Basic knowledge of home potted flower cultivation

　　As the saying goes, "A room does not need to be big to be elegant, as long as there are many flowers to make it fragrant." Putting some flowers and plants indoors, with green leaves and flowers, and evergreen all year round, is really full of spring and vitality.

　　When raising flowers at home, potted plants are generally the main type. Due to limited conditions, do not plant too many, 10 to 15 pots are appropriate. The flowers you choose should preferably include foliage flowers, flowering flowers, fruit flowers, fragrant flowers, and ornamental flowers, so that the varieties are rich and diverse.

　　If you plant flowers at home mainly for decorating your home, you can plant more foliage plants suitable for indoor planting, such as the rubber tree, Schefflera arborvitae, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum, Areca palm, bamboo palm, miniature coconut palm, Aspidistra, Chlorophytum comosum, Green ivy, Asparagus fern, Clivia, etc. These flowers and trees are shade-tolerant and only need weak light or scattered light to grow normally.

　　If you plant flowers at home for the purpose of viewing, you can plant more flower-viewing, fruit-viewing, stem-viewing flowers and bonsai, such as rose, camellia, azalea, Milan, jasmine, hibiscus, pomegranate, kumquat, Buddha belly bamboo, lucky bamboo, cycad, five-needle pine, elm stump, banyan stump, etc.

　　When planting flowers at home, you should also consider the combination of flower varieties for the four seasons.

　　In spring, flowering plants are the main ones, such as camellia, azalea, plum blossom, daffodil, winter jasmine, etc., with some foliage plants and rock bonsai.

　　In summer, mainly use fragrant flowers and cool-colored flowers, such as white orchid, Milan, jasmine, iris, hydrangea, etc., with some foliage plants and herbaceous flowers;

　　In autumn, fruit-viewing plants are the main ones, such as pomegranate, pyracantha, kumquat, daidai, potted grapes, etc., with some colorful leaf plants, such as liquidambar, poinsettia, triangular maple, red maple, feather maple, ginkgo, golden peach leaf coral, etc., and some grass flowers and tree stump bonsai;

　　In winter, foliage plants are the main focus, with some seasonal flowers and rock bonsai. Foliage plants should be evergreen and cold-resistant, such as cycads, bamboo palms, areca palms, rubber trees, rubber trees, spring feathers, spider plants, spider plants, etc. Seasonal flowers include cyclamen, clivia, poinsettia, amaryllis, cineraria, primrose, daffodils, etc.

　　If you need to purify the indoor air at night, you should choose succulent plants, such as cactus, prickly pear, mountain shadow boxing, Christmas cactus, and swallowtail plant. These plants can absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen at night. They are drought-resistant and evergreen all the year round, but not cold-resistant. As long as they avoid exposure to the sun in summer, keep warm in winter, and keep the soil in the pots dry, they can grow normally.

　　If the indoor space is small, you can choose small potted flowers and hanging plants, such as asparagus, cyclamen, miniature roses, African violets, striped haworthia, lithops, saxifrage, hanging bamboo plum, etc., which can beautify the home environment without taking up too much space. These plants are relatively easy to maintain.　

　　Clivia is a perennial herbaceous plant that is evergreen all year round and is mainly used for viewing leaves. The amount of oxygen released by its leaves during photosynthesis is dozens of times that of other flowers. It is the king of indoor greening and beautification. 4-6 hours of light per day is sufficient. It requires an environment with appropriate temperature, loose soil, sufficient nutrients, good drainage and ventilation.

　　Substrate: 1. Use decomposed oak leaves, pine needles and river sand in a ratio of 6:2:2.

　　2 Coarse sawdust (electric shavings) and slag (river sand) are used in a ratio of 8:2.

　　3. Slag and rice husk (carbonized) are used together in a ratio of 2:8.

　　Clivia is the most fertilizer-loving flower. The commonly used fertilizers are mainly the following:

　　Hemp seeds, sunflower seeds and other oil-bearing crop seeds are fried or cooked and buried at the bottom of the flower pot or around the top of the flower pot, with the surface buried about two centimeters from the substrate. Do not allow fertilizers to come into direct contact with the substrate to avoid burning the roots during fermentation. Fertilizers that have already been fermented can be mixed with the substrate for use. Sesame, soybeans, freshwater fish, and rotten fruits are fermented with water and used as topdressing. Dilute with water when applying. The water-fertilizer ratio should be more than 10 times, and it is better to apply frequently and lightly. Stop fertilizing when the temperature is above 30 degrees or below 10 degrees. It is better to apply liquid fertilizer to newly planted Clivia after one month.

　　The amount of watering and the interval time should be flexibly controlled according to the different air permeability of the substrate and flower pot, as well as the temperature and humidity of the air. When the temperature is low, the humidity is high, and the air permeability of the flower pot and substrate is low, it is appropriate to water thoroughly once every ten days. Otherwise, it is appropriate to water once every five days. When the temperature is high, small seedlings under two years old should be watered in the morning and evening.

　　Clivia does not like strong light, and does not require long hours of light exposure. It can only be shaded from November to February each year. From March to May, 30% shade nets are needed for shade. From June to August, 70% shade nets are needed for shade. From September to October, 30% shade nets are needed for shade. Due to the differences in the age of greenhouses, the light transmittance of the glass is different and needs to be flexibly controlled according to the situation. In the family room or balcony, the above principles can be used as appropriate.

　　The ideal growth temperature is between 15 and 25 degrees, and it can grow normally between 10 and 30 degrees. It grows slowly between 0 and 10 degrees. It enters a dormant state above 30 degrees. Moreover, when the temperature is above 30 degrees and the humidity is high, various fungi will multiply in large numbers and cause Clivia diseases. The minimum temperature required for winter warmth is 10 degrees. In summer, it is better to keep the temperature below 30 degrees. In addition to using a high-density shading net to cool down in summer, it is also necessary to strengthen indoor ventilation and sprinkle floating water in the morning and evening.

　　A flower pot with good air permeability is needed, so most of the flower pots currently use yellow clay. The thinner the pot wall, the better. If the cultivation medium is water-permeable and has excellent air permeability, such as coarse sawdust, electric shavings, rice husks, slag and river sand, you can choose beautiful porcelain pots and purple sand pots. Clay pots are mainly used for large-scale breeding.

　　Asexual reproduction is to grow buds on the rhizomes of the mother plant for many years. When several roots grow at the bottom of the bud, you can divide the plant. Just break it off with your hands. Then plant it in coarse sawdust, electric shavings, pine needles and river sand. New roots will grow in about a month. The wounds during division can be coated with methyl mopkin powder, dried and planted. The characteristics of the buds are basically the same as those of the mother plant. The possibility of mutation is very small.

　　After two years of growth, small seedlings will grow around the roots of Clivia. When the leaves grow to 10 to 15 cm, they can be cut off from the mother plant with a sharp knife. If the roots cannot be cut off, apply vitamin B12 solution or plant ash to the incision, and then plant it in a pot with sterilized fine river sand. Cover the mouth of the pot with a transparent white plastic bag, keep the pot soil humidity at 90%, and the temperature at 15-25℃. Place it in a semi-shaded place and it will take root in 20 to 30 days. The management after rooting is the same as that of conventional seedlings. Promote more divisions of the mother plant: Some excellent varieties have fewer divisions, generally 1 to 10 divisions a year. In order to make the mother plant more divisions, you can use a knife to peel half of the main side root of the mother plant or insert a pin in the middle of the root to stimulate its regeneration power, and often water the heart leaves to inhibit its growth. In this way, a good Clivia variety can reproduce 3 to 5 plants a year, and some can divide into 7 to 10 plants. Division time: All seasons are possible, but February to May and September to October are the most suitable, depending on the size of the daughter plants. If the daughter plants are too small, they will grow slowly after division; if the daughter plants are too large, they will affect the growth of the mother plants. Management of the mother plants: After division, apply plant ash to the wounds of the mother plants, control the water content appropriately within one month, and apply more fertilizers to make them grow strong.

　　Pests and diseases and their control

　　Red spot disease is mainly caused by fungi, molds or viruses. The main symptoms are small yellow or red dots on the surface and back of the leaves, which gradually expand. When the disease first occurs, add methyl mopkin or thiophanate-methyl powder to about 500 times water to make a solution and spray it on the leaves. In severe cases, use this solution to irrigate the roots. Soft rot is mainly caused by bacterial infection. The symptoms are dark brown water-soaked spots at the base of the leaves when the disease first occurs. And it quickly spreads to the entire leaf. In severe cases, it causes the heart leaves to rot and causes the entire Clivia to "wipe its head". When the disease first occurs, use methyl mopkin and slaked lime powder to apply to the axils on both sides of the diseased leaves. And use toilet paper to separate this leaf from the adjacent leaves. In severe cases, remove all leaves. Keep the heart leaves from infection. Dry the wound and sprinkle methyl mopkin powder, and use agricultural streptomycin or methyl mopkin to add 500 times water to make a solution to irrigate the roots. If there is a problem with the roots, you need to change the pot and replace the new substrate for replanting. Root rot is mainly caused by excessive fertilization and infection by various fungi. In mild cases, use chlorothalonil to irrigate the roots. In severe cases, remove the rotten roots, dry them, repot them, and replant them with new substrate. If all the roots are rotten, as long as the rhizomes are not completely rotten, scrape the diseased parts of the rhizomes with a knife, apply carbendazim, dry them, and plant them in gravel or pine needles. New buds will sprout in about a month.

　　Most of the diseases of Clivia are caused by high temperature, high humidity, large-scale reproduction of various fungi, insect pests and human or mechanical damage. Therefore, creating a ventilated environment with a temperature not exceeding 30 degrees and a humidity below 70% is an effective way to prevent and control Clivia. In addition, before the arrival of high temperature weather in April every year, use agricultural streptomycin, special effect sterilization king and DuPont Wanling (insecticide) with 800 times water to make a liquid to spray the whole Clivia plant, once every 10 days, and three times is appropriate. This can play a preventive role.

　　One-year-old seedlings usually have about 6 leaves. At this time, the characteristic of cultivation management is to separate the seedlings that are raised together into separate pots. The temperature of the seedlings should be around 20℃, and attention should be paid to lighting and ventilation. In summer, the temperature is high and the pots for seedlings are small and easy to dry out. Therefore, when it is particularly hot, the seedlings should be watered once in the morning and evening to maintain the humidity of the pot soil. Fertilization can be applied after the seedlings are separated into pots. The concentration of fertilizer should be low, and it is generally applied once every half a month.

　　Management of Biennial Mid-Orchids The biennial mid-orchid stage is from the seedling stage to the full two years of the Clivia. At this time, it reaches about 13 leaves, and the plant shape is stable and various indicators have been determined. Management at this time is the main period for the cultivation of Clivia, which has higher requirements for soil, water, temperature, light, fertilizer, etc. Biennials need to change the nutrient soil once in spring and autumn, and change to a larger flower pot. When changing the soil, first fill the pot with 1/5 thick nutrient soil, hold the root system of the plant with your hand to fill the root core with soil, do not let the soil fall out, and put it in the pot. Fill the soil around and compact it. The plant is placed in the middle, that is, do not expose the rhizome and do not bury it too deep. The correct position of the soil is buried between the rhizome and the pseudobulb.

　　Management of Clivia After a growth period of more than two years, Clivia enters the reproductive growth stage and can bloom and bear fruit. This is called a mature orchid. After entering the reproductive growth period, Clivia needs a large amount of nutrition supply. It not only needs to grow and develop, but also needs to shoot arrows, bloom, and bear fruit. If it is malnourished, the plant will be weak, the flowers will be few, the flowering period will be delayed, and the fruit will be few. In order to make the Clivia in the mature period thrive, it is necessary to strengthen various management, especially pay attention to the supply of fertilizers, apply potassium fertilizers regularly, and increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. To ensure that the plants bloom on schedule, the flowers are large and colorful, and the fruit setting rate is high. When the mature orchid is shooting arrows, it is necessary to maintain a suitable temperature and temperature difference and sufficient water to prevent the occurrence of arrow pinching.

　　Management during the flowering period: Clivia blooms mostly in winter. During this period, appropriate measures should be taken to ensure its normal flowering, pollination, and fruit setting. This is a very important period.

　　Reproduction method

　　Asparagus fern can be propagated by sowing and division. The seeds mature gradually from December to April of the following year, and the mature berries are purple-red. When the fruit changes color, the seeds are harvested in time, and the seed coat is removed, the seeds are dried, and then sown on a substrate mixed with equal amounts of river sand and leaf mold, covered with soil (not too thick), watered thoroughly, and kept moist. At a temperature of 20-30℃, it will germinate in about a month. When the seedling is more than 5 cm tall, it can be transplanted into a small pot. -Generally, 3-5 year old plants grow densely and can be propagated by division. Division is generally carried out in spring. Use a sharp knife to divide the clustered stems and roots into 2-3 clusters, so that each cluster contains 3-5 branches and buds, and then plant them in pots separately. Try to avoid damaging the root system when dividing the plant, and pay attention to moisturizing and shading after division.　　

　　Asparagus fern shape

　　1. Seed propagation The berries of asparagus fern mature in winter. When the berries turn purple-black, they can be harvested. After harvesting the berries, rub off the outer peel and take out the seeds. Rinse and sow. If the room temperature is below 15°C, you should wait until spring to sow. During this period, you should store and sow in sand. Indoor pot sowing is the main method. Generally, dot sowing is done in shallow pots with a seed spacing of 2 cm. The soil should not be too deep. After soaking, cover with glass or film to reduce water evaporation, keep the pot soil moist, and place it in a sunny place. After sowing, keep the temperature at around 20°C. It will germinate in 25 to 30 days. At 15°C to 18°C, it will take 30 to 40 days to germinate. When the seedlings grow to 3 cm to 4 cm high, they can be divided and transplanted.

　　2. Division propagation should be carried out when repotting in spring. Dig up the roots and do not damage them too much. Choose a pot or plant them in the ground according to the size of the plant. Water thoroughly after division and place in semi-shade or shade. Watering should be properly controlled in the future, otherwise it will easily cause yellow leaves.

　　Plastic surgery method　　

　　Asparagus fern shape

　　As living standards improve, people's taste for living environment is getting higher and higher. Asparagus fern has beautiful leaves and is elegant and refined, it is often placed in pots on bookshelves, desks, and coffee tables to beautify the room. However, due to its rapid growth, its small and beautiful appearance often cannot last long, so it must be shaped. The shaping methods are introduced as follows:

　　1. Pot control method: The size ratio of the flowerpot to the plant should be 1:3. This can limit the growth of the root system and keep the plant size unchanged.

　　2. Remove the growth point: When the new buds grow to 2-3 cm, remove the growth point. This can promote the regeneration of branches and leaves on the stem, and control the growth of vines, making the branches and leaves grow flat and the plant shape continue to be fuller.

　　3. Take advantage of the phototropism of asparagus fern: By rotating the direction of the flowerpot at the right time, you can correct the growth shape of the branches and leaves and keep the plant shape unchanged.

　　4. Object covering method: Use cardboard to press down the branches and leaves or block the sunlight, so that when the branches and leaves grow, they will touch the objects and the stems will turn or bend to grow, thus achieving the purpose of shaping.　　

　　Asparagus fern shape

　　5. Comprehensive application of several modeling methods:

　　(1) Tower type: Select 2-3 tall, upright and beautiful stems as the main peak, remove all growth points on the stems, and set the plant height to 30-35 cm. The remaining branches and new stems should not be higher than the main peak. For new buds, decide whether to remove the growth points based on the thickness of their stems. If their stems are thicker than the main peak, they should be removed. If they are thinner than the main peak, they do not need to be removed and can be allowed to grow. At the same time, it is necessary to use the method of physical shading and its own phototropism to continuously adjust the plant shape.

　　(2) Double cluster style: Plant two asparagus ferns in a pot, one tall and one short. The tall one is about 30 cm and the short one is about 18 cm. During the growth period, you can shape them into tower-shaped asparagus ferns.

　　(3) Natural style: Based on the natural growth of asparagus fern, the basic methods of removing the growth point, shading with objects and utilizing its phototropism are still adopted to make the branches and leaves stretch out, giving people a natural beauty.

　　It should be noted that shaping of asparagus fern must be combined with controlling fertilizer and water. That is, when the room temperature is 15-18℃, water thoroughly once a week to keep the pot soil moist (it is best to be able to press with fingers). No fertilizer or less fertilizer.

　　Key points for caring for asparagus fern　　

　　Asparagus fern shape

　　1. Asparagus fern likes warmth and avoids strong light. In winter, it is necessary to create a growing environment above 15℃, and in summer it should be kept away from direct sunlight.

　　2. Asparagus fern likes moisture and is afraid of soaking its roots. It is not advisable to frequently water asparagus fern, but it is advisable to spray water on the leaves frequently. Generally, in summer, it is appropriate to water the leaves 1 to 2 times a day; in winter, it is sufficient to spray water on the leaves once every 3 to 4 days while keeping the soil moist.

　　3. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer, especially decomposed organic fertilizer. The scientific method of fertilization is to apply thin fertilizer once a week in spring and autumn, and once every 15 to 20 days in winter.

　　4. Place asparagus fern away from marble decorative materials. Asparagus fern has a strong ability to absorb mercury gas, but while absorbing mercury gas, it will also cause serious damage to itself. Therefore, when placing asparagus fern, it should be placed away from marble and other architectural decorative materials that release mercury gas.

　　5. Prune the dense branches in time. If there are too many evil roots, remove them or divide them into different pots. At the same time, pay attention to bundling and trellising to maintain a well-proportioned shape.

　　Maintenance knowledge of potted wintersweet flowers at home

　　Wintersweet, also known as fragrant plum and wax plum, is native to China. It is a unique and precious flower. It has strong adaptability and prefers a humid and sunny environment. It can safely spend the winter as long as the temperature is not lower than minus 15 degrees Celsius. It is drought-resistant and semi-shady, and there is a saying that "wintersweet that cannot be killed by drought" is afraid of wind and water. It has strong branching ability and is resistant to pruning. It likes loose, deep, well-drained neutral or slightly acidic sandy loam. The suitable temperature for growth is 10-15℃. It can withstand low temperatures of -15℃ in winter, but if the temperature drops below -10℃ during the flowering period, the open flowers will be damaged by frost. It has strong branching ability and is resistant to pruning. It is an excellent variety for winter flower arrangement. The flowering period is from December to February, up to dozens of days, and the fruit ripens in June. Wintersweet has a long lifespan and grows slowly, and is a good material for making bonsai. Artificial control of the flowering period,

　　If you want the flowers to bloom on New Year's Day or the Spring Festival, dig up the seedlings and pot them after the leaves fall in late autumn, and store them in a cold room (5℃). Water them appropriately to keep the soil neither dry nor wet. 20 days before the festival, move the seedling pots to a sunny room or greenhouse at 15℃ to 20℃, and water them with thin fertilizer water once a week, and they will bloom in time. If you want the wintersweet to bloom on October 1, dig up the seedlings and pot them in early August, and place them in a cold room at 10℃ to 15℃. About 20 days before the festival, move the seedling pots to a warm (about 25℃) sunny place for cultivation, and they will bloom in time.

　　Division is done after the leaves fall and before the buds sprout. Generally, rooted seedlings are cut from the roots of the mother plant in February or March in spring and planted separately. Apply a thin fertilizer once in autumn, and it will bloom after 2 years of cultivation. In spring, the roots are ringed and layered with soil. It can also be layered from a high altitude during the rainy season (late June to mid-July).

　　Cultivation and management Transplant the plants after the leaves fall in autumn and winter and before the buds sprout in spring. Bare roots are sufficient for planting. Wintersweet should avoid water and humidity. The planting site should be dry, sunny and sheltered. Avoid water and humidity, clay and saline-alkali soil. In winter, the wind will affect flowering, so it should be planted in a sheltered place or with windproof facilities. Wintersweet has two crown shapes, namely the clustered trunk type of seedlings and the single trunk type of grafted seedlings. Prune the crown every autumn and winter, remove the long and weak branches, and ensure that the plants are ventilated and light-permeable. Fertilize once after flowering and turn the soil once in winter.

　　Wintersweet has strong branching ability, is resistant to pruning, can be pruned heavily, and is easy to shape. Its root neck is prone to vigorous sucker branches, some of which can grow beyond the crown of the tree in the same year. Except for the long branches over 1 meter, most of the branches of the same year can form flower buds. Branches below 50 cm have more flowers, especially the short branches of 5 to 15 cm. Generally, after the flowers fade, they should be pruned in time, and dead branches, overcrowded branches, cross branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, etc. should be removed. All upper branches except 2 to 3 pairs of buds at the base of annual branches should be cut to promote germination and branching. After that, after every 2 to 3 pairs of leaves grow on the new branches, they should be topped to promote short and strong flower branches and make the plant shape symmetrical and beautiful. Pruning is mostly carried out from March to June and stopped after July. If pruning is not timely, it is easy to produce many long branches, consume nutrients, and cause poor differentiation of flower buds, affecting flowering.

　　Potted wintersweets have strong growth potential and many branches sprouting from the root zone. After several prunings, potted plants can form strange tree shapes, so most of them are cultivated into stump bonsai. Before potting, you should select a thick main branch in the center, and cut off the other branches from the base, leaving three evenly distributed side branches upward; and top the main branch so that the flower branches grow from these three side branches. In addition to pruning the flower branches in time after the flowers fade every year, you should also thin out the dense side branches and all root suckers at any time, and prune the side branches on the main branches. Each time, the side branches should be gradually shortened from bottom to top so that they complement each other and are staggered. Pile more soil on the old root knots and keep them moist to keep them alive. In the future, repot them every year, remove the soil and expose the roots, gradually forming a vigorous and ancient tree shape, and through artistic processing, it can be molded into various shapes, such as screen fan type, single type, multi-body type, etc., and it can also be cultivated into knotted wintersweets.

　　There are about 10 kinds of diseases, the most common of which are leaf diseases, among which anthracnose and black spot are more common, while branch and root diseases are less common. The leaf spots of wintersweet leaf spot are initially round and brown, and then gradually expand to an irregular shape. The center of the spot becomes light brown or grayish white and dark. In the later stage, small black spots are scattered in the center of the spot. Leaf spot disease is caused by infection of a kind of fungus, shield mold. Prevention and control methods: remove diseased fallen leaves and destroy them in a centralized manner to reduce the source of infection. When the disease is serious, spray 50% carbendazim wettable

　　Phalaenopsis, also known as butterfly orchid, is graceful, gorgeous and beautiful, and blooms for a long time. It is the best among orchids and is known as the queen of orchids. With the improvement of people's living standards, Phalaenopsis has also entered the homes of ordinary people. However, due to the strict cultivation conditions of Phalaenopsis and the difficulty in mastering management measures, the quality of Phalaenopsis products is poor and the market share is low. The basic cultivation techniques of Phalaenopsis are introduced as follows.

　　Phalaenopsis orchids originally grow in the tropics, where the temperature is high all year round, and there is plenty of sunshine and rain. Therefore, they have very high requirements for temperature, humidity and light. A warm and humid environment is a necessary condition for the growth of Phalaenopsis orchids.

　　(1) Temperature. The most suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis to grow in spring is 25℃ (daytime) to 18℃ (nighttime). After vigorous growth in summer, in autumn, it enters a dormant period, and the temperature should be controlled at 21℃ (daytime) to 15℃ (nighttime). Phalaenopsis will go dormant if the temperature is higher than 35℃, and it will burn the plant if the temperature reaches 45℃.

　　(2) Humidity. The optimal humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60% to 80%, and the requirement for seedlings is 90%. If the humidity is too high, the plant is susceptible to disease, and if it is too low, the plant grows slowly.

　　(3) Light. Phalaenopsis orchids grow vigorously in the spring and summer when the sun is abundant. Its native environment is densely shaded by trees, so when cultivated in the north, they should be shielded from light. When cultivated in a greenhouse, internal and external sunshade nets should be added, with a shading rate of 50%.

　　(4) Water and water quality. Phalaenopsis requires a high temperature environment to grow, and watering is best done every 4 to 5 days. In the summer, the leaves should be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day to cool down. In autumn, spraying can be stopped, and watering can be resumed after the soil in the pot is dry. Water quality is crucial to the growth of Phalaenopsis. Generally, the pH is required to be around 6.5.

　　(5) Fertilizer. You can use special fertilizer for orchids produced by regular manufacturers. Among all orchids, Phalaenopsis takes 2 to 4 years from seedling to flowering, and it is a fast-growing type. Therefore, it is necessary to fertilize frequently to ensure its growth. Generally, fertilizer is applied once every 1 to 2 weeks during the growth period, and it is not advisable to fertilize during the dormant period and flowering period.

　　4. Cultivation measures.

　　(1) Potting soil. The best potting soil for Phalaenopsis is a substrate with good drainage and ventilation. Common substrates include water plants (moss), bark, sawdust, coconut shells, etc. At present, orchid growers mostly use water plants because they are soft, fertile, and easy to handle. Soak the water plants for 8 hours before use, and shake them dry when you use them. When you squeeze them by hand, a small amount of water drips but does not form a line.

　　(2) Remove the seedlings from the bottle. The purchased seedlings are acclimatized in the greenhouse for 2 to 4 weeks. After removing the seedlings from the bottle, they are graded according to leaf size and growth status, and planted in different cultivation containers. Labels are inserted to indicate the date of planting and variety name for easy management.

　　(3) Management. Different management measures should be taken at different growth stages. Spring is the flowering period of Phalaenopsis. Whether it is cut flowers or potted plants, the flowering period can last up to 1 month. For management, a layer of shade net should be covered; do not over-water, but keep the leaves moist; only apply liquid orchid fertilizer, and do not fertilize during flowering. Summer is the peak growth period, mainly for the growth of new leaves. For management, double-layer netting should be used for shade; water frequently and spray the leaves 2 to 3 times a day; in addition to liquid fertilizer, oil cake or bone meal mixed fertilizer should be applied every week, and fertilization should be stopped when the weather is hot. Summer is the peak period for diseases and insect pests, so attention should be paid to prevention and control. In autumn, cover a layer of shade net, water a small amount, apply liquid fertilizer several times, and pay attention to killing pests such as snails. In winter, there is no need to shade. Wait until the pot soil is dry before watering, and no fertilization is required.　　

　　Maintenance knowledge of home potted basil herbs

　　Basil is a very precious and rare aromatic plant originally introduced from the United States. Basil is 20-80 cm tall, luxuriant, multi-branched, with white inflorescences. The whole plant exudes a mixed aroma of wine, anise, spice, pepper, mint and slightly sweet, which can be spread dozens of meters by the breeze. If you plant one in a pot at home, the whole room can be bathed in elegant fragrance. Basil is not only a aromatic plant, but also an important seasoning vegetable. It can be used as fresh leaves or dried products. It is reported that many hotels and restaurants in China like to use dried basil as a seasoning for cooking high-end dishes. In addition, basil also has extremely precious medicinal value, which can cure kidney disease, cough and diarrhea; if used with wine, it is also widely used as a seasoning for cooking dishes. It can be mixed with cold dishes, stir-fried, or made into soup. Basil has strong growth potential, and its tender stems and leaves are picked and grown again, which can be used for viewing and eating. Clove basil has a cool and fragrant smell. Fresh leaves and essential oils are mainly used for seasoning and processing baked meat products. Add 2 to 4 pieces of fresh leaves to stir-fried meat at home, and the fragrance will be removed. Basil is very suitable for pairing with tomatoes. Whether it is for cooking, boiling soup or making sauce, the flavor is very unique. It can be used as a seasoning for pizza, pasta sauce, sausage, soup, tomato juice, dressing and salad. Basil can also be mixed with oregano, thyme and sage and added to hot dogs, sausages, sauces or pizza sauces. The taste is very mellow. Many Italian chefs often use basil to replace pizza grass. It is also a common seasoning in Thai cooking. Basil is common in Western recipes and Thai dishes, and it can also be used in three-cup dishes. In addition, basil can also be used as a Chinese medicine to treat injuries and snake and insect bites. The young stems and leaves of basil are fragrant and are used as aromatic vegetables in salads and meat dishes. After harvesting in the flowering season, it is dried and powdered and stored, and can be used as a flavoring at any time. When used as medicine, it can strengthen the stomach, promote digestion, promote diuresis and strengthen the heart, stimulate the uterus, and promote childbirth. In addition, the seeds are called Guangmingzi in traditional Chinese medicine because they can treat ophthalmic pain after taking them. It is also used as a substitute for Lingxiang and Peilan on the market. The essential oil extracted from the leaves is yellow-green and contains methyl black chavicol, linalool, eucalyptol, etc.

　　Cultivation technology of aromatic special dish - basil

　　Basil is very sensitive to cold and grows best in hot and dry environments. Most common species are annual plants with wide adaptability and are not strict about temperature, light, water and soil. They can grow normally in most areas of the north and south. 1. Seeding and seedling raising ① When the temperature is stable above 15℃, it can be sown (usually in early April). When planting in the ground, it can be combined with deep plowing to apply 5 kg of high-quality farmyard manure and 0.1 kg of standard phosphate fertilizer per square meter, and fungicides and insecticides can be applied according to the ground conditions, and then the land is leveled to make high ridges 0.8-1 meters wide. Potted plants can refer to the general requirements of flower cultivation. The loam has a certain fertility and reduces the breeding of pests and diseases. It can be cultivated after the soil is treated. ② Water thoroughly before sowing, and insert the seeds after water seepage (you can use seedling trays, seedbeds, or large-diameter flower pots), with a density of 2 cm x 2 cm, covered with fine sand, and covered with heat-insulating and moisture-retaining plastic film (if the temperature is too high, you can cover it with wet straw), weed in time after germination, and plant when the seedlings are about 15 cm tall. 2. Planting and Management ① Select a 25 cm diameter flower pot and fill it with loose and fertile garden soil mixed with farmyard manure. Plant the seedlings at a depth of 0.5-1 cm slightly upward from the soil mark of the seedling stem, compact the roots, and water once to establish roots. ② Apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer once during the growth period, loosen the soil and weed in time at the beginning of branching, and apply nitrogen fertilizer once every harvest, and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers as appropriate to promote growth and increase yield. 3. Harvesting and Processing The leaves for the fragrance of basil orchid should be harvested before flowering. If sold fresh, they can be tied neatly with fine soft wire in a pile of 50-10 pieces and sold to the market, or other methods can be used for sale. If dried for sale, the fresh pieces can be exposed to the sun, or placed in an oven or drying room at a temperature of about 40°C to preserve color and fragrance. After drying, they can be sealed in exquisite bags and sold. Basil is 60-70 cm tall, a smooth or basically smooth upright annual herb. The whole plant has a strong fragrance, the stem is pure quadrangular, the plant is green, sometimes purple. The leaves are opposite and ovate, 2.5-7.5 cm long, entire or slightly serrated, with long petioles, gray-green below, and dark oil cells. Racemes also grow at intervals on the terminal spike-shaped whorls, 6-8 flowers in whorls, with small white or slightly red flowers. The fruit is a small nut, the seeds are oval, small and black. The seeds swell and become sticky when they encounter water. Basil has no strict selection of soil, and it is best planted in dry, flat and fertile soil in sunny places. In tropical or subtropical areas, land preparation is carried out in February and March, and the ridge width is 60-75 cm. Row sowing is carried out, and soil is covered, with about 20 cm between plants. 3-4 times of inter-row cultivation and weeding are carried out, and several harvests can be carried out until autumn. Apply compost and lime when preparing the land, and apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizers after the first leaf harvesting. When collecting seeds, cut them from the stems when the flower stalks turn yellow, and after they are dried, knock out the seeds.

02. Maintenance knowledge of potted lilies at home　

     Lily Other names: lily, white lily, strong lily, lily, mountain dan, inverted fairy, lily garlic. Flowering period: long flowering period, can bloom in spring, summer and autumn, most in summer. Likes sunshine, likes moisture but also tolerates semi-shady environment. Most of them like cool climate, have strong cold resistance and poor heat resistance. Requires fertile, humus-rich, well-drained slightly acidic soil.

     Potting should be done in September and October. The culture soil should be mixed with leaf mold, sand and garden soil in a ratio of 1:1:1. Apply well-rotted compost and a small amount of bone meal and plant ash as base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot. The planting depth is generally 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.

Potted lilies need to be repotted once a year with new culture soil and basal fertilizer. In addition, the flowerpots should be rotated once a week during the growing season, otherwise the plants will tend to grow too long and affect their appearance.

     Fertilization: Lilies do not require very high fertilizer requirements. Usually, fertilizer can be applied at the beginning of growth and early flowering in spring. Some foreign growers believe that lilies have the greatest demand for nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. They should be applied once every 10-15 days during the growth period, while phosphorus fertilizers should be limited, because too much phosphorus fertilizer will cause the leaves to wither and turn yellow. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be applied 1-2 times during the flowering period. In order to make the bulbs full, the remaining flowers should be cut off in time after flowering to reduce nutrient consumption.

     Watering: Just keep the soil moist, but water frequently during the growing season and in dry weather, and sprinkle water around the pot to increase the air humidity. The soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulb will rot easily.

     Pest and disease control: (1) Lily mosaic: Also known as lily latent mosaic, when the disease breaks out, leaves will have unevenly dark chlorotic or dead spots, the affected plants will be short, the leaf margins will curl, and the leaf shape will become smaller; sometimes spindle-shaped light brown spots will appear on the petals, the flowers will be deformed, and it will be difficult to bloom. Control methods: ① Select virus-free bulbs for seed; ② Strengthen the control of aphids and leafhoppers; ③ Remove and destroy diseased plants in time when they are found.

(2) Spot disease: When it first occurs, small faded spots appear on the leaves, which expand to brown spots with dark brown edges. Later, many small black spots will appear in the center of the lesions. In severe cases, the entire leaf will turn black and die. Prevention and control methods: Remove the diseased leaves and spray once with 65% mancozeb wettable powder 500 times diluted to prevent the spread.

1. Breeding Methods

    1. Scale propagation: Cut the scales from the base with a sharp knife, or peel them off by hand, select the fat ones and soak them in a 1:500 benomyl or captan aqueous solution for 30 minutes to kill the pathogens, dry them in the shade and directly insert them into the seedbed. 15-20 days after insertion, a small bulb will appear at the incision at the lower end of the scale, roots will grow below it, and leaves will begin to grow. Generally, 1 scale can grow 1-2 small bulbs, and it takes 2-3 years to cultivate into bulbs. The use of "aeroponics" can greatly shorten the time to grow bulbs. The method is to place the scales in a greenhouse at 20-25℃, with a relative humidity of 80%-90%, and provide appropriate light. After 10 days, callus tissue will be produced and differentiated into a small bulb body, roots will grow after 15 days, stems and leaves will grow after 30 days, and small bulbs with a diameter of 1 cm can be obtained after 50-80 days.

    2. Bulb propagation: For varieties that can produce secondary bulblets, i.e. "baby bulbs", when digging up large bulbs, the small bulbs in the soil can be collected for sowing. After one year of cultivation, they can reach the bulb standard.

    3. Propagation of young bulbs When harvesting lilies grown in Lanzhou, Pinglu and Yixing, bulbs with well-developed root systems, good bracts, and generally 3-5 young bulbs of uniform size and clear appearance are selected for seeding. Separate the young bulbs before planting so that each bulb has a stem base. Plant in September-November with a row spacing of 25-28cm and a plant spacing of 17-20cm. Plant in trenches with the bottom of the young bulb facing downwards and cover with 7cm of soil. Seedlings will emerge in the spring of the following year. Finished lilies can be harvested in Yixing in autumn, while finished lilies can be harvested in Lanzhou and Pinglu after 2-3 years.

    4. Propagation of bulbils For varieties that can produce bulbils, when the bulbils mature in June, they are harvested and stored in sand, and sown in the seedbed in August-September. Use row sowing, with a row spacing of 15-20cm, a plant spacing of 3-7cm, a planting depth of 3-5cm, and a sand cover of about 0.3cm thick, followed by a layer of grass. In the autumn of the following year, they will grow into one-year-old bulbs, and can be used as seed bulbs after growing for 2-3 years.

    5. Stem and leaf cuttings: Insert the stem nodes into water, or insert the leaves, especially the upper leaves, into wet perlite powder. Soon, small bulbs will grow from the cut at the base.

    The number of leaves is the standard for timely top removal. It is most suitable to top the plant when it has grown more than 60 leaves and the daily average temperature does not exceed 23°C. Experiments have shown that top removal increases yield compared to no top removal, and timely top removal increases yield compared to late top removal. The more leaves retained by timely top removal, the greater the yield increase. 　

     Strawberry is a perennial berry with high economic value. Every 100 grams of pulp contains 6-11 grams of sugar, 0.4-0.6 grams of protein, about 1.4 grams of crude fiber, and also contains a variety of vitamins and various nutrients necessary for the human body. The fruit is bright red, with delicate flesh, rich juice, sweet and sour taste, and rich fruit flavor.

Seedling cultivation

    Mother plant breeding: Choose a strong mother plant that has produced many fruits and high yields in the first year and is free of pests and diseases. Apply sufficient basal fertilizer before planting and avoid continuous cropping. Do a good job of picking inflorescences, vines, old leaves, and weeding on a daily basis. During the period of runners, use dilute human feces or 0.3% compound fertilizer for irrigation, and stop using it at the end of July. Use clean ditch irrigation, micro-sprinkler irrigation or drip irrigation.

     Transplanting of seedlings is done in late June to early July, that is, on cloudy days before the end of the plum rain season and the beginning of the dog days. Select seedlings with 2-3 unfolded leaves and strong roots, and lift them up with soil, and water them with thin human feces and urine while lifting and planting. After planting, build a shed and cover it with a shade net to provide shade, cover it during the day and uncover it at night to promote survival. Water it 1-2 times a day within 3-5 days after planting to keep the soil moist. After survival, remove the shade, combine watering 2-3 times, and use thin nitrogen fertilizer to promote rapid growth of roots and leaves of the seedlings. When the transplanted seedlings grow 2-3 new leaves, remove the old leaves in time. After mid-August, control the amount of leaves to maintain 4-5 leaves, and control the application of nitrogen fertilizer and watering, keep the soil moderately dry, and promote the differentiation of strawberry flower buds. Standards for strong seedlings: short petioles with 5-6 expanded leaves, large leaves with thick mesophyll, rhizomes 1-1.3cm thick, well-developed root system with many white roots, and seedling weight 25-30g.

Colonization

  Select disease-free plants with green leaves, strong stems, 4-5 leaves, and complete root systems. It is better to plant shallowly without exposing the roots. After planting, water the plants enough to establish roots. About 10 days after planting, when the strawberry seedlings grow new leaves, apply a thin layer of human and animal manure water. The first topdressing should be about 20 days after planting, and the second topdressing should be 1 month after planting, before covering the ground film. Foliar topdressing can be sprayed with one of the foliar fertilizers such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, foliar treasure, Aiduoshou, Luwang, and auxin when buds appear and flowers begin to bloom. After that, choose another type of foliar fertilizer to spray every 7-10 days to promote the growth and development of plants and fruits.

Covering the ground

    25-30 days after planting, cover the ground with black mulch that is basically the same width as the bed surface. Then tear open the mulch at the location where the plants are, lead the plants out of the mulch, and press down both sides with soil.

      Water management: Strawberries like fertilizer and water, but are afraid of waterlogging. From flowering to fruiting, they must have enough water to ensure the growth and development of their fruits. For the garden covered with mulch, the method of flooding is used to irrigate the ground with water at a depth of 10-15 cm from the roots of the plants. The water is kept for 10-12 hours, and then the remaining water is drained. Irrigate every few days to keep the soil moist.

Plant care

    The inflorescences that emerge first in strawberries are sturdy and produce large fruits, while the high-level inflorescences that emerge later are slender and produce small fruits. The high-level inflorescences and incompletely developed ineffective flowers should be removed in time. Generally, the first 1-2 buds grown by the plant are retained, and the rest should be removed in time. The creeping seedlings of the plant are constantly emerging, so they should be removed in time, and the old leaves, diseased leaves, and over-dense leaves at the bottom of the plant should be removed and destroyed. Spraying gibberellin: varies according to different varieties. 5ml per plant, spray the second time after one week. 2% potassium nitrate 3000 times or 2% cytokinin and broad-spectrum yield-increasing bacteria can be sprayed during the seedling stage, flowering stage, and young fruit expansion stage to promote the growth and development of strawberries. 

    Plant shape adjustment during production period: Each strawberry plant should have 8-10 leaves, and old and damaged leaves, diseased leaves and emerging runners should be removed in time to ensure that nutrients are concentrated on the fruit. Strawberry flowers and fruits should be properly thinned out, leaving 15-25 fruits per plant, and removing fruits with short stalks, small flowers, and small or deformed fruits. 

    Temperature and humidity management: To promote the growth and development of strawberries and increase their coloring and yield, constant temperature in the greenhouse is crucial. The daytime temperature should be controlled at 25-27°C from the fruit expansion period to the harvest period, and the night temperature should be kept at 7°C, with the lowest temperature not lower than 5°C. Humidity has a great impact on the flowering and pollination of strawberries. High humidity will reduce the anther opening rate and germination rate of strawberries. After flowering, the relative humidity in the greenhouse should be maintained at 50-60%. Even in the cold winter, the film should be removed for ventilation during the high temperature at noon to reduce the humidity in the greenhouse.

　   Pest and disease control During the middle and late stages of strawberry growth (February-April), there are many rainy and foggy days, and the air temperature is high, which is prone to various diseases and pests. Common diseases include gray mold, powdery mildew, leaf spot, etc. In the early stage of initial flowering, 0.3 kg of 45% ultrafine sulfur colloid suspension plus 150 g of 50% triadimefon can be sprayed with 50 kg of water per 667 square meters to prevent diseases and kill insects.

Harvest

    It usually takes about 30 days for strawberries to mature from flowering to fruiting, but it may take longer or shorter due to different varieties and different climatic conditions. When the fruit turns red and the coloring is more than 80%, it is mature and should be harvested in time.

     Also known as nine flowers and yellow flowers. It belongs to the Asteraceae family and is a perennial herbaceous flower. The stem is upright, branched, and slightly woody at the base. The leaves are alternate and vary in shape, from ovate to broadly lanceolate, with notches and serrations on the edges. Chrysanthemums are divided into summer chrysanthemums, autumn chrysanthemums, and winter chrysanthemums due to different flowering periods. There are many varieties,

     Chrysanthemum is very adaptable, likes coolness, and is relatively cold-resistant. The optimum temperature for growth is 18-21℃, with a maximum of 32℃ and a minimum of 10℃. The underground rhizome is generally resistant to low temperatures of -10℃. The lowest night temperature during the flowering period is 17℃, and it can drop to 15-13℃ during the flowering period (mid and late). It likes plenty of sunlight, but is also slightly shade-tolerant. It is most afraid of waterlogging. It likes high and dry terrain, deep soil, rich in humus, light and fertile sandy loam with good drainage. It can grow in slightly acidic to neutral soil, and the best pH is 6.2-6.7. Avoid continuous cropping. 　　

     Autumn chrysanthemum is a plant with long nights and short days. It grows its stems and leaves under long daylight of 14.5 hours a day. Darkness of more than 12 hours a day and a night temperature of 10℃ are suitable for the development of flower buds. However, different varieties have different responses to sunlight.　　
  It is mainly propagated by cuttings, which are divided into bud cuttings, branch cuttings, and leaf bud cuttings. 　
　
    Bud cuttings: Cut the buds on the outside of the planting socks for cuttings in autumn and winter. The standard for selecting buds is that they are far away from the plant and have plump buds. After the buds are selected, peel off the lower leaves and insert them into the coarse sand in the flower pot or cutting bed, maintain a room temperature of 7-8℃, and plant them outdoors after the spring warms up. 　　

    Softwood cutting: This method is the most widely used. Cuttings are usually made in April and May. Cut 8-10 cm of softwood as cuttings and manage them well after cutting. At a temperature of 18-21℃, most varieties will take root in about 3 weeks and can be transplanted to pots in about 4 weeks.

    Division: Generally around the Qingming Festival, the plants are dug out, separated with the roots according to their natural shape, and planted in separate pots.

1. Cultivation and management of potted chrysanthemums 　
　　
    : Cultivation method after cutting: This method is the most commonly used.

    (1) The watering method is very important for chrysanthemum cultivation. Water at noon when it is cold, and in the morning and evening in summer. Water twice a day when it is hot and dry. Generally, do not apply too much water. In addition to basal fertilizer, apply light fertilizer water once every 10 days when the chrysanthemum seedlings are growing normally. After the beginning of autumn, the plants grow vigorously, and the number of fertilizations can be increased, and the fertilizer concentration can also be increased. When the flower buds are formed, phosphorus fertilizers should be applied. Fertilization should be carried out in the evening, and water should be poured again early the next morning to ensure normal breathing of the roots. Do not contaminate the leaves when fertilizing.

   (2) Pinching, bud removal, and support: Pinching can control the height of the plant and the number of flowers. Generally, there are single branches, double branches, and multiple branches. Pinching starts when the seedling is about 15 cm tall or when the scion has 3 to 4 leaves. It can be done 2 to 3 times. If the growth is rapid, the number of times should be more, otherwise the number of times should be reduced. The last time is usually around the beginning of autumn. Chrysanthemums have many buds, but only one bud is left on the top of each branch. To be on the safe side, the buds can be removed in three times, leaving 3 buds for the first time, 2 for the second time, and 1 for the third time. Generally, only 3 to 5 strong branches are left in each pot. Potted chrysanthemums have large flowers and fragile branches, so they should be fixed with support pillars during the last pinching.

   (3) Growth hormone treatment: Potted chrysanthemums have a long growth period. If they are not managed properly, they will grow too tall, with thin stems and severe foot loss, which will affect their ornamental value. Spraying PP333 has a significant effect on dwarfing chrysanthemums, but the sensitivity of different varieties to PP333 varies greatly. Before use, experiments are required to obtain the optimal concentration.                                 

   (4) Disease and pest control: Common diseases include brown spot, black spot, powdery mildew and root rot, all of which are fungal diseases caused by excessive soil moisture and poor drainage, ventilation and light transmission. Prevention is mainly achieved by improving the ecological environment. Potting soil should be disinfected with 1:80 formalin solution, and sprayed with 80% wettable mancozeb solution or 50% wettable thiophanate solution during the growing season. The main insect pests include aphids, red spiders, loopers, chrysanthemum beetles, grubs, leafminer larvae, grasshoppers and snails, which can be controlled by strengthening cultivation management, manual killing and spraying.

   (5) Management after flowering: After flowering, the above-ground branches and leaves wither, but new buds appear at the rhizomes. Protect the plant from cold in winter, apply a little fertilizer before winter, and water the soil when it is dry.

     Soil: Gardenia is an acidic soil plant, so the slightly acidic soil environment is the key to determine the growth of gardenia. The culture soil should be a mixture of 70% slightly acidic sandy loam and 30% leaf humus. It likes moisture and is afraid of dryness, and the humidity can be 40-70%. It likes fertilizer, and can often apply water containing ferrous sulfate, alum fertilizer or corrosive fertilizer. It is resistant to high temperatures and can grow even at 40℃. It is resistant to severe cold and will not freeze to death even at around 10℃. It has strong resistance to sulfur dioxide. It is easy to germinate and can tolerate pruning.

    Temperature: The best growth temperature is 16℃-18℃. Too low temperature and direct sunlight are extremely detrimental to its growth, so it is advisable to place it in a well-ventilated, humid and light-permeable sparse forest or shade shed for maintenance in summer. In winter, place it in a sunny environment with a temperature not lower than 0℃ to let it dormant. Too high temperature will affect its flowering next year.

    Water: It likes moist air, so watering should be increased appropriately during the growing period. Usually, watering can be started when the soil in the pot turns white, and water thoroughly at one time. In the hot summer, spray the leaves 2-3 times a day to increase the air humidity and help the plant cool down. However, after the flowers bud, watering should not be too much to avoid causing the buds to fall off. In winter, it is better to water the plant on the dry side to prevent excessive water from rotting the roots.

    Fertilizer: For fertilizer-loving plants, in order to meet their fertilizer needs during the growth period and maintain a slightly acidic environment in the soil, ferrous sulfate can be mixed into the fertilizer solution for fermentation in advance. After entering the peak growth season in April, topdressing can be done once every half a month (it is best to add more water when fertilizing to prevent burning of the flowers). This can not only meet the fertilizer needs of gardenias, but also maintain a relatively balanced slightly acidic environment in the soil environment to prevent the occurrence of chlorosis, and at the same time avoid the damage to gardenias caused by sudden supplementation of ferrous sulfate and local over-acidity.

    Cuttings are commonly used for propagation. Gardenia is a flowering plant that does not bear fruit. It has no seeds and can only be cultivated by cuttings. The first half of the year is in April, and the second half is in August-September. These two periods are the best seasons for cuttings of gardenias, and also the best time for gardenias to reproduce. Cut 15 cm long young branches in the rainy season and insert them into the seedbed. They will take root in 10-12 days. For layering, select 2-year-old branches in April, 20-25 cm long, bury them in the soil, keep them moist, and they will take root in about 30 days. Separate from the mother plant in summer and transplant the following spring. Avoid fertilization before and after cuttings, especially human, livestock, poultry, natural fertilizers, urea, chemical fertilizers, etc.

　　Chlorosis caused by iron deficiency: This chlorosis appears on new leaves. At first, the leaves are light yellow or white, and the veins are still green. In severe cases, the veins also turn yellow or white, and the leaves eventually dry up and die. In this case, spray 0.2%-0.5% ferrous sulfate aqueous solution for prevention and control.

　　Yellowing caused by magnesium deficiency: This yellowing starts from old leaves and gradually spreads to new leaves. The veins of the leaves are still green. In severe cases, the leaves fall off and die. In this case, spray 0.7%-0.8% boron magnesium fertilizer to prevent and control it. Excessive watering, freezing, etc. can also cause yellowing of leaves, so special attention should be paid during maintenance.

   The potting soil should be prepared with 40% garden soil, 15% coarse sand, 30% manure soil, and 15% leaf humus. Pay attention to watering during the seedling stage of gardenia, keep the potting soil moist, and apply decomposed thin fertilizer frequently. It is better to use rainwater or fermented rice water for watering. During the growth period, if you water once every 10 to 15 days with 0.2% ferrous sulfate water or alum fertilizer water (the two can be used alternately), it can prevent the soil from turning alkaline, and at the same time, it can supplement the soil with iron elements to prevent the leaves of gardenia from turning yellow. In summer, spray water on the leaves of gardenia every morning and evening to increase the air humidity and promote the gloss of the leaves. After flowering in August, only water with clean water and control the amount of watering. Move it indoors before the Cold Dew in October and place it in a sunny place. Strictly control watering in winter, but you can often spray the leaves with clean water. From May to July every year, when the vigorous growth period of gardenia is about to end, the plant should be pruned and the top removed to promote branching, so that the plant will have a beautiful shape and more flowers in the future.

   Gardenia is prone to scale insect damage and sooty mold in winter when indoor ventilation is poor and temperature and humidity are too high. Scale insects can be scraped off with bamboo sticks or sprayed with No. 20 petroleum emulsion and 200 times water. Sooty mold can be scrubbed with clean water or sprayed with 1000 times dilution of carbendazim.

      The rubber tree (Ficous elastica) is also known as the Indian banyan tree and the Indian rubber tree. It belongs to the Moraceae family and the genus Ficus. The leaves of the rubber tree are large and shiny, and they are evergreen all year round. They are common foliage plants and are suitable for potted plants. They can be cultivated in the open field as landscape trees and street trees in southern China. The whole plant is smooth and has latex. The rubber tree is native to India and Malaysia, and is now cultivated in many places. It likes a warm, humid, sunny environment, and can tolerate shade slightly, but is not cold-resistant. It requires fertile and loose soil and grows well in neutral or slightly acidic soil. It likes warm and humid weather. It requires fertile soil. It likes light and can tolerate shade, but is not cold-resistant. It is easily damaged by frost when the temperature is below 5C to 8C in winter. The suitable temperature is 20C to 25C.

     Reproduction method

    Both pole cutting and layering are acceptable. There is no limit to the season for cuttings, as long as the temperature is above 15°C, and it is most suitable from May to September. For cuttings in spring and summer, choose two-year-old strong branches as cuttings, and for autumn cuttings, use strong branches of the current year as cuttings. When inserting, wait until the gelatin at the cut is condensed, or use charcoal powder and rice husk ash to absorb it before inserting it into the substrate. Multi-bud cuttings are inserted into 1/3 to 1/2 of the substrate. Single-bud cuttings are inserted into the substrate completely, with the top of the stem slightly exposed. Summer cuttings can be carried out using the full-light spray seedling method, which generally takes root in 30 days and can be transplanted after 50 days. Layering can be selected in summer. Thick branches that grow well and grow every other year are ringed 0.5 cm to 1 cm, and then paste mud is applied to the ringing area with a thickness of about 2 cm. Wrap it with plastic film on the outside to maintain humidity. After rooting, cut it and plant it in the soil to form an independent seedling.

    Cuttings are taken in late spring and early summer, and can be combined with pruning. Cuttings are mostly selected from the middle branches of one-year-old semi-lignified branches. After the cuttings are cut, in order to prevent excessive emulsion from the cut, which affects survival, the wound should be sealed with glue or wood ash in time. The length of the cuttings is based on retaining 3 buds. Cut off the lower leaf, close the upper two leaves, and tie them with a thin plastic rope to reduce leaf evaporation. Then cut the cuttings on the cutting bed with plain sand or frog stone as the substrate. After cutting, keep the cutting bed with high humidity, but do not accumulate water. The suitable temperature is 18-25℃. Sprinkle water on the ground frequently to increase the air humidity, and do a good job of shading and ventilation. It will take root in about 2-3 weeks. After potting, put it in a slightly shaded place, and gradually increase the light after the new buds sprout. 

     Cultivation techniques

    Rubber trees are mostly potted in greenhouses. Potted seedlings should be placed in semi-shaded areas. Seedlings need to be repotted every spring, and adult plants can be repotted every 2 to 3 years. Apply decomposed cake fertilizer every 2 weeks during the growing season. In midsummer, watering is required every day and spraying is required several times. Watering should be reduced in autumn and winter. Move into a greenhouse or indoors in late autumn to prevent frost damage. 

     When potting, it is advisable to use leaf mold, grass ash soil, about 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer to make the culture soil. Keep the soil moist at ordinary times, and apply thin liquid fertilizer every 15-20 days. In the hot summer season, rubber trees grow faster, and they should be fertilized and watered a lot, but water should be avoided in the pot. After entering autumn, gradually reduce fertilization and watering to promote plant growth and fullness, which is conducive to wintering. Because rubber trees like sunlight, they should be placed outdoors in sunny places for maintenance from spring to autumn; if they are placed in the shade for a long time, it is easy to cause the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. After the potted rubber trees are seedlings, it is generally advisable to repot and change the soil once every spring before the new buds grow. When repotting, appropriately cut off the curled roots, add new culture soil and base fertilizer. For plants that have grown too large, you can also change to a larger flower pot in September. In order to make the potted rubber trees full, pinch the tops when the seedlings grow to 60-80 cm in height to promote the germination of side buds. After the side branches grow out, select 3-5 of them and shorten them once a year thereafter. In three years, you can get a round and plump tree that is 1.5-2 meters tall.

　　Rubber trees are not cold-resistant, so they need to be moved indoors to a sunny place for maintenance in winter. Keep the room temperature above 10℃ and the minimum temperature not below 5℃. If the temperature is too low and the soil is damp, the leaves will turn black and fall off, the roots will rot, and even the whole plant will die. Move it to the courtyard or balcony for maintenance from the end of April to the beginning of May next year. 　

    Cultivation soil refers to soil that is specially prepared artificially to meet the needs of the growth and development of flowers, especially potted flowers, according to the different requirements of various varieties for soil. It contains rich nutrients, has good drainage and permeability (breathable) properties, can retain moisture and fertilizer, does not crack when dry, does not stick when wet, and does not form a crust after watering.
 
    1. Therefore, it is necessary to artificially prepare mixed soil. This soil is called cultivation soil. There are many kinds of flowers with different living habits. Cultivation soil should be prepared according to the habits of flowers and the properties of materials.

    The raw materials for processing culture soil are as follows:

    1. Garden soil: Garden soil or fertile farmland soil has a good aggregate structure and high fertility. The pH value in the north is 7.0~7.5, and the pH value in the south is 5.5~6.5. Garden soil is generally the surface sandy loam of vegetable gardens, orchards, bamboo gardens, etc. The soil is relatively fertile and is neutral, acidic or alkaline. Garden soil is easy to harden after drying and has poor water permeability. It is generally not used alone.

    2. River sand: Generally does not contain nutrients, mainly plays a role in ventilation and drainage, pH value is about 6.5~7.0. River sand does not contain organic matter, is clean, and has a neutral pH value. It is suitable for cutting seedlings, sowing seedlings, and direct cultivation of cacti and succulent plants. Generally, heavy clay soil can be mixed with river sand to improve the soil structure.

    3. Leaf humus: Made from the pile of fallen leaves in autumn, it is loose, porous, rich in humus, and suitable for planting various acid-loving flowers. The pH value is 5.5~6.0. Leaf humus is generally made from the decay of tree leaves and vegetable leaves. It contains a large amount of organic matter, is loose and fertile, and has good air permeability and drainage. It is weakly acidic and can be used alone to cultivate Clivia, orchids, and cyclamen. Generally, leaf humus is used in combination with garden soil and mountain mud. Generally, the fallen leaves of broad-leaved trees (preferably fallen leaves of poplar, willow, elm, and locust trees that are easy to rot) are collected in autumn and winter, mixed with garden soil and piled for 1 to 2 years, and the fallen leaves can be sieved and used after they are fully decayed.

    4. River mud and pond mud: The river and pond sediments are rotten, rich in organic matter, and have comprehensive nutrients and are acidic. The disadvantage is that it contains toxic substances. After being dug out, it must be dried to decompose the toxic substances before use. Generally, the silt in ponds or lakes is scooped out in autumn and winter, dried and crushed, and then mixed with coarse sand, husk ash or other light and loose soil.

    5. Pine Needle Soil: It is formed by long-term accumulation and decomposition of fallen leaves of pine and cypress plants. The pH value is 3.5~4.0, and the humus content is high. The humus formed by the fallen leaves of pine trees in mountain forests after years of decomposition is pine needle soil. Pine needle soil is gray-brown, relatively fertile, with good air permeability and drainage, and has a strong acid reaction. It is suitable for flowers that like strong acidity, such as azalea, gardenia, and camellia.

    6. Vermiculite: It is a mica-like magnesium silicate that expands at a high temperature of 1000°C. It has the advantages of being light, loose, and able to absorb a large amount of water and fertilizer.

    7. Peat: It is the plant residues that grew in the low-lying areas in ancient times. It forms a soft accumulation under the condition of flooding and less air. The poorly decomposed peat is mostly brown or light brown, while the well-decomposed peat is black or dark brown. It is easy to crush after air drying. The peat has a soft texture and good water permeability, air permeability and water retention. It contains humic acid, which is very beneficial to promote the rooting of cuttings. The pH value is 4.5~6.5, and it is one of the important raw materials for preparing culture soil.

    Peat soil: Peat soil is also called peat soil. It is made of aquatic plants such as reeds, which are carbonized by peat moss. In the north, brown peat is often used to prepare nutrient soil. Peat soil is soft and loose, has good drainage and air permeability, and is weakly acidic, making it a good cutting medium. Peat soil is more suitable for growing acid-loving flowers such as orchids, camellias, osmanthus, and white orchids that are native to the south.

    Turf soil: In natural pastures or grasslands, dig out the top 10cm of turf, pile it up layer by layer, let it mature for a year or more, and sieve it to remove stones and grass roots. Turf soil has sufficient nutrients and is weakly acidic, so it can be used to grow plants, roses, dianthus, dahlias, etc.

    Rice husk ash is the ash formed after burning rice husks. It has a neutral or weakly acidic reaction and contains high potassium nutrients. Mixing it into the soil can make the soil loose and breathable.

  Bone meal: Made from ground and fermented animal bones, it contains a large amount of phosphorus. The amount added should not exceed 1%.

  Sawdust: After fermentation, sawdust can be mixed into the culture soil to change the looseness and water absorption of the soil.

    Sawdust is light and loose, with large porosity, and is a good material for improving clay soil. Before use, put some cake fertilizer or chicken and duck manure into the sawdust, add water to the tank for fermentation, and then dig it out and air it until it is half dry. Then add 1/3 of sawdust to the soil and mix it evenly, which can increase the permeability of the soil. After 1-2 months, the sawdust will be decomposed into humus by aerobic bacteria in the soil, which can also improve the fertility of the soil. At the same time, sawdust can neutralize the pH of the soil to varying degrees, which is conducive to the growth of flowers and trees.

    Sawdust has all the conditions required for potted flower soil and can be used alone; however, it cannot fix plants when used alone, so it is often mixed with other materials to increase drainage and ventilation performance. Sawdust is neutral and can be used to plant Clivia, Cycas, Peony, Chinese Rose, etc.; pine and fir wood sawdust is acidic and can be used to plant white orchid, Michelia, Milan, Gardenia, Azalea, Jasmine, Orchid, etc.

    Coal ash (i.e. furnace ash slag) is a good fertilizer and has many benefits:

　　1. It can increase ground temperature. According to measurements, applying coal ash within a 5-10 cm soil layer can increase ground temperature by 0.7-2.4°C.

　　2. Reduce soil bulk density. Applying coal ash as fertilizer can make the soil loose and not compacted, increase soil pores, reduce soil bulk density, and play a role in absorbing water to prevent waterlogging, loosening and improving the soil.

　　3. Improve water and fertilizer retention capabilities. According to measurements, applying 750 kg of coal ash per mu can increase the moisture content by 2% compared to not applying it, and can also improve the soil.

　　4. Can be used as compost material. Coal ash has certain adsorption capacity and can be used to make compost together with other organic matter or to make high-temperature compost together with straw.

　　5. Direct use as fertilizer Coal ash contains phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, boron, calcium, silicon and other elements, so it can be used as a fertilizer source for soils lacking these elements and acidic soils. Applying coal ash in combination with other fertilizers in the soil can make the stems of crops hard and resistant to lodging. Coal ash has a certain effect on increasing the yield of crops, generally increasing the yield of wheat, rice and oil crops by about 10%, and the yield increase of leguminous crops is even greater.　

2. Preparation ratio

   General grass flowers: 30% leaf humus, 50% garden soil, 20% river sand.
   Woody flowers: 40% leaf humus, 50% garden soil, 10% river sand.
   For sowing: 50% leaf humus, 30% garden soil, 20% river sand.
   Greenhouse flowers: 40% leaf humus, 40% garden soil, 20% river sand.

    For the seedlings that have survived from the stem cuttings (those that were originally planted in the sand), place them in a pot with 2 parts of soil, 1 part of yellow sand, and 1 part of loam and 1 part of leaf rot (peat can be used for acid-loving plants)

    The soil for transplanting seedlings and potting seedlings is 1 part yellow sand, 1 part loam, and 1 part humus soil.

    For general potted flowers (geraniums, begonias, chrysanthemums, and palm plants), use 1 part yellow sand, 2 parts loam, 1 part humus, and half a part dry decomposed cow manure. For every 4 liters of the above mixture, add one full five-inch basin of bone meal.

    Generally, potted flowers that require more humus (such as begonias, most ferns, and primroses) use 2 parts of yellow sand, 2 parts of loam, 2 parts of humus, and half a part of dry and decomposed cow manure plus bone meal, the same as the third category.

    Generally, when potting woody plants (such as azaleas, daphne, etc.), use 2 parts of yellow sand, 2 parts of loam, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of humus and half a part of dry and decomposed cow manure.

　  Generally, the soil for cacti and succulents is 2 parts yellow sand, 2 parts loam, 1 part finely crushed potting soil, and half a part humus. For every 4 liters of the above mixture, add one full five-inch pot of bone meal and one full five-inch pot of ground limestone.

    The general growing soil for flowers can be prepared by mixing leaf mold (or peat soil), garden soil, and river sand in a ratio of 4:3:2.5, with a small amount of bone meal or a small amount of decomposed cake fertilizer.

    Suitable for growing general flowers and trees, it is prepared with peat soil, garden soil, river sand and cake fertilizer residue in a ratio of 3:1.5:2:0.5.

      Cultivation soil for acid-loving and shade-tolerant flowers. Use 4 parts of leaf humus and peat soil, 1 part of sawdust, and 1 part of vermiculite or decomposed manure soil to mix and prepare.
      Suitable for the cultivation soil of Bromeliaceae, succulent flowers, Asclepiadaceae, and Acanthaceae flowers. Use 4 parts of peat soil (or leaf humus), 2 parts of garden soil and vermiculite, and 1 part of river sand to mix and prepare.
      Suitable for the cultivation soil of Araceae, Marantaceae, Gesneriaceae, Ferns and Piperaceae flowers. 5 parts of peat soil (or leaf humus), 2 parts of garden soil and vermiculite, and 1 part of river sand can be mixed.
      Suitable for the cultivation soil of epiphytic cactus flowers (mainly including Epiphyllum, Euphorbia, etc.). Use 3 parts of leaf humus, garden soil, and coarse sand, 1 part of bone meal and plant ash to mix and prepare.
      Suitable for the cultivation soil of terrestrial cactus flowers (mainly including cactus, cactus, mountain shadow boxing, etc.). You can mix 2 parts of leaf humus, 3 parts of garden soil, 4 parts of coarse sand, and 1 part of fine tile scraps (or limestone gravel, old gray wall skin, shell powder). Cultivation
      soil for shade-loving plants (mainly including kidney fern, evergreen, lucky grass, monstera, hanging bamboo plum, etc.). You can mix 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of river sand, and 1 part of sawdust or peat soil. Cultivation soil
      for flowers with developed root systems and vigorous growth (mainly including bellflower, chrysanthemum, tiger tail orchid, etc.). You can mix 4 parts of garden soil, 2 parts of leaf humus, rice husk ash and coarse sand.
      Cultivation soil for sowing. You can mix 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of rice husk ash and sand. The substrate for cuttings can be mixed with half garden soil and half rice husk ash.
      For fruit-viewing and flower-viewing plants, especially large flowers, in addition to the above materials, a small amount of bone meal or superphosphate should be added to the soil.

    The culture soil for asparagus fern and spider plant requires good drainage and air permeability, and is preferably prepared with 60% garden soil or pond mud, 10% sand, and 30% rice bran ash;

    For the cultivation soil of flowers and trees such as plum blossoms, crabapples, and pomegranates, use 35% humus soil, 35% pond mud, 15% sand, 15% chaff ash, and add a small amount of bone meal;

    The culture soil for camellia, Michelia, azalea, etc. can be made of humus soil or mountain mud, charred mud ash, and sand. The humus soil is 40%, mountain mud is 30%, charred mud 10%, and sand is 20%, and a small amount of bone meal can be added.    

    For the cultivation soil of chrysanthemum, dahlia and other common greenhouse flowers, mix 30% humus soil, 40% pond mud and 30% garden soil, then add 30% rice bran ash to 70% of the above mixture, add a small amount of bone meal, lime, etc. to make the soil acidity and alkalinity moderate;

    The culture soil used for cypress and nandina domestica is made of 45% mountain mud, 35% humus and burnt marl, and 20% sand;

    The growing soil for indoor foliage plants can be prepared with 2 parts peat, 1 part vermiculite, and 1 part perlite, or with 1 part peat, 1 part perlite, and 1 part bark.

    Sawdust is neutral and can be used to grow Clivia, Cycas, Peony, Rose, etc.

    The sawdust of loose soil fir is acidic and can be used to plant white orchid, sneer, Milan, gardenia, azalea, jasmine, orchid, etc.

    The culture soil mentioned above should be disinfected before use.　

3. Make compost soil

    Compost soil is also a common culture soil for potted flowers. It is made of dead branches, fallen leaves, grass, fruit peels, feces, hair bones, internal organs, etc., with old soil from potting, furnace ash, and garden soil, which are layered and piled up, and then human and animal feces are poured on top, and finally garden soil is covered around and on top. After being stored for more than half a year, it is allowed to ferment and rot, and then the fine soil that is mixed and crushed and sieved is separated to form compost soil. The remaining residue is piled up and stored again to make compost soil for next use.

    When making compost, care should be taken not to make the soil too wet, so that aerobic bacteria have enough air to decompose organic matter and generate nitrogen and sulfide. If it is too wet, anaerobic bacteria will decompose organic matter into ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, which will be lost in the air, reducing the fertilizer effect.

    The compost soil and sandy soil are mixed in half to plant flowers. It is fertile and good for drainage, and the effect is very good. If compost soil and peat soil are mixed to plant orchids, camellias, azaleas, Clivia, Milan and other precious flowers and trees, the effect is also good. 4. Adjust the pH value The pH value of the soil for planting flowers has a great influence on the growth of flowers. Improper pH value will seriously hinder the growth and development of flowers, affect the absorption of nutrients, and cause some diseases.

    Most flowers grow well in neutral to slightly acidic soil (PH5-7). Above or below this limit, some nutrients are in an inabsorbable state, which leads to nutritional deficiencies in some flowers. In particular, flowers that prefer acidic soil, such as orchids, camellias, azaleas, gardenias, Michelia, osmanthus, chrysanthemums, night-blooming primroses, white orchids, and magnolias, are suitable for growing in soils with a pH of 5-6. Otherwise, iron deficiency chlorosis is prone to occur. Strongly acidic or alkaline soils will affect the normal growth and development of flowers.

    There are many ways to change the pH of the soil: if the acidity is too high, some lime powder or plant ash can be added to the potting soil; to reduce the alkalinity, an appropriate amount of sulfur, aluminum sulfate, ferrous sulfate, humus fertilizer, etc. can be added. For a small amount of culture soil, the mixing ratio of rotten leaves or peat can be increased. For example, to meet the needs of flowers that like acidic soil, potted flowers can be watered with a 1:50 aqueous solution of aluminum sulfate (alum) or a 1:200 aqueous solution of ferrous sulfate; in addition, the application of sulfur powder can also be effective quickly, but the effect time is short, and it needs to be applied every 7-10 days.   

4. Disinfection

    Steaming sterilization method: put the prepared soil for cultivation into a suitable container and steam it in a pot to sterilize it. This method is limited to small-scale cultivation and is used when a small amount of soil is used. Steam can also be passed into the soil for sterilization, requiring the steam temperature to be 100-120℃ and the sterilization time to be 40-60 minutes. This is the most effective sterilization method.

    Formalin disinfection method: Sprinkle 400-500 ml of 40% formalin evenly on each cubic meter of cultivation soil, then pile up the soil and cover it with plastic film. After 48 hours, the formalin turns into gas, remove the film covering the pile, and spread the soil pile. When all the formalin turns into gas, disinfection is complete.

    Carbon disulfide disinfection method: first pile up the culture soil, drill several holes on the top of the soil pile, inject about 350 grams of carbon disulfide into 100 cubic meters of soil, and then cover the hole openings tightly with straw. After 48-72 hours, remove the straw cover, spread the soil pile, and let all the carbon disulfide dissipate.

    High temperature exposure method: Spread the prepared culture soil in proportion on a clean cement floor, expose it to the sun for 2 to 3 days, and turn it over frequently to kill a large number of fungal conidia, mycelium, and eggs, larvae and pathogenic nematodes of some pests. This method is mostly used from June to August. 

    Stir-fry disinfection method: Put the culture soil into an iron pan and stir-fry it over fire. After the soil particles become dry, fry it for 30 minutes. This can completely eliminate the pathogenic microorganisms in the culture soil and burn the organic matter in the soil into ash, making the soil more permeable and breathable, which is conducive to cutting and sowing. This method is suitable for a small amount of culture soil. 

    Disinfection method of mixing black alum with soil. Black alum is also known as ferrous sulfate. Add 2% to 3% ferrous sulfate to fine dry soil, mix evenly to make medicinal soil, and sprinkle it into the culture soil at 100 to 150 grams per square meter. It can kill pathogenic microorganisms in the soil. 

    Sulfur powder disinfection method Using sulfur powder to disinfect the soil can not only kill bacteria and insect eggs, but also improve the pH value of the soil. For flowers that like acid, adding an appropriate amount of sulfur powder to the culture soil can increase the acidity of the soil. Generally, apply 50 to 60 grams per square meter and mix well. 

    The wood ash liquid disinfection method uses 10 kg of wood ash, adds 50 kg of water and soaks it for 24 hours. The filtrate is sprayed on the culture soil, which can effectively prevent and control underground pests such as cutworms and maggots. Or, spreading wood ash in the culture soil can both kill bacteria and increase potassium fertilizer in the soil.　

How to adjust the pH value of flower pot soil

     For flowers and trees that prefer acid, a small amount of ferrous sulfate can be added to the potting soil; for flowers and trees that prefer alkaline, 10% old wall lime or 20% wood ash can be added to the potting soil to make the pH value adapt to the growth of flowers.

    As the saying goes, "everything grows with the sun." That is to say, sunlight is the most basic condition for all flowers to survive, grow and develop. Most flowers need light, but different types of flowers have different requirements for light intensity and sunshine length.

    The three basic temperature requirements for flower growth  

    The growth and development of each type of flower has certain temperature requirements, and there are "three basic points" of temperature:

    Minimum temperature: The lowest temperature required for flowers to start growing. If the temperature is lower than this, the flowers will not start growing.

    Optimum temperature: Within the optimum temperature range, flowers grow rapidly, healthily, and have the best growth and development.

    The highest temperature exceeds this value, and the plant stops growing.
    Different flower species and different climate types of origin have different "three base points" of temperature. Flowers originating from tropical areas have a higher base point temperature for growth, and generally start growing at 18°C; flowers originating from temperate zones have a lower base point temperature for growth, and generally start growing at around 10°C; flowers originating from subtropical zones have a base point temperature between the two, and generally start growing at around 15-16°C. For example, the seeds of tropical aquatic flowers Victoria amazonica must germinate and grow at a water temperature of 30-35°C, and most species of the genus Viper of the Cactaceae family require a high temperature of more than 28°C to grow. Peonies originating from temperate zones will not die in the underground part under the condition of more than ten degrees below zero in Beijing in winter, and can sprout and emerge from the ground at around 10°C in the next spring. The optimum temperature for growth is the temperature most suitable for growth. The optimum growth temperature referred to here is different from the optimum temperature referred to in plant physiology, that is, the temperature at which the growth rate is the fastest. It means that at this temperature, not only does the plant grow fast, but it also grows very healthily and does not grow tall.

     Effects of temperature on the growth and development of flowers

     Temperature affects every process and period of flower growth and development. For example, the dormancy of seeds or bulbs, the elongation of stems, the differentiation and development of flower buds, etc. are all closely related to temperature. The same flower has different requirements for temperature at different developmental stages, that is, the temperature requirements are constantly changing from seed germination to seed maturity. For annual flowers, seed germination can be carried out at a higher temperature, and the temperature is required to be lower during the seedling period, but later when the seedlings grow to the flowering and fruiting stage, the temperature requirements gradually increase. The germination of biennial flower seeds is carried out at a lower temperature, and the temperature required during the seedling period is even lower, otherwise it cannot pass the vernalization stage smoothly. When flowering and fruiting, it requires a temperature slightly higher than the vegetative growth period. Low temperature is also the key to breaking the dormancy period of many seeds. For example, when golden lotus seeds are collected on the top of Baihua Mountain at an altitude of 1,800 meters, they are rarely germinated when sown in the open field in Beijing at room temperature. After low temperature treatment, the germination rate can reach more than 60%.

    Temperature affects the accumulation of nutrients in flowers. High daytime temperatures are conducive to photosynthesis to form carbohydrates; low nighttime temperatures are conducive to inhibiting the decomposition of carbohydrates by respiration. Suitable day and night temperature differences: 3-6°C for tropical plants; 5-7°C for temperate plants; and above 10°C for desert plants. 

    Temperature affects flower bud differentiation and flowering. Some plants must differentiate flower buds at temperatures above 25°C, and break dormancy and bloom after a certain low temperature. Such as azalea, camellia, plum, gladiolus, tuberose, canna, etc. Some plants need to differentiate flower buds at relatively low or low temperatures. Such as autumn-sown grass flowers such as marigolds and daisies.

    Temperature affects flower color. As the temperature rises and the light intensity decreases, the color of many flowers becomes lighter. For example, the color of roses and dahlias becomes lighter when cultivated under high temperature conditions, and becomes brighter in cool places.

    Extreme high and low temperatures can cause plant death. Sudden high and low temperatures also have a great impact on the growth and development of flowers. Too high or too low temperatures can damage or kill flowers.   　

The effect of light length on flowers   

     Short-day plants are native to areas near the equator, where the annual day and night are almost 12 hours. They include tropical and subtropical plants. They can only flower when the daylight hours are shortened to 12 hours or less. For example, poinsettia and chrysanthemum. 

There are also some flower plants that have a high requirement for light duration. They cannot differentiate flower buds under long-day conditions and can only grow vegetatively. Flower bud differentiation only begins when the light duration is shortened to less than 12 hours, so they are called short-day flowers. In the summer, they can only grow vegetatively and begin to differentiate flower buds and bloom after the beginning of autumn.

    Long-day plants are native to temperate regions. Some flowers must be in a long-day environment of more than 13-14 hours to differentiate flower buds and then bloom and bear fruit. In flower cultivation, they are called long-day flowers. They
bloom in seasons when the daylight is longer than 12 hours, such as the types of plants that generally bloom in spring and summer.

    The influence of light composition on flowers Red, orange and yellow light in the sun are beneficial to the synthesis of plant carbohydrates; blue light is beneficial to

    Most flower plants have no obvious response to the length of light exposure. As long as the temperature is suitable and the nutrition is sufficient, they can bloom all year round. In flower cultivation, they are called medium-day flowers.

Plants can be divided into three categories based on their light intensity requirements:

    Light is the energy source for flowers and plants to produce nutrients. Without light, photosynthesis cannot be carried out, and the growth and development of flowers will be seriously affected. Most plants can only bloom and flourish under sufficient light conditions. Different types of flowers have different requirements for light. A flower proverb says: "Shadow camellia, Yang peony, semi-shade and semi-sun four-season orchid". According to the different requirements of flowers for light intensity, flowers can be roughly divided into positive flowers, neutral flowers and negative flowers. Photosynthesis refers to the process in which green plants use light energy through chloroplasts to convert carbon dioxide and water into organic matter that stores energy and releases oxygen.

    Positive plants, negative plants and neutral plants. Positive plants can only grow healthily under sufficient sunlight. Insufficient sunlight will cause the plants to grow slowly or even become sick. Positive flowers. Most ornamental flowers and fruit-viewing flowers are positive flowers, such as magnolia, rose, pomegranate, plum blossom, crape myrtle, citrus, etc. There are also a few positive flowers among foliage flowers, such as cycads, palms, croton, etc. Most aquatic flowers, cacti and succulents are also positive flowers. All positive flowers like strong light and cannot tolerate shade. If there is insufficient sunlight, it will easily cause the branches and leaves to grow too long, the tissues to become soft and weak, the leaves to become pale and yellow, it will be difficult to bloom or bloom poorly, and they will be susceptible to diseases and insect pests.

    Negative plants do not like long-term sunlight exposure. Generally, they only need one day of sunlight a week. Long-term sunlight exposure will cause sunburn to the plants. Negative flowers. They grow well in shaded environments, such as asparagus, camellia, azalea, hosta, green radish, dieffenbachia, ivy, gloxinia, monstera, begonia, etc. If they are exposed to strong light for a long time, their branches and leaves will turn yellow, their growth will stagnate, and in severe cases, they will even die.

    Neutral plants do not require high light intensity. Neutral flowers. They grow well under full sunlight, but they have no principle when the light intensity is high in summer. They need a little shade, such as osmanthus, jasmine, white orchid, hydrangea, etc.
     In summary, various flowers have different requirements for light, and even the same flower has different requirements for light at different stages of growth and development. The amount of light required by seedlings can be gradually increased, while positive chrysanthemums require short-day conditions to form flower buds.

Artificial long-day treatment:

     Method: Flowering under long-day light, in the season of short daylight, supplement the light with electric light - that is, artificial long-day light treatment (100LX of light is enough, generally the sunlight intensity at noon in summer is 100,000 LX). Long-day light treatment can make long-day plants bloom earlier, and delay the flowering of short-day plants. For example, long-day light treatment can make long-day plants bloom earlier, and delay the flowering of short-day plants. For example, most flowers that bloom in spring are long-day plants. There are also violets, musk lilies, single irises, cattails, geraniums, cineraria, four-season primroses, snapdragons, pansies, etc. They can bloom earlier under long-day light treatment.

Artificial short-day treatment:

    Make short-day plants, that is, plants that bloom in autumn, bloom earlier. These flowers bloom under short-day light. In the season with long daylight, shading short-day light treatment can promote flowering. If long-day light is given for a long time, flowering will be inhibited. Most flowers that bloom in autumn are short-day plants. Flowers that use short-day light for forced cultivation include:

    Commonly used for: chrysanthemum, poinsettia, euphorbia and triangular flower, etc. Flowers that can be used for short-day treatment include chrysanthemum, poinsettia, bougainvillea, etc. In the long-day season, these flowers can be shaded with black cloth, black paper or straw curtains for a certain number of hours to give them a longer dark period, which can promote their flowering. For example, chrysanthemum and poinsettia should be kept in darkness from 17:00 to 8:00 the next day. Poinsettia can bloom in about 40 days, and chrysanthemum can bloom in 50-70 days. Before short-day treatment, the branches should be of a certain length, and nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be increased to make the tissues fuller, so that the effect will be faster.

    The reaction of Epiphyllum to light is different from other flowers. It usually blooms at night, which is not convenient for viewing. However, if the buds are 6 to 10 cm long, the sunlight is blocked during the day and light is shined at night, the habit of flowering at night can be changed, so that it blooms in the daytime and the flowering time can be prolonged.　

How to pot

     Ornamental plants grown in greenhouses are mostly propagated in shallow pots or wooden boxes, and sometimes in open-air seedbeds. When the new plants have taken root or grown to a certain size, they need to be transplanted into pots. This is also called potting. Potting is the process of transplanting seedlings into pots.

     Potting is usually done in spring. The correct way to pot is to first cover the drainage holes in the pot with two layers of plastic window screens to facilitate drainage and ventilation. Spread a layer of coarse sand or coal slag (3 to 5 cm thick) on the broken tiles as a drainage layer, and then put a layer of culture soil on it. Slightly level the culture soil with your hands, then put the seedlings (preferably with the original soil) in the center of the pot, straighten it with your hands, and fill the surrounding areas of the seedlings with culture soil. When filling the soil, you should shake the flower pot while filling and gently compact it with your hands to make the roots closely contact with the soil. Finally, level the soil surface with your hands and gently press it, leaving a 2 to 3 cm edge on it for watering and fertilizing. Be careful not to press the roots too tightly when filling the soil, so that there is no gap between the soil, resulting in poor ventilation and drainage, which will affect the breathing of the root system, causing the seedlings to grow weak or even die. Immediately after the seedlings are planted, water them thoroughly and place them in a shaded place outdoors to slow down the growth. Do not rush to water the second time during the seedling acclimatization period. Wait until the surface of the pot soil turns white before watering the second time. Because the new roots have not yet grown at this time, the water absorption capacity is weak, and too much water will affect the survival. Topdressing can be applied after the seedlings resume growth. If the flower pot is a new clay pot, it is necessary to soak the new pot in clean water for 2 days before use to "anneal" it. Otherwise, the new clay pot will absorb a lot of water from the soil, which may cause the seedlings to suffer from water shortage and affect survival. If you use an old flower pot that has been used for many years, you need to wash it thoroughly and dry it before use. Because the bottom and wall of this pot are covered with mud, fertilizer liquid and even moss, the ventilation and water permeability are poor. If it is not cleaned, it will affect the growth of flowers.
     The diameter of the flower pot selected for potting should be roughly equal to the crown diameter of the branches and leaves of the seedlings, or it should be able to ensure that the root system can develop normally within one year. If the seedlings are large and the pots are small, and there is too little soil in the pots, it will not only affect the development of the root system, but also affect the survival and growth; if the seedlings are small and the pots are too large, and there is too much soil in the pots, the soil in the pots will be too moist for a long time after watering, which can easily lead to lack of oxygen in the pots, causing poor root growth or even death. Before using a new pot, it should be "annealed" and de-alkalied, that is, soak it in clean water for a day and night before planting flowers. Scrub and dry it before using it to remove its dryness. Before using the old pot, sterilize and disinfect it to prevent it from carrying germs and insect eggs. The specific method is as follows: After replacing the old pot, expose it in the sun for sterilization. Before reusing it, it should be scrubbed clean inside and out to remove any insect eggs that may exist. If necessary, spray it with pesticides for disinfection.      

    When planting flowers and trees, you should pay attention to several key points:

    Place the flower plant in the center of the pot, straighten it, and then slowly add the culture soil around it. When half of the soil is added, gently press it with your fingers to make it fully combined with the plant. For flowers and trees without soil, when half of the soil is added, you can gently lift the seedling upwards, and then add soil while gently pressing the soil until it is about 2 cm to 3 cm away from the edge of the pot. However, when planting orchids, you can add soil to the edge of the pot, which is conducive to the growth of orchids.

    After the flowers and trees are planted, water them thoroughly once so that the soil in the pot can absorb all the water, and then place them in a shaded place outdoors for half a month. Do not fertilize them. After the flowers and trees gradually recover and adapt to the pot soil environment, the flowers that like the sun can be moved to the sun and taken care of normally.

    Large seedlings of woody flowers are usually potted from early December to late March when the flowers and trees are dormant or just sprouting. Otherwise, it will affect normal growth and development, weaken the tree vigor, and it will take a long time to recover. For centralized cutting propagation, the seedlings should be divided and potted in time after they take root and put leaves. New seedlings should be potted when they are mature. For most perennial flowers, they should be potted when the young buds just begin to sprout.

    When planting bare-root seedlings (without soil at the roots), delicate seedlings or seedlings with severe root damage should be planted in plain sandy soil for a period of time. Pay attention to wind protection in spring and shade in summer when necessary. After the root system is strong, turn the pot upside down and plant it in culture soil. Strong bare-root seedlings or seedlings with soil at the roots, as well as perennial flowers, can be planted in culture soil according to the growth and habits of the seedlings, and some base fertilizer should be added appropriately. When planting bare-root seedlings, the bottom soil should be piled into a small hill in the center of the pot. One hand should be used to straighten the seedlings, and the roots should be evenly spread out. The other hand should be used to fill the soil, and the seedlings should be gently lifted up as they are filled, so that the roots extend downward at a 45° angle. For flowers with longer roots, the seedlings can be rotated when potting so that the long roots are evenly coiled in the pot. After any flower is potted, the soil must be piled up solidly, and the soil below the pot should not be empty or solid above the pot. Compacting by hand can easily damage the roots. The soil for potting should be moist, that is, it can be lumped together and will fall apart when kneaded. After potting, it is advisable to place it in a sheltered, humid place without watering for the time being. In dry weather, you can spray water at any time to protect the seedlings. Generally, you should water it thoroughly after 4-48 hours. This can not only prevent the roots from rotting and shrinking, but also promote the rapid growth and rejuvenation of new roots. After placing it in the shade for about 7 days, according to the habits of the seedlings, move it to a sunny place or under a shade shed and transfer it to normal maintenance.

    Combined with potting, the plants should be pruned, and the overly long fibrous roots, diseased and dead branches, overly dense branches and leaves should be cut off. For overly weak plants and flowers and trees that bloom on branches of the current year, they can be cut off 10 cm from the base of the stem to promote the growth and development of strong branches.
　

Special mention should be made of:

At present, most or most of the seedlings purchased from the flower and bird market are from professional flower production enterprises. The seedlings produced by these enterprises are cultivated under professional culture soil, fertilizers, hormones and constant temperature factory conditions. When they are put on the market, they are mainly packed in plastic bags. After returning, they must be "repotted". These flower seedlings have a long process of adapting to the new environment of the family. If the measures are not appropriate, they are likely to die on the way.

To this end, the following points must be noted: 1/. We do not have the same culture soil, but the culture soil we prepare ourselves has at least similar performance; 2/. Try not to disturb the original soil of the root system, and only add the culture soil you prepare on the outside; 3/. In terms of environmental temperature, humidity, light intensity, etc., try to suit the growth requirements as much as possible; 4/. After the seedlings grow normally, gradually "transform" them according to the home environment and conditions.
　

Repotting

     Most families who grow flowers will encounter the problem of changing pots for flowers and trees. For example, when changing from ground planting to potted plants, from ordinary soil pots to purple sand pots, glazed porcelain pots, or as woody flower plants grow, their roots gradually fill the pots, their growth is restricted, and the soil becomes poor and lacks nutrients, so they are transplanted from small pots to medium pots, large pots, etc. At this time, the correct potting method is the key to the survival of flowers and trees.

Repotting is commonly known as "turning the pot", which means changing the potted plants to another pot for cultivation. Repotting is one of the important measures to grow potted flowers well.

    There are generally the following situations where you need to change the pot:

     1. As flowers and trees grow and their roots develop, the original pots can no longer meet their needs and must be replaced with larger pots.
     2. As flowers and trees grow, their roots continuously absorb nutrients from the soil, and with frequent watering and rain, the organic fertilizer in the pot soil gradually seeps out and decreases, causing the soil to become compacted and its permeability to deteriorate (i.e., the soil lacks nutrients and the physical properties of the soil deteriorate), which is not conducive to the continued growth and development of flowers and trees. The culture soil needs to be replaced.
     3. If the roots of the flowers and trees are sick, or there are insect pests, or earthworms are found in the pot soil, they need to be transplanted and repotted immediately.
   

     Precautions

      1. During the production process of flower pots, the bottom holes of the pots often have a circle of upward edges. If this edge is not removed, it will affect the drainage in the rainy season. It should be knocked off when changing pots. When potting, you can also use a piece of plastic window screen as a bottom pad to prevent grubs and earthworms from entering the pot.

      2. When repotting, you must use a sharp spade to scrape off the outer layer of old roots, and the topsoil of the roots also needs to be loosened with a spade. Otherwise, the roots will bend and curl around the pot wall without stretching, and will be easily affected by drought, waterlogging, cold and heat changes, and the plants will often not develop well.

      3. After repotting with new soil, the soil must be compacted to avoid holes in the soil after watering, which will affect the root system's absorption of water. In addition, a watering edge must be left, and the pot must not be completely full without a place to stop watering.

       4. Water thoroughly. When watering for the first time after repotting, it is best to use the immersion method. Put the potted flowers in the basin of water and wait until the surface of the potting soil is moist before taking them out. After the first watering, wait until the surface of the potting soil is dry and white before watering again. Follow the principle of "don't water unless it's dry".

    Flowers should be repotted once a year, and pine and cypress trees should be repotted every three years. This should usually be done on a cloudy day in autumn or early spring before the buds sprout. The soil in the new pot should be thoroughly wetted. After the potted tree is removed from the pot, a layer of old soil around it should be removed with a bamboo stick, and part of the old roots should be cut off. Most of the new roots can also be cut off and fixed in a larger pot, but the new pot should not be much larger than the original pot.

      One- or two-year-old herbaceous flowers grow rapidly, and generally need to be repotted 2-4 times from seedling to flowering. Repotting more often can make the plant stronger and delay the flowering period. The last repotting is called "planting". Most perennial flowers are repotted once a year, and most woody flowers are repotted every 2-3 years. Perennial and woody flowers are often repotted in autumn when growth is about to stop or before growth begins in early spring. Evergreen flowers can also be repotted during the rainy season, because the air humidity is high at this time, the water evaporates less from the leaves, and the impact of repotting is small. If the greenhouse conditions are suitable and the management is proper, the pots can be repotted all year round, but they should not be repotted during flowering or when the flowers are formed, otherwise the flowering period will be affected.

     Succulent plants should be repotted every 1 to 3 years (some varieties of seedlings can even be transplanted several times a year, commonly known as "move it, it will grow bigger"). Most varieties are generally repotted from mid-March to early April, while some "winter-type" species that grow in winter and hibernate in summer can also be repotted from late August to early September. In short, the best time to repot is when the dormant period is about to end and the plant is about to grow. Clumping plants can also be propagated by division at the same time as repotting. In addition, if the plant is found to have root rot, emergency repotting can be performed at any time.

　　 Stop watering 3 to 5 days before repotting. When repotting, first remove the plant from the pot and shake off the soil at the roots. Cut off all old roots, rotten roots, and hollow roots, and retain a strong, full, and well-absorbent root system. However, varieties with hypertrophic fleshy roots such as the Cactaceae genus and the genus Opuntia should not be over-pruned, because these fleshy roots store rich nutrients. Excessive pruning will affect growth, and in severe cases, the roots may rot and the entire plant may die. If there are young plants next to the old plants, you can break them off, trim the roots appropriately, remove the dry leaves, and plant them separately. If the wound is too large when dividing the plant, you can apply sulfur powder, charcoal powder, carbendazim or other anti-rot drugs to the wound, and let it air dry for 3 to 7 days, and then pot it after the wound is dry.
　

 Choosing the time to repot

      Usually, repotting should be done during the dormant period of trees, from the end of February to early March in early spring, and at the latest in early April. At this time, the metabolism of trees is slow, and new roots have not yet sprouted, so trees are not easily injured when repotting. If the trees are repotted too early, they are prone to frost damage. If they are repotted too late, the temperature will rise, new roots will sprout, and repotting will easily cause trees to be injured. However, different trees can have different repotting times: broad-leaved evergreen trees such as boxwood and gardenia can be repotted during the mildew and rainy period; five-needle pine can be repotted in March or October; plum blossoms should be repotted after flowering and before budding; southern trees such as banyan, Fujian tea, and bougainvillea should be repotted after the temperature warms up in late spring. If there are special circumstances, repotting can be done in other seasons as long as the maintenance measures keep up. For example, if you repot in winter, just place it in a greenhouse, and if you repot in summer, place it under a shade shed and carefully maintain it for a period of time, it can ensure good growth. Although the temperature is high during the rainy season and trees begin to grow vigorously, the transpiration of trees is small due to the high humidity, so repotting is also safe. Some experienced bonsai masters even choose to repot during the rainy season, believing that repotting at this time is more conducive to promoting growth in the current year. The author has also repotted many times during the rainy season, and achieved good results without any failure records.
In order to ensure the safe survival of trees after repotting, some branches and leaves are often cut off before and after repotting to reduce the evaporation of water from the trees.
     

Also worth mentioning are:

    At present, most of the finished flowers purchased from the flower and bird market are from professional flower production enterprises. The seedlings produced by these enterprises are cultivated under professional culture soil, fertilizers, hormones and constant temperature factory conditions. When they are put on the market, they are packed in plastic bags or standard pots.

    After returning, the ones that look like they are packed in plastic bags must be repotted. When repotting, the principle and method of "potting" should be followed.

    For flowers that are in bloom and in "standard pots", it is recommended to "repot" them after they bloom. In principle, they should be handled according to the "potting" method.

    These flower seedlings have a long process of adapting to the new environment of the home. If the measures are not taken properly, they are likely to die along the way. This is especially true for "off-season" varieties (i.e., varieties that are cultivated in greenhouses and have non-normal flowering seasons).　

    In addition: Regarding the issue of watering the plants after potting or repotting.

    Not all flowers and seedlings need to be watered or given "rooting water" after being potted or repotted. Succulent plants such as cacti, balls, sticks, etc. must not be watered immediately after being potted or repotted. Otherwise, they will all rot.

    To sum up: When planting or repotting different flowers, it is recommended to check the performance, characteristics, and precautions of the variety before proceeding.

    1. Physiological diseases: caused by non-biological factors such as temperature, humidity, soil fertilizer and other environmental factors, causing physiological disorders of flowers and pathological changes, which are often manifested as leaf discoloration, yellowing, scorching of leaf tips and edges, falling leaves, flowers and fruits, etc. As long as the environmental factors are improved, the symptoms will be alleviated, and the flowers will gradually grow strong. In this case, no drug treatment is needed at all.

    2. Infectious diseases

    Virus diseases: Viruses are tiny parasites without cell structures. They are infected by mechanical damage such as insects, grafting, plugging and pruning. When flowers are sick, the main symptoms are mosaic, dead spots, yellowing leaves, deformities, and clustered plants. These viruses overwinter in seeds, diseased stumps, soil and insects. Prevention and control of viral diseases should be based on prevention and comprehensive control. Methods for preventing and controlling diseases and insects: First, disinfect the soil. You can use burnt soil or formalin (40%) diluted 50-300 times, spray the soil and cover it with plastic film, open and turn it after 5 days, and use it as flower pot soil after 3 days. Secondly, warm treatment, such as general seeds can be soaked in 50℃~55℃ warm water for 10 minutes to 15 minutes; third, choose disease-resistant and disease-resistant varieties, which is the fundamental way to prevent and control viral diseases. Strictly select non-toxic breeding materials; fourth, spray 1000-1500 times of 40% dimethoate emulsion at an appropriate time to eliminate aphids, whiteflies and other virus-transmitting insects; fifth, remove and burn diseased plants in time, and wash hands and tools that have come into contact with diseased plants with soapy water to prevent human contact transmission; sixth, remove weeds to reduce the source of virus infection. In addition, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, and fertilize and water reasonably to promote the healthy growth of flowers, which can reduce viral diseases.

    Bacterial diseases: Bacteria are single-celled microorganisms that often spread through running water, rain, insects, bacteria, soil and remnants of diseased plants. They invade the body of flowers through the pores or wounds of plants, causing them to become infected, such as soft rot, bacterial wilt, root cancer, bacterial punching, etc. (1) Methods for preventing and controlling soft rot: First, it is best to change the culture soil for potted plants once a year; second, immediately water the root soil of the diseased plants with 600-800 times dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane after the disease occurs. (2) Bacterial punching: First, spray 65% ​​mancozeb 600 times solution before the disease occurs; second, promptly remove the affected parts and burn them; third, spray 50% thiocarb 800-1000 times solution at the early stage of the disease. (3) Root cancer: First, choose germ-free seedlings or treat the soil with pentachloronitrobenzene when planting; second, immediately remove the diseased tumors after the disease occurs and disinfect them with 0.1% mercury water.

    Fungal diseases: Fungi are multicellular lower plants without chlorophyll. They can parasitize on flowers and can also saprophytize on dead bodies. Their spores are spread by wind, rain, and insects. Fungi can cause powdery mildew, rust, black spot, damping-off, sooty mold, white rot, and sclerotinia. Prevention and control of fungal diseases (1) Powdery mildew, anthracnose, black spot, brown spot, leaf spot, gray mold and other diseases: First, apply fertilizer and water properly, and pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. Excessive watering, water accumulation after rain, poor drainage from the holes at the bottom of the pot, poor soil quality, and failure to repot and change the soil for a long time can also cause fungal flower diseases, and the roots often turn black. Because the conductive tissues of the leaves and roots are connected, if there is a problem with the roots, it will inevitably be reflected in the branches and leaves. Therefore, attention should also be paid to the soil quality, moisture content, and drainage performance. In addition, the application of uncomposted organic fertilizers can easily cause diseases. When making fertilizers with domestic organic waste, you can add Jinbaobei biological fermentation agent (Jinbaobei organic material composting agent). It can accelerate the decomposition and eliminate the bacteria in it. Second, remove dead branches and leaves in early spring or late autumn and promptly cut off diseased branches and leaves and burn them; third, spray 65% ​​mancozeb 600 times diluted for protection; fourth, spray 50% carbendazim or 50% thiophanate 500-600 times diluted, or 75% chlorothalonil 600-800 times diluted in the early stage of the disease. (2) Sooty mold: First, wash the diseased branches and leaves with clean water and spray 50% carbendazim 500-800 times diluted after the disease occurs; second, avoid stagnant water. (3) Rust: In addition to the above methods, spray 97% sodium dimethoate 250-300 times diluted (with 0.1% laundry detergent) or 25% triadimefon 1500-2500 times diluted after the disease occurs. (4) White rot and Sclerotinia rot: First, use 1% formalin solution or 70% pentachloronitrobenzene to treat the soil, about 5g-8g of pentachloronitrobenzene/m2, mix with 30 times fine soil and apply to the soil; second, choose disease-free seedlings or soak them in 70% thiophanate 500 times solution for 10 minutes before planting; third, watering should be reasonable to avoid waterlogging. (5) Damping-off and root rot: First, disinfect the soil, treat the soil with 1% formalin or steam the culture soil in a pot for 1 hour; second, avoid waterlogging; third, in the early stage of the disease, irrigate the root zone with 500-400 times solution of 50% mancozeb, and use 2-4 kg/m2 of the solution.

    Nematode disease: Nematodes are tiny round worms that parasitize on the roots of plants. They use their lance-shaped proboscis to pierce the root cells of plants, causing nodules to form. This is called nematode disease. Prevention and control: (1) Soil should be disinfected before it can be used as potting soil. (2) Diseased flowers and soil should not be introduced into home flowers. (3) If a disease is found, you can use furadan to kill the nematodes by sprinkling it into the potting soil. Nematodes are tiny round worms that parasitize on the roots of plants. They use their lance-shaped proboscis to pierce the root cells of plants, causing nodules to form. This is called nematode disease. The main methods of prevention and control are: first, soil disinfection. Steam the culture soil in a steamer for about 2 hours. Second, hot water treatment. Soak the diseased part used for breeding in hot water (soak for 10 minutes at 50 degrees Celsius and soak for 5 minutes at 55 degrees Celsius). This can kill the nematodes without harming the host. Third, turning and drying the soil several times during the dog days can kill a large number of pathogenic nematodes; fourth, remove diseased plants, diseased remains and wild hosts; fifth, fertilize and water properly to make the plants grow strong, which can also effectively reduce nematode diseases.

      3. Traditional medicine

  Milk: Friends who grow flowers know that ticks are a major enemy of flowers. This tiny pest can cause the leaves to change color and wither. If you mix 4 cups of flour and half a cup of whole milk into 20 liters of clean water, stir well, filter with gauze, and then spray the liquid on the leaves and branches of flowers, it can kill most ticks and their eggs.

　　Tobacco pest control method: Cigarette butts: Aphids are another natural enemy of household flowers, and there is no better medicine than nicotine. You can soak a few cigarette butts in a cup of water, wait for the water to turn yellow-brown, then add a little alkaline soap solution, stir well and spray on the flowers, or immerse the affected parts of the flowers in the liquid medicine, which can effectively kill aphids in the flowers and soil.

　　Cleaning liquid pest control method: dishwashing liquid: whiteflies are the most common pests in greenhouses. They are about 1-2 mm long and hide on the back of leaves to suck leaf juice. At the same time, they also secrete a kind of mucus. The bacteria that grow on the mucus will gradually wither the leaves, causing the flowers to slowly die. To deal with whiteflies, you can mix one teaspoon of dishwashing liquid with 4 liters of water and spray the back of the leaves every four or five days until the whiteflies are completely eliminated.

　　Beer: Beer is a very cheap remedy for snails. Pour the unfinished beer into a small dish placed on the flower soil, and the snails will crawl into the dish and drown.

　　Vinegar: For azaleas and gardenias that prefer acidic soil, if hard water is used for watering, the lime content in the soil will increase, causing the leaves of the plants to gradually turn yellow and wither. You only need to pour vinegar water made of 2 spoons of vinegar and 1 liter of water around the flowers every two weeks, and the yellow leaves will disappear.　

    Water is the source of life for flowers. Any flower cannot live without water during its growth and development. If the water supply is out of balance, it will have adverse effects on the flowers. Why do we say this? Because water is an important component of flowers, especially the component of protoplasm, the substance of life activities. In other words, without water, cells cannot divide, protoplasm will stop moving, and life will stop. Water is also a medium for the absorption and transportation of nutrients. Various substances, sugars, oxygen, carbon dioxide, etc. must first be dissolved in water before they can be absorbed and used by flowers for material circulation. Water can also maintain the tension of plant cells and tissues, so that flowers can remain in a stretched state, which is beneficial to the physiological activities of flowers. Water is also one of the main raw materials for photosynthesis of flowers to produce organic matter. Without raw materials, photosynthesis cannot be carried out, and flowers will "starve to death".

    If potted flowers are watered too much, the water fills the gaps in the soil, and the air in the soil is replaced by water. At this time, the outside air cannot enter, resulting in soil hypoxia, which hinders the respiration of the roots, reduces physiological functions, and hinders the root system's ability to absorb water and fertilizer. At the same time, the soil lacks oxygen, and aerobic bacteria with the function of decomposing organic matter in the soil multiply and become active, increasing the acidity of the soil. Due to the wanton activity of butyric acid bacteria, a series of toxic substances such as hydrogen sulfide and ammonia are produced, which directly poison the root system. At the same time, due to the lack of oxygen, the plants consume a large amount of soluble sugar in the body and accumulate too much alcohol and other substances, which greatly reduces photosynthesis and finally causes the flowers to die of hunger. In the practice of flower cultivation, it is often seen that due to excessive watering, the roots of flowers turn black and rot, and the flowers are "drowned". Therefore, when cultivating flowers, pay attention to the amount of watering. In addition, do not spray water on the flowers during the flowering period.

    If the water supply is insufficient, the leaves and petioles will shrink and droop, and the flowers will wilt. If the flowers are not watered for a long time, the older leaves and the leaves at the bottom of the plant will gradually turn yellow and dry up. If most grass flowers are in a state of drought for a long time, the plants will be short, the leaves will lose their bright green luster, and even the whole plant will die. Some flower growers are afraid of overwatering, so they water only half of the soil each time, that is, the amount of water they water can only moisten the topsoil, while the lower soil is dry. This watering method will also affect the development of the root system of flowers and cause the above-mentioned undesirable phenomena. Therefore, watering should be done when the soil is dry and wet, and water thoroughly when watering.

　  If the leaves droop due to lack of water, you should immediately spray water on the leaves to speed up the plant's absorption of water, and then water the pot. At this time, be careful to water less, just keep the soil moist, and do not water too much.

　  Determine whether potted flowers need watering

　　If the surface color of the potting soil is brown-red, and it feels soft and moist when you press it with your fingers, and the sound made by tapping the wall of the pot with your fingers is turbid and dull, then the potting soil is moist and does not need watering; if the surface color of the potting soil becomes lighter and white, and it feels hard when you press it with your fingers, and the sound made by tapping the wall of the pot is crisp and loud, then the potting soil is dry and needs watering.

　  The frequency, time and amount of watering for potted flowers

　　After the spring, the temperature starts to rise and the flowers enter the growth period. The amount of watering should be gradually increased. Generally, flowers should be watered once every 2 to 3 days. As the temperature rises, it should be watered once a day. In July, during the high temperature period, water should be watered twice a day. The best time for watering is between 10 am and 4 pm.

　　Different types of flowers have different habits and require different amounts of water. Flowers that like moisture, such as ferns, orchids, and begonias, should be watered more; flowers that like drought, such as Crassulaceae, cacti, and agaves, should be watered less; and bulbous flowers should not be watered too much.

　　Different growth and development stages require different amounts of water. Flowers that enter the growth stage from the dormant period should be watered gradually; flowers in the vigorous growth period should be watered more; water should be reduced in the early stage of flower bud differentiation, the seedling stage, and before repotting; less water should be given in the early stage of flowering and fruiting, and appropriate watering should be given in the peak flowering period; flowers that are newly planted or repotted must be watered thoroughly for the first watering.

　　The properties of the culture soil are different, and the water retention capacity varies greatly, so the amount of watering should also be different. Sandy loose soil has poor water retention capacity, so more water should be given; heavy clay soil has strong water retention capacity, so less water should be given.

　　The amount of watering also depends on the size and texture of the flower pot. If the flower pot is small, the soil in the pot dries quickly, so the watering frequency should be increased, while the opposite is true for large flower pots. Clay pots have a loose texture and good water permeability. The water lost through evaporation from the pot wall is more than the water consumed by the flowers, so they should be watered more frequently; ceramic pots, glazed pots, and purple sand pots have a fine texture and poor water permeability and air permeability, so they should be watered less; plastic pots are impermeable and airtight, so they should be watered even less.

　　Rainwater, pond water, and river water are the most suitable water. Tap water can also be used for flowers, but it is best to store the tap water for 1 to 2 days before use.

　　Watering method

　　Immersion method: immerse the flower pot in a basin of water and let the water seep into the soil through the holes at the bottom of the pot until the soil is completely soaked. This method is often used for newly potted flowers and seedlings in flower pots to prevent watering from the outside from dispersing the soil or displacing the seeds, affecting germination.

　　Watering with a watering can: Use a watering can to pour water directly onto the surface of the pot. This method is often used for larger flowers and trees.

　　Watering with a watering can: Use a watering can to spray water on the leaves and pot surface of the plant. This method is often used for newly potted seedlings, cuttings and foliage plants. However, some flowers are particularly sensitive to water, such as Gloxinia, Calceolaria, Begonia, etc., whose leaves have thick hairs. It is not easy to evaporate after spraying water, and the leaves are easy to rot; the leaf buds on the top of the cyclamen bulb and the flower buds of gerbera are easy to rot and wither after being wet, so it is not suitable to use water spray. For blooming flowers, it is also not advisable to spray too much water, otherwise it is easy to cause the petals to rot or affect fertilization, reducing the fruiting rate.

　　When potted flowers begin to wilt, first move the wilted plants to a cool, sheltered place, spray a small amount of water on the leaves and potting soil, and then water them thoroughly after the plants have recovered.

　　To keep the leaves moist, spray water on them 4 to 5 times a day. During the day, place a basin of water under the flowerpot and place the flowerpot on a wooden bar so that the water can evaporate at high temperature and create the air humidity required for the azalea to bloom.

    Some books and periodicals say that when watering flowers, you should "water thoroughly when the soil is dry" and "water when the soil is dry". These words should be understood rationally, and not be too wordy. It can be said that no flower can be completely dry, and completely dry soil will cause physiological diseases to the growth of flowers. In principle, no matter what kind of flower, the soil in the flowerpot should be "watery but not wet, and lacking water but not dry". Of course, it is not easy to achieve this step, and it requires more attention, more observation, and more practice. An old florist has a real saying, which is "water thoroughly but not leaking". This saying is not only very practical, but also very scientific.

    Fertilization　　

    Fertilize according to the type of flowers

　　Different types of flowers require fertilizers of different properties. The types of fertilizers should be reasonably matched, otherwise nutritional deficiencies are likely to occur. Green foliage plants, such as Monstera, Chlorophytum, Asparagus Fern, Cycas revoluta, etc., are generally fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers, which can promote the growth of branches and leaves and make the color dark green; colorful foliage plants, such as Coleus, Caladium, Dieffenbachia, etc., in addition to nitrogen fertilizers, should also pay attention to adding phosphorus fertilizers and potassium fertilizers, otherwise it will cause the leaves to grow too long, the stripes to disappear, and the colors to be dull; flowering and fruiting flowers, such as Pansy, Calendula, Petunia, and Capsicum annuum, should be fertilized with complete fertilizers, with more nitrogen fertilizers applied during the seedling stage, and more during the flower bud differentiation period and bud formation period. Apply more phosphorus fertilizers in the early stage of growth and flowering to promote the growth of flowers and fruits; for flowers that bloom multiple times a year, such as roses, jasmine, Milan, etc., apply phosphorus fertilizers mainly to promote multiple flowering; bulbous flowers should be fertilized with more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to facilitate the development of the bulb; flowers in the south that like acidic soil walls, such as rhododendrons, camellias, gardenias, bromeliads, ferns, etc., should avoid applying alkaline fertilizers, and should apply acidic fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate and superphosphate. If necessary, add ferrous sulfate to adjust the soil pH value to ensure lush flowers and leaves.

    Fertilization method and dosage

    There are two methods for fertilizing potted flowers in spring: base fertilizer and topdressing.

　　Fertilizer applied to the soil before planting or potting flowers is called basal fertilizer. For flowers that need to be potted or repotted in spring, some basal fertilizer can be applied in conjunction with potting or repotting. Basal fertilizer is generally organic fertilizer, such as poultry and livestock manure, bean cake, compost, bone meal, etc., which must be fully decomposed before use. The amount of basal fertilizer should not exceed 20% of the total amount of potting soil. It should be mixed with culture soil or placed at the bottom of the pot or around the pot. Do not let the plant roots fall directly on the basal fertilizer at the bottom of the pot. A layer of soil should be used to separate the roots from the basal fertilizer.

　　During the growth period, flowers need to add fertilizer at any time, which is called topdressing. Topdressing is mostly based on liquid fertilizer, which is conducive to soil absorption and root utilization. The principle of topdressing is "thin fertilizer and frequent application", and both organic fertilizer and inorganic fertilizer can be applied. Organic fertilizer can usually be made of fermented cake fertilizer water and sesame paste residue water. When used, it should be diluted with water, and the concentration should not exceed 5%. Because the roots of potted flowers in early spring are relatively tender, they are easily harmed by concentrated fertilizer or undecomposed organic fertilizer, causing the leaf edges to turn yellow and scorch. Therefore, it should be applied once every 10 to 15 days at the beginning. As the temperature rises and the growth of the plant increases, the number of fertilizations should be gradually increased, and fertilization should be applied once every 7 to 10 days. The concentration of the fertilizer solution should also be gradually increased to 10% to 15%. Add 10 grams of ferrous sulfate to each kilogram of cake fertilizer, add water and fully decompose it, which is alum fertilizer water. Alum fertilizer water is mostly used for flowers that like acidic soil, which can make the leaves of sandalwood plants dark green. Inorganic fertilizers, commonly used are urea, ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc., and attention must be paid to the concentration when using them. Generally, it should be controlled at 0.1% to 0.5% to avoid harm caused by excessive concentration.

　　Spraying fertilizer solution on plant leaves, which is absorbed and utilized by plants through stomata, is called foliar fertilization. Foliar fertilization is usually used when flowers are growing vigorously or when they lack certain nutrients. Generally, it can be absorbed by plants 4 to 5 hours after spraying, and 50% to 75% can be absorbed by plants within 24 hours, and the fertilizer effect can last for 7 to 10 days. When spraying, the concentration should be strictly controlled. Generally, urea is 0.1%, superphosphate is 0.5% to 1.0%, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate is 0.05% to 0.1%. When spraying, choose a clear and windless morning or evening, and spray the fertilizer solution evenly on both sides of the plant leaves, preferably spraying wet.

　　Fertilization time and precautions

　　Fertilizing potted flowers in spring should be done in the morning or evening on sunny days. It is not suitable to fertilize on rainy days or when the pot soil is wet. It is best to loosen the pot soil before fertilizing, and then apply it after the pot soil is slightly dry, which is conducive to the infiltration of fertilizer and water. After fertilizing, the leaves should be sprayed with clean water immediately to prevent the fertilizer liquid from contaminating the leaves and causing yellow or scorched leaves. Water again the next day to promote the root system to absorb and utilize the fertilizer.

　　For newly emerged seedlings, newly grafted seedlings, and newly repotted flowers, do not apply fertilizer for the time being, otherwise it will affect their root development and even cause death.

For safety reasons, you can spray water on the leaves once after fertilization to wash away the fertilizer drops that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plants in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as Clivia, Begonia, Calla Lily, Cyclamen, Daphne, Aloe, Kalanchoe, Purslane, Christmas Cacti, Sedum, Oxalis triangularis, Cacti, and Prickly Pear, all forms of topdressing should be stopped, otherwise it is easy to cause plant root rot or death.

　　Improper fertilization: Long-term lack of fertilizer or insufficient fertilization during the growth period of potted flowers will cause yellow leaves; excessive application of concentrated fertilizer will burn the roots and affect water absorption, which will also cause yellow leaves. You can water more to dilute and wash away the fertilizer in the soil. Lack of fertilizer can cause the pot soil to become compacted, the leaves to become yellow, thin, and thin, and the branches to be slender, yellow, and tender. Fertilizer should be applied immediately.　

    Flower growth regulators are a general term for artificial plant hormones that can regulate flower growth, flowering, dormancy, germination, etc. This type of artificial hormone plays an important role in plant physiological functions and morphological changes. Plant hormones are natural compounds produced in plant metabolism. They can affect plant cell
differentiation . Among the various components of the culture medium, none can have a greater impact than plant hormones.

    ㈠Plant auxins, mainly indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid (IBA), naphthylacetic acid (NAA), gibberellin (GA), etc.

    Plant auxin mainly has the functions of promoting cell division and rooting. Auxin is the earliest discovered plant hormone. It is widely distributed in higher plants and is concentrated in tissues with vigorous growth. Compounds similar to auxin are commonly used in flowers, including naphthylacetic acid, indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid, etc. It has a significant effect on promoting growth, stimulating cambium activity, the formation of new roots, inducing parthenocarpy and fruit development, etc.

    Auxin has many physiological effects, which are related to its concentration. Low concentrations can promote growth, while high concentrations can inhibit growth and even cause plant death. This inhibitory effect is related to whether it can induce the formation of ethylene.

　　Gibberellic acid (GA) is a natural plant hormone that promotes stem and leaf elongation, breaks dormancy, promotes flower bud formation, promotes flowering, and prevents organ shedding. Gibberellic acid exists in young plant tissues such as young buds, young roots, immature seeds, and embryos. There are many types, and now they can be artificially produced through fermentation. The most used is gibberellic acid GA3. The function of gibberellins is to promote the elongation of plant internodes and release the dormancy of seeds, tubers, and buds. It can partially replace the effects of low temperature and long daylight, promote flowering of long-day plants and biennial plants, induce parthenocarpy and inhibit aging. It has a great impact on the growth of new shoots and a slow effect on roots.

    Peonies bloom in spring from April to May, and are most outstanding in blooming half a year earlier. Varieties that are easy to promote flowering, such as 'Zhao Fen', should be selected. Buds should be picked in March, and topdressing should be applied from April to August. Short-day lighting and ice cooling should be used from July to August to promote leaf fall. In July, the plants should be potted or planted under a shed. From late August to early September, 200 to 1000 ppm of gibberellin should be applied to the flower buds once a day, so that they can bloom in late September and early October. Varieties that have been successfully tested include 'Zhao Fen', 'He Bai', and 'Qinglong Wo Mo Chi', which have a flowering period of only 3 days (2). For those that want to bloom before National Day, a temperature treatment of 5 to 10°C can be given to appropriately delay flowering. The above experiment was repeated in 1977 and 1979, and it was confirmed that a daily treatment of 500 to 1000 ppm of gibberellin was the best, and after 4 to 7 days, it could break the dormancy of the flower buds and promote early germination. In terms of variety selection, in addition to 'Zhaofen', it was found that 'Yu Lu Miao Zhuang', 'Qunying' and 'Zilan Kui' had good performance in inducing flowering (19, 20).

    Michelia figo (Lour.) Spreng. was originally an evergreen shrub that blooms fragrant flowers in April and May. Now we select Michelia that has been potted for many years but has no flowers in the same year and place it under a shade shed in summer. Fertilize weekly, flower buds appear in late July, and remove young leaves in early August. Then apply 100ppm gibberellin to the flower buds once a week, and then gradually increase the concentration to 200-500ppm. Peel off the flower bud shells in mid-September, and it will bloom in about 3 days. The flowering period is 3 days, and the flower diameter is 4 cm. Because the pedicels are elongated, the fragrance is also strong, which is quite eye-catching. Gibberellin promotes the early flowering of Michelia, mainly to promote the growth of flower buds and the blooming of flowers (2). It takes about one month from the application of gibberellin to flowering.

    The Shanghai Botanical Garden increased the gibberellin concentration to 500-1000 ppm, and applied it to peonies every 1-3 days since July. In addition to 'Little Peach Red', other varieties include 'Simianjin', 'Dongfangliang', 'Shizixiao', and 'Golden Heart Peony'.

    Starting from August 1, 1979, Beijing Zhongshan Park used 500ppm gibberellin to apply to flower buds every other day, and applied it every day from August 15. The flowers bloomed on August 27, and the flowering period was 14 days. With such continuous treatment, the camellia flowers can bloom continuously from September 1 to mid-October. The varieties used were "Xianhong", "Jiuxinhong", "Xia Sefen", etc. The color and diameter of the flowers after treatment were the same as those of normal ones.

In 1981, the Changsha Nursery in Hunan Province pioneered the method of applying leaf scars to promote flowering. In late October, the leaf scars of the buds near the flower buds of gardenias were treated with high concentrations (2500-4000ppm) of gibberellins. Only one drop was needed, and the flowers began to bloom after one month, and the number of petals could be increased. The varieties such as 'Furong Wubao' were the best, and the flowering period was 2-3 months earlier than the control. In summary, plant hormones combined with other comprehensive measures can play a good role in breaking flower bud dormancy (peony, etc.), protecting buds, promoting flowering (Michelia, Camellia, Gardenia), and promoting pedicel elongation (Michelia).

     ㈡ Promote the growth of dwarf plants and improve ornamental value. Retardants and inhibitors mainly include B9, PP333 and CCC, which have the effect of delaying or inhibiting the growth of plants or branches.
    B9 is a multi-purpose growth retardant that can be used as a dwarfing agent, fruit setting agent, rooting agent and preservative. When applied to flowers, it can make the flowers dwarf and sturdy; at the same time, it has the effects of preventing flowers from falling, promoting fruit setting, inducing adventitious root formation, and improving cold resistance. CCC has the effect of inhibiting plant vegetative growth and promoting reproductive growth. Spraying CCC can shorten the internodes of flowers, dwarf the plants, thicken the stems, thicken the leaves, and make the leaves brighter. It also has the effect of enhancing plant drought resistance and cold resistance, so it is often used for dwarfing flowers such as chrysanthemums, dahlias, azaleas, peonies, and potted grapes.

    Applying dwarfing agent and "Bijiu" to treat flowers can effectively dwarf the plants and promote branching and flower bud differentiation. For example, when geraniums are planted, 500t-tg/g of dwarfing agent is mixed into the soil, the height of the plants can be reduced by about 10cm, and they can bloom 1 to 2 weeks earlier. Dahlias, chrysanthemums, etc. are treated with "Bijiu", and the dwarfing effect is very obvious. Dwarfing agent "Bijiu" has a significant dwarfing effect on flowers and trees such as poinsettia, camellia, hydrangea, azalea, pyracantha, five-color plum, lily, celery guest, carnation, aster, coleus, cockscomb, violet, petunia, marigold, and zinnia.

      "Paclobutrazol" also has a significant dwarfing effect on some flower plants. For example, for potted autumn chrysanthemums, in the middle of their growth period (around mid-to-late August), spray them with a 20ug/g "paclobutrazol" solution, once every 10 to 15 days, for a total of two sprays. This can make the plants shorter, the internodes shorter, the leaves greener, and the stems harder. At this time, pinching and appropriate fertilization can increase the flower size, extend the flowering period, and make the flowers more beautiful.

    After processing, chrysanthemums can be dwarfed, branching can be promoted, and the flowers can be concentrated.

    After treatment with azalea, vegetative growth can be slowed down and flower bud formation can be accelerated.

    After geranium treatment, plant height can be reduced by 10 cm and flowering can be advanced by 2 weeks.

    Dahlia treatment can also dwarf the plant and make it bloom earlier.

     ㈢ABT

     ABT is a highly effective, broad-spectrum rooting promoter. Generally, the survival rate of crabapple rootstock grafted cuttings can reach 80-90%.

    "No. 1 rooting powder" is mainly used for jujube, Milan, crabapple, bergamot, podocarpus, cedar, ginkgo, etc.

    "No. 2 rooting powder" is mainly used for roses, camellias, cassia trees, azaleas, chrysanthemums, roses, fuchsias, pomegranates, boxwood, etc.

    "Rooting Powder No. 3" is used to restore the root system of seedlings when transplanting them and improve the survival rate.

    In the cutting propagation of flowers, hormone treatment is often used to promote rooting of cuttings, improve survival rate, accelerate reproduction, and cultivate strong seedlings. In particular, naphthaleneacetic acid, which has stable performance and strong effect, is used more.

    There are two treatment methods: soaking in aqueous solution and applying powder. Soaking in aqueous solution can be divided into low concentration and high concentration. Soaking in low concentration aqueous solution means soaking the cuttings for a long time before cutting. The concentration of all naphthaleneacetic acid is 10-200 mg/L, and the treatment time ranges from 8 hours to 24 hours. Just soak at 1-2 cm from the incision, and there is no need to soak the entire cutting. Young branches are treated with weaker indoleacetic acid, and mature branches are treated with indolebutyric acid or naphthaleneacetic acid. High-concentration rapid dipping treatment can improve work efficiency. The commonly used concentration is 1000-10000 mg/L, and soaking for 2-5 minutes is enough. Powder treatment is to first dissolve the agent in a small amount of 95% alcohol, then evenly sprinkle the dissolved solution in an inert powder such as talcum powder, and then heat it slightly to evaporate the alcohol to form a powder. Usually 1-20 mg of auxin is mixed into 1 gram of talcum powder. When treating, just dip the base of the cuttings soaked in water into the powder, but the treatment concentration is 10 times higher than when soaking in solution.

　　There are many kinds of flowers. When applying them specifically, you can first test with a small amount of hormones. Generally, the concentration of herbaceous flowers should be lower, while that of woody flowers can be higher. The concentration should be lower for long-term soaking treatment, and higher for quick soaking.

Preventing flower and fruit drop

    Spraying "Bijiu" and "Naphthaleneacetic Acid" can prevent flowers and fruits from falling. For example, spraying foliage flowers with a 50/J.g/g "Naphthaleneacetic Acid" solution can prevent flowers from falling. For example, spraying potted kumquats with a 500/_tg/g "Naphthaleneacetic Acid" solution before fruit setting can inhibit flower bud differentiation and prevent fruit from falling.

Chlormequat (CCC)

Controlling tree dwarfing

    In the process of garden tree cultivation, due to the excessive growth of the plant's nutrition, the plant is tall and the branches and leaves are too luxuriant, which affects the flowering and fruiting, reduces the ornamental value, or affects the layout of the flowerbed and landscape. Therefore, in garden production or garden engineering construction, the reasonable application of plant growth retardants and inhibitors such as Bijiu, Qingxiansu, Paclobutrazol, Chlormequat and Plastic can inhibit the growth of stems and branches, dwarf the plant shape, promote branching and flower bud differentiation, and improve the ornamental value.

    When Japanese Ligustrum lucidum sprouts and grows for 10 to 15 days in spring, or after pruning, spray the leaves of the plant with 2500 to 5000 mg/L of Bijiu solution to inhibit the plant's growth, control the growth of lateral branches, and improve the plant shape.

    In spring, from February to March, spraying poplar trees with 4.6-9.2% cyanocbate solution, or spraying ash trees with 1500-3000 mg/L cyanocbate solution, can control the budding and inhibit branch growth.

    When the new shoots of hibiscus grow to 5 to 7 cm, spray the leaves with 1000 mg/L of chlormequat to dwarf the plant, with obvious results.

    When the new leaves of Cycas revoluta grow curvedly, spray them with 1 to 3 mg/L of chlormequat solution once a week for three consecutive times. This will shorten the curved new leaves, make the leaves darker green, and improve their ornamental value.

    When the new branches of the current year's potted crape myrtle grow to 5 cm, spray the leaves with 1000 mg/L of Bijiu solution to dwarf the plant and improve its ornamental value.

    When the potted osmanthus achieves the dwarfing effect, before the new shoots sprout in spring, you can spray the plants with 800 mg/L paclobutrazol solution to promote shortening of internodes, thickening of new leaves, compact plant shape, and improve ornamental value.

    Before moving the potted hibiscus outdoors, apply 500 to 1000 ml of paclobutrazol solution to the potting soil. This can make the branches short and thicker, reduce the crown width, and produce more flowers, achieving a dwarfing effect. Depending on the degree of dwarfing, apply the solution again in mid-June.

    Potted dwarf bamboo can be sprayed with 100-1000 mg/L of chlormequat, paclobutrazol, chlormequat or cyanocbate to maintain a dwarfed plant shape. When the bamboo shoots emerge from the soil and grow to 20 cm in height, one of the above solutions can be injected into the bamboo cavity, 1-2 nodes each time, with 3-5 ml per node. If the inhibitory effect is not obvious, inject again after an interval of 3-5 days. This can significantly inhibit the growth between bamboo nodes, control dwarfing and reduce the height.

    When potted citrus begins to grow in spring, pouring 125-250 mg/L paclobutrazol solution into the pot soil can effectively inhibit the elongation of branches and shoots, increase the proportion of dwarf branches, and increase the fruiting rate of the current year and the differentiation rate of flower buds in the next year.
When potted peaches enter spring growth and new shoots grow to 5-10 cm, spray the leaves with 1000-1500 mg/L Bijiu solution, and spray again after an interval of 10-15 days; or after the potted peaches bloom, use 0.5 g of 40% paclobutrazol wettable powder per pot and add water to the pot soil to prevent the peach plants from growing too tall and improve the ornamental effect.

    In the cultivation of chrysanthemum, poinsettia, cineraria, zinnia, cosmos, snapdragon, marigold, cockscomb, coleus, carnation, etc., 1000~3000~ g of CCC is often used for dwarfing treatment by spraying.

    Watering gladiolus plants with a solution of dwarfing agent can promote lateral flower branches and bloom earlier.

    Chlormequat is an antagonist of gibberellins. The effect of this growth regulator is exactly the opposite of that of gibberellins. It is an antagonist of gibberellins. Its physiological function is to control the vegetative growth of the plant (i.e. the growth of roots, stems and leaves), promote the reproductive growth of the plant (i.e. the growth of flowers and fruits), shorten the internodes of the plant, make the plant short and strong and resistant to lodging, promote the deepening of leaf color, enhance photosynthesis, and improve the plant's fruit set rate, drought resistance, cold resistance and salt-alkali resistance.

　　Specific usage:

　　1. When peppers and potatoes begin to show a tendency to grow too tall, during the bud to flowering period, spray the potato leaves with 1600-2500 mg/L of chlormequat to control ground growth and promote yield increase. Spray the pepper stems and leaves with 20-25 mg/L of chlormequat to control excessive growth and increase fruit set rate.

　　2. Spraying 4000-5000 mg/L of chlormequat solution on the growing points of cabbage (lotus white) and celery can effectively control bolting and flowering.

　　3. Sprinkle 50 mg/L of chlormequat solution on the soil surface during the seedling stage of tomatoes, which can make the tomato plants compact and bloom early. If the tomato is found to be growing too long after transplanting, 500 mg/L of chlormequat diluted solution can be used to water each plant at 100-150 ml. The effect will be shown in 5-7 days, and the effect will disappear after 20-30 days, and it will return to normal.

    4. When the cucumber has 15 leaves, spray the whole plant with 62.5 mg/L of anti-drop agent to promote fruit setting.

    Azalea: To promote flowering, spray 1800-2300ppm of chlormequat on the leaves when new branches grow after pruning 6-7 months before flowering. Short daylight of 8 hours can promote flowering.

    Camellia: To promote the formation of flower buds, watering potted camellia with 0.3% dwarfing agent solution can promote the formation of flower buds.

    Hibiscus: Dwarfing. When the new buds of hibiscus grow to 5-7 cm, spraying the leaves with 0.1% of dwarfing agent can dwarf the plant, and the effect is very obvious.

    Poinsettia: To dwarf the plant, use a 2000-3000ppm chlormequat solution and water it 1-2 weeks after transplanting.

    Tulips: To promote the enlargement of bulbs, use 1000-5000ppm of chlormequat solution and spray the leaves of tulips 10 days after flowering. This can dwarf the plants and promote the enlargement of bulbs.

    Freesia: Dwarfing plants: soaking freesia bulbs with 250ppm chlormequat solution before sowing can significantly reduce plant height and inflorescence length. However, it does not affect the number of flower buds and flowering period of each plant, making freesia suitable for potted plants.

    Gladiolus: To promote flowering, irrigate the soil with 800ppm of chlormequat after planting gladiolus, once every 3 weeks, for a total of 3 times, which can effectively promote flowering. To improve the drought resistance of the bulbs, after the leaves are fully exposed from the bulbs, irrigate the soil with 500ppm of chlormequat aqueous solution, and repeat once after 1 month, which can improve the drought resistance of gladiolus bulbs.

    Geranium: To promote early flowering, treat the soil where geraniums are planted with 0.25% chlormequat solution, which can prompt geraniums to bloom about 7 days earlier.

    Aster: To dwarf the plants, spray the leaves of Aster with 0.15%-0.3% chlormequat to dwarf the plants.

    Clivia: To promote fruiting, when all the flowers on the Clivia inflorescence have been pollinated and the last flower has been pollinated for more than 10 hours, spray 5ppm of chlormequat solution evenly on the inflorescence at one time to promote pollination and fruiting.

    Cycas revoluta: Inhibit leaf growth. The leaves of bonsai cycas revoluta are preferably short and small. Before the leaves reach the rapid growth period, apply 2500ppm chlormequat solution to the petiole, which can significantly inhibit its leaf growth. Improve the ornamental value. When the new leaves of cycas revoluta are bent, spray 1-3ppm chlormequat solution once a week for 3 times in a row, which can shorten the bent new leaves and make the leaves darker green, so that the new leaves are bent at a moderate length, which can improve the ornamental value.

    Begonia: To promote flowering, water the soil with 5000ppm of dwarfing solution. Treatment can promote flowering and reduce sterility.

    Bamboo Begonia: To promote flowering, water the potted bamboo begonia with 250ppm dwarfing agent, about 200 ml per pot. After treatment, it can promote flowering.

    Dog bud root: Dwarfing, spraying 3000ppm of chlormequat solution on the leaves before and after the jointing of the dog dactylon root can significantly inhibit the elongation of the main stem and tiller stems, and the dwarfing effect is obvious, which can replace manual pruning and reduce the cost of lawn management. It can also promote the occurrence of a large number of tillers, shorten the leaves, and widen the leaves, thereby improving the ornamental value of the lawn.

    Cherry tomatoes: To improve the ornamental value, use 0.5ppm of dwarfing agent to water the potting soil before the cherry tomatoes set fruit. For early-maturing varieties with limited growth (such as beaded tomatoes and four-season red tomatoes), the dosage is 100 ml per plant; for mid-maturing varieties with unlimited growth (such as Saint Girl, Cherry Red, Yellow Pear and other tomato varieties), the dosage is 150 ml per plant. One week after application, the internodes become shorter, the main stem is thick, the leaves are dark green, the root system is well-developed, and the fruits are concentrated, which can significantly improve its ornamental value.

    Potted bamboo: Dwarfing, treat potted bamboo with 100-1000ppm chlormequat solution. When the bamboo shoots are about 20cm high, inject the solution into the bamboo cavity, 1-2 sections each time, 3-5 drops per section, and inject again every 1-2 days depending on the growth situation. After treatment, the height of the bamboo can often be reduced to about 1/5 of that of the untreated bamboo.

Precautions for using chlormequat

    1. When using chlormequat, the water and fertilizer conditions should be good, and the effect is best when the group has a tendency to grow too long. If the soil conditions are poor and the growth is not strong, do not use chlormequat. For the first use, a small area test should be conducted. This product decomposes when exposed to alkali and cannot be mixed with alkaline pesticides or alkaline fertilizers. When using this product, personal protective equipment should be worn and cleaned in time after use.

    It is a mixture of multiple homologues, and their biological activities on plants vary greatly. Among them, gibberellic acid A3, A4, A7, and A14 have stronger activities, and gibberellic acid A3 is particularly prominent. Gibberellic acid A3 is a white or slightly yellow crystal, which is insoluble in benzene, chloroform and petroleum ether. The most obvious biological activity of gibberellic acid is to stimulate plant cell elongation, which makes plants grow taller and leaves larger; it can break the dormancy of seeds, tubers, and tuberous roots and promote their germination; it can stimulate fruit growth, increase the fruit setting rate or form seedless fruits; it can replace low temperature and promote early flower bud differentiation of some plants that need low temperature to pass the growth stage; it can also replace the effect of long daylight, so that some plants can flower and bloom under short daylight, and it can induce the formation of α-amylase and accelerate the hydrolysis of storage substances in endosperm cells.

    It has a significant yield-increasing effect on rice, cotton, vegetables, fruits, green manure, etc., and has a yield-increasing effect on wheat, rapeseed and other economic crops. When used, it can be directly diluted with water, has a good adhesion effect, and is particularly effective for seed soaking.

    The most prominent physiological effect of gibberellins is to promote stem elongation and induce long-day plants to bolt and flower under short-day conditions. Different plants have different sensitivities to gibberellins. Gibberellins play a regulatory role in seed germination. Gibberellins can replace red light to promote the germination of lettuce seeds, a light-sensitive plant, and replace the vernalization required for carrot flowering. Gibberellins can also cause the formation of unisexual fruits in some plants. For some plants, especially seedless grape varieties, treatment with gibberellins during flowering can promote the development of seedless fruits. However, it sometimes has an inhibitory effect on certain physiological phenomena.

    1. Promote fruit setting or seedless fruit formation. Spray cucumber flowers with 50-100mg/kg solution once during flowering to promote fruit setting and increase yield. 7-10 days after flowering, spray grape bunches with 200-500mg/kg solution once to promote seedless fruit formation.

　　2. To promote vegetative growth, spray the leaves of celery with 50-100mg/kg solution once 2 weeks before harvesting; spray the leaves of spinach 1-2 times 3 weeks before harvesting to enlarge the stems and leaves. 

　　3. To break dormancy and promote germination, soak the tubers of potatoes in 0.5-1mg/kg solution for 30 minutes before sowing; soak the seeds of barley in 1mg/kg solution before sowing, both of which can promote germination.

　　4. For delaying aging and preserving effect, soak the base of garlic shoots with 50mg/kg solution for 10-30min, spray the citrus fruits once during the green fruit stage with 5-15mg/kg solution, soak the bananas with 10mg/kg solution after harvesting, and spray the cucumbers and watermelons with 10-50mg/kg solution before harvesting, all of which can play a role in preserving freshness.

　　5. To regulate flowering, spray the leaves of chrysanthemums with 1000mg/kg solution during the vernalization stage, and spray the buds of cyclamen with 1-5mg/kg solution during the bud stage to promote flowering.

　　6. To improve the fruiting rate of hybrid rice seed production, generally start spraying 1-3 times with 25-55mg/kg liquid when 15% of the female parent is heading and end when 25% is heading. Use low concentration first and then high concentration. 

    For one- or two-year-old maple, oak, birch and camphor trees, spraying plants with 200-400 mg/L gibberellin solution can promote the growth of young trees and significantly increase their height.
 
    During the elongation period of Indian azalea stems, spraying the leaves with 100-200 mg/L gibberellin solution several times can significantly promote growth; during the formation of azalea buds, applying 2.7% gibberellin lanolin to the buds can greatly advance flowering, or spraying the plants with 1000 mg/L gibberellin solution once a week for about 5 times can effectively extend the flowering period by more than one month, increase the flower shape, and make the flower color bright; spraying 100 mg/L gibberellin solution 3 times in winter can advance flowering and extend the flowering period.

    Before planting roses, dip the roots in 100-300 mg/L gibberellin solution for 5 seconds to reduce the germination rate and promote plant growth. After roses and roses sprout, spray the young shoots once with 10-100 mg/L gibberellin solution, which can significantly promote the growth of branches and buds.

    After the primrose inflorescence emerges, spray the inflorescence once with 50 mg/L gibberellin solution, and then spray it again after 5 to 7 days. This can increase plant height and promote flowering.

    During the growth and fruiting period of bergamot, spraying the plants with a mixture of 0.3 mg/L paclobutrazol + 5 mg/L cytokinin can increase the absorption and utilization rate of soil nutrients by the roots, and the plants will grow faster and produce larger bergamot fruits.

1. Artificial control of flowering period

  　(I) Peony Peonies that bloom in spring from April to May are the most outstanding in blooming half a year earlier. You should choose varieties that are easy to promote flowering, such as 'Zhaofen', pick the buds in March, apply additional fertilizer from April to August, and promote leaf fall by taking short-day and ice cooling measures from July to August. In July, plant them in pots or under a shade shed. From late August to early September, apply 200-1000ppm gibberellin to the flower buds once a day, so that they can bloom in late September and early October. For those that want to bloom before National Day, you can give them a temperature treatment of 5-10℃ to appropriately delay flowering. It is best to treat them with 500-1000ppm gibberellin every day, which can relieve the dormancy of flower buds and promote early germination after 4-7 days.

    (II) Michelia was originally an evergreen shrub that blooms fragrant flowers in April and May. Now we select Michelia that has been potted for many years but has no flowers in the same year and place it under a shade shed in summer. Fertilize weekly, flower buds in late July, remove young leaves in early August, and then apply 100ppm gibberellin to the flower buds once a week, and then gradually increase the concentration to 200-500ppm. Peel off the bud shell in mid-September, and it will bloom in about 3 days. The flowering period is 3 days, and the flower diameter is 4 cm. Because the pedicel is elongated, the fragrance is also strong, which is quite eye-catching. Gibberellin promotes the early flowering of Michelia, and its main function is to promote the growth of flower buds and the blooming of flowers. It takes about one month from applying gibberellin to flowering. 　　

    (III) Camellia The flowering period of camellia varies depending on the variety and region, usually from November to March of the following year. In 1959, the Shanghai Municipal Gardening Department used early-flowering varieties such as 'Xiao Taohong' in pots, added fertilizer, and removed leaf buds at any time in late June. From August 21, 100 ppm of gibberellin was dripped on the flower buds every 3 days, and water was sprayed once in the morning and afternoon. On September 4, it was moved into the greenhouse and sprayed 4 times a day. On September 10, the potted camellia was moved out of the greenhouse and placed in a semi-shaded place. Flowering in late September

    (IV) Gardenia is an evergreen shrub that blooms large white fragrant flowers from June to August. From 1958 to 1959, the Shanghai Municipal Gardening Department adopted measures such as root cutting, heavy fertilizer application, and careful maintenance, and achieved initial success in flowering in late September. Starting from August 12, 1977, Shanghai Botanical Garden added gibberellin 100ppm to the flower buds twice a week, achieving the purpose of bud preservation, growth promotion, and flowering promotion, and the effect was further improved.

    Apply 500-1000 g of gibberellin solution on the dormant buds of peony and herbaceous peony, and they will germinate after a few days.

    After the fuchsia cuttings have taken root, spraying the plants with gibberellins can accelerate the growth of the flowers.

    For flowers with stalks, such as cyclamen, daffodils, and Clivia, applying 100-500 g of gibberellin on the stalks can promote the extension of the pedicels.

　　Precautions

　　1. Gibberellic acid has low water solubility. Dissolve it with a small amount of alcohol or liquor before use, and then add water to dilute it to the required concentration. 

　　2. The number of infertile seeds in crops treated with gibberellic acid increases, so it is not advisable to apply pesticides to fields reserved for seeds.

　　If the rice seedlings grow too vigorously, the fields should be dried earlier to reduce the field moisture content to about 70% of the soil saturation moisture content, causing the leaf color to become lighter. After a period of dryness and wetness, the leaves will move into the shallow water layer to adapt to the physiological and ecological requirements of rice for water during the heading period.

    If gibberellins are used excessively, the side effect may cause lodging, so it is necessary to use growth enhancers to regulate and increase the application of potassium fertilizer.　

    Plant growth regulators have dual properties. If used improperly, they often have the opposite effect and even cause significant losses. Therefore, when using them in flower cultivation, experiments should be conducted first. The type of regulator, dosage, concentration, time of use, application site, and environmental conditions during use should be strictly controlled. Only by finding the best solution through experiments can the best effect be achieved.

    Since the family garden and balcony flower planting is for self-entertainment and non-professional, it is impossible to equip a variety of hormones. I only equipped four hormones: gibberellin (GA) (i.e. gibberellic acid), chlormequat (ccc), rooting powder (ABT) and naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA). This can meet the needs of common flowers.

     Glass begonia, also known as glass begonia, is named because its flowers, leaves and stems are fleshy and resemble glass. It usually has green branches and leaves, and its flowers are gorgeous and rich, just like a beautiful woman in full makeup. If cultivated properly, it can bloom all year round and is a good small indoor potted ornamental flower. It likes warmth and avoids cold. Overwintering is one of the keys to its cultivation. Glass begonia likes semi-shade and is mostly maintained indoors. In summer and autumn, it should be placed in a cool place and not exposed to the sun. Because the sunlight is too strong, the leaves turn yellow and are very easy to wither. In spring and autumn, it should be placed in a sunny place, and the indoor temperature should be maintained above 13℃ in winter, so that the branches and leaves can be green and bloom frequently.

    It likes semi-humidity and is afraid of drought. If it is too wet, the roots will rot easily, but it will die if it is dry for several days. Glass Jade is not very demanding on soil and fertilizer, as long as the soil is well-drained. Before planting, some organic fertilizer can be mixed into the pot soil as base fertilizer. Usually, sesame paste water or bean cake water is applied once a month, and bean cake water is applied once a week during the flowering period. The flowers of Glass Jade bloom from bottom to top, so the flower heads should be cut off in time after flowering to promote the growth of new branches and continue to bloom. Two or three-year-old plants bloom vigorously with good flower quality and color, and enter the aging period after three or four years.

     Propagation can be done by sowing, cuttings, division, etc. Sowing is usually done in early spring or early autumn. The seeds are as small as powder. Use a shallow pot filled with loose and fertile loam. After watering, evenly spread the seeds on the soil surface. There is no need to cover the soil. Cover the pot with glass and keep the temperature at around 20℃. Seedlings will emerge in about 10 days. When there are three or four true leaves, transplant them into a small pot. When the seedlings are 8 to 10 cm tall, plant them in a 12 cm pot and top them to promote branching. They will bloom in three or four months. Cuttings are best done in May and June. You can cut off the thick branches at the base, insert them into sandy soil every 10 cm. Spray water frequently, and roots will take root in about 50 days. After rooting, you can transplant them into pots. When propagating by division, cut the roots of the plant into pieces, apply plant ash on the cut to prevent rot, and plant them in separate pots. Similar plants to the glass jade include Sudanese Impatiens, which has purple halos on its stems and leaves and vermilion flowers. Its cultivation and propagation methods are the same as those of the glass jade. The culture soil can be a mixture of leaf mold, garden soil and coarse sand in a ratio of 1:1:1, and a small amount of bean cake can be applied as base fertilizer.

    Fertilization: Apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 7-10 days during the growing period; apply once every 15-20 days after flowering.

    Watering: Glass Jade likes moisture and is afraid of dry climate. In addition to proper watering during the growth period, the air humidity should be maintained at a high level. For this purpose, you can often spray the leaves with clean water, especially in summer, spray the branches and leaves with water every morning and evening, and sprinkle water around the flowerpot to increase the air humidity and reduce the temperature. During the entire growth process, once the air is too dry, the leaves will lose their luster and become unstretched, and in severe cases, the petioles will also curl.

    Temperature and light: In summer, shade should be provided to avoid direct sunlight. If the shade is too much or the fertilizer and water are too much, the stems and leaves will grow too long and fall over. Move it indoors in winter and place it in a sunny place on the windowsill for maintenance. Keep the room temperature at 13-16℃ and the pot soil slightly moist. Spray the branches and leaves with warm water close to the room temperature once every 5-7 days. When the air is dry, spray it with water frequently to increase the air humidity. Only in this way can the leaves of the glass jade be kept green and tender and the flowers be bright.

    During the entire growth and development process of glass jade, it is best to rotate the flowerpot once every 7 days or so to ensure that all parts of the plant receive even light and have a beautiful shape.

     Glass Jade is not very demanding on soil and fertilizer, as long as the soil is well-drained. Before planting, some organic fertilizer can be mixed into the pot soil as base fertilizer. Usually, sesame paste water or bean cake water is applied once a month, and bean cake water is applied once a week during the flowering period. Topdressing is applied every 10 days during the growth period; it is appropriate to use decomposed cake fertilizer water, and the fertilizer liquid concentration is 0.2%; apply once 15 days after flowering. When fertilizer and water are insufficient, the stems and leaves are thin and yellow, which affects flowering; excessive fertilizer and water or excessive shade will cause the stems and leaves of the plant to grow too long and easily fall over. Fertilization should be stopped in time, and the top of the branches should be removed to promote lower branching.

    Banyan bonsai refers to a bonsai tree with a unique artistic shape, which is made of banyan trees and is cultivated through pruning, pruning, hanging, grafting, and careful cultivation. Its growth and development are controlled for a long time. Banyan bonsai has almost all the advantages of bonsai, and in turn, it is unique for its long tree age, strange fibrous roots, fast growth, and strong plasticity. There are many types of banyan trees, mainly aerial root shape, tuberous root shape, block shape, strange root shape, and old tree stump (purely natural), etc. There are both natural wild and artificial cultivation. Due to the beautiful shape of the banyan tree, it can be used as a garden ornamental tree, a street tree, a shade tree in the village, and a group of trees. It is also a superior material for bonsai, and can be made into large, medium, small, and miniature bonsai.

    There are three sources of tree bonsai materials: wild piles, cuttings, and seedlings. This article mainly talks about wild pile cultivation. The collection time of wild piles is between February and October every year, and April to July is the most suitable. During this period, the climate is mild, the air is humid, the tree stumps take root and sprout quickly, and the survival rate is high. The location for collecting wild piles should be selected at the foot of the mountain, the edge of the village, the corner of the land, etc. The banyan bonsai in these places are often trampled by livestock and cut down by humans. The trunks are tortuous and the trunks are ancient and strange, which makes it easier to find piles suitable for bonsai. Generally speaking, as long as the piles that end naturally, after one or two years of careful cultivation, produce aerial roots, and make up for the shortcomings, they will also grow into unexpectedly good piles. When collecting piles, be careful with old piles, do not hurt the roots too much, and try to get fine roots to increase the insurance coefficient of survival. There are not too many concerns about tender piles, and they can survive even if they are cut in the middle. The longer the young stump grows, the better it is. It has great plasticity and even ordinary-looking stumps can be cultivated into excellent bonsai.

    Banyan bonsai cultivation requires suitable sunlight, air moisture, nutrients and temperature to achieve good growth and development. To grow a good banyan bonsai, the first choice is to prepare the culture soil. There are many types of bonsai soil. We use homemade culture soil, which is a mixture of organic materials such as coal slag, edamame scraps, and banyan leaves. It has good drainage, strong air permeability, and strong water and fertilizer retention capabilities as the banyan culture soil.

    How should we plant and maintain the old banyan tree stumps that have just been dug up from the mountain or purchased in the market so that they will not die? Now I will introduce my many years of planting experience as follows: Generally, the old banyan tree stumps that have been dug up from the mountain are more than several decades old. When they are dug up, the roots of the trees will be damaged to varying degrees, so they must be treated immediately. Before planting, according to the requirements of the shape, you can make a small cut, and then soak it in water for 2 to 3 days. If you can add some indolebutyric acid solution, the effect will be better. For the first planting, you should water it enough, lightly press the root soil, and apply wax or white glue on the wounds on the tree body or the cut branches. The water of the newly planted tree evaporates quickly, and the stump is easy to die. So use a fine-pore watering can to gently sprinkle the tree body in the morning and evening. Keep the tree body moist as much as possible. If the sunlight is too strong, use some sundries to block it appropriately. If conditions permit, you can put the pot in a semi-shaded place for maintenance until the new buds are 20 to 30 cm square. Generally, for potted trees, the drainage outlet at the bottom of the pot should not be too small. If it is too small, the water will not be drained smoothly or the air will not be ventilated smoothly, and the roots of the new tree will die. When watering, you should do the following: water when it is dry and wet, water thoroughly, and do not water halfway. When newly planted tree stumps sprout, the buds are often very messy, but it is not advisable to blindly cut the branches. Let it sprout first. Some old stumps will slowly die if too many messy branches are cut after they sprout 20 to 30 cm. It is best not to cut the newly planted old stumps in the first year. If you want to cut, you have to do it in March or April after planting. Cut off a small amount of messy branches each time, and cut them several times. Once you cut too much, it will affect the growth of the roots and the entire stump. Generally, old stumps should be cultivated for 3 to 4 years before they should be cut more heavily, and they can be cut once or twice a year. The best time to prune old banyan tree stumps is from February to March, or from July to August. For tree stumps, especially those in pots, it is best to cut off all the leaves from September to October. This is because the branches and leaves require a lot of water during this period, and the old stumps themselves do not have enough water supply. Banyan tree stumps should not be repotted or transplanted frequently, as frequent repotting or transplanting will affect their growth. Although banyan trees can be planted, repotted, and transplanted all year round, the best time to repot or cultivate banyan trees is from April to May each year. For new banyan tree stumps that have been brought down from the mountain, it is best to plant them underground for 3 to 4 years before potting them. Some banyan tree stumps do not sprout where branches should grow. Therefore, it is not easy to succeed in grafting banyan trees. Grafting has the highest success rate.

03. List of green plants for green homes and healthy homes

    Plants that can absorb toxic chemicals: Aloe, Chlorophytum, Tiger Tail, Aspidistra, Monstera are natural scavengers that can remove harmful substances from the air. Studies have shown that Tiger Tail and Chlorophytum can absorb more than 80% of harmful gases in the room, and have a strong ability to absorb formaldehyde. Aloe is also a good absorber of formaldehyde, and can absorb 90% of the formaldehyde contained in 1 cubic meter of air.

    Plants that can absorb toxic chemicals: ivy, iron tree, chrysanthemum, kumquat, pomegranate, half-flower, rose, camellia, pomegranate, Milan, daisy, wintersweet, marigold, etc. can effectively remove harmful substances such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, ether, ethylene, carbon monoxide, and nitrogen peroxide.

    Plants that can remove dust: orchids, osmanthus, wintersweets, variegated taro, and red-backed osmanthus are natural dust collectors. Their cilia can intercept and absorb floating particles and smoke in the air.

    Plants that can remove dust Plants that can repel mosquitoes: Mosquito repellent herb emits a fresh and elegant lemon scent, which has a good mosquito repellent effect indoors, but has no toxic side effects on the human body. The higher the temperature, the more fragrance it emits, and the better the mosquito repellent effect. According to tests, a pot of mosquito repellent herb with a crown width of more than 30 cm can repel mosquitoes in a room with an area of ​​more than 10 square meters. In addition, a plant called pyrethrum contains pyrethrin, which can also effectively repel mosquitoes.

    Plants that can kill bacteria: The volatile oils produced by aromatic flowers such as roses, osmanthus, violets, jasmine, lemons, roses, carnations, lily of the valley, and crape myrtle have significant bactericidal effects.

    Plants such as crape myrtle, jasmine, and lemon can kill protozoa such as diphtheria and dysentery within 5 minutes. The fragrance emitted by plants such as rose, dianthus, lily of the valley, violet, rose, and osmanthus has a significant inhibitory effect on the growth and reproduction of tuberculosis bacteria, pneumococcus, and staphylococcus.

    Plant climbing plants such as ivy, grapes, morning glory, wisteria, roses, etc. around your home and let them climb along the walls or frames to form a green pergola, which can effectively reduce sunlight radiation and greatly lower the indoor temperature.

    Plants that can release oxygen: Succulent plants such as cacti are native to tropical arid areas. The stomata on their fleshy stems are closed during the day and open at night. While absorbing carbon dioxide, they produce oxygen, increasing the concentration of negative ions in the indoor air.

    Plants that can purify the air: Plants such as snake plants, tiger tail plants, agave, brown-hair palm, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Bridal Veins, and cultivated pineapples can also purify the air at night.

    Plants that can make people relax: Plants such as lilac, jasmine, rose, violet, mint, etc. can make people relax, make them happy, promote sleep, and improve work efficiency.