Cultivation and appreciation of common flowers in the home (I)

     Flower plant name: Gardenia
    [Other names] Linlan, Mudan, Yuetao, Muhengzhi.
    [Family] Rubiaceae

　　Gardenia has white flowers and strong fragrance. In addition to being ornamental, it can also be worn. Its fruit can also be used as medicine, with anti-inflammatory and detoxification effects. In addition, the leaves of gardenia are evergreen, resistant to smoke and sulfur dioxide, and are an ideal environmentally friendly greening flower.
　　Gardenia is native to the southwest. At present, the main cultivated varieties and their variants are large-leaf gardenia (also known as large-flowered gardenia), with large leaves, large flowers, double petals, and strong fragrance; water gardenia, with short plants, small flowers and small leaves, double petals; single-petal sparrow tongue, with small leaves and small flowers, single petals, and mostly wild. There are also egg-leaf gardenia and small-leaf gardenia.
　　1. Soil: It is advisable to use fertile acidic soil rich in humus for cultivation, which is the key to successful cultivation in northern families. Generally, you can choose to use humus soil plus 1 part of decomposed bean cake fertilizer, and at the same time add a certain amount of ferrous sulfate, or use 0.2% ferrous sulfate or alum fertilizer water to drench 3 to 5 times after potting.
　　2. Cultivation: When planting with cuttings and layering seedlings, ensure that the root system of the plant is fully stretched, and fill the gaps in the root system with fine soil. The density of the filled soil is about 85%, and it is important to tighten the bottom and loosen the top, with a depth of about 1 cm above the root system. Water thoroughly after planting, generally with water seeping from the bottom of the pot.　
　　3. Management and maintenance: Gardenia requires a high air humidity. The principle of watering is to water thoroughly when it is dry, and it is better to water with rainwater, snow water or fermented rice water. During the growing season, water once every 7 to 10 days with 0.2% ferrous sulfate water or apply alum fertilizer water. In summer, gardenia should be placed in a place with scattered light under the shade of a tree for maintenance. In spring, summer and early autumn, water and spray water on the leaves frequently to increase humidity. In winter, it is better to place it in the sun, stop fertilizing, and do not water too much. You can often use water close to room temperature to flush the branches and leaves to keep the leaves clean, especially in rooms with heating in the north. Do not place the flower pot in front of the radiator or air conditioner to avoid leaf dehydration.
　　4. Pest and disease control: Gardenia is prone to scale insects, red spider mites and sooty mold in summer when the temperature is high and ventilation is poor. You can spray 40% dimethoate EC 1000 times to prevent scale insects, 40% trichlorfon EC 1000 to 1500 times to prevent red spider mites, and it can also reduce the occurrence of sooty mold. For safety reasons, families can spray with laundry detergent liquid, which also has a certain effect.
　　5. Repotting: Generally, repotting is done once every 1 to 2 years, and it is best to do it in spring. In order to effectively prevent the alkalinization of the potting soil, repotting can be done once a year. Before repotting, the pot must be buckled. The potting should be done when the pot is slightly loose after drying. Generally, stop watering for about 10 days. When repotting, cut off some roots, such as diseased and insect roots, and overly dense roots, and then plant.
　　6. Shaping and pruning: Generally carried out in spring, cut off the overly long branches, weak branches and other branches that affect the plant shape to maintain the beautiful plant shape. Gardenia flowers bloom on the top, and the top can be pinched appropriately during the growing season to promote the growth of flower branches and increase the number of flowers.
　　Gardenia can be planted in spring, summer and autumn, but the survival rate of cuttings is higher in spring from March to April. When cutting, cut 1 to 2 year old branches from the healthy mother plant, cut into cuttings of about 20 cm, each section should have more than 3 nodes, cut off the lower leaves and then quickly immerse the lower cut in 500ppm rooting powder solution for 15 seconds, take out and dry the solution slightly before cutting. Before planting, draw lines and dot the trimmed seedbed according to the row spacing of 10 cm × 7 cm, and use a small wooden stick to punch holes on the points, then insert 2/3 of the cuttings into the holes, compact the surrounding soil and water to keep it moist, weed and topdress after survival, and plant out when the seedlings grow to about 50 cm.
　　Fertilization Gardenia is not a flower that likes fertilizer very much, but because it grows vigorously and is limited by the nutrients in the potting soil, it needs to be reasonably supplemented with fertilizer during the growth period. Apply decomposed human feces or cake fertilizer once every 10 days or so, stop watering one day before fertilization, and water thoroughly once on the day of fertilization. Stop fertilizing from mid-September. For adult plants, apply sesame sauce residue once in mid-June and mid-August, 0.5-1 liang each time, crush and mix thoroughly with the topsoil.
　 Watering Gardenia likes a lot of water, and some people call it "water gardenia". In the spring in the north, due to the strong winds, dry air and little rainfall, water the gardenia every three days, and sprinkle water around the potted flowers every morning and evening to increase the air humidity. In summer, after the beginning of the dog days, the weather is hot, so water less in the morning and water thoroughly after 2 pm. It is better to irrigate with soft water in summer, because hard water contains more calcium and magnesium salts, which is very unfavorable to the growth of gardenias. In mild cases, the branches and leaves turn yellow, and in severe cases, the gardenias die quickly. In order to overcome the alkalinity of the soil and water, water the gardenias with alum fertilizer once a week during the growing season to keep the branches and leaves of the gardenias green. Watering should be controlled in winter. If the
　　soil is not dry, water it. Excessive water content for a long time can easily cause root rot and death. Diseases and pests Gardenias are often prone to chlorosis, which is caused by a variety of reasons, so different measures must be taken to prevent and control them. Chlorosis caused by lack of fertilizer: This chlorosis starts from the old leaves at the bottom of the plant and gradually spreads to the new leaves. Nitrogen deficiency: The leaves turn yellow, and the new leaves are small and brittle. Potassium deficiency: Old leaves turn from green to brown. Phosphorus deficiency: Old leaves turn purple or dark red. For the above situations, you can force the application of decomposed human feces or cake fertilizer.

    Flower plant name: Kalanchoe oleracea
    [Other names] Dwarf Kalanchoe, Longevity Flower, False Sichuan Lotus.
    [Scientific name] Kalanchoeblossfeldiana
    [Family] Crassulaceae, Kalanchoe genus.

　　Perennial evergreen fleshy herb. Stem erect, 10 to 30 cm high. Single leaves opposite, oval, oblong, tall varieties have larger leaves, short varieties have small and dense leaves. Leaf margins have blunt teeth, dark green, shiny, often red at low temperatures. Conical cymes, bright red, orange-red, pink, yellow, white, etc. Blooms twice in spring and autumn.
　　Kalanchoe is a short plant, with stems 15 to 30 cm high, many branches, and can grow naturally into a short and compact plant without pruning. Leaves are thick and fleshy, opposite, oval-oblong, with serrated edges, dark green, and shiny. After mid-November, cone-shaped cymes emerge from the tops and axils of each branch, with 100 to 200 flowers per plant. Although the single flower is small, it is closely arranged and clustered, with a good overall ornamental effect. The flowers are scarlet, pink, orange, and bright red, which are very gorgeous. The natural flowering period is long, from December to late April or even May. If short-day treatment is used and the temperature is suitable, flowers can be seen all year round. When the flowers are in bloom, the family can appreciate the flowers, and when there are no flowers, the leaves can be appreciated. It is an ideal indoor flower. The key points of its cultivation are as follows:
　　1. The pot should be small and transparent, and it is best planted in loose sandy soil
　　. Kalanchoe grows best when planted in a permeable earthenware pot, but it is not beautiful when placed indoors. It can be covered with a plastic pot or a porcelain pot, or it can be directly planted in a small purple sand pot or a plastic pot. When planting, put a layer of broken charcoal blocks or broken hard plastic foam blocks at the bottom of the pot to enhance its permeability. Plant 3 to 6 plants in a pot with an inner diameter of 10 to 20 cm.
　　Although it is not very selective about soil, it is easy to rot in heavy clay, and grows best in loose, fertile, slightly acidic sandy loam. For home potted plants, it is advisable to mix equal amounts of leaf mold and topsoil from the vegetable garden, and then add 5% to 8% sand as the culture soil. Add some bone meal or nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer as base fertilizer when planting.
　　2. Moderately control water for lush leaves, more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers for bright flowers
　　. Kalanchoe is a succulent plant with more water in its body, so it is more drought-resistant and afraid of waterlogging. It grows well under dry air conditions in high-rise buildings. In spring and autumn, water thoroughly after the pot soil is dry for about 3 days, and keep it slightly moist. In summer, it is better to water less, and it is better to water once every 5 to 7 days. Kalanchoe placed outdoors should be protected from rain in the rainy season. Too much water will easily rot the roots and leaves, or even die. Properly control water when the pot soil is dry and wet, then there will be lush branches and leaves and many flowers. After entering the room in winter, it is advisable to water it at noon with water close to room temperature, and water it once a week or
　　so. Kalanchoe likes fertilizer. After the seedlings are potted and planted for half a month or the old plants are divided for half a month, liquid fertilizer mainly composed of nitrogen can be applied 2 to 3 times to promote the growth of stems and leaves. After flowering, liquid fertilizer mainly composed of nitrogen can be applied once to promote its rejuvenation. In addition to stopping application in summer, only nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer can be applied. When applying fertilizer, do not get fertilizer on the leaves, otherwise the leaves will rot easily. If the leaves are accidentally stained, they should be washed off with water. Kalanchoe has a long flowering period. It is necessary to break the rule of not applying fertilizer during the flowering period. Apply a thin nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once a month to prevent the flowers from becoming smaller and lighter due to lack of fertilizer in the later period.
　　3. Likes sunlight and tolerates semi-shade, fears extreme heat in summer and cold in winter.
　　Kalanchoe likes a sunny environment. Except for a little shade at noon in midsummer, it should be placed in a sunny place at other times. It must be exposed to direct sunlight for at least 4 hours a day to grow healthily. The flower pots should be rotated 180 degrees every half month on the balcony of the building to make it receive light evenly and avoid crown eccentricity, which will reduce the ornamental value. Although it can grow in semi-shaded places, the stems are thin, the leaves are thin, the flowers are few and the colors are light, which is far less lush than in sunny places. If it is too shady, not only will it be easy to lose leaves and flowers, but even if the flowering plants are placed in the shade, the color will become dim, and then the flowers will fall off and wither.
　　The most suitable temperature for the growth of Kalanchoe is 15℃ to 25℃. Above 30℃, the growth will be slow and enter a semi-dormant state. Below 10℃, the growth will stagnate. Below 8℃, the leaves will turn red and the flowering period will be delayed. Below 0℃, it is easy to freeze to death. Therefore, to keep Kalanchoe well, it is necessary to create a small environment for it that is warm in winter and cool in summer. Avoid strong sunlight at noon in midsummer and place it in a semi-shaded place with sufficient scattered light, such as under a big tree, under the eaves or on a north-facing balcony. Pay special attention to ventilation and cooling. You can sprinkle water on the ground nearby, but not on the plants. After the beginning of autumn, from late August to early September, it can gradually see the sun, and from October onwards, it should see more sun to promote its transformation from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. When the lowest temperature drops to around 10 ℃, move it indoors and place it in front of a south-facing or west-facing window sill so that it can see more sun, keep it at 10 ℃ at night and 15 ℃ to 18 ℃ during the day, and it will bloom in December.
　　4. Cuttings and divisions are easy to propagate, and pinching promotes branching .
　　After the longevity flower has not set seeds, one way of propagation is cutting. After the flowers fade, apply liquid fertilizer mainly composed of nitrogen to promote its rejuvenation. In May and June, cut a 4 cm to 6 cm long stem segment with 5 to 7 leaves. After the cut ends are dried, insert it directly into a small pot filled with plain soil, with three plants in each pot in the shape of a "pin". Place it in a semi-shaded place. After half a month, roots and new leaves will appear, indicating that it has survived. Pinch it once or twice to promote more branches and more flowering. July is not suitable for cuttings due to high temperatures. Cuttings can be taken from mid-to-late August to early September. They can also bloom in the following spring, but not as much as those taken in May or June. The second method is division. After the old plants have spent the summer, they should be repotted and soil changed in late August to early September, otherwise their growth will decline. At the same time, the larger plants can be cut into several clumps with a sharp knife and planted separately. After they survive, they should be pinched once or twice to promote more branches and more flowering.

    Botanical name: Jasmine
    Alias: Jasmine
    Latin name: Jasminum sambac
    Family name: Oleaceae

Name: Jasmine

    Morphological characteristics: It is an evergreen shrub. The branches are slender. The leaves are alternate. Oval and shiny. Cymes, terminal or axillary. There are 3 to 9 flowers in a cluster, the corolla is white, and the fragrant flowering period is from June to October.
    Growth habits: It likes warm and humid conditions. If the winter temperature is lower than 3℃, it will suffer from frost damage. It grows best in a ventilated and semi-shady environment. It is afraid of cold, drought, and is not tolerant to waterlogging. The suitable temperature for growth is 25-35℃, and it can safely overwinter above 5℃. It requires loose, fertile and well-drained sandy loam with a pH value of 5.5-7. It is not drought-resistant, afraid of thinness and barrenness, and avoids long-term waterlogging.
    Reproduction and cultivation: It can be propagated by cuttings, layering and division, among which cuttings are more common. Cuttings can be combined with pruning in spring. Select 1-2 year old branches, cut into 10 cm long, insert into sandy soil, shade and moisturize after inserting, spray water 2-3 times a day, keep hot and humid, and keep the temperature above 20℃. It can take root in about a month. Cuttings generally sprout and open leaves first, and then take root. Cuttings in summer are easier to take root and have a high survival rate.

    Jasmine cultivation method
    Jasmine blooms in early summer. If managed properly, three phases of blooming can appear.
    In early June, jasmine blooms early flowers one after another, but these flowers are generally small and few. They should be picked in time, otherwise excessive consumption of nutrients will affect the quality and quantity of its future flowering, and delay the flowering period, affecting the viewing. The method of picking flowers is to remove the tender branches with leaves with flowers, so as to promote the re-growth of new branches and lush branches and leaves. At this time, apply light fertilizer water twice a week and keep the pot soil moist.
    Late June to early July is the first stage of flowering. At this time, it is necessary to strengthen fertilizer and water management, apply thin fertilizer frequently, apply fertilizer once every 2 days, apply fully decomposed organic liquid fertilizer, and the fertilizer-water ratio is 1:4. Watering should be sufficient, generally once every 2 days. Usually watering should be done in the morning, and fertilization is better in the evening. This continues until late July. Due to sufficient fertilizer and water, the flowers can bloom large and numerous.
    In early August, the second stage of flowers is formed. At this time, the fertilizer should be slightly thicker than before, and it is generally appropriate to use half fertilizer and half water. In order to promote better flowering of jasmine, superphosphate solution can also be sprayed on the leaves. By late August, gradually reduce fertilization, apply once every 6 to 7 days, and watering still needs to be more, maintain once every 2 days.
    From early September to early October, the third phase of flowers is formed. At this time, fertilization should be stopped and the amount of watering should be gradually reduced. As the weather has gradually turned cooler, it will affect the formation of flower buds, so the number of this batch of flowers is small, and the flowering will end after mid-October. Just keep the pot soil slightly wet.
    How to make jasmine bloom more
    1. Environment and light: Jasmine likes hot, humid, ventilated and breathable environment, and needs sufficient light. Jasmine is afraid of cold. Potted jasmine in the south can be cultivated outdoors for wintering. In the north, it is necessary to keep warm in autumn and winter and move it indoors to face south. Strong light will make the branches strong, the leaves dark green, and the flowers are numerous and fragrant. Insufficient sunlight will make the nodes sparse and the flowers few and not fragrant.
    2. Water: Jasmine is not drought-resistant, but it is afraid of waterlogging. In rainy seasons, it is necessary to dump the water in the pot in time, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow easily. Water twice a day on hot and sunny days in summer, once in the morning and once in the evening. If the leaves are found to be curled, water should be sprayed on the leaves to promote growth.
    3. Soil: Fertile sandy and semi-sandy soil is preferred for jasmine cultivation. Planting in slightly acidic soil with a pH value of 6 to 6.5 will result in dense roots and vigorous growth. If the soil is heavy and lacks a substrate, the fertility is low and the ventilation is poor, the root system will be small, the plant will be short, the stems and leaves will be thin, and the flowers will be few and small.
    4. Fertilization: The high temperature season in midsummer is the peak growth period of jasmine. Apply more organic fertilizer and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, such as peanut cake powder, bone meal, superphosphate and multi-element flower fertilizer, twice a month. Jasmine often has lush branches and leaves but no flowers during the summer growth period. The main reason is that too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, which causes the branches and leaves to grow too long. In such a situation, control the fertilizer and water, increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and promote the formation of flower buds. At the same time, pay attention to moving the jasmine to a place with sufficient sunlight and good ventilation.
    5. Pruning: Jasmine grows very fast in summer, so it is necessary to prune it in time. When pruning potted jasmine, keep 10 cm to 15 cm at the base to promote the growth of most strong new shoots. If the new shoots grow very vigorously, they should be pinched when they grow 10 cm to promote the growth of secondary shoots, so that there are more flowers and the plant shape is compact. After the flowers wither, the flower branches should be cut off in time to reduce nutrient consumption, and it can also promote the growth of new shoots, making the branches dense, buds and flowers more.
    6. Prevention and control of diseases and pests: Jasmine is often harmed by borer larvae, scale insects and red spiders. The most serious damage is from July to September, and they often eat flower buds. You can use all-purpose powder or cypermethrin with 200 times water for spraying. Spray once every half a month, even if there are no diseases and pests, you should also spray, so as to prevent them first. The spraying time is preferably at 9 am and 4 pm on sunny days. It is not suitable to spray in the hot sun at noon to prevent pesticide damage.
    7. Maintenance during flowering period: Do not spray water on the flowers during flowering period to prevent premature flower drop and disappearance of fragrance. When it rains, potted jasmine should be moved to a sheltered place.

    Jasmine likes fertilizer, and the pot soil should maintain sufficient fertility. After spring budding and pulling, apply decomposed thin cake fertilizer water once every 10 days or so. During the bud and flowering period, thin fertilizer should be applied frequently, once every 5 days. Fertilization can be stopped after October. Loosen the soil in time after each fertilization and watering.
    Prune once in spring every year, cut off the old branches from the base, cut off the dense branches and remove the old leaves, and generally keep the branches 20 cm long. Aging plants should be re-pruned and renewed. The long branches sprouting from the root zone during the growth period should be cut off from the base in time to reduce nutrient consumption.
    Potted jasmine should be repotted once a year or every other year, and new culture soil and base fertilizer should be applied.
    Jasmine flowers only grow branches and leaves without blooming, usually because of excessive nitrogen fertilizer application or lack of sunlight. Therefore, when jasmine enters the vigorous growth period, the amount of nitrogen fertilizer should be strictly controlled, and more sunlight should be exposed to prevent the plant from growing too long. After the jasmine withers, the diseased and weak branches and the long branches should be cut off in time. About 4 layers of leaves should be retained on each branch, and the rest should be cut off to facilitate more side branches and more flowering. In winter, jasmine should be placed in a warm and sunny place to prevent the plant from being frozen. You can also cover the whole plant with a plastic bag. Cutting a small hole at the top can also play a role in heat preservation, moisture retention and antifreeze.
    Cultivation: Watering is the key. Water every morning and evening in midsummer. If the air is dry, spray water to increase the air humidity. Avoid watering in the middle of the year. Growth is slow in winter, so control watering. Jasmine is fertilizer-resistant, and fertilizer should be applied once a week during the growing season. The cultivation site should be sunny. After repotting in spring, pinch the tops and shape the plants. After the peak flowering period, it needs to be pruned and renewed, and heavy fertilizer should be applied once.
    Pests and diseases: Leaf blight, branch blight and white rot often occur, spray with 800 times diluted 65% mancozeb wettable powder. Pests include leaf moth, red spider and scale insects, which can be killed by spraying with 1000 times diluted 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate.

    Flower plant name: Nasturtium
    Classification: Nasturtium family
    Latin name: Tropaeolum majus
    Other names: Golden lotus, dry lotus, lotus leaf lotus, big red finch
    Family: Nasturtium family

Nasturtium is an annual or perennial climbing plant.
Origin and Habits: Native to Central and South America

It is a perennial vine herb. It likes a warm, humid, sunny environment. The optimum growth temperature is 18-24℃. It is not easy to bloom in high temperatures in summer. It is not resistant to moisture and waterlogging, and is not cold-resistant. It likes fertile, well-drained soil. It is afraid of severe cold and heat. It is placed in a sunny place in spring and autumn, in a well-ventilated semi-shaded place in summer, and brought indoors at about 5 degrees in winter. It can continue to bloom if the temperature is kept above 15 degrees
　　. Morphological characteristics: The stem is fleshy and hollow, light gray-green. Single leaves are alternate with long petioles, shield-shaped and round. The entire margin is wavy. The pedicel is slender and grows from the leaf axils. The single flower is terminal, and the flower diameter is about 5cm. The base of the calyx is united into a tube. The flower colors are milky white, yellow, orange, red, purple-red and complex colors.
　　Nasturtium likes moisture and is afraid of waterlogging. It likes acidic soil, and mountain mud is best. It has many flowers and a long flowering period, so it needs more fertilizer, but it has fleshy roots and is afraid of concentrated fertilizer and raw fertilizer. It can only be fertilized frequently with thin fertilizer. During the growth period, fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus should be applied once every 10-15 days. It
　　can be propagated and cultivated by cutting and sowing. Cuttings are taken from April to June, and roots are formed in 15-20 days under the condition of 12-15℃. Sowing is soaked in 40-45℃ warm water overnight, and then sowed in a shallow basin filled with plain sand, covered with fine sand about 1 cm thick, and placed in a sunny place to keep it moist after sowing. Seedlings will emerge in about 10 days, and the seedlings will be planted in pots when they have 2 true leaves. Cuttings are carried out in spring when the room temperature is 13-16℃. Cut the stems with 3-4 leaves, 10 cm long, leave the top leaves, insert them into the sand, keep them moist, and they will start to take root in 10 days. They can be potted in 20 days.
　　The stems of nasturtiums must be supported. When the seedlings grow to 3-4 true leaves, they should be pinched to promote the growth of more side branches. Before putting them on the shelves, in addition to leaving the main branches and thick side branches, they should also be pinched and evenly tied to the shelves to form various decorative forms. After the flowers bloom, cut off the old branches and wait for new branches to bloom. For aging plants, when the temperature reaches above 10℃, you can cut off the upper branches and leaves at the base, apply basal fertilizer, and place them in a greenhouse at about 7℃ to promote new branches and form new clusters.
　　Sandy loam rich in organic matter and a pH value of 5-6 are suitable for nasturtium cultivation. Generally, fertilizer is applied every 3-4 weeks during the growing season. After each fertilization, the soil should be loosened in time to improve ventilation and facilitate the development of the root system.　　
　　Nasturtium likes moisture and is afraid of waterlogging. The soil moisture should be maintained at about 50%. During the growth period, watering should be done with small amounts of water and frequent watering. Water once every 2-3 days in spring and autumn, water every day in summer, and spray water on the leaves in the evening to maintain a high humidity. Reduce watering after flowering to prevent the branches from growing vigorously. Nasturtium likes plenty of sunlight and is not shade-tolerant. It should be cultivated in a sunny place in spring and autumn, shaded appropriately in summer, and placed in a cool and ventilated place in midsummer. It should be brought indoors in mid-October in the north and maintained in a sunny place. The room temperature should be maintained at 10-15℃, and fertilizer and water should be properly controlled.

Name: Pansy
Scientific name: viola tricolor (English name: pansy)

Origin: Southern Europe, also known as cat face

Pansy is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Violaceae family. Pansy likes a cool climate and can be sown in autumn and used in spring flower beds. It can also be sown in summer and bloom in late autumn.
　　The suitable temperature for pansy germination is 18-21℃. It will germinate in 7-10 days under light-proof conditions. The suitable temperature for growth is 10-13℃. It will bloom 14-15 weeks after sowing. If the temperature is too high during sowing, it will seriously affect the germination of seeds and the growth of seedlings, resulting in a low seedling rate. There are usually two methods for cooling: one is to use a germination room or artificial cooling to create a suitable germination temperature and humidity. After the seedlings emerge, they are moved to a seedling shed with a temperature curtain for cooling and good sunshade and ventilation conditions to allow the seedlings to grow normally. The second is to use high mountains and carry out high-altitude seedling cultivation under natural low temperature conditions above 700 meters above sea level in the Yangtze River Basin.
　　After sowing, the seeds of pansy can be covered with vermiculite. The soil temperature should be 18-24℃, and the medium should be kept moist. No light is needed before the radicle grows out. Generally, the seedlings can emerge in 7-14 days. The soil temperature of pansy seedlings during the growth stage is 15-24℃. The lower the temperature, the slower the plant grows and the stronger the plant is. Let the soil dry thoroughly before watering, but avoid permanent wilting of the plant, which is conducive to the growth of pansy roots. The soil pH value should be maintained at 5.5-5.8, and some N fertilizer or potassium nitrate fertilizer should be applied alternately.
　　When the plant grows to 3-4 true leaves, appropriate hardening can be carried out to make the plant strong. At this time, the root system can also reach about 5 cm. At this time, the temperature should be lowered to prevent steep growth. The temperature should be controlled at 18℃, and the light can be appropriately increased. It is not advisable to use dwarfing agent during the seedling stage. When the root system has formed a root ball, the plug seedlings can be directly potted. Small pots with a diameter of 10 cm are often used. Choose a well-drained culture soil, which is especially important for growing in the cool and weak light autumn and winter, otherwise it is not easy to dry and seriously affect the growth. The soil pH value should be 5.8-6.2. If it is greater than 6.5, the roots will turn black and the base leaves will turn yellow.
　　Pansy needs plenty of sunlight to grow in autumn and winter, and can tolerate sparse shade in spring and summer. The suitable temperature for its growth is 7-15℃. If the temperature is too low for a long time, the leaves will turn purple. It is best to drop below 20℃ in early autumn to facilitate growth, while 15℃ or above is conducive to flowering. Below 15℃ will form a good plant shape, but it will extend the growth period. In summer, the flowers become smaller and grow thin and weak when the temperature is above 30℃. Watering should be done when the soil is dry. When the temperature is low and the light is weak, watering should be done carefully. Too much water affects growth and is prone to leggy branches. When the temperature is high, prevent it from drying up due to lack of water. When the plant is flowering, it is necessary to maintain sufficient water for the increase of flowers and the increase of flowers. On the other hand, during the growth period, fertilizer water should be used every 2-3 waterings, with a concentration of 100-150 ppm, mainly calcium-containing compound fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers are mainly used in the early stage, and phosphorus fertilizers can be added near the flowering period.
　　Common problems and solutions in pansy seedling cultivation:
1. Uneven emergence. Solution: When germinating, pansy seeds should be kept moist, and a layer of rough vermiculite can be covered on the seeds. The substrate should not be too wet, otherwise it will cause root hypoxia.
2. The terminal bud dies prematurely. Solution: Boron deficiency causes the terminal bud to die, the upper leaves stop growing, the leaves shrink and thicken, the stem nodes shorten, and a large number of side branches form. Under high temperature and high humidity conditions, it is easy to lack boron. Keeping the pH value below 6.0 can obtain sufficient boron.
3. The seedlings grow too long. Solution: When the ammonia ion concentration is greater than 5 ppm, the seedlings will grow too long. If the substrate is too wet for a long time, it will cause long seedlings. Lowering the night temperature to 18℃ can prevent the seedlings from growing too long.
4. Abnormal leaves. Solution: Yellowing of leaves at the base and death of branches and leaves mean that the plant is infected with soft rot, which is most likely to occur under high temperature conditions. Poor development and shrinkage of leaves indicate calcium deficiency. Calcium nitrate or calcium sulfate can be applied before transplanting. When the temperature exceeds 32°C, application of 5000ppm b-9 may cause leaf deformity and leatheriness. Boron deficiency can cause leaf bud death, upper leaves stop growing, leaves shrink and thicken, stem nodes shorten, and a large number of side branches form.

   Name: Petunia
    Scientific name: Petunia hybrida, Vilm.
    Other names: Petunia hybrida, Vilm .
   Family: Solanaceae Petunia
    Origin: South America

    Characters:
    Petunia is a perennial herb with a height of 15 to 45 cm. The whole plant has sticky hairs on the top and bottom. The stem is upright. The leaves are ovate, entire, almost sessile, alternate, and the young leaves are slightly opposite. The flowers are solitary in the axils and on the top of the leaves. The flowers are large and the corolla is funnel-shaped. The petals vary a lot, with single petals, semi-double petals, and corrugated edges. The colors are rich, including purple, bright red with white stripes, light blue with dark red veins, pink, pure white, pink with white stripes, and flesh color. The flowering period is from April to the end of October. If the indoor temperature reaches more than 15 degrees, it can bloom all year round.
Habits:
    The suitable temperature for the growth of petunia is 13 to 18 degrees Celsius, and it can withstand a low temperature of -2 degrees Celsius in winter. However, when the temperature is 35 degrees Celsius in summer, petunia can still grow normally and has a strong adaptability to temperature.
　　It likes dryness and fears wetness. During the growth process, it needs sufficient water, especially in the high temperature season in summer, it should be watered in the morning and evening to keep the pot soil moist. However, the rainy season has a lot of rain, which is very unfavorable for the growth of petunias. If the pot soil is too wet, the stems and leaves are easy to grow too long. If there is a lot of rain during the flowering period, the flowers will fade and rot easily. If there is a shower, the petals will be easily torn. If there is water accumulation in the pot for a long time, the roots will often rot, and the whole plant will wilt and die.
　　Petunias are long-day plants. The growth period requires sufficient sunlight. Most petunias take about 100 days from sowing to flowering under normal sunlight. If there is insufficient light or too many rainy days, flowering is often delayed by 10 to 15 days, and there are few flowers.
　　Petunias should use loose, fertile and well-drained slightly acidic sandy loam.
    Reproduction:
    Sowing can be used for reproduction. The seeds germinate in about 10-12 days under 20-22℃. The seeds are small, and the soil in the sowing pot should be fine and flat; there is no need to cover the soil or only cover it with thin soil after sowing. After sowing, immersion irrigation should be used to prevent water spraying from causing seed accumulation or splashing mud to cover too thickly, which is not conducive to germination. To keep the seeds moist, cover the pot with glass or plastic film. Remove the covering after germination. Transplant when there are 4-5 true leaves. The temperature during the seedling stage is suitable at 9-13℃.
    Due to the short spring in northern regions, autumn sowing is suitable. Flowers will bloom continuously from early spring to early summer. In winter and spring, it can also be propagated by cuttings. Take 6-8 cm long tender branches, cut off the lower leaves, and insert them into coarse sand or leeches with loose surface and good drainage. Rooting will take about two weeks at 20-23℃. If the lower part of the cuttings is soaked in 1/100,000 indolebutyric acid for one day, the effect will be better. Petunia has many and thin root branches and needs to be planted as soon as possible when it is a small seedling. When transplanting seedlings, be careful not to make the soil loose and broken. During cultivation, avoid too much fertilizer, otherwise the plant will grow too vigorously and there will be few flowers.
    Proper can control the plant shape and promote more flowering. In areas with warm and cool climates, it can bloom continuously all year round. It is mainly used as a spring and summer potted flower in the north.
    The key points of potted petunias at home are as follows:
　　1. The pot should be slightly larger and permeable, and the soil should be loose and slightly acidic. Petunias should be planted in earthenware pots with good permeability and an inner diameter of 20 to 30 cm, with two or three plants per pot. If you use purple sand pots, plastic pots, or porcelain pots with poor permeability, you can put a layer of broken charcoal blocks or broken hard plastic foam blocks at the bottom of the pot to enhance ventilation and drainage and prevent root rot. You can also use plastic hanging pots (1 plant per pot) and hang them on the balcony or window. It is best to use loose and fertile slightly acidic sandy loam for planting. You can use leaf mold, garden topsoil, sand or perlite in a ratio of 5:4:1 to prepare the culture soil, and the pH value is best between 5.8 and 6.2. If the pH value exceeds 6.6, it will inhibit the root's absorption of iron, leading to yellowing of leaves. Avoid using heavy clay and saline-alkali soil.
　　2. Seeding and cuttings are easy to propagate, and pinching and pruning will result in more branches. Petunia is generally propagated by sowing. Those sown in spring begin to flower in summer and autumn, and those sown in autumn begin to flower in winter and spring. Its seeds are very small. Mix them with fine soil first, and sow them thinly. Cover with glass or plastic film after sowing, place in semi-shade, and spray water frequently to keep moisture. Seedlings can emerge in a week at 18℃～24℃. After emergence, remove the glass, transplant once when the seedlings are 2 cm tall, and plant them in pots when they are about 8 cm tall, and pinch them to promote branching. Pinch them two or three times later to make the plants short, with many branches and flowers. The branches picked can be used as cuttings for propagation. The method is to first make a hole in the plain soil with chopsticks, insert it and compact it, place it in semi-shade, and spray water frequently to keep moisture. It can take root in 10 to 15 days in spring and autumn, and can be potted and planted in 10 to 15 days. The survival rate of cuttings is low in summer, and plastic film must be covered for heat preservation in winter. After the petunia blooms, select a few flowers of each variety for seeding, and cut off or shorten the rest of the flowers with pedicles to promote more branches and more flowering.
　　3. Water moderately to prevent drought and waterlogging, and use more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and less nitrogen. Petunias like moisture, and are afraid of drought and waterlogging. Water frequently in spring, summer and autumn. Water when the pot soil is dry. Keep it slightly moist, but never waterlogged. Too wet will easily rot the roots, and too dry will easily turn the leaves yellow. In winter, the pot soil is not dry and slightly moist. When watering in the north, it is advisable to add some ferrous sulfate (500:1) to the water to prevent long-term use of alkaline water, alkalization of the pot soil, yellowing of leaves and poor growth.
　　Petunias like fertilizer and are also resistant to barrenness. If too much fertilizer is applied too frequently, it is easy to grow too tall and have few flowers. When planting or repotting and changing soil, you can add some bone meal or nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer to the culture soil as base fertilizer. Apply a thin nitrogen fertilizer once every 10 days during the seedling stage, and no nitrogen fertilizer should be applied during the bud and flowering stages, otherwise it will easily grow and fall over. There are more leaves and fewer flowers, so it is advisable to apply
　　nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer once every 15 days or so, and spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution on the leaves once a month to promote more buds, more and more beautiful flowers, and no fertilizer is applied when entering the room in winter. 4. The flowers are lush with sufficient sunshine, and more light is seen when entering the room in winter. Petunias like light, warmth, and are not cold-resistant. The most suitable growth temperature is 15℃～25℃. Except for the high temperature in midsummer (above 34℃), proper shade is required at noon. In other seasons, more sunlight is required, and the more sunlight is needed, the more luxuriant the growth is, the more flowers there are, and it is advisable to place it in a sunny courtyard, roof garden, south-facing or west-facing balcony, and window sill. Move it indoors before and after the frost to place it in a south-facing or west-facing window sill to see more sunlight, keep the room temperature above 2℃ to safely overwinter, continue to grow above 10℃, and bloom above 15℃. The following spring, take the plants out of the house around Qingming Festival, repot and change the soil, then prune them again, and apply one or two thin nitrogen fertilizers to restore their growth and bloom again. After two winters, the old plants will gradually decline in growth, so they can be eliminated in autumn and replaced by seedlings bred in spring and autumn of the same year.

    Name: Lotus
    Scientific name: Nelumbo mucifera
    English name: Hindu Lotus
    Other names: Lotus, Lotus, Water Zhi, Lotus, Water Hua, Water Lotus, Water Dan, Water Lotus, Ze Zhi, Yuhuan, Grass Lotus, June Spring, Lotus, etc.
    Family name: Nymphaeaceae, Lotus. This genus contains two species, the other is American Yellow Lotus N.pentapetala, native to America

    Morphological characteristics:
　　perennial aquatic plant. The rhizome (lotus root) is fat and multi-noded, growing horizontally in the mud at the bottom of the water. The leaves are shield-shaped and round, dark green on the surface, covered with waxy white powder, gray-green on the back, and entire and wavy. The petiole is cylindrical and densely covered with barbs. The flowers are solitary at the top of the pedicel, high above the water surface, with single petals, double petals, double petals and double-petals; the flower colors vary from white, pink, dark red, lavender or inter-color; there are many stamens; the pistils are free and buried in the inverted cone-shaped spongy receptacle, and the surface of the receptacle has many scattered honeycomb-like holes, which gradually expand after fertilization and are called lotus pods. A small nut (lotus seed) is produced in each hole. The flowering period is from June to September, opening in the morning and closing in the evening every day. The fruit ripening period is from September to October. There are many varieties of lotus cultivation, which can be divided into three major systems according to different uses: lotus root, seed lotus and flower lotus.
    Environmental requirements for home cultivation of lotus:
    Cultivation container: Since many bowl lotus varieties are still too tall, only a few varieties can be planted in large bowls. Glazed pots, porcelain pots, and purple sand pots are ideal pots for lotus, but these pots generally have bottom holes, so they should be blocked with cement and yellow sand. The diameter of the flower pot should be 26 cm to 30 cm for bowl lotus, 30 to 45 cm for pot lotus, and larger for pot lotus. For beginners, it can be enlarged appropriately, so that it is easier to bloom. In short, the larger the pot, the better the flowering.
    Site: The lotus should be placed in a place where it can receive 7-8 hours of light every day, which can promote more buds and continuous flowering. If the light is less than 6 hours a day, it will bloom very little or even not. Lotus is a strong positive plant. When planting in a concentrated area, keep a certain distance between the pots and pots, and do not compete with each other for glory.
    Soil: The pH value of the soil for planting lotus should be controlled within 6-8, and the optimal pH value is 6.5-7. It is best to use river pond mud or paddy field soil as potting soil, or garden soil from vegetable fields. But avoid using industrial polluted soil.
Lotus is not tolerant to fertilizer, so base fertilizer should be less. Fertile river pond mud and garden soil do not need base fertilizer to avoid burning seedlings. This should be paid special attention to.
    Temperature: Lotus is a thermophilic plant. Generally, it starts to germinate at 8-10℃, and the lotus root whip begins to stretch
at 14℃. The temperature is required to be above 13℃ during planting. Otherwise, the seedlings will grow slowly or rot. At 18-21℃, the lotus begins to grow upright leaves, and it needs to be above 22℃ to bloom. Lotus is very resistant to high temperatures, and it is not a big deal if it is above 40℃.
    Bowl lotus cultivation technology:
　　Bowl lotus refers to a plant that can bloom normally in a flowerpot with a diameter of less than 26 cm. It must also meet the following three indicators: the average flower diameter does not exceed 12 cm, the average height of the leaves does not exceed 33 cm, and the average diameter of the leaves does not exceed 24 cm.
Bowl lotus is cultivated with lotus root bodies as seed lotus roots. In one growth cycle, it must go through the processes of germination, leafing, flowering, fruiting, lotus root growth and dormancy. The germination and emergence stage is from the germination of seed lotus roots to the beginning of summer and the period of grain harvest. After the spring equinox, when the temperature rises above 10 degrees Celsius, the lotus buds on the seed lotus roots begin to sprout. After Qingming, when the temperature reaches above 15 degrees Celsius, floating roots begin to grow and lotus root whips are produced; when the temperature reaches above 20 degrees Celsius, the main whips produce standing leaves, and have a strong root system, and the ability to absorb fertilizer is enhanced.
    From the growth of standing leaves to their appearance is the vigorous growth stage. In late June, the rainy season begins. There is more rain, high humidity and high temperature, which is most suitable for the growth of lotus roots. At this time, it enters the vigorous growth period. After that, a leaf will grow every 5-7 days, and one leaf will be higher than the other. The main whip and side whip will also grow quickly. At the same time, new side whips will continue to be born and bud and bloom. At this stage, it is necessary to prevent strong winds from invading and avoid leaf breakage and root damage.
    At present, many varieties of lotus are still too tall to plant, so only a few varieties can be planted in vegetable bowls and soup bowls sold in the market. At present, there are no flower pots specially for lotus planting on the market, and the common unglazed flower pots (i.e. clay pots and tile pots) are easy to seep water, so they are not suitable as lotus cultivation containers. Glazed pots, porcelain pots, and purple sand pots are not easy to seep water and can be used as lotus cultivation pots. However, these pots generally have bottom holes, which can be blocked with cement and sand, or blocked with rubber gaskets. The shape and color of the flower pot should be coordinated with the lotus to make it a whole. Square and round pots can be used. The diameter of the flowerpot is about 20 cm and the depth is about 15 cm. For those who are planting lotus for the first time, you can enlarge it appropriately so that it is easy to bloom. Receiving 7-8 hours of light every day can promote more flower buds and continuous flowering. Lotus should not be maintained in the shade, let alone cultivated indoors like indoor foliage plants. Insufficient light will cause the lotus leaves to grow longer and greener, and will not be able to bud. When cultivating lotus in the courtyard, the flowerpot must be placed on the outer edge of a balcony with sufficient light or facing south. During the flowering season, if you need to put it indoors for viewing, you can take it in early and out late, or in late and out early, and still maintain a certain amount of light every day. Lotus needs more sufficient light, but it is also forbidden to have a sunny day after rain.
    Lotus is an aquatic flower. It needs a lot of water during its growth process, but it is afraid of heavy water submerging its leaves, so the site should be convenient for water and drainage. Lotus is afraid of strong winds, so the site should be chosen in the leeward place as much as possible. Lotus
    requires pond mud or rice field mud rich in humus as cultivation soil, and industrial polluted soil should not be used. Yellow mud has high viscosity, so the amount should be appropriate. Too much viscosity will affect the elongation of lotus root whip and the expansion of lotus root; sandy soil is loose and not sticky enough, so it is easy to be damaged by wind and hinder the growth of root system. Generally, yellow mud and sandy soil are mixed in a ratio of 7:3. If there is no sandy soil, yellow sand can be added, but the proportion should be slightly smaller. In the suburbs of cities, you can directly use the garden soil of vegetable fields; in cities, you can also use the soil of spring potted flowers and half of the yellow mud as cultivation soil.
    Use about 20 grams of decomposed dry chicken manure or other fertilizers for each pot, mix it with the potting soil thoroughly as base fertilizer, pick out impurities and gravel, remove small insects and earthworms in the soil, and then put it in the pot. The soil layer generally occupies about 3/5 of the total pot volume.
    Zhao Jiarong's experiment at the Wuhan Institute of Botany, Chinese Academy of Sciences, showed that planting lotus with a formula of 100 parts of dry pond mud, 2 parts of bean cake water, 6 parts of plant ash water, 2 parts of pig and cattle hoof water, 2 parts of rotten hair water, and 1 part of bone meal can achieve good results.
    Lotus is a thermophilic plant with strict temperature requirements. It usually starts to germinate at 8-10 degrees Celsius and the lotus root whip begins to elongate at 14 degrees Celsius. When sowing in the early stage, the temperature is also required to be above 15 degrees Celsius, otherwise the seedlings will grow slowly and cause rotten seedlings. In the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, open-field sowing and seedling raising are generally not used before mid-April, mainly because the temperature does not meet the needs of seed germination and seedling growth. As the temperature rises, continued scorching sun and high temperature (above 40 degrees Celsius) are not conducive to the growth and development of lotus. 22-35 degrees Celsius is the most suitable temperature for the growth and development of lotus. At 18-21 degrees Celsius, leaves begin to grow, and flowering needs to be above 22 degrees Celsius. At 25 degrees Celsius, new lotus roots grow, and a climate with relatively constant daytime temperature and slightly lower nighttime temperature is required. Most cultivated species enter the lotus root growth stage when the temperature drops around the beginning of autumn, which is manifested by a significant increase in the pot soil.

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