. Plant small plants in large pots: It is believed that using large pots can provide Phalaenopsis with a relaxed environment and sufficient materials. In fact, after using large pots, the water plants are not easy to dry. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, and ventilation is comfortable.
5. Flower dry bags: Most of the current Phalaenopsis orchids are forced to bloom. After leaving the base, the problem of dry bags is easy to occur after the environment changes. At this time, do not think that it is dry, do not water too much, but increase the indoor humidity and control the indoor temperature. The temperature should not be too high. Try to choose flowers with thick petals when buying flowers.
Cut flower cultivation technology
1. Introduction to Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis is native to all tropical regions of Asia. In the wild, its daytime growth temperature is 28-35℃ and the nighttime temperature is 20-24℃. It prefers high relative humidity and shade. This crop absorbs nutrients through roots and leaves. The root system is also used to fix the plant.
2. Anthura's breeding program
Anthura has a professional breeding team, and the breeding goals are divided into potted flowers and cut flowers. This company is also the only company that lists cut flowers as a breeding program. The genetic characteristics of the father and mother require dominant differences to ensure that their offspring have stable inheritance, so that they can become a new variety. Its seed sources come from varieties that have been preserved since 40 years ago, as well as new strains purchased from Asia. The breeding of new varieties includes hybrid breeding, selection, and replication and mass production. It takes 7 to 9 years to breed a new variety. It takes 6 months from mating to the formation of fruit pods, and 1 year from seed sowing to seedlings. It takes 1.5 years from seedlings to flowering. It takes 2 years to make tissue culture seedlings from one peduncle, and 1.5 years from seedling to flowering, so 6.5 years have passed. And it is only at this stage that the seedlings are replicated in large quantities.
Anthura Phalaenopsis breeding program has two major directions: cut flowers and potted flowers. The breeding program includes flower shape and color. For cut flowers, the most important breeding criteria include the number of peduncles produced, color, the proportion of the best quality, the fewer branches the better, the thickness and strength of the peduncles, the development of the peduncles and flowers, flower shape, leaf sequence, the developmental traits of the plant, post-harvest storage and transportation characteristics and vase life. Post-harvest characteristics are most related to genetics. The viewing period can vary from 5 days to 6 weeks. In addition to the above main breeding criteria, other secondary selection criteria are also used to evaluate varieties, such as the loss rate and disease resistance during the orchid production process.
3. Seedling characteristics
Anthura provides tissue culture seedlings and seedlings in trays. Tissue culture seedlings need to be specially ordered. There are two benefits for customers to use seedlings in trays: reducing the loss of seedlings during the acclimatization period and reducing the cultivation period by 5 to 7 months. Each tray contains 40 seedlings, which can be transplanted immediately when delivered to the customer's greenhouse.
The leaf width of the seedlings in the rectangular tray is 10-14 cm, and usually has 2-3 well-grown leaves. The seedlings must be graded before being transplanted into the 12 cm soft pot. Anthura does not perform this grading work for customers. Usually, the grower divides the seedlings in the rectangular tray into large and small grades, and then transplants them to different planting beds. The cultivation period of small seedlings is 3-4 months longer than that of large seedlings. The work of
transplanting seedlings into 12 cm soft pots is still mainly manpower. The seedlings should be kept vertical, placed in the center of the soft pot and planted at the correct height. If the plant growth point is too deep, it is easy to be infected with diseases. If the transplant depth is too shallow, it will not be well supported. The arrangement of the soft pot after transplantation is very important. When the leaves of the orchids begin to block the sunlight after they grow, the pots must be thinned out and the distance between the soft pots must be increased.
IV. Cultivation Plan
The cultivation area of Phalaenopsis cut flowers is divided into two stages:
1. Growth stage: from seedlings to mature plants.
2. Flowering stage: flowering and cut flowers for sale.
(I) Growth stage
When the cultivation begins, smaller varieties or seedlings with smaller grades should be cultivated in another planting bed. Large varieties and larger grades can be placed in a square arrangement, but the pots should be thinned out before the leaves begin to touch to avoid growing thin and long leaves. In Europe, the planting bed area required for the growth stage is about 10% of the total cultivation area.
(II) Flowering stage
Economic cost calculation, there is a 5-year flowering period
After the plant has developed 4~5 leaves, it is re-transplanted in a 15~17cm pot, and the distance between the pots can be fixed at this time. The distance between varieties with larger leaves should be increased. When the orchid has grown to a sufficient size and the root system is well developed, this orchid can be used as a flowering plant.
There are about 20 plants per square meter on average, and it takes 5 years from flowering to commercial production. If the seedlings are too small or the root system is poorly developed, the pedicels are smaller and the flowers are smaller. The potting time is not long, and the time until the next stem is longer.
Phalaenopsis should be cultivated in transparent pots. Transparent pots ensure that they grow more vigorously and have better root quality. The pots are placed on the planting bed and ventilation should be good. The width of the movable planting bed should be less than 1.6 meters and the height should be appropriate, so that the cutting work is easy.
5. Medium
The selection of medium is based on the following criteria: large particles are used for drainage, and fine particles (non-dust particles) are used to retain and distribute water and nutrients. If the medium contains too much fine dust, it is easy to form a hard layer structure at the bottom of the pot. The medium used in the Netherlands is bark with a length of 12-16mm and a water grass with a quantity of 2-3kg/. For large containers such as 14~24cm pots, it is suitable to use coarser bark (14~24mm), but it should be mixed with sticky particles or lava medium (lava). In a 17 cm pot, adding appropriate water plants (2-3 kg/m) can make the water in the medium evenly distributed. This is especially important in the first year of cultivation. Within a year, the water plants will rot, but the roots will be effectively distributed in the pot.
In addition to the medium, the drainage performance of the pot is also important. After irrigation, the bottom of the pot should not be waterlogged for too long. Transparent pots can keep the roots in the pot and the roots will turn green. If the roots only go down without entanglement, the root fixation is not correct. After irrigation, it takes longer for water and fertilizer to be absorbed, and the quality of the future flower stalks will become worse. Using transparent pots can check whether the roots are still active and evenly distributed.
Keep the medium moist for the first month after transplanting. The top should not be too dry. If the water content of the medium changes too drastically in the first week, it will be difficult to remedy it in the later cultivation period. However, too wet a medium can also cause problems.
6. Irrigation system
The available irrigation methods are: 1. Use drip irrigation pipes, 2. Use fixed nozzles to irrigate from top to bottom, 3. Use manpower, 4. Combine the above methods.
Phalaenopsis leaves can easily absorb urea and other fertilizers from the leaf surface when fertilizing the leaves. Porous media are very important for roots, and although there is a negative capillary effect, it has more advantages. In the early stages of growth, it is very useful to irrigate crops using sprinklers or irrigation arms. In the flowering stage, in order to avoid gray mold on the petals caused by watering, it is better to use drip irrigation pipes. When there are many flowers on the pedicel, watering from above can easily cause the pedicel to break.
Irrigation water must not contain chemical components and visible microorganisms. The sodium and chloride ions contained in the water must not exceed 100 mg/l, and the bicarbonate must not be excessive. If there is no good water source, reverse osmosis treated water must be used. The amount of water for watering is related to the climate, medium and plant age. In the environment of Western Europe, the amount of irrigation water is approximately as follows: once every 7 to 10 days in winter and once every 5 to 7 days in summer. During the growing period, the water temperature needs to be 18~20℃ to avoid root loss.
During the growing period and the first month after moving to the large pot, water must be applied from above. In addition to ensuring that the medium is sufficiently moist, it can also prevent the top layer of the medium from becoming salinized. After the roots are fully developed, a drip irrigation system can be used instead. Water should be supplied from above at least once a year to rinse the medium.
7. Fertilizer
Phalaenopsis can be fertilized with compound fertilizers or direct nitrogen fertilizers (Ammonium nitrate fertilizers). Fertilizer application varies depending on the variety. If basal fertilizer is used, it must contain a mixture of Dolokal (L3-4 kg /) and PG, with a pH range of 5.2~6.2 and an EC range of 0.8~1.2mS /cm. Too high a nitrogen fertilizer will cause excessive leaf growth. If the EC value is too high, the roots will die. If it is too low, the plant lacks trace elements. The best way to measure EC is to collect the water discharged from the bottom after irrigation. More than 1.5mS /cm means that the medium in this pot has become salinized. Usually, red spots will form on the roots, which need to be rinsed with clean water or low EC water.
Phalaenopsis should be fertilized throughout the year, and fertilization should not be stopped unless the low temperature lasts for a long time. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period of Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilization can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growing seasons, and thin liquid fertilizers can be applied every 7 to 10 days. Organic fertilizers are preferred, and special nutrient solutions for Phalaenopsis can also be applied, but do not apply when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds will fall early. In summer, when leaves grow (i.e. after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizers and potassium fertilizers can be applied. In autumn and winter, when the flower stems grow, phosphorus fertilizers can be used, but they should be thin and applied about every 2 to 3 weeks. The time for fertilization is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, the orchid pot and orchid plant should be rinsed with plenty of water to prevent residual inorganic salts from harming the roots.
8. Flowering stage
When the plant has 5 mature leaves, it can be induced to flower. When the plant is mature enough and has gone through a transition period, the pedicel will naturally emerge. The flowers can be sold in February or March of the following year after natural flowering in the fall. The flowering period can be controlled by adjusting the temperature and light. When all the buds on the pedicel have opened except the last one, they can be cut and sold. When the pedicel is cut, it usually has three flower buds. The second pedicel is drawn from the remaining flower buds and starts from the top bud. However, it takes longer to force the new pedicel to bloom, so whether to use this method of natural flowering first and then drawing the second pedicel depends on the required pedicel quality and sales plan. In addition to the first pedicel, as long as the plant is healthy, a double pedicel can be produced for the second time and can be sold as cut flowers. Therefore, an average of 2.5 pedicels can be sold each year. After the pedicel is drawn, it is kept straight with a rope to prevent it from bending.
IX. Immature flower plants
During the growth period, immature pedicels that are drawn need to be removed quickly. They can be removed manually before they become hard. If the pedicel is hard, it must be cut with tools. Before the removal or cutting operation, hands and tools must be disinfected to avoid spreading diseases. Maintaining a temperature of 27°C during the growth period can avoid this premature flowering phenomenon.
X. Cultivation Environment
(I) Temperature
Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15 and 34°C. The appropriate temperature is as follows: 26 to 27°C during the growth stage, 19 to 21°C during the flowering stage, and in order to obtain more peduncles, the temperature can be maintained at 18 to 20°C for a total of 4 to 8 weeks. When there is insufficient light or the daytime temperature is too high, it should be maintained at 18°C to strengthen the flowering (inducing flower buds). Because the leaf growth must also be maintained during the flowering period, the low temperature period should not be too long. When there is insufficient light, if the temperature is greater than 23°C for more than 24 hours, it will cause excessive vegetative growth and loss of flower buds.
(II) Light
1. In the Netherlands region
In order to obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light needs to be provided. Excessive light will cause burn marks on the leaves. Too low light (less than 100W/m2) will cause plant growth stagnation, poor quality, improper flower bud development and poor root development. The appropriate amount of light is 200 2. In the summer with strong sunlight (1400 W/m2), a shade net of 80~85% should be used.
2. In tropical areas
, it is necessary to maintain a shading capacity of 80~90%. Usually, a fixed net with a shade of 65% and another set of movable nets with a shade of 65% are used. In areas with heavy rain, a plastic sheet roof should be used to reduce diseases and reduce the leaching of rainwater to the medium. (Note: This section is aimed at simple rain shelter facilities in Indonesia and other places, and does not discuss subtropical greenhouses)
The appropriate amount of light is as follows:
1. Growth stage: 5000~8000lux
2. Flowering stage: 8000~15000lux
In areas with common sunlight all year round, the light demand can be increased by 20%. However, attention should be paid to the refraction ability of light so that the leaves of the orchid plants receive uniform light. When the light amount is high, a high relative humidity should be maintained.
(III) Artificial supplementary lighting
Artificial supplementary lighting is beneficial to leaf temperature, microclimate, and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant loss. Its characteristics are as follows:
1. Growth of seedlings in plug trays: promote rapid growth and reduce orchid plant loss
2. Growth stage: promote rapid growth and better development
3. Flowering stage: help the development of pedicels and flower buds, reduce flower bud loss, and increase quality.
In winter, Phalaenopsis requires at least 12 to 14 hours of light, 3500 to 4000 lux, so it is suitable to use artificial light. Using excessive light in sunny weather will cause the leaves to turn red, thus causing growth stagnation. In addition, the orchid plant maintains a dark period of at least 8 hours to ensure that it can absorb carbon dioxide.
(IV) Carbon dioxide concentration
Phalaenopsis is a Crassulacean acid metabolizing plant that absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600 to 800 ppm.
(V) Relative humidity
Phalaenopsis can protect itself from stress in low humidity due to its physiological structure, but in a too humid environment, high temperature and high humidity are often accompanied by diseases. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60-80%RH. In high temperature and low humidity environments, relative humidity needs to be increased. Applicable equipment systems include using high-pressure spray equipment above the greenhouse to increase fog particles, sprinkling water under the planting bed, using water walls and fans, etc. However, it is necessary to avoid making the crops wet. Another additional benefit of humidification is to reduce the temperature.
(VI) Other information
When crops grow in an environment with high relative humidity, the daytime temperature and sunshine can be increased to maintain a constant temperature inside the greenhouse and maintain good air circulation. Therefore, the height of the greenhouse is preferably 3-4 meters higher than the plants.
In order to be able to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, it is very important to measure and record the microclimate. For example, the amount of light, temperature and relative humidity must be measured and recorded. The measurement operation can use a microcomputer or a handheld sensor, and the daily maximum/minimum values must be measured.
XI. Pest and disease management
Proper sanitation and weekly removal of infected plants can prevent the spread of most diseases. Bacterial infection is mainly caused by water droplets splashing on the plant body or being affected during the transportation process. This disease cannot be controlled by chemical agents. The various diseases and their transmission methods are as follows:
1. Bacterial diseases
Bacterial brown spot is the most serious disease of Phalaenopsis. The symptoms are brown spots on the leaves. They are oily or heart-shaped, surrounded by yellow shapes. Treatment methods include adjusting the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer solution, removing diseased plants and maintaining a stable relative humidity. Chemical agents have no effect on this disease. Use healthy plants in good growth conditions to avoid this bacterial problem.
2. Molds
Large changes in moisture in the medium or unsuitable EC values cause root damage, thus prompting mold to attack the tissue. The method of treatment is to reduce the EC value of irrigation water and temporarily reduce the moisture content of the medium.
3. Gray mold
Another disease caused by mold is gray mold on the petals, which forms many small spots on the flowers. The reason for this is that the plant is kept wet for too long or the relative humidity is too high.
4. Fusarium
Fusarium causes black triangular spots that form yellow or dark red at the base of the leaves. The leaves will fall off quickly. This disease is more likely to occur when the roots are in stagnant water.
(ii) Viruses
: Symptoms of Phalaenopsis orchids infected by viruses are smaller flowers and slower growth. However, the growth characteristics of some varieties are not affected by virus infection. Virus symptoms are more obvious during the low temperature flowering stage. The biggest impact of viruses on Phalaenopsis is the growth rate.
(iii) Insects and small animals
1. Slugs and snails:
Slugs and snails bite small holes in young plants and can harm many plants in just a few days. They also bite the root tips. Using pesticides can effectively control these small animals.
2. Thrips:
Red spider mites cause slight deformation and severe color changes in the leaves. Because they are distributed in a concentrated state, they can be controlled with pesticides.
3. Thrips: Brown thrips can usually be found in every part and appear in groups. Chemicals are difficult to eradicate. Removing the diseased plants is the best solution.
4. Sciaridae, fungus gnats: This insect attacks the root tips. Applying predatory mite (Hypoaspis predatory mite, 100-150/2) and hanging yellow sticky insect boards can prevent infection.
(IV) Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment
1. Flower buds falling off
At the stage of flowering completion, if the light is too strong and the temperature is too high, it is easy to cause the flower buds to fall off the pedicels. Poor root quality can also cause this phenomenon. Flowers and plants that have not undergone an adaptation phase before transportation will also have buds falling off.
2. Chilling damage during transportation:
When the plants are transported from the growing area to the sales area, orange-red spots may appear on the leaves, usually due to cell death caused by chilling damage. Other environmental stresses or excessive light can also cause it.
(V) Phytophthora damage: due to the use of inappropriate chemical agents.
Red-red Phalaenopsis
Family: Orchidaceae, Phalaenopsis
Approval number: Yue Shenhua 2007003
Breeding unit: Flower Research Institute of Guangdong Academy of Agricultural Sciences
Variety source: Princess Minghe (Doritaenopsis Minho Princess)
Characteristics: It is a medium-flowered multi-flowered variety. The traits are stable and consistent. The plant has good growth potential, light green leaves, broad and upright leaves. The pedicels of the 18-month-old flowering plants are thick, with an average scape length of 50.9 cm, an average number of branches of 1.7, up to 4, an average number of main branches of 10 flowers, and a total number of flowers of more than 25. The flowers are bright in color, round in shape, and 8.3 cm in diameter. The sepals have pink reticulations, the petals have red reticulations, and there are obvious white spots near the column. The two petals are brighter and darker than the sepals, with a clear contrast. The lip is deep purple-red. It has strong heat resistance. It is an early flowering type, starting to bloom in mid-December, easy to bloom, and the flowering period is about 3 months.
Key points of cultivation technology: ⑴ Apply thin fertilizer once every 7 to 10 days to the seedlings, apply 3500 times of water-soluble compound fertilizer with N:P:K=20:20:20, and the interval between fertilization is 7 to 15 days. The time can be slightly longer in winter, and 3000 times of the above water-soluble compound fertilizer can be applied; ⑵ After four months of growth in 2.5-inch pots, they can be replaced with 3.5-inch pots. It is better to use 2500 times of the above water-soluble fertilizer, and fertilize once every 7 to 10 days; ⑶ Apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers 2 to 3 months before going up the mountain; ⑷ Cool down the water curtain fan in the greenhouse or greenhouse in summer and autumn to promote flower bud differentiation; ⑸ Gray mold of petals is prone to occur in the rainy season, and prevention and treatment should be paid attention to.
Approval opinion: Hongxia Phalaenopsis is a medium-flowered multi-flower variety. The plant has good growth potential, with an average of 10 flowers on the main branches and a total of more than 25 flowers. It has strong heat resistance. It is suitable for planting in greenhouses or sheds with heating and cooling equipment and facilities in our province. It meets the Guangdong Province crop variety approval standards and has been approved
.
Alias: Pearl orchid, rice orchid, tree
orchid Family: Meliaceae, Aglaia
Origin and distribution: Originated from southern Asia. Widely planted in tropical areas of the world. Distributed in Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi, Sichuan, Yunnan. Also grown in pots in the north.
Morphological characteristics:
Evergreen shrub or small tree. Many branches. The top of the young branches has star-shaped rusty scales, which fall off later. Odd-pinnate compound leaves, alternate, with narrow wings on the rachis, 3-5 leaflets, opposite, obovate to oblong, obtuse at the apex, cuneate at the base, glabrous on both sides, entire margin, and obvious veins. Axillary panicles. Flowers are yellow and very fragrant. The calyx has 5 lobes, and the lobes are round. The corolla has 5 petals, oblong or nearly round, longer than the calyx. The stamen filaments are combined into a tube, which is shorter than the petals. The pistil ovary is ovate and densely covered with yellow coarse hairs. The berries are ovate or spherical with star-shaped scales. The seeds have fleshy aril. The flowering period is July-August, or flowering in all seasons. It
is an evergreen shrub or small tree of the Meliaceae family, and a small-leaf variant of the large-leaf Milan. The branches are numerous and dense; the pinnate leaves are alternate, with 3 to 5 shiny leaflets; the flowers are small like corn, golden yellow, polygamous and dioecious, with axillary panicles; flowers bloom on new shoots, with the peak flowering period being summer and autumn; when they bloom, the fragrance is overflowing, and the smell is like orchids.
Habit characteristics:
It likes warm, humid and sunny environment, is not cold-resistant, and slightly shade-tolerant. The best soil is loose, fertile, slightly acidic soil. The winter temperature should not be lower than 10℃.
Milan likes warmth, sunshine, and fertilizer. The suitable temperature for growth is 20℃～25℃. Under normal circumstances, there is sufficient sunlight and high temperature (about 30℃), and the flowers that bloom have strong fragrance. If it is placed in a shaded place in summer and a large amount of nitrogen fertilizer is applied at the same time, it is a major reason for Milan not blooming or blooming less and having a light fragrance. Therefore, during the growth and development period, Milan needs to be placed in a sunny place outdoors for maintenance, and attention should be paid to applying more liquid fertilizer containing more phosphorus. It is best to apply alum fertilizer water soaked in crushed bones, fish bones, chicken bones, etc., and often apply some fertilizers containing more phosphorus or fermented rice water, which are all helpful for bud formation, and bloom more, golden color, and fragrant smell.
Milan likes moisture, and watering should be appropriate during the growth period. If you water too much, it is easy to cause root rot, yellow and withered leaves; if you water too much during the flowering period, it is easy to cause flowers and buds to fall off; if you water too little, it will cause the edges of the leaves to dry up and the buds to wither. Therefore, when the temperature is high in summer, in addition to watering 1 to 2 times a day, you should also frequently spray the branches and leaves with clean water and sprinkle water on the ground to increase the air humidity. At the same time, fertilization should also be appropriate. Since Milan blooms many times a year, after each bloom, you should apply 2 to 3 times of fully decomposed thin liquid fertilizer in time, so that it can bloom continuously and have a strong fragrance. Milan likes acidic soil, and potted plants should use culture soil mainly composed of leaf mold. During the vigorous growth period, spray 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution once a week, then the leaves will be green and the flowers will be abundant.
Propagation techniques:
Propagation is done by cuttings, high-branch layering or sowing. It likes warmth and plenty of sunlight.
Layering and cuttings are commonly used for propagation. Layering, mainly high-altitude layering, select one-year-old lignified branches in the rainy season, make a 1 cm wide ring peeling at 20 cm from the base, apply moss or peat to the ring peeling part, and then tie it up and down with a film. It will take root in 2-3 months. Cuttings, cut the top tender branches about 10 cm in June-August, insert them into peat, and they will start to take root after 2 months.
Cultivation and management
Pay attention to shade for potted Milan seedlings, and avoid strong sunlight exposure. After the seedlings grow new leaves, fertilize once every 2 weeks, but the amount of watering must be controlled and should not be too wet. In addition to shading at noon in midsummer, it should be exposed to sunlight more often, so that Milan will not only bloom more times, but also have a strong fragrance. In the north of the Yangtze River, it must be moved indoors for maintenance in winter.
Use loose, well-drained and breathable soil for potted plants. Repot once every 1 to 2 years, and fertilize once every 1 to 2 weeks during the growth period. It is mostly planted in gardens in the south; potted plants in the north should be placed outdoors in places where they can be directly exposed to sunlight in spring, summer and autumn. Move indoors to a place with direct sunlight in winter, and the overwintering temperature should be above 10℃.
Pest and disease control
1. For aphids, spray the plants with cigarette butts or chili water. You can also spray with 800 times dilution of aphidicide. If the amount is small, you can use a small brush to brush it off manually. For
other control methods, refer to roses. 2. For scale insects, spray with 1500 times dilution of Jiesha. If the amount is small, you can use a brush to brush it off manually. For other control methods, refer to Clivia miniata.
3. For rainbow spiders, spray the plants with 1000 times dichlorvos or 2000 times dimethoate. For other control methods, refer to crabapples.
4. Sooty mold This disease is prone to occur in high temperature, high humidity and poor ventilation.
Control methods: Improve the environment, rinse the leaves and branches with water, or spray with 1000 times dilution of 70% methyl thiophanate. For other control methods, refer to roses.
Value and Use:
Milan is a favorite flower plant. It is fragrant when in bloom. As an edible flower, it can be used to extract essence.
Milan potted plants can be displayed in living rooms, study rooms and porches. They are fresh and elegant, soothing to the heart and body. Milan is also an excellent landscape tree in southern courtyards.
Milan flower language:
With love, life will bloom
Why is Milan difficult to raise?
Milan is produced in Fujian, Guangdong, Sichuan, Yunnan and Southeast Asia, and is a subtropical tree species. It likes a mild and humid climate. Because Milan is a southern plant, it is difficult to grow it indoors in Beijing, especially in the city. Careful maintenance is required. Your Milan has fallen leaves. Since I am not on site, the reasons may be many, such as soil pH, water pH, and fertilizer problems. Here are some technical points for growing Milan in the north: Milan is mostly planted with peat, rotten leaves and sandy soil in the north. Families can use (old) Clivia soil and plain sandy soil mixed in half to make culture soil. The pot should not be too large, and alkaline fertilizer should not be added to the soil. The bottom of the pot should be padded with a drainage layer. After the seedlings are planted, they are first placed under dense shade for maintenance. When the weather is dry, spray water on the leaves and the surrounding ground every day to keep the environment moist. After the new leaves grow out, move them to sparse shade, and gradually adapt to strong light, and the flowers will be more fragrant. For flower seedlings potted in spring, topdressing should be started around the beginning of autumn, preferably with thin organic liquid fertilizer. Starting from the second year, during the peak growth season, topdressing with organic liquid fertilizer should be done every 20 days. If it can be applied alternately with a mixed solution of 0.1% urea and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, the flowers and leaves will be more luxuriant. The potting soil should always be kept moist, and never leak water or cause drought, but it should not be wet for a long time. If placed indoors, ventilation should be strengthened, and it should be rotated outdoors every 15 days or so. It needs to see sufficient sunlight when moved indoors in winter, and the minimum room temperature should not be lower than 8℃. Control water and prohibit fertilizer, and pay attention to the opening and closing of doors and windows to avoid direct cold wind and smoke pollution. Prevent damage from scale insects and sooty mold. In North China, move it outdoors for maintenance after the dry wind from late April to early May. Milan can be repotted every two years. Milan should be pruned and shaped from a young age, retaining a main trunk of 15 to 20 cm in height. Do not let the main branches grow out of the soil, but prune the branches above the 15 cm high main trunk to make the plant fuller. The lower branches of perennial old plants often age and die. Therefore, it is advisable to prune short every other year in the hot season in the north to promote the germination of adventitious buds at the bottom of the main branches and grow new side branches, so as to keep the tree symmetrical, strong, lush and blooming
.
Peach alias: pink peach, thousand-leaf peach
Latin name: Prunus persica Batsch. var. duplex Rehd.
Family: Rosaceae, Prunus
Origin and distribution:
native to Northwest China, North China, East China, Southwest China, etc. Now it has been introduced and cultivated in various countries around the world.
Morphological characteristics:
Peach is a deciduous small tree, up to 8 meters high, usually controlled to 3-4 meters after shaping, with reddish brown twigs, hairless; leaves are elliptical lanceolate, 7-15 cm long, with gradually pointed tips. Flowers are solitary or two born in the axils of leaves, double petals, pink. Other variants include white, dark red, sprinkled gold (variegated colors), etc.
Reproduction and cultivation:
In order to maintain excellent quality, it must be propagated by grafting, and the rootstock is beech. Using summer bud grafting technology, the grafting survival rate can be as high as 90% or more. The specific operations are as follows:
1. Scion selection. The mother peach tree should be strong and free of pests and diseases, and the plants with excellent flowers and fruits should be selected as scions.
2. Grafting method. For summer bud grafting, buds can be cut, or buds with less wood can be peeled at the rootstock stem. Cut the scion of the mother tree, that is, cut off the leaves and leave the petiole. Use the tip of a knife to cut upwards 1 cm below the scion bud, 1.5-2 cm long, the inside of the bud should have a little wood, the bud is located in the middle of the graft bud. The stock can be selected as a pencil-thick seedling, the stem is 3-5 cm from the ground, and the vertical part of the north side of the trunk is selected. The first cut is slightly with wood and cut vertically for 2 cm. Cut off 1/2-2/3 of the bark that has been cut, insert the graft bud into the stock, and the formation layer is closely connected. Pay special attention to leaving no gaps at the bottom of the cut stock, and tightly combine. Wrap the plastic tape to the left for 2 circles and then to the right for 2 circles under the graft bud, and tie it up evenly to prevent the bud from drying out, firmly combine, and expose the graft bud. Pay attention to the time of bud grafting. It is best to do it in mid-June to mid-July in the south and mid-July to mid-August in the north.
3. Management after grafting. 10-15 days after bud grafting, the petiole turns yellow and falls off, which is a symbol of survival. If the petiole turns black, it means that it has not survived. When the surviving seedlings grow new shoots and heal completely, remove the plastic tape, cut the stock 1 cm above the budding point, and wipe off the stock after germination. At the same time, combine fertilization, generally apply compound fertilizer 1-2 times, to promote the lignification of the scion shoots and have cold resistance. To prevent and control aphids, spray 2000 times of dimethoate solution. When the leaves have leaf shrinkage disease, use lime sulfur mixture.
Ecological habits:
It likes light and is drought-resistant. It requires fertile soil with good drainage. During the growing period, it requires intensive management, fertilization, irrigation, weeding, and pest control. It is not as cold-resistant as peaches.
Garden use:
The peach blossoms are large and colorful, and are charming and beautiful. They are suitable for lakeside, stream, roadside and park layout. They are also suitable for small courtyard decoration and potted viewing. They are also often used for cut flowers and bonsai. The most common is the weeping peach
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Latin name: Sarcandra glabra (Thunb.) Nakai
Other names: Jiujie flower, Jiujie tea, Jiugulian, Zhonggufeng
Family name: Chloranthaceae, Sarcandra
Morphological characteristics:
Perennial evergreen herb or subshrub, plant height 50-120 cm, stem erect, green, glabrous, nodes swollen, internodes with obvious longitudinal ridges and grooves. Single leaves opposite, petiolate; leaf blade leathery, ovate oblong, 6-16 cm long, 3-7 cm wide; apex acuminate, base pointed or cuneate, margin with coarse serrations except near the base, with a gland at the end of the tooth; stipules sheath-like, with tiny protruding sharp teeth on both sides. Flowers small, yellow-green, unisexual, monosexual, male and female flowers fused in the axils of mutually very small bracts, forming a terminal short spike inflorescence; 1 stamen, connective swollen into an ovate, anther 2 chambers, born on the upper side of the connective; 1 ovary, ovate, stigma sessile. Berries drupe-like, spherical, bright red when ripe. Flowering period August-September, fruiting period October-November.
Growth habits:
Wild coral grass often grows in the shade and wet places under the evergreen broad-leaved forests on the hillsides and valleys at an altitude of 400-1500 meters. It is suitable for warm and humid climates, likes cool environments, and avoids strong direct sunlight and high temperature and dryness. It likes sandy loam with a deep humus layer, loose and fertile, slightly acidic, and avoids poor, hardened, and waterlogged heavy soil. Most of the coral grass has fibrous roots, which are often distributed in the topsoil layer and are easily uprooted when harvested. The roots have strong sprouting ability, and often branch out from the rhizomes near the ground, making the plants appear clump-like. Plants raised from seeds begin to bear fruit in the second year after planting.
Medicinal function:
The whole plant is pungent and bitter in taste and neutral in nature. It has the effects of antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, clearing away heat and detoxification, dispelling wind and dampness, promoting blood circulation and relieving pain, and promoting menstruation and bone setting. It is used to treat various inflammatory diseases, rheumatic joint pain, sores, swelling, injuries from falls, fractures, etc. In recent years, it has been used to treat pancreatic cancer, gastric cancer, rectal cancer, liver cancer, esophageal cancer, etc. with significant effects.
Domestic distribution:
Produced in Anhui, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Fujian, Taiwan, Guangdong, Guangxi, Hunan, Sichuan, Guizhou and Yunnan. Abroad, it is distributed in North Korea, Japan, Malaysia, the Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia, India and Sri Lanka.
Cultivation techniques
1. Growth environment
It is advisable to plant on the hillside fields, row fields, or sandy soil beside mountain streams and under the shade of valley trees with convenient water sources. Dig the land in autumn and winter, let it weather naturally, and prepare the land before planting in the next spring. It is better to choose a plot under the evergreen broad-leaved forest that is moist, has a deep soil layer and loose texture for the nursery. When preparing the land, apply 2,000 kg of farmyard soil and miscellaneous fertilizer per mu, plow the soil, harrow it finely and level it, and make high ridges with a width of 1 meter.
2. Reproduction method
(1) Cutting propagation In March or April, select 1-2 year old branches from healthy plants, cut them into 2-3 nodes, 10-15 cm long cuttings, bundle them into small bundles, and soak their bases in 0.05 ml/L No. 3 ABT rooting powder solution for 2-3 minutes, or dip them in 1 ml/L NAA solution before cutting. The rooting time of the treated cuttings is significantly shortened, and the survival rate is almost 100%. After the cuttings are treated, they are inserted obliquely into the soil on the prepared seedbed with a row spacing of 5 cm x 0 cm, leaving 1 node on the soil surface, pressing tightly, and watering thoroughly. If the seedbed is not closed, it is best to build a shade shed to keep the seedbed moist at all times. About 30 days after cutting, the cuttings will take root and begin to sprout. After survival, attention should be paid to loosening the soil and weeding, and dilute human and animal manure should be applied in time to promote the growth of seedlings. After 10-12 months of cultivation, they can be transplanted.
(2) Seed propagation: When the fruits are ripe and red from October to December, pick them and mix them with fine wet sand (seeds: wet sand = 1:2). Store them in a dry and ventilated place indoors, or put them in wooden boxes and store them in a ventilated place indoors. Take out the seeds and sow them in February or March of the following spring. Dig sowing furrows 2-3 cm deep with a row spacing of 20 cm on the prepared seedbed, sow the seeds evenly in the furrows, cover them with fire soil ash or fine soil until the seeds are invisible, cover the surface of the ridge with grass, and build a shade shed. Seedlings will emerge about 20 days after sowing, and the grass cover should be removed in time. During the seedling raising period, the soil should be loosened and weeded frequently, and topdressing should be done in time. If the seedlings are carefully managed during the seedling stage, they can be transplanted in November or December of the same year.
(3) Division propagation is carried out in early spring or late autumn. First, cut the above-ground part of the plant 10 cm above the ground for medicinal purposes or as cutting material, then dig up the root stock, divide it into small plants with roots according to the stems, and plant it directly in the field with a row spacing of 20 cm × 30 cm. After planting, water continuously to keep the soil moist. Pay attention to weeding and fertilizing after survival. This method is simple, has a high survival rate, and the plant grows quickly, but the reproduction coefficient is low.
(4) Transplanting seeds and seedlings propagated by cuttings are generally transplanted in November or December of the current year or in February or March of the following spring. Plant them in the prepared beds with a spacing of 20 cm × 30 cm and water them thoroughly to allow them to take root. After they have taken root, field management needs to be strengthened in a timely manner.
3. Field management
(1) Check the seedlings and replant them. Check the seedlings promptly after transplanting. If any dead or missing seedlings are found, replant them with soil to ensure that all seedlings are intact.
(2) Intertillage and weeding: Weeds should be removed in time during the seedling stage, and the soil should be loosened appropriately. Generally, intertillage should be carried out 3-4 times a year to keep the soil loose and free of weeds.
(3) Irrigation and drainage After planting, the soil should be kept moist at all times. In case of drought, irrigation and watering should be carried out in time. In rainy seasons, if water accumulates in the field, it should be drained in time to avoid root rot.
(4) Topdressing: Generally, topdressing is done once in spring and summer each year. 6-7 kg of ammonium nitrate or urea and 2-3 kg of potassium chloride are applied per mu, and water is applied. In winter, farmyard manure is applied once in combination with soil cultivation. Fence manure or composted manure is applied to the root zone of the plants. The soil at the edge of the ditch is covered with fertilizer, which can not only keep warm and prevent cold, but also promote early growth of the plants in the following spring.
(5) Intercropping and shading. Coral grass is shade-tolerant and prefers diffuse light, so it is best to plant it under evergreen broad-leaved forests. If it is planted on a hillside or in a row of fields without shade conditions, tall crops such as corn can be intercropped in the fields to provide appropriate shade. By managing intercrops, the growth of coral grass can be promoted and economic income can be increased.
4. Pest and disease control
As coral grass has just been transformed from wild to domestic, it has strong resistance to diseases and insect pests. No serious diseases and insect pests have been found so far, so no prevention and control is needed. However, if the field shading conditions are poor and the sun is strong in the summer, the leaves will be burned, the tips of the leaves or the green leaves will have spots and wither, and in severe cases, the whole leaves will be scorched. Measures such as irrigation to reduce temperature and improving shading conditions can be adopted to reduce damage.
Harvesting and processing
It is reported that the active ingredient content of coral grass leaves is higher than that of roots and stems. Therefore, during the growth period, the dark green old leaves at the bottom of the plant can be picked and dried or directly processed into extracts. Generally, the harvest is in autumn. The plant is cut from 5-10 cm above the ground, washed and dried for medicinal use. It can also be directly processed into extracts and handed over to pharmaceutical factories as raw materials for the production of Chinese patent medicines. Generally, in the first year of planting, 200-300 kg of dry products can be produced per mu, and the output can increase year by year thereafter, with a maximum of more than 600 kg per mu. The quality of medicinal materials is best when there are no weeds, mud, insect bites and mildew.
Simple methods for home flower cultivation 1. Six methods of watering flowers
① Watering flowers with residual tea Residual tea is used to water flowers, which can not only maintain soil moisture, but also add nitrogen and other nutrients to plants. However, it should be watered regularly and appropriately according to the humidity of the flower pot, and it cannot be watered as the residual tea is poured.
② Watering flowers with spoiled milk After the milk is spoiled, adding water to water the flowers is beneficial to the growth of flowers. But you need more water to make it more diluted. Unfermented milk is not suitable for watering flowers, because it generates a lot of heat during fermentation, which will "burn" the roots (rot the roots).
③ Watering flowers with cold boiled water Using cold boiled water to water flowers can make flowers and trees lush and colorful, and can promote early flowering. If used to water asparagus, it can make its branches and leaves grow horizontally and grow short and dense.
④ Watering flowers with warm water In winter, it is cold and the water is cold, so it is better to use warm water to water flowers. It is best to place the water indoors and wait until it is close to the room temperature before watering. It is better if the water temperature can reach 35℃ before watering.
⑤ Watering flowers with rice water Regularly using rice water to water Milan and other flowers can make their branches and leaves lush and the colors bright.
⑥ Watering flowers when no one is at home. People who love to grow flowers, such as those who are away from home for ten days or half a month because of visiting relatives or going out for business, have no one to water the flowers. At this time, you can fill a plastic bag with water, pierce a small hole in the bottom of the bag with a needle, and put it in the flowerpot. The small hole is close to the soil, and the water will slowly seep out to moisten the soil. The size of the hole should be controlled well to prevent water from leaking too quickly. Or place a container filled with cool water next to the flower pot, find a wide cloth strip with good water absorption, put one end into the water in the container, and bury the other end in the soil of the flower pot. In this way, the soil can remain moist for at least half a month and the flowers will not wither.
2. Two methods of fertilization
① Medical stone fertilizer Sprinkle a layer of medical stone particles in the flower pot to promote the growth of flowers and prolong the flowering period.
② Crushed eggshell fertilizer Crush the eggshell and bury it in the flower pot. It is a good fertilizer that can make the potted flowers grow luxuriantly, with luxuriant leaves and bright flowers.
3. Collect organic fertilizer for potted flowers
It is not advisable to use chemical fertilizers frequently for home flower cultivation. The main fertilizers such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium required for flower cultivation can be collected in daily life. For example: moldy and inedible waste peanuts, beans, melon seeds and grains are all nitrogen-containing fertilizers. After fermentation as base fertilizer or soaking into solution as topdressing, they can promote the growth of flowers and trees; fish bones, broken bones, chicken feathers, eggshells, and people's cut nails and hair are rich in phosphorus. Mix these wastes into old culture soil, add some water, put them in a plastic bag and put them in a corner. After a period of decomposition, they can become excellent organic fertilizers. If these wastes are soaked into solution and then used as topdressing, the flowers of domestic potted flowers can be bright and fruitful. In addition, fermented rice washing water, water replaced by bean sprouts, plant ash water, rainwater and wastewater in fish tanks, etc., all contain certain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. As long as they are used in moderation, they will play a role in promoting the growth and development of flowers and trees.
4. Fruit peels can neutralize alkaline potting soil
. Some flowers in the south are not easy to survive or bloom in potted plants in the north. This is because the potting soil is too alkaline. There are many ways to neutralize alkaline soil. This method is to soak the peeled apple skin and apple core in cold water. Frequently use this water to water the flower pot, which can gradually reduce the alkalinity of the pot soil and is conducive to the growth of certain plants.
5. Disease prevention of flowers
In early spring, various flowers will enter a vigorous growth season. At this time, you can spray 1% Bordeaux liquid on the leaves and backs 1-3 times to prevent diseases. The preparation method of 1% Bordeaux liquid is: 1 gram of copper sulfate, crush it and add 50 ml of hot water to dissolve; then use 1 gram of quicklime, use a few drops of water to powder it, then add 50 ml of water, filter out the residue; pour these two solutions into the same container at the same time and stir well, and finally a sky blue transparent Bordeaux liquid will be formed.
6. Two methods to kill insects and ants in flower pots
① When small flying insects appear in the flower pot, you can use three or four cotton sticks (cotton sticks), dip them in dichlorvos, so that they do not drip, and then insert the handle end into the pot soil around the plant, and the flying insects can be eliminated.
② When ants appear in the flowerpot, soak cigarette butts and tobacco in hot water for one or two days. When the water turns dark brown, sprinkle some of the water on the flower stems and leaves, and dilute the rest and pour it into the flowerpot. The ants can be eliminated.