Section 1 Reproduction of greenhouse flowers 
1. Sexual reproduction
(I) Sowing period 
Greenhouse flower sowing is usually carried out in the greenhouse, so it is less affected by seasonal climatic conditions. Therefore, there is no strict seasonal restriction on the sowing period, which is often determined by the required flowering period. Most species are sown in spring, that is, from January to April. A few species such as cineraria, cyclamen, and calendula are usually sown from July to September. 

(II) Sowing method 
1. Shallow pots with a depth of 10 cm and sandy soil rich in humus are usually used for sowing. The general proportion is as follows:

5% leaf humus, 3% river sand, and 2% garden soil for small seeds.

4% leaf humus, 2% river sand, and 4% garden soil for medium seeds.

5% leaf humus, 1% river sand, and 4% garden soil for large seeds.

2. Sowing method Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with broken pot pieces, fill with broken pot pieces or coarse gravel, which is 1/3 of the pot depth, and fill it with sieved coarse culture soil, about 1/3 thick, and the top layer is the sowing soil, about 1/3 thick. After the pot soil is filled, use a wooden strip to compact and scrape the soil surface so that the soil surface is about 1 cm away from the edge of the pot. Use the "pot immersion method" to immerse the lower part of the shallow pot into a larger basin or pool of water so that the soil surface is above the water surface outside the pot. After the soil is soaked, lift the pot and sow after the excess water seeps out.

Small seeds should be sown by broadcasting. The sowing should not be too dense. Fine sand can be mixed in and sown together with the seeds. Cover with soil sieved through a fine sieve, the thickness of which is about 2-3 times the size of the seeds; small seeds such as begonias and gloxinias should be covered with very thin soil, so that the seeds cannot be seen; large seeds are often sown by spot or row sowing. After covering the soil, cover the surface of the pot with glass, newspapers, etc. to reduce water evaporation. Most seeds should germinate in the dark. For light-loving seeds such as primroses, glass can be covered on the surface of the pot.

The double pot method is often used for sowing fern spores. Sow the spores in a small pot, and then place the small pot in the moist sphagnum moss in the large pot. The small pot absorbs the water in the sphagnum moss with the help of the pot wall, which is more conducive to the germination of spores.

3. After sowing, care should be taken to keep the pot soil moist. When it is dry, water should still be given by pot immersion. After the seedlings emerge from the soil, gradually move them to a place with sufficient sunlight.

II. Asexual reproduction
(I) Division reproduction 
1.

Cut off the sprouts from the rhizosphere or underground stems and plant them separately to form independent plants. For example, Chunlan. In gardening, the roots are usually cut to promote the occurrence of root suckers to increase the reproduction coefficient.

2. Suckers

are short branches that are shortened, thickened and rosette-shaped and naturally occur in the rhizosphere or axils of the aboveground stems of some plants. The lower part of the sucker can naturally root, so it can be separated from the mother plant and planted separately. For example, aloe, sedum, and echeveria in succulent plants often produce suckers at the root zone; pineapple also produces suckers in the axils of the aboveground stems, which can be propagated by this method. In horticulture, the method of damaging the roots is often used to stimulate the production of suckers.

3. Runners are

stems with longer internodes that grow from the leaf cluster. Leaves, flowers and adventitious roots grow on the nodes, and can also produce young plants. Separating the small plants and planting them separately can form new plants. For example, spider plants.

4. Leaf buds

Some plants have special forms of buds that grow on the notches of the leaf margins, such as leaf buds that can take root when they fall to the ground. This habit is often used for reproduction in horticulture.

5. Bulb division

Some bulbous flowers can be propagated by bulb division, that is, the small bulbs formed around the mother bulb are separated and planted separately. For example, calla lily, amaryllis, etc. The tuber can also be divided into several pieces, each with one bud eye, and planted after the cut is dried or divided with plant ash. Such as Gloxinia, bulbous begonia, etc.

(II) Cutting propagation 
1. Types and methods of cutting propagation

are generally leaf cutting and stem cutting.

(1) Leaf cutting

is used for species that can produce adventitious buds and adventitious roots from leaves. Most flowers that can be leaf-cut have thick petioles, veins or thick leaves. Leaf cutting must select fully developed leaves and be carried out in a well-equipped propagation bed to maintain suitable temperature and humidity to obtain good results.

Whole leaf cutting uses complete leaves as cuttings. There are two types according to the location of the cutting.

The flat method cuts off the petiole, lays the leaf flat on the sand surface, and fixes it on the sand surface with iron or bamboo needles. The bottom is close to the sand surface. If it takes root, a young plant will be produced from the edge of the leaf; Begonia produces plants from the base of the leaf or the veins; Toad-leaf Begonia has larger leaves, which can be cut with a knife on each thick leaf vein, and a young plant will be produced at the cut.

Direct insertion method (also known as petiole insertion method) Insert the petiole into the sand, the leaf stands on the sand surface, and adventitious buds will form at the base of the petiole. When leaf cuttings are performed on Gloxinia, small bulbs will first form at the base of the petiole, followed by roots and buds. Other flowers propagated by this method include African violets, cold-resistant chicory, gesneria, bean greens, and hoya.

Leaf cuttings are to cut a leaf into several pieces, and then cut them separately to form adventitious buds on each leaf. Begonia, Gloxinia, peperomia, and Thousand Years Orchid are propagated by this method. Cut the petiole of Begonia from the base of the leaf, cut it into several pieces according to the distribution of the main veins, so that each piece has a main vein, and then cut off the thinner part of the leaf edge to reduce evaporation, and then insert the lower end into the sand. Soon, young plants will grow from the base of the leaf veins. Gloxinia can also be grown by leaf cuttings, that is, cut the main vein below each pair of lateral veins, and then cut off the thinner part below the vein. Insert the lower end of each leaf into the sand, and a young plant will grow below the main vein. Peperomia has thick and small leaves. Cut it into two pieces along the midrib, and insert the lower end into the sand. A young plant will grow from the main vein. The leaves of Welwitschia are longer and can be cut into small pieces of about 5 cm. Insert the lower end into the sand, and a young plant will grow from the lower end. After the Welwitschia is divided, be careful not to turn it upside down, otherwise it will affect survival.

(2) Stem cuttings

are generally bud leaf cuttings and soft wood cuttings. Hard wood cuttings (i.e. dormant cuttings) are mostly used for garden tree seedlings. However, hard wood cuttings can also be used for poinsettia, but soft wood cuttings take root quickly and have a high survival rate.

Leaf bud cuttings have only one bud with one leaf, and the lower part of the bud has a shield-shaped stem, or a small section of stem. Then insert it into the sand bed, leaving only the tip of the bud exposed. It is best to cover it with a glass cover after cutting to prevent excessive evaporation of water. This method is suitable for species that are not easy to produce adventitious buds

by leaf cuttings, such as rubber trees and geraniums. Soft material cuttings (growing period cuttings) Select the branch tip as the cutting, the length varies depending on the flower species, internode length and tissue hardness, usually 5-10cm long. The tissue should be moderately mature. Too tender and easy to rot, too old will take root slowly. If it is taken from a strong or young mother branch, the rooting rate is higher. Soft material cuttings must retain a part of the leaves. If all the leaves are removed, it will be difficult to take root. For species with larger leaves, part of the leaves can be cut off to avoid excessive transpiration of water. The cutting incision should be close to the bottom of the node, and it is better to cut it flat and smooth. For succulent species, the cuttings should be dried before cutting. For succulent plants, the cuttings should be dried for half a day to several days before cutting to prevent rot. For most flowers, it is advisable to cut cuttings before cutting to increase the survival rate. For example, purple-backed Dieffenbachia and Guangdong Dieffenbachia.

2. Cutting period

In flower propagation, cuttings are mainly taken during the growth period. Under greenhouse conditions, the growth state can be maintained throughout the year. Regardless of whether it is herbaceous or woody, it can be carried out at any time, but the optimal period varies depending on the type of flower.

3. Environmental conditions for rooting cuttings

(1) Temperature

Different flower species require different cutting temperatures, and their suitable temperatures are roughly the same as their germination temperatures. For most flowers, soft material cuttings should be carried out between 20-25℃; tropical plants can be carried out at above 25-30℃; cold-resistant flowers can be carried out at slightly lower temperatures. The substrate temperature (bottom temperature) needs to be slightly higher than the air temperature by 3-6℃, because when the bottom temperature is higher than the air temperature, it can promote the occurrence of roots, and low temperatures will inhibit the growth of branches and leaves. In other words, roots must be formed before branches and leaves grow to ensure plant survival. Therefore, special cutting beds and cutting boxes are equipped with equipment to increase the bottom temperature.

(2) Humidity

Cuttings can only take root in a moist substrate. The suitable moisture content in the substrate varies depending on the plant species, and is usually 50-60% of the soil moisture content. Excessive moisture often causes cuttings to rot. In the early stage of cuttings, more moisture makes it easier for healing tissue to form; after healing tissue is formed, moisture should be reduced. In order to avoid excessive transpiration of water in the cuttings and leaves, it is required to maintain a high air humidity, usually 80-90% relative humidity.

(3) Lighting

Soft material cuttings generally have terminal buds and leaves, and photosynthesize under sunlight, thereby producing auxin and promoting rooting. However, strong sunlight is not good for the survival of cuttings, so moderate shade should be given in the early stage of cuttings. Some experiments have shown that increasing light at night is conducive to the survival of cuttings. Electric lights can be installed on the cutting bed (box) to increase night lighting. Fluorescent light has strong brightness and low temperature, which will not increase the temperature and is more suitable for cuttings.

(4) Oxygen

When healing tissue and new roots occur, respiration is enhanced, so the cutting medium is required to have favorable conditions for oxygen supply. The ideal cutting medium should be able to keep moist at all times and be well ventilated. Therefore, river sand, peat and other loose soils can be used as suitable cutting medium. Cuttings should not be too deep, as the deeper they are, the less oxygen there is. Cuttings that are planted near the edge of the pot are usually easier to root because they have more oxygen.

4. Methods to promote rooting of cuttings

Different flower species have different responses to various treatments. Different varieties of the same flower species also respond differently to some chemicals. This is due to differences in age, branch development stage, nutritional conditions of the mother plant, and cutting period. There are many methods to promote rooting of cuttings, which are briefly introduced as follows:

(1) Chemical treatment method

Treatment with plant growth hormone (hormone) has been widely used in production. The three commonly used ones are indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid, and naphthylacetic acid. It has a significant effect on stem cuttings; but it has no obvious effect on root cuttings and leaf cuttings, and the occurrence of adventitious buds is often inhibited after treatment. There are many methods to apply growth hormones, including powder treatment, liquid treatment, fat treatment, spraying or injection of the mother plant for cuttings, and treatment of cutting medium. Powder and liquid treatments are the most common in flower propagation.

When treating with powders, talcum powder is the most common matrix, that is, the base of the cuttings is coated with powder before cutting. The amount of auxin mixed in varies depending on the type of cuttings and the cutting material. When indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid and naphthylacetic acid are used for cuttings that are easy to root, the concentration is 500-2000ppm, which is suitable for soft material cuttings. For cuttings that are difficult to root, the concentration is about 10000-20000ppm. When two auxins are mixed and applied, the cuttings often root faster and have more roots than those treated with a single auxin. When preparing powders, since indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid and naphthylacetic acid are not easily soluble in water, they should be dissolved in alcohol (95%) first, then mixed in talcum powder, stirred thoroughly, spread on a porcelain plate, dried in the dark, and finally ground into a very fine powder for use.

When treating with liquid agents, the appropriate concentrations of indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid and naphthaleneacetic acid are 5-10ppm for herbaceous plants and 40-200ppm for woody semi-hardwood cuttings, and each is soaked for 24 hours. Aqueous solutions are easily ineffective after being modulated, so it is better to prepare them before use. Alcoholic liquids can be made into concentrated solutions, such as 50% alcohol solvent of indolebutyric acid, the concentration of which can reach 4000-10000ppm. Immerse the cuttings for one or two seconds, take them out and cut them.

Potassium permanganate, sugarcane bran and acetic acid are also used. Potassium permanganate has a good effect on most woody plants, generally at a concentration of 0.1-1.0%, and soak for 24 hours. Sucrose is effective for both woody and herbaceous plants, and the treatment concentration is 2-10%. Herbaceous plants have good effects at lower concentrations, generally soaking for 24 hours, and the treatment time should not be too long, because the sugar solution is conducive to microbial activity. After treatment, they should be rinsed with clean water before cutting.

(2) Physical treatment methods

Ring peeling can be applied to woody plants that are difficult to root. During the growth period, cut the lower end of the cuttings and perform ring peeling to allow nutrients to accumulate at the upper end of the ring peeling part and the lower end of the cuttings. Then cut the cuttings here for cuttings, which will be easy to root.

Softening treatment has a good effect on some woody plants. That is, before cutting the cuttings, first shade the cut part to make it white and soften, provide a rooting environment and stimulation in advance, and promote the formation of root tissue. Use waterproof black paper or black cloth to wrap several circles around the top of the new shoot. When the new shoot continues to grow to an appropriate length, the shaded part turns white, and the cuttings can be cut from the shaded part.

Increasing the bottom temperature is a very widely used method, as mentioned above. In addition, spray treatment can also greatly promote cutting rooting.

(III) Grafting propagation 
This method is mostly used for flowers and trees that are difficult to root or difficult to obtain seeds from cuttings. Plants in the cactus family are often propagated by grafting.

(IV) Layering propagation 
This method has the advantages of being easy to survive, maintaining the characteristics of the original variety, and being able to handle species that are not easy to propagate using other methods.

Some greenhouse flowers and trees are sometimes propagated using high pressure. Such as bougainvillea, croton, dracaena, cordyline, pandanus, etc.

The time required for layering to take root varies depending on the type of flower. Herbaceous flowers are very easy to root, and flowers and trees take a long time to root, ranging from dozens of days to a year. One-year-old branches are easier to root than old branches. When the root system has fully grown from the cut wound, it can be cut off from the mother plant under the rooting part and replanted. After separation from the mother plant, it should be placed in a shaded place for growth.

Section 2 Cultivation and management of greenhouse flowers 
In greenhouse flower cultivation, a suitable greenhouse provides good material environment conditions for greenhouse flower cultivation. However, to achieve good cultivation results, it is also necessary to master comprehensive and detailed cultivation and management techniques. That is, according to the ecological habits of various greenhouse flowers, corresponding cultivation and management technical measures are adopted to create the most suitable environmental conditions, achieve excellent cultivation effects, and meet the production requirements of high quality, low cost, short cultivation period, long supply period, and high yield.

There are two cultivation methods for greenhouse flower cultivation: greenhouse potted and greenhouse ground planting. Potted cultivation is the main production method.

1. Manufacture and preparation of culture soil
There are many types of greenhouse flowers with different habits and different requirements for cultivation soil. In order to meet the different requirements of various flowers for soil, a variety of culture soils must be prepared.

In greenhouse potted plants, the volume of pot soil is limited, and the roots of flowers are confined to the pots. Therefore, the culture soil must contain sufficient nutrients and have good physical properties. The culture soil required by general potted flowers must be loose and airy to meet the needs of root breathing; second, it must have good water permeability and no water accumulation; third, it must be able to retain water and nutrients and continuously supply the needs of flower growth and development; fourth, the pH value of the culture soil must adapt to the ecological requirements of cultivated flowers; fifth, harmful microorganisms and other harmful substances must not be allowed to grow and mix.

The culture soil should contain rich humus, which is an important condition for maintaining a good soil structure. The culture soil contains rich humus, which means good drainage, soft soil, and good air circulation; the soil surface does not crack when dry, does not clump tightly when wet, and does not become hardened after watering; the humus itself can absorb a large amount of water, which can keep the potting soil moist for a long time and is not easy to dry. Therefore, humus is an important component of the culture soil.

(I) Common types of greenhouse soil 
1. Compost soil is made by piling up layer by layer the dead branches and leaves of plants, old potting soil, garbage, grass and dried plants, etc., and fermenting and composting them. Compost soil contains more humus and minerals, and is generally neutral or slightly alkaline (pH6.5-7.4). 

2. Leaf humus is the most widely used matrix for preparing culture soil. It is made of fallen leaves piled up and decomposed. Collect fallen leaves in autumn, preferably from deciduous broad-leaved trees. The leaves of coniferous trees and evergreen broad-leaved trees are mostly leathery and not easy to rot, which prolongs the stacking time.

The method of stacking is to stack fallen leaves, stable manure (cow, horse, chicken, sheep or pig manure, etc.) and garden soil layer by layer. First, spread a layer of fallen leaves on the ground, with a thickness of about 20-30cm; then spread a layer of stable manure on top, with a thickness of about 10-15cm; it is best to sprinkle a layer of bone meal (or rice bran) on the stable manure; then spread a layer of garden soil (loam), with a thickness of about 15cm; for every 10 volumes of stable manure materials piled up, 3 volumes of human feces or feces water can be sprinkled in, and sprinkled 2-3 times, and finally a fertilizer pile 150-200cm high, small at the top and large at the bottom, with the top center of the pile slightly concave, so that when the pile is dry, it is convenient to pour human feces or water from the top. After the pile is completed, cover it to prevent rainwater from seeping in. During the accumulation period, it should be turned upside down once every few months, and thin human feces and urine should be poured in to make the pile evenly decompose. After the accumulation is completed in the autumn of the second year, it can be screened and used. The prepared leaf humus should be stored indoors. If it is placed in the open field, it will lose the porosity and elasticity of the humus due to excessive decomposition, and some nutrients will be lost. The garden soil used for accumulation is preferably loam rich in humus. If the soil is too sticky, some fine sand should be mixed in.

Leaf humus has loose soil, rich nutrients, high humus content, and generally acidic reaction (pH4.6-5.2), which is suitable for a variety of greenhouse potted flowers. It is especially suitable for begonias, cyclamen, terrestrial orchids, ferns, fuchsias, gloxinia, etc.

In addition to artificial preparation, this kind of leaf humus can also be collected in low-lying areas or ditches in natural forests.

3. Peat soil is made by carbonization of peat moss.

(1) Brown peat is peat that has been carbonized for a short time. It is light yellow to brown in color, contains a lot of organic matter, and has an acidic reaction (pH 6.0-6.5). Brown peat powder plus river sand is a good bed soil for greenhouse cutting beds. Peat not only has an antiseptic effect and is not easy to grow mold, but also contains humic acid, which can stimulate the rooting of cuttings, which is much better than using river sand alone.

(2) Black peat is peat that has been carbonized for a long time. It is black in color, contains more minerals, less organic matter, and contains some sand. It has a slightly acidic or neutral (pH 6.5-7.4) reaction and is an important cultivation medium for greenhouse potted flowers.

4. Sandy soil is general sandy soil with good drainage, but low nutrient content, and a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. 

In addition, vermiculite and perlite can also be used as cultivation medium.

(II) Preparation of culture soil 
The suitable culture soil for greenhouse flowers varies with different types. Even for the same flower, the texture and fertility of the culture soil are different at different growth and development stages. For example, for sowing and transplanting weak seedlings, loose soil must be used without fertilizer or with only a small amount of fertilizer. Large seedlings and growing plants require denser soil and more fertilizer. The culture soil for flower pots is mostly made of several types of soil because a single type of soil is difficult to meet the various habit requirements of cultivated flowers. For example, the preparation ratio of the culture soil for general sowing is: 5 leaf humus, 3 garden soil, and 2 river sand.

The culture soil used for greenhouse woody flowers requires more humus during the cultivation period of sowing seedlings and cuttings, and the approximate ratio is 4 leaf humus, 4 garden soil, and 2 river sand. After the plants grow, the amount of leaf humus should be reduced.

The preparation of culture soil varies from region to region. Leaf humus is commonly used in East China, but Shanghai mostly uses rice husk ash, plant ash, pond mud and yellow mud. Although there are different application habits, the prepared culture soil must meet the growth and development needs of flowers.

2. Potting Methods
(I) Potting 
refers to the operation of planting seedlings propagated in the nursery bed into flower pots. The specific method is to select a flower pot of appropriate specifications according to the size of the seedling, cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a piece of broken potting pieces, and turn the concave side downward. The bottom of the pot can be filled with a layer of drainage material such as coarse particles or broken potting pieces, sand, broken bricks, etc. sifted from the culture soil, and then fill it with a layer of culture soil to wait for the seedlings to be planted. Use your left hand to hold the seedling and place it in the center of the pot mouth at an appropriate depth. Fill the culture soil around the roots of the seedlings and press it with your fingers. There should be an appropriate distance between the soil surface and the pot mouth. After planting, use a watering can to fully irrigate the water and temporarily place it in a shady place for a few days to slow down the seedlings. After the seedlings resume growth, gradually place them in a place with sufficient light.

(ii) Repotting 
is the operation of moving a potted plant to another pot. There are two different situations for repotting: First, as the seedlings grow, the roots have no room to expand in the soil in the pot, so their growth is restricted. Part of the roots often penetrate the drainage holes or expose the soil surface. They should be promptly repotted from a small pot to a large pot to expand the nutrient volume of the roots, which is conducive to the continued healthy growth of the seedlings. Second, the fully grown plants do not need to be repotted in a larger pot. However, after years of cultivation, the physical properties of the soil in the original pot have deteriorated, nutrients have been lost, or they are filled with old roots. Repotting is only for trimming the roots and replacing new culture soil. The size of the pot can remain unchanged.

When repotting from a small pot to a large pot, you should gradually move to a larger pot according to the size of the plant. Do not move to a pot that is too large, because doing so is not only labor-intensive and material-intensive, but also difficult to regulate water, poor ventilation of the seedling root system, and incomplete growth. The buds form later and there are fewer flowers. One- and two-year-old greenhouse flowers grow rapidly. Generally, they need to be repotted 2-4 times before flowering. The last repotting before flowering is also called planting. Perennial flowers are usually repotted once a year, while woody flowers are usually repotted once every 2 or 3 years, depending on the type. If the greenhouse conditions are suitable and the management is thoughtful, repotting can be done at any time of the year, but it is not advisable to repot when the flower buds are forming and the flowers are in full bloom.

When repotting, separate the fingers of your left hand, press the base of the plant on the surface of the pot, lift the pot upside down, and gently tap the edge of the pot with your right hand to remove the soil ball; if it is difficult to remove, gently tap the edge of the pot against something else (preferably a wooden object) to remove the soil ball. After the soil ball is taken out, if it is a perennial flower, part of the old soil on the shoulder of the original soil ball and the surrounding outer surface should be scraped off, and all the old roots, dead roots and curled roots near the edge of the pot should be cut off with scissors. Usually, when repotting perennial flowers, division is carried out at the same time. When repotting one or two-year-old flowers, the soil ball should not be treated in any way, and the original soil ball should be planted immediately, and care should be taken not to break the soil ball. If the seedlings have grown gradually, the drainage material at the bottom of the pot can be filled less, or not filled at all. After filling a little culture soil at the bottom of the pot, the soil ball that has been taken out should be placed in the center of the pot, and then soil should be filled around the soil ball and slightly pressed down. Woody flowers should have a part of the soil ball appropriately removed according to the type. For example, when pruning the roots of palms, one-third of the old roots can be cut off. For trees like bark trees, pruning is not suitable. When potted flowers are not suitable for repotting, the old soil on the surface and shoulders of the pot can be shoveled off and replaced with new soil, which can also have the effect of repotting.

After repotting, the soil must be kept moist. The first time, it should be fully watered so that the roots are in close contact with the soil. After that, the watering should not be too much, and it should be kept moist. Because the root system is injured after repotting, the water absorption is reduced. Especially for pruned plants, excessive watering can easily cause the root injuries to rot. After the new roots grow, gradually increase the amount of water. The soil in the pot should not be dry when the pot is first changed, otherwise it is easy to die after the pot is changed. Therefore, it is advisable to place the seedlings in the shade for the first few days after the pot is changed.

(III) Rotating the pot 
In a single-roof greenhouse and an unequal greenhouse, the light mostly enters from the south. Therefore, if the potted flowers are placed in the greenhouse for too long, they will tend to grow in the direction of the light and tilt to the south due to the phototropism. The degree and speed of this tilt are closely related to the growth rate of the plant. The faster the potted flowers grow, the greater the speed and degree of tilt. Therefore, in order to prevent the plants from growing in one direction and destroying the symmetrical and round plant shape, the direction of the flower pot should be changed after a certain number of days to make the plants grow evenly.

In a double-roof greenhouse extending north-south, light enters from all directions, and the potted flowers do not have the disadvantage of being biased to one side, so there is no need to rotate the pot.

(IV) There are two situations for turning the pot 
. One is that after a certain period of growth, the plant width of the potted flowers increases, resulting in crowding between the plants. In order to increase the distance between the pots, make them well ventilated and light-permeable, and enable the potted flowers to thrive, this operation must be performed. If the pots are not turned over in time, they will be harmed by pests and diseases and cause leggy growth. Secondly, in the greenhouse, due to the different locations of potted flowers, the influence of environmental factors such as light, ventilation, and temperature is also different, and the growth conditions of potted flowers are different. In order to make the growth of each potted flower uniform, it is necessary to turn the pots frequently, move the vigorously growing plants to the parts of the greenhouse with poorer conditions, and move the potted flowers in the poorer parts to the parts with better conditions to adjust their growth. Usually, turning the pots over is often done at the same time as rotating the pots.

(V) Loosening the potting 
soil Loosening the potting soil can loosen the soil surface that has been compacted due to continuous watering, allow air to circulate, and the plants to grow well. At the same time, the moss and weeds on the soil surface can be removed. The formation of moss affects the air circulation of the potting soil and is not conducive to plant growth. When the soil surface is covered with moss, it is difficult to determine the moisture level of the potting soil and it is inconvenient to water. Loosening the potting soil is also beneficial for watering and fertilizing. Loosening the potting soil is usually done with bamboo strips or a small iron rake.

(VI) Fertilization: 
When potting and repotting, basal fertilizer is often applied, and topdressing is applied during the growth period. The following is a detailed description of commonly used fertilizers for flowers and their application methods.

1. Organic fertilizers

(1) Cake fertilizer is an important fertilizer for potted flowers and is often used as topdressing. It can be applied in liquid or dry form. Preparation of liquid fertilizer: 18L cake fertilizer powder, 9L water, and 0.09L superphosphate. After decomposition, it becomes a stock solution. When applied, dilute it with water according to the type of flower. For flowers that require more fertilizer and grow vigorously, add 10 times the stock solution to water; for flowers, trees and wild flowers, add 20-30 times the stock solution to water; for alpine flowers and orchids, add 100-200 times the stock solution to water.

Cake fertilizer can also be applied as dry fertilizer. Add 40% water to ferment it, then dry it. When applied, bury it around the edge of the pot and water it to slowly decompose and continuously supply nutrients. If too much unfermented cake fertilizer is used, it is easy to damage the root system, so please be careful. After the cake fertilizer is fermented and dried, it can also be crushed and mixed into the culture soil as a base fertilizer.

(2) Human feces and urine are commonly used fertilizers for potted plants. The manure is dried, rolled with a stone roller, and sieved to make dried manure powder for application. Dried manure powder can be mixed with culture soil as a base fertilizer. The amount of mixing varies depending on the type of flowers. The general standard is that 10% should be mixed for seedlings, 20% for general grass flowers, and 30% for woody flowers. Dried manure powder can also be used as a topdressing fertilizer. It can be mixed into the surface of the potting soil or buried around the edge of the pot. The fertility can last for half a year. If used as liquid fertilizer, it is easy for plants to use it. That is, human feces and urine are added with 10 times the amount of water, and the clear liquid is taken after it is decomposed.

(3) Cow dung is a common fertilizer for greenhouse flowers, especially for the cultivation of carnations, roses, tropical orchids, etc. After the cow dung is fully decomposed, it can be applied to the greenhouse bed. That is, after the cow dung is added with water and decomposed, the clear liquid is taken and used as a topdressing fertilizer for potted flowers.

(4) Oil residue is the residue after oil extraction. It is generally used as topdressing. Oil residue can be mixed into the surface soil of the pot. It is especially suitable for woody flowers. Because it is non-alkaline, it is often used for white jasmine and jasmine. That is, after the oil residue is decomposed with water, the clear liquid is taken as topdressing.

(5) Rice bran contains more phosphorus fertilizer and should be mixed into compost and fermented before application. It cannot be used directly as base fertilizer. For grass flowers with soft stems and leaves, using unfermented rice bran before sowing or transplanting often causes plant damage.

(6) Chicken manure Chicken manure contains less water and is a concentrated organic fertilizer rich in phosphorus. It is suitable for all kinds of flowers, especially carnations, chrysanthemums and other cut flowers. Before application, mix 10% to 20% into the soil and add water to moisten it for fermentation. It can be used as base fertilizer, or 50 times the amount of water can be added to make liquid fertilizer.

2. Inorganic fertilizers

(1) Ammonium sulfate can be used for greenhouse roses, carnations, chrysanthemums and other flowers, but the application amount should not be too much. Roses can use slightly more, while chrysanthemums and carnations should use less. Ammonium sulfate is only suitable for promoting the growth of seedlings. Applying too much ammonium sulfate to cut flowers can make the stems and leaves soft and reduce the quality of the cut flowers. Generally, 30-40g is applied per 1m2 as basal fertilizer, and the amount of liquid fertilizer applied needs to be 50-100 times the amount of water.

(2) Superphosphate is used more in greenhouse cut flower cultivation. It is often used as basal fertilizer, with 40-50g applied per 1m2; when used as topdressing, it is applied with 100 times the amount of water. Since phosphorus fertilizer is easily fixed by the soil, a 2% aqueous solution can be used for foliar spraying.

(3) Potassium sulfate is more needed for cut flowers and bulb flowers. The amount of basal fertilizer is 15-20g per 1m2, and the amount of topdressing is 2-7g per 1m2.

(VII) Watering 
The growth of flowers is determined to a certain extent by the suitability of watering. The key link is how to scientifically determine the number of watering, watering time and watering amount by integrating natural meteorological factors, types of greenhouse flowers, growth and development conditions, growth and development stages, specific environmental conditions of the greenhouse, size of flower pots and composition of culture soil. The following is a brief explanation:

1. The amount of watering varies with the type of flowers. Ferns, orchids and begonias require abundant water during their growth period; succulents require less water. Each type of flower has different water requirements. As a fern, the Nephrolepis serrata only needs to keep the soil moist in a room with low light; while some species of the genus Adiantum often place flower pots in water trays or plant them on small fountains to meet their requirements for abundant water.

2. Flowers have different water needs at different growth stages. When flowers enter the dormant period, the amount of watering should be reduced or stopped depending on the type of flower. From the dormant period to the growth period, the amount of watering gradually increases. During the vigorous growth period, the amount of watering should be sufficient. The amount of watering should be properly controlled before flowering, increased appropriately during the flowering period, and reduced appropriately during the fruiting period.

During the seedling stage, some flowers with very small seedlings, such as Begonia sempervirens and Gloxinia, must be sprayed with water using a fine-hole spray bottle or moistened by immersion in a pot.

3. Flowers have very different requirements for water in different seasons. Here is an explanation of the general requirements of flowers for water in different seasons:

(1) In spring, the weather gradually warms up, and before the flowers are taken out of the greenhouse, ventilation should be gradually increased. The amount of watering at this time should be more than in winter. Grass flowers should be watered once every 1-2 days; flowers and trees should be watered once every 3-4 days.

(2) In summer, most flower species have been placed under the shade shed in summer, but due to the hot weather, evaporation and plant transpiration are still very large. Generally, greenhouse flowers should be watered once in the morning and evening every day. There is more rain in summer, and sometimes it rains for several days. Be careful not to accumulate rainwater in the pot. You can tip the pot to one side before the rain, and straighten it back to its original position in time after the rain. During the rainy season, the amount of watering and the frequency of watering should be determined by observing the weather conditions.

(3) In autumn, when the weather turns cooler, the amount of watering for potted flowers placed outdoors can be reduced to once every 2-3 days.

(4) In winter, potted flowers are moved to room temperature. The frequency of watering depends on the type of flowers and the temperature of the greenhouse. Potted flowers in low-temperature greenhouses should be watered once every 4-5 days; potted flowers in medium-temperature and high-temperature greenhouses should generally be watered once every 1-2 days; in places with sufficient sunlight and higher temperatures, watering should be more frequent.

4. The size of the flower pot and the size of the plant are related to the drying speed of the potting soil. For small pots or large plants, the potting soil dries faster, so the watering frequency should be more frequent; otherwise, it should be less frequent.

The principle of watering is to water only when the potting soil is dry, and water thoroughly when watering. Avoid multiple insufficient watering, which only wets the surface of the potting soil, forming a "waist-cut water" pattern, which causes the lower roots to lack water and affects the normal growth of the plant.

3. Arrangement of potted flowers in the greenhouse
When cultivating flowers in a greenhouse, especially when cultivating multiple flowers in one greenhouse at the same time, in order to obtain plants with good growth and development, it is always necessary to consider how to place them in the greenhouse. Improper placement, placing light-loving plants in the shade of the greenhouse and placing shade-loving plants in sunny places, will not only affect the growth and development of flowers, but also be extremely uneconomical for the use of the greenhouse. Therefore, it is necessary to understand the performance of the greenhouse and the ecological habits of the plants.

The microclimate in the greenhouse changes with the season, greenhouse type, and artificial management (such as heating, ventilation, watering, etc.). The microclimate of each part of a greenhouse is also different, so the placement of potted flowers in the greenhouse is determined by their requirements for factors such as sunlight, temperature, humidity and ventilation. Meeting and ensuring the appropriate environmental conditions necessary for the normal growth and development of various flowers is the primary principle of flower cultivation.

In a greenhouse, as the distance from the glass surface increases, the light intensity also decreases. Therefore, light-loving flowers should be placed in the front and middle of the greenhouse with sufficient light, as close to the glass window and roof as possible. This is also the main reason for using a platform to place potted flowers; shade-tolerant flowers and flowers that are not strict with light should be placed in the back or semi-shaded area of ​​the greenhouse.

When arranging potted flowers, the plants should not block each other's light or block less light. Short plants should be placed in the front and tall plants in the back.

The shadow of the last row of plants on the south side of the aisle can be projected on the aisle, so as not to affect the flowers on the other side of the aisle.

The temperature of each part of the greenhouse is inconsistent. The temperature near the side window varies greatly, while the temperature in the middle of the greenhouse is relatively stable. The temperature near the heat source is high, and the temperature near the door also varies greatly because the door is often opened and closed. Therefore, warm-loving flowers should be placed near the heat source, and relatively cold-resistant and strong flowers should be placed near the door and near the side window.

Some flowers are prone to leggy growth when placed in humid places. They should be placed in high, dry and well-ventilated places. Putting an inverted flower pot under the flower pot will help ventilation.

Flowers have different requirements for light, temperature, humidity and other conditions at different growth and development stages. They should be moved or converted to different greenhouses accordingly. To speed up sowing and cutting, they should be placed close to heat sources. After taking root and putting leaves, they need to be moved to a place with lower temperature and sufficient sunlight.

Dormant plants are not strict about light and temperature. They can be placed in places with poor light and temperature conditions, and the density can be increased. After the plants germinate, they are moved to a place with suitable light. As the plants grow and the width of the plants continues to expand, they should be given a larger space.

Under the premise of meeting the requirements of flower growth and development and convenient management, the utilization rate of the greenhouse must be increased as much as possible in production to reduce production costs. Improving the utilization rate of the greenhouse can be considered from two aspects: plane arrangement and facade arrangement.

On the plane of a greenhouse, except for walkways, pools, and heat sources (fire beds, fire channels, heating channels), the other areas are effective areas. There are mobile planting beds abroad. Usually, the greenhouse can be filled with planting beds without walkways. When managing, push the cultivation bed to form a walkway, which can improve the flat utilization rate of the greenhouse. If the arrangement is reasonable during cultivation, the utilization rate of the effective area can be improved. For example, between the large pots of white jasmine, put some potted flowers that are not strict with light or have entered dormancy and stack them up. In addition, a good utilization plan for the greenhouse area should be made, and a plan for the rotation and cropping of flower production should be arranged in a year. In order to make full use of the greenhouse area in a year, when one flower is out of the nursery, the vacant greenhouse area should be used in time with another flower, so that it will not be idle.

In addition to the use of the plane, the space (facade) should also be used. A greenhouse that is too short does not have favorable conditions in this regard. In a higher greenhouse, drooping plants can be hung above the walkway; in a low greenhouse, drooping creeping flowers such as spider plants can be placed on the edge of the plant platform. In a single-roof greenhouse, a step platform can be used to place some shade and humidity-tolerant flowers under the platform.

4. Regulation of greenhouse environment
Regulation of greenhouse environment mainly includes temperature, sunlight and humidity. It is carried out according to the requirements of different flowers and seasonal changes. The regulation of these three aspects is interrelated.

(I) Temperature 
Usually, potted flowers should be brought into the room for maintenance around the time of frost (late October). At this time, the temperature is higher during the day and drops to about 10℃ at night, so there is no need to heat them in the early stage of entering the room. In winter, heating is required. Generally, flue, hot water, steam heating and other methods are used. The heat energy is coal, rice husk, electricity, solar energy, etc. Modern technology uses electric heating wire automatic heating method, which is controlled by computer. Flowers that require higher temperature can be placed near the heat source, but the heat source is at least 1 meter away from the flower plant to prevent burns.

Large-scale factory production of flowers such as cut flowers is also carried out indoors in summer. In addition to opening windows for ventilation and cooling, cooling measures such as shading and watering are also used to reduce the room temperature to below 30℃. If conditions permit, air conditioners can be installed to effectively reduce the indoor temperature.

(ii) Sunlight 
shading is the only way to regulate the intensity of sunlight, and it also has the effect of regulating temperature. Succulent plants require sufficient sunlight and do not need shading. Shade-loving flowers such as orchids, begonias and ferns must be shaded appropriately; they require longer shading time in summer than in winter, and because the light intensity in summer is much greater than in winter, the degree of shading is also greater than in winter. The shading time is generally from 9 am to 4 pm. If it is cloudy or rainy, no shading is required. Some of the most shade-loving ferns require that all direct sunlight be blocked. Generally, greenhouse flowers require 30-50% of sunlight to be blocked in summer, and sufficient sunlight is needed in winter without shading. In spring and autumn, the strong light around noon should be blocked, and sufficient light should be given in the morning and evening.

The method of greenhouse shading usually uses reed curtains or bamboo curtains to cover the glass roof. If you need to shade for a short period of reproduction, you can spray a thin layer of lime water on the outdoor glass surface; if you need to shade for a longer period of time, you need to add an appropriate amount of salt to the lime water to increase the adhesion of the lime. In addition to sufficient ventilation, shading can also effectively reduce the temperature in the summer to reduce the temperature of the greenhouse.

(III) Humidity 
Humidity regulation has the effect of increasing and reducing humidity. In order to meet the humidity requirements of general flowers, water can be sprinkled on the indoor floor, plant tables and pot walls to increase the evaporation of water. It is best to set up a manual or automatic spray device to automatically adjust the humidity. For tropical plants that require higher humidity, such as tropical orchids, ferns, insectivorous plants, etc., in the design of special greenhouses, except for the passages, all floors should be water surfaces, which can increase the humidity of the air. In winter, the return pipe of the heating device can be used to pass through the indoor pool to promote the evaporation of water in the pool, thereby achieving the purpose of increasing the indoor humidity. Excessive humidity in the greenhouse is not good for the growth of flowers, and ventilation can be used to reduce the humidity. In the winter, on sunny days at noon, the side windows should be opened appropriately to allow air to circulate, but it is best not to let the cold air blow directly onto the plants. When the humidity of the outside air is also high, it is necessary to heat and ventilate at the same time. The skylights and side windows must be opened throughout the summer to enhance ventilation. Ventilation can not only reduce humidity, but also reduce the indoor temperature.

Section 3 Greenhouse annual and biennial flowers 
1. Senecio cruentus 
1. Ecological habits

Senecio cruentus is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Senecio in the Asteraceae family, and is mostly cultivated as a biennial flower. It is also known as the thousand-day lotus, thousand-night lotus, and citrus lotus. Senecio cruentus likes a cool climate and avoids heat. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 21°C, and the optimum temperature for growth is 15-20°C. It is not cold-resistant, and the seedlings that have been trained can withstand short-term low temperatures of 0-3°C. Flower bud differentiation can be completed after 6 weeks of low-temperature treatment below 15°C, and it can bloom after another 8 weeks. High temperatures make the stems grow slender and affect flowering. It likes light, but is afraid of strong light in summer. Long-day light promotes the development of flower buds and can bloom early. Generally, 15-16 hours of long-day light is given 3 months after sowing to promote early flowering. Senecio cruentus likes a humid environment, and the suitable soil pH value is 6.5-7.5. It is afraid of drought and avoids waterlogging. Too much nitrogen fertilizer will make the seedlings grow too long.

The flowering period of Cineraria is long, from November of the current year to May of the following year, and the peak flowering period is from February to April.

2. Propagation and cultivation

are mainly propagated by sowing, but can also be propagated by cuttings.

(1) Seeding method Cineraria seeds are small, and the soil in the sowing bed should be finely sieved for fine sowing.

It takes 6 months for Cineraria to bloom from sowing to flowering in the south. It usually takes about 100 days from sowing to planting of older seedlings.

Plants sown in August have large plants and large flowers, while plants sown in October are smaller. This is mainly due to the different growth and development stages of seedlings in different seasons, and the environmental conditions for sowing in August are suitable.

Cineraria can be sown from April to October, but from spring sowing to summer, it needs to be cultivated under a shade shed, and water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently to cool them down. Do not let rain fall on them, otherwise the seedlings will die in large numbers after the hot summer. Therefore, sowing is mostly done in August.

Sowing in seedling trays, and a small amount can also be sown in flower pots. The soil of the seedling bed should be loose and fertile. It is better to mix leaf humus and peat soil with an equal amount of garden soil to make the seeding bed soil. It can also be prepared with equal amounts of fully decomposed horse manure and garden soil. Put the prepared bed soil into the tray and compact it slightly, then use a watering can to water the bottom of the tray, and then sow it after the water is mixed. The sowing amount per square meter of the seeding bed is about 4g. After sowing, cover the fine soil with 2-3mm, cover it with a mulch film and place it in a cool place. Sow the dry seeds for 4-5 days to sprout. After the seedlings emerge, immediately remove the mulch film and move it to a place with a shading rate of 60% to see the light appropriately. Prevent rain and excessive growth during the seedling stage. When the seedlings are short of water, it is best to place the seedling tray in water, and make the water level lower than the top of the sowing tray, penetrate through the strip-shaped gap under the tray, and take the sowing tray out of the water when the soil surface in the sowing tray is slightly wet. Divide the seedlings in time according to the sowing density. Generally, about 20 days after germination, the first seedling is transplanted when there are 2 to 3 true leaves, with a seedling spacing of 5 cm, or directly cultivated in a container with a diameter of about 8 cm. The seedlings are placed in containers when there are 5 to 6 leaves.

In August and September, the cineraria seedlings should be grown in a shade shed with a shading rate of 60%. When the temperature drops to 21°C in the south, the shade net can be gradually removed and full-light seedlings can be implemented. The leaves of cineraria have a large transpiration rate and require a lot of water. During the seedling stage, care should be taken to prevent the leaves from wilting due to lack of water.

When there are 6 to 7 true leaves, if the temperature is suitable, the seedlings grow rapidly. At this time, the demand for water and fertilizer is high, and watering and topdressing should be carried out in time. Foliar topdressing can be used. The temperature during the seedling stage should be 10 to 20°C, and it should be slightly lower at night to inhibit excessive growth. Generally, the seedlings are planted in pots when there are 9 to 10 leaves. If it is restricted by certain conditions and planting needs to be postponed, water should be properly controlled. On the contrary, if conditions permit, the seedlings should be planted in pots earlier, such as when they have 7 to 8 leaves. Cineraria has large leaves, so in the later stage of seedling cultivation, the container should be appropriately opened to increase the photosynthetic area.

(2) Cutting method

For double-petal varieties that are not easy to bear fruit or in years that do not bear fruit due to climatic reasons, cutting method can be used for propagation.

It is usually carried out in May after the flowers have faded. Select strong axillary buds for cuttings, and the buds are 6 to 8 cm long. Remove the large leaves at the base, leave 2 to 3 tender leaves and insert them in a sand tray. Roots will grow in 20 to 30 days, and then be placed in a shaded and ventilated place for cultivation.

Cineraria seedlings can be infected with damping-off disease. It is easily damaged by aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and leaf miners, so care should be taken to prevent and control them.

3. Uses

Cineraria has bright colors and blue flowers that are rare in general indoor flowers. The flowering period is long, and it is one of the main flower species for New Year's Day, Spring Festival, May Day and other winter and spring celebrations. The star-shaped variety is suitable for cut flowers, and can be used to make flower baskets or wreaths. Cineraria is also the main flower for arranging the early spring flower beds in parks.

2. Primula spp. 
1. Ecological habits

Primula is the general name for plants of the genus Primula in the family Primulaceae. It is a perennial herb and is mostly cultivated as a biennial in flower production. It likes warm and humid climates, and the optimal growth temperature is 13-18℃. Under sufficient growth conditions, low temperature treatment of 10℃ can promote flower bud differentiation of some species. The sunlight is neutral, and strong direct sunlight, high temperature and dryness are avoided. It likes moist and loose soil, and the optimal pH value is 6.0-7.0.

2. Propagation and cultivation

are mainly propagated by sowing, and can also be propagated by division.

(1) Sowing method Primula seeds have a short lifespan and should be sown in time after harvesting. The normal seed germination rate is about 40%. Sowing in June and July.

Pass the soil through a fine sieve and put it into the seedling tray. After slightly compacting and flattening, water it with a watering can, spread it, and cover it with 0.1-0.2 cm of soil. After sowing, place the seedling tray in a cool place. The temperature of the soil should be controlled between 15 and 21°C. Seedlings will emerge after 10 days. When there are two leaves, you can dig a trench and transplant them once, or directly use a container to cultivate them into seedlings. In the summer seedling stage, proper shade and ventilation should be provided, and the soil should be kept moist. When the seedlings grow up

, they should be planted in a 16 cm diameter pot. (2) Division method In autumn, pour the primrose from the pot and carry out division propagation. Each sub-plant has 2-3 buds. Then transplant it into a container with a diameter of 8 cm for cultivation, or directly plant it in a pot with a diameter of 16 cm for cultivation. Division propagation can maintain the characteristics of excellent varieties and double-petal varieties.

Primrose seedlings are easily damaged by aphids and spider mites, so you should pay attention to prevention.

3. Uses

Primula plants have a long flowering period and are important greenhouse potted flowers in winter and spring. Among them, the more cold-resistant and adaptable species are also often used in flower beds and rock gardens, and a few species can be used as cut flowers.

3. Impatiens hlostii Impatiens 

hlostii, also known as He's Impatiens, Glass Jade, and Impatiens of the Balsamaceae family, is a perennial evergreen herb native to tropical East Africa. Because of its luxuriant branches and leaves, elegant leaves and flowers, long flowering period, and easy survival, it has become an excellent potted flower that combines leaf viewing and flower viewing. In recent years, influenced by advanced foreign countries, Impatiens hlostii has become a new type of flower bed bulk flower species, and has a strong development momentum. Therefore, it can be developed as a very potential variety, and can also be planted in groups, single planting, hanging pots or hanging bags. It can be cultivated as a perennial in highland cold areas and can be planted under the shade of trees in summer. Generally, only a single color is used as a color band, and no mixed colors are used.

(I) Botanical characteristics

The plant is 20-30 cm tall, with many branches and a compact shape. The whole plant is soft and fleshy. The stem is crystal clear, smooth and hairless, hence the name "glass jade". The leaves are bright green and beautiful. The lower leaves are alternate, and the upper leaves are whorled. They are ovate-lanceolate and have fleshy short petioles. The leaf margins have sharp teeth, the flowers are large, and the flower diameter is 4-8 cm. They grow alone or in clusters of 2-3 in the axils of leaves. The flowers are peculiar in shape, equidistant and slender, and bend upward like a flying phoenix. They are very unique. The standard petals are broad and inverted heart-shaped. The flowering period is long and the flower colors are rich. As long as the temperature is suitable, the flowers can bloom all year round.

(III) Habits It

likes warm and humid climates, is not cold-resistant, afraid of frost, relatively shade-tolerant, avoids exposure to the sun, is not drought-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging, and has no strict requirements on soil. It grows well in loose and fertile soil. The temperature in summer is too high, making it difficult to survive the summer.

(III) Preparation for sowing period

The base content (E value) of the sowing matrix should be less than 0.75, and the pH value of the matrix should be 6.2-6.5. Too low pH value (less than 5.5) will cause the tender tip to fall off and ammonium poisoning. The matrix is ​​preferably peat soil with vermiculite or perlite, and the Nongyou "Zhuangmiao No. 1" seedling medium can be used.

(IV) Sowing

period The sowing period can generally be carried out throughout the year, but it is difficult to survive the summer when the temperature is high in summer. The most suitable sowing period is from March to May and from August to October. During the sowing period, a layer of vermiculite should be covered on the seeds to retain moisture, or the soil can be left uncovered. They will germinate quickly and neatly when exposed to light, and grow strong. After sowing, a layer of plastic film should be directly covered on the sowing tray to retain moisture. The color of the matrix should be shiny black. At this time, the EC value of the matrix should be 0.5-0.75. The optimal germination temperature is 22-25℃. Exceeding 25℃ will cause the seeds to enter thermal dormancy, thereby hindering germination. Temperatures below 21°C will reduce the germination speed and uniformity of germination, and temperatures below 18°C ​​will cause the tips to fall off. Light is a necessary condition for germination. The amount of light in the germination room is preferably 10-100 foot candles (10-1000 lux), and more than 8 hours of light per day are guaranteed. If necessary, apply 25ppm calcium nitrate to promote root growth and strengthen the flower stems.

(V) Seedling stage

1. From seed germination to the appearance of true leaves,

attention should be paid to improving the survival rate of seedlings. Temperatures below 18°C ​​and soaked substrates will cause the tips to fall off and the leaves to deform. Because ethylene is produced in this process, the moisture content of the substrate should be reduced at this time to allow the roots to penetrate deep into the substrate. The substrate should be slightly moistened, but not completely soaked. Water as early as possible during the day and maintain a good ventilation environment. If the tips are in a humid environment for more than 4 hours, they will cause the tips to fall off or even die. Maintain the substrate temperature at 22-24°C. If the Impatiens seedlings grow too fast, lower the night temperature to 20°C. Two weeks of additional light of 350-450 foot candles will promote stronger plants and more active growth, but light for more than two weeks will cause yellow leaves to appear. Apply 25-35ppm calcium fertilizer when the cotyledons are flat. Do not apply phosphorus fertilizer, otherwise it will cause the leaves to extend outward, and the infiltration of phosphoric acid will affect the quality of the plant. In addition, 1000ppm nitrogen fertilizer will promote plant growth.

2. From the emergence of true leaves to planting, scientific management of watering and nutrients will improve the quality of the plant. At this time, the root system is very active. Underdeveloped roots or transparent stems indicate that the substrate is too wet. The plant height is preferably 3-4 cm, so water management should allow the substrate to undergo a dry-wet cycle every 24 hours to coordinate plant growth and root oxygen acquisition. Too much water will lead to too rapid growth, and lack of water will lead to yellow leaves. The substrate temperature should be maintained at 20-22℃, the substrate EC value should be between 0.75-1.0, and the light should be less than 2000 foot candles. Too much light will cause the leaves to burn, and low light can cause the leaves to fully extend. Apply 75-100ppm of calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate mixed fertilizer (l4-0-14) every 2-4 weeks. A small amount of fertilizer can make the plant strong and bloom earlier. The focus of this period should be on the growth coordination of seedlings. In addition, African impatiens is easy to bloom in small seedlings, and the lateral buds have strong germination power. It can grow while flowering, which has no effect on later growth.

(VI)

The substrate pH value during the growth period is preferably 6.2-6.5, and the substrate nutrients should not be too much. The EC value is between 0.75-1.0. In the later stage, apply 75-100ppm of calcium nitrate 2-3 times. The minimum amount of chemical fertilizer can make the plant strong and bloom earlier. If the plant is tall, grows vigorously, blooms under the leaves or blooms too late, it means that too much fertilizer is used. Humidity management should be carried out in a dry-wet cycle. Too much water will cause the plant to grow too fast. The temperature is 16-19℃ at night and 21-24℃ during the day. It should be placed in a cool place. After transplantation, Impatiens is sensitive to growth regulators and can be watered. The comprehensive use of light and fertilizers can control growth. Potted plants should be pruned in time to make the plants round and concentrated. The flowering period is more afraid of heavy rain and excessive watering. The petals are very sensitive to drugs and fertilizers. In terms of pests and diseases, focus on the prevention and control of aphids, thrips, red spiders, fall disease, root rot and viral diseases.

Section 4 Greenhouse Perennial Flowers 
1. Araceae Plants
Araceae plants occupy an important position among shade-loving ornamental plants. Its leaves are beautiful and peculiar in shape, and its flowers are gorgeous and durable. In addition to being used for indoor viewing, they can also be used as cut flowers, cut leaves, and used to make flower baskets and bouquets. There are many species, about 100 genera and more than 1,500 species. Distributed in tropical areas. The most special feature of this family is its "spa inflorescence", which has a fleshy, thick and straight inflorescence axis, which is usually upright and densely covered with bisexual or unisexual small flowers, called spadix. There is a leaf-like bract at the base of the spadix, called spathe. After flowering, fleshy berries are produced.

Ornamental Araceae plants can be divided into two categories: one is evergreen, such as Anthurium, Monstera, Dieffenbachia, etc. The other is the one with withered leaves during the dormant period, such as Caladium and Calla Lily. The cultivation and management of these two categories are slightly different, which will be mentioned separately below.

Many Araceae plants are vine plants. In addition to the normal underground root system, aerial roots are easily generated at the nodes of the aboveground stems, which are used to cling to objects and absorb moisture from the air. During the growth period, shade is generally required, and direct sunlight is not suitable. Since it grows in tropical areas, it requires high-temperature cultivation, and the required temperature varies depending on the species. The cultivation soil is preferably fertile, loose, permeable, and slightly acidic (pH 5.5-7.0) loam. Generally, it is a mixture of leaf mold, turf soil or peat soil in a ratio of 1:1, and then an appropriate amount of sand and dry livestock manure are added to make it. Fertilizers are dried livestock manure as base fertilizer, and bean cake water is used as topdressing. Complete fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are required, but plants with variegated leaves for ornamental purposes, such as Dieffenbachia, should use less nitrogen fertilizer. When using chemical fertilizers, a dilute solution (0.1%) must be used. For water requirements, sufficient water and high humidity are required during the growth period. For dormant species, water should be gradually reduced after flowering to induce dormancy. For species that do not dormant in winter, watering should also be reduced on days with low temperatures. In addition to watering, spraying water is very important for Araceae plants. Spraying water can increase the evaporation area, increase air humidity, and keep the leaves clean. Generally, water should be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day during the growing season. Evergreen potted plants are generally repotted once every 2 to 3 years, between spring and summer. After repotting, they should be placed in a ventilated place, shaded, and sprayed with water frequently. Keep the soil moist, and do general cultivation after rooting and leafing. For dormant species, it should be carried out when the underground stems begin to sprout.

The propagation methods of Araceae plants include division, cuttings, and sowing. Sowing seeds are generally not easy to obtain, but they are easy to bear fruit after artificial pollination. Seeds will not mature until one year later, and they should be sown immediately after they mature. Clean the seeds when sowing, because the peel is often contaminated with bacteria, which makes the seeds moldy. Sow in a shallow pot, the soil should be loose, breathable sandy leaf humus, but it must be disinfected, slightly covered to keep moist, the temperature should be stable between 24 and 29 degrees Celsius, and the seeds will germinate after 1 to 2 weeks. When the seedlings grow to the point where they can be transplanted by hand, they can be transplanted and planted in small pots. After transplantation, high humidity needs to be maintained, and ventilation should be gradually given after new roots grow. If mold grows in the pot soil before the seeds germinate, 0.1% chlorothalonil or thiophanate can be used for irrigation.

Division propagation is generally carried out between January and February. When dividing the plant, carefully remove the plant from the pot, remove the soil around the root system, and do not damage the root system. According to the growth of the plant, divide and pot it separately, place it in a shaded, unventilated, and humid place, and wait for it to take root and grow leaves, and then cultivate it as usual. Plants with a dormant period, such as calamus, need to be repotted and divided into bulbs when the growing season is about to begin.

For cutting propagation, the stem can be cut into several sections, each section is 8 to 12 cm, each section needs to have 1 to 2 nodes, and there are buds on the nodes. After the mucus on the cut is dried, it is inserted into the sand bed. The temperature is maintained at 30℃, and roots can be formed after 1 to 2 weeks. For some species with aerial roots, such as Monstera and Philodendron, they can be planted in pots after being cut into several sections, and there is no need to grow roots in the sand bed.



(I) Aglaonema modestum 
1. Ecological habits

Aglaonema modestum, also known as Guangdong Evergreen, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Aglaonema. It is not cold-resistant and afraid of summer heat. It needs to maintain a room temperature above 12℃ in winter. Once the leaves fall, it will die; the suitable temperature for growth is 20 to 28℃. It likes a humid environment and is afraid of direct sunlight. It can grow in the shade all year round. The leaves will turn white and then yellow after being exposed to the sun for a short time; the leaves will turn yellow and lose their luster in dry air. It likes acidic humus soil with strong water retention, is extremely resistant to water and humidity, and is not resistant to salinity and drought.

2. Propagation and cultivation

can be propagated by cutting and division.

① Cutting propagation Cutting should be carried out between May and June or in September. Cut the stems from 0.6 to 1 cm below the nodes. The cuttings can be long or short, but not less than 4 nodes. Keep the 2 leaves at the tip and insert them into clean plain sandy soil. The depth of the soil is 4 to 5 cm. Always keep it moist and place it in a shaded place. It will take root in 15 to 20 days at room temperature of about 20℃. You can also cut the tip of the stems of 15 cm long and directly insert them into clean water. Change the water every 2 days, and it can also take root from the nodes.

② Division propagation In mid-to-late April, remove the perennial old plants from the pots, shake off the outer soil, cut off the underground rhizomes connected between the stems, and plant them in pots separately. It is very easy to survive.

Acidic humus soil with strong water retention should be used for potting. In order to improve its ornamental value, it can be directly planted in a cylindrical porcelain pot or purple clay pot of moderate size, and the pot should be repotted and the soil changed every 2 to 3 years. Shade maintenance should be carried out throughout the year, and the pot soil should always be kept moist. Liquid fertilizer should be applied every 15 to 20 days in spring and autumn. In summer, ventilation should be strengthened to prevent heatstroke and cool down, and the withered and yellow old leaves under the stems should be cut off in time. It can safely overwinter in a room with heating equipment.

Thick rib grass can also be hydroponically cultivated. Cut the stem segment and insert it into the water. After rooting, continue to cultivate it in a water bottle, or wash the soil on the roots after removing the potted plants from the pots, and then soak them in a transparent glass vase. Change the water every 2 to 3 days, so that the fresh white roots can appear through the bottle wall, and it is quite beautiful with the green stems and leaves. In order to make it thrive in water, the nutrient solution should be changed every 10 days. You can also use 1/2 potassium dihydrogen phosphate and ammonium sulfate, dilute it with water 1000 to 15000 times, and use it.

3. Use:

Indoor potted plants for viewing leaves.

(II) Monstera deliciosa 
1. Ecological habits

Monstera deliciosa is also known as Penglaijiao, Monstera banana, Monstera taro, Electric wire grass, etc. It is a perennial plant of the genus Monstera.

Monstera deliciosa likes cool and humid climatic conditions, is not cold-resistant, and the room temperature in winter must not be lower than 10℃. It is not resistant to high temperatures. When the temperature rises above 32℃, the growth stops, and the optimal growth temperature is 22-26℃. It is resistant to strong shade, and the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry under direct sunlight. It can be displayed in bright rooms all year round. It requires deep and water-retaining humus soil, and the pH value should be between 6.5 and 7.5. It is neither alkali-resistant nor acid-resistant.

Monstera deliciosa is afraid of dryness and water-resistant. It requires high soil humidity and high air humidity. If the air is dry, the leaves will lose their luster, the leaf edges will burn, and the growth will slow down. Aerial roots can directly absorb nitrogen from the air. In order to make the stems firm and the leaves upright, fertilization should be mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

2. Propagation

and cultivation Propagation is done by sowing and cuttings

(1) After sowing, the temperature must be kept at 20-25℃. The growth rate of seedlings is very slow, and it takes five or six years to reach the level of display and ornamental.

(2) Cutting propagation Monstera has only one main stem. As new leaves grow, the stems continue to extend forward, and side branches rarely occur. Therefore, a mother plant for propagation should be reserved in the productive flower garden. When the main stem grows to more than 1 meter, it is cut 15-20 cm above the ground as cuttings. After a period of time, the hidden buds on the mother plant sprout and produce two side stems, which can be cut as cuttings after they grow longer. Repeat this cycle, and there will be more and more propagation materials.

Cuttings of Monstera need to use peat with strong water retention as the substrate, and mix it with 1/3 large-grained river sand. Cut into cuttings according to 2-3 sections, and do not damage the leaf scars. The first section of the stem contains new leaf primordia, the middle section has leaves but no new leaf primordia, and the lower section has no leaves. They should be treated differently when cutting. The first section should be cut upright, the middle section should have 1/2 of its leaves cut off and inserted obliquely, and the lower section can be buried flat in a larger container.

No matter which cutting method is used, the aerial roots of the internodes must be cut off from the base before cutting. Cuttings are carried out in late spring and early summer. After cutting, place it in a well-ventilated place with backlight for maintenance, keep the pot soil moist, and spray water into the air every day to increase the air humidity.

When potting, use leaf humus as the substrate and mix in 3% to 4% superphosphate to provide sufficient phosphorus fertilizer, so that no topdressing is required in the future. The soil should be changed once in early spring every year, and the pot should be changed once every two years. If it is used for family living room furnishings, try not to change it into a large pot. Except for more sunshine in winter, it should be shaded and maintained throughout the year. The principle of "better wet than dry" should be followed, and water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

Monstera does not need artificial shaping. If the stem is too high and cannot stand upright, it can be placed against the wall, or a thick bamboo pole can be inserted to support it, or stem cutting can be performed to allow the mother plant to sprout new stems and leaves again.

In large indoor gardens, it can be planted near indoor rockery and allowed to grow upward along the rocks. Apply 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate diluted solution 2 to 3 times in spring and summer each year. When the main stem grows to about 1.5m, it is topped to promote the sprouting of side branches. The side branches are topped once every 2 to 3 years. In this way, the branches and vines will grow more and more, and the coverage of the plant will continue to expand, thus creating a magnificent landscape of tropical rain forests.

3. It is an

excellent indoor potted foliage plant, and can also be used as a large indoor vertical greening material.

2. Bromeliaceae plants
Bromeliaceae plants are a very large group, with about 46 genera and more than 2,000 species, some of which can be cultivated for horticulture. It not only has beautiful flowers, but also beautiful leaves, and is deeply loved by people.

Bromeliaceae plants are mainly distributed in the rainforest area of ​​South America and the coastal forest belt with many reefs. From the eastern Atlantic to the western Pacific, as well as the tropical high temperature and high humidity areas of the West Indies and the Caribbean islands. It can be divided into: epiphytic bromeliads, when the young plants gradually grow, the slender and tough roots are attached to the bark and extend along the surface of the trunk. Most of the cultivated bromeliads are of this type. Non-epiphytic bromeliads (terrestrial) are generally grown in open, warm and sunny places without any shade, and the leaf edges often have sharp thorns and hooked serrations. Epiphytic bromeliads are the most distinctive landscape in the American forests.

The leaves of bromeliads are colorful, including red, yellow, green, pink, brown, purple, etc. Many species have longitudinal stripes or transverse stripes or transverse bands of different colors; some leaves are covered with silver-gray spots or hairs, which are considered to be an adaptation to the transpiration rate of the leaves. The leaves vary in shape and size, and even the varieties of the same genus often have very different appearances. Most bromeliads grown indoors have no stems. The leaves are bent and drooped in a ribbon-like shape, herbaceous, and arranged in rosettes. The flower stems are generally quite long and drawn out from the center, with a spike inflorescence at the top of the stem. Some rosettes have loose structures and the leaves are roughly arranged in a circle. Other rosettes are arranged longitudinally in a tubular shape. The bases of the leaves of most species overlap each other tightly, forming a permeable tissue that acts as a "water reservoir" or "sink". The diameter of the "sink" is only a few centimeters at the smallest and tens of centimeters at the largest, and the water storage capacity can reach 5 liters. The "water trough" can not only store water to prevent drought, but also because fallen leaves, insects or animal excrement often fall into it, dissolving water into fertilizer, which is then absorbed by the scaly hairs at the base of the "water trough". The function of the rosette leaf cluster of epiphytic bromeliads to absorb nutrients and water is far greater than that of the root system. The root system is mainly responsible for fixing the growth of the plant. Some even have no roots or only a few roots, which are used to grasp the attachment rather than to absorb nutrients. The ornamental pineapples currently cultivated in home gardening also need to store water in the "water trough" to meet the needs of growth. The currently cultivated species are edible pineapples, which are rarely cultivated. The common ones are a few species such as the gorgeous pineapple.

On the surface of the leaves, a microscopic tissue called "absorption scales" can be seen under a microscope, with the most water stored at the base of the leaves. This tissue can absorb water and nutrients, so thin liquid fertilizer is often applied (sprayed) on the leaf surface instead of watering. It can promote development. Simply put, this plant absorbs nutrients from both roots and leaves.

Bromeliaceae plants can bloom almost all year round. The flowers are generally brightly colored, and some are often covered by beautiful bright red or pink bracts. Before and during the flowering period, the colors often become very bright. Plants that have bloomed will no longer bloom, and will gradually wither after the flowers fade (except for the genus Dickia). However, around the flowering period, 2 to 3 daughter plants will emerge from the leaves at the base of the plant. These daughter plants can bloom normally during the flowering period. Similarly, daughter plants that have bloomed will also sprout from the leaves at the bottom. In horticultural cultivation, after the daughter plants grow to a certain extent, they are cut off. The mother plant of the daughter plant will produce 2 to 3 more daughter plants. This repeated treatment can make a mother plant produce about 10 daughter plants within one and a half to two years. The flowering plants still need to continue to be fertilized and properly managed after the flowering period.

The flowering period varies depending on the species. If you want to promote flowering outside the natural flowering period, you can soak 10 grams of stone in 1000 ml of water, pour this solution into the groove at the central growth point of the plant, and then produce ethylene gas. As long as the plant is large enough, it can bloom again in a few months, achieving the purpose of controlling the flowering time in advance. Apple and melon fruits will naturally produce ethylene during the ripening process, and the ethylene produced by this fruit can also make pineapples bloom. However, only pineapples use ethylene to bloom, and this must be paid special attention to.

The water needed for the growth and development of pineapple plants is stored in the cup-shaped groove formed by the clustered leaves. Even if the root system is injured, as long as there is enough water stored in the cup-shaped groove, its growth will not be greatly affected. It likes loose and well-permeable substrates, and fertilizers need to be applied once every 15 days or so during the growth and development period.

After the ornamental pineapple blooms, the mother plant withers and dies, but at this time, sucker buds have naturally formed around the rhizosphere. When they grow to a certain size, they can be separated and planted separately. In addition to this method of reproduction, it can also be propagated by crown buds at the top of the fruit or by sowing.

Bromeliaceae plants prefer warm, humid and bright diffuse light environment.

There are many species of bromeliads, with bright colors. The flowering period is generally short, but the fruiting period is long, and the fruit color is bright.

(I) Cryptanthus aculis 
1. Ecological habits

Cryptanthus aculis, also known as purple brocade pineapple and starfish flower, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Cryptanthus. It is a petite foliage pineapple. It has strong adaptability to the environment and can grow well in bright light and slightly dark conditions. It likes humid air, but the soil should not be too humid.

2. Propagation and cultivation

It is usually propagated by splitting sucking buds and cuttings. It takes nearly 100 days for the cuttings to take root.

Use leaf mold or peat soil with a small amount of river sand as potting soil; it can also be potted with materials such as moss and fern roots. Use a smaller shallow pot for planting or as a plant material for bottle scenery, and plant it in a bottle.

Because the rosette-shaped leaves of Cryptanthus aculis are flat, the leaf tube stores less water and has poor drought resistance. During the growing season, it is necessary to spray water on the leaves and maintain a high air humidity. Water less in winter and keep the pot soil slightly moist. It likes a light and shade environment. In greenhouse cultivation, about 50% of the sunlight should be blocked in spring, summer and autumn; no shading in winter. If the light is too dark, the stripes and colors on the leaves will become dim and eventually disappear. The suitable temperature in winter is 15-22℃. It is easy to be harmed when it is below 10℃. Apply liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks during the vigorous growth period.

3. Uses It

can be used for miniature potted ornamental plants, mainly for viewing leaves. It can also be used for bottle planting and landscape box planting.

(II) Colorful pineapple Neoregelia caroline 
1. Ecological habits

Colorful pineapple, also known as shy pineapple and colorful leaf pineapple, is a perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Bromelia. Before flowering, the central leaf turns red, and the inflorescence is clustered and buried in the groove in the center of the red leaf. It blooms during the Spring Festival, but only for one night, so the ornamental value of the flower is not high. The main ornamental part is the red leaves, and the ornamental period is 3-4 months. There is no obvious dormancy period. As long as the environmental conditions are suitable, it can grow all year round. The most suitable growth temperature is 22-25℃; it should be kept above 15℃ for wintering, and it will stop growing if it is below 15℃; it will be harmed if it is below 10℃ for a long time.

2. Reproduction and cultivation

It is usually propagated by division. In early spring, each pot can be divided into 2 or several pots. The separated new plants should have their own roots. The rooting ability of the sucker buds of the colorful pineapple is slightly poor, and it must be divided after the sucker buds have grown roots. For commercial mass production, tissue culture is mostly used for reproduction.

Moss, fern roots, bark blocks, etc. are used as potting substrates for greenhouse cultivation. Loose leaf mold and peat soil can be used for potting at home. The bottom of the pot should be filled with granular broken bricks and other objects at a depth of 1/4 to 1/3 to facilitate drainage. Apply liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks in spring, summer and autumn. You can also apply fertilizer on the leaves. The fertilizer concentration is 1/2 of the root fertilizer concentration. The pot soil should be kept moist at all times, but water should not accumulate or be too wet. And spray water on the leaves and irrigate the leaf tubes frequently. It likes more sunlight, and the leaf color is more colorful when the sunlight is strong. You can first cultivate beautiful leaf color under strong sunlight, and then move it to a bright room for appreciation.

3. Uses It

can be used for potted viewing.

(III) Yingge pineapple Vriesea carinata 
1. Ecological habits

Yingge pineapple is a perennial evergreen epiphytic herb of the genus Lisui pineapple. The involucre is large and bright, and is an important ornamental part. It likes warmth and is relatively cold-resistant; it likes semi-shade; it requires a loose, ventilated and well-drained substrate; it is not drought-resistant.

2. Propagation and cultivation

Yingge pineapple is strong and easy to cultivate. It is propagated by cuttings from the buds at the base of the plant. The culture soil should be loose, breathable and well-drained. The substrate made of fern root pieces, leaf humus and peat soil is better. Indoor cultivation should be placed in a bright place. It is not drought-resistant. It needs to be watered fully in summer. Water twice a day on sunny days, and keep the leaf cup constantly clean. Fertilizer should be applied frequently. The winter temperature should not be lower than 5℃.

3. Use

Yingge pineapple is small and exquisite, with beautiful flowers and leaves. It can be used for potted ornamental and cut flowers.

III. Ferns
(I) Overview

In recent years, people have become more and more interested in foliage plants, especially ferns. It represents a major trend of foliage plants. With its beautiful and unique shape, it has swept the world and is deeply loved by people.

There are about 12,000 modern ferns, which are widely distributed all over the world, especially in tropical and subtropical regions. There are about 2,500 species, many of which are ornamental. It is not only an ideal plant for beautifying modern courtyards and rooms, but also an excellent material for flower arrangement and interior decoration. Japanese, Europeans and Americans regard ferns as a symbol of nobility and elegance. They are proud to have several pots of ferns in their living rooms, courtyards, hotels, offices and parks. For this reason, these countries have established many companies and nurseries specializing in the production of ornamental ferns. Although the flower industry has developed greatly in recent years, the development of ferns is almost blank. It was not until 1991 that the Fern Society was established to conduct research. According to the development of the situation, there will be a wave of planting ferns in China. Therefore, it is very urgent to promote and popularize their cultivation methods.

(II) Characteristics of ferns Ferns 
are also called higher spore plants. There are terrestrial, epiphytic, rarely aquatic, upright or rarely twining and climbing perennial herbs, or sometimes tall trees; sporophytes, which are usually called green ferns, usually have differentiation of roots, stems and leaves (except pine fern). The body shape of the sporophyte is the most diverse in the modern plant kingdom. Some are large and tree-like, while others are as small as 0.5 square centimeters, but most are medium-sized perennial herbs. The sporophyte has many sporangia, which contain spores. The sporangia of the most primitive ferns grow at the top of the branches, some grow on specialized leaves or leaves (receptacles) in spike-like or conical sacs, some grow on the edges of the sporophylls, and some grow in clusters at the top of the branches or under the sporophylls. Spores are divided into type I and type II. Type II has two types of sporophylls, large and small, on the sporophyte. The megasporophyte has megasporangia, which contain megaspores; the microsporophyte has microsporangia, which contain microspores. Most modern ferns belong to type I. When the spores mature, they are scattered from the sporangium, and after falling to the ground, they germinate and grow into thick leaves, called gametophytes. The male and female gametophytes are born on the top. After fertilization, gametes are produced, which grow and develop into green sporophytes, which can also be called growing ferns. Sporangia are produced on its fronds, which produce spores. The spores fall to the ground and germinate and develop into prothallus. The sporophyte of the spore generation and the gametophyte of the gamete generation alternate with each other for one generation, completing the life cycle of the fern. 

(III) Key points for the cultivation and management of ferns 
1. Light

Plants need light for photosynthesis. Usually, ferns are afraid of direct and hot strong light and require shade. However, the requirements for light are different in different growth stages: in the early growth stage, i.e. the sprouting stage, it is necessary to prevent excessive sunlight and provide more shade; in the dormant stage, it must be placed in a well-lit place. Generally speaking, most ferns prefer filtered, indirect or reflected scattered light. If there is insufficient light, the plant will grow too long and appear thin, weak or drooping.

2. Temperature The

temperature range suitable for the growth of ferns varies depending on the environment of their native habitat. Generally speaking, the optimum growth temperature for ferns originating from tropical regions is 21-27℃, and 12-15℃ is required in winter. If the temperature is below 10℃, the growth will stop. The optimum growth temperature for ferns originating from temperate or subtropical regions is 16-21℃, and the lowest temperature that can be tolerated in winter is 7℃. It is not a problem to survive the winter in most parts of Guangdong, but it is difficult to endure the scorching heat in midsummer. Ferns grown in the open air in the north can tolerate low temperatures of -16-20℃ in winter. Generally, they belong to semi-cold-resistant species, with a suitable growth temperature of 19-24℃. They are easily damaged by frost in winter below 10℃, and are suitable for indoor cultivation in most parts of Guangdong.

3. Humidity and watering

Ferns prefer humidity and require high air humidity and soil humidity, which is especially important during the seedling stage. Potted ferns must be watered and sprayed with water on the leaves every day during the growing period; those planted on the ground must be sprinkled with water to maintain humidity, especially at night. If the plant wilts due to lack of water, it must be treated immediately by soaking the pot in clean water and spraying the aboveground part. If the lack of water is not very serious, it can recover in a few hours. If the drooping leaves have not recovered within 24 hours, it is difficult to recover. Only by cutting off all the wilted leaves on the aboveground part can new leaves sprout again. If the aboveground part turns yellow first and then wilts, it may be due to overwatering and poor soil drainage. In this case, the whole plant must be pulled out, the rotten roots must be trimmed, and replanted.

It is best to water in the morning rather than in the evening. If the leaves are broken and fragmented, you must pay more attention. If water droplets are retained between the leaves, evaporation is slow, and it is easy to cause leaf rot.

4. Ventilation

Ferns are most afraid of stuffiness and need more ventilation in summer. For example, if the maidenhair fern wants to keep its leaves dark green, it must be given more air and light. Ventilation and maintaining air humidity are contradictory. Therefore, you must pay attention to the supply of water during ventilation to ensure that the air is not too dry and has appropriate fresh air. During the seedling stage, you must pay attention to avoid "through-the-hallway drafts".

5. Soil and fertilizer

The soil should be rich in organic matter, loose and permeable. Generally, peat soil, leaf humus, perlite or coarse sand are mixed in a ratio of 2:1:1, or compost, coarse sand or perlite are mixed in a ratio of 1:1.

Basal fertilizer can be added to the soil, and slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.0) is the most suitable (some ferns, such as the whip-leaf maidenhair fern, the group-feathered maidenhair fern, and the long-leafed grass fern

, prefer calcareous soil). Ferns like fertilizer, and decomposed manure can be added to the soil when potting. Chemical solutions can be used as topdressing when necessary during the growth period, but the concentration should not exceed 1%, and at most once a week.

6. Repotting

Potted ferns need to be repotted after 2-3 years. The time for repotting is generally from February to August, but be careful not to damage the roots. When repotting, first place a layer of broken bricks about 2 cm thick at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage, and then spread charcoal about 2 cm thick to absorb excess salt and toxic gases remaining in the soil. Then add a layer of bone meal (rich in phosphorus fertilizer) to facilitate root growth. After placing the plant in the pot, fill it with the soil of the above formula. Do not fill it too full so that there is space for water to remain when watering and slowly penetrate downward.

Reproduction is mainly by division. Spores can also be used for sowing and seedlings. It can be done all year round, but it is best in June and July. Old plants can be divided in May. Mature spores can also be collected for pot sowing.

(IV) Staghorn Fern 

1. Ecological habits



Scientific name Platycerium bifurcatum C.Chr.

Also known as bat fern.

Family: Polypodiaceae, Staghorn Fern genus.

Morphology: Perennial epiphytic herb with fleshy rhizomes, plant height can reach 1m. There are two types of leaves, one is "naked leaves" (sterile leaves), round and shield-shaped, 20cm in diameter, with wavy edges, green-white, and later brown; the other is "real leaves" (fertile leaves), triangular, clustered, drooping, 60-90cm long, gray-green when young, dark green when mature; the tip is wide and forked, shaped like deer antlers, and the spore sacs are scattered at the top of the forked fissures. The spores mature in summer.

Habits are native to Australia; introduced and cultivated in various places. Under natural conditions, it grows epiphytically on tree trunk branches or cracks, moist rocks or peat. It likes high temperature, humidity and semi-shady environments, and the roots must be ventilated and breathable. It is drought-resistant and not cold-resistant; it requires a loose and well-ventilated cultivation substrate.

2. Reproduction and cultivation

are mainly based on division. It can be carried out throughout the year, but it is best from June to July. Division of old plants is carried out in May. Mature spores can also be collected for pot sowing.

Uses: The leaves are large and beautiful, green all year round, and are good foliage flowers. They are suitable for hanging planting or planting on tree trunks.

4. Asparagus plumosus 
1. Ecological habits

Asparagus plumosus is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Asparagus in the Liliaceae family. Also known as cloud bamboo and mountain grass. It likes warm and humid climate conditions. It is neither cold-resistant nor afraid of heat. The room temperature in winter must not be lower than 10℃, and it will freeze to death below 5℃. If the room temperature exceeds 32℃ in summer, the growth stops and the leaves turn yellow. It is also quite strict in terms of lighting conditions. It cannot be shaded all year round, nor can it withstand exposure to the sun. It will turn yellow and wither after being exposed to the sun for half a day. In a poorly ventilated environment, a large number of flowers will fall and no fruit will be produced.

The root system of asparagus fern is fleshy fibrous roots, and it has strict requirements on soil. It can only grow normally in loose, fertile and well-ventilated soil. It is not resistant to salt and alkali, nor to strong acid. It is not drought-resistant, but also afraid of waterlogging.

2. Propagation and cultivation

(1) Seeding method: Gradually pick the fruit after the peel turns black and soft, rub off the pulp, scoop it out with water, dry it and store it for later use. Sow in early April and sell or display it in the autumn of the same year. Most of them are sown in "seedling shallow" pots or wooden boxes. Place the seeds on the pot soil at a distance of 2 to 2.5 cm, 2 to 2 seeds per hole. After sowing, cover with 0.5 cm of fine sand, then water it thoroughly with a fine-meshed watering can, cover it with glass, place it in a light-filled place indoors, and keep the pot soil moist.

The seeds of asparagus fern germinate slowly, and it takes about 40 days to emerge. If the room temperature is low, some may take 2 months to emerge. After germination, shade the seeds and remove the glass. The pot soil should be alternately dry and wet. When the seedlings grow to more than 4 cm, move them with the soil ball into small flower pots such as "bull's eye" or "No. 3 tube".

(2) Division method: Asparagus fern has a strong clumping ability and can continuously sprout root suckers from the rhizosphere, making the plant clump continue to expand. The plants can be separated and potted in combination with repotting and soil change.

(3) Cutting method: When the temperature is 20-30℃, use the outer branches of lush asparagus fern as cuttings. First, dig up the surface soil, and use the tip of a knife to make a small cut in the cortex about 5mm above the root-stem junction. Expose it in a ventilated place for half a day, then apply a layer of clean moss, and pay attention to spraying it frequently for moisture. After about 12 days, remove the moss. Tumor-like healing tissue will appear at the scar of the branch. At this time, use a knife to cut the branch close to the root, use the two branches at the bottom of this branch and trim them slightly, and immediately insert them into the substrate. The substrate is river sand. The cutting depth is about 2cm. The cutting bed is placed in a windproof and shaded place. Roots will grow after 3 weeks, and new branches will begin to grow after 5 weeks. The humidity of the cutting substrate is the key. Water it in time, but avoid excessive water. Spray the branches with moisture in the morning and evening.

When cultivating asparagus fern at home, do not use a large pot. The small plant shape is not only convenient for display, but also intriguing. When potting, you should use a culture soil rich in humus, preferably leaf humus, and enlarge the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. Repot and change the soil once in early spring every year. When the root system covers the entire pot, change to a larger pot and tear off the black roots on the periphery. From the third year, branches and vines begin to grow. At this time, you should change to a larger pot and insert a bracket for the stems and vines to climb.

Asparagus fern can only be used for indoor display. It should not be exposed to direct sunlight in spring and summer. In late autumn and winter, it should be placed near the south window to see more sunlight. Do not fertilize too much before flowering. Liquid fertilizer can be applied 2 to 3 times from May to June and September to October respectively. The amount of watering should be flexibly controlled according to the size of the plant.

Asparagus fern over 3 years old begins to enter the reproductive stage. If you want it to bear a lot of fruit, you should plant it under the top window of the greenhouse and set up a small shed for the stems and vines to climb. Bamboo curtains should be placed on the glass roof to provide shade. After flowering, open the top window for ventilation. Close the window to prevent rain on rainy days. To make potted asparagus fern bear fruit in large quantities, first, it should be planted in a large flower pot with fertilized culture soil to expand the nutrient area. Four-year-old asparagus fern should be planted in a "three-hoop" pot, and six-year-old should be planted in a "bucket" pot, and a bracket should be inserted at the same time. Topdressing should be strengthened in spring, and heatstroke prevention and cooling should be carried out in summer. Topdressing should be stopped after flowering, and heavy watering should be avoided. Pay attention to rain, dust and smoke prevention. In particular, ventilation should be strengthened, and water should not be sprayed on the plant, otherwise a large number of flowers will fall. Do not water or topdress in large quantities during the young fruit stage, otherwise the fruit will fall. Strengthen fertilizer and water management after the fruit is formed. The room temperature should be kept above 18℃ in winter, and it should be exposed to sunlight more often.

3. Use

Indoor potted plants for viewing leaves or cutting leaves.

V. Clivia

(I) Ecological habits

Clivia is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the Amaryllidaceae family. There are three species in the same genus, and two species are cultivated for ornamental purposes. The one with broad leaves and large flowers is called the large-flowered Clivia. The one with narrow leaves and drooping flowers is called the drooping Clivia, which is native to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa. Clivia is an important greenhouse flower.

The optimum growth temperature is 15-20℃, and growth is inhibited below 10℃. It can withstand short-term low temperatures of 0℃, and it is easy to grow excessively above 30℃, and it is dormant below 8℃. It grows well under 50% shade in summer. When the sunlight is too strong, the leaves turn yellow and the seedlings become weak if watering is not frequently applied to keep them moist. There should be sufficient light in winter. The bed soil humidity is about 70%, and the relative air humidity is 60%-80% which is most suitable for seedling growth. The bed soil requires loose and fertile, with strong air permeability and water infiltration functions. The humus soil and old horse manure in the forest are suitable for the growth of Clivia, and the suitable pH value is 6.7-7.6.

(II) Reproduction and cultivation

1. Seeding method: After the fruit matures, cut it off from the fruit stalk in time and let it ripen for another 10 to 15 days. Then peel the seeds from the fruit and sow them. You can also sow them from November to January of the following year. Soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, then put them in clean river sand for germination. The temperature is controlled at 20 to 25℃. They will germinate in half a month and then sow them. Wooden boxes, flower pots or seedling trays are used as sowing containers. Use humus soil as the sowing bed soil, sow on demand, with a distance of 2cm and 1cm of soil on top. Cover with mulch to keep moisture, wipe off the water drops under the mulch every day, and control the ground temperature at around 20℃. The first leaf will grow one month after germination and sowing. After the seedlings emerge, lower the ground temperature appropriately, and control the air temperature at 15 to 20℃. Water and ventilation should be properly controlled to enhance the resistance of the seedlings. Transplant when the first leaf is 2 to 3cm long.

For multiple transplants, you can first move them into a container with a diameter of 8 cm, or you can transplant 10 or 15 plants in a clay pot with a diameter of 16.7 cm or 20 cm, and then transplant them into a pot with a diameter of 13.3 cm as the seedlings grow. The bed soil for transplanting is leaf humus, or it can be prepared with 6 parts of leaf humus, 2 parts of loam, and 2 parts of sand. Put the prepared soil into the pot and level it, poke holes with a wooden stick, insert the fleshy roots of the seedlings into the soil, press the soil lightly and water it. When there are 5 to 10 leaves, transplant them into a pot with a diameter of 16.7 cm, when there are 11 to 15 leaves, plant them in a pot with a diameter of 20 cm or 23.3 cm, and when there are 16 to 20 leaves, plant them in a pot with a diameter of 26.7 cm. Generally, they begin to bloom after 20 leaves.

2 Division method After Clivia blooms, buds often sprout from the rhizome. Separating this bud from the mother plant can cultivate new plants. Generally, there are more buds in Clivia miniata and fewer in Clivia miniata with large flowers.

It is best to divide the plant after collecting seeds and before flowering, by hand breaking or cutting with a knife. Hold the base of the mother plant with one hand and the base of the side bud with the other hand, gently break it off, or cut it from the mother plant with a knife. The survival rate of breaking buds is high. When dividing the plant, it is best for the buds to have roots so that they can survive easily. Those without roots should be treated by cuttings for rooting. After the buds are removed from the mother plant, apply plant ash to the wound to prevent infection and prevent water evaporation. Use fine sand as the cutting medium, insert it into the medium 2 to 3 cm deep, place it at 20 to 25°C to promote rooting, keep the sand moist, and new roots will grow after 30 to 50 days. Move the rooted buds into a container for cultivation.

3 Root cutting method When the room temperature is about 15°C in spring, use a sharp knife to cut horizontally at the rhizome of the mature Clivia plant, apply plant ash to the shortened stems with leaves, plant them in a pot after the wound is dry, strengthen maintenance, and the shortened stems will grow new roots in about 3 months and become a complete plant. The rhizome and root system left by the original plant remain in the original pot. Later, 5 to 6 callus tissues are formed on the cross section of the rhizome. When the callus tissue is 2 to 4 mm in size, young roots begin to grow. In 10 to 11 months, these callus tissues develop into 4 seedlings about 20 cm high. Then cut the 4 seedlings and cultivate them according to the above method. This method has a high germination rate and strong growth potential. Comrade Tang Zuochong of Zhejiang used mature Clivia plants as test materials and used this method to cultivate Clivia seedlings with 8 to 12 leaves in more than 10 months.

Section 5 Greenhouse Bulbs 
1. Cyclamen Cyclamen persicum 

belongs to the genus Cyclamen of the family Primulaceae. It means the arrival of cyclamen. There is a beautiful metaphor of "single flower drooping and petals curling up, gazing at the fairy rabbit in the moon palace". It is also called radish crabapple, rabbit ear flower, and first-class crown. The flowering period is from September to May of the following year. It is generally used for indoor display as a spring flower and also used as commercial cut flowers. There are more than 100 varieties of cyclamen, ranging from pure white, pink to red. In recent years, Japan has cultivated new varieties of golden yellow. According to the size of the flower, it can be divided into large flower type, medium flower type and small flower type; according to the shape of the flower and petals, it can be divided into rabbit ear shape, lantern shape, windmill shape, butterfly shape; it can also be divided into single petal, double petal and lace edge, wrinkled edge. The flower color can be divided into single color and complex color. As cyclamen is becoming more and more popular, the demand for cyclamen in the market is increasing, and the quantity and quality of cyclamen seedlings should be improved accordingly.

(I) Preparation before seedling raising
Seedling raising is generally best done from September to November each year. The seedling raising substrate should be loose, breathable, fertilizer-retaining, water-retaining, nutritious, free of pests and diseases and weed seeds, with moderate particles and good elasticity. For example, peat + perlite, peat + coconut bran are all good substrates. The substrate requires an EC value between 0.8 and 1.2 and a pH value between 5.5 and 6.3. Before using the substrate, it can be disinfected by mixing 1500 times potassium permanganate and 1500 times phoxim. If conditions permit, it can be fumigated at 100℃ for 1 hour. The seedling raising box can be a general flat plate or a plug tray. The used seedling box should be disinfected with 1000 times potassium permanganate. If conditions permit, it can be fumigated with sulfur fumigant for 1 hour.

(II)
Seeds for sowing should be disinfected and germinated. Soak them in 1000 times water-soluble thiophanate-methyl or 1000 times potassium permanganate for one day and night. The substrate is packed in boxes, scraped flat, and watered thoroughly. The substrate is 1 cm away from the edge of the seedling box. The humidity requirement is 60-70%, that is, it is appropriate to hold the substrate tightly with your hand and have a little water droplet seeping out. The sowing spacing is 2.5×2.5 cm, the floating soil is 0.5 cm, shading, and covering with film. Keep the humidity of the small environment at 80-90%, the indoor temperature at 15-22℃, and the light at 2000-3000 lux. Observe after 20 days. When more than 60% of the seedlings emerge, the film can be removed, and ventilation can be gradually strengthened to allow the seedlings to gradually adapt to the environment of the nursery room.

(III) Management
during the seedling stage During the seedling stage, attention should be paid to keeping the seedling substrate moist to prevent the plants from drying up, but the water content should not be too high. Excessive water content can easily cause leggy growth, hypoxia of the roots, and infection of pathogens. When the seedlings have 2 to 3 true leaves, they can be removed from the box and potted. Immediately after transplanting, spray carbendazim or agricultural streptomycin 1000 times solution to prevent the roots from breaking during transplanting and causing wound infection.

After transplanting, spray 2000 to 3000 times solution of compound fertilizer with a ratio of N, P, and K of 1:0.7:2 every month. P and K fertilizers are not obvious in the seedling stage. Lack of N fertilizer will cause old leaves to be light green and true leaves to turn red. However, N fertilizer should not be too much, otherwise it will grow too long and be easy to be infected with bacteria.

During the seedling stage, spray 1000 times solution of chlorothalonil every 10 days to prevent and control wet rot. The light here should be kept at 10,000 to 15,000 lux, the temperature at 12 to 25℃, and the humidity at 60 to 75%. When the cyclamen seedlings grow to 4 to 6 leaves, they should be changed to pots. At this time, special attention should be paid to the stretching of the roots and not to hurt the small roots. The widest part of the ball diameter is used as the dividing line for the upper pot, and more than 1/3 is exposed to the soil surface (this is done to prevent the ball diameter and leaf buds from being infected with bacteria and causing rot. Similarly, the ball diameter buried too deep is not conducive to the leaf buds receiving light), compact the pot soil, and leave a 2 cm watering port on the edge of the pot.

After transplanting, spray the blight-promoting nail fungicide in time, and control the amount of watering within one month. This is the critical period for rooting. Water half a basin of water each time, water normally after one month, and apply 3000 times of N, P, and K compound fertilizer every half a month. Remove fake flowers and yellow leaves in time. After the Grain in Ear, the temperature rises, and attention should be paid to preventing bacterial diseases. At this time, if you want to sell the ball, you can force it to dormant, control watering, and make the leaves gradually wilt and turn yellow. When all the nutrients on the leaves flow back to the ball diameter, transfer the ball diameter to sand storage, and keep the humidity between 30 and 40%. If you want to see flowers in autumn and winter, you can carry out normal summer management. Summer management is mainly to prevent heatstroke and cool down, creating a cool and humid environment for it. First, lay a 65-75% shade net outside the greenhouse to reduce light, strengthen indoor ventilation, frequently sprinkle water on the greenhouse floor to cool down, and increase air humidity to ensure that the maximum indoor temperature does not exceed 30℃.

(IV) Maintenance of Cyclamen during the Growth Period
1. Fertilizer and water management 
Watering should follow the principle of alternating dry and wet, and watering thoroughly when dry. Watering should be done in the morning, and the water temperature should be as close to room temperature as possible. Too low water temperature will cause metabolic disorders and affect plant development. Do not sprinkle water on the leaves when watering, otherwise it will cause waterlogging damage and bacterial infection. Apply compound fertilizer or decomposed bean water once a month, and pay attention to changes in pH and EC values. The pH value should be kept between 6.5 and 7.3, and the EC value should be kept between 1.0 and 1.2.

2. Temperature 
The temperature should be kept between 15 and 26℃, the optimum temperature is between 18 and 24℃, and the humidity should be kept between 60 and 80% during the day. At night, the leaves must be kept dry and the indoor air should be kept flowing. During the growing season, 5 hours of light should be guaranteed every day, and the light intensity should be between 2000 and 4000 lux. The pot should be rotated once every half a month to ensure that it is evenly exposed to light.

3. Maintenance during the dormant period. 
During the dormant period, cut off the excess roots and leaves, transplant them into sandy soil, and maintain them under weak light. Sprinkle a little water every month to keep the ball moist and not dry, but the water should not be too large to avoid rot .

4. Pest control. 
Bacterial diseases and soft rot can be controlled with 4000 times chlorothalonil or 1000 times solution of 50% carbendazim, or 1000 times concentrated agricultural streptomycin. At the same time, watering should be done by spraying to avoid high temperature seasons. Gray mold can be controlled with 2000 times solution of zinc sulfate and 1000 times solution of gray mold. At the same time, pay attention to ventilation and reduce the temperature difference between day and night. Red spiders can be rotated with phosphorus trichloride, trichlorfon, and dichlorvos. Mites can be rotated with trichloroacetic acid, cypermethrin, and pyraclostrobin. Aphids can be killed with diazinon, cypermethrin, and chlorpyrifos in turn.

2. Begonia tuberhybrida 



(I) Ecological habits

It likes a warm and humid environment with not too strong sunlight. The summer is not too hot, generally not exceeding 25℃. If it exceeds 32℃, the stems and leaves will wither and even cause tuber rot. The suitable temperature for growth is 15-20℃. The temperature in winter should not be too low and should be maintained at around 10℃. The growing period requires a relatively high relative humidity of about 75% during the day and about 80% or more at night. The tubers sprout and grow in the warm spring, bloom in summer and autumn, and dormant in winter. Short-day conditions inhibit flowering but promote tuber growth, while long-day conditions can promote flowering. The seed life is about 2 years. The planting soil is preferably loose, fertile, well-drained and slightly acidic sandy loam.

(II) Reproduction and cultivation

Reproduction is mainly sowing, but cuttings and tubers can also be divided.

1. Sowing method The seeds of bulbous begonia are very small, and 1g of seeds is about 25,000-40,000 seeds. Sowing can be done in the greenhouse throughout the year. But it is usually done from January to April. Sowing in January and February will bloom in July and August; sowing in March and April will bloom in August and September. Although it can bloom in the same year if sown later, the tuber formation is poor, which affects the growth of the next year, and the flowers are slightly smaller in the same year, and they will not reach the normal size until the second year, so it is better to sow early. In order to advance the flowering period, autumn sowing can be done. The temperature in the greenhouse should be kept above 7℃, and it is not dormant in winter.

Sowing is done in a shallow box or shallow pot. The soil for sowing is a mixture of 1 part leaf humus, 1 part sandy loam and 1 part sand, and about 1% superphosphate is added. The leaf humus can also be replaced by sphagnum moss or peat soil. Fill half of the bottom of the pot with drainage material, and the soil for sowing must be sieved with a fine sieve. The soil surface must be leveled and sown after moderate pressure. Because the seeds are tiny, some fine sand can be mixed for uniform sowing. Generally, it is not allowed to cover the soil after sowing. After sowing, cover with glass and place in semi-shade. Watering should be done by pot immersion. The soil must be kept moist, the temperature is 20-25℃, and it will germinate in about 15-25 days. When the seeds germinate, remove the glass and gradually expose them to sunlight. When the first true leaf appears, separate the seedlings, with a spacing of 1.5 cm, use the same soil as when sowing, and maintain the temperature at 18-19℃. In the first few days after transplanting, cover with glass and place in the shade. After the seedlings have grown, remove the glass and carry out normal management. When the seedlings grow up gradually and touch each other, transplant them for the second time at a distance of 2 cm. The soil is a mixture of 1 leaf humus, 2 loam, and 1 sand. If organic basal fertilizer is applied, it must be fully decomposed. After that, the temperature should be slightly lowered, kept at 10-13℃ at night, and the air and soil should be moderately moist. Finally, plant them in a 14-16cm pot, using a mixture of 1 leaf humus or peat soil, 3 loam, and 1 river sand. A small amount of basal fertilizer can also be given.

2. The cutting method is used to preserve excellent varieties or double-petal varieties that are difficult to collect seeds. This method is not used for general reproduction. Therefore, this method has a low reproduction coefficient, difficult rooting, and the growth of cutting seedlings is not as good as sowing seedlings, and the branching ability is weak. After the bulbs are planted in spring, several buds usually appear at the top of the tuber. Select one strong bud and the other new buds can be taken for cuttings. It can be carried out throughout the summer, and cuttings are preferably taken before June. Because it can bloom and form bulbs in autumn. The cuttings are about 7-10cm long and are cut into river sand or sphagnum moss. The temperature is maintained at 23℃ and the relative humidity is 80%. It can take root in 15-20 days. The side branches of the plant can also be cut, but it is not easy to take root and the cutting period is late, so it is rarely used.

3. The tuber division method is to divide the tuber in early spring when the tuber is about to sprout. Each tuber has one bud eye. The cut is coated with plant ash. After the cut is slightly dry, it can be potted. It should not be planted too deep. It is better to half expose the tuber above the soil surface. Too deep is easy to rot. One divided tuber is planted in each pot. Because the plant formed by dividing the tuber has a bad plant shape, the tuber is not neat, and the cut is easy to rot, it is rarely used.

The tuber is usually germinated in the greenhouse from February to March. The soil for germination is made of sand and leaf mold or sand and sphagnum moss. When planting, the top of the tuber is exposed to the soil surface. It is advisable to control watering in the early stage. It should not be too wet to avoid causing the tuber to rot. The temperature is about 15℃. After germination, it is planted in a 10cm pot. The potting soil is best with good ventilation and strong water retention. Leaf mold or peat soil, loam and sand can be mixed in equal amounts, and an appropriate amount of decomposed manure, bone meal or 1% superphosphate can be added. Topdressing is carried out when the buds are 10cm long, and they are planted in 17-20cm pots after 2 months. The tubers can also be directly planted in flower pots without germination, and the tubers are covered with soil about 1cm after planting. The old tubers

over 3 years old will gradually fade in flowering and can be discarded. The soil should be kept moderately moist, and the leaves do not need to be watered. When water drops remain on the leaves in autumn, the leaves are prone to rot. Adequate water supply should be maintained during flowering, but not excessive. Excessive watering is prone to flower falling and often causes tuber rot. Gradually reduce the amount of watering after the flowers fade.

Basal fertilizers are often fully decomposed manure, bone meal, sheep horns, horseshoe slices, superphosphate, dry manure and bean cakes. Topdressing can be any commonly used liquid fertilizer. Do not pour on the leaves when topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to rot. After the flower buds appear and before flowering, apply liquid fertilizer twice a week, and the liquid fertilizer should not be too concentrated.

After the summer, use reed curtains to block the strong light around noon (except for multi-flowered plants). If the light is too strong, the plant will be dwarfed, the leaves will thicken and curl, and the perianth will be burned. However, excessive shade will cause the plant to grow too long and the flowering will be reduced. The temperature should generally not exceed 25℃. At this time, it is hot and humid, and stem rot and root rot often occur. The room temperature and watering should be controlled in advance, and 25% carbendazim 250 times liquid should be sprayed for prevention. The diseased plants should be pulled out and burned. In the hot summer, ventilation should be paid attention to day and night, otherwise it will often cause flowers to fall. In a well-ventilated room, the plant grows shorter and the pedicels are longer, and the flowers are also larger. When ventilation is poor, it is easy to suffer from powdery mildew, which can be prevented and treated with Bordeaux liquid. The plant can bloom in about June-July. After the first batch of flowers, watering should be controlled to keep it half dry, and the flower part should be cut off to prevent it from being strong. After a short period of dormancy, the plant can send out new branches again. At this time, cut off the old stems, leaving 2-3 strong branches, and apply liquid fertilizer to promote its second flowering. After the flowers fade, the fruits gradually mature. They should be picked as they ripen, placed in the shade to dry, and properly stored for autumn sowing or next spring sowing. Bulbous begonias can be pollinated naturally, but sometimes they do not set fruit well. It is best to perform artificial assisted pollination during the flowering period. When the fruit is ripe and the leaves gradually turn yellow, stop watering gradually. When the stems and leaves are completely withered and yellow, they can be cut off from the base. After they are completely dormant, the bulbs can be taken out and buried in dry sand or dry soil, or left in the original pot. The temperature should be maintained at 5-7℃ during dormancy.

Section 6 Orchidaceae 
Orchidaceae plants can be divided into two major categories according to their ecological habits: terrestrial orchids and epiphytic orchids. There are also a few saprophytic orchids, which are the distribution center of the genus Orchidaceae.

1. Orchidaceae (Chinese orchids)
Chinese orchids mostly refer to terrestrial orchids, all of which belong to the genus Orchidaceae. It is a perennial evergreen herb with elegant leaves and a faint and distant fragrance, enjoying the reputation of "the best fragrance in the world". According to the different flowering seasons, they can be divided into the following categories:

Spring flowering type Spring orchid Cymbidium goeringii, also known as grass orchid, mountain orchid, flowering

period February-March. Summer flowering type Huilan C.faberi, also known as summer orchid, nine-section orchid, flowering period April-May.

Taiwan orchid C.floribundum var. pumilum, also known as golden edge, flowering period April-June.

Autumn flowering type Jianlan C.ensifolium, also known as autumn orchid, male orchid, autumn orchid, flowering period July-September.

Winter flowering type Molan C.sinense, also known as Bao Sui Lan, flowering period November-January.

Cold orchid C.kanran, flowering period October-January.

In addition, there are some epiphytic orchids in the genus Orchid, such as tiger orchid, hard leaf orchid, etc. Cultivation and management are the same as tropical orchids.

(I) Ecological habits

Orchids like warm and humid climates. Spring orchids and Huilan have strong cold resistance. They are distributed both north and south of the Yangtze River, but mostly south of the Yangtze River. Cold orchids are distributed slightly south. Jianlan and Molan are less cold-resistant, and their natural distribution is limited to the southern provinces of Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi, Yunnan, and Taiwan. Orchids mostly grow wild in sparse forests in moist valleys, in slightly acidic soils rich in humus. Orchid roots are distributed in the topsoil layer, and the root length can reach 50-80cm. It grows most luxuriantly in the semi-shaded areas under trees. On the south slope where the sun is sufficient and dry, the leaves are slightly yellow and there are many flowers; on the shady slope, the leaves are dark green and lush, but there are few flowers. In cultivation, semi-shaded should be maintained during the growth period, and there should be sufficient light in winter. The orchid root system coexists with mycorrhizal fungi, otherwise it will grow poorly.

(II) Reproduction and cultivation

1. Reproduction

is usually based on division. Although sowing can be used for reproduction, it is rarely used in practice and is mainly used for hybrid breeding. In recent years, orchids have been propagated using tissue culture methods, and progress has been rapid.

① Division method Spring orchids bloom in spring, and division should be carried out in late autumn (September-October) when growth stops; species that bloom in autumn, such as Jianlan, should be carried out before new buds emerge in spring. Generally, division is done once every 3-4 years. Before division, make the pot soil slightly dry and the root system soften, so that the roots are not easily damaged during division. Take the plant out of the pot, shake off the pot soil, remove the dead roots, and then separate it from the place where it can be naturally separated and plant it separately. To avoid root breakage when potting, it can be placed in a ventilated place to dry in the shade after division, and planted when it becomes slightly soft.

② Seeding method usually adopts the method of sowing on the culture medium. The culture room maintains a temperature of 25℃ and an air humidity of 40-60%. After sowing, it takes half a year to a year for the seeds to germinate. After seedling division and planting, it will take about 8-10 years to bloom. During the sowing and seedling division process, strict attention must be paid to disinfection. Once infected with mold, sowing will fail.

③ Tissue culture The tissue culture of the genus Flange is generally based on buds as explants. Explant refers to plant materials for tissue culture. After being inoculated on the culture medium, a small round protosphere will be produced in about 4-6 weeks. Take it out, divide it into four, and re-cultivate it. The protosphere can be cut again after 1-2 months. The protosphere grows buds and roots to form new plants. In this way, thousands of asexual plants can be produced in a short period of time. Foreign orchid factories generally use this method for reproduction.

2. Cultivation

① Cultivation site Terrestrial orchids generally grow wild in sparse forests in moist valleys. The main environmental characteristics of the origin are moist, proper shade, clean air, and good ventilation. The place where we cultivate terrestrial orchids should try to meet the above environmental requirements in order to achieve good cultivation results. Terrestrial orchids are cultivated under the shade shed from late spring to late autumn. Those who cannot survive the winter under the shade shed are cultivated in the orchid room in winter.

The orchid room should be able to artificially control temperature, humidity, ventilation, etc. The daytime temperature in winter is about 20℃, and the nighttime temperature is about 13℃. The nighttime temperature for cultivating spring orchids and cymbidium orchids can be as low as 5℃, as long as there is no ice. The room requires sufficient light. In order to maintain the indoor humidity, a pool should be set up, and the ground should not be paved. The flower pots should be placed on the flower rack, and the orchid room should also be equipped with ventilation equipment and shade curtains with adjustable shade.

The shade shed should be set in a place surrounded by trees, close to the water surface, with fresh air and good ventilation. Spray equipment should be installed on the shed, and the shade curtain of the shade shed should be able to adjust the shade. The shade curtain should be fully opened from dusk to early morning, so that the orchids can receive the morning light early, the sunset in the evening, and the dew at night. Pull up the shade curtain in the morning to avoid the strong sunlight during the day, but it should not be too shady, otherwise the growth will be weakened. In summer, the sunlight is strong, the degree of shade should be increased, and denser shade curtains should be used, and the shading time will also be longer; in spring and autumn, the sunlight is weakened, and only the sunlight around noon can be avoided. The shade tolerance of orchids varies with species. Molan is the most shade-tolerant, followed by Jianlan and Hanlan. Chunlan and Huilan need more sunlight. They should be distinguished when shading.

② The potting soil must contain enough nutrients that can be absorbed and utilized by orchids; the soil should be loose, ventilated, and well-drained; the soil pH should be neutral or slightly acidic (pH=5.5-7.0). Generally, mountain mud in the Jiangsu and Zhejiang areas is used, which is humus soil formed by years of decomposition of dead branches and fallen leaves on the mountain.

③ In order to drain well, the bottom of the pot needs to be padded with broken tiles or charcoal blocks, or a perforated pot can be placed on the drainage hole, and broken tiles or charcoal can be placed around it. If there is sphagnum moss, it is better to cover it with a layer, and finally fill it with culture soil. The planting depth of orchids is measured when the upper end of the pseudobulb is level with the soil surface. After planting, the center of the pot soil is slightly arched. In order to avoid soil splashing on the leaves and increase the beauty, a layer of gravel can be spread on the soil surface or green cloud grass (Selaginella uncinafa) can be planted. After potting, it should be placed in the shade at first, and then gradually exposed to sunlight after more than ten days. It is better to use a clay pot for orchids because it has good drainage and ventilation.

④ Watering and spraying ground orchids require moist air and soil. Summer is the growing season. In addition to keeping the soil moist, in order to increase the air humidity, sometimes you need to spray or spray several times a day. Keep the relative humidity at 45-65%. Water in the early morning or evening in summer. During the rainy season, the pot soil should be slightly dry to avoid diseases caused by excessive humidity. In autumn, the temperature drops and the growth gradually stops. The number of watering should be reduced. Depending on the weather conditions, stop spraying water. It is enough not to let the pot soil dry. Molan blooms in winter and needs more watering, while Jianlan should be slightly dry. Rainwater and snow water are the best for watering orchids, followed by river water, pool water, and well water. Do not use hard water and alkaline water containing too many minerals. When watering, follow the principle of "not dry in summer and autumn, not wet in winter and spring" (mainly referring to spring orchids and cymbidium orchids).

⑤ Fertilization There are mycorrhizal fungi in the orchid roots. Mycorrhizal fungi absorb mineral nutrients from the outside to supply orchids, while root cells provide organic nutrients to meet the living needs of mycorrhizal fungi. The two are mutually beneficial symbiotic relationships. At the same time, a proper balance must be maintained between the two so that orchids can grow vigorously. If there are too few mycorrhizal fungi, the orchid roots cannot absorb sufficient nutrients, affecting the growth of the plant; and if there are too many mycorrhizal fungi, the root cells will be damaged. We choose to prepare suitable cultivation soil and fertilization, the purpose is to regulate the growth and decline relationship between mycorrhizal fungi and orchid roots, and achieve an ideal balance.

Usually, orchids are repotted and soiled every year, and the nutrients in the potting soil are sufficient for the growth and development needs of the year. There is no need to apply topdressing.

But if you only repot once every few years, you need to apply topdressing fertilizer.

Commonly used fertilizers include organic fertilizers such as cow dung, sheep dung, bean cake, sesame paste residue, etc., but they must be fully decomposed before use. Cultivated orchids rarely use base fertilizer, but liquid fertilizer is applied. Apply thin liquid fertilizer once every 5-10 days during the growth period. Chemical fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, and superphosphate can also be applied, but special attention should be paid to controlling the concentration. Fertilization should follow the principle of "frequent and light, avoid sudden and thick". No topdressing in midsummer and severe winter. Fertilization is not suitable before and after flowering.

⑥ Other management Rains continue, especially in the rainy season, attention should be paid to rain protection. Pots should be placed in ventilated places. In case of strong winds, they should be protected to avoid leaf damage. When the temperature drops in autumn and winter, such as when the night temperature drops to 2-3℃, they should be moved indoors for cultivation in time; Jianlan, Molan and Hanlan have weak cold resistance, and should be moved indoors as soon as possible to prevent cold.

⑦ Disease and insect control Grasp the principle of prevention over treatment. In order to make orchids grow strong and have strong resistance to diseases and insect pests, the place where orchids are cultivated should always be kept clean and properly ventilated.

White rot is prone to occur during the high temperature period in the rainy season, and Bordeaux mixture or thiophanate can be used for prevention. Pests are most common with scale insects, which can be controlled by 1059, dimethoate and other drugs.

⑧ Orchid breeding Orchid breeding has been carried out for decades abroad, and there are now hundreds of orchid hybrids. Most of their male and female parents have large flowers. There are rich terrestrial orchid germplasm resources, such as Chunlan, Huilan, Jianlan, Molan, etc., which have many natural variants and variants. Artificial hybrid breeding has a broad future. Cultivating orchids with large, beautiful and fragrant flowers is a glorious topic of orchid breeding.

(III) Uses

Orchids are traditional famous flowers and famous precious potted flowers. Orchid gardens are often set up for special cultivation. When it is not in bloom, its leaves are elegant and evergreen all year round. It is known as "looking at leaves is better than looking at flowers". When it blooms, the flowers are beautiful, the colors are elegant, and the fragrance is overflowing, which is worth savoring.

Some orchid hybrids are internationally famous cut flowers. A flower can be appreciated for more than one month in water at room temperature.

The flowers and leaves of orchids can be used for medicinal purposes; the flowers are edible and used to smoke orchid tea.

2. Epiphytic orchids (tropical orchids or orchids)
Epiphytic orchids are orchids that grow in tropical or subtropical areas. There are many species, all of which have large, brightly colored flowers and are of high ornamental value, but most species have no fragrance. Such as Cattleya, Paphiopedilum, Dendrobium, etc.

(I) Ecological habits

Epiphytic orchids are mostly epiphytic on tree trunks in forests or in the shade and wet places of cliffs. Some species prefer moisture, such as Cattleya labiata, which are mostly epiphytic on tree trunks or rocks in tropical rainforests, and are also found in wet forests or on trees by streams. In the place of origin, the growing season is in spring and summer, with the rainy season as the peak growth period. During this period, high temperature and high humidity are required.

Autumn and winter are dormant periods, and it is better to be slightly dry. The requirements for water, sunlight, and temperature vary depending on the species. But generally, a moist and semi-shady environment is required.

(II) Cultivation and management

The cultivation materials of epiphytic orchids must be loose and porous, with good drainage and strong water retention. Therefore, peat moss, osmanthus root, Polypodium root, beech leaves, sand, clay, dry cow dung, and charcoal are usually used to prepare them. The proportions vary according to the species. The general proportion is 2 parts of osmanthus root, 1 part of peat moss, and 1/2 part of beech leaves; for example, if you are planting Cattleya, you only need 2 parts of osmanthus root and 1 part of peat moss; for Dendrobium, 1 part of osmanthus root and 3 parts of peat moss are generally used; the cultivation materials are generally slightly acidic (pH 4.5-6.0), and orchids are generally repotted once every 2-3 years.

In addition to providing appropriate temperatures for different species, the cultivation of epiphytic orchids must provide a fully moist and shaded environment during the growth period. Generally, the air humidity in the orchid room is required to be above 85%. Species without pseudobulbs require higher humidity. In addition to moistening the planting materials, water should be sprayed on the leaves several times a day during the growth period of orchids.

The requirements for sunlight vary depending on the type of orchid and the season. Generally, species with larger and softer leaves are shade-tolerant; species with pseudobulbs, fleshy stems, and thick leaves, such as Cattleya, require slightly more sunlight; deciduous species such as some dendrobiums require more light. The degree of shading in summer is greater than that in spring and autumn, and two layers of curtains are used; the shading time is also longer; in winter, general species require sufficient light, but strong sunlight around noon still needs to be blocked.

3. Cymbidium cymbidium
is also known as tiger orchid, cicada orchid, and simbi orchid. It usually refers to a part of large-flowered epiphytic species and their hybrids in the genus Orchidaceae. Compared with other orchids, cymbidium cymbidium is more distinctive, with large and numerous flowers. It has a graceful posture and rich and bright colors, including red, yellow, green, white and complex colors. After hybridization, it produces a combination of yellow and red or yellow and green. The flowering period of cymbidium is relatively long, up to 50 to 80 days. It grows robustly, blooms easily, has strong adaptability and is relatively easy to cultivate. The cymbidium has a generous and spectacular flower shape, is relatively cold-resistant and resistant to transportation, and will become a major trend in the consumer market.

Cymbidium is usually planted as a potted flower, which can be used to decorate and beautify the room and garden. It can also be used as a good commodity cut flower when mass-produced, and has great development prospects.

Cymbidium is native to China, South Korea, Japan and Southeast Asia, and has a wide range of areas suitable for planting. In subtropical and tropical high-altitude areas, it can be cultivated in the open field, and in temperate cold areas, such as areas north of central China, it can be cultivated indoors or in low-temperature greenhouses. Based on the accumulation of many years of production experience and technology, this article focuses on the cultivation and production technology of areas north of central China and high-altitude areas in the southwest.

(I) Selection and breeding of superior varieties 
The cymbidium orchids currently cultivated and sold around the world are all superior varieties that have been selected and bred through hybridization for more than a hundred years. They are extremely commercially available, easy to bloom, with neat flower shapes, wide petals, plump flowers, bright colors, upright and firm flower stems, a large number of flowers arranged closely and a long lifespan. The plant shape and flowers are of different types, large, medium and small. Due to the characteristics of hybrid vigor, most of them grow robustly and have strong adaptability, and are easier to cultivate and breed than native species.

There are about 50 to 70 species of orchids in the world, mainly distributed in Asia. There are about 20 native species of cymbidium orchids that are commonly cultivated and used as hybrids, mainly distributed in the southwest and Southeast Asian countries, South Korea, Japan and other regions, and a few are distributed in Guangdong, Hainan, the Malay Peninsula and Australia.

Over the past 100 years, especially after the 1940s and 1950s, after a large number of inter-species and inter-variety hybridization, the breeding of cymbidium orchids has been raised to a new level. So far, more than a thousand excellent varieties have been cultivated, and a large number of patented varieties have been registered in the United States, Japan, New Zealand, the Netherlands and other places. Excellent varieties have a very high market share in foreign markets, and a large number of new varieties appear every year. Its important position as a commercial orchid has long been recognized by everyone.

At present, breeding experts have hybridized a certain variety of cymbidium orchid with traditional Chinese orchids to cultivate new varieties of cymbidium orchids with the fragrance and posture of Chinese orchids, such as the yellow fairy. The new variety concentrates the advantages of Chinese orchids and foreign orchids, that is, cymbidium orchids are elegant and graceful, which will become a new hot spot for Chinese people to appreciate orchids.

The reproduction and production of cymbidium orchids generally adopt stem tip culture, that is, tissue culture method. Tissue culture method can maintain the excellent traits of the original mother and the uniformity of plant traits. Generally speaking, the sowing method cannot be used for propagation, because the sowing method is a form of sexual reproduction. The seeds are obtained through hybridization between parents. The separation of the characteristics of the offspring seedlings is very serious, making it difficult to maintain the excellent characteristics of the mother plant. In addition, the plants are uneven, the characteristics vary greatly, and the commercial value is lost. The division method can also be used for family cultivation of cymbidium orchids. The operation is simple and easy, and it can also maintain the excellent characteristics of the mother plant. Generally, professional production farms do not use the division method, because the plants grow weakly after division, the plant shape is too high, and it is not beautiful. It will occupy the position of the middle and small seedlings behind, which is extremely uneconomical. Moreover, the division seedlings cannot be shipped in time when the shipping season arrives, so it is recommended to use tissue culture seedlings as the best policy.

(II) The growth environment and growth habits of cymbidium orchids 
Cymbidium orchids are originally alpine plants. They like a relatively cool climate environment and should be planted in places with higher terrain and large temperature differences between day and night. In China, the area north of central China can grow normally in summer, and it grows well in places above 600 meters above sea level in southern China. The climate in Yunnan is more suitable for the growth of cymbidium.

1. Temperature

The suitable temperature for the growth of cymbidium is 10℃～30℃. It should be placed in a low-temperature greenhouse in winter. It is better to be around 10℃ at night. In the hot season, it should be noted that the relative humidity should be controlled at 85%. Cymbidium likes an environment with high temperature during the day and low temperature at night. The temperature difference between day and night must be above 10℃ to grow well. Flower buds need to form during the high temperature period, around August, but the temperature from the development of flower buds to flowering needs to be below 20℃. Therefore, if the temperature is too high in autumn, it is very easy to cause buds to fall. The biggest problem of cultivating cymbidium in tropical low-altitude areas is that the temperature in summer and autumn is too high, and the formed flower buds are easy to fall. The flower buds are also poor in low temperature resistance. If the temperature is too low during the growth of the flower buds, they will turn black and rot. Therefore, when growing cymbidium orchids in North China, the orchids can be moved outdoors from April to early May, and then moved indoors to spend the winter when the temperature drops in early October. If there are heating measures, the flowering period can be more accurately controlled.

2. Light

(1) In an environment with sufficient light, the leaves of cymbidium orchids are yellow-green and thick, while in an environment with insufficient light, the leaves are dark green and slender and weak. The optimal light intensity for cymbidium orchids is 15,000 to 25,000 Lux.

(2) Compared with Chinese orchids, cymbidium orchids prefer light, but they are prone to leaf burns when exposed to direct sunlight or excessive light in summer and autumn. Parts of the leaves are brown like a fire, and in severe cases, they die. Therefore, shade is required in summer. If the light is less than 15,000 Lux, the flowering rate is low. In North China, it is generally better to use a layer of 50% shade net in summer. The sunlight can be slightly stronger in autumn so that the plants can grow stronger and be conducive to wintering and the formation and differentiation of flower buds. In winter, there is no need to add a shade net, just under the light of two layers of film.

3. Humidity and ventilation

The growing season of cymbidium is mostly in the rain and fog. Because it generally requires higher humidity, in summer and autumn, the air humidity cannot be lower than 85%, and in winter, 50% is enough for dormancy. High air humidity can also promote cooling. If the air humidity is low, the leaves will be rough and dull. If the humidity is appropriate, the leaves will be clean and shiny. In a high temperature and high humidity environment, pay attention to good ventilation. In this environment, orchids are susceptible to diseases.

Cymbidium has higher requirements for water quality, likes slightly acidic water, is more sensitive to calcium and magnesium ions, and can be irrigated with rainwater is the most ideal. The northern region is mostly hard water, calcium, magnesium ion content is high, when selecting production sites, it is best to choose a place with better water quality for planting. Rainwater is the best water for watering orchids, followed by river water, and then well water, and tap water is used only when necessary. If you want to use tap water, you must use stored tap water to slowly evaporate the chlorine in the water and precipitate white powder. If the water quality is alkaline, nitric acid, glacial acetic acid, etc. can be used to adjust it.

Cymbidium orchids have a strong root system, so the medium must be kept moist. In summer and autumn, watering is generally done twice a day, while in winter, it is better to be slightly dry, and watering is generally done once every 2 to 3 days.

4. Cultivation and management of cymbidium orchids

Cultivation medium: 

The most ideal medium for cultivating cymbidium orchids is one that contains a large amount of humus, is loose and breathable, has good drainage, has appropriate fertilizer, is slightly acidic, and is free of pests and diseases. Commonly used preparation materials include sphagnum moss, fine snake sawdust, foamed refined stone, gravel, bricks, peat soil, coconut blocks, etc. Traditionally, sphagnum moss and gravel are mixed, but due to the high price of sphagnum moss, it is only used when transplanting bottle seedlings into plug seedlings, and other materials are replaced by bark and peat soil. The principles of medium preparation are:

(1) Good water retention. Cymbidium orchids cannot lack water during the seedling stage, and mature plants prefer slightly moist planting materials. Materials with good water retention can reduce the number of irrigation times.

(2) The medium has sufficient pores and drainage functions. The roots of cymbidium orchids are fleshy. Excessive humidity can easily cause water accumulation and root rot, so it is necessary to use materials with good drainage.

(3) The pH value of the medium should be around 5.5.

Based on the above principles, the following three reference formulas can be used during the potting stage of cymbidium orchids: (1) 50% coarse leaf humus and 50% coconut block; (2) 40% coconut block + 30% peat branches + 30% gravel; (3) 40% coconut block + 40% peat soil + 20% gravel.

5. Potted plant management

(1)

When the seedlings are removed from the bottle and planted in the plug tray, first wrap the roots of each seedling with sphagnum moss to keep them moist and increase the degree of transplantation after planting. When the seedlings are just about to take root, they are most afraid of frequent and irregular shaking, which will cause the root tips of the new roots to wear out, hinder the growth of the new roots, and affect the survival rate. During this period, fertilizers with high potassium content are required. After the new roots are basically established, the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratios of the fertilizers are changed to 15:15:30. This is because the seedlings cannot grow lateral buds too early. The tissue culture seedlings must be kept in a single bud state for more than one year, and then grow lateral buds after they become mature seedlings. This is the only way to maintain the plant shape of the whole pot.

Generally, it takes 6 to 8 months to cultivate seedlings in a tray. During this period, it is important to pay attention to even watering and avoid water drying. Once the water has dried up, it will be difficult to penetrate again.

(2)

After about half a year, the root system of the seedlings in the tray develops sufficiently strong and fills the holes. Growth will be restricted, so a 3-inch soft pot is required. The cultivation medium is prepared as small coconut blocks: leaf mold = 1:2 or snake wood chips: leaf mold = 1:1 or coconut blocks 40% + peat coarse branches 30% + gravel 30%.

Fertilization during this period is still based on 15:15:30. In the hot season, it is important to pay attention to good ventilation, otherwise it is easy to get anthracnose. The cultivation time of 3-inch pots is generally 1 year to 1 and a half years.

(3) The seedling period

of the seedling period of a certain period, and it is necessary to continue to change the pot. It is best

to start the cultivation of the seedlings during this period, and it takes about 1 year to cultivate the seedlings. The above reference formula can be used for the cultivation medium of the seedlings. After changing into the 4-inch pot, the plant gradually grows into a 3-4-cm pseudobulb. At this time, the leaves on the bulb have stopped growing, and new buds appear from the base of the pseudobulb, generally ranging from 2-4. The control of the number of buds on the side of the seedlings is a key to cultivars in the cultivation of cymbidium. The ideal operation is to retain two buds for each pseudobulb. The best time for sparse buds is when the buds grow to 5 cm high, the principle of retention of buds is:

① The new buds are symmetrical on the left and right and in the middle;

② The remaining buds are strong and strong, and have good development;

③ Only spring buds are left and no autumn buds are left.

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Common pests of Cymbidium are mainly scale insects and red spiders. Scale insects mainly occur in the rainy season of spring and autumn, and can be prevented and treated by Wanling and quick puncture. Red spiders can be prevented and treated by regular spraying of mite effects and trichlorocarcinol.

Section 7 Cacti and Succulent Plants 
Cacti and succulent plants are generally referred to as succulent plants. This type of plant includes plants from the Cactaceae, Aizoaceae, and some Agavaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Bromeliaceae, Asteraceae, Crassulaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Liliaceae, Portulacaceae, and Vitaceae families. Most of them are native to tropical or subtropical regions in the Americas and Africa. In order to adapt to the dry and rainless environment in these regions, they store a lot of water in their bodies, and the stems and leaves of the plants are thick, becoming fleshy and succulent.

There are many types of cacti and succulent plants, and their shapes are colorful, infinitely varied, and brightly colored, which arouses great interest among people; some have large and fat stems, densely covered with prickles and soft hairs; some have sharp needles of different lengths, and some have fleshy and soft stems; and many have colorful stems and leaves, and the colors of the flowers are extremely gorgeous. They are really in various forms and extremely beautiful, and are indeed unique plants among garden flowers. Also, because they are easy to maintain and manage, easy to propagate and cultivate, they can be displayed indoors, outdoors, or on a small table, especially suitable for potted plants indoors.

For the convenience of cultivation and management, we list the cactus plants separately, called "cactus plants", and the succulent and succulent plants of other families outside the cactus family are called "succulent plants".

1. Overview of cactus plants
All cactus plants belong to the cactus family, with more than 140 genera and more than 2,000 species. The main production areas are tropical and subtropical regions such as Brazil, Argentina, and Mexico in the Americas, and a few are produced in Asia and Africa. There are wild cacti in Guangxi, Guangdong, Yunnan, and Guizhou, which are often used as fences. Nanjing, Shanghai, Hangzhou and other temperate regions can be used for greenhouse cultivation. April to October is the growing period, of which May to September is the vigorous growth period, and November to March of the following year is the dormant period. The climate is generally dry and cold during the dormant period, so pay attention to heat preservation, avoid cold and keep dry. Since cactus plants have special water storage tissues, they absorb a large amount of fertilizer and water during their growth period, especially during the vigorous growth period, to supply the consumption in the dry season. During the dormant period, they have rich storage substances in their bodies. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to not too much water, so that the viscosity of the cell protoplasm can be increased and the permeability can be reduced, which is conducive to cold resistance. If the soil is too moist during dormancy, it will cause rot and death.

In addition to leaf cacti and epiphytic types, cactus plants have more body shapes, which are columnar, flat or spherical. There are special organ thorn pits on the fleshy stems, with thorns, prickles, soft hairs or hair clusters. The flowers are bisexual, of different sizes, with pure white, pure yellow, golden yellow, pink, bright red, rose red and other colors. Its stamens and stamens are also emerald green, golden yellow, bright red, white, etc. There are many stamens, which are epiphytic in the throat of the flower. The style is slender, solitary, and the stigma is multi-divided. Most of the fruits are fleshy berries, some of which are bright red like coral, and they all have good ornamental value.

Cactus plants also have certain economic value. Many cactus fruits are edible, and the stem flesh can be made into candied fruit after being boiled with sugar. The bulbs can be used as medicine to clear away heat and reduce swelling, and can be used to treat lung heat cough, dysentery, pharyngitis, gastric ulcers, and externally to treat mumps, burns, etc. The thorny species can also be used as fences.

II. Reproduction of cactus plants
(I) Asexual reproduction
1. Cutting: It is the simplest method of propagating cactus plants. It can be carried out all year round, and spring and summer are the most suitable. Before propagation, select 1~2 mature stem nodes or part of the stem node on the mother plant as cuttings, and cut them off with a sharp knife. When cutting, pay attention to keeping the shape of the mother plant intact. After cutting, apply a small amount of sulfur powder or charcoal powder on the wound. After the cuttings are dried, bury 1/4 of the cuttings in a moist sand bed. The cuttings should not be inserted too deep. For larger cuttings, support pillars should be erected to make them stable. Transplant them into pots after roots grow. For cuttings, most species can use culture soil. For some species that are particularly soft and easy to rot, pure sand or pure sand with a little leaf mold can be used. For general spherical species, the young balls with a diameter of more than 2 cm can also be removed for cuttings. The key to the survival of cuttings is that the cuttings must be dried. At the same time, pay attention to not being too wet after insertion. Generally, watering is used, otherwise it is easy

to rot. 2. Grafting: It is mainly used for grafting small balls to promote accelerated growth. It is also used for some species with poor root development or slow growth, or to rescue some species that are attacked by pests and diseases or other reasons and cause base rot. The grafting period can be carried out at a temperature above 15℃. Most species have a high survival rate when the room temperature is 20~25℃. However, the commonly used rootstock, the cypress, often has a short period of dormancy and shriveling in midsummer. Grafting should be carried out on a sunny day.

There are two main methods of grafting: flat grafting and cleft grafting. When grafting, you should choose a rootstock with strong growth potential, robustness and strong affinity with the scion. Shanghai basically uses the scion. After the scion is planted and fertilized in the field, it is potted. It is thick and up to 10-20 cm, and it is grafted after it has adapted to the pot.

The flat grafting method is suitable for columnar or spherical species. When grafting, use a sharp steel knife to cut the upper end of the rootstock horizontally (the steel knife should be disinfected with alcohol to prevent infection), and then cut the column edge into an inclined plane, because the tissue will shrink after cutting, and the epidermis of the edge is very hard, so the hard corners on the cut surface must be cut off, and then the base of the scion is cut flat and aligned with the pith of the rootstock for grafting. The cut surface of the scion and the rootstock must be smooth and easy to heal. After grafting, it should be sealed, and finally tied with thread or plastic tape. The tightness should be uniform and the force should be appropriate to prevent the scion from moving crookedly or being strangled by the thread. After grafting, place it in a cool place, do not water it, and the wound should not be exposed to water. The wire (or plastic tape) of the grafted small bulbs can be removed after one week, while the wire (or plastic tape) of the grafted large bulbs must be removed after 2 weeks. After removing the wire, place the bottom of the scion in water until the topsoil in the pot is moist. Then place it in a semi-shaded place and wait until the scion has begun to grow before moving it to the sun. Generally, under high temperature conditions, it will start to grow after a week, and the diameter of the general variety can grow to about 4 cm in a year.

The cleft grafting method is generally suitable for hanging species with flat stem nodes such as crab claws and fairy fingers. When grafting, first use a sharp steel knife to cross-cut the upper end of the rootstock, then cut several wedge-shaped cracks at different parts of the top or side, then flatten the two sides of the lower end of the scion and insert it into the crack at any time, and then insert a thin bamboo needle to fix the scion. The wedge-shaped crack on the side should be cut to the pith of the rootstock so that the vascular bundles of the scion and the rootstock are connected and fully healed after the scion is inserted. After grafting, place it in a cool place, and be careful not to let the wound touch water. Move it to a sunny place after a week.

(II) Sexual reproduction
Sexual reproduction of cactus plants can produce a large number of plants at a time, and has the advantages of improving vitality and creating new varieties. However, potted cacti are often not easy to bear fruit after flowering, and the maturity of male and female plants is inconsistent. You can collect the pollen of the stamens and store it for a few days. When the pistil matures, use a brush to apply the pollen on the stigma, and use artificial pollination to promote it to bear fruit. After the fruit matures on the plant, wash out the seeds, dry them, and store them for a while, because the seeds of cactus plants have a ripening period, but they should not be stored for too long. Generally, the seeds that mature in autumn are stored until sowing in the next spring. In the greenhouse, they can be sown in March. The temperature of 15~25℃ is the best period for seed germination. The germination rate is significantly reduced when the temperature is too high in midsummer, but it can also be delayed until autumn. Sowing soil, generally use the culture soil of cactus potted plants. The soil in the pot should not be too full. First absorb water, then sow in the pot or broadcast. After sowing, the soil is generally not covered, but covered with glass, and then covered with translucent white paper. The gaps need to be exposed during the day for ventilation. At a temperature of about 20℃, it usually germinates in about 1 week. Some small seeds such as Epiphyllum can be mixed with a small amount of sand and soil before sowing, and usually germinate in 2 to 3 weeks.

During the seedling period, special attention should be paid to prevent the invasion of pathogens. If the seedlings are found to be rotten, they should be removed without hesitation, and then sprayed with fungicides, otherwise all the seedlings may be harmed. If necessary, move the good ones to another pot. In May, when the seedlings are about the size of mung beans, choose a sunny day for the first transplant. At this time, the vitality of the seedlings is very weak, and you must be very careful. Don't transplant too deep, the soil should be well drained, and spray water and shade slightly after transplanting.

The seedlings should maintain a temperature above 10℃ in winter, keep the pot half moist, and do not dormant during the seedling period. When the seedlings are 0.5 cm high, very thin cake fertilizer water can be applied, and the application is stopped in winter. It can grow to 1.0~1.5 cm in one year. If the grafting technology is high, grafting at 0.5 cm can speed up the growth rate. From a seed, it can grow into a ball with a diameter of 3~4 cm in one year. But some species grow particularly slowly.

3. Cultivation and management of cactus plants.
Cactus plants do not require complex cultivation and management techniques, but because they have special ecological and environmental conditions, they are different from ordinary greenhouse flowers and plants. In greenhouse cultivation, the indoor temperature must not be lower than 5℃ in winter and must not exceed 37℃ in summer. Heating and curtains are often used to control indoor humidity. Pay attention to ventilation during the growing season, open all windows and doors in summer, and adjust according to the temperature in spring and autumn. Cultivation and management should pay attention to the following aspects:

(I) Preparation of culture soil
. Proper soil preparation is an important part of cactus cultivation. Most cacti require good drainage and ventilation, rich in calcareous sand or sandy loam. There are generally two proportions of culture soil:

1. 3 parts loam, 3 parts humus soil, 3 parts coarse sand, 1 part plant ash and decomposed bone meal (in lime form). This kind of culture soil is suitable for general potted plants.

2. 7 parts humus soil, 3 parts coarse sand, bone meal and plant ash in appropriate amounts.

The proportion of these two kinds of culture soil is a common soil mixing method. In actual application, it should also be changed according to the specific type of cactus plants, climatic conditions, and the possibility of actual material collection. The general requirement is to drain, ventilate, contain lime, not accumulate water, not be too fertile, and not contain too much soluble salt. In addition, it is best to steam sterilize the culture soil before use and use it after cooling.

(II) Planting and potting
When planting cactus plants in pots, use coarse mud pots with good ventilation, and do not use magnetic pots. Planting time should be at the beginning of the spring growing season when the temperature is above 15℃. The size of the pot should be slightly larger than the plant itself by 1~2 cm. It should not be too large. If the pot is too wide, it will often cause excessive moisture. If the pot is too small, the root development will be restricted. Before potting, whether it is a new pot or an old pot, it must be cleaned and fully absorbed by water before it can be used. In order to facilitate drainage, tiles, broken bricks, shells, etc. should be filled at the bottom of the pot when potting, and the drainage material should reach one-fourth of the pot. Then put a layer of culture soil and put the plant in the center. It should not be buried too deep. If the roots are found to be injured during planting, the damaged part should be cut off, and the incision should be coated with charcoal powder or sulfur powder. After drying for a while, plant it again. In places where conditions permit, cacti can be planted in the planting bed of the greenhouse, and the growth is better than potted plants. However, it must be noted that the soil is well-drained. A layer of grafting seed is sown under the soil layer. Since the rootstock has a well-developed root system, applying more fertilizer can promote rapid growth. Commonly used base fertilizers include decomposed poultry manure and bone meal, which can be placed at the bottom of the pot or ground into the soil. For topdressing, you can alternate between decomposed cake fertilizer water and decomposed fish fertilizer water. During the growing season, it is once every two weeks, while grafted seedlings with rootstocks can be applied once a week. It is not advisable to use human feces and urine for fertilization, because too much nitrogen fertilizer will deform the bulb. For Epiphyllum, Euphorbia paniculata, etc., more liquid fertilizer can be used during the bud period.

When the root damage of many cactus plants has not yet recovered and during dormancy, it is forbidden to fertilize them to avoid rot. Proper fertilization during the growing season can accelerate the growth of cacti. Especially 50 cm thick gravel is used to facilitate drainage, and a higher temperature must be maintained in winter.

When the rootstock is aging or diseased, the grafted large bulb can be pulled off, dried for 2 to 3 days, and placed flat on a pot filled with dry culture soil. Do not water it, and it will soon take root. After taking root, water can be irrigated to make it slightly moist.

After cactus plants are planted for a long time, the pot soil becomes solid and acidic, which is easy to cause root rot. If conditions permit, the plant needs to be repotted once a year. The pot can be gradually enlarged according to the size of the plant, and the principle is to make it slightly larger than the plant. The time for transplantation in the greenhouse can be from March to April, or from September to October. Before transplantation, watering must be stopped for 2 to 3 days. After the culture soil in the pot is dry, carefully pull out the plant, be careful not to dig up the roots, remove the old soil, and cut off the dead and rotten roots. When checking the roots, if the inner part of the root is found to be reddish brown, this is a sign that the root has begun to rot. It should be cut off immediately and the part without reddish brown pigment should be retained. If the plant grows well, it can be transplanted without cutting and tidying. The plant that has been cut and tidied should be placed for one or two days, and then planted after it is slightly dried in the shade. If the large roots of the plant are cut and tidied, it must be dried in the shade for about a week before it can be transplanted again. After transplantation, the pot soil should be kept slightly dry for 2 to 3 days before watering, and the pot should be placed in a cool place, not in the sun, and fertilize within half a month after transplantation. If there is no condition to transplant once a year, it can be transplanted once every 2 to 3 years, but the soil should be loosened frequently to facilitate ventilation.

(III) Temperature and light
Generally, when cacti are dormant in winter, they need very high temperatures. They can safely survive the winter by maintaining about 5°C in winter. The drier the pot soil, the more cold-resistant it is.

Stable low temperatures in winter do not cause much harm to cacti plants, but large temperature differences between day and night can easily cause frost damage. Once the plant is frost-damaged, it should be gradually warmed up and must not be exposed to the sun immediately. Generally, cacti begin to grow when the temperature is above 15°C in spring, and require a large temperature difference between day and night in spring and autumn (which is similar to the original climate) to allow the plant to fully develop. In Shanghai, the growth of cactus plants in spring and autumn is much faster than in the summer with continuous high temperatures, and some varieties will go into short-term dormancy when the temperature is above 35°C in midsummer, and resume growth after autumn.

Generally, most cactus plants like sunlight, especially in winter, where they need more sufficient light. When the outside temperature reaches above 35℃ in summer, some genera and species born in the South American grasslands do not like strong light and are easily burned in the greenhouse. They should be shaded and sprayed with water to cool down. Generally, tall columnar and flat cactus plants are more resistant to strong light and can be placed outdoors in summer without shading. However, smaller spherical species and seedlings of general cactus plants should be placed in semi-shade to avoid direct sunlight in summer.

(IV) Watering and fertilization
Cactus plants are more drought-resistant than other ornamental plants, but it should never be unilaterally believed that cactus plants require a dry environment at all times, and neglecting reasonable watering and spraying will cause the plants to shrink and age.

Cactus plants cultivated in Shanghai generally dormant from November to March of the following year. During this period, watering should be restrained to keep the soil from being too dry. The lower the temperature, the drier the pot soil should be. Usually, water once every 1 to 2 weeks in winter, before noon on sunny days. As the temperature rises, the dormancy of the plant is gradually lifted, and the number of watering can be gradually increased. During the growing season from April to October, the plant should be watered fully. The higher the temperature, the more water should be used. If the soil in the pot has good drainage, it is fine to water once a day. When watering, the principle of "don't water unless it is dry, water only when it is completely dry, don't water if you don't water, and water enough if you do water" should be followed. When watering, for some spherical species with concave tops, be careful not to pour water into the concave part to prevent the growth point from rotting, especially when watering in the evening. Here, for some species with fine long hairs, do not splash water on the long hairs when watering to affect the appearance.

The water quality for watering should not contain too much sodium chloride and other saline-alkali substances. Rainwater and river water can be used. If tap water is used, it should be drained and stored for 1 to 2 days before use.

(V) Disease and Pest Control
Cactus plants often suffer from rot due to improper watering or poor drainage. The symptom is that brown soft rot occurs in the base tissue, which then spreads upward and causes the whole plant to die. After discovery, the rotten tissue should be removed with a sharp knife in time, and the disease-free part at the top should be grafted or cut. Bactericides can be sprayed regularly in the greenhouse to eliminate pathogens and prevent them. Of course, the most fundamental thing is to improve the cultivation management technology and the ventilation conditions of the greenhouse. In addition, if the soil is too poor, too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the temperature is too high, and the light is insufficient, the plant will develop poorly, the tender stems will fall off early, and rust spots, corky spots, dark green translucent spots and other physiological disease symptoms will be produced on the stem nodes. Attention should also be paid to improving the cultivation conditions and preventing and controlling them as soon as possible.

Cacti and succulent plants are sometimes infected with coal disease and iron rust. Coal disease first occurs on the thorn points of the plant, with small black and tender spots attached, like coal dust, and then gradually spreads to the whole plant. If this disease occurs, it can be washed with disinfectant soap solution or prevented with sulfur mixture. Rust disease causes the top of the plant or the tip of the branches and leaves and the green outer skin to appear reddish-brown rust color, which not only damages the appearance but also hinders growth. The production of rust disease is mostly caused by the parasitic spread of red spider mites, which can be sprayed with pesticides. For example, if the plant is weak and grows poorly, it is also prone to rust disease. Fertilizers should be applied in time and environmental conditions should be improved.

4. Zygocactus truncactus 

(I) Overview
Zygocactus truncactus, also known as crab claw and crab claw lotus, is native to Brazil. It was introduced to Europe in the 19th century. After hybrid breeding, horticultural varieties have been continuously enriched and currently there are more than 200 species. Zygocactus truncactus is deeply loved by people because of its winter flowers, bright colors, peculiar flower shapes and long flowering period. It is a winter potted flower with broad prospects.

Denmark is the kingdom of Zygocactus production in the world. 90% of the Zygocactus varieties produced in large quantities in Japan come from Denmark. Originally, only professional units had a small number of varieties on display. Later, with the development of international exchanges, the number of varieties gradually increased. In Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangdong, Shanghai and other places, Christmas cactus has been commercially produced. Hangzhou Flower Garden has introduced species from home and abroad and carried out rapid propagation since 1993. At present, there are more than 40 varieties, which have been put on the market in batches. With the development of the situation, Zhejiang is expected to become the main production area of ​​Christmas cactus potted flowers.

(II) Characteristics
Christmas cactus is a succulent plant of the genus Christmas cactus. It is native to the cold and foggy subalpine zone near Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. It grows on tree trunks or shaded and moist rocks. Christmas cactus likes a semi-shady, humid, ventilated and cool environment. It requires slightly acidic fertile loam with good drainage and ventilation. The suitable temperature for growth is 15-25℃. It enters semi-dormancy below 5℃. When it is below 0℃, frost damage will occur.

Christmas cactus is a short-day plant. Its natural flowering period, depending on the variety, is mostly from November to December. Single flowers can bloom for 1 to 3 weeks, and the viewing period of 2-year-old potted flowers can reach more than a month, and the flowering period of the entire group is more than 3 months.

(III) Schlumbergera and Fairy Finger
Schlumbergera and Fairy Finger are similar in shape and easily confused. Fairy Finger (Schiumbedgerebridgesii) belongs to the genus Fairy Finger of the Cactaceae family. The difference between the two is that the flowering period of Schlumbergera is from mid-November to late January of the following year, while the flowering period of Fairy Finger is from mid-January to early March. Therefore, people often distinguish them by the names of early-flowering species and late-flowering species. However, the native species of both have obvious differences in the morphology of the leaf-like stems. The protrusions around the leaf-like stems of Schlumbergera are sharp-angled, while the protrusions around the leaf-like stems of Fairy Finger are wavy. The formal formation of the flowers of the two is also different. The flowers of Schlumbergera are bilaterally symmetrical, while the flowers of Fairy Finger are relatively regular. However, among the colorful horticultural varieties today, many are interspecific hybrids, and the morphology of their leaf stems and flowers is often in the middle type. Therefore, the flowering period is still used as a distinction. The early-flowering species are the Christmas cactus group, and the late-flowering species are the fairy finger group. Among them, the Christmas cactus group is the popular flower in the world today.

(IV) Cultivation technology
1. Facilities, materials and substrate

(l) Facilities and materials

According to the habits of Christmas cactus, in Zhejiang Province, Christmas cactus cultivation requires sunshade and rain shelter in summer and autumn, and insulation and heating in winter. Therefore, Christmas cactus cultivation needs to be carried out under protective facilities. In profit-making production, steel pipe plastic greenhouses can meet production needs and reduce costs. They are ideal facilities for cultivating Christmas cactus.

In order to facilitate operation and prevent water accumulation, the greenhouse needs to be made into ridges, usually four ridges.

In summer and autumn, a sunshade net must be used, with a sunshade rate of 50%. In the whole winter, a small arch shed needs to be used for warmth, and geothermal lines are installed as needed, and a temperature automatic control device is also installed.

The above-mentioned facilities are adapted to local conditions. If conditions permit, an all-weather greenhouse can be used for high-input, high-output factory production.

(2) Substrate

cultivation of Christmas cactus requires a loose, well-drained, slightly acidic substrate with a certain degree of fertility. In Japanese factory production, the substrate is prepared with peat: vermiculite: perlite = 60:30:10, and the pH value is adjusted to 5.8 and the EC value is 0.5ms. For profitable cultivation, it is necessary to use local materials and prepare them reasonably. The substrate materials that can be used include: peat, leaf mold (orchid mud), burnt mud ash, garden soil, mushroom residue, sawdust, coconut bran, rice husk ash, perlite, vermiculite, etc. The substrate materials used must be free of pathogens and weeds. For garden soil and the like, the topsoil must be removed when collecting, and it must be spread thinly and exposed to the sun. Sawdust and other organic materials must be piled up and decomposed before use.

The matrix preparation is diverse, and the following volume ratios are given as examples: ① peat: perlite = 85:15; ② leaf humus: mushroom residue = 50:50; ③ leaf humus: coconut husk = 50:50; ④ peat: vermiculite: perlite = 60:30:10; ⑤ sawdust: rice husk ash = 50:30:20; ⑥ leaf humus: rice husk ash: burnt mud ash = 50:25:25. The

above matrix ratios are suitable for cutting propagation, and those used for potting should be appropriately increased with decomposed organic fertilizer.

As a modern production, pH and EC values ​​should be measured when preparing the matrix, and the prepared matrix should be uniformly disinfected. The agent can be 70% dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane (dichlorobenzene) wettable powder, which should be watered with 500 times the dilution. The general dosage is 15 to 20 kilograms per cubic meter.

2. The

asexual reproduction of Schlumbergera is usually done by grafting and cuttings, while sexual reproduction is used for hybrid breeding.

(1) Grafting

① Rootstock: The commonly used species are Triangle and the more plump species of the genus Opuntia. The cold resistance of Schlumbergera is slightly weaker.

② Time: Grafting can be done from late March to early October, and the best grafting effect is from spring to early summer. First, the temperature is suitable, and the grafting survival rate is high. Second, the growth time after grafting is long. In summer, the temperature is high, and the rootstock and scion are almost in a semi-dormant state, which is not conducive to growth. Although the temperature is suitable in autumn, the growth time after grafting is short. If there are good greenhouse conditions, grafting can be done all year round. In addition, the grafting operation is best done on sunny days or days with low air humidity.

③ Method: The cleft grafting method is often used for Schlumbergera grafting. According to the needs, leave the rootstock 15 to 30 cm high for cross-sectioning. For the scion, the edge of the cut surface should be appropriately beveled to prevent the cut surface from being concave. Then cut a few wedge-shaped cracks on the cross section and the side. The depth must reach the pith of the rootstock. Then, cut off the epidermis on both sides of the lower part of the scion to make the base duck-billed. After cutting, immediately insert the wedge-shaped crack so that the scion is in contact with the pith of the rootstock. Then use a long thorn or a thin bamboo stick to insert and fix it. The scion should have 2 to 4 nodes. For large pots, multi-layer grafting is required. The operation should be agile, and the grafting knife should be disinfected with alcohol at any time.

④ Management after grafting: The grafted plants should be placed in a ventilated and dry place indoors to avoid water or liquid medicine splashing on the wound. The fixings should be removed 5 days after grafting. Generally, it can be basically healed in 7 to 10 days. The grafted scion is bright green and upright. After 15 days, it can be transferred to routine management.

Although grafting propagation has many processes, it is still a good method for small-scale production, making potted plants, and introducing and rescuing varieties.

(2) Cuttings

should be used for large-scale production of Christmas cactus. This method is simple to operate and easy to manage in a unified manner. Moreover, the utilization rate of facilities is high and the finished products are fast. It is a low-cost and high-efficiency production method.

① Time: The cutting time for large-scale production is divided into spring and autumn. Spring cuttings are carried out from March to April, and no later than May. If cuttings are carried out too late, it will be inconvenient to operate due to the germination of new techniques; autumn cuttings start in mid-September and are carried out in combination with potted pinching. If there are good winter heating conditions, autumn cuttings should be the focus, because autumn cutting potted plants have been cultivated for 14 months and are at the right age and suitable period for going out of

the nursery. ② Cutting method: The cutting container should be an 8 cm × 10 cm plastic nutrient pot. The mixed substrate should be placed in the nutrient pot for standby use. If the substrate is too dry, it can be properly watered half a day before cutting for ease of operation. Picking spikes: Take 1 to 2 mature stem nodes as cuttings according to the growth of the mother plant. Picking spikes can be done by hand twisting. For slightly older stem nodes, it is advisable to use a knife to cut them. The removed stem nodes are immediately processed to remove the irregular, broken and diseased nodes, and the segmentation is done as appropriate. Then the cuttings are spread flat in a container and placed in a dark and ventilated place. Depending on the weather conditions, they are dried for 2 to 3 days. The wounds are fully dried before cuttings. Cuttings: Cuttings should be made according to the consistency of cutting size, number of nodes and maturity. Generally, 6 cuttings are made in one pot, arranged in a double layer at an angle of 120 degrees. For thicker cuttings, 3 cuttings can be made in one pot. Flat bamboo sticks should be used for cuttings to improve work efficiency and prevent cuttings from being damaged. The cutting depth is about 1/2 of the cutting length. When inserting, pay attention to the front of the cutting facing inward and keep it upright. After inserting, water uniformly with a fine spray bottle, and the amount of water should be controlled to make the substrate moist. If the substrate is relatively wet and the weather is rainy, watering can be temporarily stopped, and watering can be done when the substrate is slightly dry. Management after cutting: Cuttings should be shaded. Cuttings are affected by factors such as temperature. Generally, they will start to take root after 10 to 15 days. At this time, the covering can be gradually covered later and uncovered earlier, and gradually exposed to light. The covering can be removed when the root system is basically formed. During this period, water appropriately according to the dryness and wetness of the atmosphere and the substrate. Before the root system is formed, strictly control the amount of watering. Fertilization can be applied one and a half months after cutting.

3. Maintenance and management

(1) Water and fertilizer management

① Watering: According to its growth habits, watering should not be too much. Excessive moisture will cause root rot. Generally, water once every 3 to 4 days in March to April and September to October; once every 1 to 2 days in May to August; and once every 5 to 6 days from November to February of the following year. In specific operations, it is also necessary to flexibly control according to weather conditions and observe the humidity of the potting soil. In addition, in summer, it is best not to water at noon. In winter, it is best to water after 10 am and before 3 pm, and try to control the amount of water.

② Fertilization: Fertilization starts in March, using compound fertilizers with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, watering with a 0.2% to 0.3% aqueous solution, once a week as appropriate. July to August is the high temperature period, so stop fertilizing. From September to November, you can switch to compound fertilizers with high phosphorus and potassium content, once a week. No more fertilization during the flowering period and the dormant period from flowering to February. However, for autumn cuttings and seedlings that are heated in winter, thin fertilizers can be given as appropriate. The fertilizer granules must be fully dissolved, and the fertilizer solution concentration must be kept uniform during use.

(2) Shading and temperature management

In Zhejiang Province, shade nets should be installed around mid-May until September, and should be removed as soon as possible according to weather conditions.

In terms of temperature management, after the weather warms up, the apron film on both sides of the greenhouse should be removed, and the door should be opened for ventilation. In midsummer, the plastic film on both ends of the greenhouse should be removed to enhance ventilation and cool down. Then gradually recover from the end of autumn. When cultivating Christmas cactus in Zhejiang, attention should be paid to winter heat preservation. Generally, a small arch shed should be built from the evening to the morning from late November. First, a layer of plastic film should be applied. As the temperature drops, non-woven fabric should be added inside. Depending on the situation, straw bags or non-woven fabric should be added under the shed to prevent cold. From late December, geothermal heating should be used, and the ground temperature sensor should be controlled at 15℃ to ensure that the temperature of the potted layer is around 8℃. If there are good heating facilities, the minimum temperature should be controlled at 12℃. On sunny days with clear wind, the temperature in the shed will rise quickly. When the temperature exceeds 22℃, the plastic film on the side should be pulled open appropriately to provide ventilation to avoid the temperature being too high.

To facilitate temperature management, a maximum and minimum temperature gauge should be set at the same height as the potted plants.

(3) Pinching

After entering the short-day period, the tips of mature stem nodes begin to differentiate into flower buds. After about 20 days, flower buds appear one after another, while immature stem nodes do not form flower buds. Therefore, in order to make the plants bloom uniformly, pinching should be carried out in a timely manner.

In Zhejiang Province, it is advisable to start pinching in early to mid-September. The main purpose is to remove the immature nodes at the tip, and at the same time, remove the small nodes that are too dense, so that the nutrients are concentrated, the plants are beautiful, and the flowers bloom well. Pinching can be done by hand, and the nodes are left according to the age of the seedlings. Generally, 3 to 4 nodes are left for two-year-old seedlings; 4 to 5 nodes are left for three-year-old seedlings. The mature branches picked can be used for autumn cuttings. (

4) Potting For large potted plants, potting should be done in a timely manner. Potting should be done in March. If there are individual plants with poor growth in the potted plants, they should be separated so that the new potted plants grow in the same way. If there are rotten roots, they should be cut off immediately to facilitate re-growth. When preparing the culture soil for potting, you can add about 20% of the total amount of decomposed manure to the original cutting medium formula, or mix in a small amount of organic fertilizer, such as cake fertilizer, bone meal, etc. The original 8 cm × 10 cm pot can be potted into a 10 cm × 12 cm pot. (5) Disease and Pest Control The main pests and diseases that harm Christmas cactus are scale insects, red spider mites, noctuid moths and root rot. ① Scale insects: Plants with dense stem nodes, especially large plants, are easily harmed by scale insects due to poor ventilation and other reasons. In severe cases, the plants will dry up and the stem nodes will fall off. A small number of insects can be manually brushed off. If drugs are used for control, it must be done shortly after hatching and before the surface of the insect body is waxed. 50% Marathon Emulsion 1000 times or Speed ​​Kill (Speed ​​Shell) 2000 times can be sprayed. Generally, spray 2 to 3 times in a row between April and May. ② Red spider mites: Red spider mites spread quickly in a hot, dry and poorly ventilated environment. The affected plants grow weak, and yellow-brown spots appear on the stem nodes. In severe cases, they will fall off. In management, attention should be paid to ventilation, cooling and warming. For drug control, 40% omethoate emulsion is usually used at 500-2000 times or 20% dicofol emulsion at 1000-1500 times for spraying. ③ Spodoptera litura: In June, there are often larvae of Spodoptera litura that damage plants and can reproduce for several generations, so they need to be killed continuously. 40% Lorsban emulsion can be used at 1000-1500 times to irrigate the potting soil. ④ Grubs: That is, the larvae of scarab beetles. Overwintering grubs are active in March and April and bite the roots, while July and August are the period of damage for newly hatched grubs of the year. 50% phoxim emulsion can be used at 1000-1500 times to irrigate the roots. ⑤ Leaf roller: The larvae of leaf roller bite the tender stems of Christmas cactus and cause damage. Overwintering larvae begin to cause damage when the temperature rises, with 3-4 generations a year, and the damage lasts for a long time. When a small amount occurs, it can be killed manually. When the number of larvae is large, 1000 times of 50% methyl parathion emulsion or 3000 times of cypermethrin can be used for spraying. ⑥ Root rot: There are many reasons for root rot, mainly physiological diseases. When the plant has root rot, it is manifested as the leaf-like stem gradually loses its luster and becomes lighter in green. Some will grow adventitious roots between the stem nodes, and in severe cases, it will be withered. There are several situations that cause root rot: excessive watering in winter, coupled with high and low temperatures. Excessive watering in hot summer, the root tip is steamed at high temperatures at noon, and long-term excessive watering or rain. Therefore, in daily management, the weather and season should be considered, the watering time should be strictly controlled, the water volume should be controlled, and a wind curtain should be added at the entrance in winter to prevent sudden changes in temperature. For plants that have already developed root rot, in mild cases, the rotten part of the root tip should be cut off, the withered stem nodes should be removed and re-potted. The substrate should use a formula with lower fertilizer content, and watering should be strictly controlled. Fertilization can only be applied after normal growth. In severe cases, the upper unrotten stem nodes can be taken for re-cutting. The above maintenance and management is aimed at large-scale production of cutting propagation. For grafted seedlings, it is particularly necessary to strengthen the prevention and control of scale insects, and it is also necessary to carry out frame shaping. Potted plants with Osmanthus fragrans as rootstocks must be kept warm in winter to prevent frost damage to the rootstock. For Christmas cactus cultivated at home, care should be taken to avoid light at night from September, otherwise the plants will not get short-day conditions, which will affect the setting and flowering. (V) Flowering period regulation Based on the short-day nature of Christmas cactus, the flowering period can be adjusted by controlling light during production. According to market demand, short-day treatment is used for early flowering relative to the natural flowering period, while long-day treatment is used for delayed flowering. Foreign countries have used long-day and short-day treatments for year-round flowering production. The age of the plants for adjusting the flowering period should be more than one year. 1. Short-day treatment (1) Treatment time The suitable temperature for Schlumbergera cactus bud differentiation and bud formation is 20-25℃ during the day and 15-20℃ at night. If the daytime temperature exceeds 30℃ and the nighttime temperature is above 25℃, the formation of flower buds will be hindered. In view of the climate conditions in Zhejiang, in order to have flowers available in October, short-day treatment is generally started in early August. If it is in a cold mountainous area, it can be started earlier to achieve the effect of flowering on National Day. (2) Light hours Provide 8-9 hours of sunlight per day, generally from 8:30 am (8:00) to 4:30 pm (4:00), and provide natural sunlight. (3) Shading treatment In addition to providing 8-9 hours of natural sunlight, strict shading is performed. During the shading time, the light intensity is below 5Lx. Shading materials can be a combination of shade nets and black cloth to maintain a certain degree of air permeability. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : In profit-making cultivation, experiments must be performed one by one before batch processing can be processed. (VI) When the flower buds are colored and their length is 2 to 3 cm, they can be launched. For potted flowers that are ready for market, they should remove the black plastic soft pots used for cultivation, replace them with the same specifications of hard plastic pots, and pay attention to the matching of the patterns and colors to facilitate sales. For short-distance supply, it can be shipped in containers. If long-distance transportation is required, the plant bags can be placed flat in the carton. The bags used for the bags are not sealed up on the upper and lower sides. Small holes must be installed on the side of the packaging carton to facilitate ventilation. If the volume is required, the plant can be depotted so that the plant and the pot can be packaged separately. Section 8 Woody Flowers 1. Poinsettia Euphorbia pulcherrima  Poinsettia, also known as orangutan wood and ivory red, is an evergreen shrub of the Euphorbia family. The natural flowering period of Poinsettia is a few days before Christmas, so it is also known as Christmas red. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Before mid-October, the light should be kept at 37,800 to 43,200 lux; before November 7, the ideal light intensity before the harvest of flower is usually 21,600 to 30,240 lux. 5. The relative humidity is generally 60 to 90%; in order to avoid infection with powdery mildew and gray mold, the humidity should be kept below 75%. 6. The pH value of water quality is 6.0 to 7.0, and the EC value is less than 1ms/cm. (III) The quality of seedlings is not easy to distinguish from the appearance. Since the production of seedlings has strict requirements on the breeding of the parent plant, the control of the environment, and the prevention and control of diseases, the quality can be ensured by choosing the products of a professional seedling company; general seedlings should have: good root development, white color, moderate height (6 to 8 cm), and 3 to 4 mature leaves. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : When formulating a production schedule for Poinsettia, the following issues should be paid attention to: First, before September 21, if short-day treatment is necessary, a light-blocking curtain must be used to block the black. The black-blocking measures can be cancelled after the first two weeks of October, so the number of natural light hours at the time is basically the same as the number of hours used for short-day treatment. If a short-day treatment is planned to be carried out from September 21, then fill-up should be carried out starting from September 5 until the day when the short-day treatment begins. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  :  : : : :  : : : :  : :  :  :  :  :  :  :  :  :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  : :  :  :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  :  :  :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  :  :  :  :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  :  :  : : : :  : : :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Afraid of sun exposure, it can grow normally in a shady environment and a shaded environment. Red bananas do not have strict requirements on soil and prefer humus soil with strong water resistance, and can also grow in barren sandy soil. It is not resistant to saline and alkali, has poor growth in acidic soil, has poor water and moisture resistance, and has poor drought resistance. If water is lacking, the leaves will be dry and lose their luster and darken. Large leaf species have poor wind resistance, and the leaves will be fragmented after being exposed to wind. (II) Propagation and cultivation 1. Sowing and breeding bananas mature in late summer and early autumn. The seeds are large. After the berries are ripe, they will be harvested, washed and dried, and then sow on demand, and the room temperature is maintained above 24°C, and germination will be unearthed in about 15 days. When the seedlings grow to about 5cm, move into small flower pots, and one plant in each pot, and continue to cultivate. 2. Cutting propagation: Cultivate some tall plants in the flowerbed as mother plant. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : If it is for home furnishings, the shape of the plant should not be too large and should be controlled. If the air is dry, water should be sprayed on the leaves every day, and the soil in the pot should be kept moist and rather wet than dry. Liquid fertilizer should be applied several times in spring and autumn, and top dressing should not be top dressing in summer and pay attention to prevent heatstroke and cooling. If the indoor heat is stuffy, it should be moved to the outdoor shroud. Move into a medium-temperature greenhouse or indoors with heating equipment for winter, and there will be more sunshine. You can go out to the room for maintenance in early May of the following year. The perennial old plants will grow taller and taller, and the old leaves will fall off one by one, and the stems will be bare, which will hinder it. You should combine cutting strips to promote multiple side branches. After the short cut, fertilizer and water management should be strengthened to promote the germination of dormant buds as soon as possible. (3) Use indoor potted leaves to view leaves, and you can also cut leaves. 3. Dracaena draco  (1) Ecological habits Dracaena draco is an evergreen tree of the Agave family, and is the tallest one of the genus. It likes sufficient sunshine, is also very shade-resistant, is suitable for high-temperature and humid environments, and is suitable for indoor cultivation. As long as the temperature conditions are appropriate, it is in a growing state all year round. However, it is best to let it sleep in winter. The dormant temperature is 13℃, and the lowest temperature in winter must not be lower than 5℃. If the temperature is too low, yellowish-brown spots or patches will appear on the tips and edges of the leaves. (2) Propagation and cultivation of dragon blood trees are mostly propagated by cutting methods. Annual and perennial stems can be used as propagation materials, and can be used as soil and water. When reproduction, you should pay attention to: (1) The temperature should be above 25℃, and high temperature is conducive to rooting. (2) The substrate, water, and containers should be clean, otherwise it will be easy to rot. (3) The cutting length is 5-10cm. (4) Pay attention to the polarity of the cuttings and do not penetrate. (5) The depth of the cuttings is 2-3cm; the entire cutting can also be buried in the soil. It can take root in 30-60 days and grow into a new plant. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :  : : : :  : : : : : : : : : : : :  :  : : :