The soil for potting should be well-drained and humus-rich loam. If the soil is too sticky, the drainage will be poor and the roots will easily rot.

More fertilizer is needed during the growing period, and fertilizer should be applied once a week or every other week. When the flowers are in bud, more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied to make the trunk firm and the flowers bright.

It likes moisture during the growing period, so it should be watered fully and the soil in the pot should be kept moist. During the high temperature period in summer, water the leaves frequently. During the dormant period, water less as long as the soil in the pot does not dry out.

Indoor cultivation requires sufficient light, at least 3-4 hours of direct sunlight per day. If the cultivation area is damp, the plant will grow taller, the flowers will be sparse, light-colored and small. It can grow well at normal room temperature from early spring to late autumn. It needs a period of dormancy in winter, and the temperature should be around 13℃.

After the flowers fade, the remaining flowers should be removed in time and the plants should be pruned back to avoid affecting the viewing experience.

Generally, the pot is repotted and the soil is changed every two years in April. At the same time, short pruning is required to control the height of the plant and maintain a good plant shape. If it is to grow into a shrub, it should be topped several times in the early growth stage to promote more branches.

The best potting soil is a mixture of 6 parts garden soil, 2 parts compost and 2 parts sand.

Fertilization

Apply thin liquid fertilizer once every 10 days or so.

It is advisable to keep the soil in the pot moist during the growth and development period. Excessive watering will cause root rot.

Dianthus likes light and should be placed in a sunny place for maintenance. In winter, place it in a sunny place indoors, keep the room temperature at 8-10℃, control watering, and it can safely overwinter.

Dianthus seedlings are susceptible to damping-off disease. The soil should be disinfected before planting, and attention should be paid to smooth drainage, ventilation and light, and a small amount of wood ash should be applied.

If you want it to bloom more, you can pinch the top to promote more branches. However, if there are too many branches, the flowers will become smaller, and the axillary buds must be removed in time to avoid nutrient consumption.

Dianthus can be propagated by sowing, cuttings and division.

(1) Seeding method: broadcast or row sow in open fields in August-September, with a 1 cm thick soil layer. The optimum temperature for germination is 20°C. It is best to use seeds harvested that year, as seeds will lose their germination ability if stored for a long time. Water thoroughly after sowing, and seedlings will emerge in 10-15 days. Transplant when the seedlings have 4-5 true leaves.

(2) Cutting method: After the flowers fade, use the clustered buds that sprout from the base of the stem, select the thick part and cut off 10 cm long as cuttings, remove the lower leaves, leaving only 1-2 leaves on the upper part, and flatten the base with a knife below the node. Leave 3-4 stem nodes on each cutting, and insert it into a flower pot filled with sandy loam or vermiculite , with a spacing of 3 cm × 3 cm between plants. After inserting, cover the pot with film. After rooting, gradually ventilate, increase light, and transplant in time.

(3) Division method: Dianthus chinensis tillering seedlings are used for propagation. When dividing, it is not necessary to dig up the whole plant, but only to dig out the young plant from one side of the root and plant it after separation.

Roses are cultivated in the open field. The planting site should be selected in a place suitable for its growth and development. Before planting, decomposed organic fertilizer should be applied to the hole as base fertilizer, and sufficient water should be poured after planting. During the growth and development period, inter-cultivation and weeding should be carried out frequently.

Roses like fertilizer very much. Generally, they should be fertilized about four times a year: once in early spring, fertilizer should be applied to promote germination; once in May, fertilizer should be applied to promote flowering; once during the flowering period; and once before winter, organic fertilizer should be applied. Then, there will be more flowers, larger flowers, and more colorful and fragrant flowers the following year.

In the early spring when the weather is dry, you should water the roses sufficiently to promote flower bud differentiation and prolong the flowering period. Roses are afraid of waterlogging. If water accumulates for a long time, the lower leaves will turn yellow and fall off, and in severe cases, they will die. Therefore, it is necessary to drain the water in time during the rainy season. It is even more important not to plant roses in low-lying areas with waterlogging to prevent waterlogging.

Common rose pests include rose sawfly, rose armyworm, rose cottonworm and red spider .

Rose stem sawfly: It is a stem-boring pest that mainly harms the stems of roses, causing branches to wither and the plant to die. When pruning the plant in winter, check the root stubble pith. If there are boreholes, drip 1-2 drops of 80% dichlorvos solution into it and seal it with mud. If tender branches are found to be infested, cut them off and destroy them.

Rose moth: The larvae damage the leaves and bite the buds and flowers. You can spray 1000-1500 times of 90% crystal trichlorfon or 1000 times of 50% cypermethrin emulsion for prevention and control.

Red spider mites: harm both sides of leaves, causing them to dry up and fall off. In the early stages of the disease, spray with 1000-1500 times diluted 20% dicofol emulsion or 800-1000 times diluted 20% dicofol wettable powder. Spray both sides of the leaves, once every 15 days, and generally 1-2 times is enough.

Pruning is an important part of rose management. Since roses bloom on branches of the current year, frequent pruning can make the plants grow vigorously, bloom in abundance and color, and have a correct tree shape, and can extend the flowering period. Rose pruning is divided into growing season pruning and dormant season pruning. Growing season pruning is to promptly cut off the remaining flower stalks and remove diseased and weak branches after the flowers fade, reduce nutrient consumption, facilitate ventilation and light transmission, and promote new branches. Dormant season pruning is to leave 4-5 branches per plant before budding in early spring, cut them short at 40-50 cm from the ground, leave 1-2 side branches on each branch, and cut them short with two buds on each side branch.

After buds appear in spring, the side buds should be removed in time to concentrate nutrients on the growth and development of the top buds.

Roses can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, division, grafting and other methods, but division and cuttings are generally used.

(1) Division: This can be done in spring or autumn. Select healthy rose plants and dig them up with their roots. According to the growth trend of the roots, divide the plants into several plants and plant them separately. Generally, root division can be carried out once every 3-4 years.

(2) Cutting method: It can be carried out in spring and winter. Both hard and soft branches of roses can be used as cuttings. For hard branch cuttings, generally in February or March before the plant sprouts, select two-year-old strong branches, cut them into 15 cm segments as cuttings, apply mud on the lower end, and insert them into the cutting bed. For soft branch cuttings, generally in July and August, select soft branches of the current year as cuttings and insert them into the cutting bed. Generally, cuttings can take root in about one month, and then be transplanted and maintained in time. Cuttings can also be inserted into the poles in December when the plants are pruned in winter.

Peony likes fertilizer, shade, warmth, drought, shade and cold, so before planting, there should be sufficient rotted fertilizer, manure and bone meal as base fertilizer. It is suitable to be cultivated in fertile, deep, well-drained, loose sandy loam, and neutral or slightly alkaline soil is preferred.

Watering and fertilizing are often combined. Water once a month before and half a month after flowering, and apply quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer once after budding, which can make the flowers bloom large and colorful. After each watering and fertilizing, loosen the soil in time. Avoid waterlogging of potted peonies.

Watering and fertilizing are often combined. Water once a month before and half a month after flowering, and apply quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer once after budding, which can make the flowers bloom large and colorful. After each watering and fertilizing, loosen the soil in time. Avoid waterlogging of potted peonies.

The environment should be mild and cool on weekdays. It can see more sunshine in spring and autumn. Avoid exposure to the sun in summer and place it in a semi-shaded and semi-sunny place. The flowering period of peony is short, generally 8-10 days. If the weather is cool or it is placed in a shaded place, the flowering period can last for half a month. After the flowers fade, cut off the pedicels in time to prevent seeds from forming and consuming nutrients. In autumn and winter, you can apply a topdressing fertilizer once to facilitate flowering next year.

Common diseases of peony include brown spot disease , root rot , etc.; common insect pests include red spider mites , aphids , etc.

Brown spot disease often occurs in hot and rainy seasons. When the disease occurs, small yellowish-green spots first appear on the leaves, and then gradually form small round brown spots. It can be sprayed with 0.5% equal-volume Bordeaux solution or 800 times diluted 65% Zineb powder for prevention and control. Root rot is mainly caused by poor drainage. After the disease occurs, the roots rot and turn black, and the above-ground part does not grow well. The roots can be washed with 60-degree white wine and replanted. If pests such as red spiders and aphids are found, 2000 times diluted 40% trichlorodicol emulsion and 3000 times diluted 40% oxydemeton-methyl emulsion or 2000 times diluted 80% dichlorvos can be used for spraying and prevention.

Before the peony blooms, in addition to the main bud, there are 3-4 side buds below it. In order to make the peony flower large and beautiful, the side buds should be removed in time after they appear so that nutrients can be concentrated on the main buds to achieve the desired purpose. The following three points should be noted when thinning the buds: First, it is advisable to choose to do it in the morning on a sunny day so that the wound can heal quickly and reduce the chance of pathogens invading; second, use sharp scissors to operate carefully, and do not cut or cut off the leaves next to the flower buds when thinning, so that the plant can produce more photosynthetic products to meet the needs of flowering; third, thinning the buds is generally done twice. The first time should be done when the diameter of the main bud is about 1 cm. At this time, the main bud and the side bud closest to the main bud should be left first. When the main bud is damaged, this side bud can be used for flowering. The second time should be done when the diameter of the main bud is about 2 cm. If the main bud is not damaged at this time, in addition to leaving the main bud, all the side buds should be thinned out. For varieties that are prone to lodging during flowering, pillars should be set up in time while thinning the buds.

Peonies are usually propagated by division, but they can also be propagated by sowing. Division must be done in late August to mid-September in autumn, that is, around the time of Bailu in the lunar calendar. Division at this time can give the root system a period of time to recover and grow before winter, producing new roots and facilitating growth the following year. Be careful not to divide in spring, as flower growers have a proverb that "peonies divided at the spring equinox will not bloom until they are old." When dividing, first dig up the root cluster, shake off the soil, and when they are slightly soft and dried in the shade, divide them into one plant with 3-4 buds. In order to promote the germination of new roots, the fleshy roots can be kept 15 cm long and cut short. Plant as soon as possible after division. Generally, it is divided once every 3-5 years.

Peony seed propagation is mainly used to cultivate new varieties. Seeds should be sown immediately after they mature. The later the sowing, the lower the germination rate. They can also be stored in sand for a short period of time to keep moisture and promote the after-ripening of the embryo. After sowing, only roots will grow in the autumn of the same year, and new buds will emerge after the spring of the following year. Peony seedlings that are well developed can bloom in 4-5 years.

Planting Daphne koreana in the south can be done in spring and autumn. It is usually mixed with deciduous shrubs to avoid sun exposure in summer and get enough sun in winter. When planting, compost or manure can be applied to the hole as base fertilizer, but don't apply too much. The pot should be changed every 2-3 years. The potting can be done indoors in March. The potting soil should be slightly acidic, and hoof pieces should be placed at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer.

Top dressing can be applied 1-2 times during the growth process. In winter, ditches can be dug around the plants for fertilizer application, but human feces and urine should be avoided.

Water when the soil is dry and when the soil is wet, and spray water on the leaves to cool them down in summer.

For potted Daphne odora, summer care is very important. The flowerpot should be placed in a well-ventilated, cool place, away from rain, direct sunlight, and hot wind. Daphne odora is not cold-resistant, so it must be moved indoors before winter and placed in a sunny place with the room temperature kept above 8°C.

In the hot and dry weather in summer, Daphne is vulnerable to red spider mites , aphids , and scale insects . You can spray it with 1000-1200 times diluted omethoate emulsion. The roots of Daphne are sweet and easy to hide earthworms. Too many earthworms will entangle the roots of Daphne, which will affect the absorption of water and nutrients by the plants. You can dig out the plants, remove the earthworms, and then replant them. The disease is mainly caused by mosaic disease caused by viruses. After infection, the leaves of the plants will have spots and deformities, resulting in poor flowering and stagnant growth. If this virus infection is found, the plants should be dug up with roots and destroyed.

Daphne koreana has strong sprouting ability and is resistant to pruning. In summer, you should pay attention to pruning off the overgrown branches and leaves.

Daphne koreana is generally propagated by cuttings and high pressure methods, of which cuttings are the main method, and cuttings can be done in spring, summer, and autumn. Spring cuttings are carried out in February and March. Before the plant sprouts, select one-year-old strong branches and cut them into sections of about 10 cm each, retaining 2-3 leaves on the upper end of the branches for use. Summer cuttings and autumn cuttings are carried out in June-July and August-September, respectively, and strong branches of the current year are selected as cuttings. The cutting bed is made of river sand or vermiculite , and the branches are inserted 1/3-1/2. After insertion, water it thoroughly, and then use plastic film to make an arch shed to seal it. Observe it frequently and keep the humidity of the soil in the cutting bed. It should not be too dry or too wet. Pay attention to shading for summer cuttings, and pay attention to cold and frost protection for second cuttings. Generally, it can take root in 1-2 months, and then transplant it into a pot.

Calla lily is a potted flower for viewing leaves and flowers, and is also an important cut flower material. When potting, it is advisable to choose well-drained, fertile sandy loam, and apply well-rotted cake fertilizer or pig manure. After the first flowering in early spring (or in autumn), dig the buds that sprout around the rhizome of the mother plant and plant them separately in the pot. After planting, water it sufficiently, place it in the shade, and keep the pot soil moist.

If the fertilizer is insufficient and the nutrition is insufficient, the leaves will turn yellow, and if the fertilizer is too much, the leaves will turn yellow. Therefore, the fertilizer and water should be appropriate. In addition to the base fertilizer before planting, during the growth period, apply liquid fertilizer once every 20 days or so. The fertilizer can be decomposed bean cake fertilizer water, and during the peak growth season, a thin fertilizer liquid mixed with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium can be added once every 10 days or so. When applying fertilizer, be sure not to pour the fertilizer water into the leaf sheath to avoid rot.

If you water the Calla Lily too little, the petiole will break due to loss of water; if you water it too much, the roots will rot. During the growth period, you should always keep the soil moist, water it frequently, and spray the ground around the pot with water in the morning and evening to keep the leaves fresh and clean.

After budding, move it to a shaded place with scattered light for maintenance. Be careful not to expose it to direct sunlight, and do not shade it completely. Calla lilies prefer semi-shaded and humid air. If you do not take measures such as cooling and humidifying and preventing strong light in summer, the leaves are most likely to turn yellow or wilt.

It enters dormancy in June and July. Water less at this time and try to create a relatively dry environment for it. When all the leaves turn yellow, take out the bulbs and store them in a ventilated and cool place, and plant them in pots in autumn. If you don't want the calla lily to go dormant, you can place it in a completely shaded and well-ventilated place in late June for maintenance. Spray water on the ground 2-3 times every day at noon and afternoon to lower the temperature. If the daytime temperature does not exceed 30℃, the calla lily can continue to bloom.

Generally, calla lilies can be moved indoors in late October. Watering should be controlled to keep the room temperature not lower than 10℃. Wash the leaves with clean water close to room temperature once a week to keep the leaves fresh and green. If the air is dry, spray water around the flowers to increase humidity. Pay attention to increasing light in winter. To promote early spring flowering, water with thin fertilizer 1-2 times in December.

Calla lilies are most susceptible to aphid damage when ventilation is poor during the growing season . When pests occur, spray 40% omethoate emulsion 1500-2000 times dilution for prevention and control, and pay attention to improving ventilation conditions.

Calla lilies are susceptible to smoke damage. If they are placed in a room where a coal stove is used for cooking or heating, they will be frequently exposed to smoke. A large amount of smoke will cover the leaves, causing them to turn yellow and affect flowering. Therefore, care should be taken to install a chimney and ensure air circulation to prevent smoke damage.

When the leaves are lush, they should be thinned out in time to facilitate the emergence of flower stalks. Calla lilies begin to bloom during the Spring Festival, and the peak flowering period is from March to April. After the flowers fade, the remaining flowers and flower stalks should be cut off in time to avoid consuming nutrients.

The main method of propagation is bulb division. During the dormant period, the bulbs around the tuber can be peeled off and planted separately. The seeds should be sown as soon as they are mature, and they will bloom after about 2-3 years.

Calla lily is easy to foresee and cultivate. It needs to bloom on New Year's Day and Spring Festival. It can be planted in August or September. Strengthen care. After germination, apply fertilizer once a week. Keep it above 15℃ and place it in a sunny place to bloom as scheduled.

When potting Phalaenopsis, first fill the bottom of the pot with a permeable substrate, then plant the Phalaenopsis seedlings in the pot with 1/3 moss and 2/3 fern roots, and slightly press it to fix the seedlings in the pot. If you use moss potting completely, you should squeeze out the water-soaked moss, loosely wrap it under the roots of the orchid seedlings, and press it lightly, but don't press the moss too tightly, because moss absorbs a lot of water, and if you press it too tightly, it will cause root rot.

The best time to repot is in late spring and early summer, just after the flowering period, when new roots begin to grow. The temperature should not be too low when repotting, otherwise it will cause root rot and death if not managed carefully.

Potted seedlings should be gradually moved to a larger pot according to their growth. Do not plant seedlings directly in a large pot. When repotting seedlings, it is not necessary to remove the original cultivation medium to avoid damaging the roots. Just wrap a layer of moss or other potting medium around the roots and plant them in a larger pot, and make the root neck consistent with the height of the pot edge. Seedlings that grow well can be repotted once every 4-6 months. After repotting, the plants need to be placed in a shaded place within two weeks. During this period, no fertilizer can be applied, only spraying or watering can be done.

Phalaenopsis has poor tolerance to fertilizer, so avoid applying raw fertilizer or concentrated fertilizer. Fertilization is mainly carried out during the growth period, and the most commonly used fertilization method is liquid fertilizer combined with watering. The principle is to apply less fertilizer and light fertilizer. Fertilization should be completely stopped during the flowering period. After the flowering period, liquid fertilizer should be applied once a week when new roots and new buds begin to grow, with a concentration of 2000-3000 times liquid. When entering the vigorous growth period, a small amount of solid farmyard manure can be applied on the surface of the pot. No fertilizer should be applied within 1 month after repotting, and watering should be controlled. Summer is the vigorous growth period of Phalaenopsis, and continuous fertilizer should be applied, with liquid fertilizer applied once a week. For areas with hot and humid nights, fertilization should be stopped for a period of time. Plant growth slows down in late autumn, and fertilization should be reduced. Excessive fertilization makes the plant grow too vigorously, affecting the formation of flower buds, resulting in failure to bloom in the future. Fertilization can be stopped by the end of October. Fertilization cannot be applied in winter without heating equipment.

Potted Phalaenopsis should be watered appropriately. Phalaenopsis roots should not be waterlogged, but rather ventilated and dry. Too much water can easily cause root rot. Usually, if the pot is still very wet 5-6 hours after watering, it will cause root rot. Moss absorbs a lot of water, so it can be watered once every few days; fern roots, bark, etc. absorb the least water, so they can be watered once a day. Water when the surface of the substrate in the pot becomes dry and the surface of the pot turns white; water more when the temperature is high and the plant evaporates a lot, and less when the temperature is low; water more during the vigorous growth period, and less during the dormant period. When the temperature is below 15°C, strictly control watering and keep the roots slightly dry. For newly potted or newly planted plants, the substrate in the pot should be kept slightly dry, and less water should be given to promote the germination of new roots.

The optimum temperature for Phalaenopsis growth is 22-28℃. It is best to keep the daytime temperature at around 27℃ and the nighttime temperature at around 18℃. In hot and humid conditions, air circulation should be increased. If the temperature exceeds 35℃ in summer, the growth and development will be inhibited. If the temperature is below 15℃, the growth will stop.

Phalaenopsis only needs diffuse light and cannot tolerate sunlight. When cultivated outdoors in summer, 80% of the sunlight needs to be blocked, and 60% of the sunlight needs to be blocked in spring and autumn. When cultivated indoors, it can thrive in a sunny room with bright diffuse light.

(1) Bacterial brown spot disease : Phalaenopsis seedlings are most susceptible to bacterial brown spot disease. Therefore, the seedlings should be protected from damage when they are taken out of the bottle. The greenhouse should be disinfected before the seedlings enter the greenhouse. After the seedlings enter the greenhouse, spraying 2000 times diluted agricultural penicillin 1-2 days can play a role in disease prevention. In addition, the indoor humidity should be maintained at a high level, water should be avoided on the leaves, and proper ventilation should be provided.

(2) Bacterial soft rot: Adult plants are susceptible to bacterial soft rot. In the early stage of the disease, dark brown spots appear at the ends of the leaves, which then spread out. Diseased plants should be completely isolated, and the diseased leaves should be immediately cut off and burned.

Reproduction generally uses the division method. Cultivated adult Phalaenopsis plants occasionally produce branches or plant buds at the base or on the flower stem. When the plant buds are slightly larger and grow 2-3 small roots, they are cut off and cultivated separately into new plants.

The reasons for the phenomenon of bud withering or not blooming in cultivated Phalaenopsis are as follows: First, the air is not circulated, especially during the flowering period, good ventilation is needed. If the air is stagnant and not circulated at this time, the top of the flower stem is easy to wither, causing the flower buds to wither and fall early; second, dry air, insufficient watering or strong light exposure can easily cause the leaves to wither, affecting the differentiation of flower buds and flowering; third, improper fertilization, such as excessive nitrogen fertilizer and lack of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, will affect the formation of flower buds, so that no or few flowers will bloom; fourth, careless watering causes water to splash to the center of the leaf base, where water accumulation can easily cause the leaf base to rot, leading to poor plant growth, thus affecting bud formation and flowering; fifth, the temperature is too high or too low, which inhibits plant growth and also affects the differentiation of flower buds and does not bloom. In addition, the cultivation material is alkaline, which affects the root system's absorption of water and nutrients, which is also a reason for Phalaenopsis not blooming.

The best flower pot is a clay pot with good air permeability, followed by a purple clay pot, and the worst is a glazed pot and a porcelain pot. When planting seedlings, you should pay attention to the size of the flower pot, and avoid using a large pot for small seedlings. If the pot is too large, the soil in the pot will not dry for a long time, and the ventilation will be poor. At the same time, the root system should not reach the pot wall, which will affect the development of the seedlings. Generally, you can choose a clay pot with a diameter of about 10 cm for cuttings, and then turn it into a flower pot of about 15 cm after one year.

When potting, you should pay attention to the drainage layer, cover the drainage holes with tiles, put in 1/3 of coarse soil particles, and add a little fine soil. Then put the azalea seedlings in, straighten the seedlings with one hand, and fill the pot with soil with the other hand. When filling the soil, pay attention to only fill it to 2 cm below the mouth of the pot, not too full, so as to water it later. Finally, puff the pot around and shake the pot to make the surface of the pot flat. After planting, use a watering can to water it thoroughly. Note that when watering, you must water it until water seeps out from the bottom of the pot. If the water is not watered thoroughly, only the surface layer is wet but not the inner layer, the potted flowers will dry out.

Generally, repotting is done every 3-4 years. The best time to repot is before the azalea blooms in March or in September. For plants in full bloom, it is best to do it after the flowers bloom. When repotting, be careful not to remove too much old soil or damage the root system, otherwise it will affect growth and flowering. When repotting, add some newly prepared acidic soil and water it sufficiently. Place it in a cool place for about a week before gradually exposing it to sunlight.

Fertilization should be carried out according to the needs of each growth period of azalea. For example, before flowering, phosphorus fertilizer should be applied once every 10 days for 2-3 times in a row, which can make the flowers large, colorful, thick petals and long flowering period. Fertilization should be stopped during the flowering period. Nitrogen fertilizer should be added after flowering to restore the tree body and promote the growth of branches and leaves. In the hot season of July and August, the growth stagnates and it is not suitable to fertilize. Before entering the house in autumn, it is the long bitter period of azalea, so more phosphorus fertilizer should be applied once every 7-10 days. After entering the dormant period in winter, stop fertilizing.

When fertilizing azaleas, you should pay attention to the following: apply thin fertilizers frequently and make sure the fertilizers are fully decomposed. Fertilization should be done in the evening on a sunny day when the soil in the pot is dry. This is a safe and effective time to fertilize. The next morning after fertilization, water should be poured once to dissolve the fertilizers in the soil and help the roots absorb them.

Watering azaleas should be based on weather changes and plant growth. In general, the pot soil should be kept dry and wet. In spring and autumn, water can be poured thoroughly every 2-3 days. In summer, water should be poured once every morning and evening. At the same time, spray the leaves with clean water and sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pot to increase air humidity. On rainy days, the water in the pot should be dumped in time to prevent root rot. After the beginning of autumn, the temperature gradually drops, and watering should be gradually reduced. After entering the room in winter, the amount of watering should be controlled so that the pot soil is always slightly moist, otherwise it is very easy to rot. In winter, you should also pay attention to frequently washing the branches and leaves with clean water close to room temperature to prevent dust from contaminating the leaves and affecting photosynthesis, and at the same time reduce the probability of sooty disease .

In the cultivation and management of potted azalea in the northern region, the temperature and light should be appropriate. Generally, it is taken out of the room after the Grain Rain (after the sunset) and placed on the balcony or in the courtyard. At this time, the sunlight is softer and only needs to be properly shaded around noon. After the summer, it must be moved under the shade shed or on the shady windowsill indoors to maintain good ventilation. In late autumn, it is no longer necessary to shade the light to facilitate the growth of the plant. Move it indoors before winter and place it outside with sufficient sunlight. The room temperature in winter is preferably around 10℃. If the room temperature is too high in winter, the physiological activities of the plant will be strengthened, and nutrients will be consumed, which will affect flowering and growth in the following year.

Common pests of azalea include red spider mites, armyworms, aphids , short-palped snails, etc.

Red spiders are tiny in size, but they are very harmful to azaleas. This type of pest is most likely to occur when azaleas are shaded in high-rise buildings. The prevention and control method is to catch them manually. For insecticides, you can spray 5% lime sulfur mixture , or you can use equal parts of walnut leaves, oleander leaves, and hedgerows to soak the juice, dilute it with water, and then spray it. Spraying with 1000 times dichlorvos is also a good way to kill them.

When pruning, you should cut off the dense branches, cross branches, weak branches, drooping branches, long branches and diseased branches. This is not only for the beauty of the tree shape, but also to improve the conditions of ventilation and light transmission; save nutrients, make the main branches strong, so that new shoots can sprout as soon as possible, so that when they bloom next year, they can achieve the purpose of more flowers, larger flowers and bright colors. After the azalea blooms, its residual flowers often do not fall for a long time, which will consume a lot of nutrients. In order to prevent the nutrients from being consumed in vain, the residual flowers should be picked off in time so that the nutrients can supply the needs of sprouting new branches. In addition, the shorter summer azalea has many horizontal branches. Every spring, many small branches will sprout from the branches at the root. In order to concentrate nutrients on the main branches and flowers, so that it can grow faster and bigger, these small branches should also be cut off in time. If there are too many flower buds, except for keeping one flower on each branch, the rest of the flower stalks should also be removed.

When the number of reproduction is small, it can be inserted into a shallow mud and sand basin. The basin soil is mainly fine river sand, and peat soil, garden soil, etc. are added. When cutting, choose a one-year-old strong branch with short internodes, lignified base, and 6-10 cm long as the cutting. Before cutting, it is best to poke a hole in the basin soil with chopsticks, then insert the cutting into the soil, gently compact it with your hands, and spray it with water so that the base of the cutting is closely combined with the soil. After cutting, cover the flower pot with a plastic bag and place it in a semi-shaded place. Spray water once in the morning and evening every day within 1 week, and keep the basin soil moist frequently afterwards. Under the temperature condition of 18-25℃, the general variety can take root in about 40-60 days.

Planting spring orchids should be done in late autumn. Before planting, it is advisable to use a new clay pot that has been soaked in clean water for several hours. If you use a purple clay pot or a plastic pot, pay attention to drainage. The size of the pot should be such that the roots of the flowers can stretch in the pot. Orchid mud is the most ideal culture soil, or you can mix half of leaf mold (or humus soil) and half of sandy loam. Do not use alkaline soil. First, put tiles on the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot (it is best to have 3 drainage holes), and then put gravel, ash slag, etc., which account for about 1/5 of the height of the pot. Spread a layer of coarse sand on it, and then put in the culture soil. Finally, put the orchid seedlings in the pot, straighten the roots, and let them stretch naturally. When the soil is half filled, gently lift the orchid seedlings and shake the pot at the same time to make the orchid roots and the pot soil tightly combined. Continue to fill the soil to the edge of the pot, press it tightly, and leave about 3 cm of the edge on the top for fertilization and watering.

Orchids should not be fertilized with concentrated fertilizers. New orchids should not be fertilized in the first year. Fertilizer can be applied after 1-2 years of cultivation when the new roots grow vigorously. Generally, from April to the beginning of autumn, apply a thin layer of fully decomposed cake fertilizer every 15-20 days. Stop fertilizing in the hot summer. The best time to fertilize is in the evening. When fertilizing, avoid liquid fertilizer from contaminating the leaves.

Orchids have thicker cuticles and sunken pores on their leaves, which are more drought-resistant. Therefore, they do not need much water. It is better to keep the pot soil "70% dry and 30% wet". Generally, water once every 2-3 days in spring. After flowering, the pot soil should be kept slightly dry. After April, the pot soil should be kept slightly moist. In summer, when the temperature is high, water once a day. In autumn, it is better to see dry and wet. In winter, water less. During the bud formation period of spring orchids, it is better to keep them moist, but not too wet. In the evening of drought and hot seasons, spray the ground around the flower pot to increase the air humidity.

After potting, water thoroughly and place in a shaded place. Keep indoors in early spring and winter, and outdoors under a shade shed at other times. Shade from 8 am to 6 pm in summer. The shade degree of spring orchids should be about 90% in summer, and 70%-80% in spring and autumn.

(1) White blight : It often occurs during the rainy season. Initially, white mycelium is produced on the soil surface and the base of the leaves, eventually causing the pseudobulbs to rot.

Prevention and control methods: Remove the infected soil and spray with 500 times diluted pentachloronitrobenzene powder.

(2) Black spot disease : It often occurs in hot and rainy summers. Brown spots appear on the leaves at first, then increase in size and turn into black spots. It mostly harms new buds, and in severe cases, the entire plant dies.

Prevention and control methods: Pull out diseased plants, increase ventilation, and lower the temperature; spray with 600 times diluted 5% Mancozeb powder or 800 times diluted 50% Carbendazim , once every half month for 3 consecutive times.

(3) Scale insects : commonly known as orchid lice. Scale insects often cause damage in environments with high humidity and poor ventilation. They are difficult to eradicate, but can usually be controlled with a 1000-fold solution of phosmet .

After the current storage, it is advisable to keep one flower with the best development and the best ornamental value, and remove the rest, so that the flowers can be large and beautiful. After 10-14 days of blooming, the flowers can be cut off together with the flower stalks. Do not wait until the flowers fall off naturally before cutting, so as to reduce nutrient consumption and facilitate flowering next year.

It is mostly propagated by division. General varieties are divided once every 2-3 years, and precious varieties are divided once every 1-5 years. The appropriate time for division is before the new buds appear or before winter after flowering. Early spring flowering varieties are divided in late autumn, and summer and autumn flowering varieties are divided in early spring. Before division, water less, let the pot dry, turn the pot seedlings upside down, shake off the pot soil, and cut off the rotten roots and some old leaves. For species with pseudobulbs , cut them from the widest part of the pseudobulbs. According to the size of the ramet seedlings, choose flower pots of different diameters, and choose high and deep flower pots. The hole at the bottom of the pot should be large. When potting, cover the pot hole with tiles first, add a thin layer of pebbles, about 1/5 of the depth of the pot, then put the new buds of the ramet seedlings upwards, and spread the roots flat on the bottom of the pot. While cultivating the soil, gently shake the pot, and slightly lift the seedlings, and finally add another layer of soil. For species with pseudobulbs, the planting depth is measured when the pseudobulb is flush with the soil surface. Finally, water it and place it in a cool place. After two weeks, move it to a semi-shaded place. In addition, it can also be propagated by tissue culture.