Key points for cultivating flowers and plants


Key points for cultivating flowers and plants (organize them yourself in case of emergency)
Sunflower
It likes a warm, sunny and dry environment, is extremely tolerant to barrenness, can adapt to most soils, and can self-sow and reproduce. It blooms in the sun and closes in the morning, evening, and cloudy days, so it is called sunflower or noon flower.
Sunflowers can be propagated by sowing or cuttings. They can be sown in spring, summer, and autumn. At 20°C, the seeds will germinate about 10 days after sowing. The soil should be thinly covered, and it can grow without soil. At 15°C, it will bloom in about 20 days.
The half-flowered lotus is a sun-loving plant that likes light and high temperatures. It is extremely drought-resistant, has a strong vitality, and requires little management. It is known as "immortal".
The half-branch lotus not only has rich and bright colors, but also has excellent landscape effects. It grows robustly and requires very little management. Although it is an annual, it has a strong ability to self-seed and reproduce, and can be used for many years. It is an excellent landscape flower species.

Haruha
Pot and soil: You can choose a clay pot for planting, and cover it with other pots, which is both beautiful and breathable. Since spring taro likes fertile, loose, well-drained slightly acidic soil, you can mix leaf mold, peat soil, garden soil, etc. with a small amount of river sand for home cultivation. Depending on the growth of the plant, repot once every 2 years in spring.
Light and temperature: Spring taro likes warmth, tolerates shade, is not cold-resistant, and avoids strong sunlight. In the hot summer, it should be placed in the shade. In winter, it can be placed in a sunny place. The suitable temperature for its growth is 18℃ to 25℃, and the wintering temperature is preferably greater than 8℃.
Water and fertilizer: Spring taro likes a humid environment. You can usually water it with rice water. Keep the soil moist during the growing season. In summer, you can spray water on the leaves or around the flowerpot every day to maintain a fresh and humid microclimate. In winter, the temperature gradually drops, and the number of watering should be reduced. Although spring taro likes warm and humid, it has a strong adaptability to the dry indoor environment in the north in winter. When potting or repotting, put some hoof horn pieces or oil residue at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, and then apply liquid fertilizer (such as thin cake fertilizer water, etc.) once a month. In winter, apply less or no fertilizer.
Reproduction: For home cultivation, division is often used. When the tillers sprouting from the base grow up and have adventitious roots, they can be divided and planted separately in combination with repotting. The top of the stem can also be cut off in spring to promote axillary buds and use them as propagation materials. This method has a higher propagation coefficient.
To make the plant compact, you can set up a support to guide it or take advantage of the new leaves' phototropism and rotate the flowerpot so that the palms of the new leaves face the sun.

Pothos
In spring, summer and autumn, it can be placed near the east or north windowsill, and in winter, it can be placed in the south window. If it is placed in a dark environment for a long time, it will not only cause the creeping stems to grow too long, the internodes to become longer, and the plant shape to become sparse, but also the yellow and white stripes on the leaves will become smaller and lighter, or even disappear completely and fade to green.
The green radish likes moisture. It is advisable to water it regularly during the growing season to keep the soil moist. Avoid drying the soil, otherwise it will easily cause yellow leaves and poor plant shape. If water is too much, it will cause waterlogging and withered leaves. Especially in winter when the room temperature is low, you should pay more attention to controlling watering. In summer, while watering fully, you should also pay attention to spraying water on the leaves frequently. In winter, the climate is dry, and you also need to spray the leaves with warm water every 4 to 5 days to wash away the dust on the leaves to keep the leaves bright and green.
For potted green radish, you should choose fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold, preferably slightly acidic.
The green radish is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed in a sunny place indoors all year round. In a dimly lit room, it should be moved to a brighter environment every half a month to recover for a period of time, otherwise the internodes will easily grow and the leaves will become smaller.

camellia
Placement: Camellia should be placed in a warm, humid, ventilated and light-permeable place. It should be exposed to sufficient sunlight in spring and shaded in summer. If it is placed on the balcony, it will be killed by the sun if you are not careful.
Watering: The soil of camellia bonsai should be kept moist, but not too wet, to prevent it from being dry and wet. Generally, it can be watered more in spring to facilitate germination and shoot growth; in summer, water it in the morning and evening, and it is best to spray water on the leaves to make the leaves wet. Do not use quick water to pour directly or fill it up, and do not use hot water. Avoid watering when the temperature is high around noon; water in autumn and water in moderation; in winter, water it around noon, and spray water every two or three days.
Fertilization: Camellia likes fertilizer. When potting, you should pay attention to putting basal fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. The fertilizers used include decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate. It is not advisable to fertilize too much at ordinary times. Generally, apply 2 to 3 times of thin fertilizer water in April and May after flowering, and apply a slightly concentrated water fertilizer once in November in autumn. When using fertilizer, pay attention to the proportion of phosphorus fertilizer to promote the abundance and color of flowers.
Pruning: Camellia grows slowly, so excessive pruning is not recommended. Generally, you can prune away the long branches that affect the tree shape, as well as diseased and insect-infested branches and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, you can thin out the flowers to leave only 1-2 and keep a certain distance between them. The rest should be removed as soon as possible to avoid nutrient consumption. In addition, you should also remove the flowers that are about to wither in time, which can also reduce nutrient consumption, so that the plant can grow healthily and form new flower buds.
Repotting: Camellia bonsai can be repotted once every 1-2 years. The new pot should be one size larger than the old one to facilitate the expansion and development of the root system. The best time to repot is in spring or April, but autumn is also an option. When changing the soil, remove some of the hardened old soil and replace it with fertile and loose new soil, and add basal fertilizer.
Pest and disease control: The main diseases of camellia are black mold and anthracnose, which can be controlled by spraying 0.5 degree Bordeaux liquid. The main insect pest is the tea moth, which can be controlled by cutting off the insect tips, usually from April to June.

Cycad
Cycas revoluta likes warm and humid environment, but cannot tolerate severe cold; it likes sunlight and tolerates partial shade; it grows slowly, and its life span can be more than 200 years. It is suitable for growing in well-drained, loose and fertile sandy loam.
When watering a potted cycad, the soil should not be too wet for a newly potted cycad. The soil should be neither dry nor wet, but kept properly dry to prevent root rot. Increase the amount of watering after the new leaves are stretched out. In summer, which is a season of vigorous growth, you can water it a little more, once a day. After autumn, the growth gradually slows down, and you should also pay attention to controlling the amount of watering. Avoid water accumulation in the pot during the rainy season. When the new leaves are unfolded, the withered and yellow leaves should be cut off to maintain the plant's graceful appearance.
To control the length of new leaves, try not to water or fertilize within a week when new leaves are about to sprout. When all the pinnate leaves are released and all the new leaves are fully grown and fixed, apply thin liquid fertilizer every half a month or so, preferably alum fertilizer water, to keep the leaves dark green and more shiny. New leaves are very sensitive to light, so you should often turn the direction of the flower pot, 180 degrees every 3 to 5 days, so that it receives light evenly and grows evenly on all sides. However, shade should be provided at noon in midsummer to prevent the scorching sun from burning the new leaves.
For open-field planting, it is advisable to dig large ridges, add soil and apply garbage fertilizer, poultry and livestock manure as base fertilizer. Generally, artificial watering is not required and less fertilizer should be applied.
When the temperature is high, dry and ventilation is poor, the leaves are easily damaged by scale insects. To prevent and control them, you can use a brush to brush them off or spray them with 1000 times diluted 50% oxydemeton-methyl emulsion, 50% long-acting phosphorus or 80% DDT emulsion.
Especially the larvae of the Cycad Butterfly, which have eaten the leaves of the plant for years. Now we finally know how to prevent and control them.
The Cycad butterfly belongs to the family Lycaenidae in the order Lepidoptera. The adult is about 13 mm long and has a wingspan of about 35 mm. Its antennae are club-shaped, its forewings are grayish white and nearly triangular with wavy and circular markings, and its hindwings have white caudal ridges. Its larvae are oblate and cylindrical, and the mature larvae are nearly pink with a dorsal line.
Prevention and control should be carried out before the core leaves of the iron tree come out and unfold. The pesticide can be sprayed with 800 times diluted 40% cypermethrin or 2000 times diluted 20% cypermethrin.
Physical control: When the new feather leaves just emerge, cover them with gauze to prevent female adults from laying eggs on them, or kill the adults manually.
Use indicator plants for timely prevention and control: If ants are found on the ball flowers or feather leaves, it means that there is a high possibility of harm from the larvae of this butterfly. Check immediately and use pesticides to prevent and control it in time.

Pomegranate
(1) Location. Pomegranates prefer a sunny and warm environment. They will bloom only if there is more than 4 hours of sunshine every day. In summer, the soil in the pot should be kept moist. Pomegranate trees are not afraid of the sun. Some people do not understand this characteristic of pomegranates and move them to a shaded place during the hot noon. This is one of the important reasons for not flowering or bearing fruit or poor growth. Pomegranates are cold-resistant. Ground-planted pomegranates can overwinter outdoors in Beijing.
(2) Watering. Pomegranates are drought-tolerant. They need to be watered frequently during the summer growth period (less watering is needed during the flowering and fruiting periods, as too much water can easily cause flowers and fruits to fall off). Keep the soil moist, but not too dry or too wet. Pomegranates are afraid of waterlogging. During continuous rainy days, the pot should be turned upside down or moved to a sheltered place to prevent water from accumulating in the pot. During the winter dormancy period, water less frequently, as long as the soil is moist.
(3) Fertilization. Pomegranates like fertilizer. In addition to applying basal fertilizer when planting, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer every half a month during the leaf expansion period, bud formation period, and fruit growth period after flowering. After bud formation, apply 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate or liquid fertilizer fermented with poultry manure twice (with an interval of about one week in between), which can make the flowers bright and the fruits plump. But do not apply fertilizer during the flowering period.
(4) Shaping. Pomegranates have strong germination ability and can produce new branches several times a year. Generally, strong new branches grown in spring can form fruiting mother branches. In the spring of the following year, short new branches grown from the terminal buds or axillary buds on these fruiting mother branches often bloom, and the flowers of the terminal buds are the most fruit-bearing. Steep branches grown in the same year or new branches grown from perennial old branches generally do not bloom in the same year, so this feature should be taken into consideration when shaping. Branches grown in summer and autumn are difficult to form fruiting mother branches and should be cut off in time. Pomegranate bonsai shaping is often carried out before budding in spring. Steep branches, upright branches, overly dense branches and thin branches should be cut off, but attention should be paid to retaining those strong fruiting mother branches. From the branches pruned in spring, some with a certain posture can be found and pruned for cuttings. After the branches survive, they can be placed in fine pots for viewing in the third year. If the mother branch is too long and affects the shape, you can cut off about 1/3 of the branch length, but do not prune it heavily, especially do not cut off all the branches grown last year, otherwise, it will be difficult for this pomegranate to bloom and bear fruit that year.
(5) Prevent diseases and pests. Pomegranates are susceptible to pests such as aphids, scale insects, loopers, and borers, which should be prevented and controlled in a timely manner.

Jasmine
Jasmine is easier to plant in the ground than in pots. How to take good care of jasmine? If you want the jasmine flowers to be large, white, fragrant and lasting, potted jasmine needs more effort in management than ground-planted jasmine. You should pay attention to the following points:
1. Sufficient sunlight. If there is no direct sunlight for more than six hours a day, it is difficult to grow jasmine well. It must be in a sunny environment to flourish, the flowers will be white, fragrant, and the flowering period will be long, and it will bloom.
2. Jasmine likes warmth, just like people like warmth; the ideal temperature is 20 to 29 degrees Celsius, and it is best not to be lower than 14 degrees, and it must be avoided from cold winds, otherwise it will shed leaves and wither easily.
3. Jasmine likes air circulation. There must be enough space for planting jasmine, and avoid cramped and stuffy conditions.
4. The planting material should be loose and have good drainage performance. Do not stick or accumulate water. Suggestion: 6 parts of leaf mold, 2 parts of ordinary garden soil and 2 parts of sandy soil.
5. Jasmine likes fertilizer, but not concentrated fertilizer. Fertilization should be frequent but not excessive. The planting soil must have basal fertilizer. You can add a small amount of bone meal, shells, egg shells or dry animal bones to the deep roots as basal fertilizer. Then apply a small amount of bean dregs or peanuts once a month. Quick-acting fertilizer mainly composed of nitrogen fertilizer should be applied once in spring every year, and quick-acting fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied in summer. After the flowers fall, you can apply fish essence fertilizer (organic fertilizer) once, which has a miraculous effect on strong plants and flowering.

7. Proper pruning of jasmine can keep the plant strong, blooming and leafy. The flowers must be removed after they bloom, and two-thirds of the branch that has bloomed must be cut off, because the old branches of jasmine do not bloom, and only by pruning them will new branches emerge and bloom more flowers.
8. Jasmine can be propagated by cuttings, cut grafting, grafting and layering.

Ixora
It likes sunshine and warmth, but is not cold-resistant. It is suitable to be placed in sunny courtyards, roof gardens, and south-facing and west-facing balconies. When the lowest temperature in winter drops to 5℃, it should be moved indoors and placed in a sunny place on the windowsill for maintenance. It can safely overwinter if the room temperature is kept above 5℃. It can be taken out of the room when the temperature is stable above 10℃ in the next spring.
There is no need for shade in summer, and the stronger the sunlight, the more and brighter the flowers will be, but the water supply must be sufficient. It is also shade-tolerant and requires loose, well-drained, humus-rich, acidic soil.

Stone lotus
Echeveria is very strong and drought-resistant. You don't have to worry about not watering it for two consecutive months, because each of its leaves is like a reservoir, and the water is reserved for use in droughts. You can also check whether its leaf flesh is full. If it is shriveled, it means it needs watering.
It likes plenty of sunlight and is not afraid of scorching sun. The more it is exposed to the sun, the easier it is to bloom and the more beautiful the plant shape will be. It can tolerate partial shade but not too much shade, otherwise the leaves will be small and sparse, the stems will be long and weak, and the flowers will be few and colorless.
It is not selective about soil, but in fertile and loose soil, its leaves are thick and dense, and its flowers are colorful. It is drought-resistant and cold-resistant, and it can survive freezing at -10℃.

It takes a lot of skill to kill the purple spiderwort , but I don’t have that skill.
Prunus truncatula
Water: It likes moisture. Water once a day during the growing season to keep the soil moist and spray water on the leaves. Reduce the amount of water in winter.
Fertilizer: Apply liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing season.
Soil: Any soil.
Temperature: The suitable temperature for growth is 10-25℃, and the wintering temperature is around 5℃.
Light: Prefers partial shade, avoids strong sunlight.

Crinum
It is not resistant to scorching sun exposure, but slightly tolerant to shade. It needs to be placed under a shade shed in summer. It needs a lot of fertilizer and water during the growing period, especially before and after flowering and during the flowering period. Adequate water supply in summer to keep the pot soil moist; apply thin liquid fertilizer once a week, and apply superphosphate once before the flower stalk is pulled out. Cut off the pedicels in time after flowering. Move the potted flowers indoors in early September or late October and place them in a dry place with a temperature of about 10°C. No watering is required and fertilization is stopped. It likes soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, and well-drained. It is more tolerant to saline-alkali soil. Plant the bulbs in a 20-25 cm pot in March and April. It should not be too shallow, so that the bulbs cannot be seen. Water it fully after planting and place it in the shade. Ground-planted Crinum orchids should be transplanted once every 2-3 years to keep the plants strong and blooming luxuriantly, otherwise they will not grow vigorously and bloom sparsely.
1. Plant in a large pot and deep. In order to meet the nutrients required by Crinum orchid during its growth period, it should be planted in a larger pot and deep to conserve water and soil and provide for the development of the root system.
2. Water and fertilizer management. During the normal growth period of Crinum orchid, from May to September, water it every day in an appropriate amount, and water it when it is dry and wet. Fertilizer water made by fermenting oil cake residue and black alum (ferrous sulfate) should be applied every 7 to 10 days. The concentration should be light first and then concentrated. Stop applying in winter.
3. Remove bad buds. During the vigorous growth period of Crinum orchid, bad buds often grow around the rhizomes. In order to ensure that the plant is upright, the rhizomes are neat, and the whole plant grows normally, the bad buds should be removed in time.
4. Sunlight and shade. In order to make the leaves green, beautiful and neat without affecting the light, the Crinum orchid should be properly shaded in the hot summer. It should receive full sunlight from 7 am to 12 pm, and a shade shed should be built from 12 pm to 3 pm. It likes warmth and humidity, and is slightly shade-tolerant. It is salt-alkali-tolerant. It is not cold-tolerant and needs to overwinter indoors at a temperature not lower than 5℃ in winter.

orchid
1. Location
The location of orchids is very important, as it directly affects the growth and development of orchids. Orchids are generally placed outdoors in spring, summer, and autumn (in the shade in summer), and indoors in winter. It is best to have open space and humid air outdoors. There should be sufficient light indoors, preferably facing south. This is conducive to the growth of orchids. It is best to place orchid pots on wooden racks or tables, not on the ground.
The location of orchids is very important, as it directly affects the growth and development of orchids. Orchids are generally placed outdoors in spring, summer, and autumn (in the shade in summer), and indoors in winter. It is best to have open space and humid air outdoors. There should be sufficient light indoors, preferably facing south. This is conducive to the growth of orchids. It is best to place orchid pots on wooden racks or tables, not on the ground.
2. Most shade
orchids are semi-shade plants. Most species are afraid of direct sunlight and need proper shade. In early and mid-April, orchids can be exposed to more sunlight to promote their growth. After late April, they need to be properly shaded. Summer orchids and autumn orchids with upright leaves are best placed on the south side of the shade to allow them to receive more sunlight; autumn orchids and spring orchids with drooping leaves are best exposed to two hours of sunlight every day. From June to September, shade should be provided early every day. If reed curtains are used, dense curtains or two layers of sparse curtains can be used. After October, the weather turns cooler and the sunlight is weaker, so the shading of the vegetables can be postponed, but it is still necessary to pay attention to shade work around noon.

Orchids can be exposed to light rain, but should avoid mildew, showers or continuous rain. In the mildew season, special rain protection should be done. From late June to mid-September, there are frequent showers. If the rain is short and the rainfall is small, you should water more in the evening to let the heat in the pot out, otherwise the orchid will be damaged or even rot and die. If the sun comes out after the shower, you need to shade it in time to prevent the rising heat from the ground from affecting the growth of the orchid.
The rainy season is the stage when orchids are sprouting leaf buds. If the pot soil is too warm, it will cause poor growth of leaf buds or cause diseases. At this time, you can sprinkle a small amount of plant ash to adjust the humidity of the pot soil.
4. Watering
the flowers: "Dry orchids and wet chrysanthemums" is a proverb that makes sense. Generally speaking, orchids are best kept eight-tenths dry and two-tenths wet. If they are too wet, the flowers will easily rot and die. The principle of watering should be: water when dry, stop when wet, and keep the flowers slightly dry. When mastering the specifics, you should generally pay attention to the following: water more during the growing season (May to the end of June), water less during the leaf bud period (about March to April) and the flowering period (about March to April), and water less or no during the dormant period (winter). If the flowerpot is large and the orchid plant is small, water less; if the flowerpot is small and the plant is large, water more. Water more when the climate is hot and dry, and water less or no when the climate is cold and humid (such as the rainy season). If the orchids newly dug from the mountains have sparse roots or many broken roots, water less to make the pot soil a little dry, so as to prevent root rot and facilitate the growth of new leaves.
The ancients said: "Don't let it dry in autumn and don't let it get wet in winter", which is a good summary of how to water spring and summer orchids. However, in some areas in the north, due to the excessively dry climate in winter and early spring, orchids should not be too dry.
Watering time: In summer and autumn, water after sunset to dry the orchid leaves before nightfall. You can also water in the early morning. In winter and spring, water before and after sunrise. Do not water with cold water after being exposed to the sun, so as to avoid lowering the soil temperature, affecting the root system's water absorption, and disturbing the physiological balance. Do not water too much to prevent diseases.
Previous generations have summarized good experience in watering orchids. For example, Yu Zhao proposed different watering methods according to the 24 solar terms in "Du Men Yi Lan Ji". The following is an excerpt for reference. However, two points should be noted: first, "Du Men Yi Lan Ji" is based on the climate of Beijing; second, the months in the text refer to the lunar calendar rather than the Gregorian calendar, such as "the first month" is actually the second month of the Gregorian calendar.
January: Orchids like moisture and hate humidity, like dryness and hate dryness. Watering should be done in the morning this month, insecticide and sterilization should be done once each, and foliar fertilizer should be applied 1-2 times.
Note: Avoid cold winds and do not apply fertilizer this month.
February: Spring buds sprout, sterilize and kill insects every ten days, and apply thin fertilizers in between.
Note: Avoid excessive fertilizer concentration to damage buds and leaves.
March: Spring equinox, the weather is getting warmer. Cut off the branches and dead leaves that have been seen as soon as possible, and fertilize the leaves and the pot soil alternately, with light fertilizer being preferred. This month is the best time to divide orchids and repot them.
Note: Add organic fertilizer, increase lighting, and kill insects and sterilize.
April: Rainy season, sterilization and disease prevention are the most important things this month. Spray the leaves 1-2 times to remove dust from the leaves to facilitate photosynthesis.
Note: Prevent excessive rain and high temperature damage, and let the orchids receive more sunlight.
May: As the sun gets stronger, you should shade the plants appropriately and apply more fertilizer, but not too much. If you need to repot the plants, do it on a cloudy day.
Note: Prevent insects from appearing on new buds.
June: Summer heat begins to set in, and the white heart orchid and four-season orchid bloom day by day. Spray and water the leaves 1-2 times in the morning and evening. Pest control and sterilization should be carried out in the cool evening, and apply more thin fertilizer.
Note: It is not advisable to divide and repot at will.
July: Lesser Heat, Greater Heat season, water should be sprayed in the morning and evening, shade should be increased, organic fertilizer should be added, and watering should be done at night. Place a basin of water between orchid pots and sprinkle water on the wetland to cool down.
Note: To prevent the orchid from being damaged by extreme heat, ventilation should be ensured.
August: Starting from autumn, add organic fertilizer, disinfect and sterilize, and water at night. This month is the peak flowering period of chypre and four-season orchids, and nutrition should be supplemented after flowering.
Note: Avoid heatstroke and cool down.
September: The summer heat is at its peak, so you should spray more water and use normal dosage to kill insects and sterilize. The stalks of black orchids, spring orchids, and cymbidium orchids have emerged, so protect the buds.
Note: Orchids should not be exposed to the sun outdoors.

October: Increase the amount of light, increase the number of watering as needed, fertilize 2-3 times except for flowering plants, change pots and materials before the end of this month, spray and wash orchid leaves 1-2 times, and remove dust from the leaves.
Note: Strengthen sterilization to prevent orchids from overwintering with diseases.
November: When early frost comes, stop fertilizing, water and spray in the morning, kill insects and sterilize 2-3 times.
Note: Orchids that are afraid of cold should be gradually moved indoors.
December: Orchids enter hibernation, avoid repotting and fertilizing. Kill insects and sterilize 2-3 times, and water in the morning on sunny days.
Note: Prevent cold and frost.
Fertilizing orchids depends on the growth of orchids. Fertilizers can be applied to those that are growing vigorously and without diseases, but no fertilizer or only a small amount of fertilizer should be applied to those that are growing poorly. Do not use fertilizer on orchids that have just been dug from the mountains before new roots grow. Fertilizers can be applied only when new roots grow vigorously after 1-2 years of cultivation, otherwise they are prone to withering and death.

Meat (cactus, etc.)
1. Sunlight: It requires sufficient sunlight. If the cactus is placed indoors for a long time, it will not bloom without sunlight. The cactus needs a warmer environment. If the ambient temperature does not reach above 20 degrees, it will not bloom.
2. Watering: Do not water too much, which will make the soil too wet. It should be dry rather than wet. Especially in the dormant period of winter and summer, watering should be restrained.
3. Fertilization: Although cactus can tolerate barrenness and drought, it is not easy to bloom in the case of drought and lack of fertilizer. Therefore, appropriate water and fertilizer should be given during cultivation, and thin and well-rotted cake fertilizer should be applied every 10 days to half a month during the growing season. Do not apply too much fertilizer, as it will also cause no flowering.
4. Micro-environment: Pay attention to creating a local environment with suitable temperature and high humidity for the cactus. For example, you can use plastic film to make a closed shed on the windowsill and place the cactus in it for maintenance. It will not only grow faster, but also have bright colors and be easier to bloom.
The flower pots can be placed on the balcony with plenty of sunshine and good air circulation. Before the frost falls every year, they can be covered with plastic sheds to safely overwinter and avoid frost damage. After the Spring Festival and before the Qingming Festival, because the bulbs are large and have thorns, it is not easy to change the pots. Remove the old soil and replace it with 15% chicken manure; 10% bean cake, 10% old lime, 5% plant ash, 5% sawdust, 15% coarse sand or honeycomb coal slag, and 40% garden soil. During the growth period, add fertilizer and water in time, use bean cake liquid and fishy fertilizer water as topdressing, add 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate root spray, or apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and follow the principle of watering thoroughly when the soil is dry.
Black Pearl
It likes a warm and humid growing environment and has strong temperature adaptability. The optimum temperature for growth is 15-30℃, and not lower than 5℃ in winter; keep the pot soil moist; spray the leaves with appropriate moisture when the air is dry; apply a balanced formula slow-release fertilizer once every three months.
It is better to shade the plant and avoid direct sunlight. Indoor cultivation should be placed in a place with sufficient light.

asparagus
Asparagus fern likes warm, ventilated, semi-shaded and semi-humid environment. It is not cold-resistant and avoids direct sunlight. It is suitable for growing in sandy soil rich in humus and with good drainage.
The key to cultivating asparagus fern is watering. Excessive watering and too wet soil can easily cause root rot and yellow leaves to fall off; insufficient watering and too dry soil can easily cause the leaf tips to turn yellow, dry up and fall off. Therefore, watering should be based on the weather, growth and soil conditions. Water thoroughly when you water, and do not water halfway, that is, water only the surface of the soil while the lower soil is still dry.
When it is hot and dry, spray the leaves with water to increase humidity and reduce temperature. In winter, water less and keep the room temperature above 5 degrees.
Asparagus fern is afraid of smoke and dust, so it should be placed in a ventilated place.
1. Reasons why asparagus fern leaves turn yellow:
(1) Excessive light and direct sunlight can easily cause the leaves to turn yellow.
(2) Improper watering: Asparagus fern likes moisture but is afraid of waterlogging. It should be cultivated in sandy soil that is breathable and water-permeable.
(3) Insufficient fertilization Asparagus fern does not like fertilizer. Too much fertilizer will cause it to grow branches easily. However, if no fertilizer is applied for a long time, it will also cause nutrient deficiency. It should be fertilized with very dilute decomposed fertilizer once every half a month, and it should be watered and loosened in time after fertilization.
(4) Improper fertilization, such as using raw fertilizer or too concentrated fertilizer, will cause the leaves to fall off. In this case, you should rinse the potting soil with water to dilute it, or change the soil immediately to save it.
(5) Poor winter management: In winter, the plant should be placed in a sunny place indoors with the room temperature kept between 8 and 12 degrees. If the plant is placed in the shade for a long time and the room temperature is below 8 degrees, the leaves will turn yellow.
(6) Smoke and dust pollution Asparagus fern is most afraid of smoke and harmful gases. It should be placed in a well-ventilated place to avoid pollution. Water should also be sprayed on the leaves to wash away dust.
2. How to control the growth height of asparagus fern
Asparagus fern has soft leaves, bamboo-like branches, and an elegant and graceful posture, which is very popular among people. However, it is better to plant it in a low position in a pot. As the asparagus fern grows for more years, it sometimes grows taller and taller, becomes fierce and loses its elegance. The author takes advantage of the spring growth season of asparagus fern. If the new buds are too thick, they will be cut off immediately. The new buds will be smaller. Each time they are cut, they will be smaller until they are satisfactory. This method can achieve the purpose of controlling its growth height and always maintain a good plant shape.

Fragrant bird
It belongs to the Scrophulariaceae family and is an annual herbaceous flower.
Scrophulariaceae is relatively drought-resistant. When the drought is particularly severe, water it appropriately to avoid heavy waterlogging.
It has strong branching, compact and full plant shape, and does not require pinching.
This flower likes warmth, is resistant to high temperatures, has strong adaptability to air humidity, and likes light. No covering is required after planting.
Use peat as the medium, and use dwarfing agent to control the plant shape after two weeks. Fragrant bird has good branching ability and does not need to be pinched during the whole process.
Although the flowers of the sweet-scented bird of paradise are small, they are compact in shape, elegant in color, abundant in quantity, and bloom continuously, with a long viewing period. They are also highly adaptable to hot climates and are one of the excellent herbaceous flower varieties. They can be planted in the ground, in pots, or in a combination of containers.
Happy Tree
It likes a warm environment, and the optimal growth temperature is 20℃ to 30℃. During the hot summer, when the ambient temperature reaches above 30℃, it is necessary to build a shed to provide shade, increase the environment and leaf spraying, or move it to a ventilated and cool place with sparse shade to spend the summer. During the winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature of no less than 8℃, and the minimum should not be lower than 5℃ to avoid cold damage to leaves or leaf fall. For home potted plants, it can be moved to a room with air conditioning or electric heater to ensure that the room temperature is no less than 8℃ so that it can spend the winter safely.
Prune before budding during the Spring Festival.
The lucky tree is shade-tolerant and can grow in full sun or semi-shade environments. To prevent the potted lucky tree from growing too tall, watering can be properly controlled when new shoots emerge in spring, and the soil in the pot can be kept relatively moist. In addition to keeping the soil moist for potted plants displayed indoors, the plants should be sprayed with water 2 to 3 times a day during the hot season.
Use purified water for watering, because ordinary water is hard water. Over time, a lot of salt will accumulate in the pot, and the plant will die if it is kept for a long time. Don't water it every day, just let it dry and wet, but water it thoroughly. In winter, water it once every five or six days, and in summer, water it once every three days. You need to observe it yourself.

Clivia
Clivia belongs to the Amaryllis family and is a perennial evergreen herb. Its sword-like green leaves are broad and bright; its fire-like red flowers bloom gracefully, and the red and green complement each other, making it beautiful and eye-catching, making people yearn for it. Clivia is also suitable for indoor cultivation, and is an ideal precious flower for growing flowers in buildings, halls, museums, institutes and families. To grow Clivia well, you must first understand————
Clivia likes a cool and humid environment. It is afraid of strong sunlight in summer and cold in winter.
Spring: Avoid wind
In early spring, after hibernation, the root system of Clivia begins to recover. Due to the lack of nutrient supply, once exposed to wind and sun, the leaves will become dehydrated, making them less bright, harder and thicker, and even yellowing and rotting in severe cases. Therefore, it is more important to pay attention to this: Clivia is drought-tolerant but not moisture-tolerant, and the pot plant can be kept generally moist. Excessive watering will easily cause root rot. Avoid spraying water before the upper arrow blooms. Apply fully decomposed liquid fertilizer once a week or half a month, but follow the principle of "thin fertilizer and frequent application". Do not apply concentrated fertilizer or raw fertilizer to avoid leaf scorch and root rot.
Summer: Avoid sun exposure
Clivia is not very demanding on light. It likes semi-shade but is afraid of direct sunlight. Due to the high temperature and soil temperature in summer, the root system is easily disordered, and the absorption of nutrients is unbalanced, resulting in neck pulling and leaf sprouting. In addition, due to strong sunlight, transpiration is greatly increased. If watering is not done properly, the leaves will appear old, scorched, or even wilt. Therefore, the requirements for cultivation in midsummer are:
It is best to place the potted plants under a shade shed or tree to avoid direct sunlight at noon.
In addition to placing the potted plants in a cool and ventilated place, they should also be cooled by spraying water frequently. The temperature should be controlled below 25°C and the humidity should be between 60 and 70%.
When the temperature of Clivia is 25℃, it is necessary to reduce the amount of fertilizer or stop fertilizing. Excessive fertilization will burn the fleshy roots.
When the soil in the pot is semi-dry, you should water it, but make sure to water thoroughly and never let the water flow into the leaves to avoid heart rot.
Autumn: Avoid rain and water spray
As autumn approaches, the climate gradually becomes cooler. During the days of continuous autumn rain, adult Clivias have more opportunities to cut their arrows, lay seeds, and bloom. If they are exposed to rain or too much water at this time, it will cause root rot, arrow rot, and heart rot.
Therefore, when the upper arrow is blooming, avoid spraying water. Water it with decomposed cake fertilizer water (1:3) every half a month or so. When watering, prevent water from seeping into the center of the leaves, and do not let rain water fall into the leaves to avoid stamen rot. In severe cases, the whole plant will rot and die.
Winter: Avoid low temperature and dryness
In winter, when the temperature of Clivia is below 5℃, the humidity of the pot soil must be kept at about 70% to prevent it from being frostbitten due to dryness. If the moisture is less than 20%, it is susceptible to dryness and freezing and death.
Before the frost falls, the indoor plants should be placed in a sunny place indoors, and attention should be paid to preventing frost and keeping warm. After about half a month, the potted plants should be rotated 180° to facilitate the neat and beautiful growth of leaves.
In winter, when the indoor temperature is 6-7℃, it can safely overwinter. Apply fermented cake fertilizer once a month and liquid fertilizer every 10 days or so (nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied too much). Three months before flowering, apply liquid fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to promote its arrows and flowering.
In winter, Clivia enters a dormant period, and the amount of water evaporation is relatively reduced. The pot soil can be kept moist, but preferably slightly dry. Avoid frequent watering, water accumulation, or half-watering. Otherwise, it will cause scorched leaves or rotten roots.
During the year-round maintenance of Clivia, the potted plants should be sprayed with clean water frequently. It is best to wipe them dry with a fine cloth after spraying. This will not only increase the smoothness of the leaves, but also improve their ornamental value.

Daphne koreana
1. Avoid water stains. Daphne odora prefers shade and hates waterlogging. When potted, the amount of watering should be controlled. Do not water unless the soil is dry. Water thoroughly when the soil is dry. Do not water only partially, which will cause the soil to be wet on the top and dry on the bottom. If water accumulates, root rot and stem rot are likely to occur due to excessive moisture in the soil. You should remove the pot immediately, wash the roots, repot with clean and sterilized culture soil, and place it in a ventilated and cool place for maintenance.
2. Avoid concentrated fertilizer. Daphne odora likes fertilizer, but decomposed organic fertilizer is not good. The dosage should be less rather than more, and fertilizer should be applied frequently and sparingly. Generally, before flowering in winter, it is advisable to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers rich in organic matter. In spring, to promote the growth of more and stronger new branches, decomposed bean cake water or decomposed chicken and duck manure water can be applied. The water should be 50% before application.
3. Prevent scorching sun. Osmanthus fragrans is afraid of the hot summer sun. It should be placed on a cool and ventilated flower stand in the summer, or in a place without direct sunlight. It can be seen in full light after the autumnal equinox.
4. Protect against cold and frost. Daphne odora is a horticultural variant of Daphne odora, which has poor cold resistance. Potted plants should be moved indoors before the frost falls, and they can survive the winter smoothly as long as the room temperature is not lower than 5℃.
5. Prevent pests. The roots of Daphne koreana are fleshy and sweet, and are easily attacked by ants. In spring and summer, you should pay attention to regular observation and use drugs to remove any harm in time.

Royal
It is native to South Africa and prefers a warm, dry and sunny environment. It is tolerant to drought and partial shade but not to waterlogging.
Although it can grow in the shade, the distance between the stem nodes will become longer, the leaves will be large and thin, and dull, affecting the appearance. In the summer, it can be properly shaded to prevent exposure to the sun, and pay attention to ventilation.
During the growing period, water the soil only when it is dry, and water thoroughly when you do water to avoid waterlogging, otherwise it will cause root rot.
In winter, place it in a sunny place indoors, stop fertilizing, control watering, and the temperature should be above 10℃. The plant will not die at around 5℃, but the leaves will fall off in large numbers.
Repotting should be done every 2 to 3 years in spring. The potting soil should be sandy soil with medium fertility and good drainage and air permeability. Cut off part of the root system, remove 1/2 to 1/3 of the original soil, and replant with new culture soil.

Aloe Vera:
1. It likes heat and fears cold: Its suitable growth temperature is around 20℃. It will be frozen if the temperature is below zero, and its growth will almost stop at around 10℃. Therefore, it is best to plant it in a greenhouse in Wenzhou in winter. Those planted in pots should be placed in a south-facing, wind-proof, sunny place or indoors in winter to reduce frost damage.
2. Loose soil: Sandy soil is best. If it is sticky yellow mud, half sand should be added to promote looseness and breathability, which is beneficial for drainage.
3. Resistant to drought and avoid moisture: There is little water in the desert, so aloe vera is called a "plant that cannot be killed by drought". After being dug up, it will not dry up even if it is exposed to the sun for a few days, so not watering or less watering will not have much impact. However, water accumulation in the soil will often cause the roots to rot and drown.
4. Likes sunshine: There are almost no rainy days in the desert, and there is strong sunshine all day long. The planting area should be exposed to the sun. If it is placed in a place without sunlight for a long time, it will grow small and weak.
5. Proper Fertilization: It can grow with less fertilizer, but with proper fertilizer, it grows vigorously.

Vinca roseus:
It likes warm and humid climate, likes sunshine, tolerates partial shade, avoids moisture and waterlogging, and is relatively drought-resistant. It requires fertile, well-drained sandy loam. The key to its cultivation should be:
①Sow seeds in the open field seedbed in early to mid-April in spring. When the seedlings grow and have 6 true leaves, they should be transplanted in the open field or in pots.
②After planting, fertilizer and water management needs to be strengthened to promote early growth.
③During the growth period, the plant needs to be pinched 2 to 3 times to promote more branches.
④ Catharanthus roseus likes sunshine. When potted, it should be placed outdoors in a sunny place during the growing season. Apply compound liquid fertilizer once every 10 to 15 days, and keep the potting soil moist at all times.
⑤ In winter, it should be moved indoors and placed in a sunny place to overwinter. The minimum temperature should be maintained above 5℃ and watering should be controlled. If the room temperature is kept above 15~20℃, it can bloom continuously.
1. Yellow leaves phenomenon:
1. Yellowing of the leaves. Excessive watering leads to poor root respiration, which is mainly manifested in the old leaves being fine and the new leaves being tender yellow;
2. Drought yellowing. Long-term watering is not thorough, and only the surface soil is wet. The main manifestation is that the new leaves wilt and the old leaves turn yellow and fall off;
3. Yellowing. I came up with this term myself. It is mainly caused by using ordinary loess for planting, which is highly sticky, poorly permeable and breathable. There is no obvious problem in the seedling and growth period in spring, but after growing into strong seedlings, the root system is well developed and penetrates deep into the pot soil. The poor permeability and breathability of the soil causes poor breathing of the lower roots, resulting in frequent yellowing and falling leaves. This phenomenon is most obvious in the spring of potted soil;
4. Fertilizer and yellow. I have tried to bury fish intestines directly in the pot, which caused root burn, which was mainly manifested in the whole plant being sluggish in spring, slow growth, less flowering, and smaller petals;
5. Alkali yellowing. Recently, I had a pot of spring weeping plant with inexplicably yellow leaves. After ruling out the above four reasons, I finally found the problem when I repotted it. The soil used to plant it was the soil from the flower shop when I bought the pot. I didn’t check it carefully. When I repotted it, I found that there was a small amount of cement slag in the soil (probably the soil that the flower merchant got at the demolition site). I tested it with pH test paper and found that the pH value of the soil was close to 7.0, which exceeded the maximum limit of pH6.5 that Chunchun could accept. It seems that the excessive alkalinity of the soil was the direct cause of the yellow leaves of this spring weeping plant. See the picture below
2. Problems of stem withering and leaf curling during the growth period of Catharanthus roseus seedlings
During winter and spring sowing, it is often encountered that the leaves of young vinca seedlings suddenly curl and the stems wither. After analyzing the reasons, it was found that this phenomenon occurred after the seedlings were watered, and it occurred within a few hours after watering. It should not be caused by vinca seedlings infected with damping-off disease, because damping-off disease cannot occur within just a few hours.
In my opinion, it is probably because there is a large difference between the temperature of the water used and the temperature of the potting soil. Some seedlings with weaker root systems are suddenly stimulated by the large temperature difference, causing their leaves to curl. Those with very weak root systems stop growing directly, and their stems slowly wither and die.
The experience introduced online that leaves curling upwards means too much water and leaves curling downwards means lack of water is only suitable for mature seedlings. This problem occurs in seedlings mainly in seedlings with weak root systems. Some strong seedlings will not have problems with curling leaves and withering stems even if they are stimulated with cold water.
After many attempts, I finally found a way to solve the problem of curled leaves of vinca seedlings after watering. Place the seedlings with curled leaves in a place with sufficient scattered light but not direct sunlight, stop watering, and let the leaves slowly unfold after about three days of acclimatization. After that, avoid excessive moisture on the topsoil and use the squatting method to encourage its weak roots to grow downward.
3. Solutions to common problems during the germination period of Catharanthus roseus
(1) It is difficult to remove the cap after germination: This is mainly caused by the seeds being buried too shallowly in the soil. This problem can be avoided by properly burying them deeply. Or spray water directly on the cap, wait for about 10 minutes until the bud cap becomes soft, and gently pick it off with a toothpick;
(ii) Yellowing of cotyledons after germination: Most of the reasons are that the seeds were buried too shallowly, resulting in shallow roots of the seedlings. Direct sunlight causes the topsoil to be too dry, causing the cotyledons to turn yellow. This is not a big problem. Pay attention to watering and wait until the seedlings gradually develop roots.
(3) The seedlings grow slowly after germination: This is mainly caused by low temperature. Before the true leaves grow out, you can often use rice water for watering. After two or three pairs of true leaves grow out, you can use a very dilute nitrogen fertilizer (such as Biwang) once a week.
(IV) Severe leggy growth of seedlings: This is mainly caused by excessive soil moisture and lack of sunlight. In winter and spring, seedlings can be moved to direct sunlight after emerging from the soil. In this season, there will be no problem of seedlings being killed or sunburned (as long as they are not sprayed).

Rose:
The sunshine must be long. The place where roses are planted must be well ventilated and receive more than half a day of sunshine. This is the primary condition for them to bloom profusely. If they are placed in a semi-shaded and semi-sunny place or in a shady place with insufficient light, they can only bloom twice a year at most. Therefore, if the living conditions cannot meet the light requirements, it is best not to plant roses but to plant flowers that prefer shade instead.
1. Prune frequently. Prune the roses after December every year when the leaves fall. The remaining branches should be about 15 cm high. The pruning position should be about 1 cm above the leaf buds that extend outwards. At the same time, prune the side branches, diseased branches and concentric branches. After May, prune the branches that have bloomed to 2/3 or 1/2 of the branch that has bloomed. This will give more opportunities for regeneration of flower buds. If you want the flowers to bloom larger, you can also pick some of them when there are many buds. This can not only concentrate the nutrients, but also achieve the purpose of extending the flowering period and blooming in batches.
2. Fertilization should be frequent and timely. Generally, newly planted or transplanted potted roses can be cultivated with humus and loose loess. It is best to mix it with 1/4 rice husk ash or a little broad bean shell, bean cake or chicken and pigeon manure, so that the rose can continuously absorb various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium from the soil. If you do not change the pot, you can dig up 2-3 cm of the soil surface and add some fresh fish intestines or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as base fertilizer. This is best done when the rose is dormant in January and February. After May is the peak growth season for roses. Every 10 days, topdressing should be applied once. You can use decomposed and fermented fish juice and Amway calcium magnesium tablets vegetable leaf juice, mixed in a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water, and stop fertilizing in November.
3. Early spring management. The most important work at this time is pruning. In tropical areas, it is in late February. Pruning is generally done by cutting to about 1/3 of the plant height. First, remove weak branches, diseased branches and dead branches. The new branches that the plant has grown in previous years are the most vigorous. Select such main branches and leave 2 to 3 or at most 5 branches. According to the original growth of the plant, it is usually pruned with branch shears at a height of about 50 cm from the ground and 1 cm above the strong buds.
The middle part of the main branches that are 2 to 3 years old is where new buds often appear, so when pruning, only 10 to 20 cm is needed.
4. After the sting, the insects wake up from hibernation and start to move. At this time, dissolve 10 ml of fenitrothion (insecticide) and 20 grams of wettable sulfur powder used to treat powdery mildew in 10 liters of water, and spray the plants with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Since the roses have not yet grown leaves, there is no need to worry about pesticide damage.
5. Management during the summer. Strengthening the management of potted roses in summer and carrying out rejuvenation maintenance can break the dormancy period and make them bloom continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are: shade and ventilation. The soil of potted roses is limited, and it is easy to get hot and dry in hot weather, so the roses must be shaded and cooled. It is best to put the potted flowers under the trees or trellises in the yard from 8 am to 4 pm to allow the potted flowers to receive scattered light and create suitable environmental conditions for the growth and flowering of the roses. Apply more fertilizer and water. Spray more water. Thin branches and prune
6. Basal fertilizer has been applied in December, and topdressing is not required in early spring. When the buds emerge, sprinkle appropriate amount of fertilizer around the roots to promote germination. After the buds emerge, if the ground is dry on a sunny day, water can be added in the morning or before noon to prevent the ground from freezing.
Pruning tips: timely removal of rose flower residues can help concentrate nutrients, keep the plant strong and keep flowering. If the flower residues are not removed in time, several axillary buds close to the flower residues will often sprout, forming weak branches. These small branches not only consume nutrients but also destroy the plant shape. Even if they can bloom, they are mostly deformed or inferior flowers. In addition, except for flowers for seed collection, do not let the flower residues bear fruit.
After the first batch of flowers bloom, medium branches should be cut in the middle, leaving 3 to 4 buds on the branches; weak branches should be cut heavily, leaving 1 to 2 buds; strong branches should be lightly pruned, leaving 5 buds, and growth should be appropriately inhibited. The second pruning should be light, only cutting below the second leaf under the residual flower, and preserving the axillary bud of the second leaf, which is a bud with the best advantage in growth and development, and is in the upper position of the whole plant. Cutting off this bud will affect the next flowering period, flower quality and plant growth.
After the beginning of autumn, pruning after flowering (the third batch of flowers) is done by cutting in the middle, leaving 3 to 4 buds on each branch. To balance the plant shape, you can also go back to the branches of the last batch of flowers and cut up and down. It is necessary to cut off overlapping branches, crossed branches, overcrowded branches, and long branches to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and a symmetrical plant shape.
The pruning of roses after flowering should also be combined with controlling the flowering period. Roses used for National Day can be pruned 45 days before flowering, leaving 3 to 4 buds in the middle, and then 2 small branches will be drawn on each branch. After pruning, increase fertilizer and water, pay attention to waterlogging and powdery mildew prevention, and the flowers will bloom in late September.