Flower planting methods

　　Planting includes transplanting and planting in place. The methods are the same. Planting in place means that the plant is not moved after planting, while transplanting is a cultivation measure before planting in place, which changes the planting distance of the plant to adapt to its growth needs.

　　1. Transfer tank

　　Transplanting is done to increase the spacing between seedlings of various sizes, so that the seedlings can get enough nutrition, light and air. At the same time, the main root of the seedling is cut off during transplanting, which can make the seedling produce more lateral roots and form a well-developed root system, which is beneficial to its growth.

　　Before transplanting, seedlings should generally be thinned out, removing overly dense, weak, or diseased seedlings. Thinned seedlings can also be replanted. Seedlings planted in the ground are transplanted for the first time when they have 4-5 true leaves. Seedlings sown in pots are usually transplanted when they have 1-2 true leaves. The spacing between plants and rows depends on the size of the seedlings, their growth rate, and the period they remain in the nursery after transplanting. The preparation of the transplanting bed is basically the same as for the sowing bed. The soil should be kept appropriately moist during transplanting; generally, transplanting should be done when the soil is dry. However, excessively dry soil can cause seedlings to wilt. Water the bed the day before planting, and transplant when the soil has absorbed water, swelled, and is no longer sticky. Wet soil is not only inconvenient to handle, but also causes soil compaction after planting, which is detrimental to seedling growth. Do not press the soil too tightly during transplanting to avoid damaging the roots. Allow the soil particles to settle with the water during watering, ensuring close contact with the roots. Transplanting is best done on a windless, overcast day. If the weather is sunny, bright, and hot, transplanting is best done in the evening. Before transplanting, distinguish the varieties to avoid mixing. When digging up the seedlings, cut the taproot without damaging the root hairs, transplanting with as much protective root hair as possible. Digging and planting should be coordinated; plant immediately after digging. If it is windy and evaporation is strong, cover and shade the young seedlings after digging them up. The transplanting hole should be slightly larger to allow the roots to spread comfortably. The planting depth should be the same as the original planting depth, or 1-2 cm deeper. Too shallow and the seedlings are prone to lodging; too deep and they will not develop well. Water thoroughly immediately after planting, and water again to ensure sufficient moisture. In dry weather, water while planting. In the early stages of summer transplanting, provide shade to reduce evaporation and prevent wilting.

　　2. Planting

　　Planting involves transplanting large seedlings, potted seedlings, stored bulbs, and perennials and flowering plants to locations where they will not be moved. Before planting, the soil structure should be improved, pH adjusted, and drainage improved according to the needs of the plants. Generally, plants require fertile, loose, and well-drained soil. Fertilizer can be mixed in during land preparation or applied to the bottom of the planting hole after digging. The spacing between plants should be determined based on the size of the mature plant or the desired planting arrangement. When digging up seedlings, the root ball should generally be intact. Seedlings should not be dug up in soil that is too wet or too dry. The amount of soil to retain depends on the size of the root system. Tree species planted during dormancy do not need to retain soil. Evergreen shrubs and species that are difficult to transplant must retain a complete root ball, which should be tied securely with straw rope. When planting, a planting hole should be dug, which should be larger and deeper than the root system or root ball of the seedling. The base of the seedling should be raised close to the soil surface, and the seedling should be placed upright in the hole. Then, when about 2/3 of the soil around the seedling has been shoveled into the hole, shake the seedling to ensure close contact between the soil particles and the roots. Press the soil firmly around the roots, and finally fill the hole with loose soil, making it level with the ground but slightly concave. Water twice immediately after planting. For herbaceous flower seedlings, water again the day after planting. Bulbous flowers generally do not require watering initially; however, if the soil is too dry, water thoroughly once. When planting large perennials and herbaceous plants, prune the roots, removing any damaged, rotten, or dead roots. After planting large saplings, provide support or use ropes at three opposite corners to prevent them from tipping over.

　　Potted flower planting methods

　　Potted flowers can be moved around freely depending on the needs of garden landscaping and indoors. However, because their growth is restricted by the flowerpot, they require relatively meticulous care and management.

　　1. Intrapelvic transplantation

　　Young seedlings sown in pots sometimes need to be transplanted for the first time within the pot itself. A 30 cm diameter pot can hold about 60 seedlings. The medium is similar to the potting soil used for sowing. If the seedlings are too crowded, transplanting is generally done when they have their first true leaf, or immediately after the cotyledons have unfolded. The spacing between seedlings should be 1-2 cm. Use a pointed bamboo chopstick to dig out the seedling, then use it to insert a hole and plant the seedling in the hole. The planting depth should be appropriate, ensuring the cotyledons and growing point are not buried. Then, spray water with a fine mist or use the bottom-watering method until the soil in the pot is completely saturated. Remove the pot and place it in a semi-shaded area. Before using the bottom-watering method, ensure the drainage holes are properly sealed and the medium is compacted; otherwise, the medium will loosen and overflow when water is applied.

　　2. Potting

　　(1) Preparing the studio

　　The workshop should have a workbench, shelves for storing potting soil and flower pots, and a vehicle for transporting potted plants.

This can improve work efficiency. Also, prepare broken pieces of pottery beforehand to line the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

　　(2) Operation

　　① Place the pot as a base: Cover the drainage hole with broken pot shards (at least 3 pieces), with the concave side facing down. This should block the drainage hole but prevent soil from clogging it, allowing water to drain slowly. When using sill or similar bottom-watering methods, there's no need to place a base at the bottom of the pot. Instead, place a layer of absorbent material, such as sphagnum moss, at the bottom of the pot to absorb water and prevent soil overflow.

　　② Potting process: In a pot lined with broken tiles, first add coarse-grained medium to ensure good drainage. Then, hold the seedling upright in the center of the pot, ensuring the correct planting depth. With your other hand, add more growing medium, filling the gaps around the roots until the pot is full. The planting depth should be appropriate for the size of the seedling. Then, shake the pot and press the medium firmly with your fingers, ensuring the medium surface is 1-2 cm below the rim. After potting, water thoroughly immediately until water drains from the bottom hole. Water again after the water has been absorbed. Newly potted seedlings should be shaded and generally require 3-7 days to resume growth.

　　3. Repotting

　　Repotting involves moving potted plants from a small pot to a larger one, but sometimes only the soil is changed without changing the pot itself. The repotting method is the same as potting.

　　(1) Situations where potted plants need to be repotted

①The seedlings have grown taller, and their fibrous roots have emerged from the drainage holes.

② After the plant has gone dormant, it should be repotted, the soil replaced, and any rotten roots cleaned before it resumes growth.

③ The seedlings have grown too large and need to be divided.

④ If the potted plant has been in the pot for 2-3 years, the potting soil needs to be replaced.

　　(2) Turning the pot over

　　Repotting involves removing the seedling from its original pot. Do not water the plant before repotting; allow the soil to dry slightly so the soil ball can be easily removed intact. When repotting, support the pot with one hand and gently tap the edge of the pot with your fist to allow the soil ball to come out on its own. If using a large pot, place it on its side on a block of wood and gently tap the edge to loosen the soil ball. Then, support the soil ball with your hand and remove it from the pot. If using a large container, two people are needed. First, use a bamboo skewer to remove soil from the edge of the pot before repotting. When repotting, hold the plant firmly to prevent damage from the soil ball.

　　(3) Mud ball treatment

　　Remove some soil from the top and sides of the plant, as well as any broken pot shards from the bottom. Trim any excessively long or damaged roots before repotting. If the pot is full of newly grown white roots, it can be completely transplanted into a larger pot. For large, multi-year-old potted plants with intricate root systems, it is often necessary to use a bamboo skewer to remove the soil between the roots before repotting. For certain precious species with fleshy roots, such as orchids, peonies, and clivias, the roots should be washed and allowed to air dry after repotting. If the pots are placed in an outdoor nursery bed, a black plastic film should be laid down to prevent weeds from growing, earthworms from entering the drainage holes, and soil from clogging the drainage holes.