Flower cultivation methods and precautions
Threaded Iron
The threaded iron tree, also known as the willow-patterned iron tree, the Philippine iron tree, the curled-leaf iron tree, and the twisted iron tree, is one of the cultivated varieties of the genus Dracaena in the Liliaceae family. It is a tropical evergreen shrub. So, how to grow the threaded iron tree? The following is a detailed introduction to the cultivation methods of the threaded iron tree and some precautions.
How to maintain thread iron?
The thread iron is suitable for growing in a hot, humid, and semi-shaded environment. Because it does not require much sunlight, it can keep its buds tender and leaves green under indirect light. The leaves are flat and long, similar to banana leaves, but smaller than banana leaves. In addition, the thread iron is suitable for planting in culture soil, which can be sandy loam with good drainage. The best growth temperature is between 20 and 30 degrees, and the lowest temperature in winter cannot be lower than 10 degrees.
How to cultivate thread iron
First, we need to prepare the substrate for planting thread iron. We can use loose, well-drained and well-ventilated imported peat of Pins 5-40mm. Mix the peat with water and wait for the cup to be planted. The amount of peat used for each 14cm pot is about 400 ml, and a bag of 300 liters of imported peat can hold about 750 cups.
Then choose high-quality seedlings produced by professional production, with a seedling height of 11cm, a crown width of 7-8cm, no diseases and insect pests, no dead leaves, yellow leaves, etc. When potting, generally use a 14cm diameter pot for planting. When planting, first pad about 2cm of substrate at the bottom of the cup, and then move the sieved seedlings into the cup. The seedlings should not be planted too deep, and it is better to level the base of the plant; the substrate should be moderately tight and filled to 90% of the cup.
The rest is just routine maintenance. The demand for water of thread iron is not very high, so it is generally advisable to water it when the soil is dry. The thread iron grows slowly and its demand for fertilizer is relatively small. In the first 3 to 4 months after planting, due to its underdeveloped root system, it is generally sufficient to water it with water-soluble fertilizer once every half a month. If the amount of fertilizer and water used is large, it will be detrimental to the growth of thread iron.
Precautions for breeding of thread iron
1. Potted production standards: 14cm pot, 35cm height, crown width of about 40cm, market cycle 7-8 months.
2. Substrate preparation: Use loose, well-drained and well-ventilated imported peat of 5-40mm, add water to the peat and mix well (the standard for adding water: after adding water and mixing well, hold a handful of peat tightly in your hand, and water will seep out from the gaps between your fingers). Wait for planting in cups. The amount of peat used for each 14cm pot is about 400 ml, and a bag of 300 liters of imported peat can hold about 750 cups.
3. Requirements for potting seedlings: Choose high-quality seedlings produced by professional production, with a seedling height of 11cm, a crown width of 7-8cm, no pests and diseases, no dead leaves or yellow leaves
4. Cup: For old pots that are reused, soak them in 1000 times potassium permanganate solution for more than half an hour, then rinse with clean water and dry them for later use. Generally, pots with a diameter of 14 cm are used for planting. When planting, first place a 2 cm substrate at the bottom of the cup, and then move the sieved seedlings into the cup. The seedlings should not be planted too deep, and it is better to level the base of the plant; the substrate should be moderately tight and filled to 90% of the cup.
White Anthurium
Also known as Bracteatum and Spathiphyllum. Spathiphyllum belongs to the Araceae family, Spathiphyllum genus, and is a perennial herb. Spathiphyllum has emerald green leaves and white spathes, which are very fresh and elegant. It is also an expert in filtering indoor exhaust gas, and has certain effects on ammonia, acetone, benzene and formaldehyde. Spathiphyllum is a perennial herb. It has a short rhizome. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, gradually pointed at both ends, with obvious veins, long petioles, and sheath-like bases. The scape is upright, higher than the leaf cluster, the spathe is upright, slightly curled, and white, and the spadix is cylindrical and white.
Reproduction method
Spathiphyllum can be propagated by division and sowing. Healthy plants can be divided once every two years, usually in spring when repotting or after autumn. Before new buds grow, pour out the limited plants from the pot, remove the old culture soil, divide the rhizomes into several clumps at the base of the plant (each clump contains more than 3 buds), and replant them in new culture soil. After flowering, Spathiphyllum can be artificially pollinated to obtain seeds, which can be sown as soon as they are harvested for reproduction. However, since Spathiphyllum plants divide very quickly, division is often used for reproduction. Tissue culture is often used for mass production, which proliferates rapidly and produces neat plants.
Propagation by division
Since Spathiphyllum easily produces suckers, this method is often used for propagation. Healthy plants can be divided once every two years. In early spring, before new buds emerge, pour the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut the rhizomes at the base of the plant. It is best to have more than three stems and buds in each small clump, and try to bring as many root groups as possible to facilitate the new plants to grow new leaves quickly and have a fuller plant shape.
Cultivation management
Spathiphyllum is shade-tolerant, and only about 60% of scattered light is needed to meet its growth needs. Therefore, it can be cultivated indoors in bright scattered light all year round. In summer, 60% to 70% of the sunlight can be blocked, and strong direct light should be avoided, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and sunburn will occur in severe cases. In winter greenhouse cultivation in the north, no or little shading is required. If the light is too dark for a long time, it will not bloom easily. Spathiphyllum is a species that likes high temperatures and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. The minimum temperature at night in winter should be 14 to 16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperatures can easily cause leaves to fall off or turn brown.
During the growth period, the pot soil should be kept moist at all times, but avoid excessive watering. Long-term moisture in the pot soil will easily cause root rot and plant withering. In summer and dry seasons, you should often use a fine-eye sprayer to spray water on the leaves and sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to keep the air moist, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. In dry climates and low air humidity, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases, they will wither and fall off. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the pot soil should be slightly moist.
The potted Spathiphyllum requires loose soil with good drainage and ventilation. Heavy clay soil should not be used. Generally, leaf mold, peat soil and a small amount of perlite can be mixed into the matrix; a small amount of organic fertilizer should be added as base fertilizer during planting. Because it grows fast and requires a large amount of fertilizer, liquid fertilizer should be applied every 1 to 2 weeks during the growing season; at the same time, sufficient water should be supplied, and the pot soil should be kept moist. During the high temperature period, water should be sprayed on the leaves and the ground to increase the air humidity. If the surrounding environment is too dry, the new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases, they will wither and fall off. In late autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be reduced, and the pot soil should be kept slightly moist. It requires semi-shaded or scattered light conditions, and 60% to 70% shade should be provided during the growing season. If the light is too strong, the leaves are easily burned and scorched, the leaf color is dull and loses its luster; if the light is too dark for a long time, the plant will not grow strong and will not bloom easily. Spathiphyllum is a species that likes high temperatures. Long-term low temperature and humidity can easily cause root rot and yellowing of the aboveground parts, so it is necessary to pay attention to cold protection and heat preservation in winter, and keep the pot soil moist at the same time.
Spathiphyllum wilts
There are many reasons why Spathiphyllum wilts, mainly due to unsuitable environment and improper maintenance.
1. Improper light. Spathiphyllum needs better light in winter and early spring. Do not shade it. When the light becomes stronger, gradually shade it. If you appreciate it in a shaded place, do not expose it directly to the sun, otherwise it will become uncomfortable due to the rapid change of the environment, which will manifest as wilting, yellow leaves, or even death. Spathiphyllum is more shade-tolerant. As long as there is about 60% of scattered light, it can meet its growth needs. Therefore, it can be cultivated in a bright scattered light indoors all year round. In summer, 60% to 70% of the sunlight can be blocked. Avoid direct strong light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and sunburn will occur in severe cases. In winter, greenhouse cultivation in the north can be done without or with less shading. If the light is too dark for a long time, it is not easy to bloom. Spathiphyllum is a species that likes high temperature and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. The minimum temperature at night in winter should be 14 to 16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperature can easily cause leaves to fall off or become burnt. During the growth period, the pot soil should be kept moist at all times, but excessive watering should be avoided. The pot soil should be kept wet for a long time, otherwise it will easily cause root rot and plant yellowing. In summer and dry seasons, water should be sprayed on the leaves with a fine-eye sprayer and on the ground around the plant to keep the air moist, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. In dry climates and low air humidity, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases, they will wither and fall off. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the pot soil should be slightly wet. White palm potted plants require loose soil with good drainage and ventilation. Heavy clay soil should not be used. Generally, leaf mold and peat soil can be mixed with a small amount of perlite to make a matrix; a small amount of organic fertilizer should be added as base fertilizer during planting. Due to its fast growth rate and large fertilizer requirements, liquid fertilizer should be applied every 1 to 2 weeks during the growing season; at the same time, sufficient water should be provided, and the pot soil should be kept moist at all times. During high temperature periods, water should also be sprayed on the leaves and the ground to increase air humidity. If the surrounding environment is too dry, the new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases, they will wither and fall off.
3. Improper fertilization. Fertilizer should be applied thinly, not concentrated fertilizer or raw fertilizer, and water once after applying solid fertilizer. It is best to use thin fertilizer water instead of water for irrigation, which generally will not cause fertilizer damage and the plants will grow luxuriantly.
4. Temperature discomfort. Generally, this situation will not occur at this time, but it is more likely to occur when the temperature is below 5℃ or above 35℃.
5. Pests. If there are harmful mites, the leaves will wilt, lose their luster, turn yellow, and other adverse symptoms. You can spray special miticides for prevention and control, such as trichlorodicofol, nisolan, and pyridaben.
Flowering and light
The flowering of Spathiphyllum is not only caused by light, but also needs to be induced. The method is to spray gibberellic acid to artificially induce the plant to bloom. The flowering time varies for different varieties. Small varieties respond faster to gibberellic acid and can bloom 7-9 weeks after spraying. Medium-sized varieties need 10-11 weeks, and large varieties need 12-13 weeks. It should be noted that too high a concentration of gibberellic acid will cause the plant's flowers to deform. Generally, it is sufficient to be between 1000-1500 times.
Regarding light, when the light is strong, it is best to grow it in semi-shade or scattered light. In winter, it is best to provide sufficient light conditions, which is not only conducive to the dark green color of the leaves, but also conducive to overwintering.
Peace tree
The cultivation method of potted peace trees should mainly be based on its ecological habits to effectively control plant growth factors such as light, water, soil, and fertilizer. The Pingding tree likes a warm, humid, and sunny environment. At the same time, it is relatively shade-tolerant and intolerant of drought, severe cold, and salinity. So what should be paid attention to in the cultivation method of the Pingding tree according to its growth habits?
1. Potting soil selection: The potting soil for the peace tree potted plant should be loose, fertile, well-drained, and rich in organic matter. This is also the potting soil requirement for most indoor flower cultivation. If the soil is too sticky or has low acidity, it will cause the leaves of the cultivated plants to turn yellow, and the germination and renewal rate will decrease, thus affecting the growth and life of the plants.
2. Suitable temperature for cultivation: The best temperature for the growth of peace trees is 22℃ to 30℃, and the minimum temperature cannot be lower than 5℃. If there is freezing or continuous frost, insulation should be done to prevent the bark from cracking and the branches and leaves from withering. In severe cases, it may be frozen to death.
3. Sunlight requirements: All plant cultivation requires good light for photosynthesis to promote its effective growth. As a light-loving plant, the peace lily naturally needs enough light, but it is also afraid of strong light exposure, so the tree should be effectively shaded under the scorching sun in summer. The potted plant can also be placed in a location with weaker sunlight indoors. It can still grow well because the peace lily is relatively shade-tolerant. In addition, plants that have grown for three to five years should be avoided from exposure to the sun, and plants that have grown for six to ten years can also be exposed to more light to promote their effective growth.
4. How to control watering: During the growth period of the peace tree in spring and summer, the soil in the pot should always be kept moist, and the leaves and the breeding environment should be sprayed with water frequently to maintain a good air humidity in the breeding environment. In addition, when watering, some vinegar can be added to increase the acidity of the soil, especially in the case of relatively lack of acid in the soil in the north, vinegar can be added to the water to adjust the acidity of the soil.
5. Fertilization knowledge: After the newly planted potted plants have sprouted, they can be fertilized once a month. However, in the process of fertilization, it is important to apply it thinly and not too concentratedly, otherwise it will easily burn the roots of the cultivated plants, causing the leaves to wither and turn yellow until they die. In addition, some potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied before winter to enhance the cold resistance of the plants.
6. Loosening the soil and repotting: During the growing season of the potted peace holly, it is best to loosen the soil once a month to keep its root system in a good and permeable state. Small peace holly can be repotted once a year, and large peace holly can be repotted every 2 to 3 years. When repotting, some necrotic roots can be cut off in front to ensure normal growth of the potted plant.
When to prune the peace tree
It is recommended to prune after mid-April to see the weather conditions. The peace tree is a positive and warm plant. When pruning or transplanting, it must be done according to the temperature at the time. Do not do it arbitrarily. It is recommended to cut off the overlong branches when pruning. The length of pruning depends on the size of the crown you like. It looks better to cut the entire crown into a round shape. When the temperature rises, you can cut off the overlong branches. You can add water appropriately after pruning.
How to prune the peace tree
Pruning: Lanyu Cinnamon is an evergreen ornamental plant. Over time, the shape of the plant changes gradually. First, the lower leaves gradually decrease, and second, the height and amplitude increase. In order to meet the space placement requirements, it should be pruned and cut short in spring when the temperature is 20℃ to increase the number of branches, but it should be noted that when pruning, the distance from the cut to the internode bud should be larger, otherwise it will lose water and cause the branches to wither. And the cut must be smooth and not torn. If you pinch the top in time during the vegetative growth process to promote more branches, you can avoid plant shape disorders. Practice has shown that when maintaining Lanyu Cinnamon in the north, pinching the top in time is better than pruning.
According to the shape you want, just cut off the extra new branches and leaves, and they will grow again on the side! Don't cut off all the new branches and stems when cutting.
How to grow arrowroot
① Place it in a semi-shaded environment all year round and avoid western sunlight in summer.
②The temperature should be kept between 20℃ and 25℃ throughout the year, and the indoor temperature should be kept above 10℃ in winter.
③ Arrowroot can only grow well in a high humidity environment, so you should spray the plant and the surrounding ground with water regularly. In winter, use warm or cold boiled water for watering and spraying. If brown spots appear on the leaves in winter, it is because the water temperature is too low.
④Repot once a year, remove some old soil and add some new culture soil.
Cat's Eye Arrowroot
Cat's Eye Arrowroot is not cold-resistant or drought-resistant, and is afraid of scorching sun. If exposed to direct sunlight, it will burn the leaves, causing the edges of the leaves to partially burn, new leaves to stop growing, and the leaves to turn yellow. Therefore, attention should be paid to shading during cultivation. However, the growing environment cannot be too shaded, otherwise it will cause the plant to grow weakly. The spots on the leaves of some variegated varieties will fade or even disappear. It is best to place it in a bright place without direct sunlight.
Arrowroot is sensitive to water. It should be watered during the growing season to keep the soil moist, but the soil should not be stagnant, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Because arrowroot leaves are large and water evaporates quickly, it has high requirements for air humidity. If the air humidity is insufficient, the leaves will curl up immediately. It is very sensitive, especially during the growth period of new leaves. The plant should be sprayed with water frequently, otherwise the dry air will cause the new leaves to be difficult to stretch, the leaf edges will be scorched and yellow, and the leaves will be small and dull.
In order to make the cat's eye arrowroot beautiful, you can often use a clean soft cloth dipped in clean water to wipe the leaves to make the leaves bright and shiny. When the temperature exceeds 35℃ during the hottest period, it is not good for the growth of leaves. You should pay attention to ventilation and spraying water to cool down the plant so that it has a cool and moist environment.
Late spring and early summer is the growth period of new leaves. Apply decomposed thin liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer every 10 days. Apply fertilizer every 20 to 30 days in summer and the beginning of autumn. When applying, be careful not to add too much nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the leaves will become dull and the patterns will fade. Generally, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 2:1:1, so that the leaves are bright and colorful, and have a high ornamental value.
When the temperature is below 15℃ in winter, the plant stops growing. If it is below 13℃ for a long time, the leaves will be damaged by frost. Therefore, the best temperature for wintering is not less than 13℃, and more light should be received, less fertilizer should be applied, and watering should be reduced appropriately. Keep the pot soil moist and resume normal management after new leaves grow in spring. Repot every other year. The pot soil should be loose, fertile, well-drained and breathable, and slightly acidic soil rich in humus. Leaf mold or peat soil can be mixed with a small amount of coarse sand or perlite.
Garden soil, leaf humus and peat soil are commonly used for cultivation and maintenance, and appropriate amount of base fertilizer is added to make culture soil. Generally, the potting soil needs to be changed every 1-2 years. Arrowroot needs a lot of water during the vigorous growth period. It must be watered in time and kept moist. The leaves are prone to curling or losing their luster when they are slightly dry, which affects the ornamental effect. It enters a dormant state below 10, and watering should be reduced to keep the potting soil moist; some species will have dry stems and leaves during the dormant period. At this time, watering should be controlled and new plants will grow again in the next spring. Arrowroot grows quickly and has a large demand for fertilizer. Topdressing is generally required every 15 days during the growth period. Decomposed cake fertilizer water or compound fertilizer is often used. Nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied too much, otherwise the colorful leaf species will easily lose part or all of the pattern. Arrowroot likes light but is afraid of direct sunlight. If the light is too weak, the leaf color is not bright and the growth is poor; too strong light can easily cause leaf burns. In the low-temperature and dry areas in the north, families can use small glass boxes to keep their flowers closed during the winter, which often produces better results.
How to grow gardenia
Gardenia cutting propagation method
Cuttings: Use 15 cm long shoots in the rainy season and insert them into the seedbed. They will take root in 10-12 days. Layering: Select two-year-old branches in April, 20-25 cm long, bury them in the soil, keep them moist, and take root in about 30 days. Separate them from the mother plant in summer and transplant them in the following spring.
1. Soil: It is advisable to use fertile acidic soil rich in humus, which is the key to successful planting in northern families. Generally, you can choose leaf mold and 1 part of decomposed bean cake fertilizer, and add a certain amount of ferrous sulfate, or use 0.2% ferrous sulfate or alum fertilizer water to drench it 3 to 5 times after potting.
2. Cultivation: When planting with cuttings and layering seedlings, ensure that the root system of the plant is fully stretched, and fill the gaps in the root system with fine soil. The density of the filled soil is about 85%, and it is important to tighten the bottom and loosen the top, with a depth of about 1 cm above the root system. Water thoroughly after planting, generally it is better to let water seep from the bottom of the pot.
3. Gardenia requires a high air humidity. Families in the north can put clean water in the pot mat and place a thin board (about 3 cm). The water in the pot should not cover the thin board. The flower pot can be placed on the thin board. Pay attention to adding water frequently. The principle of watering is to water thoroughly when the soil is dry. It is better to use rainwater, snow water or fermented rice water for watering. If it is tap water, it should be left for 2 to 3 days before use. During the growing season, water with 0.2% ferrous sulfate water or alum fertilizer water once every 7 to 10 days. Gardenia should be placed in a place with scattered light under the shade of trees in summer. Water and spray water on the leaves frequently in spring, summer and early autumn to increase humidity. In winter, it is better to place it in the sun, stop fertilizing, and not water too much. You can often use water close to room temperature to flush the branches and leaves to keep the leaves clean, especially in rooms with heating in the north. Do not put the flower pot in front of the radiator or air conditioner to avoid dehydration of the leaves.
4.: Gardenia is prone to scale insects, spider mites and sooty mold in summer when the temperature is high and ventilation is poor. You can spray 40% dimethoate EC at a 1000-fold dilution to prevent scale insects, and 40% trichlorfon EC at a 1000-1500-fold dilution to prevent spider mites. It can also reduce the occurrence of sooty mold. For safety reasons, families can spray with laundry detergent liquid, which also has a certain effect.
5. Repotting: Generally, repotting is done once every 1 to 2 years, preferably in spring. In order to effectively prevent the soil from becoming alkaline, repotting can be done once a year. Before repotting, the pot must be removed. This should be done when the pot is dry and slightly loose. Generally, watering can be stopped for about 10 days. When repotting, cut off some roots, such as diseased and insect-infested roots, and overgrown roots, before planting.
6.: Generally carried out in spring, cut off the overly long branches, weak branches and other branches that affect the plant shape to maintain the beautiful plant shape. Gardenia flowers bloom on the top, so it is appropriate to top-trim during the growing season to promote the growth of flower branches and increase the number of flowers.
Gardenia can be planted in spring, summer and autumn, but the survival rate of cuttings is higher in spring from March to April. When cutting, cut 1 to 2 year old branches from healthy mother plants, cut into cuttings of about 20 cm, each section should have more than 3 nodes, cut off the lower leaves and then quickly dip the lower cut into 500ppm rooting powder solution for 15 seconds, take out and dry the solution and then plant. Before planting, draw lines and dot at a row spacing of 10 cm × 7 cm on the trimmed seedbed, and punch holes on the points with a small wooden stick, then insert 2/3 of the cuttings into the holes, compact with surrounding soil and water to keep them moist, weed and fertilize after survival, and plant out when the seedlings grow to about 50 cm.
Fertilization Gardenia is not a flower that likes fertilizer very much, but because it grows vigorously and is limited by the nutrients in the potting soil, it needs to be supplemented with fertilizers reasonably during the growing period. Apply decomposed human feces or cake fertilizer once every 10 days or so. Stop watering one day before fertilization and water thoroughly once on the day of fertilization. Stop fertilizing from mid-September. For adult plants, apply sesame paste residue once in mid-June and mid-August, 0.5-1 liang each time, crush and mix thoroughly with the topsoil.
Watering Gardenia likes a lot of water, some people call it "water gardenia". In the north, due to the strong winds, dry air and little rainfall in spring, water it once every three days, and sprinkle water around the potted flowers every morning and evening to increase the air humidity. In summer, the weather is hot after the beginning of the dog days, so water less in the morning and water thoroughly after 2 pm. It is better to irrigate with soft water in summer, because hard water contains more calcium and magnesium salts, which is very unfavorable to the growth of gardenia. At the least, the branches and leaves will turn yellow, and at the worst, they will die quickly. In order to overcome the alkalinity of the soil and water, water it with alum fertilizer water once a week during the growing season to keep the branches and leaves of the vibrator flower green. Watering should be controlled in winter. Do not water unless the soil is dry. Excessive water content for a long time can easily cause root rot and death.
Pests and diseases Gardenias are often prone to chlorosis, a disease in which the leaves turn yellow. Chlorosis is caused by a variety of reasons, so different measures must be taken to prevent and control it. Chlorosis caused by lack of fertilizer: This chlorosis starts from the old leaves at the bottom of the plant and gradually spreads to the new leaves. Nitrogen deficiency: The leaves turn yellow, and the new leaves are small and brittle. Potassium deficiency: The old leaves turn from green to brown. Phosphorus deficiency: The old leaves turn purple or dark red. For the above situations, you can force the application of decomposed human feces or cake fertilizer.
Gardenia Care and Management
Gardenia is a woody plant that is evergreen all year round. It blooms around the Dragon Boat Festival every year. The flowers are pure white, dense, and fragrant. It is an excellent plant for urban beautification, highway greening, and garden bonsai. Gardenia cultivation takes a short time, requires little investment, and has high benefits. It is cut in the first year, transplanted in the second year, and sold in the third year. The market price of each plant is about 2 yuan, and large ones can be sold for more than 3 yuan. The annual income per mu exceeds 10,000 yuan, which is a good way to get rich.
1. Gardenia is suitable for growing in acidic soil. It likes moisture and is afraid of dryness. It can grow at a humidity of 40-70%. If the potted plants are not watered for 7-10 days, they will die of drought. It likes fertilizer and can be fertilized with water containing ferrous sulfate, alum fertilizer or corrosive fertilizer. It is resistant to high temperatures and can grow even at 40℃. It is resistant to severe cold and will not freeze to death even at around 10℃.
2. Gardenia cultivation method Gardenia is a flowering but non-fruiting plant. It has no seeds and can only be cultivated by cuttings.
1. Cutting time. The first half of the year is in April, and the second half of the year is in August-September. These two periods are the best seasons for cutting gardenias, and also the best time for gardenias to reproduce. The temperature is generally between 15-35℃, and the climate is mild, which is suitable for cutting growth. Generally, cuttings can take root and sprout in 30-40 days.
2. Land preparation.
① Site selection: Choose land that is convenient for watering and ensure there is a source of water.
② Land preparation. Choose fertile, loose and well-ventilated land. Generally, deep plowing is done before frost, and the soil can be improved by overwintering frost. Sprinkle some plant ash and sand before cutting, then plow the land about 30 cm deep, and then water it, and you can start cutting.
3. Cuttings
① Selection of Gardenia branches: The branches should be 1-2 years old, with good skin color, green leaves and no insect pests.
② Pruning. Since the branches have sparse or dense nodes, it is generally advisable to keep 3 nodes in length. Remove the bottom leaves and leave 1-2 leaves on the upper nodes. Cut the bottom nodes diagonally leaving 1-2 cm, and cut the upper nodes flatly leaving 1-2 cm.
③ Cuttings. Insert the pruned branches directly into the prepared ground, with both nodes buried in the soil, leaving the top node just above the ground, and then water them sufficiently.
④ Watering. Water once in the morning and evening every day to ensure the humidity after cutting. The cutting density is 100-200 plants per square meter.
4. Avoid shade and keep moist. Although gardenia is not as fragile as herbaceous plants, a shade shed should be built to ensure the survival rate, which can avoid shade and keep moist. A simple method can use local materials without cost. Insert 50-60 cm wooden stakes around the cutting site, use branches to support them, and cover them with straw. Open the cover at any time on rainy days, and cover it again when the sun is strong.
5. Notes
① Avoid applying fertilizers before and after cuttings, especially human, livestock, poultry, natural fertilizers, urea, chemical fertilizers, etc.
②Avoid drought. 3. Transplantation The cultivation of gardenia in the seedling bed is the stage of promoting rooting, leaf growth and survival. Due to the high density, it is not convenient to further cultivate into large seedlings. This requires transplanting.
1. Land preparation. The amount of land depends on the number of gardenia seedlings. The transplanting density is generally 20-27 cm between rows and 13-17 cm between plants, with about 40 plants per square meter.
①Prepare the land and dig trenches. Dig trenches one shovel wide and 30-40 cm deep according to the row spacing.
② Apply sufficient base fertilizer. According to 100 kg of chemical fertilizer and 100 kg of phosphate fertilizer per mu, mix the soil and fertilizer evenly and fill them into the trough.
③The best time for transplanting is generally in early to mid-March. After transplanting, water thoroughly and then cover with a layer of fine soil.
2. Management
① Watering. Because gardenia likes moisture and is afraid of drought, water it once every night for a week after transplanting, and once a week thereafter.
② Topdressing. Apply some alum fertilizer containing ferrous sulfate 2 months after transplanting to supplement iron and prevent the leaves from turning yellow. Urea can be applied in holes every quarter.
③ Anti-insect. Spray the leaves with Didiwei in autumn and winter.
(1) Soil alkalinity: Gardenia is a southern flower that prefers slightly acidic soil. Generally, gardenias are cultivated in the north for a few years. Because the water quality in the north is hard and the alkalinity is high, the soil will gradually become alkaline, affecting the plant's absorption of iron. The leaves gradually turn from yellow to grayish white and fall off, which can seriously cause the death of the entire plant. Therefore, we need to keep the soil pH slightly acidic for this reason. We should often irrigate with alum fertilizer (ferrous sulfate; cake fertilizer; water, ferment for one month and turn yellow-green, then add water to apply) or directly add ferrous sulfate to water, soak grass in water, or add vinegar to water. This can effectively prevent the soil from becoming alkaline.
(2) Some people buy gardenias and then the leaves turn yellow within a few days. Since they were in good condition when they were bought, it is not a problem with the soil. In this case, we need to find problems with daily management. Gardenias like moisture and ventilation, tolerate shade and prefer light. They like water but are afraid of stagnant water.
Gardenia is most afraid of waterlogging, so the soil for growing gardenia must be well-drained. Heavy loam and some leaf molds with strong water retention and slow water seepage are not suitable. It is best to use red soil or sandy loam mixed with non-alkaline furnace ash.
Gardenia likes lots of water. As long as the drainage is good, it will not die. Watering must be done every day in summer.
Phalaenopsis cultivation technology
1. Cultivation medium: The common cultivation medium for Phalaenopsis is mainly aquatic plants and moss.
2. Temperature: The first thing to do when raising Phalaenopsis at home is to ensure the temperature. Phalaenopsis likes a high temperature and high humidity environment. The minimum temperature during the growth period should be kept above 15℃, and the suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16℃ to 30℃. Attention should be paid to warming up at the turn of autumn and winter, winter and spring, and when the temperature is low in winter. Generally, this temperature is not difficult to achieve in rooms with heating equipment in winter, but be careful not to place the flowers directly on the radiator or too close to it. When the temperature is high in summer, it is necessary to cool down and pay attention to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32℃, Phalaenopsis will usually enter a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperature should be avoided. The flowering period is around the Spring Festival. Appropriate cooling can extend the viewing time. When flowering, the night temperature is best controlled between 13℃ and 16℃, but not lower than 13℃.
3. Watering: Phalaenopsis is native to primeval forests, where there is a lot of fog and high temperatures.
Phalaenopsis does not have thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients. If the air temperature is insufficient, the leaves will become wrinkled and weak. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and maintained in a ventilated and humid environment. The air humidity suitable for the growth of Phalaenopsis is 50% to 80%. Phalaenopsis should be watered more during the period of vigorous elongation of new roots, and less watering during the dormant period after flowering. Water once around 5 pm every day in spring and autumn. In summer, the plants grow vigorously, and water them once at 9 am and 5 pm every day. In winter, the light is weak and the temperature is low, so watering once every two weeks is enough, preferably before 10 am. In case of a cold wave, it is not advisable to water, keep it dry, and resume watering after the cold wave. The principle of watering is to see dry and wet. When the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water it thoroughly again, and the water temperature should be close to the room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, you can use a sprayer to spray directly on the leaves until the leaves are moist, but be careful not to spray the water mist on the flowers during the flowering period. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before it can be used for irrigation.
4. Light: Although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, it still needs to be exposed to some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Appropriate light can promote the flowering of Phalaenopsis and make the flowers bright and long-lasting. It should generally be placed in a place with scattered light indoors and avoid direct sunlight.
5. Ventilation: Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air for normal growth, so the ventilation of domestic Phalaenopsis must be good, especially in the high humidity period in summer. Good ventilation is necessary to prevent heatstroke and avoid infection by pests and diseases.
6. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis needs to be fertilized throughout the year. Unless the low temperature lasts for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period of Phalaenopsis. Stopping fertilization can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growing seasons. Thin liquid fertilizer can be applied every 7 to 10 days. Organic fertilizer is suitable. Phalaenopsis special nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply when there are flower buds, otherwise it is easy to fall buds early. In summer, when leaves grow (i.e. after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied. Phalaenopsis fertilizer can be used during the growth period of flower stems in autumn and winter, but it should be thin and applied about once every 2 to 3 weeks. The time for fertilization is after watering in the afternoon. After fertilizing several times, rinse the orchid pot and orchid plants with plenty of water to prevent residual inorganic salts from harming the roots.
7. Post-flowering management: The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last up to 2 to 3 months.
When the flowers wither, they must be cut off as soon as possible to reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stems are cut off at the 4th to 5th node from the base, they can bloom again after 2 to 3 months. However, this will consume too much nutrients for the plant, which is not conducive to its growth next year. If you want to bloom again next year, it is best to cut the flower stems from the base. When the substrate is aged, it should be replaced in time, otherwise the air permeability will deteriorate, which will cause root rot, weaken the plant growth or even kill it. It is generally advisable to change the pot in May when new leaves grow. _Four reasons for failure of home cultivation:
1. Over-frequent watering: Friends who grow Phalaenopsis are always worried about the lack of water for Phalaenopsis. Regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry or not, they water it every day, causing serious root rot.
2. Too low temperature: Phalaenopsis orchids usually bloom in early spring, and after being bought home, they are usually placed in the living room for appreciation. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the night temperature is a little low. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly grown in well-equipped greenhouses. In comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are a little insufficient, which often makes the growth of the plants weaker and weaker. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well the orchids are maintained, they still do not bloom.
3. Excessive fertilization: Apply fertilizer whenever there is one, and do not pay attention to the concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make the plant grow faster. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis should be fertilized with thin fertilizers, in small amounts and multiple times. Remember not to overdo the "tonic", otherwise it will be counterproductive.
4. Small plants in large pots: I think using a large pot can provide a relaxed environment for Phalaenopsis and sufficient materials. In fact, after using a large pot, the water plants are not easy to dry out. It should be noted that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, and it is comfortable when the air is ventilated.
When caring for Phalaenopsis at home, pay attention to the following points:
Temperature: To raise Phalaenopsis at home, the first thing to do is to ensure the temperature. Phalaenopsis is native to tropical areas and prefers a high temperature and high humidity environment. The minimum temperature during the growth period should be kept above 15°C. Phalaenopsis (especially white Phalaenopsis) grows well when the daytime temperature is 27°C and the nighttime temperature is kept at around 18°C. Attention should be paid to warming up at the turn of autumn and winter, winter and spring, and when the temperature is low in winter. Generally, this temperature is not difficult to achieve in rooms with heating equipment in winter, but be careful not to place the flowers directly on the radiator or too close to it. When the temperature is high in summer, it is necessary to cool down and pay attention to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32°C, Phalaenopsis will usually enter a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperature should be avoided. The flowering period is around the Spring Festival. Appropriate cooling can extend the viewing time. When flowering, the night temperature is best controlled between 13°C-16°C, but not lower than 13°C.
Water Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid. In its native place, most of them grow on tree trunks. Their roots are exposed to the air and can absorb moisture from the moist air. When cultivated artificially, the roots are buried in the cultivation medium. If watered too much, the aeration of the medium will deteriorate, the fleshy roots will rot, the leaves will generally turn yellow, and in severe cases, death will occur. The principle of watering is to water when the soil is dry and wet. When the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water it thoroughly again. Generally, watering should be done in the morning when it is clear and sunny, and the water temperature should be close to the room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, you can use a sprayer to spray directly on the leaves; but be careful not to spray the mist on the flowers during the flowering period.
Although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, it still needs to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Appropriate light can promote the flowering of Phalaenopsis and make the flowers bright and long-lasting. It should generally be placed in a place with scattered light indoors, and avoid direct sunlight. If placed on an indoor windowsill, use curtains to block some of the sunlight.
Phalaenopsis orchids are generally cultivated with water plants and mosses as the cultivation medium. The principle of fertilization should be to apply less fertilizer and light fertilizer. During the normal growth period, apply 2000 times of special fertilizer for orchids for root fertilization; depending on the growth situation, once every 2 to 3 weeks. Before flowering, 1000 to 2000 times of 15-30-15 water-soluble high-phosphorus fertilizer can be used, sprayed once every 10 days; stop fertilizing during the flowering period and in seasons with lower temperatures.
It takes about 2 years from seedling to flowering. The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can be as long as 2-3 months. When the flowers wither, they must be cut off as soon as possible to reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stems are cut off from the 4th to 5th nodes at the base, they can bloom again after 2-3 months. However, this will consume too much nutrients and is not conducive to growth next year. If you want to bloom again next year, it is best to cut the flower stems from the base. When the substrate is aged, it should be replaced in time, otherwise the air permeability will deteriorate, which will cause root rot, weaken plant growth or even death. It is generally advisable to change the pot in May when new leaves grow.
How to cultivate golden diamond
Loose soil: The cultivation of golden diamonds is not strict with soil. It is better to use sandy loam rich in humus and good drainage. Potted plants are generally made of peat and perlite. Golden diamonds like fertile, loose, well-drained slightly acidic soil. Potted plants can use leaf humus (or peat soil), garden soil and river sand as a mixture of equal amounts as a cultivation medium. When potting or repotting, pad some hoof horn slices or oil residue at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer. From the beginning of cultivating seedlings, attention should be paid to shaping, tying up the scattered branches and leaves, and loosening them after the branches and leaves grow well. Taking advantage of the phototropism of new leaves, rotate the flower pot frequently. You can choose a culture soil made of leaf humus or peat soil and a small amount of river sand. Do not apply too much fertilizer. Generally, apply 1 to 2 times of thin fertilizer water per month or apply long-term flower fertilizer once every month. Too much fertilizer will cause the petiole to be long, thin, soft, bent and drooping, affecting the ornamental effect. Stop fertilizing in winter. During the growing season, you can apply some thin liquid or long-lasting flower fertilizer every two months; too much fertilizer will cause the petiole to be thin, soft, bent and drooping, reducing the ornamental value. Apply less fertilizer or no fertilizer in winter.
Watering: The golden diamond plant originates from the tropical rain forest and likes a humid environment. The golden diamond plant has large leaves and requires a lot of water, so the soil in the pot should be kept moist during the growing period, especially in the high temperature period in summer. But don't water too much, as waterlogging in the pot soil can easily cause the roots of the golden diamond plant to rot and die.
Proper shading: The golden diamond is shade-tolerant and has no strict requirements on light, but if it is grown in a shaded environment for a long time, otherwise the leaves will become lighter, the petioles will become longer, the leaves will droop, and the ornamental value will be reduced. During maintenance, it is also necessary to avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will easily dry up at the tip, burn at the edge, turn white and lose their luster. Therefore, in order to ensure the healthy growth of the golden diamond, the potted plant should be placed in a semi-shaded or scattered light environment for maintenance.
Temperature and humidity should be appropriate
The golden diamond likes a warm climate. The temperature of the breeding needs to be kept at about 20℃ and not lower than 10℃. It is relatively cold-resistant and can survive the winter at about 20℃. The best wintering temperature is greater than 8℃, and the lowest temperature that can withstand is 5℃. It should also avoid heating, air conditioning and cold wind. The golden diamond is produced in tropical rainforests and has a relatively large demand for water. Generally, the air humidity is required to be maintained between 50~75%. If it is lower than 50%, the leaves will turn yellow and the edges will dry. The air humidity can be increased by spraying or sprinkling water.
It is best to water the Golden Diamond when the surface of the potting soil is dry. It can be kept moist during the high temperature period in summer. If the ambient temperature is below 15℃ in winter, alternating dry and wet watering is required.
Likes light but afraid of strong light
Golden Diamond likes light, but avoids strong direct sunlight. The best maintenance environment is semi-shaded or well-scattered light. It cannot be maintained in a shaded environment for a long time, otherwise the leaves will easily turn yellow. The light should not be too strong, lest the leaves become white and dull.
Fertilization: The golden diamond likes fertilizer. It needs to be provided with sufficient fertilizer during the vigorous growth period. It is better to use nitrogen fertilizer as the main fertilizer. At the same time, pay attention to not applying too much fertilizer at one time. It is best to apply thin fertilizer frequently. Usually pay attention to the growth of the golden diamond and fertilize it reasonably. If the leaves turn yellow due to lack of fertilizer, nitrogen fertilizer should be added in time. After entering autumn, pay attention to controlling the amount of fertilizer to facilitate wintering. When the temperature is below 20℃, stop fertilizing.
Diamond is not very demanding on light, and can generally grow well except in extremely weak light environments. It is particularly suitable for indoor cultivation; but in summer and autumn, avoid direct sunlight to avoid burning the leaves. When maintaining the golden diamond indoors, the pot should be placed in a place with bright scattered light, and the lighting should be uniform. The pot direction should be changed regularly to avoid the crown of the plant being skewed.
Pruning: After a period of cultivation, the leaves of the golden diamond will turn yellow and burn. If improper maintenance or pests and diseases are excluded, it can be determined that it is the normal metabolism of the golden diamond and the old leaves need to be pruned in time. When pruning, cut off the yellow leaves, overcrowded and lean branches to reduce the loss of nutrients in the plant. When pruning, pay attention to using sharp tools to reduce plant wounds.
Modeling method: Golden Diamond grows fast. If you adjust the water, fertilizer, light and humidity, it can grow 3-5 leaves a year. During the growth process, the petioles are supported and tied according to their length. Generally, the petioles that grow first are short, and the petioles that grow later are long. They can be arranged at any time, that is, short petioles and short petioles, long petioles and long petioles are connected in series, so that the leaves are connected in more than two horizontal planes, each layer is like an umbrella, and the crown of the plant is like a tower as a whole. After a simple combination of petioles and leaf shapes, its ornamental effect can be icing on the cake. Or use the principle of phototropism of new leaves. Whenever a new leaf grows, turn the flower pot so that the palm of the new leaf faces the light source, so that the petiole grows toward the center and upward, and does not grow loosely around, thus breeding a pot of Golden Diamond with a compact plant shape and chic and pleasant.
Precautions
(1) In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 10°C and not lower than 5°C. Otherwise, the leaves will easily develop damaged patches, turn yellow and fall off, reducing their ornamental value. When the room temperature is low in winter, watering should be controlled and fertilization should be stopped.
(2) Midsummer is the peak growth period for the golden diamond, which requires high air humidity and sufficient water, which is very beneficial to its growth. The principle of watering at this time is to keep the soil moist without stagnant water. Spray water on the leaves more often; the principle of watering in winter is to keep it dry rather than wet. At this time, the golden diamond is in a dormant period. If it is watered too much, the roots will rot easily, resulting in slow growth or even cessation of growth.
(3) When the weather turns cooler in autumn, the plant can be placed in a bright and warm place for maintenance, and watering should be controlled. If the plant is wet for a long time and the temperature is low, the leaves will turn yellow easily. In severe cases, the roots will rot and the plant will die.
(4) Diamondwood prefers sufficient diffuse light and avoids strong sunlight in summer. When the sun is strong in summer and autumn, it needs to be properly shaded. If it is kept in the shade for too long, it needs to be regularly moved to a place with sufficient light, otherwise the leaves will not grow well and will easily turn yellow and wither. Diamondwood likes moisture. During the growing season, the soil needs to be kept moist. Water needs to be added every day, and the leaves need to be sprayed frequently to clean the leaves and create a good microclimate.
Reproduction method
The main method of propagation of the golden diamond is cutting. In spring, select strong branches and cut them off, about 12 to 15 cm long, and insert them into a flower pot filled with clam stones or river sand, with a depth of 4 to 6 cm. Water them thoroughly at one time until water flows out of the holes at the bottom of the flower pot, and spray water on the leaves and around them 2 to 3 times a day to keep the air moist. The ambient temperature is controlled at around 22°C, and roots and sprouts will take place after about 4 weeks.
Golden Diamond can also be propagated by division, usually from May to July. Use a knife to cut off the small plants growing from the base of the plant and plant them in a pot with new soil. Pay attention to shaping from the beginning of cultivating the seedlings, tie up the scattered leaves, and gradually loosen them after the leaves grow well to prevent them from spreading too much and taking up too much space, which can also increase their ornamental value.
Alias: Coconut tree, arborvitae, alder tree, mountain fir, sugar chicken, boatman tree, Baofang, iron armor tree, pig liver tree, large-fruited bamboo cypress, large-leaf sandwood, lard wood . It is a tree of the genus Bamboo Cypress in the Podocarpaceae family.
Distribution: Produced in Zhejiang, Fujian, Jiangxi, Sichuan, Guangdong, Guangxi, Hunan and other provinces.
Habits: It likes warm and humid climates. It is mostly distributed in areas with an annual average temperature of 18~26℃, an extreme minimum temperature of -7℃, but an average temperature of 6~20℃ in January and an annual rainfall of 1200~1800mm. Bamboo cypress is a shade-loving tree species. In Guangxi, bamboo cypress growing on shady slopes has been seen to grow several times faster than those growing on sunny slopes. Bamboo cypress has strict requirements on soil. It grows well on deep, acidic sandy loam or light clay loam with good drainage, moisture and rich humus, but grows very poorly on shallow, dry and barren land, and is not distributed in lime areas. In nature, it grows well on the downhill slopes and valleys of mountains rich in humus and relatively moist, but grows very slowly on drier terraces and cannot grow in waterlogged areas. It has good natural regeneration ability. Naturally sown seedlings can often be seen in bamboo cypress forests and under other broad-leaved forests. The seedlings grow slowly at the beginning, and gradually become faster after 4 or 5 years. Generally, a 10-year-old plant can be more than 5 meters tall, with a breast diameter of about 8 to 10 cm. It can begin to bloom and bear fruit around the 10th year.
Reproduction and cultivation: Propagation by sowing and cutting. The weight of 1,000 seeds is about 500g. The seeds are oily and should not be stored for a long time. It is best to sow them immediately after harvesting. The germination rate can reach more than 90%. Also, avoid exposure to the sun. Only 3 days of exposure to strong light can completely lose the ability to germinate. Generally, 15kg of seeds are required for every 666 m2, which can produce about 20,000 seedlings. A shade shed should be set up during the seedling stage, and the height of the seedlings can reach 25 cm in the same year. When large-scale mountain greening is carried out, two-year-old seedlings about half a meter high can be planted bare-root in January and February when they have not sprouted. Bamboo cypress is not tolerant to pruning.
Ornamental characteristics and garden uses: The branches and leaves of bamboo cypress are verdant and shiny, the crown is dense, and the tree shape is beautiful. It is a good shade tree for gardens in the south and a street tree in gardens. It is also an excellent tree species for greening urban and rural areas.
Peperomia scabra
It is very easy to adapt to the water environment, will not rot, and is easy to plant. It likes a warm and humid semi-shady environment, is not resistant to high temperatures, avoids direct sunlight, is drought-resistant, and should not be watered too much, especially in autumn and winter, watering should be reduced. If the air is dry, you can spray more water on the leaves, and avoid frost. The cultivation medium of the evergreen requires an organic medium with good air permeability and good water retention, such as peat soil plus perlite or vermiculite, with a ratio of about 6:1. Avoid excessive moisture in the cultivation medium, and generally keep the moisture content of the cultivation medium at 40-60%. It is usually placed in a bright indoor or open-air shaded place, with an optimum temperature of 20-26℃, and a winter temperature of more than 5℃. Spray water on the leaves frequently to maintain a high air humidity. It can also be properly pruned or transplanted in the courtyard for viewing after a period of maintenance.
The Chinese evergreen is afraid of direct sunlight, so it needs to be placed in a semi-shaded place for maintenance, or shaded by 70%. If it is placed indoors, try to place it in a bright place, and move it to a semi-shaded place or shaded place outdoors for a month every one or two months to allow it to accumulate nutrients and resume growth. The Chinese evergreen requires a lot of fertilizer and water, but it is most afraid of random fertilization, concentrated fertilizer, and partial nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers. It requires the fertilization principle of "light fertilizer, frequent application, small amount, and frequent application, and complete nutrition".
In winter, the Chinese evergreen should be watered less frequently. Avoid using too cold water. It is best to keep the water temperature close to room temperature. From May to September, fertilizer can be applied every 2 to 3 weeks. In spring and summer, potted plants should be placed in semi-shaded areas. In winter, they can be placed in sunny areas, but continuous direct sunlight should be avoided. The wintering temperature should not be lower than 10°C. In order to keep the leaves green, generally, the pots should be changed or renewed every 2 to 3 years. When the plant is about 10 cm tall, it can be appropriately pinched to promote the germination of side branches and keep the plant plump.
Summer precautions
1. Enhance air convection so that the temperature inside the plant can be dissipated. 2. Place it in semi-shaded area, or shade it by 50%. 3. Spray it appropriately, 2 to 3 times a day.
Winter precautions
1. Move it to a bright place indoors for maintenance. 2. Outdoors, you can wrap it with film to overwinter, but you need to uncover the film every two days at noon when the temperature is higher to let it breathe.
Azalea
Rhododendron, also known as azalea and mountain pomegranate, is an evergreen or ordinary green shrub. In ancient times, it was said that there was a cuckoo bird that cried day and night and coughed up blood, thus dyeing the flowers all over the mountain red, so it was called azalea. Rhododendrons usually bloom in spring, with 2-6 flowers in each cluster. The shape of the corolla is funnel-shaped, and the colors are red, light red, apricot red, snow blue, white, etc. The color is very lush and gorgeous. It usually grows in mountain sparse shrubs or pine forests at an altitude of 500-1200m. It is a typical acid indicator plant in central, southern and southwestern China. Its plants have good medicinal value, can promote qi and blood circulation, and replenish deficiency. It has a good effect on diseases such as internal injury cough, kidney deficiency deafness, irregular menstruation, rheumatism, etc. In view of such a good effect, very good people want to cultivate azaleas. Now I will introduce to you the cultivation method of azaleas and detail the precautions in the cultivation process.
What are the cultivation methods and precautions for potted azaleas?
1. Selection of flower pots for azalea cultivation
1. Pot quality requirements: clay pots, plastic pots, porcelain pots, ceramic pots, etc. can be used. 2. Pot size: The pot size for planting azalea seedlings should be consistent with the crown diameter of the seedlings; the pot size for planting azalea seedlings should be 3/4 of its crown diameter; the pot size for azalea seedlings should be 1/2 of its crown diameter.
2. Preparation of potting soil for azalea cultivation
Azalea prefers acidic (PH value 4.5-5.5), loose, well-drained soil. Avoid alkaline soil containing lime and clay soil. The following formula can be used for home cultivation: Belgian azalea: leaf mold: peat soil: sand = 5:2:3; Spring and summer azalea: garden soil: peat soil: sand = 3:5:2. Add appropriate amount of bone meal and stir evenly.
3. Temperature and light requirements for azalea cultivation
Potted azaleas are usually potted in spring from March to April, and can also be potted in autumn. When potting, they need to be transplanted with soil, and after planting, they need to be watered thoroughly and placed in a shaded place.
Potted azaleas in the north are generally moved indoors in early to mid-October to overwinter, and placed in a sunny place after entering the room. At the beginning of the room, you should pay attention to opening windows frequently for ventilation. The room temperature in winter should be around 10℃, not too high, otherwise, the physiological activities of the plants will be strengthened, and a large amount of nutrients will be consumed, affecting flowering and growth in the next year; at the same time, sufficient light should be given. Move out of the room after mid-to-late April of the following year. At this time, the sunlight is softer, and appropriate shade should be provided around noon. After summer, it must be moved to a cool and ventilated place for maintenance. Because azaleas are negative flowers, they need to be maintained under the shade in spring, summer and autumn. Especially in summer, they are exposed to the sun for a long time, which can easily cause the branches and leaves to turn yellow, growth to stagnate, and the whole plant to die. In autumn, the daily light exposure time should be gradually extended, and the shading should be stopped at the end of autumn.
4. Watering method for azalea cultivation
Keep the potting soil moist during the growing season. The water demand is higher during the flowering period from April to June. In the hot season from July to August, you need to spray water on the ground and leaves to keep the air moist. After September, the temperature gradually cools down and the moisture content of the potting soil should be gradually reduced. It enters a dormant period in winter and should be watered less.
Since the roots of azalea are shallow, they are afraid of both drought and waterlogging. Improper watering can cause the leaves to fall or even die. Therefore, watering is one of the key measures to keep azaleas well. Watering should be based on the season and growth period of the plant. In the spring bud formation and flowering period, water consumption is high, so watering should be timely. If the pot is dehydrated, the flowers will wither and the flowering period will be shortened. It is advisable to keep the pot soil moist during this period. In summer, the branches and leaves of azaleas grow vigorously, the temperature is high, and the water evaporates quickly. In addition to watering once a day, water should be added at any time. If there is a slight negligence, the pot soil will be too dry, which will cause the leaves to turn yellow, the leaf heart to curl, and even dry up and die.
Since azalea likes moisture, in summer, you should spray the leaves with clean water and sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pot to increase air humidity and reduce temperature. In autumn, flower buds have formed, the temperature is gradually decreasing, and the weather is getting cooler. At this time, keep the pot soil moist. In winter, the temperature is low and the azalea is dormant or semi-dormant, consuming less water. Therefore, watering should be strictly controlled. Too much water will easily cause root rot. However, during this period, the branches and leaves should be sprayed with clean water close to room temperature every 5 to 7 days to keep the plants fresh. When watering azaleas, pay attention to the quality of water. It is more appropriate to use rainwater. If you use tap water, you must store it in a container for 1 to 2 days before using it.
5. Fertilization method for azalea cultivation
Rhododendron has shallow and thin roots and weak absorption capacity, so when applying fertilizer, you must follow the principle of "thin fertilizer and frequent application". If the fertilizer is too concentrated or raw fertilizer that is not fully decomposed is applied, it is easy to cause root rot, leaf scorch and even death. Especially for 1-2 year old seedlings, you must pay more attention to the amount of fertilizer, otherwise it is easy to cause fertilizer damage.
In February and March before the spring azalea blooms, liquid fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus should be applied every 10 to 15 days to promote large and colorful flowers; in March and April, the same fertilizer should be applied to the summer azalea to make the flowers large, with good color, thick petals and long flowering period. Fertilization should be stopped during the flowering period, otherwise the flowers will fall and grow leaves, affecting the ornamental effect; after the flowers fade, nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied every 10 days or so to promote new branches. After late July, it is the period of flower bud differentiation of azalea, and liquid fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus should be applied every 10 to 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation. No fertilizer is needed during the winter dormancy period, and topdressing should be stopped.
6. Pruning methods for azalea cultivation
Rhododendrons have strong germination ability and many dense branches. After flowering, the dense branches, weak branches, dead branches, diseased branches, broken branches, crossed branches, and long branches should be cut off to facilitate ventilation and light transmission. Do not cut short the branches that remain. Because the leaves of rhododendrons are mostly clustered at the top of the branches, after flowering, a new branch will be drawn out and a cluster of new leaves will grow, and the old leaves will fall off immediately. Then the top buds will begin to differentiate into flower buds and become the flower branches of the next year. If this branch is cut off, the number of flowers will be affected in the following year.
7. Precautions for azalea cultivation
1. Azalea is a typical flower that grows in acidic soil. To prevent yellowing, 0.2% ferrous sulfate should be applied once every 20 days or so. If the leaves turn yellow, spray 0.2% ferrous sulfate water directly on the leaves to turn the leaves from yellow to green.
2. For home flower cultivation, if you want azalea to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can break its dormancy period. Move the budded azalea indoors to a sunny place in mid-December, keep the room temperature above 5℃, apply thin fertilizer every 10 to 15 days, water the pot soil when it is dry, and spray water on the leaves frequently to increase humidity, so that it can bloom before the Spring Festival.
3. Azaleas grow slowly, so they can be repotted every two years. Repotting should be done after the flowers have faded. When repotting, new culture soil should be added. Generally, the culture soil is a mixture of 8 parts leaf mold (peat soil), 1 part garden soil, and 1 part river sand, and a small amount (about 50 grams per pot) of decomposed oil residue or chicken manure is added as base fertilizer.
4. During the growth period of azalea, adventitious buds often sprout on the stems and branches. They should be removed in time to avoid disturbing the plant shape. After bud formation, if there are too many buds, the excess buds should be removed, leaving only one bud on each branch to concentrate nutrients and promote large and colorful flowers. After azalea blooms, the remaining flowers are not easy to fall off. In order to reduce nutrient consumption, the remaining flowers should be removed in time to promote the germination of new buds.
5. Breeding methods of azalea cultivation
Azalea can be propagated by cuttings, grafting and layering, with cuttings being the main method. For large-scale propagation, full-light cutting seedling raising can be used, which has fast rooting and high survival rate; for small-scale propagation, it can be inserted into flower pots. Cuttings are carried out in early summer and early autumn, and shade and moisturize are provided after cutting.
Cutting medium, 3 parts leaf humus, 1 part garden soil, 6 parts river sand, or 5 parts leaf humus, 5 parts river sand (or pure sand). Cuttings should be selected from one-year-old branches with short internodes, strong growth, no pests and diseases, and lignified base. The cuttings should be 6 to 10 cm long. Put medical vitamin B12 at the base of the cuttings before cutting. Dip it in the liquid medicine, take it out and let it dry for 2 to 3 minutes. It will take root about 10 days earlier, and it will take root more and grow faster.
When cutting, first use chopsticks or a thin wooden stick to poke a hole in the substrate, then insert the cutting, gently compact it with your hands, and spray it with water so that the base of the cutting is tightly combined with the soil. After cutting, cover the flower pot with a plastic bag, tie it tightly with a thin rope around it, and place it in a shady place; spray water once in the morning and evening every day, stop spraying water after a week, and just keep the pot soil moist regularly; keep it shaded for one month, and gradually accept scattered light after germination; keep the temperature at 18℃~25℃. Generally, cuttings of various varieties can take root 40 to 60 days after cutting.
When growing flowers at home, in order to make them bloom earlier, you can also use the high branch layering method to propagate them. That is, in March, select 2-3 year old strong branches for ring barking, cover them with plastic bags, put leaf mold in the bags, keep them moist at a temperature of about 20-25 degrees Celsius, and they will take root after about 5-6 months, and they will bloom in the spring of the second year.
Aglaonema
Farming methods
1. Sunlight: Aspidistra grows wild under evergreen broad-leaved forests or beside rocks in streams. Avoid dryness and direct sunlight. 2. Temperature: It likes warmth and is highly adaptable. The leaves of potted plants remain green at a low temperature of 0°C and weak light. 3. Soil: It requires loose and well-drained soil. 4. Water: It is suitable for growing in a humid environment. 5. Light fertilizer: If the air is too dry, it is easy to cause the edges and tips of the leaves to burn. Apply thin liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote the healthy growth of new leaves. 6. Watering: During the growth period, it should be fully watered and sprayed with water on the leaves frequently to maintain a high air humidity. 7. Light: Avoid direct sunlight in summer. It can be placed in a cool place outdoors or a bright place indoors. Pay attention to ventilation and remove yellow leaves in time. 8. Reproduction: The main method is division, which is usually combined with repotting in spring when the temperature begins to rise and before new buds sprout.
Precautions
1. Water the Aspidistra plant sufficiently during its growing season. Keep the soil in the pot moist and spray water on the leaves frequently to increase humidity. This can help with budding and growth . However, be careful not to allow the soil to become waterlogged, otherwise the rhizomes of the Aspidistra plant will easily rot. Reduce watering appropriately after late autumn. 2. Apply liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times a month during the vigorous growth period in spring and summer to ensure that the leaves are beautiful and bright. It can be cultivated in a bright room all year round, but whether outdoors or indoors, it should not be placed in direct sunlight. Short-term exposure to sunlight may also cause leaf burns, reducing its ornamental value.
The leaves of Aspidistra are dark green and elegant. It can absorb formaldehyde, and has a certain absorption effect on carbon dioxide and hydrogen fluoride. It can also absorb dust and is not prone to diseases and pests. It is an excellent ornamental plant for indoor greening decoration and is suitable for home office layout.
Money Tree
Cultivation method: You can't just rely on how to raise a fortune tree when you buy it home. You should also be careful when buying it, because most fortune trees are cuttage, and the root system of the fortune tree is not well developed, so many potted fortune trees have signs of rot at the roots. In addition, most flower lovers are used to watering the flowers they buy home, so the rot is even worse. Moreover, because the fortune tree can temporarily rely on the trunk to obtain nutrients, even if the roots are rotten, it will not be immediately obvious, and it will be too late when it is discovered. Therefore, when buying a fortune tree, you must choose one with healthy roots.
The fortune tree is not tolerant to water, and its root system is not well developed, so if the roots are damp for a long time, it may cause root rot. Therefore, it is recommended that flower lovers should first know whether the soil they use can evaporate the water quickly before watering. Some soils are basically dry in the evening after watering in the morning, but some soils are still moist after watering for half a month or even a month. In addition, some pots are deep, so flower lovers can easily continue to water them after half a month, and then water will gradually accumulate. There is no rule for watering every few days. You must water according to the actual situation. Lack of water will not kill the plant immediately, and it can still be saved. If it accumulates water, it cannot be saved.
As for fertilization, the money tree has a plump plant, large leaves, and vigorous growth, so it requires a large amount of fertilizer. In addition to requiring fertile growing soil, all forms of topdressing should be stopped in winter to prevent fertilizer damage to the roots, which may cause the leaves to turn yellow or dry up and fall off. Otherwise, it will be difficult to restore the plant's original appearance.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for the money tree is 16-18℃. It can grow well in warmer places if the humidity is sufficient. If the temperature drops below 30℃, the plant may shed its leaves. The minimum temperature in winter needs to be maintained at 15-18℃. Below this temperature, the leaves turn yellow and fall off; below 10℃, it is easy to die.
Light: The fortune tree is a strong sun-loving plant and is planted outdoors in Guangdong and other places. However, the small fortune tree has a strong tolerance to shade and can be enjoyed in a weak light indoors for 2-4 weeks. Then put it in a place with strong light.
Watering: During the period of vigorous growth of the fortune tree, the pot soil should be thoroughly moistened, and watering can be done again after the topsoil is dry. During the dormant period, just keep the pot soil from completely drying out.
Fertilization: Apply standard liquid fertilizer once every half a month during the vigorous growth period of the money tree.
Cultivation and repotting: The fortune tree is planted in soil culture soil. Repotting should be done in early spring every year. If repotting is inconvenient, topdressing should be done once a year.
Reproduction: The fortune tree is generally propagated by seeds, but the seeds must be fresh and heated at the bottom to germinate. Therefore, it is not advisable to try it at home.
Precautions
1. Pay attention to ventilation. 2. Avoid sunlight (diffuse light is best). 3. Watering should be determined according to the pot, soil, dryness and wetness, not by time. 4. Pay attention to thin fertilizer when applying fertilizer. 5. Control your hands. Don't change the position of the money tree for no reason. Water it.
Dieffenbachia guangdongensis
It likes a semi-shaded, warm, humid, well-ventilated environment; avoid direct sunlight and waterlogging. It can be cultivated in general garden soil, but sandy loam rich in humus, loose and permeable is best.
It likes high temperature and humidity, and is extremely shade-tolerant. It should be cultivated under shade in summer. It should be watered every day during the hot season, and the leaves should be sprayed. Even if it is placed indoors in dim light, it will not grow too long. It starts to grow when the temperature is above 15 degrees. It should be kept above 4 degrees during the winter, and watered less. A slightly dry pot soil can improve its cold resistance. During the growth period, it is advisable to apply liquid fertilizer containing chlorine and potassium, and fertilize once a month. It can be potted for viewing, or you can use a glass bottle to hold water and put the plant in hydroponics. This hydroponics is cleaner, more convenient, and more interesting. Its stems are often used for reproduction. Cut into 3-5 cm sections, dip the incision in plant ash, dry it, and insert it into a sand bed. It usually takes 15-20 days to root. It can also be cut and divided directly.
It likes a humid environment and is afraid of direct sunlight. It can be placed in a shaded place for growth all year round. The leaves will turn white and then yellow after being exposed to the sun for a short period of time. The suitable temperature for growth is 20-28℃. It is not cold-resistant and needs to be kept above 8℃ in winter. If the temperature is too low, it is susceptible to frost damage. Once the leaves fall, they will die. In the hot summer season, it needs to be watered once in the morning and evening every day. In addition, water should be sprayed on the surrounding ground to increase the air humidity. In spring and autumn, watering should be done when the soil is dry and wet. In winter, watering should be restrained. If the pot soil is too wet at this time, the leaves will turn yellow and cause root rot. The pot soil cannot be too dry during the growth period, otherwise the lack of water will easily cause the leaves to wither and fall. In spring and autumn, apply liquid fertilizer containing more nitrogen and potassium every 15-20 days. Fertilization should generally be stopped in midsummer.
It likes loose, fertile, well-drained cultivation substrates and is not tolerant to salt and alkali. The potting soil can be mixed with leaf humus, garden soil and a small amount of river sand. Generally, the pot is changed every 1 to 2 years. The mother plant that has grown for many years is often in a creeping state and has a poor posture. It should be re-cut and renewed. Division and cutting methods are commonly used. The temperature for cutting rooting is 25-30℃, and the relative humidity is maintained at about 80%. It will take about 1 month to take root. The potting soil is a mixture of 3 parts leaf humus, 1 part loam, and 1 part coarse sand, and an appropriate amount of base fertilizer is added. During the growth period, keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity high, so that the air humidity is not less than 40%. Pay attention to shading in summer, apply thin acidic fertilizer water once every 2 weeks, and the temperature in the greenhouse is not less than 10℃ in winter. Repot once every spring depending on the size of the plant.
Propagated by cuttings, very easy to root, can also be divided. Water with room temperature (soft water); water more in spring and summer, less in autumn and winter. Apply a thin (low dose) fertilizer once every two weeks from March to August. Keep the potting soil warm and try to provide indirect humidity; but do not spray too much to avoid leaf spot. Repot the young plants every year with general potting soil, and the adult plants depend on the situation.
Reproduction
Division propagation: It should be carried out in spring when repotting. Take the plant out of the pot, cut off the rhizome at the base of the stem, and apply plant ash to prevent rot, or leave it for half a day until the cut is dry before potting. Do not water too much after planting.
Cutting propagation: Spring and summer are the best time. Select 12-15 cm long, strong tender stems as cuttings, keep the top 2 leaves, insert into the sand bed, maintain a high air humidity, room temperature 25-30℃, and roots will grow 20-28 days after cutting. It can also be cut with water. The scion can be slightly longer, preferably 15-20 cm, and directly inserted into a glass bottle filled with clean water. Change the water once every 2 days. New roots will grow in about 15-20 days, and potted when the root length is 3-4 cm.
At the same time, in industrial production, the stem nodes of the bright silk grass are cut into small pieces, but the internodes must be included, wrapped with fresh sphagnum moss and placed in a seedling box, kept at a room temperature of 20-25°C, and roots and sprouts will take about 20-25 days from the stem nodes. In the place of origin, seeds are used for propagation, and germination requires high temperatures of 25-28°C, with a high germination rate.
Temperature: The optimum temperature for rooting of cuttings is 18℃～25℃. If it is lower than 18℃, rooting of cuttings is difficult and slow; if it is higher than 25℃, the cut ends of cuttings are easily infected by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the rot rate. When low temperature is encountered after cuttings, the main measure for heat preservation is to wrap the flower pots or containers used for cuttings with film; when the temperature is too high after cuttings, the main measure for cooling is to shade the cuttings, blocking 50-80% of the sunlight, and at the same time, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, spray more frequently, and on rainy days with lower temperatures and higher temperatures, spray less frequently or not at all.
Humidity: After cutting, the relative humidity of the air must be maintained at 75-85%. Humidity can be increased by spraying the cuttings 1-3 times a day. The higher the temperature on sunny days, the more times you spray. The lower the temperature on rainy days, the less or no spraying is needed. However, excessive spraying can easily cause the cuttings to be infected by pathogens and rot, because many types of pathogens exist in water.
Light: Cutting propagation cannot be separated from sunlight. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cuttings, the more water is consumed, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cuttings, the sunlight must be blocked by 50-80%.
Potting: When potting the seedlings, first put a 2 to 2 cm thick coarse-grained substrate or expanded clay at the bottom of the pot as a water filter layer, and sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, about 1 to 2 cm thick, then cover with a layer of substrate, about 1 to 2 cm thick, and then put the plants in to separate the fertilizer from the roots to avoid root burn.
Substrate for potting: You can choose one of the following garden soil: slag = 3: 1; or garden soil: medium coarse river sand: sawdust (vegetable residue) = 4: 1: 2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, and leaf humus. Or peat + perlite + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part garden soil + slag = 3 parts + 1 part peat + slag + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part sawdust + vermiculite + medium coarse river sand = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part water thoroughly after potting, and place in a shaded environment for maintenance.
Humidity management: It prefers a humid climate environment and requires the relative air temperature of the growing environment to be between 60 and 75%.
Temperature management: The optimum growth temperature is 18℃ ~ 30℃. Avoid cold and frost. The wintering temperature needs to be kept above 10℃. It will enter a dormant state when the temperature drops below 4℃ in winter. If the ambient temperature is close to 0℃, it will die due to frostbite.
summer
1. Enhance air convection so that the temperature in its body can be dissipated; 2. Place it in semi-shade, or give it 50% shade; 3. Spray it appropriately, 2 to 3 times a day.
winter
1. Move it to a bright place indoors for maintenance; 2. Outdoors, you can wrap it with film to overwinter, but you need to uncover the film every two days at noon when the temperature is higher to let it breathe;
Light management: Afraid of direct sunlight, it needs to be placed in semi-shade for maintenance, or shaded by 70%. If it is placed indoors, try to place it in a bright place, and move it to semi-shade or shaded outdoors for one month every one or two months to allow it to accumulate nutrients and resume growth.
Fertilizer and water management: There are many requirements for fertilizer and water, but the most feared are random fertilization, concentrated fertilizer, and partial application of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers. It is required to follow the fertilization (water) principle of "light fertilizer, frequent application, small amount, frequent application, and complete nutrition":
Spring, summer, and autumn
These two seasons are its peak growth seasons. Fertilizer and water management should be circulated in the order of "Huabao" - "Huabao" - clean water - "Huabao" - "Huabao" - clean water (at least "Huabao" should be guaranteed twice a week). The interval period is approximately: 1 to 4 days for outdoor maintenance, shorter intervals during sunny days or high temperatures, longer intervals or no watering during rainy days or low temperatures; 2 to 6 days for indoor maintenance, shorter intervals during sunny days or high temperatures, longer intervals or no watering during rainy days or low temperatures. Try to arrange watering in the morning when the temperature is lower.
In summer, water the plants in the morning or evening when the temperature is low, and mist the plants frequently.
In winter, during the dormant period, the main thing is to control fertilizer and water. Fertilizer and water management should be circulated in the order of "Huabao" - clean water - clean water - "Huabao" - clean water - clean water, with an interval of about 7 to 10 days. The interval is shorter on sunny days or high temperatures, and longer or no watering on rainy days or low temperatures. Try to arrange watering at noon on sunny days when the temperature is higher.
Guangdong Evergreen can also be hydroponically cultivated. Cut the stem segments and insert them into water. After rooting, continue to cultivate them in a water bottle, or remove the potted plants from the pots, wash the soil on the roots, and then soak them in a transparent glass vase. Change the water every 2 to 3 days, and change the nutrient solution every 10 days. You can also use 1/2 potassium dihydrogen phosphate and ammonium sulfate, add 1000 to 1500 times of water and dilute them before use.
For potted Dieffenbachia, it is advisable to use sandy loam rich in humus as the culture soil. The pH value of the soil is between 6-6.5, which is more conducive to giving full play to the effectiveness of nutrients and suitable for the plant to bloom and bear fruit. Repot once every March-April or October-November. When repotting, remove the aging rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in acidic cultivation soil with fertilizer. After potting, place it in the shade for a few days. The key points of Dieffenbachia cultivation are: warm, humid and semi-shaded. In summer, it grows vigorously and needs to be placed in a shaded place to avoid strong light exposure, otherwise, it is easy to cause the leaves to dry and burn, affecting the ornamental effect. Dieffenbachia has a fleshy root system and is most afraid of waterlogging. Therefore, it cannot be watered too much, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot. It is enough to water the pot soil with an appropriate amount of water at ordinary times. It is necessary to make sure that the pot soil is not dry and not watered. It is better to be dry than too wet. In addition to keeping the pot soil moist in summer, watering should not be too frequent in spring and autumn. In summer, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also, care should be taken to prevent heavy rain.
During the growth period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer every 20 days or so; in early summer, when the growth is vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer every 10 days or so, and add a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate to the topdressing, which can promote better growth and bright green leaves. In June and July, when the flowering is vigorous, apply 0.2% dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution every 15 days or so to promote flower bud differentiation, so as to facilitate better flowering and fruiting. Avoid rain during the flowering period and place it in a shaded, dry, ventilated place that is not exposed to rain.
In winter, the Dieffenbachia needs to be moved indoors and placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place with a temperature of 6-18 degrees. If the room temperature is too high, it will easily cause the leaves to grow too long and consume a lot of nutrients, resulting in weak growth the following year and affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If the tips of the Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow or even the whole plant withers in winter, it is mainly because the roots cannot absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, the air should be kept moist and the pot soil slightly moist in winter. Generally, it is advisable to water 1-2 times a week. In addition, the leaves should be sprayed with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and green all year round.
Pest and disease control
During its growth period, evergreen is susceptible to damage such as leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, and brown scale.
(1) Leaf spot. This disease occurs on the leaves of evergreens and is more likely to occur in humid weather. The lesions are initially small brown spots, with the edges fading to green as if soaked in water and expanding in a ring-like pattern. They are round to oval in shape, with brown edges and grayish white inside. In the later stage, dark brown mold spots appear in the center of the lesions, which turn into a dark brown mold layer under humid conditions. The method of preventing and controlling this disease is to remove diseased and damaged leaves in a timely manner; 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 1000 times diluted 50% carbendazim) can be sprayed in the early or late stages of the disease.
(2) Anthracnose. This disease also occurs on the leaves of evergreens, and can spread to the petioles in severe cases. The lesions are initially small water-soaked yellow spots, which expand to oval to irregular brown or yellowish brown with slightly ring-shaped patterns. In the later stage, the lesions become connected and dry, and small black spots arranged in rings appear. This disease is mainly caused by poor ventilation, and the occurrence of the disease is favorable when there are scale insects. The method of preventing and controlling this disease is to strengthen maintenance and increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; in the early stage of the disease, 0.3%-0.5% equal-volume Bordeaux mixture (or 800-900 times diluted 60% mancozeb, or 1500 times diluted 70% thiophanate) can be sprayed.
(3) Brown Soft Scale. This insect has a complex diet and can harm many plants. Dieffenbachia is one of the flowers that are harmed. When brown soft scale harms plants, it usually gathers on the leaves or tender leaves, sucking the plant's sap and excreting mucus. Its excrement can easily cause the sooty mold bacteria to multiply in large numbers, causing the stems and leaves to turn black, affecting the photosynthesis of the plant, resulting in weak growth, withered leaves, and hindering the viewing experience. In severe cases, the branches and stems are covered with insect bodies, causing the plant to wither and turn yellow, affecting growth.
Prevention and treatment methods
① If there are few affected plants or the number of insects is small, you can usually scrape the insect bodies with bamboo strips or other objects; ② During the hatching period of nymphs, you can spray them with 1000 times diluted 40% Dimethoate EC (or 1000 times diluted 40% Oxymethoate EC), or you can spray them with 1000 times diluted 5% Phosmet EC to kill them.
Money Tree
Introduction to the habits of money tree
Money tree is native to the tropical (savannah) climate zone with less rainfall in eastern Africa. It likes warm, slightly dry, semi-shady and small annual temperature changes. It is relatively drought-resistant, but afraid of cold, strong sunlight, heavy soil and water accumulation in the pot soil. If the pot soil is not permeable, it is easy to cause its tuber to rot. It requires loose and fertile soil, good drainage, rich in organic matter, acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong germination ability. After cutting off the thick compound leaves, the top of the tuber will quickly grow new leaves.
Causes and treatment methods of root rot in money tree
Most of the failures in the cultivation of money trees are caused by root rot. Generally, the root rot of money trees is caused by watering. It is necessary to pour the plants out of the pots in time, shake off some of the old soil, place them in a semi-shaded and cool place to dry for 1-2 days, and then replace them with new sandy loam for planting. In the future, the pots should not be too large, and watering should not be too frequent. Watering should be done when the pot soil is 70% dry. There should be no rigid watering intervals, and watering should be flexible. If the root rot is serious, it is best to shake out all the soil, then soak it in 500 times potassium permanganate or carbendazim solution for 5-10 minutes, then rinse it with clean water, and then dry it until the roots are dry, and then replant it.
Daily care tips for money tree
Temperature: The optimum temperature for the growth of money tree is 20-32℃. Whether it is potted or planted in the ground, the annual average temperature change is required to be small. Productive cultivation is best carried out in a temperature-controlled greenhouse. Every summer, when the temperature reaches above 35℃, the plant growth is poor. Measures such as covering with black nets to block light and spraying water on the surrounding environment should be taken to cool it down, so as to create a suitable environment with suitable space temperature and relatively dry. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10℃. If the room temperature is lower than 5℃, it is easy to cause the plant to suffer from cold damage and seriously endanger its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops below 8℃, it should be moved to a well-lit room in time. During the entire wintering period, the temperature should be kept between 8℃ and 10℃, which is safer and more reliable.
Light: Money tree likes light and has strong shade tolerance. It should create an environment with good sunlight but a certain degree of shade. It avoids direct sunlight, especially the strong sun exposure after a long rain in late spring and early summer, and the 5-6 hours of unobstructed strong light baking around noon in summer, otherwise it is very easy to cause the newly drawn young leaves to be burned. In productive cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade shed with 50-70% light blocking, but it should not be too dark, otherwise it will cause the newly drawn young leaves to be slender, the leaves to be yellow and absent, and the distance between the leaflets is sparse, thus affecting the compactness and beauty of the plant. Potted plants moved to the greenhouse in winter should be given additional light. The water content of the pot soil is kept dry, and the plant can remain disease-free for many years. In addition, the newly drawn pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant shape is good.
Humidity control: To maintain the potted money tree, efforts should be made to create a moist and dry environment for it. During productive cultivation, for plants placed in a greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, the plants should be sprayed with water once a day. Because the plant has strong drought resistance, it is better to keep the pot soil slightly moist and dry, but occasional excessive watering and fertilizer will not cause root rot. In winter, pay attention to spraying water on the leaves and the surrounding environment so that the relative air humidity reaches more than 50%. After the Mid-Autumn Festival, watering should be reduced, or spraying water instead of watering to help the new leaves to survive the winter safely. In addition, in winter, special attention should be paid to the pot soil not being too moist, and it is better to be dry. Otherwise, under low temperature conditions, excessive moisture in the pot soil is more likely to cause plant root rot, or even the death of the whole plant.
Soil: Due to the special climatic conditions in the place of origin of the money tree, it has formed a strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the cultivation medium is good permeability. The basic requirement for the cultivation medium is good permeability. The cultivation medium is mostly made of peat, coarse sand or washed coal slag mixed with a small amount of garden soil, and its pH value is adjusted to between 6 and 6.5, which is slightly acidic. Because of its large tubers, well-developed root system, and long pinnate leaves, its growth should be observed in time during the growing season to decide whether to change the pot and soil. Always keep the cultivation medium permeable to create a root environment with good air permeability and water filtration. Check frequently during the rainy season. If water accumulation is found in the pot, it should be repotted and soil changed in time.
Fertilizer: Money tree likes fertilizer. In addition to adding an appropriate amount of fermented cake fertilizer or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer to the cultivation medium, 0.2% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate mixture can be applied 2-3 times a month during the growing season. Balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) can also be applied, with a concentration of 200-250ppm combined with calcium nitrate. After the Mid-Autumn Festival, in order to ensure that it can spend the winter safely, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution should be applied continuously for 2-3 times to promote the hardening and filling of its young leaf axis and newly drawn leaves. When the temperature drops below 15℃, all forms of topdressing should be stopped to avoid fertilizer damage to the roots under low temperature conditions.
Money tree, also known as American iron taro and golden pine. There is no main stem in the aboveground part, and adventitious buds sprout from the tuber to form large compound leaves. The leaflets are fleshy with short petioles, firm and dark green; the underground part is a fat tuber. Pinnate compound leaves grow from the top of the tuber, with strong leaf axis, and leaflets are opposite or nearly opposite on the leaf axis. The base of the petiole is swollen and lignified; each compound leaf has 6 to 10 pairs of leaflets, with a lifespan of more than 5 years, and is constantly renewed by new leaves. How to cultivate money tree: 1. Pay attention to the temperature and burial depth during division. Division should be carried out at a temperature above 18 degrees. You can break off one place at the weak joint of the tuber and plant it in a prepared pot. Don't bury it too deep. The top of the tuber can be buried 1.5 to 2 cm below the soil. It is best to apply sulfur powder or plant ash on the broken part. 2. The best breeding temperature is 20-32 degrees. When the temperature is high in summer, it is necessary to move it into a cool place indoors and spray water on the leaves of the plant to lower the temperature. When the room temperature is lower than 5 degrees in winter, it will harm the growth of the plant, and anti-freeze measures need to be taken in time. 3. It cannot be exposed to too strong sunlight. Money tree is a light-loving and shade-tolerant plant. It is not suitable to grow under strong light. It is best to place it in a place with a shelter next to the window so that it can fully contact the sun without causing leaf burns due to exposure. Its shielding effect is best to reach 60%. Excessive darkness will cause the leaves to turn yellow. 4. It needs better soil for its growth. The soil should not only be loose and fertile, well-drained, but also rich in organic matter and acidic to slightly acidic. When selecting soil, you can use coarse sand, peat, washed coal slag and a little garden soil, and adjust its pH value to between 6 and 6.5 to make it slightly acidic. 5. Keep the soil slightly dry. Because the money tree is highly drought-resistant, it is better to keep the pot soil dry. When the temperature is above 34 degrees, it is best to water once a day. In autumn and winter, water as little as possible. Spray the leaves of the plant instead of watering. 6. Fertilize twice a month when the temperature is above 15 degrees. Because the money tree likes fertilizer, it can be fertilized twice a month during the growing season. The most convenient fertilization option is to buy fertilizer specifically for the money tree, which is sold in the flower market. If you use chemical fertilizers, you need to choose 0.2% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate mixture. Note: 1. At noon or in late spring and early summer, pay attention to sun protection and give the plant proper shade. 2. The pot soil should not be too moist in winter, otherwise it will cause the root system of the plant to rot under low temperature conditions. It should be dry. 3. When the temperature is below 15 degrees, stop all forms of fertilization, otherwise the fertilizer will damage the rhizomes under low temperature conditions. 4. When it is particularly cold in winter, pay attention to the plants to keep warm. At night, you can put double-layer plastic bags on the plants, and remove the plastic bags when the temperature rises. 5. In summer, you should listen to the weather forecast in time and prepare to shade the plants as soon as possible.
Happy Tree
The lucky tree is also known as the bean tree, pepper tree, and elderberry. It is a deciduous tree of the Bignoniaceae family and the genus Lucky Tree. The lucky tree likes a hot, humid and sunny environment. Loose, fertile and well-drained loam is suitable, and the pot soil should be kept moist during the growing period. The suitable temperature for growth is 20-30℃.
1. Environmental requirements for the cultivation of lucky trees
1. Temperature for cultivating lucky trees
The lucky tree likes a warm environment, and the suitable temperature for growth is 22-28℃. In the hot season, when the ambient temperature exceeds 30℃, spray water on the leaves as much as possible to lower the temperature, or move it to a ventilated and cool place with shade to spend the summer.
When the temperature drops to about 10℃ in autumn, the plant must be moved to a warm place indoors for maintenance. Throughout the winter, the temperature is best kept at 8℃, and the lowest should not be lower than 5℃. The plant can be moved to a room with air conditioning or electric heater to ensure that the room temperature is not lower than 8℃ so that it can spend the winter safely.
2. Humidity of Lucky Tree Cultivation
For those who care for the plant at home, spray water on the leaves and surrounding areas as much as possible to increase the relative humidity of the air. The lucky tree likes a humid environment, and too dry is not good for its growth, but the number of water spraying should be reduced in winter.
3. Lighting for Lucky Tree Cultivation
The lucky tree likes light and can tolerate shade. It can grow in full sun or semi-shade environment. In summer, it is best to avoid strong sunlight at noon. When placing it at home, it is best to place it behind a glass window, so that it can get sufficient light and effectively avoid direct sunlight. In winter, you should pay more attention to supplementing the plant's demand for light.
2. Fertilizer and water management for lucky tree cultivation
The lucky tree needs moderate moisture. Too dry or too wet will cause the root system of the plant to rot. During the growth period, it should be fully supplied with water to keep the pot soil moist, but not easy to be waterlogged. For plants placed outdoors, the water in the pot should be poured out in time after the rain in the rainy season.
Fertilizers can be slow-release fertilizers with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Generally, in spring, when changing pots, the fertilizers are mixed into the substrate. Once a month, 3000 times potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution plus 5000 times urea solution are used, diluted and watered. In addition, water the pots every time the soil is dry.
During the growing season, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer once every half month to make the branches strong and the leaves shiny. However, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the petiole and internodes will become longer and the plant shape will become loose.
In winter, the substrate should be slightly tilted, and no watering is required as long as the leaf tips do not show any drooping symptoms. In order to enhance the plant's resistance to low temperatures in winter, 5000 times potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed once every half a month.
3. Potted maintenance of lucky tree cultivation
Watering of potted plants: The bean tree likes moisture and is afraid of dryness. Keep the seedbed moist during the seedling stage. In the hot and dry season, pay more attention to the water supply. To prevent excessive growth, control watering during the spring shoots to keep the pot soil moist. Spray regularly in summer and autumn, and do not water too much to avoid water accumulation and root rot.
Fertilization of potted plants: When potted plants are moved out of the house and repotted in April every year, add an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer or 3% multi-element compound fertilizer as base fertilizer to the culture soil. Water the cake fertilizer or bury multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer once a month during the growing season. In the Mid-Autumn Festival, 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be applied 2 to 3 times to increase cold resistance. When the temperature is above 32℃ in summer and below 12℃ in winter, stop applying fertilizer.
Potted plant pest control: Leaf spot is easily infected under high temperature and high humidity. You can use 50% carbendazim 600 times, spray once every half a month, 3 to 4 times in a row. Scale insects can be killed by spraying 40% Suqie Ke 1500 times.
The potted substrate is made of 5 parts garden soil, 3 parts leaf humus, 1 part decomposed organic fertilizer, and 1 part river sand. When the temperature is above 30℃, it should be properly shaded and sprayed with water, or spend the summer in the shade. In winter, it should be placed on a south-facing balcony with sufficient light. If the minimum temperature is below 5℃, it will suffer from cold damage, which will cause a lot of leaves to fall. The seedlings are shade-tolerant and shaded in summer.
4. Breeding methods of lucky tree cultivation:
There are three main propagation methods for the lucky tree: cutting propagation, sowing propagation and layering propagation.
① Cutting propagation of lucky tree
In March and April, cut 1-2 year old woody branches, 15-20 cm long, remove all leaves, and plant them in sandy loam seedling beds. The depth of the cuttings is about 8 cm of the ear length. At the same time, water should be sprayed to keep the seedling bed moist. After it grows a complete root system, it can be transplanted into pots with soil balls.
② Seeding propagation of lucky tree
At the end of December every year, when the capsules of the lucky tree are about to crack and the seeds are fully mature, take the long strip capsules, dry them and store them in dry place. In March and April of the following year, soak the dried seeds for 3-4 hours, take them out, spread them out to dry, mix them with sand and spread them on the seedbed, cover them with a thin layer of soil, cover them with film to keep them moist, and remove the film after the seeds emerge, but still need to be shaded. When they grow 4-5 large leaves, they can be transplanted into pots.
③ Layering propagation of the lucky tree
In March and April, perform ring peeling with a width of 2-3 times the diameter of the layered stem under the 2-year-old strong branches. Use clean and moist peat soil or sandy loam to pinch a soil ball with a diameter of 8-10 cm at the ring peeling site. Then wrap the soil ball with a 15 cm x 20 cm plastic film, leaving a water inlet at the top, and tie it to the thick trunk. By the end of autumn, the ring peeling mouth will grow a relatively complete root system, at which time it can be cut off from the mother plant and planted in a pot separately.
5. Precautions for cultivating the lucky tree:
The lucky tree has a beautiful shape and generally does not need heavy pruning. Dead branches and weak branches can be pruned at any time. The room temperature should be kept above 8℃ in winter, otherwise it is easy to suffer from cold damage, or even the whole plant will die.
The lucky tree is a light-loving plant, but can tolerate shade. It can grow in full sun or semi-shade environments, but avoid strong sunlight in summer. When placed indoors, it is best to place it in front of a window or on a balcony with sufficient light. If it is placed in a dimly lit room for a long time, it is easy to cause leaf fall. When it is a potted plant at home, it can be placed in a higher position in front of a window or balcony during the winter to allow it to receive more light.
6. Disease and pest control in lucky tree cultivation:
The main disease of the lucky tree is leaf spot disease, and the main insect pests are scale insects, mites, and aphids. In daily maintenance and management, the caregiver should pay attention to the scale insects and spray more water. When new leaves grow, pay attention to check whether there are aphids on the new leaves.
Spray 800 times of carbendazim or 800 times of thiophanate-methyl once every half a month to prevent the occurrence of leaf spot disease. The plant cannot be maintained in an environment that is too dark.
Leaf spot symptoms: Leaf drop
Reasons for leaf drop: The reasons for leaf drop of the lucky tree need to be analyzed in detail. First, if it is winter, the leaves turn yellow from the bottom to the top and then fall off, which is caused by low temperature; second, if it is in the growing season, the leaves turn yellow from the bottom to the top and then fall off, which is a nitrogen deficiency caused by insufficient absorption of nitrogen fertilizer by the plant; third, long-term maintenance of the plant in a dark place will also cause the middle and lower leaves to fall off.
Solution: If the leaves fall due to low temperature, the caregiver needs to increase the temperature around the plant. If the leaves turn yellow due to nitrogen deficiency, the caregiver needs to increase the nitrogen fertilizer nutrition of the plant. If the leaves fall due to dim light, the plant should be placed in an environment with appropriate light.
When potting the lucky tree, you should choose a loose, breathable, well-drained substrate with a pH value of 5.5-6.0. The fertilizer required for potted lucky trees is nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium: calcium: magnesium = 100:9:87:53:12.
Watering of potted plants: The bean tree likes moisture and is afraid of dryness. Keep the seedbed moist during the seedling stage. In the hot and dry season, pay more attention to the water supply. To prevent excessive growth, control watering during the spring shoots to keep the pot soil moist. Spray regularly in summer and autumn, and do not water too much to avoid water accumulation and root rot.
Fertilization of potted plants: When potted plants are moved out of the house and repotted in April every year, add an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer or 3% multi-element compound fertilizer as base fertilizer to the culture soil. Water the cake fertilizer or bury multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer once a month during the growing season. In the Mid-Autumn Festival, 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be applied 2 to 3 times to increase cold resistance. When the temperature is above 32℃ in summer and below 12℃ in winter, stop applying fertilizer.
Potted plant pest control: Leaf spot is easily infected under high temperature and high humidity. You can use 50% carbendazim 600 times, spray once every half a month, 3 to 4 times in a row. Scale insects can be killed by spraying 40% Suqie Ke 1500 times.
asparagus
Asparagus fern is a plant with high ornamental value and is easy to grow. It is the best choice for many people who neglect to take care of it but want to decorate their environment. The office desk, coffee table, and computer desk are all good places to put it.
Reproduction method
Propagation by division. Asparagus fern cannot be propagated by pinching a section off the stem like the green radish. It must be propagated by division. This is due to the characteristics of asparagus fern. Asparagus fern has a strong clumping ability. Asparagus fern over 4 years old will sprout new shoots at the root zone, thus making the plant continue to grow. The best season for division is spring. Take the asparagus fern out of the flower pot, peel off the new plants, and plant them in pots separately to get new plants.
Seed propagation. This is the main method of propagation of asparagus fern. When the peel of asparagus fern seeds turns black and soft, it is mature. Rub off the peel, wash it, dry it and sow it.
Breeding precautions
Temperature: Asparagus fern is not very sensitive to temperature. Generally, it can grow above 10 degrees. It will suffer frost damage below 5 degrees. 15 to 25 degrees is the most suitable temperature for the growth of asparagus fern. When the temperature reaches above 32 degrees, asparagus fern will stop growing.
Soil: The main thing is that the soil should be loose, fertile and well-drained.
Water: Asparagus fern likes shade and humidity, so the soil in the pot should always be kept moist, but there should be no stagnant water. The principle is to keep the soil moist when it is dry.
Fertilization: Asparagus fern needs to be fertilized with thin layers of ammonia and phosphorus to promote the luxuriant growth of branches and leaves. Liquid fertilizers available on the market can also be used.
Light: Asparagus fern is sensitive to sunlight and cannot be placed in direct sunlight. If exposed to direct sunlight, it will turn yellow or even burn. However, it cannot be shaded for a long time and should be placed in a bright place indoors, with appropriate sunlight in winter.
Shaping method: The stem of asparagus fern has climbing properties and can grow up to several meters. At this point, it loses its ornamental value, so it needs to be pruned appropriately. Mainly pruning old plants and dead stems, and at the same time, pruning branches that are not beautiful.