Flower Planting Manual (Winter)

Flower Planting Manual (Winter)

Flower Cultivation Handbook (October Edition)

Flowers suitable for display in the garden

In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the average monthly temperature ranging from 10℃ to 19℃. Many types of potted ornamental plants are suitable for display in courtyards this month, including woody ornamental plants such as: Norfolk Island pine, Japanese white pine, white pine, Japanese fir, spruce, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Cycas revoluta, Canary Island date palm, Dracaena sanderiana, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Rubber tree, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus microcarpa, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Rhapis excelsa, Bottle palm, Mahonia fortunei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica variegated, Ficus microcarpa 'Thick Leaf', Caryota mongolica, Areca palm, King palm, Cordyline fruticosa, Pterocarpus macrocarpa 'Beautiful Needle Palm', Ficus lyrata, Desert rose, Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa 'Fukui', Bambusa textilis, Maple, Birch spp., Aglaonema, Magnolia denudata, Ficus microcarpa 'Desmodium', Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna lilies, Dahlias, Asters, Chrysanthemums, Small Chrysanthemums, Begonia maculata, Michelia champaca, Marigold, Magnolia officinalis, Anthurium indicum, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Vinca minor, Globe amaranth, Petunia, and Impatiens guinea. Note: In North China and Northeast China, when temperatures drop below 10℃, special attention should be paid to protecting southern-flowering varieties from the cold.

Propagation of garden flowers

1. Sowing. Suitable woody flowering plants for sowing include: peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia figo, magnolia, magnolia, horse chestnut, summer sweet plum, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, bitter tea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Ilex cornuta, Elaeocarpus decipiens, beautiful needle palm, Taxus chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora, Hedyotis diffusa, palm, and pond cypress. When sowing horse chestnut, the seed hilum should face downwards. Summer sweet plum seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours before sowing. Except for summer sweet plum and Hedyotis diffusa seeds, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, the seeds of other species can be cleaned and stored in moist sand to germinate until the seeds crack open and show white tips before sowing the following spring. Note that the seeds must be thoroughly rinsed before storage and germination. The sand should be moist enough to clump together when squeezed but crumble easily when released. The seed-to-sand ratio should be approximately 1:3. Seeds should be checked frequently during storage and germination to prevent them from drying out or rotting. Suitable flowering plants for sowing include: hollyhock, mallow, poppy, calendula, snapdragon, carnations, pansy, Virginia creeper, iris, dwarf snowdrop, tall snowdrop, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, and verbena. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, primrose, gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

2. Propagation by Cuttings. Woody flowering plants that can be propagated by cuttings include: Red-backed Osmanthus, Schefflera arboricola, Night-blooming Jasmine, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia japonica, Buddha's Hand citron, Bleeding Heart Vine, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum lucidum 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Four Seasons', Gardenia jasminoides, Hydrangea macrophylla 'Hydrangea', Spiraea japonica 'Red', Spiraea japonica 'Symplocos 'Atropurpurea', Hypericum vulgare, Prunus cerasifera 'Red', Rose, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Oleander, Fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow soil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using a fully sealed, moisture-retaining method. Additionally, for some southern flowering plants, special attention should be paid to frost protection when the first frost arrives. Flowering plants that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Globe amaranth, Marigold, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Golden pothos, Pilea peperomioides, Coral flower, Golden bract flower, Shrimp flower, Justicia prostrata, Chrysanthemum indicum, etc. (This section is incomplete!!)

3. Grafting. Using 1-2 year old Japanese black pine seedlings as rootstock, graft Japanese white pine (including Osaka pine) and Japanese white pine with bagging and moisture retention; using peony root as rootstock, graft superior varieties of peony; using one-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple, feather maple, etc. with bagging and moisture retention; using one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud graft superior varieties of white magnolia, two-flowered magnolia, red magnolia, etc.; using three-angled arrowroot as rootstock, graft various cacti; using one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud graft kumquat.

4. Layering. Plant species suitable for low-layer propagation include: camellia, plum blossom, hydrangea, hornwort, weigela, flowering quince, osmanthus, snowball viburnum, viburnum, purple magnolia, gardenia, St. John's wort, French holly, winter jasmine, forsythia, Michelia figo, spirea, and red spirea.

5. Division. Woody flowering plants suitable for division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia japonica, Mahonia fortunei, peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Kerria japonica, Misty Plant, Spiraea japonica, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flowering plants suitable for division include: peony, Hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticum, Rudbeckia rutabaga, iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Lily of the valley, Aglaonema 'Guangdong', Oxalis corniculata, Oxalis triangularis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra, etc. Flowering plants suitable for bulb division include: Calla lily, Amaryllis, Freesia, Lycoris radiata, Tulip, Mediterranean Bluebell, etc.

Management of garden flowers

1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, transplanting can be done after the first frost, depending on local climate conditions, such as hibiscus, redbud, elm-leaf plum, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, peach blossom, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, and golden privet. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as broad-leaved magnolia, nandina, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, golden-edged cypress, osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaved boxwood, boxwood, and privet, when transplanting, firstly, prune before transplanting; secondly, keep the root ball intact; and thirdly, strengthen watering and spraying management after transplanting. Suitable garden flowering plants for planting include: carnations, daisies, hollyhocks, ornamental kale, pansies, calendula, verbena, phlox, snapdragons, zephyranthes, liriope, and clover. Bulbous flowers that can be planted in the ground include: daffodils, red-lipped daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths.

2. Pruning. Perform the final pruning of the year on hedges and shrubs in the courtyard, ensuring meticulous and precise trimming to achieve a flat surface, straight lines, and rounded spheres. Suitable hedge and shrub species for pruning include: variegated privet, red-leaved barberry, red-flowered loropetalum, variegated cypress, variegated boxwood, large-leaved boxwood, quince, French holly, privet, photinia, and small-leaved privet. Shrubs requiring pruning include: Chinese juniper, boxwood, bayberry, holly, holly, photinia, pittosporum, and firethorn. For continuously flowering ground-planted shrubs in the courtyard, such as roses, crape myrtle, lantana, and bougainvillea, continue to prune away spent flowers and stems, and appropriately shorten branches that have finished flowering. For ground-planted herbaceous plants in the courtyard, such as salvia, marigolds, and globe amaranth, promptly prune open inflorescences to encourage lateral shoots to continue flowering and prolong the viewing period.

3. Watering. Continue to water and mist newly planted garden plants. First, keep the soil around the roots moist, but avoid waterlogging; second, continue to mist the leaves. Additionally, mist newly planted flowering plants to maintain humidity.

4. Fertilization. For autumn flowering plants planted in the courtyard, apply a balanced, fast-acting fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For osmanthus species that have already flowered, apply base fertilizer by digging a circular trench. For pruned roses, crabapples, crape myrtles, hibiscus mutabilis, camellias, Michelia figo, plum blossoms, and wintersweet, apply an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer. For nandina, firethorn, and southern varieties such as Buddha's hand, kumquat, bitter orange, and golden bullet tree that are currently bearing fruit, apply a small amount of fast-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to effectively prolong the fruiting period.

5. Pest and Disease Control. Continue to use poisoned sticks to control trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and crabapple trees. Fallen branches and leaves in the courtyard should be promptly swept up and burned. In northern regions, large tree trunks in the courtyard can be whitewashed at the end of the month, or lime sulfur can be applied directly to the trunk.

[page] 6. Seed Collection. Woody plant species suitable for seed collection include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus hippocastanum, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia huangshanensis, Magnolia huangshanensis, Magnolia yunnanensis, Michelia champaca, Michelia alba, Magnolia macrantha, Michelia champaca, Taxus wallichiana, Rhapis excelsa, Aralia elata, Palm palm, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc. All these seeds must be stored in moist sand. Seeds suitable for dry storage include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron tulipifera, Acer palmatum, Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ziziphus jujuba, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia javanica, Acer pentaphyllum, etc. The following flowers can be planted: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Dwarf chrysanthemum, Marigold, Tagetes patula, Asters, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Strawberry, Cosmos bipinnatus, Alpine snow clover, Spathiphyllum, Mimosa pudica, and Dancing grass.

In addition, for plants such as canna lilies and dahlias, dig up the underground rhizomes when the above-ground parts are nearly withered at the end of October, store them in sand indoors, and keep the room temperature at no less than 5°C, so that they can be cut and replanted the following spring.

Management of potted flowers in the courtyard

1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, temperatures in most areas south of the Huai River are still above 17℃, and the air is quite dry. Watering potted plants requires careful attention. For moisture-loving foliage plants such as rubber trees, aspidistra, monstera, pothos, syngonium, Michelia champaca, Cinnamomum camphora, Michelia alba, and Ruby 'Ruby', water once a day on sunny days, supplemented with foliar spraying. For summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after autumn, including semi-dormant varieties such as calla lilies, cyclamen, clivia, portulaca, daphne, geraniums, and fuchsias, increase watering. For winter-flowering and early spring-flowering plants such as wintersweet, plum blossoms, and camellias, control watering and spray more frequently to promote bud enlargement. In northern regions, reduce watering for cold-sensitive plants to accelerate the lignification of new shoots, helping them survive the winter. The best time to water is at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

2. Fertilization. For summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after the autumn coolness, apply low-concentration, fast-acting liquid fertilizer promptly. For camellias, plum blossoms, wintersweet, cineraria, primroses, clivia, cyclamen, cymbidium, Belgian azaleas, and red-lipped daffodils that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea. For most foliage plants, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer after mid-October and apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the plant's cold resistance. For fruit-bearing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, nandina, winter coral, aralia, and golden bullet, apply a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early to mid-October.

3. Shading. For some foliage plants that prefer shade, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Maranta, Syngonium podophyllum, Emerald Green, Boston Fern, and Peperomia, shading is still necessary for 2 to 3 hours before and after noon.

4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted plants that must be moved indoors during the winter, in mid-to-late October, withered branches, diseased branches, insect-infested branches, and weak branches should be pruned first. For overgrown branches, strong pruning should be carried out. For bindings that have been used for shaping for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or they can be untied and then re-tied to prevent them from being tied in a fixed position for a long time, which can damage the cambium layer of the branches and cause the branches and leaves to wither and die.

5. Cold Protection. In northern regions, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10℃ should be moved indoors into greenhouses in mid-to-late October. For more cold-hardy woody potted flowers or bonsai trees, they can be planted in sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, it is crucial to accurately monitor weather changes and avoid the threat of southward-moving cold waves.

6. Pest and disease control. Prune dead branches and fallen leaves from potted plants and collect them for burning. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum borers, leaf miner larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for display on balconies

In early to mid-October, balconies remain sunny and dry. Only potted plants that have been kept on balconies for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment. These include: black pine, Chinese pine, elm, Chinese privet, trident maple, water willow, Chinese privet, Fujian tea, podocarpus, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, boxwood, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaved fig, ginkgo, rose, jasmine, milan, cycad, firethorn, lantana, tamarisk, and red maple. Some southern plants that are not cold-hardy should not be kept on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10℃. Plants that prefer cooler environments can be moved indoors at the beginning of the month. Examples include cymbidium, anthurium, nerve plant, cattleya, phalaenopsis, and oncidium. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and left on the balcony at other times. Examples include bamboo palm, dracaena, money tree, pothos, cast iron orchid, areca palm, fishtail palm, king palm, spotted clover, and schefflera. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10℃, most flowering plants should no longer be placed on the balcony. For balcony plant propagation, in early October, large, wide-mouthed flowerpots can be used as cutting containers on the balcony, filled with a 1/2 mixture of rice husk ash and moist sand. Alternatively, vermiculite can be used alone as the cutting substrate. Cover with plastic film to retain moisture. Propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as gardenia, schefflera, rubber tree, aucubin, Michelia figo, jasmine, pearl orchid, Chinese evergreen, coral flower, golden spathe, shrimp flower, hibiscus, Buddha's hand, silver queen shimmering grass, golden pothos, and geranium.

Balcony flower management

1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on balconies, such as cycads, banyan trees, rubber trees, schefflera, dracaena, money trees, milan, magnolia, and jasmine, water once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying. For varieties that have formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossoms, camellias, sasanqua, and Belgian azaleas, watering should not be excessive, and spraying the branches and leaves can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as monstera, philodendron, angel's foot, cast iron orchid, cordyceps, bird's nest fern, anthurium, money tree, calathea, and pothos, spraying water should be the primary method, with watering as a supplement, keeping the potting soil moist but not waterlogged.

2. Fertilization. For potted plants that have resumed growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, Cyclamen, Calla Lily, as well as Cymbidium, Bromeliad, and Cymbidium goeringii, a mixture of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied. For plants that are mainly grown for their fruit, such as Citrus aurantium, Kumquat, Citrus aurantium, Lemon, Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, and Coral ferns, a small amount of low-concentration, fast-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied. For plants such as Aglaia odorata, Magnolia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, and Jasmine, a diluted phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied 1 to 2 times in early October to help them overwinter successfully.

3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for bonsai and potted plants placed on balconies receiving full sunlight, to reduce watering, protect the nutrient roots distributed on the surface of the soil, and prevent soil compaction, continue to cover the soil surface with damp grass, moss, or damp cloth, especially for shallow-potted bonsai. For some shade-loving foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon on sunny days. Shade nets erected in summer can be removed after mid-October.

4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, bonsai trees placed on balconies, such as Chinese elm, Chinese privet, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, cypress (stump), podocarpus, juniper, dragon juniper, privet, and Chinese privet, require necessary pruning and shaping. For metal or non-metal wires that have been bound for over a year, they can be untied first. If the desired shape is not yet achieved, the binding point can be changed and re-tied to avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. Common potted flowers and trees, such as roses, wintersweet, plum blossoms, flowering quince, and weeping crabapple, can also be appropriately pruned.

5. Pest and Disease Control. In late October, collect and burn all dead branches and fallen leaves from potted plants on the balcony. For bonsai trees with partially exposed xylem, apply lime sulfur mixture to the trunk to protect the xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

(Flower Planting Handbook, November Edition)

November's weather characteristics: This month marks the transition from autumn to winter. November 7th is the Beginning of Winter, signifying the start of winter in my country, with the Yellow River's middle and lower reaches soon to freeze. November 22nd is Minor Snow, marking the start of snowfall in the Yellow River basin and areas north of it, while the Yangtze River basin also enters winter. This month's flower and tree maintenance should focus on two aspects: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted trees, whitewashing trunks, pest control, tilling the soil, and applying base fertilizer; second, ensuring proper frost protection for potted plants and flowers in greenhouses and polytunnels. The main flower management tasks for this month include the following:

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing. Flower varieties that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: golden lotus, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, gerbera, clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

The following flower and tree species can be harvested and sown immediately in November: Hydrangea macrophylla, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora, Cypress arborvitae, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, Palm, Ilex cornuta, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia serratifolia, etc.

2. Cuttings. Cuttings can be taken outdoors in November, but they must be covered with mulch to keep them warm and protect them from the cold. The main types of flowers and trees that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-leaf plum, plum (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), rose (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and Elizabeth), and flowering quince.

The following flowering plants can be propagated by root cuttings in November: Red-leaf Plum, Weeping Crabapple, Flowering Quince, Holly, Holly, Trumpet Vine, Chinese Elm, and Serissa japonica. Some of these root cuttings can be used to make small or miniature bonsai.

In November, the following flowering trees can be propagated by dense planting and cuttings in greenhouses or polytunnels: Buxus microphylla, Buxus chinensis, Buxus macrophylla, Buxus spp., Michelia champaca, Ligustrum lucidum 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum vulgare, Hypericum perforatum, Mahonia japonica, and Serissa japonica 'Aureum'. With proper care, they will develop strong root systems by the following spring and can be used for ground planting to cultivate spherical shapes for landscaping. In winter, cuttings can also be propagated in greenhouses for Begonia maculata, Begonia simonii, Begonia davidii, Geranium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia japonica, Jade Plant, Portulaca grandiflora, Osmanthus fragrans 'Red-backed', Clerodendrum trichotomum, and Clerodendrum trichotomum, which can then be potted after the spring.

In November, cuttings of hibiscus, trumpet creeper, and grapes can be taken from the Yangtze River basin and stored for propagation the following spring. This will significantly accelerate rooting and increase the survival rate of the cuttings.

3. Grafting. Using seedlings of Chinese maple as rootstock, graft red maple and feather maple indoors with bags; using apricot and peach seedlings as rootstock, graft plum blossoms (with the graft union buried in the soil for overwintering); using robust branches of rose (Elizabeth variety) as scions and branches of superior rose varieties as scions, perform cleft grafting or whip grafting followed by cuttings to promote simultaneous healing of the graft union and rooting of the lower cut, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

4. Layering. The following are some flowering plants that can be propagated by layering in November: flowering quince, gardenia, small-leaved gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, podocarpus, weigela, osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, cypress, Michelia figo, hydrangea, snowball viburnum, viburnum, and spirea.

5. Division. Woody ornamental plants that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea rubra, Trifolium repens, St. John's wort, Hypericum perforatum, Mahonia japonica, Buddleja officinalis, Paeonia suffruticosa, Broom, Forsythia suspensa, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus chinensis, Bambusa textilis, and Phyllostachys edulis.

In areas south of the Yangtze River, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlias, canna lilies, and large-flowered canna lilies can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut and replanted.

Herbaceous plants and flowers that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta, Vitex negundo, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris, ornamental bromeliads, Liriope muscari, Liriope muscari, Zephyranthes candida, Aglaonema, Aspidistra elatior, and Kalanchoe pinnata.

1. Seed harvesting. Flower seeds that can be harvested in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Asters, Marigold, Tagetes rubra, and Maple Leaf.

The following are flower and tree species whose seeds can be harvested in November for dry storage: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, Japanese cypress, Japanese cypress, Japanese cypress, mimosa, sweetgum, camptotheca, eucommia, red osier dogwood, tallow tree, wisteria, crape myrtle, caragana, and hydrangea. The following are flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after harvesting or must be stored in moist sand: privet, small-leaved privet, palm, camphor tree, pencil cypress, soapberry, wolfberry, yew, southern magnolia, holly, holly, firethorn, photinia, photinia serratifolia, and rose (used for rootstock cultivation).

2. Transplanting and planting. In November, the following flowering plants can be transplanted for flower bed planting and border arrangements: dwarf snow lily, carnation, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, calendula, and kale.

Tree species suitable for transplanting in November include: camphor tree, magnolia grandiflora, mimosa, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow tree, white magnolia, osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden, giant crape myrtle, tulip tree, Magnolia x soulangeana, quince, and crabapple. For evergreen trees, branches and trunks must be appropriately pruned or shortened, and most leaves removed. The trunk should be tied securely with straw rope, and a large root ball (generally 6 to 7 times the diameter of the trunk) should be retained to ensure survival. For deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened, and large branches pruned, with a root ball retained and the trunk tied securely. After transplanting, large trees must be watered frequently and sprayed with water to ensure survival. Additionally, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or covered with mulch to prevent excessive water evaporation from the tree.

In November, plum trees, wintersweet, camellia, tea sasanqua, flowering quince, and weeping crabapple can be transplanted into pots and placed in greenhouses to induce flowering, in order to meet the needs of indoor display before and after the Spring Festival.

In November, potted hyacinths, tulips, and red-lipped daffodils should be moved into greenhouses to encourage them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, polytunnels, or indoors, the amount of watering in November should be based on keeping the potting soil moist, but not too wet. If the temperature is low and the plant is overwatered, it is prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is high, the amount of watering should be increased appropriately, and the leaves should be sprayed with water as needed.

For potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, tea sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, and cineraria, as well as fruit-bearing plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, firethorn, nandina, winter coral, and aralia, it is essential not only to keep the potting soil moist but also to frequently spray the plants with water to promote the growth of flower buds and make the fruits appear more vibrant.

For foliage plants kept in greenhouses, hothouses, and indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed with water frequently to keep them lush and glossy green. In greenhouses and indoors where the temperature is higher, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-hardy, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta scoparia, Dieffenbachia, Dieffenbachia 'Green Emperor', Croton tigrinum, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', the amount of watering should be controlled to help them safely overwinter.

[page] In November, the best time to water potted plants is between 10 and 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically the same as the soil temperature to avoid adverse reactions to the plants due to low water temperature, which could affect their safe overwintering.

2. Fertilization. For potted flowers kept indoors at temperatures above 15℃, such as azaleas, camellias, sasanqua camellias, plum blossoms, wintersweet, golden bud flowers, shrimp-leaf flowers, daphne, cineraria, cyclamen, flowering quince, hyacinths, clivias, tulips, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cacti, and variegated bromeliads, you can continue to apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Using a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers, foliage plants, and bonsai kept in general greenhouses, fertilization should be stopped to allow them to enter dormancy and overwinter normally. For most flowers and trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple, magnolia grandiflora, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia x soulangeana, magnolia liliiflora, Michelia champaca, Michelia alba, Michelia champaca 'Aurea', gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, Spiraea japonica, osmanthus, grape, rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, mimosa, palm, red maple, peony, forsythia, herbaceous peony, and Hypericum, dry cake fertilizer can be applied by burying it in the ground. The amount used per plant is 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg, and less can be used for smaller plants, to lay a good material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

3. Pruning. Continue pruning any remaining hedges, green walls, and spherical structures. After pruning, apply base fertilizer.

For bonsai plant species that are primarily pruned, comprehensive shaping and pruning should be carried out, such as Chinese elm, Fujian tea, Chinese privet, trident maple, oak, Chinese privet, firethorn, serissa, Chinese juniper, podocarpus, wintersweet, and crabapple, to lay a good framework for their growth and shaping next year.

Prune ground-planted or potted roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, retain 3 to 5 robust stems that are 1 to 2 years old, with the base of each stem measuring 30 to 50 centimeters. Cut off all other old stems at the base and remove all weak branches. For unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, drastically prune the current year's branches. Except for retaining the base of a few robust branches measuring 20 to 30 centimeters, remove all other current year's branches to encourage the growth of robust new shoots next year and lay a good foundation for abundant flowering.

Common flowering trees and shrubs found in flower beds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus, osmanthus, camphor tree, London plane tree, magnolia, forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, mimosa, firethorn, pittosporum, and crabapple, should have all their irregular, weak, inward-growing, diseased, or insect-infested branches pruned away. Excessive, overgrown branches that protrude from the crown should also be appropriately shortened. Additionally, in November, large palm trees can be stripped of their palm fibers and their trunks cleaned to ensure they present their proper ornamental value.

4. Cold Protection. For potted plants that are not too sensitive to cold, such as camellia, tea sasanqua, azalea, spring orchid, cymbidium, nandina, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, magnolia, pearl orchid, bottle orchid, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, kumquat, coralberry, schefflera, monstera, philodendron, fishtail palm, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, and bamboo palm, they can be placed in a plastic greenhouse, as long as the room temperature is maintained at around 5℃.

For potted flowers that are not cold-hardy, such as Maranta, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron simsii, Aglaia odorata, Croton tigrinum, Acanthopanax quinquefolia, Aglaonema 'Golden Vein', Dracaena fragrans, Ruby (Emerald) 'Green Giant', Emerald Green, Silver Queen, Frangipani, Dracaena sanderiana, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Cymbidium goeringii, they should be placed indoors at a temperature not lower than 10℃. Alternatively, they can be protected in a double-layered plastic greenhouse for overwintering.

For relatively cold-hardy bonsai or potted plants, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, azalea, pomegranate, elm, crape myrtle, boxwood, Chinese privet, podocarpus, five-needle pine, cypress, juniper, trident maple, and red maple, the pots can be directly buried in the soil in a sheltered, sunny location. Under conditions where the temperature does not drop below -10℃, frost damage is generally unlikely. In exceptionally cold weather, a thin film or soft straw can be added for extra protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, hothouses, or rooms in November, in addition to ensuring a certain temperature, good ventilation is essential. Open doors and windows around midday to allow air circulation, preventing the plants from dropping flowers, fruits, and leaves due to prolonged confinement indoors. Furthermore, the room should be kept free of toxic gases such as coal gas, as these can also cause leaf and fruit drop. When ventilating, avoid exposing the plants to direct drafts of cold air.

5. Pest and disease control. For flowering plants such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and chrysanthemums that are prone to leaf diseases, collecting and burning the fallen leaves under the plants can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

Continue to whitewash the trunks of roadside trees; for deadwood and split-trunked bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the deadwood and split-trunked parts to prevent deep rot of the wood.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. that appear on potted flowers and trees placed in greenhouses or polytunnels (which may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, cycad, orchid, camellia, clivia, and aspidistra), one method is to wipe them off with a damp cloth, and the other is to spray them with pesticides such as acetamiprid.

For aphids that appear on potted plants placed indoors (which may occur on magnolia, milan, bitter orange, and roses), tobacco water can be sprayed for control.

For azaleas placed in greenhouses, stop spraying foliar fertilizers, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, they are very likely to be contaminated with soot.

The main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping in November include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis var. velutipes, Juniperus chinensis var. chinensis, Euonymus alatus, Serissa japonica, Prunus mume, Lagerstroemia indica, Quercus acutissima, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Buxus megistophylla, Buxus chinensis var. chinensis, Ulmus parvifolia, Malus halliana, etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, if deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November and the trunk and branches can be re-tied and adjusted.

After preliminary root pruning, trunk cutting, and branch trimming, new tree stumps of species such as Chinese elm, Chinese privet, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn, and oleaster are planted in sandy loam fields using a shallow-burying and high-mounding method. They will be shaped after new branches sprout the following year.

After 1 to 2 years of maintenance and shaping, the tree stump, which has basically taken shape, can be repotted in November according to the shape characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches. It can then be placed in a suitable pot, with some rock and moss, and displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum trees, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Prunus persica, Lagerstroemia indica, Juniperus chinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc., can be potted in November in suitable containers. With enhanced water management, they can be displayed in squares, parks, and auditoriums the following spring.

Flower Planting Handbook (December Edition)

December Weather Characteristics: This month, most parts of my country enter winter, and the weather becomes colder. Snowfall increases from north to south, with temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions dropping below zero and frequent frost. This month, the care of flowers and trees should focus on three aspects: first, ensuring the insulation and frost protection of cold-sensitive plants moved into greenhouses, polytunnels, and indoor spaces; second, pruning, cleaning, tilling, and fertilizing outdoor plants; and third, preparing composted organic fertilizer and potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: Gloxinia, Asparagus fern, Clivia, Tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, Winter coral, Gerbera, etc.; Flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after harvesting or germinated in sand include: Rose (such as Elizabeth), Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Holly species, Pyracantha fortuneana, Palm, Privet, Camphor tree, Small-leaved Privet, Soapberry, Photinia, Photinia serratifolia, etc.

2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering plants that can be propagated outdoors in December include: plum blossoms (mainly varieties such as Gongfen and Lüe); roses (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda, and miniature roses); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (with heel cuttings), spirea, and boxwood. For plum and red-leaf plum cuttings, yellow-heart soil is recommended; for rose cuttings, a 2:1 mixture of rice husk ash and fine sand is suitable; other varieties can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with mulch for warmth and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings. Combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken from hibiscus, geraniums, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, echeveria, succulenta, purslane, kalanchoe, budding daisy, shrimp flower, begonia, magnolia, Rieger begonia, pearl orchid, jasmine, bleeding heart vine, lantana, schefflera, daphne, pothos, and cordyceps. Using cold-room seedbeds, cuttings can also be taken from gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, magnolia, St. John's wort, forsythia, winter jasmine, podocarpus, juniper, serissa, firethorn, silver willow, and three-lobed privet. Furthermore, branches of trumpet vine, lilac, and grapevines can be taken and stored in sand for propagation the following spring.

3. Grafting. For superior plum varieties, such as Bone Red and Cinnabar, grafting can be performed in December using seedlings of apricot, plum, or peach sown that year. After digging up the rootstock, cleft grafting or whip grafting is carried out. The grafted plants are then planted in a nursery bed at a specific spacing, with soil covering the graft union, or even most of the scion. Care should be taken to prevent water from seeping into the graft union. Cover with mulch to retain warmth and moisture. Remove the mulch the following spring after the scions sprout. Alternatively, superior rose varieties can be bud-grafted onto excavated wild rose plants; or healthy branches (10-12 cm long) of the Elizabeth rose variety can be cleft-grafted or whip-grafted with superior rose scions. The grafted Elizabeth scions are then sown in a loose nursery bed. The graft union can be buried in sand, taking care not to let water seep into the graft union. Cover with mulch to retain moisture and warmth. Remove the mulch the following spring after the scions sprout. Once the graft has fully established itself, the binding tape at the graft union can be cut with a blade. In addition, red maple trees can be grafted indoors while keeping the soil moist by covering them with bags.

4. Layering. Plant species suitable for layering in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Snowball jasmine, Weigela florida, Gardenia jasminoides, Forsythia suspensa, Forsythia suspensa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea macrophylla 'Hydrangea', Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea japonica, and Punica granatum.

5. Division. Herbaceous flowering plants that can be propagated by division in December include: Zephyranthes candida, Liriope muscari, Liriope muscari, Hosta, Aster tataricus, Oxalis corniculata, Aspidistra elatior, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris tectorum, Liriope muscari, Ophiopogon japonicus, Aglaonema 'Kalanchoe blossfeldiana', and Aglaonema 'Guangdong'. When dividing a large bromeliad plant, the offshoots at the base must have already grown into small plants three or four months old on the mother plant; otherwise, the colored stripes on the divided offshoots may easily disappear, which should be carefully considered.

Woody ornamental plants that can be propagated by division in December include: Nandina domestica, St. John's wort, Mahonia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea japonica 'Red', Broom, Forsythia suspensa, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus chinensis, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Sisalsa, Bambusa textilis, and Phyllostachys edulis.

1. Seed harvesting. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in December are generally those of herbaceous flowers that have been moved to greenhouses or cold rooms, such as salvia, globe amaranth, marigolds, cosmos, cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after harvesting.

The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be harvested in December include: roses, wisteria, privet, small-leaved privet, firethorn, aralia, holly, camphor, and photinia. After treatment, these seeds generally need to be stratified in sand to promote germination. They can only be sown in the ground after the seeds crack open and show white tips the following year. Dry storage can easily cause them to lose their vitality, leading to failure in sowing and seedling cultivation the following year.

2. Transplanting and Planting. Herbaceous flowers suitable for planting in flower beds in December include: carnations, kale, pansies, snapdragons, calendula, and daisies. Some flowering plants, such as daisies, calendula, snapdragons, kale, carnations, and pansies, can also be potted and placed in greenhouses for street displays the following spring.

Most deciduous trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted in December, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, mimosa, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, quince, Magnolia x soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, peach blossom, Chinese scholar tree, weeping scholar tree, etc. However, transplanting evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be done with more caution. Evergreen species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, holly, etc. When transplanting, the main shoots and large branches should be severely pruned, and most leaves should be removed. A large root ball should be retained, and the main trunk should be tied with straw rope and wrapped with mulch. The cut ends of the main trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with film to reduce water transpiration. After transplanting, the leaves and trunk should be frequently sprayed with water to ensure their survival.

Trees and flowering plants that can be potted in December include: plum blossoms, wintersweet, camellias, sasanqua camellias, flowering quince, and weeping crabapple. By placing them in a greenhouse and forcing them to bloom, they can be expected to flower during the Spring Festival.

In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, and red-lipped daffodils can continue to be kept in greenhouses to encourage flowering, which can help them bloom around the Spring Festival.

1. Cold Protection. In a simple plastic greenhouse where the temperature does not drop below 0℃, the following ornamental plants can be placed without frost damage, such as Norfolk Island pine, Asparagus setaceus, Aspidistra elatior, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Livistona chinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Rhapis excelsa, Nandina domestica, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Camellia japonica, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Phyllostachys edulis, Cycas revoluta, etc.

Ornamental plant species that require a winter temperature of no less than 5℃, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera arboricola, rubber tree, jasmine, magnolia, pearl orchid, dwarf coconut palm, calla lily, philodendron, monstera, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha's belly bamboo, can overwinter in double-layered plastic greenhouses. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10℃, such as croton, caladium, peperomia, calathea, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, dracaena, money tree, nerve plant, bromeliads, pink muhly grass, poinsettia, cymbidium, clematis, golden spathe, milan, phalaenopsis, cattleya, cycad, ruby (green) jewel, oncidium, and cymbidium goeringii, appropriate heating is necessary in a well-sealed double-layered greenhouse. During particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, straw curtains should be placed on the greenhouse roof and removed after the temperature warms up.

For cold-resistant potted and bonsai plants, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, rhododendron, pomegranate, elm, Chinese privet, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood, podocarpus, trident maple, cypress, garden cypress, red cypress, water myrtle, holly, and Chinese privet, they generally will not freeze when the temperature is not lower than -10℃. In particularly cold weather, cover them with mulch or soft straw for protection against the cold.

Whether in greenhouses, polytunnels, or indoors, potted plants, foliage plants, and fruit-bearing plants must be kept at a suitable indoor temperature and ensure proper ventilation. Open doors and windows around midday when the temperature is highest to allow air circulation and prevent leaf, flower, and fruit drop. When ventilating, avoid letting cold drafts blow directly on the plants to prevent adverse reactions.

2. Watering. For most potted plants and bonsai placed in greenhouses, polytunnels, and indoors, keep the soil moist. Overwatering when the temperature is low can easily cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of water and spray the leaves appropriately.

For potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, tea sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European daffodil, as well as fruit-bearing plants such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, kumquat, golden bean, winter coral, aralia seed, and nandina, it is essential not only to keep the potting soil moist but also to spray water on the leaves to promote the swelling of flower buds and enhance the vibrancy of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants kept indoors, it is necessary to keep the potting soil moist and spray water on the leaves to keep the leaves clean at all times. For foliage plants that are not very cold-hardy, such as Muhly, Syngonium, Maranta, Croton, and Silver Queen, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering when the room temperature is close to the minimum temperature limit they can tolerate in order to ensure that they can safely overwinter.

In December, the best time to water is 3 to 4 hours before or after noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically the same as the air and soil temperature to avoid adverse reactions to potted plants due to excessively low water temperature.

Newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors should be checked frequently and watered promptly. For transplanted evergreen trees, the leaves can be sprayed with water around noon to prevent the leaves from drying out and falling off.

3. Fertilization. For most potted flowers, foliage plants, bonsai, etc., placed in ordinary greenhouses, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most ground-planted green trees and flowers, such as crabapple, magnolia grandiflora, white magnolia, purple magnolia, magnolia, Michelia champaca, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, mimosa, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, peony, golden bell, hypericum, grape, rose, spirea, tulip tree, mountain plum, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, trumpet vine, climbing rose, hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, cedar, cypress, weeping willow, elm-leaf plum, plum blossom, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, hibiscus, etc., in December, while turning over the soil in the garden, fertilizer can be buried around the roots of the plants. The types of fertilizers include cake fertilizer, pig and cow manure, pond mud, septic tank residue, etc., to lay a good material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures between 10℃ and 15℃, such as camellias, tea sasanquas, azaleas, plum blossoms, wintersweet, golden bud flowers, shrimp-shaped flowers, bromeliads, daphne, cineraria, primroses, cyclamen, flowering quince, hyacinths, clivias, tulips, and freesias, a 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied to promote bud formation and flowering.

4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and spherical structures that were not pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, small-leaved privet, French privet, large-leaved boxwood, Chinese juniper, four-season osmanthus, and photinia. Spherical structures include holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood, pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and juniper. Fertilizer can be applied while pruning.

For ground-planted flowers and trees that have not yet been pruned in November, such as roses, crape myrtles, palms, red-leaf plums, photinseria, London plane trees, plum blossoms, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning. After pruning, fertilizer can be buried around the roots.

For bonsai plant species that require pruning, such as Chinese elm, Chinese privet, holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak, Chinese privet, firethorn, serissa, podocarpus, cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and quince, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be done in conjunction with pruning.

5. Pest and disease control. For flowering plants such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and crape myrtles, which are prone to leaf diseases and pests, collect and burn the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants to reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew in potted cineraria and gray mold in primrose, the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species of plants in greenhouses that are prone to scale insect infestation, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, cycad, camellia, and aspidistra, wipe them with a cloth first, and then use pesticides such as sludge-killing agents for control.

For flowering plants that are prone to aphids in poorly ventilated conditions, such as magnolia, milan, bitter orange, rose, and Fukien tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

For various scale insects that frequently appear on the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering trees and shrubs such as Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, London plane trees, Camellia, Ligustrum lucidum, Pyracantha fortuneana, Oleander, Crataegus pinnatifida, Magnolia denudata, Cercis chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Cedrus deodara, Photinia serratifolia, Lagerstroemia indica, and Chimonanthus praecox, such as the horned wax scale, Japanese tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, shield scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and velvet scale, spraying with higher concentrations of pesticides such as chlorpyrifos, quinalphos, and pymetrozine rarely causes phytotoxicity.

6. Composting fertilizer. To prepare for next year's seedling cultivation and potting soil, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc., can be poured into water tanks or ponds during the winter off-season, and then sealed and fermented with water.

Dry, withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc., are piled up in layers with garden soil and then burned to form burnt soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling cultivation next year.

Manure, pond mud, chicken and pigeon droppings, etc., are mixed with garden soil, piled up, sealed and fermented, and can be used as top dressing for seedlings and for preparing potting soil in the following year.

7. Prepare potting soil. During the winter off-season, find an open space or under the shade of a tree and compost as much potting soil as possible to prepare for repotting and potting flowering plants the following spring. Generally, the soil should consist of 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts mountain humus), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco dust, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris. After mixing thoroughly, cover with plastic film or store indoors. After 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting flowering plants.

8. Tilling and freezing the soil. For gardens to be used for sowing, cutting, and planting seedlings next year, tilling can be carried out in December; for gardens to be sown and planted, cake fertilizer, manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before tilling; do not make beds for the time being, and let the soil freeze over the winter, and then make beds by digging ditches in early spring of the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and reduce the occurrence of diseases and pests.

Ornamental plants suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis var. mongolica, Juniperus chinensis var. pubescens, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis var. pubescens, Juniperus chinensis var. chinensis, Pinus tabuliformis, Pinus tabuliformis, Pinus tabuliformis, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Euonymus alatus, Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Broom japonica, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia theezans, Acer buergerianum, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Camellia fruticosa, Fraxinus chinensis, and Quercus acutissima.

For bonsai plants that have been tied and fixed with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing time has been a year, or if obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the original binding should be removed and new metal wire or palm fiber rope should be used for hanging and guiding.

For plum trees, podocarpus, crabapple, ginkgo, juniper, crape myrtle, and other plants that have already been shaped and planted in the ground, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots for planting and strengthen management so that they can be used for display in public places or homes next year.

In winter, shallow-potted landscape bonsai and tree stump bonsai require careful management. Firstly, prevent the soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots. Secondly, prevent artificially bound rocks from breaking apart due to freezing. Thirdly, prevent plants planted on artificial rock formations from freezing or drying out. Place them in a location where freezing doesn't occur and water or mist them regularly to ensure their safe overwintering.

Flower Planting Handbook (January Edition)

January's weather characteristics: This month is the coldest and coldest of the year. January 5th is Minor Cold, coinciding with the "Third Nine Days" of winter, when most parts of my country enter a period of severe cold. January 20th is Major Cold, with frequent southward movements of cold air from the north, resulting in heavy frost and snow, and the lowest temperatures of the year. The most important aspect of flower care this month is ensuring the insulation and protection of cold-sensitive plants and bonsai in greenhouses, polytunnels, and indoor spaces. Secondary tasks include pruning trees, clearing away dead branches and fallen leaves, and preparing the soil for potting mix.

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: Gloxinia, Asparagus fern, Clivia, Tuberous begonia, Cyclamen, Winter coral, Gerbera, etc. Ornamental plants that can be sown outdoors include: Rose (Elizabeth), Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Holly, Pyracantha fortuneana, Palm, Photinia, Photinia serratifolia, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Wisteria, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria paniculata, etc.

2. Propagation by cuttings. Ornamental plants suitable for outdoor or mulched propagation in January include: plum blossoms (varieties such as Green Calyx and Palace Pink), red-leaf plum, roses (varieties such as Elizabeth, Floribunda, and Miniature), cherry blossoms, wintersweet (with heel), spirea, boxwoods, pomegranates, silver willows, Mahonia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Serissa japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum, Forsythia suspensa, Spiraea japonica, Forsythia suspensa, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. Plants suitable for greenhouse propagation by cuttings include: jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, geraniums, fuchsias, African violets (leaf cuttings), Belgian azaleas, bougainvillea, Dianthus caryophyllum, Umbrella grass, Echeveria elegans, Jade plant, Jade tree, Echeveria elegans, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Pilea peperomioides, Pilea peperomioides, Pilea peperomioides, Shrimp-leaved grass, Golden bud flower, Kalanchoe pinnata, Begonia 'Rieger', Bleeding heart vine, Schefflera arboricola, Rubber tree, Daphne odora, Red-backed laurel, Aglaonema 'Guangdong', Epipremnum aureum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. In addition, branches of lilac, trumpet vine, tamarisk, grape, sea hyacinth, deutzia, hydrangea, sycamore, and fig can be cut and stored in sand until March for propagation.

3. Grafting. For superior plum varieties, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, plum, wild peach, or hairy peach can be used as rootstocks for grafting. After grafting, the seedlings are planted in a seedbed and covered with mulch to retain moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, bud grafting of tangerines and kumquats is often performed between the Lesser Cold and Greater Cold periods. Superior varieties of roses are bud-grafted from excavated wild roses, using the Elizabeth rose variety as rootstock. Grafting or cleft grafting of superior rose varieties is carried out simultaneously with cuttings, and mulch is used to retain moisture and protect against cold.

4. Layering. Ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering in January include: magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, flowering quince, podocarpus, snowball, viburnum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, hydrangea, spirea, pomegranate, red maple, etc.

5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plants suitable for division propagation in January include: *Liriope muscari*, *Liriope spicata* var. *major*, *Liriope muscari* var. *silver-edged*, *Liriope muscari* var. *major*, *Zephyranthes candida*, *Zephyranthes candida*, *Hosta*, *Aglaonema purpurea*, *Cymbidium ensifolium*, *Cymbidium faberi*, *Cymbidium goeringii*, *Cymbidium faberi*, *Nephrolepis cordifolia*, *Iris tectorum*, *Chlorophytum comosum*, *Aglaonema edulis*, *Kalanchoe pinnatifida*, bromeliads, *Dalbergia odorifera*, *Alpinia zerumbet*, *Monstera deliciosa*, *Aloe vera*, etc. Woody ornamental plants suitable for division propagation in January include: *Nandina domestica*, *Hypericum perforatum*, *Mahonia japonica*, *Chaenomeles speciosa*, *Rhapis excelsa*, *Spiraea japonica*, *Spiraea rubra*, *Spiraea rubra*, *Broom*, *Forsythia suspensa*, *Jasminum nudiflorum*, *Jasminum sambac*, *Chloranthus spicatus*, *Euphorbia milii*, *Gardenia jasminoides*, *Syringa vulgaris*, *Buxus microphylla*, *Magnolia liliiflora*, etc.

6. Seed Harvesting. In January, if there are mature Asparagus fern and Clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be harvested and sown immediately. Mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Ilex chinensis, and Ardisia crenata can be harvested, treated, and then stratified in sand to promote germination. They can be sown only after the seeds have cracked open and show white tips.

In January, seeds stored in sand should be checked frequently, including those of magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, and Ilex species, to see if any mold has appeared. If mold is found, the seeds must be poured out, washed again, and replaced with clean, fine sand before storage. If the seeds are found to be dry, they should be sprayed with water promptly. If the seeds have cracked open and the white part is exposed, or if the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately and covered with mulch, straw, or pine needles to keep them warm and moist.

II. Transplanting and Planting

In January, flowering plants that can be transplanted in less cold regions include: carnations, kale, calendula, and daisies. In colder regions, seedlings of carnations, kale, snapdragons, pansies, and primroses can be potted and placed in simple plastic greenhouses until spring arrives and the weather warms up before being used for street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and landscaping trees can be transplanted, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, mimosa, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, quince, Magnolia x soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, peach blossom, tallow tree, red spirea, three-lobed privet, rose, Chinese scholar tree, and weeping willow. Evergreen species, especially camphor and Chinese tallow tree, should generally be transplanted in December or February, except in special circumstances. Of course, in sheltered locations, heavy pruning after transplanting and enhanced post-transplant frost protection and watering management are also acceptable.

In January, despite the cold weather, the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation and land preparation is not hindered in areas south of the Yangtze River. The collection primarily focuses on deciduous tree stumps, such as those of Chinese elm, Chinese privet, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, oleaster, and weeping euonymus. For evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, cat's thorn, holly, holly, and oak, intensive pruning and removal of most leaves are necessary. Both deciduous and evergreen stumps should be planted using the shallow-burying, high-mounding method and covered with straw mats for frost protection.

III. Cold Protection

Cold protection and insulation are of paramount importance in this month's management; even slight negligence can lead to serious losses for potted plants and bonsai during winter. A special, safe overwintering environment should be created for each plant species based on their minimum tolerance temperature, whether in a greenhouse, polytunnel, indoors, or buried in open ground. In a simple plastic greenhouse at a temperature not lower than 0℃, ornamental plants that can tolerate temperatures around 0℃ can be placed, such as *Podocarpus macrocarpa*, *Asparagus setaceus*, *Aspidistra elatior*, *Fatsia japonica*, *Livistona chinensis*, *Nephrolepis cordifolia*, *Rhapis excelsa*, *Nandina domestica*, *Aucuba japonica*, *Michelia figo*, *Cymbidium goeringii*, *Orchidonia spp.*, *Ardisia crenata*, *Daphne odora*, *Cycas revoluta*, *Acorus calamus*, *Bambusa textilis*, and *Phyllostachys nigra*. In a double-layered plastic greenhouse with a temperature not lower than 5℃, ornamental plants that can tolerate temperatures around 5℃ can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, pearl orchid, magnolia, dwarf coconut palm, bottle orchid, calla lily, philodendron, monstera, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, tea sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, basil, Belly azalea, bougainvillea, lantana, etc. In double-layered plastic greenhouses or hothouses equipped with auxiliary heating devices, flower varieties that can tolerate temperatures around 10℃ can be placed, such as croton, caladium, syngonium, calathea, bromeliads, peperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, dracaena, money tree, nerve plant, ruby (emerald), green giant, green emperor, silver queen, milan, cymbidium, phalaenopsis, cattleya, oncidium, Vanda, money tree, South American cycad, desert rose, pink muhly grass, poinsettia, golden spathe, coral flower, etc. During particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, it is advisable to cover the greenhouse roof with straw mats until the temperature warms up. On very cold days, it is essential to strengthen the inspection of heating facilities and on-duty personnel, especially between 5 am and 6 am, and never turn off the fire or cut off the power, otherwise it can easily cause frost damage to the plants. For cold-resistant potted flowers and bonsai plants, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, rhododendron, pomegranate, elm, Chinese privet, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood, podocarpus, trident maple, cypress, juniper, summer cypress, arborvitae, small bayberry, holly, holly, and Chinese privet, the pots can be buried in the soil together. They generally will not suffer frost damage at temperatures not lower than -10℃. In particularly cold weather, cover with mulch or soft straw for insulation.

It is worth noting that whether potted plants or bonsai are kept in greenhouses, polytunnels, or at home, including fruit-bearing and foliage plants, in addition to maintaining a suitable temperature, good ventilation is essential. Open doors and windows around noon when the temperature is highest to allow air circulation and prevent flower, leaf, and fruit drop. When ventilating, avoid direct drafts of cold air onto the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and polytunnels during each southward movement of cold air. If broken glass or torn film is found, leaks should be plugged and repaired in time to prevent potted plants from freezing. When providing coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, careful checks should also be carried out to prevent gas or smoke from entering the greenhouse or polytunnel, in order to prevent flower, leaf, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage.

To encourage peonies to bloom around the Spring Festival, potted peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, with daytime temperatures raised to 18°C to 25°C and nighttime temperatures maintained at around 10°C. Increase daily light exposure by 4 to 5 hours (using incandescent bulbs). They should bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, camellias, tea-sweet, flowering quince, weeping crabapple, and forsythia can also be forced to bloom in a greenhouse at around 15°C, with increased light exposure. This will meet the needs of indoor potted plants for display during the Spring Festival. Potted hyacinths, tulips, red-lipped daffodils, and freesias already placed in greenhouses in December should have their water and fertilizer management strengthened; they can also be used for decoration during the Spring Festival.

IV. Watering

The most important aspect of watering potted plants in January is ensuring the water temperature is roughly the same as the soil temperature. A significant difference between the two can easily cause adverse reactions in the plants, even leading to leaf drop, root rot, or death. Watering is best done 2-3 hours before or after midday. Secondly, the amount, frequency, and method of watering should be determined based on the plant species. For most potted plants and bonsai kept in greenhouses, polytunnels, or indoors, keeping the soil moist is sufficient. Reduce watering when temperatures are low, and increase watering and foliar spraying when temperatures rise. For most foliage plants, keep the soil moist while also spraying the leaves to keep them clean. For less cold-hardy foliage plants, such as Muhly grass, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, and Croton, watering should be carefully controlled when the temperature approaches their minimum tolerance level. For potted plants that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellias, sasanqua, Belgian azaleas, poinsettias, cinerarias, wintersweet, plum blossoms, primroses, hyacinths, kalanchoes, and calendulas, as well as fruit-bearing plants such as firethorn, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, aralia, kumquat, golden bean, and winter coral, it is essential not only to keep the potting soil moist but also to spray the plants with water to promote the expansion of flower buds and enhance the vibrant color of the fruits.

Although potted flowers do not require much water in January, they should be checked more frequently to prevent them from drying out if they are placed in remote areas. Plants with dry soil should be watered promptly to reduce the mortality of overwintering plants.

Newly planted trees and flowering shrubs should be checked frequently and watered promptly. In particular, evergreen ornamental plants that have been transplanted should be sprayed with water around noon to prevent the leaves from wrinkling and falling off due to excessive dryness.

V. Fertilization

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia x soulangeana, magnolia grandiflora, magnolia simsii, magnolia, Michelia champaca, maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Podocarpus macrophyllus, cherry blossom, soapberry, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, palm, Schima superba, Machilus chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Camptotheca acuminata, peony, Forsythia suspensa, Buxus microphylla, grape, coral tree, rose, hydrangea, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus japonica, elm. If fertilization of trees such as Prunus armeniaca, Liriodendron tulipifera, Deutzia spp., Prunus mume, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus decipiens, Salix matsudana, Ulmus pumila, Cryptomeria japonica, Taiwania spruce, Cedrus deodara, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. chinensis, Prunus mume var. chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Syringa vulgaris, Lagerstroemia indica, Photinia serratifolia, Nandina domestica, Phyllostachys nigra, Punica granatum, and Eriobotrya japonica is not completed in December, fertilizers such as cake fertilizer, manure, pond mud, and septic tank waste can be applied around the root system while turning the soil to lay a good material foundation for growth and flowering in spring.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at around 10℃ to 15℃, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp flower, golden spathe, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-lipped daffodil, flowering quince, hyacinth, tulip, bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, and Christmas cactus, a low concentration of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied to promote plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowers, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in greenhouses, fertilization should be stopped because the plants are dormant in winter; otherwise, it can easily cause root rot and death.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and spheres that were not pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs that were not pruned in December, such as roses, crape myrtles, climbing roses, trumpet vines, wisteria, floribunda roses, camphor trees, London plane trees, tallow trees, photinia, pomegranates, red-leaf plums, quince, wintersweet, plum blossoms, palms, and grapes; after pruning, apply base fertilizer around their root systems to meet their needs for spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are primarily pruned and secondarily trained, such as Chinese elm, Chinese privet, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese privet, water myrtle, oleaster, firethorn, serissa, and juniper, adjustments and pruning can continue according to the original composition requirements, the development trend of the plant's trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic preferences, laying a good foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that haven't been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple, plum, elm, papaya, loquat, peach, cherry, and red-leaf plum trees that have been hollowed out by pests such as the peach-necked longhorn beetle, the branches can be sawed off and the sawn-off trunks and branches burned.

Cleaning up the leaves under rose, grape, and crape myrtle trees, collecting them, and burning them can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For scale insects such as horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, shield scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and thread scale that appear on the trunks and branches of trees such as Pittosporum tobira, London plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, and photinia, spraying with high concentrations of chlorpyrifos, quinalphos, chlorpyrifos, and lime sulfur can effectively suppress the large-scale outbreak of scale insects in the current year.

Powdery mildew on cineraria leaves in greenhouses and gray mold on primrose leaves can be controlled with thiophanate-methyl to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For the simultaneous occurrence of scale insects and sooty mold on plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, and kumquat in the greenhouse, a comprehensive control approach should be adopted. First, wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insects attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, and then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, it can be controlled by spraying with 50% iprodione (the main component is isothiamethoxam) wettable powder at a dilution of 1000 to 1500 times.

8. Compost

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into a pool or water tank for soaking and fermentation, so that they can be used for watering potted plants during the growing season; pile dry grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. in layers with garden soil, and burn them to make fire-burnt soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix manure, pond manure, tobacco dust, chicken manure, pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil and compost them to make fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

9. Plowing and tilling frozen soil

For nursery land that has not been tilled by December, tilling can be carried out in early January. At the same time as tilling the land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and soil fertilizer. After the frost has subsided over winter, ditches can be dug in early spring to make beds for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, the plants suitable for styling must be those with flexible, resilient branches that are easy to shape, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Cypress, Ginkgo, Buxus microphylla, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus chinensis, Serissa japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Juniperus chinensis var. chinensis, Pinus parviflora, Pinus tabuliformis, Pinus thunbergii, Myrica rubra, Broom, Waxflower, Euonymus alatus, Ficus microcarpa, and Wisteria sieboldii. After styling, it is best to keep the plants indoors or in a simple plastic greenhouse until spring when the weather warms up, and then move them outdoors. This will help the areas that may have been damaged during styling to heal.

For plants that were shaped with palm rope or wire 1 to 2 years ago, if obvious constriction marks are found at the binding points, the original bindings should be removed and the plants should be re-tied and guided.

In January, strict management is required for shallow-potted tree stump bonsai, shallow-potted landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be placed on sand beds indoors; tree stump bonsai should be protected from freezing soil, which can damage the plant's hairy roots and cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate. Plants planted on small stones should also be protected from freezing and dying. They should be placed in a place where freezing does not occur and watered and sprayed regularly to ensure their safe overwintering.

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