Furniture Care Tips


　　* If the tabletop is dusty, first remove the dust with a soft brush, then wipe it with a clean, damp cloth. Avoid using hard or rough cloths or unclean towels to prevent damage to the surface.
　　* As the furniture surfaces are made of natural wood, slight color variations between different batches are normal. *
　　Avoid using oil-based furniture cleaners, as they may cause whitening due to chemical reactions, leading to expensive repairs.
　　* If the surface is stained with oil, use a general cleaner.
　　* To maintain the freshness of the furniture, do not place hot food or rough tableware on the tabletop.
　　Fabric Care
　　* Vacuum at least once a week, paying particular attention to removing dust accumulated between the fabric fibers.
　　* If cushions are reversible, rotate them weekly to distribute wear evenly. 
　　* For stains, wipe with a clean, damp cloth, starting from the outside of the stain to avoid leaving marks. Velvet furniture should not be exposed to water; use a dry cleaning agent.
　　* All fabric covers and linings should be dry cleaned only; do not wash with water or bleach.
　　* Avoid sitting on furniture with sweat, water stains, or mud on your body to ensure the furniture's lifespan.
　　* If you find loose threads, do not pull them off by hand; trim them neatly with scissors.
　　Leather Care 
　　* Leather is highly absorbent, so take care to prevent stains, especially with high-grade suede.
　　* Wipe gently with a clean, damp towel several times a week. 
　　* If there are stains on the leather, wipe them with a clean, damp sponge dipped in a mild detergent, then let it air dry. Test on an inconspicuous corner before using it on the leather.
　　* If you spill a beverage on the leather, immediately absorb it with a clean cloth or sponge, then wipe with a damp cloth and let it air dry. Do not use a hairdryer to dry it.
　　* If it gets greasy, wipe it clean with a dry cloth; allow any remaining grease to dissipate naturally, or clean with a detergent. Do not wash with water.
　　* If any holes, damage, or burns are found, do not attempt to repair them yourself; please contact a professional service provider.
　　Do not expose furniture to direct sunlight, as this will cause the leather to dry, crack, and fade. Solid Wood Furniture
　　Maintenance
　　: Solid wood furniture is loved by many consumers for its natural wood texture, but few know how to maintain it. While choosing furniture is important, proper maintenance is equally essential. The quality of furniture maintenance directly affects its lifespan. So how should solid wood furniture be maintained? In general, the following points should be noted:
　　1. Pay attention to the cleaning and maintenance of the furniture surface. Solid wood furniture is coated with paint, making the maintenance of the paint film particularly important. Once the paint film is damaged, it not only affects the surface appearance but also further affects the internal structure of the product. Therefore, furniture should be kept clean regularly. Every day, gently wipe away surface dust with a soft, dry cotton cloth. Every so often, use a damp cotton cloth (wrung out) to carefully wipe away accumulated dust from the corners and crevices of the furniture, then wipe it dry with a clean, soft cotton cloth. Alternatively, after drying, apply a thin layer of high-quality furniture wax and gently buff it to a shine, like polishing leather. This not only maintains the wooden furniture but also increases its luster. However, be careful when choosing furniture wax; never use inferior products containing corrosive chemicals.
　　2. Avoid using alcohol, gasoline, or other chemical solvents to remove stains. If there are stains on the furniture surface, never rub them vigorously. You can gently remove the stains with warm tea water. After the moisture evaporates, apply a small amount of furniture wax to the affected area and then lightly buff it several times to form a protective film.
　　3. Avoid scratching with hard objects. 4. Avoid cleaning tools touching furniture. Take care to prevent hard metal objects or other sharp tools from hitting the furniture to avoid scratches.
　　5. Avoid damp environments. In summer, if the room is damp, use thin rubber mats to separate the furniture from the floor, and maintain a 0.5-1 cm gap between the furniture and the wall.
　　6. Keep away from heat sources. In winter, place furniture about 1 meter away from heating sources to avoid prolonged exposure to high temperatures, which can cause localized cracking, warping, and paint deterioration of the wood.
　　7. Avoid direct sunlight. Avoid prolonged exposure of furniture to direct sunlight, either entirely or partially. Place it in a location that avoids direct sunlight, or use sheer curtains to filter the sunlight. This will not affect indoor lighting but will allow soft light to add a warm and romantic ambiance to the room while protecting the furniture.

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title:
Green Home Decoration Knowledge
: What is "Green Decoration"? 　 
I. Green and Environmentally Friendly Design: 
Recommending "green design" for homes can alleviate stress and adjust people's mental state, which is a very beneficial measure.
Interior "Green Design" Techniques: 
1. Outdoor-like Interior Design: Designers create interiors that resemble the outdoors, bringing nature indoors. 
2. Creating a sense of openness between interior and exterior spaces through architectural design or renovation, or by opening up parts of walls to integrate the interior and exterior, creating open and flowing spaces that allow residents to enjoy more sunlight, fresh air, and views.
3. Pursuing a pastoral style in urban residences and even the interior spaces of restaurants and commercial services, creating a comfortable rural atmosphere through design.
4. Utilizing natural art forms in interior design, i.e., living art forms: indoor potted plants, bonsai, water features, flower arrangements, etc. 
5. Creating green landscapes indoors using painting techniques.　 
6. Interior landscaping techniques. 
7. Emphasizing the application of natural colors and materials in interior design, allowing users to perceive natural materials and return to the primitive and natural.
8. Employ sound and scent effects that mimic nature in the creation of indoor environments. 
9. Environment falls under the category of ecology. Cave dwellings like "loess cave dwellings" and nest-like structures will once again become research and design directions in architecture and interior design.
10. The average ceiling height in a typical home is 2.5-3 meters. To prevent residents from feeling cramped, a perforated ceiling frame with tiers around 30cm can be used, positioned about 15cm from the ceiling. Concealed blue LED strips or tubes can be installed within the frame, illuminating the ceiling with a sky-blue glow, creating a sense of spaciousness and freshness, as if in a dreamlike state.
11. Another aspect of environmentally friendly design is color matching and combination. Appropriate color selection and matching can achieve both health and decorative effects.
II. Using Green Building Materials:
Interior decoration materials pose at least six health risks.
First, it causes "new home syndrome," with residents experiencing a range of symptoms including eye, nose, and throat irritation, fatigue, headaches, skin irritation, and difficulty breathing.
Second, it produces typical neurobehavioral dysfunction, including memory impairment.
Third, it stimulates the trigeminal nerve receptors.
Fourth, it causes inflammatory reactions in the respiratory tract.
Fifth, it reduces the body's disease resistance (immune function).
Sixth, it exhibits significant mutagenicity, suggesting the potential to induce tumors in the human body.
Generally speaking, most inorganic materials in decorative materials are safe and harmless, such as keel and accessories, ordinary profiles, floor tiles, and glass—traditional decorative materials. However, some chemically synthesized organic materials pose certain health risks. These are mostly polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, such as benzene, phenol, anthracene, aldehydes, and their derivatives, which have strong, pungent odors and can lead to various physiological and psychological disorders.
1. Wall Decoration Material Selection: Avoid using wood panels extensively for wall decoration. Instead, smooth the existing wall surface and apply water-based paint. Alternatively, choose new-generation, pollution-free PVC environmentally friendly wallpaper, or even natural fabrics such as cotton, linen, or silk as the base material for natural wallpaper.
2. Floor Material Selection: A wide range of floor materials are available, including tiles, natural stone, wood flooring, and carpets. Tiles are generally pollution-free, but if using natural stone extensively, choose boards that have been tested and found to be free of radioactive elements. Before choosing composite flooring or synthetic carpets, carefully review the product instructions. If using solid wood flooring, choose flooring adhesives with low organic matter emission rates.
3. Ceiling Material Selection: Since ceiling heights are generally low, a suspended ceiling is not necessary. Smooth the existing ceiling surface and apply water-based paint or environmentally friendly wallpaper. If a partial or full suspended ceiling is desired, consider using lightweight steel keel gypsum board, calcium silicate board, or fiberglass board instead of wood keel plywood.
4. Selection of Soft Furnishing Materials: For soft furnishing materials such as curtains, bedspreads, pillowcases, and sofa fabrics, it is best to choose fabrics with a high cotton and linen content. Pay attention to ensuring the dyes are odorless, stable, and resistant to fading.
5. Selection of Wood Finishing Materials: The most commonly used finishing materials for wood products are various types of paint, a well-known source of indoor pollution. However, some domestic companies have developed environmentally friendly paints, such as Yajue, Ai's brand decorative paint, and Ge brand metallic paint. These do not use benzene-containing thinners, have less irritating odor, and evaporate quickly, making them popular with users.
Consumers are reminded to pay attention to the following points:
1. Do not easily believe non-professional advertising. For advertisements from manufacturers or merchants, learn more about relevant information and details, consult relevant books, compare prices from multiple vendors, and conduct rational analysis and comparison.
2. Do not blindly believe in brand names. High brand recognition does not necessarily mean superior quality, nor does it guarantee the absence of harmful ingredients.
3. Choose decorative materials from reputable companies, especially those that have passed ISO9000 series quality system certification or China Fangyuan Mark product quality certification. 
4. Understand how others use certain decorative materials.
5. Strictly measure the radioactivity levels of granite and marble to ensure they do not exceed standards.
6. Use health-promoting and antibacterial building materials: use sterilized glass and antibacterial ceramic tiles for walls. 
7. High-quality green and environmentally friendly coatings.
8. Use natural resin paint (lacquer), water-based wood varnish, and enamel paint to coat the surfaces of building doors and windows. 
9. Check if the wood meets environmental standards, whether the plywood has a pungent odor, and use professional equipment to determine if isocyanate compounds, chlorine, preservatives, insecticides, and free formaldehyde exceed standards. 
III. Green and Environmentally Friendly Construction:
While using green and environmentally friendly building materials, it is essential to maintain good indoor air circulation during construction to promptly dissipate harmful gases. Construction waste must be properly sorted and disposed of to ensure that the construction process does not negatively impact the health of construction workers or the environment.
IV. Use Green and Environmentally Friendly Furniture:
Where does formaldehyde in home decoration come from?
Living in an environment with excessive formaldehyde levels can lead to formaldehyde poisoning symptoms, generally including dizziness, a pungent odor, tearing, and palpitations. Prolonged exposure to formaldehyde can increase the risk of cancer.
In home decoration materials, such as composite flooring, and the back panels and front panels of some furniture and cabinets, MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is often used. Because MDF uses urea-formaldehyde resin, its formaldehyde content is relatively high. Currently, the country has set strict standards for the formaldehyde content in MDF, so you should pay attention to the brand, origin, and test reports of the materials when purchasing. Newly renovated rooms must be fully ventilated before moving in.
Other engineered wood products, such as plywood, three-ply, and five-ply boards, use vinyl acetate as the main adhesive, so their formaldehyde content is relatively low.
Formaldehyde emission is an indicator of how much formaldehyde gas a product releases. Currently, the adhesives used in decorative boards are still mainly urea-formaldehyde resin, and unreacted formaldehyde remaining in the boards will gradually be released into the surrounding environment. Formaldehyde, ammonia, and radioactive pollution are three important sources of pollution in home decoration, especially ammonia and radioactivity, which are often undetectable without instruments. Therefore, you can have your living environment tested by an expert to determine if these pollutants are present.
Green decoration precautions:
Wall paint: Pay attention to "internal" pollution. 
When choosing paint, besides color and gloss, the most important thing is to choose environmentally friendly paint. Generally speaking, joint venture and imported brands have more guaranteed quality and environmental protection, such as Nippon Paint, Dulux, Leyard, Yadu, Shenniuli, China Paint (Giraffe), and Mowell. High-quality domestic paints like Red Lion and Lighthouse also perform well.
When purchasing paint, be sure to go to authorized brand stores. Genuine brand agents will have a series of certification documents. Also,
pay attention to the use of auxiliary materials during construction, especially adhesives and primers. Even if you choose environmentally friendly paint, you cannot be careless in the base treatment. Using a well-known brand primer not only ensures the overall effect but is also absolutely necessary from an environmental perspective.
In addition, pay attention to the use of adhesives. 107 glue contains harmful substances, and relevant national regulations have explicitly prohibited its use in home decoration. You must pay special attention to these easily overlooked auxiliary materials.
Beware of "Free" Killers in Flooring: 
Truly safe wood flooring should meet three standards: beneficial and harmless to the human body, causing no quality problems during use, and not causing damage to buildings or the environment during installation.
Currently, there are many types of wood flooring. Solid wood flooring itself does not contain harmful substances, while inferior composite flooring may contain them.
Harmful substances include two aspects: First, flooring with adhesives may have excessively high levels of free formaldehyde release. If free formaldehyde exceeds 40mg/100g, it is harmful to the human body and is not allowed to be sold on the market. You should choose green and environmentally friendly flooring with a formaldehyde content of around 10mg/100g, such as brands like Oudian Ship Deck, Baigao, and Shengxiang. Additionally, brands like Baili and Taibu flooring have been among the first to pass international green environmental certification, so you can use them with confidence. Second, various organic solvents used in the painting process, such as toluene and nitrocellulose, will emit gases harmful to the human body. It is recommended that you buy flooring with a finished, painted surface, rather than unfinished boards.
Therefore, when you buy flooring, it is best to refer to the standard specifications of wood flooring and choose flooring that meets national safety standards according to your needs and preferences.
　　In short, safe material selection is the key to environmentally friendly home decoration. You must pay special attention to protecting your family’s health in a comprehensive environment, starting from the selection of materials.
Bedroom decoration and decoration tips
The bedroom is the most important place we live in and the most important function of the home. Tranquility and comfort are the main themes of most bedrooms. Since it is a private space, it is a place to express modification and deserves to be decorated and beautified. Based on the special nature of the bedroom, there are some special requirements for its decoration. 
　　(I) Privacy

　　The privacy characteristics of the bedroom are reflected in two parts:
　　1. Invisible privacy
　　This requires it to have relatively strict protection measures, including the tightness of the door and the tightness of the curtains.
　　(1) The material used for the door should be as thick as possible. It is not advisable to directly use 3mm or 5mm boards for sealing. If 5mm boards are used, it is advisable to attach another 3mm panel on the board.
　　(2) The bottom of the door should be 0.3-0.5cm off the ground.
　　(3) Curtains should be made of thick fabric; if they are thin curtains, a layer of gauze should be added. This is beneficial for enhancing the privacy of the bedroom and reducing light interference during sleep.
　　2. Privacy is not an issue.
　　This requires the bedroom to have a certain level of sound insulation. Generally speaking, the partition walls are sufficient now, but some homeowners, based on space considerations, like to remove the partition wall between two rooms and then build a double-sided or single-sided wardrobe. This requires attention to the partition.
　　(II) Color
　　matching. The color matching of the bedroom decoration varies depending on the occupant.
　　1) Master bedroom. The master bedroom should be warm and cozy, and the floor should be made of wood flooring. It is not excluded that a specific style of color matching can be adopted when the couple has the same aesthetic views.
　　2) Secondary bedroom. It should also be warm and cozy. Secondary bedrooms are generally for the elderly, so the decoration should take into account the elderly's mobility and preferences.
　　3) Children's room. Some more lively colors are suitable. The more commonly used color matching is blue for boys' rooms and pink or yellow for girls' rooms. Wallpapers with cartoon animals, flowers, or plants can also be used. More toy shelves can be placed in children's rooms. Wooden floors are recommended for children's rooms, as they allow children to crawl and play without getting cold. If wooden floors are not feasible, children's playmats can be used; these mats are often colorful and come with educational patterns or letters.
　　4) Nanny's Room. Generally, minimal decoration is needed; simply ensuring the walls, floor, and ceiling are properly treated is sufficient.
　　(III) Lighting
　　Bedroom lighting requirements are minimal, but it's important to note that downward-facing lights are not recommended; ceiling lights are preferable. However, using incandescent bulbs for ceiling lights can cause the ceiling above the bulb to yellow (due to heat).
　　This limitation can be avoided if the light fixture is on the wall. Currently, fewer and fewer homes use wall lamps, primarily because of their narrow lighting range and limited variety of styles.
　　(IV) Environmental Protection
　　Environmental protection is a crucial consideration for bedrooms compared to other spaces. Bedrooms are relatively enclosed and often contain a lot of furniture. We have already discussed the environmental friendliness of materials in other chapters. Materials are important, and so is ventilation. After the new bedroom is renovated, it should be well-ventilated. At the same time, newly purchased furniture should also have its cabinet doors and drawers opened to allow air to dissipate.
　　(V) Space
　　Bedrooms are usually small and have a lot of things to put in them, so the problem of space crowding often occurs. To solve this problem, there are a few key points:
　　(1) Any cabinets that reach the ceiling should be placed on the same wall as the door or in a place that cannot be seen when standing at the door looking in.
　　(2) Any cabinets that can be seen at the door should not exceed 2.2m in height. (3
　　) Leave as much blank space as possible in the layout of the space, that is, leave enough empty walls between the furniture. (4)
　　The decorative items should be as small as possible. For example, decorative paintings can be small.
　　(VI) Bed Placement
　　The bed is the most important and basic piece of furniture in the bedroom (of course, if you are using Japanese tatami, that is another matter). The principles of bed placement are explained in Chapter 2, "XI. DIY Design", "Bedroom Design".

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title:
How to Arrange Green Plants Indoors: 
With social progress and the continuous improvement of people's living standards, urban and rural residents have increasingly higher requirements for indoor decoration. If space is cleverly utilized, carefully placing a few potted green plants indoors can not only purify the indoor air but also give people an elegant and refined sense of comfort. 

  For living rooms and studies, simple, beautiful, elegant, and graceful foliage plants are recommended. Examples include money trees, rubber trees, monstera, cast iron plants, spider plants, bottle palms, and clivia. These plants give a sense of nobility and can absorb dust from the air, increase humidity, absorb carbon dioxide, release oxygen, and kill harmful bacteria in the air. 

  For bedrooms, place elegant and calming foliage plants, keeping it few and exquisite. One or two pots on the windowsill or in a corner are sufficient, such as asparagus ferns, lucky bamboo, and spider plants. A bouquet of fresh flowers in a vase next to the dressing table can energize you for the new day. 

  When arranging flowers indoors, it is important to distinguish between primary and secondary plants and avoid placing too many. Place sun-loving plants near south-facing windows, shade-tolerant plants in shady spots, and tall plants in corners where they don't obstruct the view. For air-conditioned rooms, ensure frequent ventilation to prevent pests and diseases. This will ensure the plants' growth and enhance their aesthetic appeal. Additionally, consider the colors of the walls and furniture. Darker colors call for lighter-colored plants to balance the room's light and shadow; lighter colors are best suited for green foliage plants. Especially in offices and studies, green plants can improve work efficiency and provide good eye health.

For bathroom ceilings, use FC cement pressure board instead of gypsum board and opt for moisture-resistant latex paint. Bathroom
design is undergoing a revolution.
Traditional bathroom ceilings, such as aluminum panels, are being phased out. Bathroom ceilings can also be more elaborate. Moisture-resistant gypsum board isn't ideal for ceilings, so I generally use FC cement pressure board.
For walls, you can boldly use moisture-proof putty with a rough texture and moisture-proof latex paint.
Wainscoting can be made of cedar wood planks coated with tung oil.
If the homeowner doesn't accept something too avant-garde, you can use mosaic tiles or 10*10 tile grout lines, using cross-shaped positioning devices.
In humid environments with a relative humidity greater than 70%, such as bathrooms and kitchens, waterproof gypsum board should be used. After the waterproof gypsum board is installed, apply two coats of transparent waterproof paint (reference books say to use chlorine-based emulsion or emulsified varnish), then apply putty and waterproof latex paint.
For high-end hotels, lightweight steel keel waterproof gypsum board ceilings with latex paint finish are still the preferred choice for bathroom ceilings. I have a more mature method: spraying an oil-based, waterproof coating. The cost isn't high, and it's very mature in Guangdong and Shanghai now. Treated gypsum board won't sink in water! Only one apartment bathroom I did two years ago used aluminum panels.
However, it might be due to different design styles; our company only does American-style renovations.
     Gypsum board has many pores. Treating it with oil-based paint adds only a tiny amount of weight. Think about how thick the paint layer is—only about 30 micrometers thick—it's practically weightless. Besides, the paint film has water-repellent properties.
So it won't sink! 
Never use latex paint for moisture protection. Latex paint forms a very loose film; it not only lacks waterproofing but is also water-soluble, so how can it be waterproof? Oil-based paint is insoluble in water. Use waterproof gypsum board, leveling putty powder with varnish, and then apply Nippon exterior latex paint. I'm currently working on a decoration project for a ski resort club. Their Beijing design firm used waterproof gypsum board in the bathrooms, specifically from Tianjin Knauf. Then they added waterproof latex paint. Unfortunately, the latex paint was from Nippon. After all, you have to consider that not all clients are patriotic. Haha, I admire you!!

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title:
The main quality problems in the home decoration industry are "destructive renovations," which can be roughly categorized into seven types: 
1. Arbitrarily drilling holes in load-bearing walls or removing walls connecting balcony doors and windows during interior decoration;
2. Enlarging existing doors and windows or building new ones;
3. Arbitrarily increasing the static load on floors;
4. Building walls or installing overloaded ceilings, large light fixtures, and ceiling fans;
5. Arbitrarily chiseling ceiling slabs, drilling holes, cutting reinforcing steel bars, and directly burying or rewiring electrical wires without conduits;
6. Damaging or altering the waterproofing layer of kitchen and bathroom floors, as well as residential supporting facilities such as water, heating, electricity, and gas;
7. Using large amounts of flammable decorative materials,

posing serious fire hazards. Let's start with some content; I hope someone will participate in the discussion.
One common misconception: Arbitrarily altering walls and changing the original design function.
Residential room design involves different floor plans and spatial combinations based on the nature and function of different rooms. Some residents arbitrarily alter walls during renovations, dividing spaces and fragmenting what should be a functional living space. This not only changes the intended use of the space but also potentially alters the load-bearing capacity, creating safety hazards and endangering the normal use of the building. Residents are reminded to be extremely cautious when altering walls during renovations to avoid accidents.
Misconception Two: Creating holes in walls and floors, damaging the original structure.
To change the nature of their homes, some residents arbitrarily create holes in walls, some even removing walls altogether, making the ring beams load-bearing components and severely compromising the overall rigidity of the building. This can lead to cracking and deformation, or even structural collapse. Arbitrarily drilling holes in the floor slab during ceiling and bathroom renovations not only damages the precast hollow slabs but also easily causes steel reinforcement to rust, shortening the structure's lifespan. It reduces the building's earthquake resistance and damages the original structure; the consequences in the event of an earthquake would be unimaginable.
Misconception Three: Floor and ceiling renovations increase the floor load and reduce the floor slab's bearing capacity.
When decorating floors and ceilings, lightweight materials should be used as much as possible, and care should be taken not to make them too thick or too complex, otherwise it is very easy to cause the floor slab to collapse, endangering the personal safety of residents.
Misconception 4: Improper use of interior decoration materials affects human health.
New artificial synthetic decorative materials, such as various paints and adhesives, can release harmful substances such as methanol, toluene, and formaldehyde after use, which can easily cause pharyngitis, conjunctivitis, headaches, palpitations, insomnia, etc., directly affecting human health. Therefore, when choosing decoration materials, we should first consider physical and mental health and give priority to the use of green building materials.
Misconception 5: Blindly choosing flammable decoration materials leaves fire hazards.
In decoration, a large number of flammable and non-fireproof decorative materials are used, such as: wood flooring, wood wainscoting, wood ceilings, plastic products, wallpaper, wall coverings, carpets, etc. When these materials are caught in a fire, they will help the fire spread and expand, causing loss of life and property damage. Therefore, in our renovations, we should choose aesthetically pleasing and safe non-combustible or flame-retardant decorative materials such as aluminum composite panels, aluminum alloy keel, gypsum products, natural stone, and floor tiles.
Misconception Six: Unreasonable water and electricity modifications leave hidden dangers.
Unreasonable modifications to the kitchen and bathroom can damage the original waterproof layer, allowing water to seep into the walls and floors, affecting the lifespan of the house. Some residents also haphazardly pipe wiring during renovations, sealing electrical switches, wires, and gas equipment, leaving many undetected fire hazards.
Misconception Seven: Overly enclosed renovations destroy ventilation.
Residents, during renovations, do not consider natural ventilation, arbitrarily removing or sealing windows on room doors, enclosing balconies, or converting balconies into kitchens, causing polluted air to stagnate indoors, lacking air circulation, and posing serious health risks.
Misconception Eight: Lack of overall planning in renovations, blind imitation, and lack of individuality.
When decorating our own homes, we must consider our social status, cultural background, professional characteristics, personality, and hobbies to ensure that the home decoration reflects our individuality. Some residents lack overall planning when decorating, simply imitating how others decorate. Some even copy the decorating styles of hotels or other commercial establishments, resulting in a "hotel-like" or "commercial" home that lacks the warmth and comfort of a home.
Misconception Nine: Ignoring one's own living conditions leads to outdated decor that affects usability.
Currently, the ceiling height of most apartments is only 2.5-2.8 meters, and the area is not very large. Therefore, decorative moldings on the walls, large suspended ceilings or light fixtures, wainscoting, and various door frames—decorative features typically used in larger rooms—can be omitted. Otherwise, it easily creates a cluttered and disorganized feeling.
Myth 10: Ignoring one's financial situation and pursuing a "one-step" home renovation.
Many residents who have purchased new homes are already strapped for cash, some even heavily in debt, yet they blindly pursue a high-end, luxurious renovation to satisfy their vanity. I believe a "one-step" approach is unnecessary. I suggest residents renovate in phases, step by step. This can alleviate financial difficulties and allow for more consideration of their renovation plans as home renovation concepts and methods evolve, resulting in a more fashionable and ideal finish.

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title:
The following points should be paid special attention to during home electrical wiring construction: 1. Construction personnel should possess valid work permits issued by the local labor department. 2. The materials used should be national standard products or have safety certification marks (Great Wall mark in Beijing) to ensure safe service life. 3. Construction should strictly adhere to specifications and process standards. 
When relocating or modifying various wiring, first determine the location of the terminal socket and mark its accurate position and dimensions on the wall. Then, run wires to the nearest similar socket. The method is as follows: If the socket is in the upper part of the wall, cut a vertical groove upwards to the top of the wall where the decorative corner trim will be installed; if it is in the lower part of the wall, cut a vertical groove downwards to the bottom of the baseboard. The groove should be approximately 15 mm deep. Insert the electrical wire into the conduit and lay it in the wall groove, then smooth it with cement mortar to fix it in place. If the original socket is retained, reinstall it in its original position; if not, fill the groove with bricks and smooth it with cement mortar. When installing baseboards, the wires along the ground should lie on the inner bottom of the baseboard. When installing decorative moldings, the wires along the top corners should be concealed inside the decorative moldings.
2. Construction Specifications for Circuit Renovation Projects: The groove depth should be consistent, and the groove line should be straight. Control lines should be marked on the wall first, and then the wall should be cut with a marble cutter, followed by manual grooving. Wiring must be protected with conduit. Conduit connections should be tight and smooth. At right-angle corners, the inner side of the corner should be cut, and a rounded interface should be cut on one side before bending and installation. After the wires are inserted into the conduit, wire fixing clips should be used to fix them inside and on the wall surface before plastering or concealing them with baseboards or decorative moldings. For socket box installation, holes should be made in the wall first. After the wires are inserted into the box, the box should be fixed in the hole, the wires fixed to the panel, and the panel fixed to the box. The method for installing power switches is the same as for socket boxes.
3. Copper wires should be used for electrical wiring, and the wiring should be configured according to the power capacity. The wires should not be too thin. It is recommended to use 4 square millimeter wires for air conditioners; 2.5 square millimeter wires for sockets; and 1.5 square millimeter wires for general lighting fixtures. When laying wires, except when passing through hollow floor slabs, they must be run in conduits; wires of different voltages, such as lighting wires and telephone/television wires, should not be run in the same conduit; power socket panels should have the neutral wire on the left, the live wire on the right, and the ground wire on top, and these should not be connected incorrectly; the neutral, live, and ground wires should be of different colors.
4. Concealed wiring should be used. For electrical wiring, PVC conduits must be used for concealed installations, and PVC cable trays must be used for exposed wiring. During construction, avoid chiseling to prevent cracks in the wall surface and damage to the wall structure. The number of wires in a conduit should vary depending on the number of wires running through it; no more than four wires should be run in the same conduit, and wires should not completely fill the space inside the conduit. Air conditioning, lighting, and sockets should be controlled by separate circuits, generally at least four circuits. Lighting should run on one circuit, air conditioning on another, and sockets on three to four circuits. The advantage of this approach is that if a short circuit or other problem occurs in one line, the power outage area will be small, and it will not affect the normal operation of other lines.
Power lines should be at least 50 cm away from telephone and television lines, and conduits should be fixed to the structure. Junction boxes should be installed at all switches, sockets, and light fixtures. Furthermore, if the conduit is too long or has too many bends, a junction box should be installed at regular intervals. Wire joints are strictly prohibited inside the conduit. Bends in the conduit should be made using appropriate bending tools or elbows, and there should be no creases. Distribution control switches should be configured reasonably according to specifications. Undersized switches will cause inconvenience, while oversized switches will compromise electrical safety. Another crucial point is that conduits should be installed first during construction, and then wires should be run through them. This prevents the inability to pull wires during future wire replacements. In addition, please remember to ask the construction company for a set of electrical wiring as-built drawings when your home renovation project is completed, so that you can carry out maintenance in the future. (Author: Wan Tonghai; 
Abstract: The color scheme of the living room must take into account the orientation of the living room and the furniture configuration. The orientation of the living room is mainly determined by the direction the living room windows face. 

Keywords: Interior decoration, living room)

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title:
Color Matching is Key: 
The color scheme for a living room must consider its orientation and furniture arrangement. The orientation is primarily determined by the direction the windows face.
  Living room colors not only affect visual appeal but also mood. For example, a south-facing living room should use white as the main color, while a west-facing living room should use green. This is because the south corresponds to the element of fire in the Five Elements theory, and fire controls metal, which represents wealth. To ensure the wealth energy of a south-facing living room, white is the preferred choice for paint, wallpaper, and sofas, as white is the representative color of metal and is associated with attracting wealth. The west corresponds to the element of metal, and metal controls wood, meaning wood represents wealth. Green is the representative color of wood, and west-facing living rooms receive strong afternoon sunlight, which is not only hot but also glaring. Therefore, a lighter, more eye-friendly green is more suitable.
Second point: Furniture Selection  Matters.
  Furniture is like an actor, while decoration is like a set. The arrangement of living room furniture is mainly determined by factors such as the color scheme of the decor, the layout of the living room, and the size of the space.
  From the perspective of residential space, furniture arrangement mainly refers to the unity of the orientation of the living room, bedroom, children's room, dining room, and study with the color matching, style, product specifications, and decorations of the furniture.
  The main furniture arrangement in the living room includes: sofa, coffee table, cabinet, and living room decorations. Different orientations of the living room require different color matching of living room furniture. For example, a west-facing living room should use green as the main color to select the colors of the sofa, coffee table, and cabinet, and then decide on the style and specifications of the furniture.
If the color, style, and specifications of the furniture are not considered before decoration, the design plan is only a virtual design, and the decoration result will inevitably contradict and be uncoordinated with the arranged furniture.
Tip 3: There are techniques for furniture placement  .
  The sofa is an important piece of furniture in the living room, and a coffee table should be placed next to it to complement it.
The sofa 
  should have a "mountain" behind it, but not a "water" behind it. The so-called "mountain" refers to a solid wall behind the sofa, which provides support and security, in accordance with the principles of a peaceful home. If the sofa is backed by a window, door, or passageway, without a solid wall for support, it's like having no support behind you, creating a feeling of emptiness and insecurity psychologically.
The sofa is the host, and the coffee table is the 
  guest; a coffee table should be placed beside or in front of the sofa . The sofa is the host, the coffee table is the guest; the sofa,
being higher, represents the mountain, while the coffee table, being lower, represents water. The two must complement each other, creating a balance of mountain and  water
  , and a harmonious relationship between host and guest. Ideally, the coffee table should be no higher than knee-high when seated on the sofa. Regarding cabinets, a low sofa represents water, while a tall cabinet represents the mountain. An ideal living room has a balance of heights, a mountain, and water. However, if a low cabinet is used, both the sofa and the cabinet are relatively short, creating a water-without-mountain arrangement, which must be improved. For example, placing a horizontal landscape painting on the low cabinet can effectively increase its height, making it slightly taller than the sofa, thus achieving the desired effect of a harmonious balance of mountain and water.
Lesson Four: The Art of Living Room Arrangement 
  Whether it's color matching, the orientation and placement of sofas and coffee tables, the hanging of calligraphy and paintings, or the decoration and arrangement of fish tanks and bonsai, everything is carefully considered, and the overall effect is interconnected…
  The living room is a public space and the connecting point between all functional areas of the house, so the flow of movement should be open, ideally located in the center of the house. The living room should be at the front of the house, not at the back. Compared to the bedrooms, the living room must have good lighting, with ample light; this is what is commonly referred to as "bright living room, dark bedrooms."
  The most important location in the living room is the wealth position, the best location being the diagonal corner opposite the entrance. If the house door opens to the left, the wealth position is at the top of the right corner. Paintings in the living room should depict positive and upright themes. For example, in landscape paintings, the water should flow inwards, not outwards; water flowing inwards signifies wealth entering the house. In boat paintings, the bow should face inwards, not outwards; water facing inwards attracts wealth and treasures.


The "Economics" of Small Apartment Design: 
This is the home of a pragmatist who values ​​design style. He is pragmatic, concrete, and possesses a strong personality; he appreciates purity and elegance; he is extremely discerning about his lifestyle, requiring meticulous arrangement of everything; he is even meticulous in his choice of clothing and accessories. Thus, he transformed his small 80-square-meter apartment into a "simple yet noble" home. 
　　Highlight 1: Although the foyer is small, its design achieves independence and maximizes space by dividing it into specific functional areas such as a bar, foyer cabinet, and laundry room. The mirrors here are "solid," expanding the space while also serving a strong decorative function. 
　　Highlight 2: The kitchen entrance is cleverly designed at a 45-degree angle, increasing the amount of natural light and the sense of space in the living room, dining room, and small study. The materials used, such as metal, sheet metal, glass, and wool, create a contrast in texture; white, black, and green also create a color contrast. The homeowner wanted to use these elements to reflect the fashionable and sophisticated sense of a mature individual. 
　　Highlight 3: The dining room consists of a square glass table with colorful legs and metal chairs. All the external lines and shapes convey a relaxed feeling. 
　　The bedroom decor is achieved through furniture featuring various geometric lines; however, all lines ultimately fall into two categories: horizontal and vertical. All items and forms embody "simple and understated." 
Find autumnal colors: 
blue is currently trending for children's bedrooms. Using light yellow and light blue as the main color scheme in a children's room will surely make children feel fearless in the crisp autumn air. 
　　As autumn arrives and the weather turns colder, our work is heating up, as it's the peak season for production and sales. Most people are incredibly busy. Encountering busy and demanding work in a bleak atmosphere, especially in a dull environment, will definitely lead to illness. 
　　For your health, if you're not planning a long trip during the National Day holiday but want to relax and rejuvenate, you can start renovating your cozy home. Note that your small changes can bring you and your family a good mood for the entire season. 
　　Example: Small Changes, Big Mood Improvement. 
　　Ai Ling, who works at a foreign-owned advertising company in Guangzhou, had been feeling down for the past few days. She suspected she was overwhelmed by the massive workload before the National Day holiday, as she felt listless and had no appetite. A friend of hers, A Jian, a designer, heard about her "symptoms" and volunteered to visit her home. He concluded, "Your home is too plain. While it suits your work and image, it's negatively impacting your mood." 
　　"Wow!" Ai Ling followed the renovation plan, grabbing a bright blue and yellow fabric and laying it on the dining table. Then she mixed a large bucket of light green paint and instantly transformed the entire kitchen and living room. After finishing, she ordered a boxed lunch. Although it only cost 12 yuan, she ate it with relish. 
　　Calculating the costs, the fabric, paint, and labor totaled less than 800 yuan, yet it easily changed her gloomy mood. Ai Ling felt this was the most brilliant thing she had done this autumn. 
　　Secret: Use only water-based paints. 
　　As the saying goes, "light or heavy makeup, both are beautiful." Some prefer a fresh and elegant look, while others prefer bold and vibrant colors. To express youthful splendor in autumn, we suggest using more bright colors. You might want to try some water-based craft paints. They can be easily applied to paper, wood, fabrics, and even unglazed ceramic jars without worrying about fading. From an entire wall to a small tile, you can freely depict your mood or use stamps to create various patterns to achieve different visual effects. 
　　Water-based paints are non-toxic and easy to clean. The paint adheres easily and can be touched immediately after drying in a few minutes. When used on fabrics, they can be applied to various linen products, clothing, tablecloths, and even bed sheets. No ironing is required; the prints can be used overnight. On wood panels: For example, on wardrobes, cabinets, and wooden floors, printing patterns of leaves, petals, or shells will create unexpected effects. On paper: Home decorations, including paper lanterns, can be printed with different decorative patterns. For ceramics: It can also be printed on ceramic tiles. However, for glazed ceramic products, the pigment is not easy to apply, so a little skill is required. 
　　Market selection: Water-based paints come in coarse and fine varieties, and there are many brands. Since they are not very expensive, it is recommended that you choose the finest variety. This will save you a lot of trouble, preventing you from having to redo it every few days. If you want to buy it, don't go to building material markets; it is generally sold in paint shops near art academies. 
　　Practical application: Large rooms, small investment, big changes  .
　　If you are looking for an affordable way to renovate your existing large room, consider using a carefully designed color scheme throughout the space. 
　　Whether you choose one, two, three, or more colors, paint can revitalize lifeless doors and trim; highlight the interior space of open shelving; give unpolished furniture a new lease on life; and cover up imperfections on damaged hard floor surfaces. Painting is a wonderful way to highlight a room's theme, such as adding hand-painted murals, stenciled borders, and printed patterns, which can further personalize the space. 
　　Paint can be used to distinguish different areas of a space, acting as dividing lines between different parts of a room. For example, painting the wall behind a bookshelf with the same decorative pattern as the matching chair can clearly indicate and distinguish the function of this space. 
　　Of course, when making these decisions, you can consider new autumnal color palettes. Vibrant chocolate, cinnamon, deep burgundy, and brick red can bring a wonderfully warm effect to large rooms. Other autumnal colors include wheat, as well as mustard yellow and ochre. 
　　Market Choices: Regardless of the color you choose, always keep in mind that high-quality paint ensures easier application and longer-lasting results. Currently, new 100% pure acrylic interior wall and decorative line paints are increasingly popular. Many manufacturers have begun to offer new product lines or update existing paints to 100% pure acrylic paints. These products offer excellent performance in terms of paint application characteristics, scrub resistance, color retention, and coverage. 
　　Additional Note: Changing the color of your room and the skin tone of your curtains— 
　　the beauty ideal of looking 20 this year and 18 next year—also applies to home renovations. Choosing a brightly colored tablecloth for the dining table can increase appetite; changing the walls to a bright color can lift your mood during the melancholic autumn season; adding a touch of your husband's favorite color to the kitchen cabinets can encourage him to cook more often; and giving your curtains a new look with rich and varied patterns can instantly make you look younger. 
　　The overall idea is: as autumn deepens, people's moods may become somewhat melancholic, so we should dress warmly; similarly, as autumn arrives, let your home "dress" warmly, adding many cozy colors. 
　　The warmth of a room's decor mainly relies on changes in fabrics. Choose medium-weight fabrics, such as corduroy and Indian cotton. Indian cotton has a very thick weave and can be used for rugs, tablecloths, lampshades, cushions, etc., and corduroy can also be used for these purposes; you can also use woolen products appropriately. For large areas of fabric such as curtains, large floral patterns are generally recommended. 
　　It's important to note that the colors of the fabrics you change for your home in autumn should harmonize with the colors of the walls and furniture. To create a beautiful DIY home renovation, the key is color harmony. 
　　Market guidance: Achieving color harmony is quite complex, but remember two "lazy" methods to avoid mistakes when buying. First, use the same color family for fabrics and decorations. For example, use yellow for curtains, and different shades of yellow for sofa covers and tablecloths. If there are floral patterns, choose similar patterns for different fabrics, or patterns with similar main colors. 
Home renovation construction steps:   
　　 1. Civil engineering and water and electricity renovation. 2. Woodwork ceiling, door installation, furniture. 3. Floor tiles. 4. Painting. 5. Latex paint, wallpaper. 6. Lighting and sanitary ware installation. 7. Flooring installation. For   
  
  
  
floor tile installation   
　　　　, old house floors must be thoroughly roughened, with a depth of not less than 0.5 cm and a spacing of 5 cm, then brushed with a layer of clean cement slurry. Take care to prevent water accumulation and seepage to the floor below through the gaps between the slabs. Use a level to ensure the floor is level; if the height difference exceeds 2°, apply a mortar leveling layer. The mortar mix ratio should be 1:3. The type, specifications, color, and pattern of the stone and floor tiles should meet the design and homeowner's requirements. The surface of the decorative panels should be free of scratches, chipped edges, and other quality defects. Expired or lumpy cement must not be used as an adhesive. All floor tiles must be unpacked and inspected before laying, selecting those with large dimensional errors. Before laying the floor tiles, careful measurements should be taken, and the floor tiles should be laid out using a computer by the decoration company, with at least two layout options. After the client signs off, the exact number of tiles should be tallied, aiming for aesthetically pleasing arrangement and minimizing waste, with a focus on checking the room's geometric dimensions for uniformity. Use a 1:2.5 cement-mortar volume ratio, and the bonding layer should be at least 12° thick, with full mortar coverage. Use only 425 grade cement from a reputable manufacturer. 800×800 polished tiles or granite should be laid using a cement-sand volume ratio of 1:4 to 1:6. Tiles larger than 600*600 (including 600*600) and 500X500 should be laid using the dry-laying method. Terracotta tiles must be soaked in water before use. Granite should be soaked and dried before color selection. Before laying, draw cross lines in both horizontal and vertical directions. During laying, ensure that the horizontal and vertical lines are continuous and that there are no misalignments. The tile joint width should be 1×, not exceeding 2×. If the tile size error exceeds 1×, the joint width can be uniformly 2×, not exceeding 3×, after the user's signature. Regularly check the joints. Pay attention to whether the tiles need to be patterned or laid in a uniform direction. Tile cutting must be accurate. The joints at door frames, cabinet bottoms, etc., must be tight and the gaps even. The joint between the tile edge and the wall should not exceed 5×. Clean the tiles as you lay them, keeping the area clean at all times. (Sweep with cotton yarn or sawdust) and clean the cement mortar in the brick joints to facilitate grouting after completion. Check the flatness of the floor tiles with a 2M level, and the error should not exceed 2┨. The height difference between adjacent tiles should not exceed 1┨, and the straightness of the gaps should be 3┨. During tile laying, other trades must not contaminate the work, and no one should step on the tiles. Grout lines should be cleaned within 24 hours of completion, with cleaning done as needed, and curing performed. The percentage of hollow tiles should be controlled to within 3%. Hollow tiles in main passageways must be reworked (3% refers to hollow edges of individual tiles; entire tiles must not be hollow). After tiling, once the tiles are inspected for flatness errors, hollow spots, color differences, etc., they should be completely covered and protected with thick cardboard. Nails on the cardboard must be removed, and the cardboard sheets must be sealed tightly with adhesive to prevent debris from entering. Grouting should be done before completion. First, clean the grout lines, then use white cement mixed with talcum powder to make a putty that is lower than the tile surface.   
　　　　The type, specifications, color, opening direction, combination form, and accessories of aluminum alloy doors and windows should meet the design or contract requirements. Aluminum alloy doors and windows should be installed horizontally and vertically in the opening. The outer frame should be securely and elastically connected to the opening using connectors (pieces); the outer frame of the doors and windows should not be directly embedded in the wall. Connectors (pieces) are generally made of 140×20×1.5┨ galvanized iron. There must be at least two connection points on each side of the outer frame to the opening, and the distance between two adjacent connection points must not exceed 600┨. Connectors (pieces) must not be fixed to the perimeter of the opening using plastic (wood) expansion bolts, and it is strictly forbidden to directly fix the outer frame with plastic (wood) expansion screws. Horizontal and vertical combinations of aluminum alloy doors and windows should use interlocking joints to form curved surfaces, with an overlap length preferably of 10┨, and sealed with sealant. Gaps between the outer frame of aluminum alloy doors and windows and the wall are generally filled in layers with mineral wool strips or glass wool felt, leaving a 5-8┨ deep groove on the outer surface of the gap, which is then filled with waterproof sealant. Aluminum alloy components must not be in direct contact with cement mortar. Aluminum alloy door and window assemblies should be firmly connected, with the distance between two adjacent connection points not exceeding 400┨, and corrosion-resistant filling materials should be used to seal and waterproof the connection points. Exposed screws should be sealed with a sealing material of the same color as the doors and windows. Casement window sashes should be connected using stainless steel sliding supports. Casement doors and windows can be connected using springs or matching hinges. The use of ordinary hinges for exterior casement window sashes is strictly prohibited. Sliding aluminum alloy door and window sashes should have adjustable limit clips, which should be installed on the upper side of the door and window sash. Drainage holes (grooves) should be provided on the outer side of aluminum alloy door and window frames to allow for immediate rainwater drainage. Sealing strips should have sufficient expansion allowance, be cut at a 45-degree angle at corners, and be firmly adhered with adhesive to prevent shrinkage seams. For latex paint projects:   
　　　　01. The original base layer of old houses must be completely removed (except for new houses and intact old paint layers). Before applying putty, use a 2M straightedge to check the original base layer. If the error exceeds 5°, level it with talcum powder mixed with white cement or gypsum powder, and require the customer's signature. 02. For the gypsum board base layer, use gypsum powder to grout the joints, then apply kraft paper or special tape, and install the gypsum board screws. Patches should be made with anti-rust paint. 03. For the plywood base layer, first apply a coat of alkyd varnish, then grout with wood glue powder or putty, and then apply kraft paper or special tape. Bubbles are not allowed. 04. Use only qualified products for finished putty paste, cooked glue powder, and talcum powder. 05. Add appropriate amounts of white latex and alkyd varnish to the putty. Use a large electric drill to mix the putty until the viscosity is suitable and the glue is evenly distributed. 06. The first coat of putty can be applied using a 1M-1.5M straightedge. For inside and outside corners, use a chalk line to check verticality and flatness. Subsequent coats of putty should only be applied after the previous coat is completely dry. 07. The second coat of putty should achieve a smooth and glossy surface. Use a 2-meter straightedge to check the flatness; the surface should be ≤3mm. 08. The third coat of putty is for localized touch-ups. Use a 200-watt light bulb or an 800-watt tungsten lamp to check the smoothness by shining light from the side, and then make any necessary adjustments. 09. When applying putty, minimize the amount of dust that falls on the ground or other areas. If it falls on wooden cabinets, doors, etc., clean it up immediately to prevent contamination of other trades. For the smoothness of large areas of latex paint, in addition to using a 2-meter straightedge, it should be checked by hand. There should be no obvious unevenness or particle-like feel. 10. When applying putty at heights, painters should use trestles and planks; stepping on the woodwork is strictly prohibited. Scaffolding should be safe, reliable, and easy to use. If the floor or tiles have already been installed, the trestles must be wrapped in cloth before applying paint. 11. Use masking tape to protect door edges, cabinet edges, and other areas where the paint meets the latex paint. Clean the walls of loose dust with a feather duster before applying the primer. When applying latex paint to moldings, the moldings should be sanded, nail holes filled, and joints repaired before proceeding with the painting. The finished molding texture should be clear and continuous. 12. Apply one coat of primer and two coats of topcoat. After applying the primer, use putty mixed with the primer to fill in any imperfections, sand it, and then apply the topcoat. The joints between the latex paint and moldings, switch panels, and woodwork must be tight and smooth, with no gaps or contamination of the moldings. 13. When applying the topcoat, add water as needed and stir well. The water content should not exceed 20%; too much water will cause brush marks, while too much will result in insufficient coverage. 14. If using a brush, the topcoat should be applied from top to bottom, first vertically then horizontally, and finally, lightly comb through any brush marks vertically. The topcoat should not have obvious brush marks or runs. Painting should proceed from top to bottom, starting with the base layer and then the wall, ensuring continuous completion of the same area. 15. If a pause is needed during painting, immediately soak the brush or roller in paint or clean water. After painting, immediately wash all tools with clean water and allow them to air dry. The final topcoat should be applied after the polyester paint is finished to prevent yellowing of the latex paint. 16. The second coat of topcoat should only be applied after the first coat is completely dry, with an interval of at least two hours. The room temperature for latex paint application should be above 5 degrees Celsius. Keep doors and windows closed to reduce air circulation; ventilation can only be done two hours after painting. Check for any bleed-through, drips, obvious brush marks, or cracks. 17. Other trades should not be working while applying the topcoat of latex paint to prevent contamination. Protect finished products (floors and adjacent finished products). Clean up any latex paint that spills onto other decorative finished products. 18. After latex paint application, protect the finished product from scratches, especially glossy and satin latex paints, as touch-ups on glossy and satin latex paints are prone to unevenness. If latex paint is applied by spraying, specialized spraying equipment must be used. One coat should be applied, and the second coat should only be applied after the first coat is completely dry. 19. When applying large areas of colored latex paint, one wall or room should be prepared first and confirmed by the client before large-scale application. 20. Switches and sockets must be wrapped and protected to prevent contamination. 21. There should be no brush marks, drips, particles, or chips.   
  
Six methods for testing the quality of ceiling tiles:   
　　1. Drip a few drops of tea juice or water onto the back of the tile. After a few minutes, observe the degree of water absorption and diffusion. If the tile absorbs little or no water, the quality is good. 2. Tap the tile and listen to the sound. The crisper the sound, the higher the vitrification, density, and hardness. 3. Scratch the tile with a sharp object to check for scratches. Scratches indicate poor glazing, making the tile slippery. Once the glaze is worn away, the tile surface will be difficult to clean. 4. The color of the tile: clear and natural color indicates high vitrification; unclear color indicates low vitrification. 5. When purchasing, visually inspect the surface for pinholes within one meter. The presence of pinholes indicates incomplete fusion of the glaze, making it prone to dirt accumulation. 6. Observation of straightness: Visually inspect the sides for flatness. Severe flatness will affect future stability. (Zhou Sheng) Identification of Common Boards   
　　　　: Particleboard: A type of engineered wood product made by chopping, screening, mixing with glue, adding waterproofing agents, and then assembling and hot-pressing. It has a flat, sturdy surface, high physical and mechanical strength, consistent longitudinal and transverse strength, and provides sound insulation, mildew resistance, economy, and heat insulation. It is used as a base material in decoration. Solid Wood Flooring: Structures include inlaid, tongue and groove, and flat joints. Currently, splicing (tongue and groove flooring) is mainly used. Commonly used tree species: Beech, Mengele, Borage, Malus baccata, Pterocarpus, Ash, Rosewood, Teak, Birch, Cherry, etc. High precision processing is required. When selecting, several pieces can be spliced ​​together to check for sealing, flatness, smooth surface, no cracks, no heartwood or sapwood, no rot, no insect holes, and a moisture content of 8-13%. Wood moldings: mainly used for edging decoration. Although small in size, they greatly affect the decorative effect. Commonly used species include European beech, Indonesian whitewood, and hemlock. High-quality products should have the correct dimensions (many cheap products cut corners on materials), no dead knots, consistent color, be fully dried, and not deformed. Wood strips: also known as wood backing strips, mainly used as a backing in the decoration process, serving a stabilizing and isolating function. High-quality products should have regular geometric dimensions, few peelings, and few large dead knots. To ensure the decorative effect, dried wood backing strips should be used. Plywood: usually used as the baseboard and also as the veneer. High-quality products have a smooth and flat surface, no delamination, sanding damage, or pressure marks, no obvious color difference, no stains, good dimensional processing precision, small thickness deviation, a bonding strength of 0.7 MPa, and a moisture content of 6-14%. The panels are usually made of mahogany (Okoume), red willow, white willow, mountain laurel, yellow laurel, and cologne, while the core boards are usually made of poplar, mixed wood, and willow.   
  Home decoration consultation   
　　clients consult with designers about home decoration design styles, costs, and cycles. (1) Negotiation When hiring a decoration company, users should tell the company their requirements. It is best if the user's requirements have been discussed in detail by the whole family beforehand and told to the decoration company at one time. The decoration company will listen carefully to the user's opinions and make a record. If the decoration company finds anything unclear afterward, it will contact the user until it is completely clear. (2) Design After receiving the user's floor plan, the decoration company will have the designer personally go to the site to measure and observe the site environment, study whether the user's requirements are feasible, and obtain on-site design inspiration. Some material samples will be initially selected and introduced to the user. If the user agrees, the designer will further provide detailed engineering drawings and itemized quotation. At this time, the user should provide the decoration company with information on the furniture and equipment to be used in order to cooperate with the design. The final drawings and quotation provided by the renovation company should clearly express the dimensions, construction methods, materials (including brand and model), and price of each part. For example, a vague phrase like "one set of kitchen cabinets" cannot be used to summarize a detailed project. If some cabinets are composed of many smaller cabinets, the user should know the model, size, and related accessories of these smaller cabinets. After receiving the engineering drawings and quotation, the user must carefully read them to check whether the renovation company has provided all the renovation items requested and whether any items have been omitted. Often, many users only care about the final total price. If this total price does not include the items the user needs, you will suffer financial loss. If you are unsure what a piece of furniture will look like after completion, you can ask the renovation company to provide a 3D drawing of the furniture. Ask questions if anything is unclear, and request changes if it is unsuitable until you are satisfied. From initial consultation to design completion, the design time for small and medium-sized residences usually takes 3 to 7 days. Budget Contents:   
　 　The budget for home interior decoration projects is an important part of home renovation, as it directly relates to the family's financial capacity and the reasonable allocation of funds. Generally speaking, the project budget quota serves as the standard and basis for settlement in the later stages of the project, with the difference only between 3% and 5%. Therefore, the project budget plays a crucial role in interior decoration. The basis for compiling an interior decoration project budget includes: 1. Decoration engineering design drawings. This includes planning drawings, i.e., floor plans before and during decoration; detailed drawings of specific areas, such as the kitchen, living room, and bedrooms. 2. Decoration renderings. This includes overall renderings, i.e., renderings of the entire room; and partial renderings, i.e., renderings of each unit that makes up the room. 3. Decoration engineering construction plan. The methods and steps for compiling an interior decoration budget include: 1. Data collection. Collecting the necessary data for budget preparation, and identifying the location and transportation routes of required materials to determine the necessary handling costs. 2. Familiarizing oneself with the drawings and understanding the design intent. Construction drawings are the primary basis for calculating quantities and applying budget quotas. Therefore, the following content must be carefully read: the elevation and cross-sectional dimensions of walls and columns; decorative materials and construction methods; connection treatment between decorative parts and their components; ceiling framework; panel construction; types and materials of doors and windows; paint, coatings, wallpaper, etc., and their requirements; interior decorative strips; dimensions and construction requirements for lamps, mirrors, cabinets, etc. 3. Read the quota instructions and calculate quantities. After thoroughly understanding the drawings, first read the general instructions of the quota, then, following the quota's arrangement, refer to the relevant content on the drawings, read the section instructions and quantity calculation rules, and select the items to calculate quantities. 4. Apply the quota or unit price list to calculate direct costs. Multiply the calculated quantities, according to the unit of measurement required by the quota item number, by the labor costs, material costs, and machinery costs in the quota. The sum is the direct cost of the item. Specific calculations are done on the budget sheet. The consumption of labor, materials, and machinery in a renovation budget is a key indicator in the budget quota. The calculation formulas are as follows: Quota labor cost = Quota man-days × Daily wage standard; Quota material cost = Material quantity × Budgeted material price + Machinery consumption cost (machinery consumption cost is 1%-2% of material cost). In actual renovations, the renovation budget cost = Material cost + Labor cost + Loss cost + Transportation cost + Machinery cost + Management fee + Tax. Because material prices vary from place to place, renovation costs also differ, but the calculation formula for the renovation project quantity remains consistent. During renovation, you can calculate the material usage using the formulas in the example below. Floor tile usage: Usage per 100 meters = 100 ÷ [(tile length + grout width) × (tile width + grout width)] × (1 + wastage rate). For example, if the retro floor tile specifications are 0.5 × 0.5M, the joint width is 0.002M, and the wastage rate is 1%, the number of tiles needed for 100 square meters is: Usage per 100 square meters = 100 ÷ [(0.5 + 0.002) × (0.5 + 0.002) × (1 + 0.01) = 401 tiles. Ceiling usage: Ceiling panel usage = (length - shielding length) × (width - shielding width). For example, calculate the usage of PVC plastic ceiling based on the net area. The unit price of PVC plastic board is 50.81 yuan/m2. The shielding length and width are both 0.24m. The ceiling length is 3m and the width is 4.5m. The usage is as follows: Ceiling board usage = (3 - 0.24) × (4.5 - 0.24) = 11.76m2. Door covering usage: Door covering material usage = Door frame length × Door frame width. For example, if composite wood board is used to cover the door, the door frame length is 2.7m and the width is 1.5m, then the material usage is as follows: Door covering material usage = 2.7 × 1.5 = 4.05m2. Wallpaper usage: Wallpaper usage = (Height - Shielding length) × (Width - Shielding width) × Number of walls - Door area - Window area. For example... The wall area is calculated based on net dimensions. The shielding is 24cm, the wall height is 2.5m, and the width is 5m. The door area is 2.8m², and the window area is 3.6m². Therefore, the wallpaper usage is as follows: Wallpaper usage = [(2.5-0.24)×(5-0.24)]×4-2.8-3.6=36.6m². The above is a partial calculation of material usage. By multiplying the usage of each part of the decoration materials by their respective unit prices and adding them up, the total material cost of the decoration project can be obtained. It should be noted that the budget for home decoration varies greatly depending on the project investment limit and the standards of construction materials. Therefore, during decoration, it is necessary to carefully analyze and select appropriate materials from both scientific and artistic perspectives, and to rationally combine them to prepare a budget in advance. I. The strength and density of the base layer (leveling layer) must meet the design requirements and construction acceptance specifications. The bond between the base layer (leveling layer) and the structural layer must be firm and free of hollow areas. 1. The surface of the ground base layer (leveling layer) must be qualified: the surface is dense and free of obvious cracks. Defects such as sanding, peeling, and pinholes. Excellent: Dense and clean surface, uniform joints, no cracks, sanding, peeling, or pinholes. 2. Floor drain and backflow quality standards: Acceptable: Slope meets the requirements for liquid drainage, no backflow, no leakage. Excellent: Slope meets design requirements, no backflow, no leakage, no water accumulation. Tight and smooth connection with floor drain (pipe). 3. Skirting board: Should be flush with the wall. Acceptable: Consistent height, firmly bonded to the wall, straight angle with the floor base (leveling layer), tight, local hollow areas no longer than 400 mm, and no more than 4 locations within one inspection area. Excellent: Consistent height, firmly bonded to the wall, straight angle with the floor base (leveling layer), tight, local hollow areas no longer than 400 mm, and no more than 2 locations within one inspection area. 4. The surface flatness of the ground base layer (leveling layer) should not exceed 5 mm, and the straightness of the junction line between the skirting board and the wall should not exceed 4 mm. II. Inspection of Interior Walls and Ceilings. 1. Solid lines must be marked on the wall surface. 2. Each plaster layer must be firmly bonded to the ground base layer, without delamination, hollow areas, popping, or cracks (except for wind cracks). 3. When not specified in the design, the skirting board, kitchen, and bathroom wainscoting should have a cement mortar base layer, 200 mm above the skirting board's vertical surface and 1400 mm above the wainscoting's vertical surface. 4. When applying a topcoat to the plaster layer, it should be inspected and evaluated according to the intermediate plastering sub-project standard. 5. For plaster layers without a topcoat: Acceptable: Smooth surface, straight lines and corners, no obvious sand holes. Excellent: Smooth surface, straight and clear lines and corners, uniform joints, clean and free of sand holes. 6. 7. Holes, grooves, and pipes without a topcoat: Acceptable: Correct dimensions, neat edges; smooth surface behind pipes, no obvious sand holes. Excellent: Correct dimensions, neat edges; smooth surface behind pipes, no obvious sand holes. 8. Corner guards. Gaps between door/window frames and walls. Acceptable: Corner guards conform to construction acceptance specifications. The fixing and gap filling methods between door/window frames and walls should follow design requirements or construction acceptance specifications. Excellent: Corner guards conform to construction specifications, smooth surface. The fixing and gap filling methods between door/window frames and walls should follow design requirements or construction acceptance specifications, and the surface should be smooth. 9. Flatness of interior plaster layer. Verticality should not exceed 5 mm. Verticality of internal and external corners should be controlled within 4 mm, and smoothness within 2 mm. 10. Balcony steel doors should not be made 30 mm high. The threshold width should be level with the inner and outer surfaces of the wall; the distance from the sawtooth edge of the wooden inner frame of the apartment door to the interior floor base (leveling layer) should preferably be 30 mm. III. Verification of Paint on Interior Wooden Doors and Windows: 1. Slight bleeding, drips, and wrinkles. Acceptable: Slight bleeding, drips, and wrinkles. Excellent: No bleeding, drips, or wrinkles. 2. Surface smoothness: Acceptable: Generally smooth. Excellent: Smooth. 3. Color and brushstrokes: Acceptable: Uniform color. Excellent: Uniform color and smooth brushstrokes. IV. Verification of Plumbing and Electrical Installations: 1. The distance between water supply and gas pipes inside the door and the plaster surface should be 30-40 mm. 2. Sanitary ware (basins, toilet tanks, etc.) installed against the wall should be framed from the plaster surface, and the serrated edge should be 30 mm from the indoor floor base (leveling layer). 3. The distance between concealed water supply and hot water pipes and the brick wall surface should not be less than 10 mm. Reserved hot and cold water interfaces should use pipe plugs, with a length not less than 70 mm.热水管道的保温按设计要求施工，设计无要求的，按日常标准执行。 4．安装坐便器的，其底座应高出地面基层２０~２５毫米。 5．地漏应安装就位，其篦子顶面应高出地面基层１０毫米。 6．卫生器具未安装的，其排水管道均应采用临时设施作通水试验。 7．未安装卫生器具排水管道落水头了的标高，宜高出毛地面３０~５０毫米，管口应有保护措施。 8．电表箱．分户闸箱合格：箱体开孔合格，暗配箱箱盖紧贴墙面，箱体接地可靠，油漆完整，明塑料表板四点受力，牢固。优良：箱体内外清洁，箱内排线整齐，管子与箱连接有专用锁紧螺母。 9．插座．开关．电视．电话。合格：板面端正，紧贴墙面，相线．零线安装正确，电视．电话盒加盖盒盖。优良：盒内板面清洁，管入盒有锁口装置。 10．灯具安装：元木和吊（座）罗口．通电灯亮。




     油漆小技巧 
油漆是室内装饰中重要的一环，容易出现一些棘手问题，让人束手无策，其实只要找出问题的发生原因，对症下药，就不难有令人满意的结果，以下即针对油漆易产生的问题，提出解决之道，让您在室内装修时得心应手
油漆剥落：可能是表面过于光滑的缘故，若原涂料是有光漆或者是粉质的（加未经处理的色浆涂料），新上的油漆在表面就粘不牢。或可能是木料腐朽或金属有锈斑，也有因油漆质量不好而剥落的。小面积的油漆剥落，可用细纱纸打磨，然后抹上腻子，刷上底漆，再重新上漆。大面积的脱落必须把漆全部剥去，重新涂刷。
油漆起泡：首先将泡刺破，如有水冒出，即说明漆层底下或背后有潮气渗入，经太阳一晒，水分蒸发成蒸汽，就会把漆皮顶起成泡。此时，先用热风喷枪除去起跑的油漆，让木料自然干燥，然后刷上底漆，最后再在整个修补面上重新上漆。若泡中无水，就可能是木纹开裂，内有少量空气，经太阳一晒，空气膨胀，漆皮就鼓起了。面对这种情况，先刮掉起泡的漆皮，再用树脂填料填平裂纹，重新上漆，或不用填料，在刮去漆皮后直接涂上微孔漆。
出现裂纹：这种情况多半要用化学除漆剂或热风喷枪将漆除去后，再重新上漆。若断裂范围不大，这时可用砂磨块或干湿两用砂纸沾水，磨去断裂的油漆，在表面打磨光滑以后，抹上腻子，刷上底漆，再重新上漆。
油漆流淌：油漆一次刷得太厚，即会造成流淌。可趁漆尚未干，用刷子把漆刷开。若漆已开始变干，则要待其干透，用细纱纸把漆面打磨平滑，将表面刷干净，再用湿布擦净，然后重新上外层漆注意不要刷得太厚。
发霉变色：这种问题多发生在潮湿的油漆表面，如水汽凝结在玻璃和金属表面时常会产生棕黑色的污斑。此时可用杀菌剂，照说明书的指示处理发霉的部位，待霉菌杀死后，将表面清洗干净，然后再重新上漆。
污 斑：油漆表面产生污斑的原因很多。例如：乳胶漆中的水分溶化墙上的物质而锈出漆面，用钢丝绒擦过的墙面会产生锈斑。墙内暗管渗漏出现污斑等。为防止污斑，，可先刷一层含铝粉的底漆，若已出现污斑，可先除去污斑处乳胶漆，刷层含铝粉的底漆后，再重新上漆。 
失去光泽：原因是未上底漆，或底漆及内层漆未干就直接上有光漆，结果有光漆被木料吸收而失去光泽。有光漆的不好也是一个原因。用干湿两用砂纸把旧漆磨掉，刷去打磨的灰尘，用干净湿布把表面擦净，待干透后，再重新刷上面漆。要特别注意的是，在气温很低的环境下涂漆，漆膜干后，也可能失去光泽。
漆膜起皱：通常是因第一遍漆未干即刷第二遍漆引起的。这时下层漆中的溶剂会影响上层漆膜，使其起皱。此情况可用化学除汞剂或加热法除去起皱的漆膜，重新上漆。记住，一定要等第一遍漆干后，才可上第二遍。 
漆面毛糙：新上漆的表面毛糙，通常是所用的漆刷不干净或受周围环境污染之故。也有可能是油漆中混有漆皮，在使用前未经沉淀或过滤，或油漆未干时沾上了灰尘。为防止发生上述问题，必须采用干净的漆刷和漆桶。旧漆使用前一定要用油漆滤纸或干净的尼龙丝袜过滤。
另外漆好的表面在油漆未干时要用罩子或硬纸板遮住，以防沾上灰尘。如果漆面毛糙，待其干透后，用干湿两用砂纸打磨光滑、擦净后，再重新刷上油漆。要特别注意漆刷必须是干净的。 
油漆不干：室内通风不好或温度太低，油漆就干得慢。这时可以打开所有门窗促进通风，或在室内放一加热器增加室温。如仍不能解决问题，可能是上漆的表面油腻。此时可用化学除漆剂或加热除去油漆，彻底把表面擦净后重新上漆。
漆面粘上小虫：尽量趁油漆未干时将小虫剔去，然后用刷子沾一点油漆轻轻修补一下表面。如油漆己干，则需等漆膜变硬后再除去小虫，这样才不会把表面弄得一塌糊涂。
上漆木料表面出沉暗斑：可能是木节在上漆前未封住，经太阳一晒，木节受热，树脂从木节巾渗出而引起的。此时可用刮刀刮去油漆，然后以细砂纸打磨至露出木节后，用封节漆将木节封住，待干透后，再重新上漆。

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title:
Kitchen and bathroom ceilings have special requirements due to the high humidity, oil fumes, and odors present. Therefore, choosing appropriate materials and construction methods during renovation can significantly reduce future problems. 
Waterproof coatings, PVC panels, and aluminum composite panels are commonly used materials for kitchen and bathroom ceilings. Waterproof coatings are easy to apply, relatively inexpensive, and come in a variety of colors. However, they may experience localized peeling and fading over time.
PVC panels are widely used in modern homes, offering convenient and quick installation, rich colors, and, most importantly, good waterproofing, easy cleaning, and long-term durability. However, their industrialized production processes are more noticeable, lacking personalization.
In recent years, aluminum composite panels have become increasingly popular. Made from lightweight aluminum sheets through a single stamping process, they are then coated with a special plastic layer, resulting in vibrant and rich colors that do not fade over time. They offer excellent waterproofing, are easy to install, and do not deform. However, they are relatively more expensive. However, material selection is only the first step; the most crucial aspect during construction is the proper ventilation and dehumidification system to ensure timely removal of humid air from the room.

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title:
New Trends in Home Decoration:
Computerized Decoration Creates a New Lifestyle. 
    To achieve novel, beautiful, functional, safe, comfortable, and energy-efficient living spaces, computer technology, a darling of high technology, is increasingly being used in interior design and decorative products, becoming a new decorative trend with a contemporary feel. 
1. Computerized Lighting 
    : Utilizing computer chips, computerized lighting fixtures can emit red, green, yellow, blue, and white colors at set times and automatically adjust the light intensity. The intensity and color changes can be adjusted by touch or by the infrared radiation emitted by the human body. Computer sensors automatically switch the lights on and off based on the infrared radiation feedback signal from the human body. This simplifies life, saves energy, and extends the lifespan of the lighting fixtures. 
2. Computerized Sanitary Ware 
    : Computerized steam showers automatically control the amount of steam and water temperature. These computer-controlled devices can also play music, providing a truly enjoyable experience. 
3. Computerized Toilets 
    : Equipped with a computer control box, these toilets can control the spray height, flushing temperature, and water volume, and also automatically flush after use.
4. Intelligent computer door lock: This type of door lock allows for remote control of the door from inside the house, enhancing home security. 
5. Computer design 
    allows designers to fully unleash their imagination, creating beautiful and innovative patterns for the floors, walls, and interior layouts of bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens, and bathrooms.  New 
decorative materials: 
1. Porcelain polished  tiles:
    These are a very popular new type of decorative ceramic material both domestically and internationally. They are characterized by their hardness, wear resistance, frost and stain resistance, acid and alkali resistance, bright and luxurious appearance, and longevity. Their decorative effect is comparable to granite. They come in four major series and hundreds of varieties: unglazed polished tiles, granite polished tiles, red polished tiles, and inlaid polished tiles. 
2. Anti-slip, durable wear-resistant floor tiles: 
    These tiles are made by mixing appropriate amounts of diamond grit or other hard, wear-resistant materials into plastic materials, followed by batching, mixing, stirring, plasticizing, and calendering to create floor slabs or tiles. It possesses excellent wear resistance and slip resistance, and also has waterproof, oil-proof, and acid and alkali-proof properties, offering good hygiene and decorative effects. The manufacturer has applied for a patent in China (Building Materials Industry Information 1999. No. 9 P66). 
3. Soft Stone Flooring (A New Favorite in Decoration): 
    This is a new generation of high-end building decoration material synthesized from natural marble powder and various polymer materials. It has both the texture of natural marble and special patterns and properties, being soft, firm, slip-resistant, fire-retardant, and easy to install. It is a cost-effective and trendy environmentally friendly decorative material. The Chinese government and relevant departments attach great importance to promoting the use of green and environmentally friendly building materials. Due to its advantages of energy saving, pollution-free, and recyclable properties, soft stone flooring is increasingly favored by experts and consumers, becoming a new consumer trend. 
4. High-tech, Non-toxic, Pollution-free, High-strength Wood Material (Leading a New Trend in Home Decoration): 
    A high-tech, non-toxic, pollution-free, high-strength decorative board is popular in Europe and is now produced and selling well in the domestic market. This decorative board has a rich texture finish of maple, beech, teak, cherry, etc., and can be made into removable protective panels, reinforced flooring, ceiling panels, skirting boards and other wood products. It does not require large-scale construction, which can save wood and improve utilization. The advantages are simple process, quick and convenient processing and production, and safety and hygiene. 
5. New decorative material - glass crystal bricks are launched 
    A glass crystal brick decorative material that can realize clean production in the building materials industry has been successfully developed by Northwest Light Industry College. Its characteristics are: (1) It uses crushed glass as raw material, adds a very small amount of other additives (clay), and fires at low temperature, reducing carbon dioxide and exhaust gas emissions by 25%, achieving clean production, and the cost is lower than other similar building materials. (2) It has excellent performance, comparable to the performance of microcrystalline glass decorative panels produced by sintering method, with high hardness, high strength, wide range of applications, and can be used repeatedly in different occasions for a long time. (3) The product can be recycled and reused, opening up a new way for the utilization of crushed glass in China. (Building Materials Industry Information 2000 No5 P63). 
6. Crystal Glass Interior Wall Tiles: 
    These tiles combine the main characteristics of crystal and glass ceramic tiles, possessing the luster of crystal, the clarity of glass, and the durability of ceramic tiles. Their internal quality is enhanced through a process called "strengthening treatment." Tests conducted by relevant departments have proven that their performance indicators, such as water absorption rate, resistance to temperature changes, wear resistance, corrosion resistance, flexural strength, and dimensional specifications, fully comply with national standards and have reached international levels. These tiles are aesthetically pleasing products, available in five main color families: white, pink, red, light blue, pale, and camel, with variations in shades from dark to medium to light. When decorated with single floral patterns, borders, or single/double arches, they create a sense of unity and depth in the interior, resulting in a highly artistic and impactful piece (Building Materials Industry Information 2000, No. 5, P57). 
7. Wright.L Undersea Stone Floor Tiles) 
    These tiles are imported directly from the headquarters of Wright.L in France. Each fossil pattern is designed by a famous French designer and is hand-painted. They inherit the style of European classical architecture from the 16th to 18th centuries and uniquely showcase modern classical sentiment. Each fossil pattern is precious. 
  Wright.L Undersea Fossil Floor Tiles have a natural and simple style and a taste that is completely different from ordinary building materials. They are highly regarded by people of high social standing in various countries. They are widely used in decorative arts, from garden pavements to building walls; from swimming pools, baths, and flower beds to hotels and villas; from modern apartments to high-end homes; from indoor to outdoor spaces. We are 
    now sincerely recruiting agents and distributors. Please feel free to inquire. TEL: (010) 64281034, 64223856. 
    Its characteristics are (1) Fossil floor tiles are made by mixing natural volcanic rock and high-strength resin materials (in a ratio of 95/5) and then processing them with advanced equipment. (2) High strength, its strength is far higher than that of marble, and there is no color difference. Its corrosion resistance, anti-slip properties and radioactivity are all grade A. Its application range is not limited and it is an environmentally friendly green product. (3) Sea fossil floor tiles can be cut into different specifications and shapes of irregular plates according to different user needs, so as to meet a variety of needs. (4) It can be assembled into a variety of patterns according to user requirements (Building Materials Industry Information 2000. No.7 P76). 
8. Green building materials of the 21st century - microcrystalline glass granite decorative panels. 
    Microcrystalline glass granite decorative panels are currently a popular high-end building decoration material internationally. They are more flexible in design than natural granite and have a better decorative effect. They are green building materials of the 21st century and are ideal decorative materials for interior and exterior walls and floors. 
    Microcrystalline glass granite is a new type of decorative material produced by controlled crystallization technology. Its structure is dense, high-strength, wear-resistant and corrosion-resistant. In terms of appearance, it has clear texture, bright color, no color difference and does not fade. It is the most ideal substitute for natural granite, and has the following advantages compared with natural granite: 
(1) Color. Various decorative materials of various colors, tones and mixed colors can be produced according to requirements. The colors include white, green, gray, yellow, red, blue and black, and the decorative effect is better. 
(2) Material. The composition of microcrystalline glass granite decorative panels is the same as that of natural granite. Both belong to silicate. In the internal structure of the material, the main crystal phase of wollastonite grows, so it is superior to natural granite in terms of wear resistance, corrosion resistance and strength. 
(3) Environmental protection. Natural granite contains trace amounts of radioactive substances that are harmful to the human body, while microcrystalline glass granite panels do not contain any type of radioactive substances, which meets environmental protection requirements and is beneficial to the human body. 
(4) Specifications. Flat panels and curved panels of various thicknesses and sizes can be produced. In addition, microcrystalline glass granite decorative panels of more than 30 mixed colors and various specifications of special shapes can also be produced. It is the first choice of ideal decorative material for airports, banks, districts, hotels, restaurants, villas and residences (Building Materials Industry Information 2000. No.5 P62). 
9. Volcanic Rock Main Columns and Panels 
  Shanghai Baroque Products Volcanic Rock Main Columns and Panels, all originating from nature, have won the favor of designers and customers with their natural style and natural creativity. Whether it is a column or a panel, it has the following characteristics: 
(1) All decorative parts are made of natural volcanic rock and high-strength resin materials (ratio of 95/5), and then processed by advanced equipment. 
(2) This material has extremely high strength, far exceeding that of natural marble, with no color difference. After testing, its corrosion resistance, anti-slip properties, and radioactivity are all of Grade A. Its application scope is not limited and it is the best choice for swimming pools, saunas, garden squares, roads, villa interior and exterior walls and floors, etc. - an internationally recognized green and environmentally friendly product. 
(3) The use of volcanic rock decorative panels is not only for the decoration of interior and exterior walls and floors of buildings, but also can be cut into various specifications and shapes of special panels according to the different needs of users, so as to meet the decoration needs of various aspects and parts. 
(4) The patterns of volcanic rock panels are rich and varied, and designers can design and produce a variety of artistic and beautiful patterns. 
10. Domestic Decorative Tiles Favored by Europe and America: 
    China produces a wide variety of decorative tiles with excellent quality and exquisite craftsmanship. Light colors are popular, such as light gray, light pink, beige, and light green. Many American customers are very interested in Chinese tiles; a large portion of the tiles sold in the US market are Chinese products, used not only in kitchens and bathrooms but also as common decorative materials in luxury homes. They are aesthetically pleasing, durable, and have a promising future. 
11. Fire-Resistant Wood Flooring: 
    The fire-resistant wood flooring launched by the French company, Wiessen, features a high-density wood fiber interior, possessing the warmth of wood and characteristics similar to stone. It is impact-resistant and crack-resistant. Its bottom layer is treated with special resin impregnation, providing excellent moisture resistance and preventing bulging and deformation. The surface is a decorative layer with wood and stone grain patterns, coated with a high-strength, wear-resistant synthetic resin paint film. It is neither self-igniting nor combustion-supporting and is also stain-resistant. Suitable for homes, offices, or commercial facilities. 
12. High-Density Flooring 
    : A high-density modular flooring has been introduced to the UK market. It uses high-tech fiber materials, made from multiple layers of different functional materials under high temperature and pressure. After adding a protective layer, decorative layer, and polyester spray coating, its surface is sturdy and durable, not easily worn, and has the texture of natural wood. It can also be assembled with different patterns. 
Interior Wall Decoration Materials: 
Wallpaper 
1. Paper-based wallpaper: 
    This is the earliest type of wallpaper. The surface can be printed with patterns or embossed. The base has good breathability, allowing moisture in the wall substrate to dissipate outwards, preventing discoloration and bubbling. However, its performance is poor; it is not water-resistant, difficult to clean, and inconvenient to install, but it is inexpensive. Currently, it is rarely produced. 
2. Textile wallpaper: 
  This is a higher-end type of wallpaper. It is mainly woven from fibers such as silk, wool, and hemp. It has a good texture and good breathability. Using it to decorate a room gives a sense of elegance, softness, and comfort. Non-woven wallpaper is a high-grade decorative material made from natural fibers such as cotton and linen, or synthetic fibers such as polyester and acrylic, through non-woven molding, resin coating, and printing of colorful patterns. Its characteristics include crispness, tear resistance, elasticity, a smooth surface with a cashmere-like feel, vibrant colors, elegant patterns, resistance to fading, breathability, and washability. Brocade wall coverings are an even higher grade, with elegant and delicate patterns woven into the satin surface, vibrant colors, and a soft texture. The technical and craftsmanship requirements for application are very high, resulting in a higher price. They are mostly used for high-end interior decoration. 
3. Natural material wallpaper. 
  This type of wallpaper is made from natural plants such as grass, hemp, wood, and leaves; some are also made from thin slices of precious tree species. Its characteristics include a simple and natural style, rich in atmosphere. 
4. Plastic wallpaper 
  . This is currently the most widely produced and used type of wallpaper. It is made with a base paper with certain properties as the base layer and a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film as the surface layer, through processes such as lamination, printing, and embossing. Plastic wallpaper is divided into ordinary wallpaper and foamed wallpaper, each with several varieties. 
  Ordinary wallpaper uses 80K/m2 paper as the base material, coated with about 100K/m2 PVC resin, and then printed and embossed. It includes single-color embossing, printed embossing, glossy embossing, and matte embossing, and is the most commonly used wallpaper. Foamed wallpaper uses 100K/m2 paper as the base material, coated with 300-400K/m2 PVC paste resin mixed with a foaming agent, and then printed and heated to foam. This type of wallpaper includes high-foaming printed, low-foaming printed, and foamed printed varieties. High-foaming wallpaper has elastic embossed patterns on the surface, with effects such as wood grain, patchwork, and imitation ceramic tiles. The patterns are realistic, with a strong sense of the subject, and good decorative effect, suitable for interior wainscoting, living room, and corridor decoration. 
5. Fiberglass wallpaper 
  , also known as fiberglass wall covering, is a new type of wall decoration material using medium-alkali fiberglass as the base material, coated with wear-resistant resin, and then printed with colored patterns. Its characteristics include vibrant colors, colorfastness, non-deformation, non-aging, fire resistance, washability, simple construction, and easy pasting. 
6. Temperature-Regulating Wallpaper: 
  American experts have recently developed a temperature-regulating wallpaper that releases heat when the indoor temperature exceeds 2°C. This temperature-regulating wallpaper has three layers: the inner layer against the wall is an insulation layer that isolates the cold wall; the middle layer is a special regulating layer made of chemically treated fibers that absorbs and stores heat; the outer layer is aesthetically pleasing with numerous pores and decorative patterns. 
II. Soft Silk Fiber Wallcovering – A New Fashion in Interior  Decoration:
  Soft silk wallcovering is made from natural materials such as quartz sand, soda, lime, and dolomite. It is non-toxic, odorless, and beneficial to health. This wallcovering prevents the growth of microorganisms or parasites and is static-free, thus avoiding allergic reactions; the surface has a warm and comfortable feel; the open gaps in the fabric structure facilitate the natural dissipation of water vapor, greatly promoting indoor air regulation, making it a new type of green and environmentally friendly material. 
  Soft silk wall coverings can withstand highly destructive forces; even strong disinfectants, acid and alkali corrosion, and even fire cannot damage them. This is its unique property. Secondly, it has high chemical stability, is non-flammable, mildew-proof, and colorfast, and stains on the wall can be wiped clean at any time. Due to its good toughness, it effectively prevents wall cracking, earning it the nickname "tear-proof wallpaper." Its uniquely patterned designs also offer some sound absorption. It is durable, with a lifespan of over 15 years. 
  Soft silk fiber wall coverings can meet the needs of different decorating styles, providing designers with extraordinary creative space. Installation is easy, suitable for all surfaces: concrete, brick walls, plasterboard, particleboard, wood panels, ceramic, etc. For redecoration, simply apply paint to the original surface. 
Wall Decoration Materials 
I. Coatings 
1. Singapore-made HIPAC Advanced Building Elastic Waterproof Exterior Wall Coating HIPAC W810 is a unique dimerized liquid synthetic rubber. Applying it forms a highly elastic, waterproof, and UV-resistant colored film that adheres tightly to the building surface. It is a surface coating for walkable areas, providing strength and slip resistance. 
W820 is a single-component, non-toxic liquid synthetic rubber. After application, it forms a strong, durable, and elastic waterproof coating film on the building surface. 
W830 is a special fiber-reinforced synthetic rubber waterproof coating that can be used on any surface frequently exposed to sunlight and water accumulation. 
W840 is a super-elastic trimer waterproof coating based on a unique polymerized rubber compound. It is a specially formulated waterproof and algae-resistant elastic coating for the exterior walls of brick walls. 
2. Canadian Super Special Waterproof, Thermal Insulation, Heat Insulation, and Sound Reduction Coating: 
  Canadian Super Special #SSC-909 liquid water-based coating is suitable for metal roofs and concrete surfaces. Its unique proprietary formula allows for easy application to any sloping or irregular roof surface, providing long-lasting waterproof protection. 
3. Japanese-Developed Smart Coating: 
  This smart coating developed in Japan can be applied to houses or airplanes. When structural problems occur, the coating will alert people. It is made from a mixture of epoxy resin and powdered piezoelectric ceramic. After being applied to the surface of a house or other object, electrodes are placed on both sides of the resin layer of the coating, which will emit electronic signals. This coating is a new type of coating developed based on the phenomenon of electron polarization generated by matter under mechanical stress. 
4. Flame-retardant, Waterproof, and Washable "Simulation Coating": 
  This coating is made by adding hydrochloric acid and caustic soda to an aqueous solution mainly composed of polyvinyl alcohol, stirring to dissolve, and then adding ethylene glycol, mica powder, pearlescent pigments, etc., and mixing thoroughly. By adding other different pigment combinations, various colored "simulation" coatings can be made. Its characteristics include flame retardancy, water resistance, and washability. It is manufactured by the Loudi New Building Materials Chemical Research Institute in Hunan Province. 
5. "Kuai Tu Mei" Elastic Natural Coating 
  : Recently, a new type of interior and exterior wall decorative coating—"Kuai Tu Mei" elastic natural coating—has appeared on the market. Experts predict that the emergence of this coating will bring about a revolution in the decoration field, ushering in a new era of natural, environmentally friendly, textured coatings, moving away from the era of smooth, synthetic wall coatings. This natural type of coating has significant advantages. 
  It is a mature European product, and its durability, reliability, and service life are more than twice that of synthetic coatings. It is tough, tensile and flexural, and does not crack, peel, flake, or mold. The coating thickness is over 1.5mm, which is 10-15 times that of latex paint. Therefore, it has strong heat insulation, thermal insulation, and sound insulation functions. It can absorb moisture when the air is humid and release moisture when it is dry, making it a functional material that automatically regulates indoor temperature. It can be applied to any wall surface, such as cement, lime, tile, wood, iron, glass, plastic, and foam. It can be applied using three methods: spraying, scraping, and rolling. 
6. New High-Grade Exterior Wall Coating  :
  This coating is a water-based exterior wall coating made by Changchun Chaoyang District New Decoration Materials Factory using a synthetic adhesive of four substances, with added additives, colorants, and fillers. It has good application effects and can be applied in one coat. It features scrub resistance, high UV resistance, is not easily polluted, is non-toxic, and does not chalk, making it a promising exterior wall coating. 
7. Green Wall Coating: 
  This green wall coating is a TX elastic putty developed by Beijing Jiayue Coatings Co., Ltd. It belongs to the category of eco-friendly and healthy wall materials with high technological content. Its characteristics include high compressive, flexural, and tensile strength, good impermeability, and water resistance. The surface will not crack after application, and it retains a certain degree of flexibility after curing, making it popular in the construction and decoration industries. 
8. "Flavive"—A New Breakthrough in Coating Research. 
  Xi'an Jialian Chemical Enterprise's high-tech product, the room-temperature curing fluoropolymer "Flavive," has won high praise from industry professionals for its superior performance, wide range of applications, and high added value. Its successful development signifies that China's coating industry has reached international advanced levels, breaking the monopoly of the United States and Japan in the field of fluoropolymer coatings. This resin possesses excellent weather resistance and corrosion resistance, cures at room temperature, can be brushed or sprayed, is easy to operate, and has a wide range of applications. Its greatest characteristic is its strong adhesion, high film strength, and resistance to abnormal gases and extreme climatic conditions. It has excellent surface decoration and anti-corrosion properties, remaining bright and new even decades later. Besides buildings, this coating is widely used in shipbuilding, aviation, petroleum, vehicles, bridges, ports, containers, highways, and chemical corrosion protection. It is suitable for surface decoration and protection of steel, aluminum, plastics, wood, composite materials, cement, and other substrates. Previously, China relied entirely on imports, which were extremely expensive. However, domestically produced fluoropolymer coatings are comparable to foreign products, but at only half the price. 
9. A satin-gold luminescent coating: 
  To enrich the interior walls of residences and entertainment venues with vibrant colors, a satin-gold luminescent coating has been developed domestically. The water-based component of the coating is a salt produced through acid-base neutralization. The coating contains 600-mesh powder and 80-600-mesh powder. In the dark, the coated surface emits a soft glow, and under ultraviolet green light, it changes color and glows, displaying a seven-color radiance. The coating is flame-retardant, non-toxic, washable, and low-cost. 
II. Paints 
1. Environmentally friendly polyester paint: 
  The Ausstar 2000 advanced environmentally friendly polyester paint, developed by the Xi'an Modern Chemical Research Institute, has passed expert evaluation hosted by the Shaanxi Provincial Science and Technology Commission and the Provincial Ordnance Industry Bureau, and has immediately entered standardization and production. The polyester and polyurethane paints produced by the institute have excellent performance and unique style, creating the Ausstar series brand. Ausstar 2000 polyester paint is produced using advanced equipment and imported raw materials. The product boasts superior performance, high solids content, excellent fullness, strong adhesion, heat and wear resistance, high temperature resistance, and easy maintenance. It also features long-lasting color, excellent gloss and color retention, and will not change color over time. It is non-toxic, has little odor, and poses no adverse effects on the human body after drying and forming a film. It is an ideal coating for architectural decoration and has a broad market prospect.

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title:
How to Design a Beautiful Bathroom:
  In modern life, the bathroom is not only a place for convenience and washing away dirt, but also a place to relax, rejuvenate, and rejuvenate. Therefore, the design of the space, equipment, materials, colors, lines, and lighting should not be overlooked to achieve the best effect. 
Bathroom Material Selection: 
  Bathroom design is primarily based on convenience, safety, ease of cleaning, and aesthetics. Due to the high humidity in bathrooms, interior decoration materials must be primarily waterproof. The walls and ceiling occupy the largest area, so materials that are waterproof, corrosion-resistant, and mildew-resistant should be chosen to ensure hygiene. Tiles, reinforced panels, and waterproof plastic wallpaper all meet these requirements. Natural stone such as marble has a unique texture, but it may not be suitable for small bathrooms.
  For flooring, natural stone is superior to ceramic tiles in terms of both aesthetics and durability; large ceramic tiles are easy to clean and keep dry; and plastic flooring is highly practical, with added studs enhancing its anti-slip properties. Currently, most families use non-slip, wear-resistant tiles in various patterns and colors, and choose different tile sizes depending on the space, such as 300mm x 300mm, 200mm x 300mm, and 200mm x 200mm. Square or rectangular decorative tiles are used on the walls, complemented by border tiles, patterned tiles, and baseboards to enhance the overall aesthetics. PVC wall panels can also be used, offering a simple and elegant look with subtle patterns.
Bathroom
  ceilings can be made from various materials depending on the design. For example, flat ceilings can use PVC panels, aluminum panels, or aluminum composite panels, with a light steel frame. Dome-shaped or other artistic ceilings can use softer waterproof boards, flexible boards, or aluminum composite panels, or be further decorated with various colored glass accents.
  In terms of ceiling height, bathrooms in developed countries are generally lower, while in many domestic residences, the bathroom ceiling height is the same as other rooms. Therefore, to avoid a feeling of emptiness and coldness, the ceiling height is generally designed between 2.2 meters and 2.4 meters. When the bathroom area exceeds 8 square meters, consider installing a vanity cabinet above the sink, hanging a storage box further away from the water source, or designating a specific area for daily changing.
The color scheme of a
  bathroom is a combination of wall and floor materials, along with lighting.
  Cool colors that evoke a sense of cleanliness are best for bathrooms, ideally paired with similar or analogous colors, such as light gray tiles, a white bathtub, a cream-colored sink, and pale yellow walls. Alternatively, clear and simple warm colors can be used, such as off-white, ivory, or rose red walls, complemented by similarly colored, simply patterned flooring. Under soft, diffused lighting, this not only makes the space feel more open and warm but also more elegant and clean, creating a refreshing and soothing atmosphere. Black paired with gold represents mystery and nobility; adding glass, marble, and mirrors, with the light scattering starlight, creates a dazzling and impressive effect. In addition, the bold use of black and white in the bathroom creates a clear, simple, and clean look, while green plants add a touch of life.
Bathroom fixture selection:
  A typical family bathroom includes a toilet and shower (in most homes, these are combined). It can be roughly divided into three parts: the sanitary ware area, the shower area, and the face-washing/beauty area. Each area is closely connected yet functionally distinct.
  First, when choosing a toilet, determine the bathroom's drainage method: is it bottom-drain or back-drain? If it's bottom-drain, measure the distance from the drain outlet to the wall and choose a toilet accordingly; otherwise, even the best toilet won't be fully utilized. Secondly, consider drainage performance. Toilet performance is reflected in flushing cleanly, water conservation, and quiet operation. There's a misconception about "flushing cleanly," with people thinking that simply flushing the toilet bowl is enough. Flushing cleanly actually has two meanings: first, flushing out of the toilet bowl; second, flushing out of the drain pipe. Both are necessary for a thorough clean. Water conservation and quiet operation are highly sought after, making these products very popular. When choosing a toilet, you should mainly consider the drainage method, pipe location, internal structure, and toilet accessories. Currently, the main drainage methods for toilets are siphon and flush. Siphon toilets use the difference in water level between the overflowing drain pipe and the water seal to create suction and flush; flush toilets use the impact force of the water flow to flush away waste in one go. There's a trade-off here: flush toilets are more water-efficient than siphon toilets, but they are noisier; one-piece toilets are quieter than two-piece toilets, but they handle more waste. Finding the best balance between the two is key to your choice.
  Currently, the main types of washbasins on the market are countertop basins and pedestal basins. They are functionally identical, differing only in form. Countertop basins are suitable for larger bathrooms, giving a grand and imposing look; pedestal basins are suitable for smaller bathrooms, appearing delicate and elegant. For bathtubs, acrylic tubs are preferred because they are lightweight, have low thermal conductivity, are easy to clean, have a good feel, and are more ergonomically designed, but they are more expensive than steel tubs.
  The glaze is both the face and the inner quality of sanitary ware. Good sanitary ware has a smooth, even glaze, strong acid and alkali resistance, low water absorption, does not retain dirt, and is easy to clean, making it a favorite among housewives. Choosing the right glaze requires skill and a discerning eye. The style and color of the sanitary ware are entirely a matter of personal preference. White sanitary ware is clean and bright; black and white sanitary ware exudes youthful vitality; and colorful sanitary ware highlights individuality and style. Rustic, elegant, simple, and avant-garde styles fully embody a new concept of living; lifestyle and personalization are no longer the exclusive domain of living rooms and bedrooms.
  When choosing hardware to match the sanitary ware, prioritize quality over appearance. Good faucets use ceramic core valves that are tightly integrated with the casing, ensuring durability. Choosing these faucets relies on feel; be cautious about buying those that feel stiff or rough. Remember to ask for a certificate of conformity and warranty when purchasing.
  Generally, if you follow the above points, your bathroom fixture selection will be basically satisfactory. Of course, the harmony between the fixtures and the wall and floor tiles is also crucial; only then will your bathroom feel comfortable. Regarding
bathroom lighting and appliances
  , incandescent bulbs are generally suitable for general lighting, providing sufficient soft brightness. However, a separate light fixture must be installed near the vanity mirror for supplemental local lighting. Fluorescent bulbs can be used for this task to enhance the feeling of warmth, spaciousness, and freshness. When choosing bathroom light fixtures, opt for reliable waterproof and safe glass or plastic sealed fixtures. You can choose the style of the light fixtures according to your interests and preferences, but avoid installing too many or too low fixtures to prevent clutter or accidents such as splashing or collisions.
  At the same time, pay special attention to the bathroom's ventilation equipment and appliances. Economical exhaust fans are a good option for ventilation. When using bathrooms with water heaters, take precautions to prevent gas leaks. Furthermore, all power switches and sockets in the bathroom must be located outside the shower area to prevent electrical leaks due to moisture and avoid accidents.
Bathroom Decorating Tips:
  Install Stainless Steel Sheets at the Bottom of Door Frames to Prevent Corrosion. Bathroom doors are often exposed to dry or humid environments, causing the bottom of the door frame to rot unnoticed. Therefore, consider removing the damaged section, repairing it properly, and then installing stainless steel sheets around the door frame to slow down or prevent rot.
Install Mirrors on Cabinet Doors. Bathrooms often have built-in cabinets for storing toiletries. Installing mirrors on the cabinet doors not only makes the bathroom feel more spacious and bright but also adds a touch of luxury and aesthetics at a reasonable cost. It can even be combined with a dressing table to serve as a vanity mirror. Install
  Shower Heads on Washbasins. People are used to washing their hair and showering at night, often leaving their hair messy after a night's sleep. As more people, especially women, are washing their hair in the morning, installing shower heads on washbasins can be inconvenient, as using a shower every time can be troublesome.
  A 10cm wide shelf can be installed around the washbasin. Placing many cleaning and hygiene products on the washbasin looks cluttered and is easily knocked over. Therefore, consider installing a 10cm wide shelf around the washbasin, just large enough to hold cosmetic bottles, brushes, and wash cups. The shelf height should not obstruct the use of the faucet. Shelf materials can include wood or plastic.
  A recessed niche can be made in the wall around the bathtub to store toiletries. Using the same tiles as the wall around the bathtub, this niche can be used to store toiletries. This expands the usable space and makes it more convenient to use.
  Handrails should be installed for the elderly and patients. For the elderly, patients, or people with disabilities, bending over and standing are difficult. Therefore, having something to support them will be a great help. Installing handrails on the wall next to the toilet will help them use the toilet.
  Utilizing the space above the toilet flush tank: The space above the toilet flush tank, which is often inaccessible during use, can be used to install a wall-mounted cabinet. This cabinet can store toilet paper, hand towels, detergents, feminine hygiene products, etc. The lower part can be made open to display decorative plants.
Bathroom safety:
  Because bathrooms are generally small, poorly lit, and damp, extra care needs to be taken when decorating and furnishing them:
Floor: Pay attention to waterproofing and slip resistance.
  For bathroom flooring, it's best to use non-slip tiles with raised patterns. These tiles not only have good waterproofing properties but also remain non-slip even when wet.
  For bathroom walls, it's best to use wall tiles that match the floor tiles to create a unified style.
Ceiling: Moisture prevention and concealment are paramount.
  When decorating the bathroom ceiling, you need to prevent water vapor, so it's best to use waterproof PVC panels. These panels can be installed on the joists and also conceal pipes.
Sanitary ware: Choose the most suitable option
  . There are many types of sanitary ware available; select the one that best suits your needs. If your bathroom is small and the water pressure is unstable, there's no need to choose a large whirlpool bathtub. The location of the water inlet and outlet can also influence your choice of bathroom fixtures. Therefore, it's best to consult a designer to avoid wasting money.
Electrical Wiring: Safety First
  . Bathrooms are humid, so be extra careful when installing lights and wiring. Use light fixtures and switches with safety features. Connections and plugs should not be exposed.
Lighting: Bright is Key.
  Waterproof fluorescent wall lamps or explosion-proof incandescent pendant lights are generally suitable for bathrooms. Slightly stronger illumination is better to compensate for insufficient natural light.
Greenery: Add Life
  . Bathrooms shouldn't be forgotten corners. You can choose some shade-tolerant, moisture-loving potted plants to place in the bathroom, adding life and reducing the coolness.
How to Choose a Residential Central Air
Conditioning System: Cabinet Types and Classifications.
Residential central air conditioning systems offer the advanced and luxurious features of traditional central air conditioning while reducing the bulky and complex facilities. They are easy to install, aesthetically pleasing, and suitable for multi-room homes, duplexes, and villas. Currently, there are three
types of residential central air conditioning
systems on the market: 1) water systems with small chiller coils; 2) ducted air systems using air ducts; and 3) inverter-driven multi-unit split-type air conditioning systems. The first two types are products of miniaturization and redesign, with specifications and parameters based on relevant standards and regulations. The last type is a simplified version of commercial inverter air conditioning systems, and its design and installation are carried out according to the manufacturer's specifications and requirements.
Residential Central
Air Conditioning Features: Ductless System, Chiller System, Multi-Split Inverter System,
Outdoor Unit, Fixed-Frequency or Inverter Compressor, Fixed-Capacity Compressor, Inverter Compressor
Indoor Unit (Same number of compressors as outdoor unit), One unit per room, One
indoor unit per room, Ceiling-mounted, Concealed, Surface-mounted or Concealed
Indoor Installation, Indoor unit connected to ductwork to air outlets in each room, Water pipes connected to fan coil units in each room, Refrigerant pipes connected to indoor units in each room,
Interior Decoration, Indoor unit ceiling-mounted outside the hallway, ductwork decorated or partially decorated, Fan coil units installed in the ceiling of each room, partial or full ceiling installation, Surface-mounted only requires decorative treatment of copper pipes; Concealed installation same as above, Indoor Noise:
Noise only below the indoor unit, no noise in other rooms, No noise from fan coil units in each room, No noise from indoor units in each room,
Individual room temperature control, Yes, Yes, Yes
, Area temperature control accuracy, Generally high, High, High
capacity, Adjustment range, Large, Large, General
air flow, Entire residence or area, Each room,
Fresh air in each room, Can be added, No, No
heating, Can be equipped with electric or hot water coils. Direct connection to hot water source; no installation period ; maintenance required: 
1-2 days, 1-2 weeks, 2-5 days. Same maintenance requirements as split-type units. Pay attention to drainage and freeze protection in winter. Professional maintenance and repair . Factors to consider when purchasing a residential central air conditioning system: 1. Choose a home furnishing market with good customer satisfaction or reliable after-sales service . 2. Compare prices from multiple vendors. For the same model and brand, consider quality, price, and service. 3. Function selection: When purchasing a central air conditioning system, consider its functions, such as simultaneous heating, ventilation and humidification, filtration and dust removal, and air purification and sterilization. 4. Decoration: Since the installation of the residential central air conditioning system comes first, followed by decoration work, the decoration plan must be determined during installation. While ensuring the air conditioning effect, the installation location of the indoor unit and the duct routing must be determined. Generally, the indoor unit is installed in a partial suspended ceiling outside the corridor. The ductwork can be concealed using a partial suspended ceiling. Then, the size and location of the exposed air supply and return vents are determined. Due to the generally low ceiling height of residential buildings, side-mounted air vents are commonly used. To ensure effective airflow, double-layered louvered vents are typically used, installed on walls or partitions. The vents are generally flat; for top-mounted airflow, square diffusers are usually used, with the bottom surface of the diffuser attached to the ceiling. 5. Heating: Under normal circumstances, it is not recommended to combine heating and air conditioning in single-family homes. There are two reasons for this: First, heating must be continuous throughout the entire heating season without interruption, and air conditioning systems require uninterrupted power and water supply, otherwise the system will shut down. Even when no one is living there, a minimum level of heating must be maintained to prevent indoor freezing. Second, individual household heating places higher demands on equipment; any malfunctions must be resolved quickly. Only if the user or property management has the maintenance capabilities can uninterrupted heating be guaranteed. Therefore, the best scenario is for the property management to provide centralized heating or hot water to ensure uninterrupted operation and avoid adverse consequences. 6. Installation Authorization: To ensure installation quality and future performance, only companies authorized by the manufacturer are authorized to install the corresponding residential central air conditioning system. Special note: System warranty and main unit warranty are not the same thing. Air conditioner manufacturers guarantee the performance of the unit, while system effectiveness is guaranteed by proper design and installation. Therefore, the most important factor when choosing a residential central air conditioning system is to choose a reputable and experienced company and sign a contract. 7. System Acceptance: System functionality depends 30% on reasonable design, 20% on the quality of the air conditioning unit, and 50% on installation quality. Since the units are mostly concealed, a system acceptance test must be conducted after installation to ensure optimal performance. 8. After installation, don't forget to request a warranty certificate. 9. The invoice and contract must clearly state the brand, specifications, quantity, price, and total amount of the residential central air conditioning system. 10. Know the name, address, contact person, and telephone number of the organizer and manufacturer so that you can contact them promptly to resolve any quality issues. Installation Tips: ① Unit Selection: It's better to err on the side of larger rather than smaller. The idea that fewer residents and fewer rooms allow for a lower-spec air conditioner model is incorrect. ② Outdoor Unit Location: Ensure the outdoor unit is placed in a well-ventilated location. Poor ventilation will significantly affect the air conditioning capacity. ③ Indoor unit location: Generally, avoid placing it on the ceiling of the bathroom or kitchen. If it must be placed there, a proper return air plan must be developed to prevent return air from the bathroom or kitchen. ④ Indoor unit should have an access panel for future maintenance. ⑤ Air outlet location: Choose an air outlet location that ensures proper airflow throughout the air-conditioned area. ⑥ Air outlet size: Ensure the air outlet size is adequate; an oversized outlet will negatively impact air conditioning performance. On-site sales of residential central air conditioning brands include Trane, Haier, York, Midea, McQuay, Huizhong, Daikin, Renault, Huikang, Senbao, Ariston wall-hung boilers, Tsinghua Tongfang, Carrier, Fuller, TICA, Electrolux, etc. How to choose PVC windows:   PVC windows are the fourth generation of new windows developed in recent years after wooden windows, steel windows, and aluminum alloy windows. They are made primarily of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and chlorinated polyethylene blended resin, with a certain proportion of additives, and processed through extrusion. To increase the rigidity of the profiles, steel reinforcement (stiffeners) is filled into the inner cavity of the plastic profiles to enhance tensile and bending resistance. Then, through cutting, drilling, and welding, the window frame is manufactured, hence the name PVC window.  PVC windows   not only possess the characteristics of plastic products but also have significantly improved physical and chemical properties and anti-aging capabilities. Their decorative appeal is comparable to aluminum alloy windows, and they also have heat insulation and thermal insulation properties, making the room more comfortable, quiet, and modern. Furthermore, they have advantages such as acid and alkali resistance, corrosion resistance, dustproofing, flame retardancy and self-extinguishing, high strength, non-deformation, and harmonious color. They do not require anti-corrosion paint, are durable, and their airtightness and watertightness are 2-5 times greater than that of ordinary similar doors and windows. PVC window opening   methods mainly include sliding, outward opening, inward opening, and inward opening top-hung, with a newer type being the sliding top-hung type. Different opening methods each have their own characteristics. Generally speaking, sliding windows have advantages such as a simple and beautiful facade, flexible use, safety and reliability, long service life, high light transmission, small footprint, and convenient installation of screens. Outward-opening windows have advantages such as a large opening area, excellent sealing, ventilation, heat insulation, and water resistance. Currently, sliding windows are more commonly used, followed by outward-opening windows. Factors to consider when purchasing PVC windows:    1. Choose a home furnishing market with satisfactory consumers or reliable after-sales service.   2. Compare prices from multiple vendors. For the same style and brand of product, consider quality, price, and service comprehensively.   3. Choose the right profile. First, understand the PVC profile used in PVC windows. The PVC profile is the decisive factor in the quality and grade of PVC windows. Good PVC profiles should have multi-cavity design, thick walls, and contain anti-aging and UV-resistant additives in the formula. Visually, they should have a smooth surface and a bluish-white color. Mid- to low-grade window frames are yellowish-white. This color offers poor sun protection and will gradually yellow over time until it ages, deforms, and cracks. This is because the frame material contains too much calcium. Considering that most houses now have large windows (such as enclosed balconies) and many high-rise buildings, the wall thickness of the window frames should be greater than 2.5 mm, and the internal cavity should have a three-cavity structure (with a closed drainage cavity, an isolation cavity, and a reinforcement cavity). This ensures that the windows will not deform for decades. In addition, such frames are less prone to discoloration and aging.   4. Observe the surface of the PVC window for obvious scratches, grooves, and cracks at the welded corners.   5. For residences with high outdoor noise, it is best to choose PVC windows with double-glazed windows, which have excellent sealing and sound insulation effects.　   6. When the PVC window is closed, there should be no gap between the sash and the frame. Sliding PVC windows should slide smoothly with a soft sound and no dust falling off.   7. The frame of PVC windows should have steel frames. The glass should be installed flat and firmly without direct contact with the frame. If it is double-glazed, there should be no dust or moisture in the interlayer. All opening and closing parts should be tight and flexible.   8. When designing window types, the following order can generally be followed: A. Function; B. Practicality and aesthetics; C. Advanced design.   9. The invoice and contract must specify the name, specifications, quantity, price, and amount of the PVC windows.   10. Know the name, address, contact person, and telephone number of the organizer and manufacturer so that you can contact them in time to resolve any quality problems. How to choose paint: Paint classification : According to the different parts to be painted, paint is mainly divided into wall paint, wood paint, and metal paint. Wall paint includes exterior wall paint, interior wall paint, and ceiling paint, mainly latex paint, etc. Wood paint mainly includes nitrocellulose lacquer, polyurethane lacquer, etc. Metal paint mainly refers to enamel paint. According to the different diluents, paint can also be divided into water-based paint and oil-based paint. Latex paint is the main water-based paint, while nitrocellulose lacquer, polyurethane lacquer, etc. are mostly oil-based paints. Table 1. Environmental Indicators for Coatings | Item | Limit | Nitrocellulose Lacquer | Polyurethane Lacquer | Alkyd Lacquer | Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) (g/L) | ≤ 750 | Gloss (60°) | ≥ 80, 600 | Gloss (60°) | < 80, 700 | 550 | Benzene% | ≤ 0.5 | Total Toluene and Xylene% | ≤ 45 | 40 | 10 | Free Toluene Diisocyanate (TDI)% | ≤ 0.7  | Heavy Metals (Limited to Colored Paints) (mg/kg) | ≤ | Soluble Lead | 90 | Soluble Cadmium | 75 | Soluble Chromium | 60 | Soluble Mercury | 60 | Table 2. Environmental Indicators for Interior Wall Coatings | Limit | Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) (g/L) | ≤ 200 | Free Formaldehyde (g/kg) | ≤ 0.1 | Heavy Metals (mg/kg) | ≤ | Soluble Lead | 90 | Soluble Cadmium | 75 % soluble chromium, 60% soluble mercury. Factors to consider when purchasing paint: 1. Choose a home furnishing market with good customer satisfaction or reliable after-sales service. 2. Compare prices from multiple vendors. For products with the same packaging and brand, consider quality, price, and service. 3. Ask the seller for an environmental protection material testing report. 4. Choose paint according to the location of the decoration. For example, paint for interior walls should have good adhesion, a fine texture, and be free of chalking; paint for kitchens, bathrooms, and washrooms should be waterproof, mildew-proof, and easy to wash. 5. Choose paint according to the structure of the decoration. Different materials have different requirements for paint. For example, polymer-based water-based paints are preferred for concrete and cement mortar substrates; solvent-based paints are preferred for wood and metal substrates. 6. Pay attention to the use of auxiliary materials during construction, especially adhesives and primers. Even if you choose environmentally friendly paint, you cannot be careless in the substrate treatment. For example, 107 glue contains harmful substances, and relevant national regulations have explicitly prohibited its use in home decoration. 7. The product offers a wide selection of colors, with stable color and no color difference. 8. The shelf life of paint is generally two years. Some brands do not indicate the expiration date on the packaging, only the production date; careful inspection is necessary when purchasing. 9. The invoice and contract should clearly state the name, quantity, price, and amount of the paint. 10. Obtain the name, address, contact person, and telephone number of the organizer and manufacturer for timely resolution of any quality issues. Distinguishing Genuine from Fake Paint: 1. Examine the appearance: Good paint contains few impurities and forms milky white lines when stirred. 2. Examine the color: Good paint naturally has three layers: a soy sauce or liver-colored surface, a light yellow middle layer, and a grayish-white bottom layer; if it's all one color, it's fake paint. 3. Smell: Good paint has a fragrant or sour smell; if it has a rotten or other strange odor, it's spoiled or fake paint. Paint that doesn't dry for a long time, no matter how good the color, is still bad paint. Precautions for preventing paint poisoning during painting: The most effective way to prevent paint poisoning is to maintain good ventilation at the painting site to reduce the concentration of toxic and harmful substances in the air. If the ventilation at the painting site is poor, rest in a well-ventilated area for an indefinite period of time after painting. In addition, skin contact with solvent-based paints should be avoided as much as possible. Therefore, necessary labor protection measures should be taken when painting, such as wearing tight-fitting work clothes, gloves, masks, and protective glasses. Avoid direct skin contact with paint and direct inhalation of harmful gases into the respiratory system. After painting, tools and residual materials should be cleaned up in time, and paint cans should be sealed. Solvent cans should be covered, and waste cloths and scraps from wiping paint should be disposed of promptly. Avoid washing hands with toxic solvents (such as solvents with high benzene content), do not eat at the construction site, and wash hands and face with soap before meals or after work, and change work clothes. Prevention and Treatment of Common Paint Defects in Coating Projects | Phenomenon | Cause | Solution | | ---|---|---|---|---| | Dripping/Dripping | Drips of paint on vertical surfaces, forming teardrop-like or wavy appearance | ① Excessive application | ② Over-dilution | ③ Application on an unsanded smooth surface | ① Apply multiple coats to avoid excessive thickness in one coat | ② Reduce dilution ratio | ③ Sanding smooth surfaces before application | | Fine cracks form during paint drying | ① Too thick a coat | ② Applying topcoat before the primer is dry | ③ Using a high-elasticity primer | ④ Substrate cracking | ① Apply according to the normal dilution ratio | ② Allow the primer to dry properly before applying the topcoat | ③ Use a low-elasticity primer | ④ Use an elastic  paint | | Orange Peel | The coating forms an orange peel-like appearance after drying | ① Spray viscosity too high | ② Nozzle too far from the substrate | ③ Application temperature too high | ① Increase dilution ratio | ② Adjust to a suitable distance of 30cm | ③ Increase dilution ratio | | Peeling/Skinning | Coating detaches from the substrate | ① High humidity within the substrate | ② Inadequate surface preparation leading to poor coating adhesion | ③ Use of inferior primer | ① Solve wall leakage problems and ensure the wall is fully dry. ② Remove peeling and flaking coatings, perform normal surface treatment, and then apply paint. ③ Use a matching primer. Heavy brush marks and localized loss of gloss; uneven gloss after drying. ① Rough and uneven substrate. ② Over-dilution. ③ Excessive spraying pressure. ④ High alkalinity of the wall surface. ① Smooth the substrate and apply a layer of sealing primer. ② Reduce the dilution ratio. ③ Reduce air pressure. ④ Treat highly alkaline surfaces according to the surface treatment procedure. Heavy brush marks leaving paint marks after drying. ① Paint too thick. ② Inappropriate painting tools. ③ High ambient temperature and rapid substrate water absorption. ① Increase the dilution ratio. ② Use a soft brush and short-nap roller. ③ Increase the dilution ratio. Obvious seams leaving obvious overlap lines after brushing or rolling. ① Too large a coating area at one time. ② Paint dries too quickly. ① Reduce the area of ​​each coating. ② Increase the dilution ratio. Chalking: A layer of powder on the coating surface. ① Poor paint weather resistance. ② Untreated wall. ③ High application temperature. ④ Over-dilution. Clean away any powdery residue, apply an oil-based wall sealant primer, and then apply two coats of weather-resistant paint diluted to the correct ratio. On-site paint brands include Giraffe, Dafu, Valspar, Meilimen, Flügger, Stedan, Longpai, Dufa, Tuleshi, Hong Kong Camel Paint, American MELON'S, Bona, Taiwan Yijun, Changli, Hugong, Pitangwang, Japan Asahi, Huarun, Germany Oulon, Aimeijia, Dulux, Mowell, Xinbaita, Innor, Finncolor, Crocodile, Master, Red Lion, Xuanwei, Ai de, Carpoly, Nippon Paint, Jotun, Korea 777, Korea Fucheng, and Weishida Paint, etc. How to choose sanitary ware   : Sanitary ware refers to utensils used for washing or bathing in toilets, bathrooms, and kitchens, such as washbasins, toilets, bathtubs, and sinks. They are mainly made of ceramic, fiberglass, plastic, artificial marble (agate), and stainless steel. According to national environmental standards, the environmental protection indicators for sanitary ware products are classified into three categories based on the radioactivity levels of decorative materials:   1. Category A Decorative Materials: Decorative materials containing natural radioactive nuclides radium-226, thorium, 232, and potassium-40 whose specific activities simultaneously meet the requirements of 1Ra≤1.0 and 1r≤1.3 are classified as Category A decorative materials. The production, sales, and use of Category A decorative materials are unrestricted. 2. Category B Decorative Materials: Decorative materials that do not meet the requirements of Category A but simultaneously meet the requirements of 1Ra≤1.3 and 1r≤1.9 are classified as Category B decorative materials. Category B decorative materials cannot be used for interior finishes of Class I civil buildings, but can be used for exterior finishes of Class I civil buildings and for interior and exterior finishes of all other buildings. 3. Category C Decorative Materials: Decorative materials that do not meet the requirements of Categories A and B but meet the requirement of 1Ra≤2.8 are classified as Category C decorative materials. Category C decorative materials can only be used for exterior finishes of buildings and other outdoor uses. Note: Class I civil buildings include residences, senior apartments, nurseries, hospitals, and schools. Class II Civil Buildings: Such as shopping malls, stadiums, bookstores, hotels, office buildings, libraries, cultural and entertainment venues, exhibition halls, and public transportation waiting rooms, etc. Sanitary Ware Classification and Selection  1. Toilets ① Purchase should be determined based on actual conditions and personal preferences, such as the choice between one-piece or two-piece toilets, extended or standard toilets. ② Confirm whether the toilet's drainage is horizontally wall-mounted or floor-mounted. Ⅰ When a floor-mounted toilet is required: Clearly define the concept of wall distance, which refers to the distance from the center line of the toilet's drain to the finished wall surface. Ⅱ When a horizontally drained toilet is required: Clearly define the concept of floor distance, which refers to the distance from the center line of the toilet's rear drain outlet to the finished floor surface. ③ After selecting the toilet, be sure to purchase the matching water tank inlet pipe and angle valve. Many customers forget to purchase these matching products, leaving the installation work to the decorators, often resulting in leaking angle valves and causing losses for the consumer. Therefore, purchasing these matching products is very important. 2. Washbasins: ① The size and style of the washbasin should be chosen according to the actual area of ​​the bathroom. If the area is small, a pedestal basin is generally recommended, as it enhances the sense of ventilation in a small bathroom. If the area is large, a countertop basin is preferable, as it enhances the perceived quality of the product. Secondly, since bathroom fixtures are often designed and manufactured in series, the washbasin should be from the same series as the chosen toilet to reflect the product's superior quality. ② Faucets are a highlight of the washbasin series and provide the most direct and frequent experience for consumers throughout the entire usage process. When choosing a faucet, don't forget the requirements for the faucet valve core, as this is a crucial part of the faucet. Some faucets leak shortly after installation due to a substandard valve core; a good valve core should be ceramic. 3. Bathing Supplies: ① Bathtub Purchase: I. Bathtub Body: Bathtubs are generally made of three main materials: acrylic, steel, and cast iron. Acrylic bathtubs are quite common; they are rust-resistant, durable, and very lightweight. Acrylic bathtubs often have fiberglass reinforcement at the bottom for added support. Steel bathtubs are more robust and durable, often with a ceramic or enamel coating. Cast iron is a very wear-resistant material, but cast iron bathtubs have poor heat retention, cooling down quickly when filled with hot water. Choosing the right bathtub shape is important; it should support the back adequately, providing sufficient height and gentle support for the head and shoulders. II. Bathtub Faucets The choice of bathtub faucets mainly depends on the model series. Faucets are generally produced in series, with different series offering different styles. Furthermore, bathtub faucets come in wall-mounted and recessed styles; wall-mounted faucets are more suitable for home use. ② Shower Purchases Shower enclosures come in many specifications. When purchasing, consider the specific needs of your bathroom and personal preferences. Factors to consider when choosing sanitary ware: 1. Choose a home furnishing market with good customer satisfaction or reliable after-sales service. 2. Compare prices from at least three different vendors. For the same style and brand of goods, consider quality, price, and service. 3. Request environmental protection material testing reports from the seller. 4. The colors of the washbasin, toilet, and bathtub must be consistent, and their quality should coordinate with the colors of the bathroom floor and wall tiles. Generally, the colors of bathroom fixtures should be similar. The washbasin faucet and bathtub faucet should be from the same brand and style for a more harmonious look. 5. A common misconception when choosing a water-saving toilet is that a smaller tank means more water saving. In fact, whether a toilet is water-saving does not entirely depend on the size of the tank. It mainly depends on the design of the toilet's flushing and drainage system and tank accessories. Some toilets have very small tanks but poor flushing performance; others have relatively large tanks but a low water level, resulting in excellent flushing performance and water saving. 6. High-quality sanitary ware generally has a smooth glaze, free from color differences, pinholes, and glaze defects. Tapping the ceramic with a hard object produces a clear, resonant sound. When choosing sanitary ware, consider the elderly and children in the family; bathtubs should be equipped with grab bars and anti-slip features. 7. The invoice and contract must clearly state the name, specifications, quantity, price, and total amount of the sanitary ware. 8. Obtain the name, address, contact person, and telephone number of the organizer and manufacturer so that any quality issues can be addressed promptly. Bathroom Construction Inspection: After installation, the drainage pipes should be inspected. Pour several basins of water to check for blockages or poor water flow. During construction, some irresponsible teams may intentionally or unintentionally sweep sawdust, cement, etc., into the drainage pipes. Cement, in particular, quickly clumps and clogs the pipes. The construction team should only be allowed to leave if the pipes are clear and flowing smoothly. After the bathroom is completed, first check the bathtub for leaks. The method is to fill the bathtub with water and check; do not use just a little water. It's best to check as if it were in actual use to easily identify problems.在检查好有无滴漏后，再检查排水状况如何，如排水畅通说谎可完毕。驻场经营洁具品牌威宝、劳芬、汉斯格雅、高仪、美标、TOTO、科马、科勒、吉士多、卡西奥、乐家、阿波罗、贝朗、丹丽、澳丽斯、Inda、高陶、加枫、和成、英陶、金麦迪、天宝、丽莎、箭牌、法诺亚、波士顿、法恩莎、万斯顿、伊丽、四维、蓝梦、东鹏、晟昊、雅美、旭辉、佳陶、欧路莎、惠达等。  如何选购吊顶材料  吊顶是室内设计中经常采用的一种手法，人们的视线往往与它接触的时间较多，因此吊顶的形状及艺术处理很明显地影响着空间效果。  吊顶的环保指标  根据国家环保标准，吊顶材料放射性水平划分为三类：（主要适用于非金属、非有机物类吊顶材料，如石膏板等。）  1、A类装饰材料 装饰材料中天然放射性核素镭-226、钍-232、钾-40的放射性比活度同时满足1Ra≤1.0，1r≤1.3要求的为A类装饰材料。A类装饰材料产销与使用范围不受限制。  2、B类装饰材料 不满足A类装饰材料要求但同时满足1Ra≤1.3，1r≤1.9要求的为B类装修材料。B类装修材料不可用于1类发用建筑的内饰面，但可用于是类民用建筑的外饰面及其他一切建筑物的内、外饰面。  3、C类装饰材料 不满足A、B类装饰材料要求但满足1r≤2.8要求的为C类装修材料。C类装修材料只可用于建筑的外饰面及室外其用途。  注：Ⅰ类民用建筑：如住宅、老年公寓、托儿所、医院和学校等。　　     Ⅱ类民用建筑：如商场、体育场、书店、宾馆、办公楼、图书馆、文化娱乐场所、展览馆和公共交通等候室等。吊顶的分类、选购、安装、维护  吊顶材料主要有矿棉板、石膏板、木板、PVC塑料扣板、玻璃、金属等几种。  1、PVC塑料扣板  ①特点  它以PVC为原料，经加工成为企口式型材，具有重量轻、安装简便、防水防潮、防蛀虫的特点，它表面的花色图案变化也非常多，并且耐污染、好清洗、有隔音、隔热的良好性能，特别是新工艺中加入了阻燃材料，使其能离火即灭，使用更为安全。它成本低，装饰效果好，因此在家庭装修吊顶材料中占有重要位置，成为卫生间、厨房、盂洗间、阳台等吊顶的主导材料。  ②质量鉴定  选购PVC吊顶型材时，一定要向经销商索要质检报告和产品检测合格证。目测外观质量板面应平整光滑，无裂纹，无磕碰，能装拆自如，表面有汹涌无划痕；用手敲击板面声音清脆。检查测试报告中，产品的性能指标应满足：热收缩率小于0.3%，氧指数大于35%，软化温度摄氏度以上，燃点3000摄氏度以上，吸水率小于15%，吸湿率小于4%。  ③安装首先应在墙面弹出标高线，在墙的两端固定压线条，用水泥钉与墙面固定牢固。板材按顶棚实际尺寸裁好，将板材插入压条内，板条的企口向外，安装端正后，用钉子固定住，然后插入第二片板……最后一块板应按照实际尺寸裁切，裁切时使用锋利裁刀，用钢尺压住弹线切裁，装入时稍作弯曲就可插入上块板企口内，装完后两侧压条封口。  ④维护和更换PVC吊顶型材的耐水、耐擦洗能力很强。日常使用中可用清洗剂擦洗后，用清水清洗；板缝间易受油渍，清洗时可用刷子蘸清洗剂刷洗后，用清水冲净；注意照明电路不要沾水。PVC吊顶型材若发生损坏，更新十分方便，只要将一端的压条取下，将板逐块从压条中抽出，用新板更换破损板再重新安装，压好压条即可。更换时应注意新板与旧板的颜色需一样，不要有色差。  2、金属制品吊顶  金属制品吊顶指的是一种集多种功能、装饰性于一体的吊顶金属装饰板。与传统吊顶材料相比，除保持其特性外，质感、装饰感方面更优，可分为吸声板和装饰板（不开孔）。吸声板是根据声学原理，利用各种不同穿孔率的金属板来达到消除噪声，也型根据需要有圆孔、方孔、长圆孔、长方孔、三角孔、大小组合孔等不同孔型，底板大都是白色或铝色。另一种金属装饰板，特别注重装饰性，线条简洁流畅，造型美观，色泽优雅，有古铜、黄金、红蓝、奶白等颜色；规格恰好与普通住宅的宽度相吻全，与大理石、铝合金门窗等材料连接浑然一体，高雅华丽，为适静的居室环境锦上添花。  金属装饰板的材质种类有铝、铜、不锈钢、铝合金等，选择铜、不锈钢材料的装饰板档次较高，价格也高，一般的居室装饰，选择铝合金装饰板较合适，符合人们一般的购物心理，即物美价廉。规格方面有长方形、方形等，长方形板的最大规格有6000mm*100mm*0.5mm，一般居室的宽度约5m多，对较大居室的装修，选用长条形板材的整体性强；对小房间的装饰一般可选用500mm*500mm的。由于金属板的绝热性能较差，为了获得一定的吸音、绝热功能，在选择金属板进行吊顶装饰时，可以利用内加玻璃棉、岩棉等保温吸音的产品达到绝热吸音的功能。尤其是居住在顶层的居民，装饰后可改善室内环境，明显节约空调的能源消耗费用。  3、石膏板吊顶    石膏板是目前应用比较广泛的一类新型吊顶装饰材料，具有良好的装饰效果和较好的吸音性能，较常用的有浇筑石膏装饰板和纸面装饰吸音板。  浇筑石膏装饰板具有质轻、防潮、不变形、防火、阻燃等特点。并有施工方便，加工性能好，可锯、可钉、可刨、可粘结等优点。主要品种有：各种平板、花纹浮雕板、半穿孔板、全穿孔板、防水板等。花纹浮雕板适用于居室的客厅、卧室、书房吊顶；防水板多用于厨房、卫生间等湿度较大的场所。  纸面装饰吸音板具有防火、隔音、隔热、抗振动性能好、施工方便等特点。吊顶不平原因及预防  1、现象：吊顶出现不规则的波浪性  2、原因分析：  ①任意起拱，形成拱度不均匀。  ②吊顶周边格栅或四角不平。  ③木材含水率大，产生收缩变形。  ④龙骨接头不平有硬弯，造成吊顶不平。  ⑤吊杆或吊筋间距过大，龙骨变形后产生不规则挠度。  ⑥受力节点结合不严，受力后产生位移变形。  3、预防措施  ①吊顶木材应选用优质软质木材，如松木、杉木，其含水率应控制在12%以内。  ②龙骨应顺直，不应扭曲及有横向贯通断面的节疤。  ③吊顶方式应按设计标高在四周墙上弹线找平，装钉时四周以水平线为准，蹭接水平线的起拱高度为房间短向跨度的1/200，纵向拱度应吊匀。驻场经营地砖品牌  天龙、乐思龙、祺仕、现代、西飞、佳豪、优能、阳霸、爱丽思、新景等。如何选购防盗门  防盗门的主要功能是防盗，其次才是装饰美化作用。选购时要把重点放在察看防盗窃案性能和质量上。  防盗门的外观和构成  1、门的尺寸大小及开向  家用标准门一般有四种规格，由建筑洞口的宽度和高度组成的四位数字表示。例如：门洞的宽度为1米，高度为2.1米时，其规格称为1021，常用的规格有0920、0921、1020、1021等。门的开向分为内开门和外开门，内开门和外开门又分为左开和右开，用户可根据便于开门的方向来选择门的开向。  2、门的表面质量和安全性    合格的防盗安全门所使用的材料均符合国家标准要求，钢质防盗门的门框使用钢板的厚度不应小于2毫米，门扇的前后面板一般采用的钢板厚度在0.8-1毫米之间，门扇内部设有骨架和加强板，并起到一定的防破坏性能，并能达到国家标准要求的防盗级别。  3、五金件的安全性    ①防盗锁 防盗锁对门来说是最重要的部件，防盗锁性能的好坏直接关系到门的安全性，防盗门一般使用的有机械锁和电子锁。防盗锁选用时，要注意产品须经过国家指定权威机构的认证。防盗锁应具有防钻、防锯、防撬、防拉、防冲击、防技术开启的功能。防盗门上使用的锁具分为单点锁和多点锁，所谓的单点锁是指锁具通过锁本身的锁点将门锁闭。多点锁是指除自身外，同时带动副锁，形成多个锁点，并分布在门框四周，增强防撬性能。  防盗门使用的防盗锁锁舌（栓）其伸出长度，A级防盗门伸出长度应不小于14毫米，B级应不小于20毫米。防盗锁的外壳一般使用不小于2毫米厚的钢板或具用一定强度的材料制作，折边、开口处应焊牢或整体冲压成型。在主锁舌（栓）传动装置与锁身对应的关键部位，应有防钻钢板或防钻套等保护措施。  ②铰链 铰链是将门和门框相互连接的部件，主要起到支撑门体的作用，同时应具有一定的防盗功能。目前防盗门使用的铰链一般采用内置式和外置式铰链，内置式铰链适用于外开门，外置式铰链适用于内开门，对于内开门采用外置式铰链，其铰链轴直径一般大于12毫米，如果铰链采用钢板卷制其闭合边一定要焊接。选购防盗门时应考虑的因素  1、选择消费者满意或售后服务信得过的家居市场。　   2、要货比三家，对同一款式、同一品牌的商品，要从质量、价格、服务等方面综合考虑。  3、定做或者购买防盗门时，应该从已获得公安局面颁发的《生产许可登记证》的厂家购买合格的产品。  4、选型 查看厂家或者商家有无权威检验机构近期检验的合格检验报告，特别需留意检验报告上的生产批号与型号规格是否与实物上的相同。  5、防盗门必须有产品标记代号，内容包括  ①防盗安全门标志：FAM   ②安全级别：分A、B、C三级，其中C级防盗性能最高，B级其次，A级最低，其中A级比较适合一般家庭使用。  6、看材质是否厚实。钢门框的制作钢板，其厚度不应小于2mm。钢板表面处理光洁度高，无毛糙起泡，材质厚实的钢板敲打起来声质闷，掂量其重量，粗略断定其门扇是否为实心。  7、结构要合理。同时做式精细、焊点均匀致密。  8、打开和锁门时，锁具开启是否灵活。开门或关门时，门扇是否轻松，应无卡滞或与门框相碰并发出声响等现象。  9、门扇与门框的间隙是否过大或过小，正常的间隙应为：左侧、右侧和上侧间隙不大于3毫米，下侧为5毫米。  10、门扇与门框需装有防盗链，防盗链的安装是否牢固，把手是否转动灵活、牢固。  11、发票、合同上必须注明塑钢窗的名称、规格、数量、价格、金额。  12、了解主办单位及厂家的名称、地址、联系人、电话，以便发生质量问题能及时联系解决。驻场经营地砖品牌  霍曼、悦达、恩源、轩源、龙甲等。如何选购地板  木地板弹性好，不起灰，易清洁，不返潮，蓄热系数小，常用于起居室、卧室等。    一、木地板的种类主要有：实木地板、实木复合地板、强化地板等    1、实木地板：  实木地板是木材不拼、不接加工而成的地板块，有温暖柔和、自然宜人、隔音、脚感好等优点。  ①实木地板的分类  Ⅰ 根据加工外形不同，可分为平口地板（平接木地板）和企口地板（榫接木地板）。  Ⅱ 根据加工方法的不同可分为拼花地板和竖木材 板。  ②实木的识别  Ⅰ 纹理：是判定地板好坏的标准，有规则的纹理美观大方，不要选用那些纹理杂乱无章的地板。  Ⅱ颜色：优质的实木地板应有自然的色调、清晰的木纹，材质肉眼可见。如地板表面颜色深重，漆层较厚则可能是为掩饰地板的表面缺陷而有意为之，在地板为六面封漆时尤需注意。  Ⅲ裂痕：中、低档的地板有裂痕是难免的，但太大就不好了。有的裂痕产生于木材的纹理之间，这种裂痕不会延伸，可放心使用，但有的裂痕是穿透纹理的，则千万不能购买，因为这些裂痕会延伸，对今后有很大负面影响。  Ⅳ节子：即节疤，可分为活节和死节。作为天然制品是不可能没有节子的，活节的合理分布，反而会使木制品更美。优等品是不允许有缺陷的节子存在的，国家规定：凡直径≤3mm的活节子和直径≤2mm的且没有脱落、非常密型的死节子都不作为缺陷性节子。  另外，有的地板是采用树心材料和近树皮的材料制成的，谨防商家提等级标价。有的地板采用的木材被大量的虫蛀过，因而留有许多虫眼，这种地板的木质不是很好，购买时需慎重。  ③实木地板的选择  Ⅰ选材时要考虑居室的地面条件，例如平房或楼房底层，因直接接触地面，湿度大，应选用楸木、红松、白松地板，因这三种木材爱潮后不易变形。  Ⅱ由于全国各城市所处的地理位置不同，当地平衡含水率各不相同，在选择时应向专业销售人员咨询，以便能购买到含水率与当平衡含水率相均衡的地板（北京地区含水率在11%左右）。  2、实木复合地板：  实木复合地板的基材就是实木，因此除了甲醛释放量以外，其它类同于实木地板的选择。  甲醛释放量  我国国标规定，不大于1.5mg/L均符合国家标准，可向经营者索取测试数据，也可打开其中一包包装箱，把地板取出，把鼻子挨近地板，嗅其味，若闻到一股强烈刺鼻的甲醛味，则空气中甲醛浓度已超过标准。  3、强化木地板  强化复合木地板是以高、中密度纤维板为基材，表面由耐磨层、装饰纸等制成。作为新型节能铺地材料，它具有独特的优势。首先，强化复合木地板的主要原料来自于人工速成林、小径林、枝丫材，从保护森林资源的角度看，铺装它符合人类过热压强化处理，克服了实木器厂地板干缩湿胀的弱点，尺寸的稳定性也强于后者；其三强化复合木地板的图案、色彩、品种丰富、仿真性好，幅面磊；其四，强化复合木地板结构设计合理，安装简便快捷；其二，强化复合木地板无需打蜡、抛光等表面处理，保养简单，容易保洁；其六，它的表面光洁度和耐磨性能远远高于实木地板。  选择强化木地板时需注意以下几点：  ①甲醛释放量 我国国标规定，不大于1.5mg/L均符合国家标准  ②耐磨转数 家用复合地板的耐磨转数应≥6000转，公共场所应≥1万转，否则，在使用1-3年后就可能出现不同程度的破损。  ③花色品种 在能接受的价位之内选择到自己心仪的花色是最终目的，验货时留意有无花纹上的瑕疵。  二、木地板的选购、安装时需考虑的因素  1、选择消费者满意或售后服务信得过的家居市场。  2、要货比三家，对同一款式，同一品牌的商品，要从质量、价格、服务等方面综合考虑。  3、向商家索要产品环保材料检测报告。  4、发票、合同上必须注明地板的材质、规格、数量、价格、金额。  5、购买实木地板时，销售合同上须填写地板的正规学名，而不能是俗称，谨防有些商家以次充好，瞒天过海。比如，为提高地板等级和价格，以“子京木”冒充“红檀”来欺骗消费者。  6、铺地板前，消费者应及时验收地板的数量、质量、规格、花色、材质等是否与选购的要求一致。  7、原则上买谁家的地板就让谁家铺设，千万不要自行铺设，免得以后出现质量问题相互推诿责任，使您蒙受不必要的损失。  三、木地板保养  1、保持地板干燥、清洁、不允许用滴水的拖把拖地板，或用碱水、肥皂水擦地板，以免破坏油漆表面的光泽。  2、保持房间通风、严禁长时间紧闭门窗，以免地板起鼓变形。  3、尽量避免阳光暴晒，以免表面油漆长期在紫外线的照射下提前老化、开裂。  4、局部板面不慎染污应及时清除，若有油污，可用抹布蘸温水沾少量洗衣粉擦洗，若是药物或颜料，必须在污迹末渗入木质表层以前加以清除。  5、最好每三个月打一次蜡（强化木地板除外），打蜡前要将地板表面的污渍清理干净。经常打蜡，可保持地板的光洁度，延长地板的使用寿命。  6、避免尖锐器物划伤地面，尽量避免拖动沉重的家具。  7、建议在门口处放置蹬蹭垫，以防进尘料，损伤地板。驻场经营地砖品牌  强化木地板：圣象、欧典、瑞嘉、威泰克、柏丽、万宝龙、海帝、卢森、欧朗、四合、吉象、欧润、柏高、德全家、好益、得尔、欧陆家、银球等。  竹地板、实木复合地板：大音、亚普、江桥、韦化嘉禾、时空装饰板、润基软木等。    实木地板：安信、大自然、安达、森王、康温、林牌、欧汛、明成、宜华、恒益、金钢鹦鹉、飞鸽、富林、盛为、迪克、金桥、富得利、雅佳、丰盛、康隆等。

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title:
With increasingly taller buildings and more cars on the road, soundproofing interior 
  decoration has become a crucial issue. However, soundproofing isn't just a decoration problem; it also involves acoustics. To solve soundproofing problems, we need to identify the type of noise causing it and then use different methods accordingly.
What is noise? Simply put, any irregular sound can be considered noise. There are several main sources of urban noise: construction noise, which is intermittent; traffic noise, which has a longer-lasting impact; and everyday noise, such as noise from entertainment venues, mahjong, and music television. Among these, car noise is the most
difficult to deal with. Theoretically, addressing car noise can simultaneously solve everyday noise problems. Of course, low-intensity construction noise can also be addressed. However, the sound of pile driving is currently very difficult to control. Besides the requirement for them to stop work during designated times, we can't possibly decorate our homes to the soundproofing standards of a soundproofing room.
First, let's understand a basic concept: decibel. A decibel is a unit of sound pressure level (symbol: dB). For every doubling of sound pressure, the sound pressure level increases by 6 decibels. One decibel is the sound level that the human ear can barely hear. Sounds below 20 decibels are generally considered quiet; below 15 decibels is generally considered "dead silence." 20-40 decibels is roughly the sound of whispers between lovers. 40-60 decibels is the sound of normal conversation. Above 60 decibels is considered noisy; 70 decibels is considered very noisy and begins to damage the auditory nerve; above 90 decibels can cause hearing loss; and being in a space with 100-120 decibels, barring unforeseen circumstances, can cause temporary deafness in a human within one minute. Vehicle noise typically ranges from 80 to 100 decibels. For example, a car emitting 90 decibels of noise will still be heard at 81 decibels at a distance of 100 meters (these standards may vary depending on the environment and are not absolute values).
Traffic noise levels are influenced by several factors:
1. Higher traffic volume on nearby roads results in greater noise. Main roads are significantly noisier than municipal roads in residential areas.
2. Higher vehicle speeds on nearby roads result in greater noise. 
3. A higher proportion of heavy vehicles, such as container trucks, results in greater noise.
4. Lower road surface quality results in greater noise. Even with the same road surface quality, roads with speed bumps are noisier than those without.
5. The closer to the road, the greater the noise. When the same heavy truck passes by, a residence 5.5 meters above the road (straight-line distance) experiences a 0.3 decibel reduction at 10 meters, a 4 decibel reduction at 30 meters, a 6 decibel reduction at 50 meters, and an 8.9 decibel reduction at 100 meters.
6. At the same distance from the highway, the higher the floor of a typical residential building, the greater the noise. (Currently, there is no upper limit data, and it's possible that the noise level decreases at a certain height, but this is generally true given that most high-rise buildings are now 32 stories.) The idea that living higher away from noise means being away from it is incorrect.
7. Roads with sound barriers are quieter than those without.
8. Buildings that act as sound barriers have a less impact than those without.
To solve traffic noise, we need to understand the different types of car noise. Generally, they can be categorized as follows:
1. The sound of car tires rubbing against the ground. This sound is generally low-pitched and accompanied by vibration. This is especially noticeable on concrete roads compared to asphalt roads.
2. The sound of the car engine, exhaust pipe, and transmission system. The higher the horsepower and the longer the vehicle's lifespan, the stronger this type of noise.
3. The sound of the car horn, wind resistance, brakes, speed bumps, and vibrations caused by the impact of loads.
Knowing the main sources and classifications of noise allows us to address them one by one.
1. The best way to combat noise is to ensure windows are tightly sealed, regardless of whether they are single or double-glazed. Sealing is paramount. Just as a barrel's capacity is determined by its shortest stave, sound insulation is determined by its weakest link. Currently, using PVC windows is the most effective sealing solution. For those already using aluminum alloy windows, ensure the sealing strips on the frames are intact. Relatively speaking, aluminum alloy windows have poorer sealing than PVC windows. 
2. Once the window sealing is solved, the next step is to make it even more airtight. Sound insulation isn't just about sealing; it's about the sealing performance. Using double-glazed windows in PVC windows is a very effective method. The most noisy sounds are often high-frequency sounds, which travel in straight lines. Glass can reflect most of these sounds, and double-glazed windows can completely absorb the unreflected portion. However, be wary of unscrupulous vendors selling untreated double-glazed windows as double-glazed windows.
3. Using thick curtains to absorb some sound energy is a simple method, but not a very effective one. 
4. For low-to-mid-range vibrations and friction, we can use carpets, fabrics, or even sound-absorbing (insulating) cotton to reduce their impact on the room. Adding rubber pads to the foot of the bed can also reduce the feeling of vibration. Palm fiber mattresses are also better than spring mattresses, and of course, a hard bed board goes without saying.
5. Some houses now use lightweight bricks (hollow bricks) for the exterior walls. These materials have poor sealing properties. If you live near a road and the noise significantly affects you, you can install a layer of wood (light steel) and gypsum board filled with sound-absorbing (insulating) cotton on the wall facing the road, and then decorate the surface with wallpaper or other materials (or you can use ordinary wall paint).
6. Of course, no matter how much soundproofing you do, don't forget proper ventilation. A too-closed environment is also unhealthy for sleep. Protect the side facing the noise source, and maintain adequate ventilation on the side you don't face. However, "adequate" doesn't mean leaving the windows wide open, as noise reverberates and may affect buildings behind you and then return to your building. 
The above methods are specifically for dealing with roadside noise, but they are also effective for other types of noise. Generally speaking, traffic noise is the most prevalent type of noise, so solving traffic noise also solves other noise problems. Of course, noise from things like pile driving exists but is not a long-term issue; the only solution is to complain to agencies like the environmental protection bureau, as the intensity of pile driving is too great for ordinary soundproofing measures to prevent. In fact, we don't need to upgrade to the soundproofing standards of a soundproofing room just to prevent short-term noise. 
On the other hand, noise should also be considered when buying a house. Observe the noise environment of the house you want to buy at different times and determine the degree of impact based on your own circumstances. For example, since I mostly sleep late and wake up late, I would never choose a house near a school or a market because I don't like listening to the loudspeaker music for calisthenics and eye exercises. However, it doesn't matter for those who go to work early, because when the loudspeaker goes off, their family has already gone to work.

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title:
China has a long history of producing ceramic tiles, and the English word "China" itself means ceramics. Currently, the market offers a dazzling array of ceramic tile varieties. Let's take a look at some aspects of ceramic tiles and the relationships between them. 
  Keywords: Ceramic tiles, Interior design, Residential decoration.
  I. Glazed Tiles
  1. As the name suggests, glazed tiles are tiles whose surface has been glazed. Based on the raw materials, they can be divided into two types:
  1) Earthenware glazed tiles, made from clay, have a higher water absorption rate and relatively lower strength. Their main characteristic is a red back.
  2) Porcelain glazed tiles, made from porcelain clay, have a lower water absorption rate and relatively higher strength. Their main characteristic is a grayish-white back.
  It should be noted that the comparisons of water absorption rate and strength mentioned above are relative; currently, some earthenware glazed tiles have better water absorption and strength than porcelain glazed tiles.
  2. Glazed tiles can also be divided into two types based on their gloss:
  1) Glossy glazed tiles. Suitable for creating a "clean" effect.
  2) Matte glazed tiles. Suitable for creating a "fashionable" effect.
  3. Common Problems
  Glazed tiles are the most common type of tile used in decoration. Due to their rich colors and patterns and strong stain resistance, they are widely used on walls and floors. Common quality problems mainly fall into two categories:
  1) Cracking
  The root cause of cracking is that the stress between the body and the glaze layer exceeds the difference in thermal expansion coefficients between the body and the glaze. When the thermal expansion coefficient of the glaze is greater than that of the body, the shrinkage of the glaze during cooling is greater than that of the body. The glaze will be subjected to tensile stress. When the tensile stress exceeds the ultimate strength that the glaze layer can withstand, cracking will occur.
  2) Back seepage
  Regardless of the type of tile, water absorption is natural. However, when the body density is too loose, it is not just a matter of water absorption, but also a matter of cement seepage. That is, cement wastewater will seep to the surface.
  4. Commonly used square
  glazed tiles include 152×152mm and 200×200mm; rectangular glazed tiles include 152×200mm and 200×300mm, etc. Common glazed tile thicknesses are 5mm and 6mm.
  II. Through-body Tiles:
  Through-body tiles have an unglazed surface, and the material and color are consistent on both the front and back, hence the name.
  Through-body tiles are a type of wear-resistant tile. Although there are now varieties such as inlaid through-body tiles, their patterns are relatively less diverse than glazed tiles. Due to the increasing trend towards neutral colors in interior design, through-body tiles are becoming increasingly fashionable and are widely used for flooring in halls, corridors, and outdoor walkways. They are generally less used for walls, and most anti-slip tiles are through-body tiles.
  Common sizes for through-body tiles include 300x300mm, 400x400mm, 500x500mm, 600x600mm, 800x800mm, etc.
  III. Polished Tiles
  Polished tiles are a type of tile whose surface is polished to a high gloss. They belong to the category of through-body tiles. Compared to the rough surface of regular through-body tiles, polished tiles are much smoother. Polished tiles are hard and wear-resistant, suitable for most indoor spaces except bathrooms, kitchens, and other indoor environments. Using infiltration technology, polished tiles can achieve various stone and wood-like effects.
  Perhaps due to oversight or intentional design by the industry, polished tiles have a fatal flaw: they are easily stained. This is caused by the uneven pores left during polishing. These pores trap dirt and grime, making polished tiles extremely prone to getting dirty; even spilled tea is difficult to remove. Perhaps recognizing
  this, some high-quality polished tiles now come with an anti-stain layer at the factory. However, this anti-stain layer negates the through-body effect. To maintain the through-body appearance, the anti-stain layer must be applied again. In the decoration industry, there is also a practice of applying water-based wax before construction to prevent stains.
  Common sizes for polished tiles are 400x400mm, 500x500mm, 600x600mm, 800x800mm, 900x900mm, and 1000x1000mm.
  Fourth, vitrified tiles:
  To address the issue of polished tiles being prone to staining, a type of tile called vitrified tile has emerged on the market. Vitrified tiles are essentially fully vitrified porcelain tiles. Their surface is smooth but doesn't require polishing, thus eliminating the problem of polishing pores.
  Vitrified tiles are a reinforced type of polished tile, fired at high temperatures. They are harder and more wear-resistant than polished tiles. Unsurprisingly, their price is also higher.
  Vitrified tiles are mainly floor tiles, commonly available in sizes of 400x400mm, 500x500mm, 600x600mm, 800x800mm, 900x900mm, and 1000x1000mm.
  Fifth, Mosaic
  . Mosaic is a special type of tile, typically composed of dozens of small tiles forming a relatively large tile. It is widely used for small indoor walls and floors, as well as large and small outdoor walls and floors, due to its small size and vibrant colors. It is mainly divided into:
  1. Ceramic Mosaic. This is the most traditional type of mosaic, known for its small size, but it is relatively monotonous and of lower quality.
  2. Marble Mosaic. This is a mid-stage development type of mosaic, rich and colorful, but its poor acid and alkali resistance and waterproof performance have resulted in a less than stellar market response.
  3. Glass Mosaic. The vibrant colors of glass bring a lively feel to mosaics. Depending on the type of glass, it is further divided into several sub-categories:
  1) Fused glass mosaic. Made primarily from silicates, etc., melted and shaped at high temperatures, resulting in a milky or semi-milky appearance, containing a small amount of air bubbles and unmelted particles.
  2) Sintered glass mosaic. Made primarily from glass powder, with the addition of appropriate binders, pressed into green bodies of a certain size; then sintered at a certain temperature.
  3) Aventurine glass mosaic. Containing a small amount of air bubbles and a certain amount of metallic crystalline particles, exhibiting a distinct shimmering effect when exposed to light.
  4. Commonly used
  mosaic sizes: Commonly used mosaic sizes are 20×20mm, 25×25mm, and 30×30mm, with thicknesses ranging from 4mm to 4.3mm.
  There are also various other names for tiles on the market, but regardless of the name, they can generally be classified into one of the above categories.
  Below is an introduction to tile selection:
  When choosing tiles, besides color preference, other factors must be considered scientifically.
  First, take any four tiles from the box and place them on a flat surface. Then compare them: are the four tiles flat and uniform? Check if the diagonal edges of the tiles fit together. Next, tap the surface of the tiles with your palm and listen to the sound: good tiles have a deeper, more resonant sound; while bad tiles
  have a brighter sound with a noticeable echo. Of course, judging quality by sound is relative. However, the first comparison should not be underestimated. The biggest difference between domestic and imported tiles lies mainly in the consistency of tile specifications.
Lighting design techniques: 
Using light to change the color tone of a room. 
If people can scientifically grasp the basic knowledge of light and color, and then combine it with the size of the space, the combination of furniture, the functional needs of various rooms, and the interplay of light and shadow, etc., careful design and arrangement will surely add infinite interest and many unexpected artistic effects to the room. 
Commonly used lamps have both warm and cool colors, which can be used to adjust people's perception of indoor light color. For example, installing a warm-toned incandescent bulb in the center of a room, along with an aesthetically pleasing milky-white translucent glass shade, will produce warm, bright, peaceful, and tranquil light, giving a sense of elegance and freshness. Conversely, using a cool-toned white light bulb in a recessed, reflective lighting configuration can make a low-ceilinged or small room appear brighter and more spacious. 
The 
color of the walls and the lighting effects in a room are closely related. If the walls are blue or green, fluorescent lights are not suitable; instead, choose lights with a warm, sunny yellow hue to create a sense of warmth. If the walls are pale yellow or beige, cooler fluorescent lights can be used. This is because yellow reflects the shortest rays from cool light sources, making it less irritating to the eyes. If the room is furnished with chestnut or brown furniture, yellow lighting is appropriate, creating a spacious atmosphere. 
Painting the ceiling a light, cool color and installing recessed lighting around the perimeter will make the ceiling appear higher, and ambient lighting enhances the sense of space compared to direct lighting. Using ceiling lights can make a room appear taller, more spacious, and more modern. Some people use specially made positive-film landscape photographs, paired with recessed lighting, embedded in the wall to expand the visual space. If such mirrors are used on darker walls, they create the illusion of a new window, making the room brighter and more inviting. 
Modern room designs often utilize milky white or pale yellow table lamps at corners for decoration and adjustable lighting, transforming poorly lit corners into bright and unique spaces. 
Residential 

lighting should primarily use incandescent bulbs and rare-earth energy-saving fluorescent lamps. 
Residential lighting design should ensure a practical and comfortable indoor lighting environment. Bedrooms and dining rooms should use low color temperature light sources. 
Living room lighting should consider multi-functional needs, such as general lighting, decorative lighting, and floor lamps. Sometimes, dimming devices can be installed in living rooms to meet different functional requirements. 
1. For localized lighting in the dining room, use pendant lights to highlight the dining table. General lighting should also be provided to ensure the entire room has sufficient brightness and conveys a sense of cleanliness. 
2. Kitchen lights should be easy to clean, such as glass or enamel lampshades with moisture-proof bulb sockets, and their color rendering index should be consistent with or similar to the lighting source used in the dining room. 
3. The entryway is the first impression upon entering a room, so it should be bright. Lights should be positioned at the boundary between the entrance and the interior to avoid shadows on visitors' faces. 
4. Installing lights on cabinets or walls in the entryway will create a sense of spaciousness. 5. 
Hallway lighting should be installed at room entrances, closets, especially at the top of stairs and directional points. When installing pendant lights, the bottom of the light source should be at least 1.9 meters above the ground. Staircase lighting should be bright and avoid hazards. 
6. Bathrooms require bright but soft lighting. Since bathroom lights are frequently switched on and off, incandescent bulbs are suitable. 
7. Bathroom lights should not be installed above or behind toilets or bathtubs. If the switch is a rocker type, it should be located outside the bathroom door; otherwise 
, a moisture-proof and waterproof panel or a pull-cord switch operated with an insulated rope should be used. Lighting fixtures in the toilet should be installed above and in front of the toilet bowl. 
The lighting and power outlet placement in divisible residential (apartment) units should be adaptable to changes in partitioning with lightweight walls. Hanging outlets can be installed on the ceiling, decorative multi-functional cable trays can be used, or lighting fixtures and electrical components can be integrated with furniture and walls. 
Rocker switches with indicator lights are recommended for lobbies, corridors, and bathrooms in high-end residential (apartment) units. 
When surveillance cameras are installed for security purposes, their function should be linked to the corridor lighting and alarm bells within the unit. 
Staircase lights in apartments should be integrated with floor number displays, and public lighting can be centrally controlled from the management office. If timed switches are used for staircase lights in high-rise residential buildings, they should have limited energy flow and be forced to switch to a higher position in case of an accident. 
1. General lighting and sockets in each household should be wired separately. In addition to overload and short-circuit protection, each household's branch circuit should be equipped with leakage protection and over/under voltage protection devices in the socket circuit. 
2. Fluorescent lamps are recommended for lighting in single dormitories, and they should be installed perpendicular to the exterior windows. Each room should have at least two sets of sockets. Where conditions permit, load limiters or other power limiting measures can be used to control the electrical load in each room. Sockets should also be provided in public activity rooms.  3. Lighting design for 

commercial  lobbies, entrance halls, and seasonal halls: 4. The light source should combine main decorative lighting (decorative lamps, architectural lighting integrated with decoration) with general functional lighting, meeting functional needs while also reflecting decorative appeal.  5. Overall lighting should be bright and uniform in illuminance. Incandescent lamps and low-voltage halogen lamps should be the primary light sources. Inconspicuous downlighting fixtures (such as downlights and spotlights) should be used.  6. Dimming equipment should be installed, or a separate control method should be used to control indoor lighting to adapt to changes in lighting (such as different indoor illuminance during the day and night).  1. In high-ceilinged spaces such as the lobby and all-season hall, wall lamps, floor lamps, and table lamps can be installed to improve insufficient ceiling lighting and enrich the spatial layers.  2. The service counter should be brightly lit and conspicuous in the hall, so the illuminance in this area should be higher than in other areas.  3. To avoid glare, the lighting at the service counter should be designed so that customers cannot see the light source.  4. Staircase lighting should primarily be concealed to avoid glare while still providing sufficient illuminance. Light sources can be placed under handrails, steps, or corners to directly illuminate the stairs.  5. Corridor lighting should be bright, with an illuminance between 75-150 lux. 6.  Corridor light fixtures should be evenly arranged, preferably with recessed installation. Incandescent bulbs should be used. If the ceiling height is large, wall lamps can be used.  7. The lighting in the lobby's rest areas should not be too prominent and should avoid glare. Light sources can be placed on countertops (such as table lamps) or floor lamps.  8. Signage lighting should not be prominent; it should only illuminate the signage itself. Spotlights and light boxes can be used.  1. Lighting in lobbies, entrance halls, or all-season halls should ideally be centrally controlled from the main service desk or control room. Emergency lighting should be installed on main floors, staircases, entrances, and main traffic routes.  Lighting Design for Multifunctional Halls, Restaurants, and Entertainment Venues:  1. Multifunctional halls should employ a variety of lighting combinations and dimming devices to meet different functional and usage needs. Lighting control should be operated from both inside the hall and in the lighting control room.  2. Sufficient electrical outlets should be provided in multifunctional halls. 3.  Lighting design for bars, cafes, tea rooms, etc., should ideally use low-illuminance levels with dimming capabilities. Candlesticks and table lamps can be used for localized low-illuminance lighting on tables. However, the illuminance at entrances and cashiers should be high to meet functional needs.  4. The illuminance selection for interior art decorations can be based on the following principles: 300 LX when the reflectance of the decorative material is greater than 80%; 300-750 LX when the reflectance is between 50% and 80%.  l. The illuminance of the rooftop revolving hall should not be lower than 0.5 LX when viewing the scenery.  Guest Room Lighting Design:  l. Guest room lighting fixtures should minimize the use of ceiling lights and chandeliers, and instead include a variety of lights for different purposes, such as bedside lamps, floor lamps, table lamps, wall lamps, and nightlights. Incandescent bulbs should be the primary light source.  l. Bedside lighting fixtures should not cause glare or hand shadows when sleeping or reading, and should be easily accessible by hand.  l. Bedside lighting fixtures should preferably be dimmable. Backup lighting should be provided in the guest room corridors.  l. Guest room lighting should prevent uncomfortable glare and glare reflections. The luminance of lamps installed on writing desks should not exceed 510 cd/m², nor should it be lower than 170 cd/m².  l. The lighting fixtures for dressing mirrors and bathroom vanity mirrors should be installed at a solid angle of more than 60 degrees, and the luminance should not exceed 2100 cd/m². Bathroom lighting controls should preferably be located outside the bathroom door.  l. A power switch should be installed at the entrance of guest rooms to cut off all power except for the refrigerator and corridor lights.  m. Lighting design for dining environments should create a pleasant atmosphere. A wide range of light sources and fixtures can be chosen, but they must be coordinated and unified with the interior style.  m  . To make the colors of food and beverages realistic, light sources with good color rendering should be selected.  m. Incandescent lamps are more commonly used than fluorescent lamps in creating a comfortable dining atmosphere.  m. Local lighting above tables, in niches, and around seats helps create a welcoming atmosphere; dimmers are essential in the dining room. Foreground lighting in the dining room can be around 100 lux, while table lighting should be between 300-750 lux.  m. Generally, low color temperature light sources are easier to use in low illuminance conditions. As illuminance increases, there is a tendency towards white light. High-illuminance lighting with low color temperature light sources will feel stuffy. Low-illuminance environments with high color temperature light sources will have a bluish-white, gloomy atmosphere. However, to clearly see the colors of food and beverages, a light source with a high color index should be selected.  A multi-functional banquet hall is a large, adaptable space used for banquets and other functions. Therefore, decorative two- or four-way continuous lighting should be used. The decorative style should coordinate with the overall interior style, and the illuminance should reach 750 lux. Dimmers can be installed to meet various functional requirements.  A specialty restaurant offers local cuisine, and its interior environment should reflect local characteristics. Lighting design can employ the following methods: using lamps with ethnic characteristics; utilizing local materials in lamp design; utilizing local lighting methods; and integrating lighting with architectural decoration to highlight the interior's unique features.  For specialty restaurants and themed restaurants, the interior environment is not limited by the characteristics of the dishes. Environmental design should consider creating a certain feeling and atmosphere. To achieve this, various forms of lighting can be used.  Lighting in fast food restaurants can be diverse, utilizing various architectural lighting fixtures, decorative lighting, and advertising lighting. However, the design should consider coordination with the environment and customer psychology. Lighting in general fast-food restaurants should adopt a simple and modern style.  Bar lighting should be moderate in intensity, while the work area and display area behind the bar require higher local lighting to attract attention and facilitate operation (illuminance 0-320LX). Light troughs can be installed under the bar counter to illuminate the surrounding floor, giving a sense of stability. The interior environment should be dark, allowing for the creation of different personalities through lighting effects. Lighting can be used on tables or decorations; higher lighting is only needed for cleaning work. Office  lighting  is mostly done during the day, so artificial lighting should be designed in conjunction with natural light to create a comfortable lighting environment.  Fluorescent lamps are recommended for office lighting fixtures.  Matte decorative materials are recommended for surfaces adjacent to visual tasks and for interior decoration.  General office lighting should be designed on both sides of the work area; when using fluorescent lamps, the longitudinal axis of the lamp should be parallel to the horizontal line of sight. Lamp fixtures should not be placed directly in front of the work position.  When it is difficult to determine the work position, a two-way batwing-shaped luminaire with a large luminous area and low brightness can be selected.  In offices with computer terminals, reflections of people or objects (such as lamps, furniture, windows, etc.) should be avoided on the screen.  Ideal office environments and methods to avoid light reflections are important.  Managerial office lighting should consider the illuminance of the desk, the reception area, and necessary electrical equipment.  Conference room lighting should primarily focus on the lighting above the conference table, creating a sense of focus and concentration. Appropriate illuminance is essential, with supplementary lighting around the perimeter.  For auditorium stage areas used primarily for meetings, overhead lights combined with auxiliary lighting installed in front of the stage can be used, ensuring an average vertical illuminance of no less than 300 lux.  Lighting  configuration for study rooms:  Study rooms are places for family members to read and study, so the localized lighting effect should be emphasized. The selection of lamps should not only consider brightness but also the color and characteristics of their shape to suit the quiet and elegant learning environment of the study. General work and study lighting can use localized lighting fixtures, preferably high-wattage incandescent bulbs. The location does not necessarily need to be central; it can be determined based on the specific conditions of the room. The design and style of lamps should not be overly ornate; elegance and refinement are preferable, creating a tranquil environment suitable for reading.  Regarding desk lamp selection: the type of desk lamp should suit the nature of the work and study needs. Avoid colored glass diffusers or decorative lamps with gauze shades, as these prioritize decorative effects over lighting functionality. Instead, choose a direct-light desk lamp with a reflector and an open bottom, also known as a work lamp or writing lamp. Common light sources for desk lamps include incandescent and fluorescent lamps. Incandescent lamps have a higher color rendering index than fluorescent lamps, while fluorescent lamps have a higher luminous efficiency. Each has its advantages, and the choice can be made according to individual needs or preferences for lamp design. The energy-saving new light source—H fluorescent lamps—combines the advantages of both incandescent and fluorescent lamps, has a compact and elegant design, and offers significant energy savings, making it the best light source for desk lamps.  Currently, lighting consumption accounts for 7%-8% of total electricity consumption in China. According to China's "Green Lighting Project," energy conservation in lighting has become an important aspect of energy saving. Energy conservation aims to improve energy efficiency and reduce electricity consumption while ensuring adequate illuminance. 　　1. Scientific Selection of Light Sources 　　Scientific selection of light sources is the primary issue in lighting energy conservation. Currently, the luminous efficiency, lifespan, and color rendering performance of domestically produced light sources are continuously improving, and energy-saving light sources are constantly emerging. The light-emitting principles of light sources can be divided into two categories. One category is thermal radiation light sources, such as incandescent lamps and halogen lamps. The other category is gas discharge light sources, such as mercury lamps, sodium lamps, nitrogen lamps, and metal halide lamps. The luminous efficiency of various light sources varies considerably, with gas discharge light sources being much higher than thermal radiation light sources. Generally, gas discharge light sources can be gradually replaced by thermal radiation light sources, and high-efficiency gas discharge light sources should be selected whenever possible. 　　High-pressure sodium lamps have 8-10 times the luminous efficiency of incandescent lamps, a long lifespan, stable characteristics, and high luminous flux maintenance, making them suitable for lighting in places where color rendering requirements are not high, such as roads, squares, docks, and tall indoor factories and warehouses. 　　Metal halide lamps are characterized by high luminous efficacy, good color rendering, and high power, making them suitable for large-area lighting applications such as theaters and assembly workshops. 　　Fluorescent lamps save 70% more energy than incandescent lamps and are suitable for indoor lighting in offices, dormitories, and workshops with ceiling heights below 5 meters. Compact fluorescent lamps have 5% higher luminous efficacy than ordinary fluorescent lamps, and thin-tube fluorescent lamps save 10% more energy. Therefore, compact and thin-tube fluorescent lamps are high-efficiency and energy-saving light sources promoted in current "green lighting projects." 　　Incandescent lamps can be used in situations with frequent on/off cycles, small areas, and low lighting requirements. Double-helix filament incandescent lamps have 10% higher luminous flux than single-helix filament incandescent lamps and should be given priority based on needs. 　　2. Rational Selection of Lighting Fixtures The main function of lighting 　　fixtures is to rationally distribute the luminous flux radiated by the light source, meet the light distribution requirements of the environment and work, and avoid glare and severe light curtain reflections. When selecting lighting fixtures, in addition to considering the ambient light distribution and glare limitation requirements, the efficiency of the fixtures should also be considered, and high-efficiency fixtures should be selected. 　　Among various types of lighting fixtures, fluorescent lamps are mainly used for indoor lighting, while mercury lamps and sodium lamps are used for outdoor lighting. They can also be combined for mixed lighting. This results in high luminous efficacy, low power consumption, realistic and harmonious light color, and visual comfort. 　　3. Reasonable Selection of Illuminance and Lighting Methods 　　Selecting illuminance is a crucial issue in lighting design. Insufficient illuminance can damage workers' eyesight and affect product quality and production efficiency. Unreasonably high illuminance wastes electricity. The selected illuminance must be appropriate for the visual work being performed. Factory lighting can be selected according to the national standard TJ31-79 "Lighting Design Standard for Industrial Enterprises," considering the overall efficiency of the lighting system. 　　Under the condition of meeting standard illuminance, to save electricity, general lighting, local lighting, and mixed lighting methods should be appropriately selected. When one light source cannot meet the color rendering requirements, two or more light sources can be used in mixed lighting, which improves both luminous efficacy and color rendering. 　　In addition, making full use of natural light and correctly selecting natural lighting can also improve the working environment, making people feel comfortable and beneficial to health. Utilizing the reflectivity of indoor light-receiving surfaces can effectively improve light utilization. For example, the reflectivity of white walls can reach 70-80%, which also contributes to energy saving. 　　4. Strengthening the Management of Lighting Electricity 　　Strengthening the management of lighting electricity is an important aspect of lighting energy saving. Lighting energy saving management mainly focuses on energy-saving publicity and education, and establishing and implementing lighting energy-saving systems. This includes cultivating the habit of turning off lights when not in use; installing electricity meters per household and implementing metered billing; and installing electricity metering devices in dormitories to limit electricity consumption. These measures can effectively reduce lighting electricity consumption. 　　When light bulbs are dirty, their luminous flux may drop to less than 50% of the normal luminous flux. When light bulbs, lamps, glass, and walls are not clean, their reflectivity and transmittance will also be greatly reduced. To ensure the luminous effect of light bulbs, factories should regularly clean light bulbs, lamps, and walls according to the lighting environment. 　　5. Other Lighting Energy-Saving Measures 　　The loss in lighting circuits accounts for about 4% of the input electrical energy. The main factors affecting the loss in lighting circuits are the power supply method and the cross-sectional area of ​​the conductors. Most lighting uses 220V, and lighting systems can be powered by single-phase two-wire, two-phase three-wire, or three-phase four-wire. Three-phase four-wire power supply has significantly less line loss than other power supply methods. Therefore, lighting systems should use three-phase four-wire power supply whenever possible  .  Lighting can be classified into five categories based on the light diffusion method: 1. Direct lighting: All or more than 90% of the light source is directly projected onto the illuminated object. It is characterized by high brightness, giving a bright and compact feeling. 2. Semi-direct lighting: 60%–90% of the light source is directly projected onto the illuminated object, with 10%–40% reflected before being projected back onto the object. Its brightness is still relatively high, but softer than direct lighting. 3. Indirect lighting: The light source is projected onto the illuminated object. The light intensity is weak, the light is soft, there is no glare or obvious shadows, creating a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere. 4. Semi-indirect lighting: More than 60% of the light from the light source is reflected before reaching the illuminated object, with only a small amount of light directly hitting the object. V. Diffuse Lighting: Utilizing translucent frosted glass domes, milky white domes, or specially designed grilles, light is diffused in multiple directions. The soft light creates a beautiful artistic effect, suitable for living rooms, conference rooms, and large halls. The  second service of lighting in the living room  involves using the art of light language to depict and represent highly representative solid objects. The visual objects in a modern living room range from the large space itself to the high-quality antique and modern ornaments on a display shelf that reflect the owner's status and taste. In terms of the target audience, accurately identifying the desired object is crucial. Indeed, if the room is filled with objects to observe, and if the designated object is misplaced, it's equivalent to having no object at all. It gives a sense of clutter and disarray, rendering the service meaningless. There's a saying about "bright halls and dark rooms," which implicitly contains the "relativity" of lighting art. As we all know, the distinction between halls and rooms arises simply because halls are larger than rooms. If we disregard "bright" and "dark," who can say for sure that a hall is always larger than a room? This is probably why light serves a space that may be smaller than a room. The stage characters' styling and the artistic use of lighting in the set design are truly remarkable. The contrast between the halos of projected light and the low brightness (or even darkness) of the background silently identifies the "objects" presented by the director as the center, protagonist, or important figures. Imagine if this weren't on a stage, but rather in the antiques, decorations, and furniture of a living room? Or if it weren't part of the play's set design, but rather as precious wall hangings and paintings? How would all of this be explained? Antiques, decorations, and furniture adorn the living room, while lighting adds color to these objects.  Lighting serves the living room in three ways  . A good living room environment signifies harmony, coordination, and smooth flow between internal elements. Lighting is both an environmental factor and a medium and bridge for communication between other elements. Lighting serving the environment means coordinating the relationship between people and the environment, thus emphasizing the coordination of light quality. This refers to vision, utilizing the color rendering characteristics of different light sources to correctly, misleadingly, or amplify the judgment of environmental colors. Incandescent and halogen lamps, for example, can enhance warm colors like red, orange, and yellow, making them more vibrant. However, they can also mislead almost all pale and cool colors, making them appear darker and grayish. Similarly, daylight-colored fluorescent lamps can dilute warm colors like red, orange, and yellow, giving pale and yellowish hues a slightly yellowish-green tint, and can also make cool colors appear grayish, but they can enhance the green components. Secondly, regarding ambiance, spaces larger than 30 square meters, or longer than 7 meters, or areas separated from the living room and dining room by partitions or display shelves, can create a profound, mysterious, private, and tranquil atmosphere through the contrast of near and far light. Those residing in such spaces may experience a unique charm. Thirdly, regarding flow, the organic combination of diffused light from the ceiling, dynamic sound and light murals, and potted plants and flowers creates a smooth, harmonious, and natural ambiance, making those living in large cities feel as if they are in the vast nature they have longed for. The clever combination of warm and cool lighting with creative furnishings gives the room a more modern feel. Home Dimensions  Memorandum ( on the construction site) : 1. Standard red bricks 23*11*6; standard entrance doorway 0.9m*2m, room doorway 0.9m*2m, kitchen doorway 0.8m*2m, bathroom doorway 0.7m*2m; standard cement 50kg/bag. In the kitchen 　　: 1. What should be the distance between the wall cabinets and the countertop? 　　60cm. 　　You should ensure this distance from the countertop to the bottom of the wall cabinets. This allows for convenient cooking while also providing space for small appliances in the cabinets. 　　2. When placing various furniture and appliances along two opposite walls in the kitchen, how much space should be left in the middle to avoid obstructing housework? 　　120cm. 　　This distance is essential for easily opening cabinet doors on both sides. 　　150cm. 　　This distance allows for someone to stand in the middle even with both cabinet doors open. 　　3. What is the appropriate stool height for comfortably sitting around the breakfast table? 　　80cm. 　　For a breakfast table that is 110 cm high, this is the ideal height for the stools placed around it. This is because 30 cm of space is needed between the tabletop and the stools to accommodate legs. 　　4. How high should wall cabinets be installed? 　　145 to 150 cm. 　　This height allows you to open the cabinet doors without having to stand on tiptoe.  In the dining room 　　: 1. How large should a dining table for six people be? 　　120 cm. 　　This is the required diameter for a round dining table. 　　140*70 cm. 　　This is the required size for rectangular and oval tables. 　　2. How far should the dining table be from the wall? 　　80 cm. 　　This distance includes pulling out chairs and the minimum distance for diners to move around comfortably. 　　3. How much area should a square table with its diagonal against the wall occupy? 　　180*180 square centimeters. 　　This is the minimum area occupied by a square table with sides of 90 cm and a minimum distance of 40 cm between the corner and the wall. 　　4. What should the standard height of a table be? 　　72 cm. 　　This is the medium height of the table, while the chair is typically 45 cm high. 　　5. How much space does a table for six people occupy in a living room? 　　300*300 cm. 　　Space needs to be left for a table with a diameter of 120 cm, as well as space for people to move around while dining. This plan is suitable for a large living room, at least 600*350 cm in area. 　　6. What is the ideal distance between the chandelier and the tabletop? 　　70 cm. 　　This is the ideal distance to ensure the tabletop receives complete and even illumination.  In the bathroom: 1. How much space do bathroom fixtures take up?  Typical area occupied by the toilet: 37 cm × 60 cm;  area that a wall-mounted or pedestal sink might occupy: 70 cm × 60 cm;  area of ​​a square shower stall: 80 cm × 80 cm  ; standard area of ​​a bathtub: 160 cm × 70 cm.  2. How far should the bathtub be from the opposite wall?  100 cm. This is a reasonable distance if you want to move around around. Even in a narrow bathroom, allow for movement when installing a bathtub. Generally, there should be at least 60 cm of space between the bathtub and other walls or items.  3. How much space is needed to install a washbasin for easy use?  90 cm x 105 cm. This size is suitable for a medium-sized washbasin and allows another person to wash next to it.  4. How much distance should be left between two hand sanitizers?  20 cm. This distance includes the distance between the toilet and washbasin, or between the sanitary ware and the wall.  5. How far apart should a bathtub and toilet be placed opposite each other?  60 cm. This is the minimum distance to pass through, so a bathroom with a bathtub and toilet facing each other should be at least 180 cm wide.  6. How wide should a bathroom be at least to install a bathtub against the inner wall?  180 cm. This distance is suitable for a traditional bathtub. If the bathroom is narrow, consider installing a small bathtub with a seat.  7. How high should a mirror be installed? 135厘米。这个高度可以使镜子正对着人的脸。在卧室　　1 双人主卧室的最标准面积是多少？　　12平方米　　夫妻二人的卧室不能比这个在小了。在房间里除了床以外，还可以放一个双开门的衣柜（120*60厘米）和两个床头柜。在一个3*4.5米的房间里可以放更大一点的衣柜；或者选择小一点的双人床，再在抽屉和写字台之间选择其一。就可以在摆放衣柜的地方选择一个带更衣间的衣柜。　　2 如果把床斜放在角落里，要留出多大空间？360*360厘米　　这是适合于较大卧室的摆放方法，可以根据床头后面墙角空地的大小在拜访一个储物柜。　　3 两张并排摆放的床之间的距离应该有多远？　　90厘米　　两张床之间除了能放下两个床头柜以外，还应该能让两个人自由走动。当然床的外侧也不例外，这样才能方便的清洁地板和整理床上用品。　　4 如果衣柜被放在了与床相对的墙边，那么两件家具这间的距离应该是多少？　　90厘米　　这个距离是为了能方便地打开柜门而不至于被绊倒在床上　　5 衣柜应该有多高？　　240厘米　　这个尺寸考虑到了在衣柜里能放下长一些的衣物（160厘米），并在上部留出了放换季衣物的空间（80厘米）　　6 要想容的下双人床、两个床头柜外加衣柜的侧面的话，一面墙应该有多大？　　420*420厘米　　这个尺寸的墙面可以放下一张160厘米宽的双人床，和侧面宽度为60厘米的衣柜，还包括床两侧的活动空间（两侧60——70厘米），以及柜门打开时所占用的空间（60厘米）。如果衣柜采用拉门，那么墙面只需要360厘米宽就够了  在客厅　　1.长沙发与摆在它面前的茶几之间的正确距离是多少？　　30厘米　　在一个（240*90*75高 厘米）的长沙发面前摆放一个（130*70*45高 厘米）的长方形茶几是非常舒适的。两者之间的理想距离应该是能允许你一个人通过的同时又便于使用，也就是说不用站起来就可以方便地拿到桌上的杯子或者杂志。　　2.一个能摆放电视机的大型组合柜的最小尺寸应该是多少？　　200*50*180高 厘米　　这种类型的家具一般都是由大小不同的方格组成，高处部分比较适合用来摆放书籍，柜体厚度至少保持30厘米；而低处用于摆放电视的柜体厚度至少保持50厘米。同时组合柜整体的高度和横宽还要考虑与墙壁的面积相协调。　　3.如果摆放可容纳三、四个人的沙发，那么应该选择多大的茶几来搭配呢？　　140*70*45高 厘米　　在沙发的体积很大或是两个长沙发摆在一起的情况下，矮茶几就是很好的选择，高度最好和沙发坐垫的位置持平。　　4.在扶手沙发和电视机之间应该预留多大的距离？　　3米　　这里所指的是在一个25英寸的电视与扶手沙发或长沙发之间最短的距离。此外，摆放电视机的柜面高度应该在40厘米到120厘米之间，这样才能使观众保持正确的坐姿。　　5.摆在沙发边上茶几的理想尺寸是多少？　　方形：70*70*60高 厘米。　　椭圆形：70*60高 厘米。　　放在沙发边上的咖啡桌应该有一个不是特别大的桌面，但要选那种较高的类型，这样即使坐着的时候也能方便舒适地取到桌上的东西。　　6.两个面对面放着的沙发和摆放在中间的茶几一共需要占据多大的空间？　　两个双人沙发（规格 160*90*80高 厘米）和茶几（规格 100*60*45高 厘米）之间应相距30厘米。　　7.长沙发或是扶手沙发的的靠背应该有多高？　　85至90厘米。　　这样的高度可以将头完全放在靠背上，让您的颈部得到充分的放松。如果沙发的靠背和扶手过低，建议您增加一个靠垫来获得舒适。如果空间不是特别宽敞，沙发应该尽量靠墙摆放。　　8.如果客厅位于房间的中央，后面想要留出一个走道空间，这个走道应该有多宽？　　100至120厘米。　　走道的空间应该能让两个成年人迎面走过而不至于相撞，通常给每个人留出60厘米的宽度。　　9.两个对角摆放的长沙发，它们之间的最小距离应该是多少？　　10厘米。　　如果不需要留出走道的话，这种情况就能允许您再放一个茶几了。装饰石材分为花岗岩和大理石两大类，市场上常见的变质岩、板岩、千板岩、白云岩、泥晶灰岩等装饰石料统归于大理石类，安山岩、玄武岩、闪长岩、辉绿岩、辉长岩等用于建筑装饰的，因其质地较坚硬，又归于花岗岩。　　天然大理石是石灰岩经过地壳内高温高压作用形成的变质岩属于中硬石材，主要由方解石和白云石组成。主要成分以碳酸钙为主，约占50%以上，其他成分还有氧化钙，氧化锰及二氧化硅等等。　　我国大理石储量较大，品种约400个，较名贵的有北京房山汉白玉、安徽怀宁和贵池白大理石、河北曲阳和涞源白大理石、四川宝兴蜀白玉、江苏赣榆白大理石、云南大理的苍山白、山东平度和涞州市的雷花白、陕西的大花绿、安徽怀宁的碧波、山东栖霞的海浪玉、浙江杭州的杭灰、四川南江的南江红、河北阜平的阜平红、辽宁铁岭的东北红、河南浙川松香黄、松香玉和米黄等。　　天然花岗岩，也叫酸性结晶深成岩，属于硬石材，由长石、石英和云母组成，以二氧化硅为主要成分。其岩质坚硬密实，按其结晶大小可分为“伟晶”、“粗晶”和“细晶”三种。　　我国自产的花岗岩约有300余种，其中有四川的四川红、广西的岭溪红、山西的贵妃红、橘红、内蒙古的丰镇黑、河北的中国黑、山东的将军红、新疆的新疆红和河南的洛阳红等。进口的花岗岩有印度红、啡钻麻石、蓝钻、绿晶、巴西蓝、西班牙米黄等。　　花岗石根据其不同的加工方法，可分为：蘑菇石，用劈、剁、铲、凿加工成规格的石块，其中部突出表面粗糙，而四周铲平，形如蘑菇突起。剁斧石，用剁斧头或剁斧加工机械将板白加工成具有剁斧纹的粗面饰白板或块石。锤击板材，用花锤加工成板面具有锤击痕石面板。烧毛板（火烧板）用火焰喷烧花岗石表面，因矿物颗粒的膨胀系数不同产生崩落而形成起浮有致的粗饰花纹的板材。机创板材，用创石机将表面创削成槽状粗面的饰面板。磨光板（细面装饰板），挡住粗磨和表面光滑的板材，抛光板又称镜面板材。厚板又称标准板，指厚度小雨20毫米（有的规定小于15毫米）的板材。异形板，指正方形或长方形以外各种形状的板材。规格板，指按各种标准规定生产的定型板材。工程板，指用于某指定工程，按设计要求配套生产的非定型产品。  1、 防水施工宜采用涂膜防水  　　2、 防水工程应该在隐蔽工程施工完成并验收后做  　　3、 防水施工完成后要做2次蓄水试验  　　4、 浴室防水层应该不低于1.8米  　　5、 地漏、阴阳角、管道等地方要多做一次防水  　　6、 地漏要用防臭地漏  　　7、 冷热水管左热右冷  　　8、 水管尽量不要从地上走  　　9、 冷水管在墙里要有1CM的保护层,热水管是1.5CM，因此槽要开得深  　　10、 装PPR管是要考虑贴好瓷砖的厚度，这样管子不会露出来  　　11、 烧菜只有几分钟，洗菜要很久，水斗一定要买大的  　　12、 龙头和台盆要配套，弄不好就装不上去了  　　13、 马桶安装不能用水泥，要用硅胶  　　14、 马桶、龙头安装好后要注意保护  　　15、 买马桶时要考虑马桶的坑距  　　16、 洗衣机要考虑是上排水还是下排水  　　17、 卫生间里最好不要装电话，容易受潮  　　18、 卫生间里的镜子要先考虑好尺寸，否则镜前灯很容易就装高了  　　19、 卫生间管道最好留检修孔  　　20、 强电弱电不能穿在同一根管子里  　　21、 左零、右相上接地  　　22、 电源插座距地300，开关1.4米  　　23、 开关不要装在门背后  　　24、 插座多多宜善  　　25、 大功率电器用16A插座，如电烤箱等  　　26、 暗盒要用好的  　　27、 暗盒一定要和面板配套，否则有可能装不上  　　28、 PVC电线管内电线截面面积不得超过电线管截面面积的40%  　　29、 卧室的空调不要对着床  　　30、 空调洞要考虑向外倾斜，否则雨水会进来  　　31、 灯尽量考虑双控  　　32、 卫生间最好安装防溅插座  　　33、 阳台上要考虑个插座  　　34、 电线槽要横平竖直，排好照，以后用起来方便  　　35、 公用烟道要装止逆阀  　　36、 买来的电器一定要好好让工人看说明书  　　37、 说明书和保修卡等资料一定要留好  泥 工  　　38、 水泥超过出厂期三个月就不能用了  　　39、 不同品种、标号的水泥不能混用  　　40、 黄砂一定要用河砂，用嘴尝味道就知道了  　　41、 墙地砖要浸水两小时以上，阴干后才能贴  　　42、 墙地砖宁可多买几片，不要少买，否则容易出现色差  　　43、 一面墙上不能有两排非整砖  　　44、 擦缝完成后要立即对瓷砖进行清理  　　45、 地面贴大理石(浅色)，石材背面要做防水  　　46、 阳角处要割45度角  　　47、 地砖要向地漏处倾斜，否则容易积水  　　48、 墙砖碰到管道口要采用套割的形式，这样看起来还是整块的砖  　　49、 地面大理石宜干铺  　　50、 地砖一定要耐脏，防滑，不要光为了好看  　　51、 亚光瓷砖难清理  　　52、 阳台地砖要注意排水方向  木 工  　　53、 地龙骨最好用烘干落叶松  　　54、 大的木板材买来后就要锯开风干  　　55、 木工进场先要弹房子水平线  　　56、 花色面板一进来就要买油漆刷一遍，防止被弄脏  　　57、 吊扇不能装在吊顶龙骨上  　　58、 花色面板施工时要预先挑色  　　59、 吊顶的吊筋距离墙边不得大于300  　　60、 石膏板要用沉头自攻螺丝固定，进入板面1~2MM，并做防锈处理，不能用枪钉  　　61、 石膏板钉子之间的距离不得大于200  　　62、 石膏板要与墙有3MM的缝，以便进行防裂处理  　　63、 石膏板阳角处最好做阳角条保护  　　64、 木门的上下冒头处要刷油漆  　　65、 卫生间门套的底部要刷一下防水  　　66、 房门的大小应该一致  　　67、 家具尽量不要让木工做，做也做不好的  　　68、 橱柜尽量买整体的，木工做不好，设计也不行  　　69、 各中尺寸一定要考虑好，改起来就比较麻烦了  　　70、 自己做的移门不要做暗轨道，以后没办法维修的  　　71、 卫生间小的话尽量做移门，不要做开门，占地方  　　72、 吃不准的木工活一定要与工头多交流，千万不能让他们自作主张  　　73、 钱在手里是硬道理  　　74、 家里有小孩，玻璃要少用  　　75、 一定要让工人好好看图纸  　　76、 厨房抽屉很有用  　　77、 地板木龙骨平整度是5MM  　　78、 毛地板要铺成30度或45度，板和板之间留2~3MM，缝要错开  　　79、 地板和墙之间要留8~10MM的缝  　　80、 复合地板长度超过8M时要考虑伸缩缝  　　81、 尽量少用中密度板做门套  　　82、 铰链和五金一定要用好的  　　83、 浴霸要装在木龙骨上，不能直接装在吊顶上  油漆工  　　84、 中、深色乳胶漆施工时尽量不要掺水，否则容易出现色差  　　85、 石膏板接缝处要上绷带  　　86、 墙面有缝隙的地方要上的确凉布比较好  　　87、 原来墙面有的腻子最好铲除，或者刷一遍胶水封固  　　88、 尽量买知名品牌的油漆，装修公司推荐或工头推荐的没名气的尽量不要用  　　89、 天气太潮湿，油漆不要刷  　　90、 油漆、涂料的打磨要等完全干透后进行  　　91、 下一道油漆施工必须等前一道油漆干透后进行  　　92、 金属面的油漆要做防锈处理  　　93、 天气太冷，油漆施工质量会差的  　　94、 门油漆时，要用美纹纸贴住铰链和门锁  　　95、 天太热，要注意通风  　　96、 贴墙纸时，要在墙上刷清油  　　97、 贴墙纸时，要把开关、插座的面板卸下来  　　98、 亮光、丝光的乳胶漆要一次完成，补的容易出现色差  　　99、 踢脚线安装好后要用腻子和乳胶漆补一下缝  　　100、 磨砂玻璃要用报纸保护好  1，坐便器按结构分：坐便器可分为分体坐便器和连体坐便器两种，在选择分体坐便器还是连体坐便器时，主要看卫生间空间的大小。一般的，分体坐便器所占空间大些，连体坐便器所占空间要小些。另外，分体坐便器外形要显得传统些，价格也相对便宜，连体坐便器要显得新颖高档些，价格相对较高。消费者完全可以按照自己的情况来决定。2，按卫生间的出水口有下排水，《又叫底排》和横排水《又叫后排》之分。横排的排水口在地面上，使用时要用一段胶管与坐便器后出口连接。底排的排水口，俗称地漏，使用时只要将坐便器的排水口与它对正就行了。一般比较老的楼房是横排的，大多数新楼房都是底排的排水系统，在选择坐便器时，就必须确定一下地漏的中心与墙面的距离，这个距离有２２０ｍｍ、３０５ｍｍ、４００ｍｍ和４２０ｍｍ等多种规格。不同地区可能会有些差别，在安装时注意不能相差过大，否则会影响排水效果。要量好下水口中心至水箱后面墙体的距离，买相同型号的坐便器来“对距入座，，否则坐便器无法安装。横排水坐便器的出水口要和横排水口的高度相等，最好略高一些，才能保证污水畅，30厘米的为中下水坐便器：20至25厘米为后下水坐便器；距离在40厘米以上的为前下水坐便器。型号稍有差错，下水就不畅。装修完毕后，一定要试验排水，方法是将水箱内配件装好，灌满水，然后在坐便器内放一张卫生纸并滴一滴墨水，一次排放不留痕迹，说明下水通畅，同时注意坐便器中积水较少为好3注意选择不同的排水方式：坐便器按下水方式可分为“冲落式”、“虹吸冲落式”和“虹吸漩涡式”等。冲落式及虹吸冲落式注水量约6升左右，排污能力强，只是冲水时声音大；而漩涡式一次用水量大，但有良好的静音效果。消费者不妨试试直冲虹吸式坐便器，直冲虹吸式坐便器，它兼有直冲、虹吸两者的优点，既能迅速冲洗污物，也可起到节水的作用。一般横排的选择冲落式，它是借助冲洗水的冲力直接将污物排出；底排的选择虹吸式排水，它的原理就是借冲洗水在排污管内形成虹吸作用，将污物排出，这种冲水方式要求用水量必须达到规定的数量才能形成有效的虹吸作用。冲落式冲水声音较大，冲力也较大，多数蹲便器采用这种方式；虹吸式与冲落式相比，冲水声音要小得多。虹吸式还可分为普通虹吸和静音虹吸，普通虹吸也叫喷射虹吸，坐便器的喷水孔在下水管道底部，喷水孔正对着排水口；静音虹吸又叫旋涡虹吸，它与普通虹吸的主要区别是喷水口不是正对排水口，有的是与排水口并列，有的是从坐便器上部四周出水，达到规定水量形成旋涡然后排出污物。现在市场上出售的多数为虹吸式的坐便器。  4，需要了解坐便器的排水量。国家规定使用６升以下的坐便器。现在市场上的坐便器多数是６升的，许多厂家还推出了大小解分开的坐便器，有两个开关３升和６升，这种设计更利于节水。另外，还有厂家推出了４．５升的，您在选择时，最好做一下冲水实验，因为水量多少会影响使用效果。另外坐便器的水箱配件很容易被人忽略，其实水箱配件好比是坐便器的心脏，更容易产生质量问题。购买时要注意选择配件质量好，具有注水噪音低，坚固耐用，经得起水的长期浸泡而不腐蚀、不起水垢的。　　目前，市场上坐便器品牌繁多，款型各异。从卫生角度来讲，主卫生间一般采用坐便器，客用卫生间一般选用蹲便器，卫生间较大的家庭，还可选择男用的小便器，这样既利于清洁，又能节约用水。到市场挑选注意五个步骤：　　看、摸、掂、比、试　　１．看整体。知名的店面都有自己的特色，设有样板间，把能证明自己实力的各种资格证书摆放在比较明显的位置。样品摆放得是否整齐、美观，能从一个侧面反映出厂家对自己品牌的重视和用心程度。　　２．摸表面。高档的坐便器表面的釉面和坯体都比较细腻，手摸表面不会有凹凸不平的感觉。中低档坐便器的釉面比较暗，在灯光照射下，会发现有毛孔，釉面和坯体都比较粗糙。  　　３．掂分量。高档坐便器必须采用卫生陶瓷中的高温陶瓷，这种陶瓷的烧成温度在１２００°Ｃ以上，材料结构全部完成晶相转化，生成结构呈极致密的玻璃相，达到了卫生洁具全瓷化的要求，手掂有沉甸甸的感觉。中、低档的坐便器均采用的是卫生陶瓷中的中、低温陶瓷，这两种陶瓷由于其烧成的温度低，烧成的时间短，无法完成晶相转化，因此达不到全瓷化的要求。　　４．比吸水率。高温陶瓷与中、低温陶瓷最明显的区别是吸水率，高温陶瓷的吸水率低于０．２％，产品易于清洁不会吸附异味，不会发生釉面的龟裂和局部漏水现象。中、低温陶瓷的吸水率大大高于这个标准且容易进污水，不易清洗还会发出难闻的异味，时间久了还会发生龟裂和漏水现象。　　５．试冲水。对于坐便器来说，最主要的功能是冲水，而坐便器管道设计是否科学合理，是影响冲水的最大因素。因此，一般正规厂家的专卖店或经销商，都有试水台，以供客户试水之用，在ＧＢ－Ｔ６９５２－１９９９所规定的标准中，要求在小于或等于６升水的情况下，３次冲水，平均至少要有５个注水的乒乓球冲出。　　



























　 









































































　　





　　



　　









　　



　　







　　



　　
























　　


　　



　　



　　



　　







　　



　　



　　



　　




　　


　　



　　



　　

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title:
1. The calculation method for the short kitchen cabinets in front of the aisle is sometimes based on the upper cabinets, which is unreasonable.
2. Space should be reserved for hand dryers and power outlets in the kitchen and bathroom.
3. Consider using an economical gas water heater in the kitchen.
4. The material of the hot water pipes in the kitchen and bathroom should be carefully considered: copper or PPR?
5. The flue duct should be made of metal, as it is less prone to aging.
6. Kitchen cabinets should cost at least 2000 RMB per meter to ensure quality and grade.
7. Consider using granite for the kitchen countertop, approximately 400 RMB per square meter.
8. The wall behind the kitchen cabinets should be tiled, but cheaper tiles are acceptable as long as the dimensions are the same.
9. The portion of the tile extending into the ceiling should also be fully tiled; the covered portion can be tiled with cheaper tiles.
10. Consider a suspended design for the lower cabinets, with supporting legs. Therefore, continuous floor tiling is recommended. (Inexpensive tiles can also be used for the covered portion.)
11. The range hood and lighting fixtures should be purchased before the kitchen ceiling is installed, and the kitchen cabinets should also be designed to determine their relative positions.
12. Use rectangular recessed ceiling lights for the kitchen. Pay attention to the width of the joists, otherwise the recessed part of the light may not be able to fit.
13. Sufficient storage space should be left near the microwave and stove. There should be 40cm of space on each side of the stove.
14. Auxiliary lighting should be installed above the kitchen sink and worktop. Fluorescent lights are sufficient, or recessed ceiling lights can be considered.
15. A sliding shelf (for seasonings and detergents), a drain basket, a splash guard (integrated with the kitchen cabinets), and a flame guard (sometimes integrated with the stove or range hood, usually made of glass or stainless steel) should
be installed in front of the kitchen worktop. 16. For kitchen cabinet pull-out drawers, Junkang is a good domestic brand; it's a Taiwanese-owned company.
17. Hinge brands: Ferrari, Hettich, Sacelli, Blum, Grass.
18. Drawer slide brands: Hafele, Hettich (note the four grades: A, B, C, and D).
19. The inside of drawers should be designed with rounded edges or have corner pads installed to prevent dust accumulation.
20. Drawers should also have dividers.
21. Kitchen outlets should be installed after fully considering all appliances. The basic principle is: one outlet every 60cm, 10cm above the countertop.
22. Kitchen and bathroom wall cabinets should be installed with hanging brackets for easy future disassembly.
23. Kitchen hot and cold water pipe outlets should generally be about 550mm from the ground.
24. Sterilization cabinets and microwave ovens should ideally be installed in lower cabinets, with outlets installed in adjacent cabinets.
25. All lower cabinets should be equipped with child locks to prevent child accidents.
26. Fire-resistant and heat-insulating materials should be used between kitchen cabinets and the exhaust duct.
27. Kitchen cabinet materials: Fuhe and Fuchun formaldehyde-free plywood; Jilu A-grade particleboard; Penghong formaldehyde-free plywood; plywood thickness should reach 175-18mm, and surface layer thickness should reach 1.5mm.
28. Kitchen cabinet construction process: plywood backing, fireproof board veneer, stainless steel frame, Stanley or Aijia (EGGER, MFC) fireproof board doors;
29. ​​Kitchen cabinet back panel: Aijia, medium-density fiberboard backing, double-sided 3mm melamine veneer; clear varnish can also be used. 30. Kitchen cabinet front panel:
Aijia aluminum alloy cabinet doors with non-functional handles, Italian imported brand CAIM, 85/meter. 31.
Other kitchen cabinet door panels: Taiwan crystal board; Belgian Digu cabinet door panels; imported molded door panels from South Korea, Japan, and Germany; German Xilinmen, Guangdong SKC high-gloss molded door panels, etc.
32. Cabinet door edge banding: Xiong Yi, Huang Yi, You Sheng.
33. Whether the cabinet body and countertop are installed correctly in one go is an important standard for judging the strength of a kitchen cabinet manufacturer.
34. Price comparison of some imported/domestic kitchen cabinet parts (unit: yuan):
Cabinet door panel: Aijia/Jilu 250/45; Hinges: 9; *Edge sealing strip 9/2.5; *Baseboard: 90/8; Adjustable feet: 7/1.5; Door handles: 50/3～10; Connectors: 5/1; Hanging brackets 15/1.2. 

1. The bathroom floor drain should be a stainless steel deep-seal anti-odor floor drain; consider Songshan self-sealing floor drains.
2. If the bathroom floor is green, even with white walls, it will look vibrant and clean.
3. Hollow tubular diamond drill bits should be used to drill slightly larger holes in kitchen and bathroom tiles, and cork should be used to fill them.
4. After the kitchen and bathroom tiles arrive, pay attention to the inspection: check and remember the item number, verify the color, and count the quantity—usually, there will be shortages.
5. Only Class A stone should be used for kitchen and bathroom fixtures. Four steps to identify quality: 1. Observe: Fine texture; 2. Measure: Dimensions; 3. Listen: A clear and pleasant sound when tapped; 4. Test: If ink does not spread on the back, it indicates high density.
6. Artificial stone: Imported brands: DuPont, Formica, LG, Samsung; Domestic brands: Miqili (standard - pure resin board, premium - composite acrylic, and high-quality - pure acrylic), Monterey, Caibaoshi, Aobaoshi. Artificial stone priced below 500 RMB/meter is not recommended.
7. Bathroom entrance ventilation should be from above to prevent cold air from entering.
8. Bathroom fixture heights: Shower 2050-2100mm; Countertop 700-740mm; Mirror 1100mm high, 900mm from the ground.
9. To avoid damage to sanitary ware, request the manufacturer to deliver, install, and measure free of charge, and provide construction guidance drawings.
10. Sanitary ware and bathroom cabinets should be purchased before water system renovation.
11. Bathroom heater installation steps: wiring, tiling, ceiling installation, bathroom heater installation.
12. Bathroom waterproofing height: 250mm～300mm; 1.2 meters on the sink side; 1.8 meters in the shower room.
13. Bathroom waterproofing construction process: roughen with sandpaper -- apply interface adhesive -- waterproof putty (identification: cannot be wiped off after being wet for 2 minutes).
14. Install storage boxes in the bathroom for small items; install clothes racks for clothes to be washed/washed.

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title:
Industry Guidance Manual – Light Steel Keel Gypsum Board Partition Wall
I. Main Materials and Accessories Requirements
1. Main Light Steel Keel Components: Top keel, bottom keel, reinforcing keel, vertical keel, and horizontal keel should meet design requirements.
2. Light Steel Frame Accessories: Support clips, brackets, corner brackets, connectors, fasteners, wall-mounted keel, molding strips, and other accessories should meet design requirements.
3. Fastening Materials: Nails, expansion bolts, galvanized self-tapping screws, wood screws, and adhesive caulking compound should meet design requirements.
4. Sound Insulation Filling Material: Selected according to design requirements.
5. Covering Board: The specifications and thickness of the paper-faced gypsum board shall be selected by the designer or according to the drawings.
II. Main Tools
DC welding machine, electric toothed saw, electric drill, screwdriver, nail gun, plumb bob, straightedge, etc.
III. Working Conditions
1. Basic acceptance work should be completed before the construction of light steel frame and gypsum board panel partition walls. The installation of gypsum board panels should be carried out after the roof, ceiling, and wall plastering are completed.
2. If the design requires the partition wall to have a ground sill strip, the light steel frame can only be installed after the ground sill strip is completed and reaches the design level.
3. According to the design and construction drawings and material plan, verify all materials for the partition wall to ensure they are complete and matched.
4. All materials must have material test reports and certificates of conformity.
IV. Operating Procedures
1. Process Flow
Light Partition Wall Layout → Installation of Door and Window Opening Frames → Installation of Top and Ground Studs → 
Vertical Stud Spacing → Installation of Vertical Studs → Installation of Horizontal Stud Brackets →
Installation of Gypsum Board Panels → Construction Joint Treatment → Surface Layer Construction
2. Layout: According to the design and construction drawings, lay out the partition wall position lines, door and window opening frame lines, and top stud position lines on the completed ground or ground sill strip.
3. Install door opening frames: After laying out the lines, install the door opening frames of the partition wall according to the design.
4. Install top and bottom joists: Install the top and bottom joists according to the laid-out partition wall position lines, 
fixing them to the main structure with nails at 600mm intervals.
5. Vertical joist spacing: Based on the door opening positions laid out in the partition wall, after installing the top and bottom joists, divide the joists into 450mm sections according to the panel width (900mm or 1200mm). Sections with insufficient modularity should avoid the first panel near the door opening frame to prevent damaged plaster panels from being near the frame.
6. Install joists: Install the vertical joists according to the spacing. Insert the top and bottom ends of the vertical joists into the top and bottom joists, adjust for verticality and accurate positioning, and then fix them with pop rivets. Joists near walls and columns are fixed to the walls and columns with nails or wood screws at 1000mm intervals.
7. Install horizontal retaining joists: According to design requirements, horizontal retaining joists should be added when the partition wall height is greater than 3m, and fixed with pull-pin rivets or bolts.
8. Install gypsum board panels:
1) Check the quality of the joist installation, whether the door opening frame meets the design and structural requirements, and whether the joist spacing conforms to the module of the gypsum board width.
2) Install the gypsum board on one side, starting from the doorway. For walls without door openings, start from one end of the wall. Gypsum boards are generally fixed with self-tapping screws, with a screw spacing of 200mm at the edge and 300mm in the middle. The distance between the screw and the edge of the gypsum board should not be less than 10mm or more than 16mm. When fixing with self-tapping screws, the gypsum board must be tightly against the joists.
3) Install electrical conduits, electrical boxes, and electrical equipment within the wall.
4) Install fireproof, soundproof, and moisture-proof filling materials within the wall, simultaneously with the installation and filling of the gypsum board on the other side.
5) Install the gypsum board on the other side of the wall: The installation method is the same as the first side, but the joints should be staggered from the first side panel.
6) Install double-layer gypsum board: The fixing method for the second layer is the same as the first layer, but the joints of the third layer should be staggered from the first layer and should not fall on the same joist as the joints of the first layer.
9. Joint construction: There are three types of joint construction for gypsum board: flat joints, recessed joints, and strip joints. They can be handled according to the following procedure:
1) Apply joint filler: Before applying joint filler, clean the loose soil in the joints, use a small scraper to embed the putty into the joints, fill it with the board surface, and smooth it.
2) Apply the joint tape: Once the joint filler has hardened and formed its original shape, apply the joint material. First, apply a thin
layer of thin, adhesive-like putty, 1mm thick and the same width as the joint tape, to the joint. Then, apply the joint tape, smoothing and compacting it from top to bottom with a medium scraper, removing any air bubbles between the putty and the joint tape.
3) Apply the intermediate layer of putty: After applying the joint tape, immediately apply another layer of intermediate putty, approximately 80mm wider and 1mm thick, to embed the joint tape within this layer.
4) Leveling putty: Use a large scraper to fill the wedge-shaped grooves with putty and smooth it against the board.
10. Wall decoration and paper-faced gypsum board walls: Various finishes can be applied according to design requirements. V. Strictly adhere to
quality standards
.
VI. Finished product protection
1. During the construction of light steel keel partition walls, trades should ensure that installed items are not damaged, and electrical conduits and equipment inside the walls must not be disturbed, misaligned, or damaged.
2. Light steel frames and gypsum board should be properly stored and used upon arrival to ensure they do not deform, become damp, become contaminated, or suffer damage.
3. Installed doors, windows, floors, walls, and window sills in the construction area should be protected to prevent damage.
4. Installed walls should not be bumped or impacted to prevent damage or contamination.
VII. Quality Issues to Note
1. Wall shrinkage and cracks: This is caused by vertical keel being tightly fitted against the upper and lower keels without allowing for expansion or contraction, and walls longer than 2m without expansion joints, resulting in wall deformation. A 3mm gap should be left around the perimeter of partition walls to reduce deformation and cracks caused by temperature and humidity.
2. Loose connections in the light steel frame: This is caused by local joints not meeting structural requirements. Local joints should be strictly treated according to the drawings during installation. Nail spacing, position, and connection method should meet design requirements.
3. Uneven wall panels: This is mostly caused by two reasons: horizontal misalignment of the keel installation and inconsistent gypsum board thickness.
Uneven joints: The dimensions of the joints in the gypsum board are difficult to control; pay attention to the dimensions of the board sections during construction to ensure consistent joints between boards. 
Work Instruction ----- Construction Plan and Process of Light Steel Keel Gypsum Board Ceiling
(I) Material Purchase and Accessory Requirements 
1. Light steel frames are divided into U-shaped frames and T-shaped frames, and are divided into those for people who can walk on them and those who cannot, according to the load.
2. The main components of the light steel frame are large, medium and small keels; accessories include hanging parts, connectors and hanging plugs.
3. Spare parts: include hangers, turnbuckles, nails, self-tapping screws.
4. Various cover panels, aluminum or plastic mortise strips can be selected according to the design specifications, and their material types, specifications and quality should meet the design requirements.
5. Adhesive: should be selected according to the performance of the main material, and an adhesion test should be performed before use.
(II) Main tools
The main tools include: electric saw, toothed saw, nail gun, hand saw, hand planer, pliers, screwdriver, wrench, square, steel ruler, steel level, etc.
(III) Working Conditions
1. During structural construction, φ6~φ10 steel reinforcement hangers should be pre-embedded in the joints of cast-in-place or precast concrete slabs according to the design requirements
. If the design does not specify, the steel reinforcement hangers should be pre-embedded according to the arrangement of the main joists, generally at a spacing of 900~1200mm. 2. When the walls and columns of the suspended ceiling room are brick masonry, anti-corrosion wooden bricks should be pre-embedded along the perimeter of the walls and columns at the ceiling elevation, with a spacing of 900~1200mm along the walls. At least two wooden bricks should be embedded on each side of the columns.
3. After installing all kinds of pipelines and ventilation ducts in the ceiling, determine the positions of lights, ventilation openings, and various exposed openings.
4. All materials should be fully prepared.
5. Before installing the ceiling panels, the wet work on the walls and floors should be completed.
6. Erect the ceiling construction operation platform frame.
7. Before large-scale construction of the light steel frame ceiling, a sample room should be made. The arching degree of the ceiling, the construction treatment of the light trough and ventilation opening, the segmentation and fixing methods, etc. should be trial-assembled and approved before large-scale construction can proceed. 
(IV) Operating procedures
1. Process flow:
Marking lines → Installing main keel hangers → Installing main keel → Installing intermediate keel → Installing small keel → Installing cotton cover board → Installing pressure strips → Applying anti-rust paint
2. Marking lines: According to the floor elevation line, use a ruler to vertically measure to the ceiling design elevation, mark the ceiling elevation along the walls and columns, and mark the dividing position lines on the wall along the horizontal line of the ceiling elevation.
3. Installing main keel hangers: After marking the horizontal line of the ceiling elevation and the keel position line, determine the elevation of the lower end of the hanger, and connect and fix the end of the hanger without bolt threads to the pre-embedded steel bar of the floor slab according to the position of the main keel and the hanging spacing.
4. Installing main keel
①. 1. Install the hanger nuts.
2. Pre-install the hangers on the main keel.
3. Install the main keel: Assemble the main keel with the hangers, insert the hangers into the corresponding hanger nuts according to the spacing lines, and tighten the nuts.
4. Connect the main keels: Install the connectors, and adjust the elevation, arching, and straightness using a string line.
5. Install the additional main keel at the opening, and set the connecting clips according to the corresponding node structure in the drawings. 6.
Fix the edge keel using nails; the nail spacing is 1000mm when there are no design requirements.
5. Install the middle keel:
1. Place the middle keel hangers according to the marked middle keel spacing lines.
2. Hang the middle keel: Hang the middle keel on the main keel using the hangers according to the design-specified middle keel spacing; the spacing is generally 500~600mm when there are no design requirements.
3. When multiple keels need to be extended, use keel connectors to connect them while suspending the keels, and then straighten and fix them.
6. Installing the secondary keels:
①. Install the secondary keel hangers according to the marked secondary keel lines and spacing lines.
②. Suspend the secondary keels: According to the designed spacing, suspend the secondary keels on the keels using the hangers. If there are no design requirements, the spacing is generally 500~600mm.
③. When multiple keels need to be extended, use keel connectors to connect the opposite ends while suspending the secondary keels, and then straighten and fix them.
④. When using T-shaped keels to form a light steel frame, one secondary keel should be installed for each panel before installation.
7. Install the ceiling panels: Under the installed and inspected light steel frame, divide the ceiling into sections according to the panel specifications and joint gaps, marking lines as needed. Start by installing one row of panels from the center of the ceiling along the direction of the central keel, using this as a reference. Then install rows on both sides, fixing the panels with self-tapping screws spaced 200-300mm apart.
8. Apply anti-rust paint: For the light steel frame ceiling panels, the welded surfaces that have not been treated with anti-rust paint (such as embedded parts, hanging parts, connectors, nails, etc.) should be painted with anti-rust paint before handover. This process should
be carried out before sealing the ceiling panels.
(V) Quality standards
shall be implemented in accordance with Clauses 6.2.7 to 6.3.11 of GB-50210-2001.
(VI) Finished Product Protection
1. During the installation of the light steel frame and ceiling panels, care should be taken to protect various pipelines inside the ceiling. The hangers and keels of the light steel frame shall not be fixed to ventilation ducts or other equipment.
2. The light steel frame, ceiling panels, and other ceiling materials shall be strictly managed during storage and use to ensure that they do not deform, become damp, or rust.
3. Doors and windows already installed in the ceiling area, as well as completed floors, walls, and window sills, shall be protected to prevent damage.
4. People shall not step on the installed light steel frame, and other trades' hanging parts shall not be hung on the light steel frame.
5. In order to protect the finished product, the installation of the ceiling panels must be carried out after all processes such as piping, water testing, and insulation have been accepted inside the ceiling.
(VII) Quality Issues to Note:
1. Uneven Ceiling: This is caused by improper leveling of the hangers during the installation of the main keel, resulting in inconsistent elevations at each hanger point. During construction, the tightness of each hanger point should be checked, and a line should be connected to check whether the elevation and flatness meet the design and construction specifications.
2. Unreasonable Construction of Local Nodes in the Light Steel Frame: At openings, light fixture openings, ventilation openings, etc., the keel and connectors should be installed according to the corresponding node construction in the drawings to ensure that the construction meets the requirements of the drawings and design.
3. Insecure Fixing of the Light Steel Frame: The light steel frame of the ceiling should be suspended from the main structure, and the hanger nuts should be tightened to control the fixed design elevation; pipelines and equipment in the ceiling should not be suspended from the light steel frame.
4. Unstraight Gaps Between Panel Sections: During construction, pay attention to the panel specifications, use a string line for alignment, and ensure flatness and straightness during installation and fixing.
5. Loose and Uneven Joint Strips and Edge Strips: During construction, a string line should be used to align and then fix and press them together. 

Work Instruction - Wooden Frame Ceiling Panels
I. Material Requirements:
1. Timber: The timber for the frame should be kiln-dried, free of twisting, red and white pine; yellow pine is not permitted. The specifications of the timber joists should conform to the design requirements. If the design does not specify otherwise, the main joist should be 50mm*70mm or 50mm*100mm, the secondary joists 50mm*50mm or 40mm*60mm, and the hangers 50mm*50mm or 40mm*40mm.
2. Ceiling Panels and Strips: Selected according to the design, strictly adhering to material and specification standards.
3. Other Materials: Round nails, Φ6 or Φ8 bolts, nail guns, expansion bolts, adhesives, wood preservatives, and #8 galvanized iron wire.
II. Main Tools
: 1. Machinery: Small electric saw, small bench planer, electric drill.
2. Hand Tools: Wood planer, filigree planer, saw, axe, hammer, screwdriver, rotary drill, etc.
III. Working Conditions
1. All pipelines and ventilation ducts within the ceiling should be installed and the necessary permits obtained.
2. Wooden joists in direct contact with the structure should be pre-treated with preservatives.
3. For rooms with suspended ceilings, wet work on the walls and floors, as well as waterproofing of the countertops, must be completed.
4. A ceiling construction operation platform should be erected.
IV. Operating Procedures
1. Process Flow:
Ceiling elevation level line marked → Joist spacing lines marked → Water and electricity pipeline installation → Main joist installation → Secondary joist installation → Anti-corrosion treatment → Ceiling panel installation → Pressure strip installation
1) Marking lines: Based on the floor elevation level line, measure the ceiling design elevation along the wall height, mark the ceiling elevation level line around the perimeter of the wall, and mark the joist spacing lines on the surrounding elevation lines.
2) Installing main joists: Bend the pre-embedded steel bars into circular hooks, thread them with #8 galvanized iron wire or use Φ6-Φ8 bolts to fix the main joists, ensuring their design elevation. The arching of the ceiling should be in accordance with the design requirements. If there are no design requirements, it is generally 1/200-1/300 of the room span.
3) Installation of the joists
a. The bottom surface of the joists should be planed, smoothed, and the cross-sectional thickness should be consistent.
b. The spacing of the joists should be in accordance with the design requirements. If there are no design requirements, it should be determined according to the specifications of the ceiling panels, generally 400-500mm.
b. First, position and install the two continuous edge joists according to the dividing lines. After pulling the lines, fix each joist to the main joist with round nails using short hangers according to the arching elevation. The hangers should be staggered and should not be nailed on the same side of the joist. The joints of the continuous joists should be staggered and secured with double-sided plywood using staggered round nails. At least two nails should be nailed on each side of the joint.
c. Install the retaining joists: According to the elevation of the continuous joists, mark the dividing lines horizontally on the bottom surface of the continuous joists between two continuous joists, based on the segment size and joint requirements of the ceiling panels. Level the bottom and nail the retaining joists securely.
4) Anti-corrosion treatment: All exposed iron parts inside the ceiling must be coated with anti-corrosion paint before nailing the ceiling panels. The contact surface between the wooden frame and the structure should be treated with anti-corrosion measures.
5) Install pipeline facilities: After marking the ceiling elevation lines, water and electrical equipment pipelines inside the ceiling should be installed. Heavy loads should not be suspended from the ceiling joists.
6) Install ceiling panels: There are many types of ceiling panels installed on the bottom surface of the wooden frame. Construction should be carried out according to the design requirements for type, specifications, and fixing method. The ceiling panels are fixed to the wooden frame using wood screws.
V. Quality Standard
Acceptance Criteria.
VI. Finished Product Protection
1. During installation, care should be taken to protect all installed pipelines within the ceiling, the hangers of the wooden frame, and the keel. It is forbidden to fix the keel to ventilation ducts or other equipment.
2. Doors and windows already installed, as well as completed floors, walls, and window sills, should be protected to prevent damage.
3. Wooden frame materials, especially the cladding panels, should be properly managed during arrival, storage, and use to prevent deformation, moisture damage, and contamination.
VII. Quality Issues to Note
1. Uneven ceiling: Inaccurate elevation positioning during keel installation. A straight line should be used during construction to ensure the entire length of the keel is aligned with the arching requirements and accurately positioned.
2. Loose wooden frame: The connection method between the main keel and the hanging system, and the keel nailing method, should meet the requirements of design and construction specifications.
3. Uneven gaps between slab sections of the cladding stone, inconsistent widths. During construction, attention should be paid to the specifications of the slabs, their dimensions, and the correct installation position.
4. Joint strips and edge strips are not tight or straight: Position lines should be marked during construction. The joints of the stone slabs should be straight, and the joint strips should be tightly fitted to the stone slabs. 

Work Instruction ----- Marble and Granite Dry-Hanging Construction Plan and Process
I. Material Requirements
1. Stone: Determine the type, color, pattern, and size specifications of the stone according to design requirements, and strictly control and check its strength, water absorption rate, and other properties.
2. Expansion bolts, connecting iron parts, connecting stainless steel pins, and other matching iron plates, washers, nuts, and various connecting parts required for design and installation to fix to the frame must meet the requirements.
II. Main Tools
: Bench drill, toothed cutting saw, impact drill, hand drill, tape measure, straightedge, etc.
III. Working Conditions
1. Check the quality and performance of the stone to ensure it meets design requirements.
2. Erect scaffolding and conduct hidden inspections.
3. Plumbing and electrical equipment and other reserved parts have been installed.
4. Door and window works have been completed.
5. Provide technical instructions to the participating personnel.
IV. Operating Procedures
1. Process Flow
→ Clean the structural surface → Mark vertical lines on the structure → Hang two vertical steel wires at the corners 
→ Drill holes in the stone → Apply adhesive to the back → 
Apply flexible reinforcing material and mark horizontal positions → Support the bottom panel bracket → Place the bottom panel for positioning → Adjust and temporarily fix → Pour M20 cement → Install drainage pipes → Drill holes in the structure and insert fixing bolts →
Install stainless steel fasteners → Pour adhesive into the holes on the lower wall panel → Insert connecting steel pins → Pour adhesive into the lower holes of the upper wall panel
to temporarily fix the upper wall panel → Drill holes and insert expansion bolts → Install stainless steel fasteners → Install the top wall panel →
2. Site Receiving: A designated person is responsible for promptly handling any quality problems and for the proper stacking of stone materials on site.
3. Stone Preparation: Use colorimetry to select and classify the stone materials. Stone materials installed on the same surface should have the same color. Number the stones according to the design drawings and block order.
4. Base Preparation: Clean the structural surface of the pre-applied decorative stone materials, and simultaneously perform structural squaring, regularization
, and marking of vertical and horizontal lines. 5. Hanging
lines : According to the design drawings and actual needs
, before installing the stone, use a theodolite to mark the vertical control lines on the two sides of the corner. It is best to mark them 20cm away from the corner to check the accuracy of the vertical hanging lines at any time and ensure smooth installation. Mark the upper and lower parts of the control lines. 6. Erecting
the bottom decorative panel brackets: Place the pre-arranged brackets on the bottom stone slab to be installed according to the horizontal line. The brackets should be firmly supported and connected to each other. They can also be connected to the frame. After the brackets are installed, nail a 50mm thick wooden board along the direction of the brackets. The top edge of the wooden board should be on the same horizontal plane to ensure that the upper and lower surfaces of the stone are on the same horizontal plane.
7. Installing connecting iron parts: Fix the angle steel and flat steel plate with stainless steel bolts as specified in the design. Adjust the position of the flat steel plate so that the small hole of the flat steel plate is exactly aligned with the insertion hole of the stone slab. Fix the flat steel plate and tighten it with a wrench.
8. Installation of the bottom slab: After installing the connecting iron parts on the sides, the bottom panel can be positioned at the corner.
9. Adjustment and fixing: After the panel is temporarily fixed, adjust the levelness. If the top edge of the panel is not level, a corresponding double-strand copper wire pad can be placed on the connecting flat steel plate at one end of the bottom edge of the panel. Adjust the verticality and adjust the gap between the stainless steel connector at the top edge of the panel and the wall until the panel is vertical.
10. Installation of the top panel: In addition to following the general requirements for slab installation, after the last layer of the top panel is installed and adjusted, hang a 20mm thick wooden strip in the gap between the structure and the slab. The top of the wooden strip should be 250mm below the top edge of the slab. The hanging point can be set on the connecting iron parts. The wooden strip can be suspended with colored aluminum wire. After the wooden strip is hung, filler should be placed in the gap between the slab and the wall, and it should be filled tightly to prevent grout leakage during grouting.
11. Cleaning the marble and granite surface: Remove the anti-fouling strips on the surface of the marble and granite, and 
wipe the slab clean with cotton.
V. Finished Product Protection:
1. Clean promptly to remove any remaining dirt from door and window frames, glass, metal, and decorative panels.
2. Strictly adhere to a reasonable construction sequence, prioritizing tasks from a few trades to prevent damage or contamination of the exterior stone cladding.
3. When dismantling scaffolding and loading materials, strictly avoid collisions with the dry-hanging stone cladding.
4. After the exterior finish is completed, protect easily damaged edges with corner protectors. Other trades must avoid scratching the paint or damaging the stone during operations.
5. Completed exterior stone cladding should be supervised by designated personnel. Any actions that could harm the finished product should be immediately stopped and dealt with seriously.
VI. Quality Issues to Note:
1. Inconsistent color of the exterior stone cladding surface is mainly due to poor stone quality and the lack of trial assembly and careful selection during construction.
2. Uneven lines and uneven joints are mainly caused by failure to carefully check the actual dimensions of the structure according to the drawings before construction, as well as inadequate segmentation, insufficient marking of lines, crooked lines, and infrequent plumb line correction.
3. Inadequate caulking and grouting require careful application by operators and thorough inspection by inspectors.
4. Dirty walls and glue residue visible at an angle are caused by both the workmanship and the operator. Finished products should be protected more effectively, and thorough cleaning should be carried out before completion. 

Work Instructions – Wall Tile Installation
I. Construction Preparation
1. Material Requirements
1) Cement: 425 grade slag cement or ordinary Portland cement. A factory certificate or retest report should be available. If the cement is more than three months old, it should be used according to the test results.
2) White cement: 425 grade white cement.
3) Sand: Coarse or medium sand, sieved before use.
4) Facing bricks: The surface of facing bricks should be smooth, square, and flat; the texture should be solid, and the variety, specifications, size, color, and pattern should be uniform and consistent, and must meet the design specifications. There should be no defects such as missing edges, chipped corners, dark marks, or cracks. All performance indicators should meet the requirements of current national standards, and the water absorption rate of glazed bricks should not exceed 10%.
5) 107 glue and mineral pigments, etc.
2. Main tools
1) 5mm mesh sieve, window screen sieve, bucket, wooden trowel, iron trowel, straightedge, square, iron spirit level, mortar trough, mortar scoop, brush, wire brush, broom, hammer, white string, wiping cloth or cotton thread, steel blade opener, small mortar shovel, stone milling machine, grouting slurry, plumb bob, measuring tape, etc.
3. Working conditions
1) The wall surface should be cleaned, and window sills and window frames should be pre-built.
2) Select facing bricks according to their size and color, and store them separately for later use.
3) Before large-scale construction, a large-scale sample should be made and a sample wall should be constructed to determine the construction process and key points of operation. The construction personnel should be given a thorough briefing. After the sample wall is completed, it must be inspected and approved by the quality inspection department, and then jointly approved by the design, the client, and the construction unit before the work team can be organized to construct according to the sample wall requirements.
II. Operation Process
1. Process
Flow Base treatment → Hanging vertical lines, squaring, and finding the right dimensions → Applying mortar spots → Applying the base mortar → Marking lines for grid division → Laying bricks → Soaking bricks → Laying facing bricks → Grouting and cleaning facing bricks
2. Operation method when the base is a concrete wall
1) Base treatment: First, level the concrete protruding from the wall surface. For concrete
walls , roughen the surface and brush it with a wire brush, then moisten it with water. If the base concrete surface is very smooth, the following "roughening treatment" method can also be adopted: first, clean the surface dust and dirt, brush off the oil stains on the board surface with 10% caustic soda solution, then rinse off the alkali solution with clean water and let it dry. Then, use a 1:1 cement fine mortar mixed with 20% 107 glue by weight of water, spray or use a broom to throw the mortar onto the wall, and the mortar should be thrown evenly. After final setting, water curing is carried out until all the cement mortar lumps are adhered to the smooth concrete surface and have high strength (cannot be broken by hand).
2) Hanging vertical lines, squaring, finding the regularity, and setting mortar spots: set points and make mortar spots according to the specifications and dimensions of the facing bricks.
3) Applying the base coat of mortar: First, brush on a layer of cement slurry mixed with 10% water (107 adhesive by weight). Then, apply the base coat of mortar in layers (using a 1:3 cement mortar mix at room temperature). Each layer should be 5mm thick. After applying, smooth it with a wooden trowel and cure with water the next day. When the first layer is 60-70% dry, apply the second layer, about 8-12mm thick. Immediately smooth it with a wooden straightedge and roughen it with a wooden trowel. Cure with water the next day. If a third layer is needed, follow the same procedure as the second layer until the base coat of mortar is smooth.
4) Marking the grid lines: When the base coat is 60-70% dry, mark the grid lines according to the drawings. At the same time, mark the standard points on the surface layer to control the wall dimensions, verticality, and flatness.
5) Brick Laying: Lay bricks horizontally and vertically according to the detailed drawings and wall dimensions to ensure uniform brick gaps and meet the design requirements. Note that large wall surfaces should be covered with whole bricks, and no more than one row of non-whole bricks should be used in any horizontal or vertical arrangement on the same wall. Rows of non-whole bricks should be placed in less important areas, such as between windows or in corners. However, consistency and symmetry should still be maintained. If there are protruding pieces, whole bricks should be cut to fit them; non-whole bricks should not be randomly pieced together.
6) Soaking Bricks: Before laying glazed tiles and exterior wall tiles, clean the tiles thoroughly and soak them in clean water for at least 2 hours. Remove them and allow them to air dry or wipe them clean before use.
7) Laying Tiles: Laying should proceed from top to bottom. Start by aligning a straightedge with the bottom edge of the lowest layer of tiles to support the first layer. Draw a horizontal line along the top edge of the tile surface as a standard for laying.
For the back of the facing bricks, a 1:2 cement mortar should be used for tiling, with a mortar thickness of 6-10mm. After tiling, gently tap it with the handle of a mortar trowel to align it with the line, then use a steel trowel to adjust the vertical joints, and use a small lever to adjust the plane and verticality through the standard points. 
8) Tiling and grouting of facing bricks: When laying facing bricks, use 1:1 cement mortar for grouting, first grouting the horizontal joints and then the vertical joints. After grouting, it should be recessed 2-3mm from the outer surface of the facing brick. If the horizontal and vertical joints are dry-squeezed joints, or less than 3mm, use white cement mixed with pigment for grouting. After grouting the facing brick joints, wipe them clean with a cloth or cotton wool dipped in dilute hydrochloric acid.
III. Quality Standards
1. Guaranteed Items
1) The type, specifications, color, and pattern of the facing bricks must meet the design requirements and comply with the provisions of current standards.
2) The facing bricks must be firmly installed, without defects such as skewing, missing edges, chipped corners, and cracks.
2. Basic Items:
1) The surface is flat, clean, and uniform in color, without discoloration, efflorescence, stains, significant damage to gloss, or hollow areas.
2) Joints are filled tightly, straight, and uniform in width and color; corners are correctly oriented; and non-whole bricks are used appropriately.
3) Cutting: Whole bricks are cut to fit perfectly, with neat edges; the thickness of wainscoting, facing bricks, and other protruding parts of the wall is consistent.
4) The slope for drainage is correct, and the drip line is straight.
3. Allowable deviation items are shown in the table below:
Allowable deviation items for outdoor facing tiles
No. Item Allowable deviation (mm) Inspection method
  Exterior wall facing tiles 
Glazed tiles 1 Verticality of facade 3 3 Check with a 2m plumb line and ruler
2 Surface flatness 2 2 Check with a 2m plumb line and feeler gauge
3 Squareness of external corners 2 2 Check with a 20cm square and feeler gauge
4 Straightness of joints 3 2 Check with a 5m string and ruler
5 Straightness of the top edge of the wainscoting 2 2 Check with a 5m string and ruler
6 Height difference of joints 1 1 Check with a short steel ruler and feeler gauge
IV. Finished product protection
1. Clean up any mortar residue on door and window frames promptly.
2. Strictly follow a reasonable construction sequence. Work for a few trades (plumbing, electrical, ventilation, equipment installation, etc.) should be done first to prevent damage to the facing tiles.
3. Paint should not be sprayed or dripped onto finished facing tiles. If the wall above the tiles is painted with exterior paint or terrazzo, it is advisable to apply the exterior paint or terrazzo first, then lay the tiles to avoid staining the wall. If the tiles must be laid first, measures such as applying paper or plastic film must be taken after completion to prevent staining.
4. Avoid bumping the wall.
V. Quality Issues to Note
1. Hollow Areas and Peeling
1) Due to low winter temperatures, the mortar freezes and is prone to peeling after thawing in the following spring. Therefore, a positive temperature should be maintained during tile laying.
2) Large deviations in the base surface, improper base treatment or construction, can easily lead to hollow areas and peeling of the surface layer.
3) Inaccurate mortar mix ratios, poor consistency control, excessive mud content in the sand, and using several different mix ratios of mortar on the same construction surface will result in different drying shrinkage, also causing hollow areas. 1. **Adding an appropriate amount of 107 adhesive to the mortar for tiling enhances adhesion.** Strictly follow the process, emphasizing base treatment and self-inspection. Inspect each tile individually;
any hollow areas should be reworked immediately. 2. **Uneven wall surface:** This is mainly due to poor geometric dimension control during structural construction, resulting in large deviations in the verticality and flatness of the exterior wall surface. Insufficient base treatment before decoration is also a contributing factor. Strengthen the inspection of the base preparation work; only proceed to the next step after it is deemed satisfactory.
3. **Uneven and crooked joints:** This is mainly caused by failure to carefully check the actual structural construction according to the drawings before construction, coupled with inaccurate segmentation and tiling lines, insufficient control points for mortar application, large deviations in tile dimensions, improper tile selection during construction, and other improper operations.
4. **Dirty wall surface:** This is mainly caused by failure to promptly wipe away mortar and other contaminants after grouting. Use cotton wool dipped in diluted hydrochloric acid with 20% water to scrub the surface, then rinse with tap water. Simultaneously, strengthen the protection of finished products. 

Work Instruction - Glass Installation
I. Material Requirements
The type, specifications, and color of glass and glass bricks should meet the design requirements, and their quality should comply with the relevant product standards.
1. Main Tools
Generally required: workbench, glass cutter, ruler, steel tape measure (3m), wooden folding ruler, wire cutters, flat chisel, putty knife, wooden-handled hammer, square ruler, cotton thread or wiping cloth, paintbrush, tool bag, long safety belt, etc.
2. Working Conditions
1) Glass should be installed after the door and window hardware has been installed and inspected, and before the final coat of paint is applied.
The installation of glass partitions should also follow the above regulations.
2) Before formally installing glass on doors and windows, check for twisting or deformation. If any defects are found, they should be repaired before installation.
3) Before installation, glass should be pre-cut according to the design requirements or actual measured dimensions. Cut glass should be stacked in a safe place according to different specifications and installation sequence for later use.
For semi-finished products that have been centrally processed and are brought to the site, a few pieces should be selected specifically to verify the dimensions and allowances of the incoming materials. The length and width should each be reduced by 1/4 of the cut width. Generally, the top and bottom allowances for each piece of glass are 3mm, and the width allowance is 4mm. There should be no bevels or gaps on the edges. The cutting of aluminum alloy frames and sashes should conform to the national standard for the matching dimensions between glass and glass frames, and meet the design and installation requirements.
4. Operating Process
1) Process Flow
Glass selection and cutting → Sorting and stacking by specifications → Cleaning before installation → Installing glass →
Pressing moldings and applying glass glue
2) Glass selection and cutting: Cut the glass to be installed according to the parts, specifications, and quantities. Stack the cut glass according to specifications. The quantity delivered should be based on the quantity to be installed on the same day, and should not be too much to reduce handling and glass loss.
3) Installing Glass: After the glass is leveled and pressed firmly, nails are driven into all four sides. After nailing, gently tap the glass; a solid sound indicates proper installation. If a rattling sound is heard, the glass must be removed, and the base layer must be properly prepared before reinstalling.
4) When installing stained or patterned glass, it should be carefully cut according to the design pattern. Joints must fit perfectly, and misalignment, looseness, or warping is not permitted.
5) When installing patterned or frosted glass, the patterned side of the patterned glass should face outwards, and the frosted side of the frosted glass should face inwards.
6) When installing glass partitions, there should be a suitable gap at the top of the upper frame to prevent structural deformation and damage to the glass.
7) After glass installation, clean the area, removing putty, nails, wire clips, and wooden strips. Close all doors and windows.
8) Winter construction should be carried out indoors where glass has already been installed, and the temperature should be above positive. The temperature difference between the storage room for glass and the work surface should not be too large. If glass is transported from an excessively cold or hot environment to the work site, it should be installed only after its temperature is close to the indoor temperature. If conditions permit, pre-cut glass should be transported to the work site in advance.
II. Quality Standards
1. Guaranteed Items
1) The type, specifications, color, orientation, and installation method of the glass must meet the design requirements and relevant standards.
2) The glass cutting dimensions are correct, and the installation must be flat, firm, and without any looseness.
2. Basic Items
1) The putty base is full, the putty is firmly bonded to the glass and the cut edges, the edges are flush with the cut edges, the four corners are V-shaped, the surface is smooth, and there are no cracks, pitting, or wrinkles.
2) The number of nails or wire clips used to fix the glass should meet the construction specifications, the specifications should meet the requirements, and they should not be exposed on the putty surface.
3) 木压条镶钉应与裁口边沿紧贴齐平，割角整齐，连接紧密，不露钉帽。
4) 橡皮垫与裁口、玻璃及压条紧贴，整齐一致。
5) 玻璃砧排列位置正确，均匀整齐，嵌缝应饱满密实，接缝均匀平直。
6) 彩色玻璃、压花玻璃拼装的图案，颜色应符合设计要求，接缝吻合。
7) 玻璃安装后，表面应洁净，无油灰、浆灰、密封膏、涂料等斑污，有正反面的玻璃安装的朝向应正确。
三、成品保护 
1. 凡已经安装完门窗玻璃的工程，必须派专人看管维护，每日应按时开关门窗，尤其在风天，更应注意，以减少玻璃的损坏。
2. 门窗玻璃安装后，应随手挂好风钩或插上插销，防止刮风损坏玻璃，并将多余的和破碎的玻璃及时送库或清理干净。
3. 对于面积较大、造价昂贵的玻璃，宜在工程交验之前安装，如需要提前安装时，应采取妥善保护措施，防止损伤玻璃造成损失。
4. 玻璃安装时，操作人员要加强对窗台及门窗口抹灰等项目的成品保护。
一、 应注意的质量问题
1. 基层处理不符合要求：用手指敲弹玻璃时有响声，在基层施工时，认真操作并仔细检查。
2. 木压条、钢丝卡子、橡皮垫等附件安装应经过挑选，防止出现变形，影响玻璃美观，污染的斑痕要及时擦净。 作业指导书------木窗帘盒、金属窗帘杆安装
一、材料要求 
1. 木材及制品：一般采用红、白松及硬杂木干燥料，含水率不大于12%，并不得有裂缝、扭曲等现象；通常由木材加工厂生产半成品或成品，施工现场安装。
2. 五金配件：根据设计选用五金配件，窗帘轨等。
3. 金属窗帘杆：一般设计指定图号、规格和构造形式等。
二、主要机具
1. 手电钻，小电动台锯。
2. 木工大刨子、小刨子、槽刨、小木锯、螺丝刀、凿子、冲子、钢锯等。
三、作业条件
有吊顶采用暗窗帘盒的房间，吊顶施工应与窗帘盒安装同时进行。
四、操作工艺 
1. 工艺流程
定位与划线→预埋件检查和处理→核查加工品→安装窗帘盒（杆）
2. 定位与划线：安装窗帘盒、窗帘杆，应按设计图要求进行中心定位，弹好找平线，找好构造关系。
3. 预埋件检查和处理：找线后检查固定窗帘盒（杆）的预埋固定件的位置、规格、预埋方式是否能满足安装固定的要求，对于标高、平度、中心位置、出墙距离有误差的应采取措施进行处理。
4. 核查加工品：核对已进场的加工品，安装前应核对品种、规格、组装构造是否符合设计及安装的要求。
5. 窗帘盒（杆）安装：
1) 安装窗帘盒：先按平线确定标高，划好窗帘盒中线，安装时将窗帘盒中线对准窗口中线、盒的靠墙部位要贴严、固定方法按个体设计。
2) 安装窗帘轨：窗帘轨有单、双或三轨道之分。当窗宽大于1200mm时，窗帘轨应断开，断开处煨弯错开，煨弯应平缓曲线，搭接长度不小于200mm。明窗帘盒一般先安轨道。重窗帘轨应加机螺丝；暗窗帘盒应后安轨道。重窗帘轨道小角应加密间距，木螺丝规格不小于30mm。轨安装后保持在一条直线上。
3) 窗帘杆安装：校正连接固定件，将杆或铁丝装上，拉于固定件上。做到平、正同房间标高一致。
五、 质量标准
1. 保证项目 
1) 木窗帘盒制品的树种、材质等级、含水率和防腐处理必须符合设计要求和现行《木结构工程施工及验收规范》的规定。 
2) 木窗帘盒及窗帘轨安装必须牢固、无松动现象。
3) 窗帘杆的选材必须符合设计规定的规格，支固件必须牢固。
2. 基本项目
1) 制作尺寸正确，表面平直光滑，棱角方正，线条顺直，不露钉帽，无戗槎、刨痕、毛刺、锤印等缺陷。
2) 安装位置正确，两端伸入尺寸一致，接缝严密，出墙尺寸一致，轨道及杆平直。
六、 成品保护
1. 安装时不得踩踏暖气片及窗台板，严禁在窗台板上敲击撞碰以防损坏。
2. 窗帘盒安装后及时刷一道底油漆，防止抹灰、喷浆等湿作业时受潮变形或污染。
3. 窗帘杆或铅丝防止刻痕，加工品应妥善保管，防止受潮造成变形。
七、 应注意的质量问题
1. 窗帘盒安装不平、不正：主要是找位、划尺寸线不认真，预埋件安装不准，调整处理不当。安装前做到划线正确，安装量尺必须使标高一致、中心线准确。
2. 窗帘盒两端伸出的长度不一致：主要是窗中心与窗帘盒中心相对不准，操作不认真所致。安装时应核对尺寸使两端长度相同。
3. 窗帘轨道脱落：多数由于盖板太薄或螺丝松动造成。 一般盖板厚度不宜小于15mm；薄于15mm的盖板应用机螺丝固定窗帘轨。
4. 窗帘盒迎面板扭曲：加工时木材干燥不好，入场后存放受潮，安装时应及时刷油漆一遍。
 

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title:
Work Instruction - Wooden Door and Window Installation
I. Material Requirements 
1. Wooden Doors and Windows (including screen doors and windows): Wooden door and window frames and sashes supplied by the timber processing plant must be inspected and qualified products with a certificate of conformity. Before arrival, a comprehensive inspection of the model, quantity, and processing quality of the door and window sashes should be conducted (including the size of gaps, the smoothness of joints, the correctness of geometric dimensions, and the flatness of the doors and windows). The moisture content of the wood before door and window frame fabrication should not exceed 12%, and the manufacturer should strictly control this.
2. Preservative: Sodium fluorosilicate, with a purity of not less than 95%, a moisture content of not more than 1%, and a fineness requirement that all parts pass through a 1600-mesh/cm² sieve. Alternatively, diluted cold primer should be applied to the wood-wall contact areas for preservative treatment.
3. Nails, wood screws, hinges, bolts, handles, hooks, door locks, etc., should be prepared according to the small hardware models, types, and accessories listed in the door and window drawings.
4. For wooden blocks and embedded parts pre-installed in different lightweight walls, they should meet the design requirements.
II. Major tools and equipment
generally include rough planers, fine planers, rabbet planers, single-line planers, saws, hammers, axes, screwdrivers, stringers, chisels, feeler gauges, plumb bobs, red thread, ink, wood drills, small electric saws, carrying boards, brooms, etc.
III. Working conditions:
1. Before installing door and window frames and sashes, check for any warping, twisting, bending, or splitting. If any of these are found, repair them first.
2. The side of the door and window frames that touch the ground should be coated with anti-corrosion paint. All other surfaces and sashes should be coated with a coat of clear oil. After painting, stack them neatly and evenly, with the bottom layer leveled and raised. Place wooden strips between each layer of frames and sashes for ventilation. If stored outdoors, cover with tarpaulins to prevent sun and rain exposure.
3. Before installing exterior windows, check the vertical alignment from top to bottom to determine the window frame position. Correct any misalignments. 4. For window installation and debugging, the +50cm horizontal line should be marked in advance, and the installation position should be marked on the wall.
5. The door frame should be installed according to the dimensions in the drawings, and attention should be paid to the direction of the cut when installing according to the opening direction requirements in the drawings. The installation height should be controlled according to the indoor 50cm horizontal line.
6. The installation of door and window frames should be carried out before plastering. The installation of door and window sashes should preferably be carried out after plastering is completed. If the window sash must be installed first, care should be taken to protect the finished product to prevent collision and contamination.
IV. Operating procedures
1. Process flow:
Find the rules and mark the lines to find the installation position of door and window frames → cover the sash and install the template → install the window frame and sash → install the door frame → install the door sash
2. Find the rules and mark the lines: After the structural engineering has been verified and approved, a plumb line can be used to check the accuracy of the window position from the top floor, and the ink line should be marked on the wall. If the structure of the door and window opening protrudes from the window frame line, it should be chiseled.
1) The installation height of the window frame should be checked according to the indoor +50cm horizontal line to ensure that the window frame is installed at the same elevation.
2) The exterior and interior door frames should be installed according to the location and elevation shown in the drawings. The number of wooden blocks should be set reasonably according to the height of the door, and each wooden block should be nailed with two 10cm long nails, with the nail heads flattened and driven into the wooden block to ensure the door frame is firmly installed.
3) Lightweight partition walls should have pre-installed concrete blocks with wooden blocks to ensure the firmness of the door and window installation.
3. Hooding and Installation Templates: Installing the window sashes onto the window frames according to the drawings is called hooding. The quality of the hoods should be checked according to the inspection and evaluation standards, including the size of the gaps, the position of the hardware, the dimensions, and the firmness. Those that meet the standard requirements are used as templates, which serve as the acceptance standard and basis.
4. Marking Lines for Window Frame Installation: The thickness of the plaster layer should be considered when installing the window frame and sashes. The installation position lines should be drawn on the wall according to the door and window dimensions, elevation, position, and opening direction. For doors and windows with facings, the frame should be flush with the plaster surface. For windows with precast terrazzo slabs, attention should be paid to the projection dimensions of the window sill onto the wall to determine the position of the frame. For neutral exterior windows, if the exterior wall is a grouted brick wall, it can be slightly moved to cover the vertical joints of the brick wall.
The installation elevation of the window frame should be based on a +50cm horizontal line marked on the wall. Use wooden wedges to temporarily fix the frame in the window opening. To ensure the straightness of the frame with adjacent window frames, a small line should be stretched along the bottom of the window frame for alignment. Use a spirit level to guide the horizontal line into the opening as a standard for installing the frame, and then use a plumb line to correct and plumb it straight. Before installing the pine window frame, drill holes in the wooden blocks to facilitate nailing.
5. Door Frame Installation
1) Wooden Door Frame Installation: This should be completed before the ground construction. The door frame installation should be secure. The door frame should be nailed to the wooden blocks, generally with no less than 2 points of fixation on each side, and the spacing should not exceed 1.2m. If the partition wall is made of aerated concrete panels, holes with a spacing of 45mm and a depth of 7-10cm should be reserved as required. Wooden pegs should be embedded in the holes and 107 adhesive cement grout should be added to the holes (the diameter of the wooden pegs should be 1mm larger than the hole diameter to ensure they are firmly driven in). The door frame should be installed after the grout has solidified.
2) Steel door frame installation:
5. Before installation, ensure the frame is square to prevent deformation during transportation and installation, and apply anti-rust paint in advance.
6. The door frame should be installed according to the design requirements, horizontal elevation, and plane position, and attention should be paid to protecting the finished product.
7. When sealing the door, iron parts should be pre-embedded according to the design requirements, and at least two fixing points should be installed on each side according to the specifications, with a spacing of no more than 1.2m.
8. Install the steel door frame in the position shown in the diagram, check the model, elevation, and position to ensure they are correct, and promptly weld the iron parts on the frame to the pre-embedded iron parts in the structure.
6. Installation of Wooden Doors
1) First, determine the opening direction of the door, the model and installation position of the small hardware, and the opening direction of the rabbet of the double door leaf. Generally, the right leaf is the overhanging leaf.
2) Check if the doorway size is correct, if the corners are square, and if there are any misaligned corners; check the doorway height by measuring both sides of the door; check the doorway width by measuring the top, middle, and bottom of the doorway and marking the corresponding points on the leaf.
3) Place the door leaf against the frame and draw the corresponding dimension lines. If the leaf is too large, the excess part should be planed off according to the frame size. If the leaf is too small, add wooden strips, glue and nail them firmly, flatten the nail heads and drive them into the wood 1-2mm.
4) After the first planing, the door leaf should be able to fit into the doorway. After fitting it in, use wooden wedges to temporarily fix it. According to the appropriate size of the gap between the door leaf and the doorway, draw the second planing line and mark the position of the hinge groove (1/10 of the distance from the top and bottom of the door leaf, avoiding the top and bottom rails). At the same time, attention should be paid to the flatness of the door frame and the door leaf.
5) After the door leaf is planed a second time and the gap size is appropriate, the hinges should be installed. The width of the hinge should be marked with a string first. According to the requirement of 1/10 of the top and bottom edges, the hinge installation edge line should be nailed. The length of the hinge should be measured from the top and bottom edges inward. When chiseling the hinge groove, a line should be left. It should not be chiseled too large or too deep.
6) After the hinge groove is chiseled, the top and bottom hinges should be installed. When installing, one screw should be tightened first. Then close the door to check whether the gap is appropriate and whether the door frame and the door leaf are flat. Only after there are no problems can all the screws be tightened. Wood screws should be driven into 1/3 of their full length and 2/3 of their full length. If the door and window are made of yellow pine or
other hardwoods, holes should be drilled before installation. The diameter of the hole should be 0.9 times that of the wood screw, and the depth of the hole should be 2/3 of the screw length. Drill the hole before tightening the screw to prevent splitting or screw breakage during installation.
7) Installing double doors: Measure the width of each door leaf to determine the depth of the rabbet joint. If using tongue and groove joints, the rabbet joint depth and direction should meet the lock installation requirements. Then, plane the surrounding area to the accurate dimensions.
8) Hardware installation should be done according to the design drawings without omission. Generally, door locks, door catches, and handles should be 95-100cm from the ground. The bolt should be below the handle. When installing concealed bolts on double doors, the installation process is the same as for swing doors. Door locks should not be installed at the junction of the center rail and the door sill.
9) When installing glass doors, the glass rabbet is generally inside the corridor, while the glass rabbet for kitchens and bathrooms is inside the room.
10) Doors are prone to hitting the wall when opened. To fix the door leaf position, a door stopper should be installed. For doors with special requirements, a door opener should be installed. Refer to the product installation instructions for installation methods.
V. Finished Product Protection 
1. Generally, wooden door frames should be protected with sheet metal after installation, with the height centered on the axle of a handcart. If door frame installation is carried out simultaneously with the structure, measures should be taken to prevent the door frame from colliding or shifting and deforming. For high-grade hardwood door frames, 1cm thick wooden strips should be nailed on for protection to prevent impacts, damage to the cut edges, and affecting installation.
2. When planing doors and windows, wooden clamps should be used to prop them up and
secure them to prevent damage to the door edges. 3. After door and window frames arrive on site, they should be properly stored. They should be stored in a warehouse, raised 20-40cm off the ground and leveled. They should be stacked neatly in the order of use. When temporarily stored outdoors, they should be covered with tarpaulins to prevent rain.
4. The side of wooden door and window frames facing the wall should be treated with wood preservative. Steel doors and windows should be promptly painted with anti-rust paint to prevent rusting.
5. When installing door and window sashes, handle them gently to prevent damage to the finished product. Do not pry open doors and windows during repairs to avoid damaging the sash material and hardware.
6. When installing door and window sashes, take care to prevent collisions with plastered corners and other finished decorations.
7. If hardware cannot be installed immediately after installation, a designated person should be responsible for its management to prevent damage to doors, windows, and glass during windy conditions.
8. Window frames and sashes must not be used as support points for scaffolding to prevent damage from falling scaffold boards.
9. Hardware installation should conform to the drawings. After installation, the finished product should be protected, and it should be covered during spraying to prevent contamination.
10. After the door sash is installed, handcarts should not be used indoors to prevent collisions.
VI. Quality Issues to Note 
1. Door frames with facing are not level with the plastered surface after installation: The main reason is that the thickness of the plaster layer was not properly controlled during the erection process.
2. Inaccurate dimensions of door and window openings: The gaps around the door and window frames after installation are too large or too small; the dimensions of the door and window openings are inaccurate during masonry, resulting in uneven allowances; there are significant deviations when using a string line to ensure proper alignment during masonry work. Generally, the top edge of the installed door and window frame should be 10-15mm lower than the window lintel, and the bottom edge of the window frame should be 5mm higher than the top edge of the windowsill.
3. Loose door and window frame installation: Insufficient number of embedded wooden blocks or loose wooden blocks; using wooden blocks directly instead of precast concrete blocks with embedded wooden blocks in half-brick walls leads to loosening due to drying shrinkage. Precast concrete partitions should have embedded wooden blocks during precasting to ensure a secure installation of the door and window frames. The number and spacing of these wooden blocks must meet the requirements.
4. Uneven hinges, loose screws, exposed nuts, missing screws, and uneven hinge groove depth: Screws are driven in too far or at an angle during installation. Screws should be driven in 1/3 and screwed in 2/3 during installation, without tilting. If a knot is encountered during installation, a hole should be drilled at the knot, a wooden plug inserted, and the screw tightened. Care should be taken not to miss any screws.
5. Doors and windows on upper and lower floors are not straight, and the installation of left and right doors and windows does not match the lines. Openings are misaligned: This is because the required lines were not drawn before installation, the vertical lines were not properly installed, and the 50cm string line was not used during installation. To solve this problem, the contractor must follow the process requirements, draw lines before installation, prepare a sample, and only proceed with full installation after verification that it meets the requirements. 
Work Instruction - Polyurethane Waterproof Coating for Bathrooms and Toilets
I. Material Requirements 
1. Polyurethane waterproof coating material (two-component) should have a factory certificate of conformity and should be used only after passing a retest.
Component A is a polyurethane prepolymer containing terminal isocyanate groups, made from polyether resin and diisocyanate, etc., through polymerization and reaction. It is a light yellow, viscous substance, packaged in 20kg drums.
Component B is made from a mixture of curing agent, accelerator, toughening agent, mildew inhibitor, filler, and thinner. It comes in red, black, white, yellow, and brown, and is a paste-like substance packaged in 40kg drums.
II. Main Equipment 
1. Generally, the following should be available: an electric mixer (0.3-0.5KW, 200-500r/min), a mixing drum (10L capacity), a paint bucket (3L), plastic or rubber scrapers, a roller brush, a paint brush, a spring scale, and a dry powder fire extinguisher.
III. Working Conditions
1. The substrate surface to be coated with the waterproof layer must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Any remaining mortar lumps and protrusions should be leveled, swept clean, and plastered. Corners should be rounded or obtuse.
2. The substrate surface to be coated with the waterproof layer should be dry, flat, and firm, free from defects such as hollow areas, cracks, and sandblasting.
3. At the leveling layer, the edges of drains, pipe roots, water outlets, and sanitary ware bases (edges) must be smoothly finished. The slope must meet design requirements, and components must be securely installed and tightly sealed. Inspection is required.
4. For protruding pipe roots, drains, drainage outlets, and internal/external corners, additional layers should be applied first. After applying polyurethane primer, inspection and acceptance of concealed works must be completed.
5. All materials used in the waterproofing layer, including primers and xylene, are flammable. Storage and handling must be kept away from fire sources. Smoking is strictly prohibited during construction.
6. Waterproofing layer construction must not be carried out in rainy or windy weather. The ambient temperature for winter construction should not be lower than 5℃.
IV. Operating Procedures
1. Process Flow
: Clean the base surface → Detail treatment → Prepare the primer → Apply the primer (equivalent to cold primer) → Apply the intermediate layer for details → First coat → Second coat → Third coat for waterproofing →
First water test of the waterproofing layer → Apply the protective and finishing layer → Second water test of the waterproofing layer → Acceptance of the waterproofing layer
2. Before applying the waterproofing layer, clean the dust and other debris from the base surface and wipe it once with a clean, damp cloth.
3. The base surface to be coated with the waterproofing layer must be free of defects such as unevenness, looseness, hollowness, sandiness, and cracks, and the moisture content should generally not exceed 9%.
4. Apply the primer (equivalent to cold primer):
1) Prepare the primer by adding polyurethane component A and component B to xylene in a ratio of 1:1.5:2 (by weight) and stirring thoroughly. The amount prepared should be determined according to the specific situation and should not be excessive.
2) Apply the primer: Apply the primer mixture prepared as described above evenly to the substrate surface using a long-handled roller. The application rate is 0.15-0.2 kg/m². After application, in normal temperature seasons, wait 4 hours until the mixture is no longer sticky to the touch before proceeding to the next step.
5. Waterproofing membrane construction: The polyurethane waterproofing material consists of polyurethane component A, polyurethane component B, and xylene, mixed in a ratio of 1:1.5:0.2 (by weight).
1) During construction, the mixing ratio of the waterproofing membrane material must be accurately measured, and it must be vigorously mixed using an electric mixer.
2) Additional layer construction: Before applying the main waterproofing layer to areas such as floor drains, pipe roots, water outlets, sanitary ware roots (edges), and internal and external corners, apply a two-layer waterproofing layer of fabric and oil, pressing a 200mm joint on each side. For applying the waterproofing material, the specific requirements are: after it is surface dry at room temperature for 4 hours, apply the second coat of waterproofing material. After it is fully dry for 24 hours, large-area waterproofing layer construction can begin.
3) Waterproofing layer: First coat: Apply the prepared polyurethane waterproofing material evenly to the base surface that has been primed using a plastic or rubber scraper. The dosage is 0.8 kg per square meter. There should be no missed areas or bubbles. After 24 hours of curing, the second coat can be applied.
Second coat: On the cured coating, apply the second coat evenly to the surface in a direction perpendicular to the first coat. The amount of material applied is the same as the first coat. There should be no missed areas or bubbles. After 24 hours of curing, apply the third coat according to the above formula and method. The amount of material applied should be 0.4-0.5 kg/m². The total thickness of the three coats is 1.5 mm. Conduct the first water test. If leakage occurs, repair it until leakage does not occur.
In addition to the above-mentioned brushing methods, a long-handled roller brush can also be used to apply four coats in mutually perpendicular directions. If conditions permit, spraying can also be used, but the thickness and uniformity must be well controlled. For areas that are difficult to spray, touch-ups should be applied after the coating is completely dry.
4) Before the construction of the waterproof coating layer, relevant personnel should be organized to conduct a thorough technical and material briefing. After the waterproof layer is completed, a water retention test of more than 24 hours should be conducted. If no seepage or leakage is found, it is considered合格 (qualified). Then, the concealed works inspection and acceptance should be carried out before handing over to the next construction
stage. 6. Problems encountered during construction should be handled as follows:
1) If the paint viscosity is found to be too high and difficult to apply, a small amount of xylene can be added for dilution. The amount added should not exceed 10% of component B.
2) If the paint cures too quickly, affecting construction, a small amount of phosphoric acid or benzenesulfonyl chloride retarder can be added. The amount added should not exceed 0.5% of component A.
3) If the coating cures too slowly, affecting construction, a small amount of dibutyltin dilaurate can be added as a curing accelerator. The amount added should not exceed 0.3% of component A.
4) If the waterproof coating is still sticky after 24 hours of application and applying a second coat is difficult, a layer of talcum powder can be applied first. This will prevent foot sticking and will not affect the coating quality.
If sedimentation is found in component B, it should be stirred evenly before mixing with component A; otherwise, the coating quality will be affected.
V. Quality Standards
1. Guaranteed Items
1) The technical performance of the waterproof coating material and non-woven fabric must meet the design requirements and relevant standards. Products should be accompanied by a certificate of conformity and waterproof material quality certification. On-site sampling and testing are required. Waterproof materials that are not certified or fail retesting must not be used.
2) The polyurethane waterproof coating and its details must meet the design requirements and construction specifications, and there should be no water leakage.
2. Basic Requirements:
1) The base layer of the polyurethane waterproof coating should be firm, clean, and flat, with rounded or obtuse angles at inside and outside corners.
2) The application method, overlap, and termination of the polyurethane primer and additional polyurethane coating should comply with
regulations, and should be firmly and tightly bonded, with sealed seams and no defects such as damage or hollow areas.
3) The polyurethane waterproof coating should be applied evenly, with the protective layer and waterproof layer firmly bonded, and should not have any defects such as damage or uneven thickness.
VI. Finished Product Protection
1. Protective measures should be taken promptly for the applied polyurethane waterproof coating. Before the protective layer is in place, do not wear shoes with nails to enter or leave the room to avoid damaging the waterproof layer.
2. The waterproof layer around protruding pipe roots, floor drains, drainage outlets, sanitary ware, etc., should not be damaged, and components should not be displaced.
3. Floor drains, drainage outlets, etc., should be kept unobstructed. During construction, prevent debris from falling in, and clean them thoroughly after water testing.
4. During the construction of the polyurethane waterproof coating, no one should walk on it before it has cured to avoid damaging the waterproof layer and causing potential leaks.
5. During the construction of the polyurethane waterproof coating, care should be taken to protect doorways, walls, and other areas to prevent contamination of the finished product.
VII. Quality Issues to Note
1. Hollow Areas: Hollow areas in the waterproof layer generally occur between the leveling layer and the waterproof coating, and at joints. This is caused by excessive moisture content in the substrate, leading to air bubbles in the coating. Moisture content should be controlled during construction, and the process
should be carried out carefully. 2. Leaks: Leaks in the waterproof layer often occur at pipe penetrations through the floor slab, floor drains, sanitary ware, and corners. This is caused by loose pipe penetrations, poor adhesion of floor drains, inadequate coating, or localized damage to the waterproof layer, or insufficient overlap at the joints of components. These areas should be carefully inspected and repaired before the waterproof coating is applied. 
Work Instruction - Standard Construction Process for Marble and Granite Flooring
I. Construction Preparation 
1. Materials and Main Tools
1) The variety and specifications of natural marble and granite should meet the design requirements. Technical grade, gloss, and appearance quality requirements should comply with the national standards "Natural Marble Building Slabs" and "Granite Building Slabs".
2) Cement: Silicate cement, ordinary Silicate cement, or slag Silicate cement, with a grade not less than 425.
White cement: White Silicate cement, with a grade not less than 425.
3) Sand: Medium or coarse sand, with a mud content not exceeding 3%.
4) Mineral pigments (for grouting), wax, oxalic acid. 5
) Main tools: shovel, straightedge, bucket, trowel, ink line, steel tape measure, nylon line, rubber mallet (or wooden mallet), grinding machine.
2. Working Conditions
1) After the marble and granite slabs arrive on site, they should be stacked upright indoors with the polished surfaces facing each other, with pine strips placed under the back of the slabs, and wooden blocks placed underneath. 1 ) Carefully check whether the variety, specifications, and quantity meet the design requirements. Any items with cracks, missing edges, chipped corners, warping, or surface defects should be discarded.
2) Interior plastering (including doorways), floor screed, electrical conduits embedded in the screed, and pipes penetrating the floor have all been completed.
3) A +50cm horizontal line has been marked on the walls around the room.
4) A detailed construction drawing of the marble flooring should be drawn before construction begins.
5) The operating temperature during winter construction must not be lower than 5℃.
II. Operating Procedures 
1. Process Flow
: Preparation → Trial Assembly → Marking Lines → Trial Layout → Applying Cement Slurry and Laying Mortar Bonding Layer → Laying Marble Slabs (or Granite Slabs) → Grouting and Wiping → Waxing
2. Preparation: 
1) Based on the detailed construction drawings and processing orders, familiarize yourself with the dimensions and methods of each part, and clarify the relationships between openings, corners, and other parts.
2) Substrate Preparation: Clean the surface layer of debris, brush off any mortar adhering to it with a wire brush, and sweep thoroughly.
3) Trial Assembly: Before formal installation, trial assemble the marble (or granite) slabs in each room according to pattern, color, and texture. Place non-whole slabs symmetrically against the walls. After trial assembly, number them in two directions and then stack them neatly according to the numbers.
4) Marking Lines: To check and control the position of the marble (or granite) slabs, draw cross control lines in the room, marking them on the concrete substrate and extending them to the bottom of the walls. Then, based on the +50cm elevation line on the wall, determine the surface elevation and mark a horizontal elevation line on the wall. Ensure the indoor and stairwell surface elevations are consistent when marking the horizontal line.
5) Trial Laying: Lay two strips of dry sand in two mutually perpendicular directions within the room. The width of the sand strips should be greater than the width of the slabs, and the thickness should be no less than 3cm. Based on the detailed construction drawings and the actual dimensions of the room, arrange the marble (or granite) slabs to check the gaps between the slabs and verify their relative positions to the walls, columns, openings, etc.
6. Apply cement slurry and lay a mortar bonding layer: After a trial lay, remove the dry sand and slabs, clean the area, moisten with water, and apply a layer of cement slurry (water-cement ratio of 0.4-0.5; do not apply to too large an area, apply as you lay the mortar). Determine the thickness of the bonding layer mortar according to the horizontal line of the slab surface, draw cross control lines, and begin laying the dry-hardened cement mortar bonding layer (generally using a 1:2-1:3 dry-hardened cement mortar; the consistency should be such that it can be formed into a ball by hand but crumbles upon impact). The thickness should be controlled so that it is 3-4mm higher than the horizontal line of the surface layer when the marble (or granite) slabs are placed on top. After laying, use a screed to level it, and then use a trowel to compact and level it (the laid area should not be too large).
7. Laying Marble (or Granite) Slabs:
1) The slabs should be soaked in water first, and then wiped dry or allowed to air dry before laying.
2) Lay one row each horizontally and vertically according to the cross control lines drawn in the room, as guide lines for large-area paving. Based on the numbering, pattern, and gaps (the width of the gap between slabs should not exceed 1mm if not specified in the design) from the trial assembly, begin laying at the intersection of the cross control lines. First, perform a trial laying: lift the slab, align it with the longitudinal and transverse control lines, and place it on the pre-laid dry, hardened mortar bonding layer. Tap the wooden support board with a rubber mallet (do not directly tap the slab with a rubber mallet or wooden mallet) to compact the mortar to the laying height. Then, lift the slab and move it aside to check if the mortar surface and the slab fit together. If any voids are found, fill them with mortar. Then, proceed with the formal laying:
first, pour a full layer of neat cement slurry with a water-cement ratio of 0.5 (sprinkle evenly using a slurry pot) on the cement mortar bonding layer, then lay the slab, lowering all four corners simultaneously. Lightly tap the wooden support board with a rubber mallet or wooden mallet, and level it with a spirit level according to the horizontal line. After laying the first slab, lay the slabs sequentially to the sides and backwards. After laying the longitudinal and transverse sections, a standard is established, and the slabs can be laid in sections and zones sequentially. Generally, it is advisable to work from the inside out of the room, gradually moving backwards towards the doorway for better protection of the finished product, but care must be taken to coordinate with the corridor. Alternatively, paving can begin from the doorway and proceed inwards. The slabs should be tightly fitted to the corners, edges, and against the wall, without any gaps.
8. Grouting and Cleaning: Grouting and cleaning should be carried out 1-2 days after the slabs are laid. Based on the color of the marble (or granite), select the same color mineral pigment and mix it evenly with cement (or white cement) to create a 1:1 diluted cement slurry. Slowly pour this slurry into the gaps between the slabs using a slurry pot (this can be done in several stages), and use a long-handled scraper to scrape the excess slurry back into the gaps until they are basically filled. 1-2 hours after grouting, use a cotton ball dipped in the original diluted cement slurry to smooth the grout and the slab surface, while simultaneously wiping the cement slurry off the slab surface. This ensures the marble (or granite) surface is clean, flat, and firm. After completing these steps, cover the surface. The curing time should not be less than 7 days.
9. Waxing: Waxing can only be carried out after the cement mortar bonding layer has reached its strength (compressive strength reaches 1.2 MPa).
10. Based on the +50cm elevation line of the main wall, measure the horizontal line of the top edge of the skirting board, mark it on the wall, and then use a plumb line to determine the thickness of the skirting board protruding from the wall, generally 8-10mm.
III. Quality Standards
1. Guaranteed Items
1) The type, specifications, grade, shape, smoothness, color, and pattern of the surface tiles used must meet the design requirements.
2) The surface layer and the base layer must be firmly bonded, without hollow areas.
2. Basic Items
1)
Polished Marble and Granite Slab Surface Layer: Slabs should be tightly pressed together without gaps, joints should be straight without misalignment, the surface should be flat and clean, the pattern should be clear without scratches, and the edges should be straight and square.
2) Slab Installation Quality: The color should be consistent in any independent space, and the pattern should be smooth and basically consistent. The grout lines should be consistent with the color of the slabs, the grout lines should be full and flush with the slabs, clean and aesthetically pleasing.
IV. Finished Product Protection
1. When transporting marble (or granite) slabs and cement mortar, measures should be taken to prevent collisions with completed walls, doorways, etc.
2. During the laying of marble (or granite) slabs and mosaic marble slabs, the operator should wipe away any cement slurry residue on the marble surface with a dry cloth immediately after laying.
3. When walking on marble (or granite) floors, the compressive strength of the leveling layer cement mortar must not be less than 1.2 MPa.
4. After the marble (or granite) floor is completed, the room should be enclosed or its surface covered for protection.
V. Quality Issues to Note
1. Hollow Areas: Hollow areas can easily occur due to factors such as unclean concrete subfloor, insufficient wetting, uneven application of cement slurry, excessive application area, prolonged drying time, arbitrary addition of water to dry cement mortar, and loose soil on the marble slab surface that has not been soaked in water. Therefore, it is essential to strictly adhere to the operating procedures. The base layer must be thoroughly cleaned, the bonding layer mortar must not be watered, a layer of cement slurry should be applied immediately after laying, and the marble slabs must be soaked in water before laying.
2. Uneven joint height and width: The main reasons are defects in the slabs themselves, such as uneven thickness and width, warping, and lack of strict control during laying. These factors easily lead to uneven joint height and width. Therefore, slabs should be strictly selected beforehand; any warped, arched, or irregularly shaped slabs should be rejected. After laying the standard slabs, they should be laid sequentially to the sides and backwards, constantly checking for accuracy with a level and straightedge. The joints must be aligned without deviation. A designated person should be responsible for establishing the elevation lines within the rooms, and the elevations in all rooms and corridors must be consistent.
3. Slabs are prone to movement near doorways: Generally, slabs are laid from inside the door frame, leaving the gap between the door frame and the corridor (within the wall width) to be laid later. Entering too early in this area can easily cause movement. When ordering and processing slabs, the dimensions of the slabs should be considered simultaneously, and processing should be carried out concurrently to facilitate simultaneous installation of the slabs for the stairwell floor. 

Work Instruction - Tile Floor Construction Process Standards
I. Construction Preparation 
1. Materials and Main Tools
1) Cement: Silicate cement, ordinary Silicate cement; its grade should not be lower than 425, and mixing different types and grades of cement is strictly prohibited.
2) Sand: Medium or coarse sand, passed through an 8mm sieve, its mud content should not exceed 3%.
3) Tiles must have a factory certificate of conformity; compressive strength, flexural strength, and specifications must meet design requirements; appearance and color must be consistent; surface must be flat (cement tiles must have a flat, smooth surface and correct patterns); edges and corners must be neat, without warping or shifting.
4) Oxalic acid, caustic soda, 107 glue, etc., must all have factory certificates of conformity.
5) Main tools: buckets, shovels, trowels, long levers, sieves, window screen sieves, hammers, rubber mallets, squares, marble cutters.
2. Working conditions:
1) The +50cm horizontal elevation line on the interior walls has been marked and verified.
2) Wall plastering, roof waterproofing, and door frames have been installed.
3) The ground screed and all embedded pipelines have been completed. Vertical pipes passing through the floor have been installed, and pipe holes have been sealed tightly. Rooms with floor drains should have proper drainage.
4) Prepare brick selection in advance. Use wooden strips to create a square frame (according to brick specifications). After unpacking, select each brick individually. Length, width, and thickness should not exceed ±1mm. Flatness should be checked with a ruler and should not exceed ±0.5mm. Remove boards with cracks, chipped corners, or surface defects. Select bricks by pattern and color and stack them separately.
II. Operating Procedures 
1. Process
Flow Base Treatment → Leveling and Marking Lines → Applying Leveling Mortar → Marking Brick Laying Control Lines → Brick Laying → Grouting and Cleaning → Curing → Skirting Board Installation
1) Base Treatment: Clean up debris from the concrete base and remove fallen mortar with a chisel. Clean the loose mortar layer with a wire brush. If there is oil on the base, clean it with 10% caustic soda solution and rinse it off with clean water immediately.
2) Leveling and Marking Lines: Measure the surface elevation downwards from the +50cm horizontal elevation line on the wall and mark it on the wall.
3) Applying Leveling Mortar:
a. Wetting with Water: Spray water evenly onto the cleaned base using a spray bottle.
b. Applying mortar spots and leveling strips: Measure from the marked horizontal line of the surface layer to the elevation of the top layer of the leveling layer (surface layer elevation minus brick thickness and adhesive layer thickness). Apply mortar spots at 1.5m intervals. The top of the mortar spots is the elevation of the cement mortar leveling layer. Then, start applying leveling strips (also called screed strips) from one side of the room. In rooms with floor drains, apply leveling strips radially from all sides towards the drain, ensuring proper slope. Use dry-hard mortar for applying mortar spots and leveling strips, with a thickness not less than 2cm.
c. Laying the mortar between the leveling strips: Clean away any remaining mortar residue from the leveling strips, and apply a coat of cement slurry (water-cement ratio 0.4-0.5) as a bonding layer. Lay the mortar immediately after applying the cement slurry. Then, according to the elevation of the guide strips, use a small shovel or wooden trowel to lay the mixed cement mortar (mixing ratio 1:3-1:4) between the guide strips. Spread and compact it with a wooden trowel, scrape it smooth with a small wooden bar, and then rub it flat with another wooden trowel to ensure the mortar is level with the guide strips. Use a large wooden bar to check its flatness horizontally and vertically, and simultaneously check its elevation and slope for correctness. Water curing is performed after 24 hours.
4) Marking brick laying control lines: When the compressive strength of the leveling layer mortar reaches 1.2 MPa, begin marking the brick laying control lines. Determine the joint width of the brick slabs in advance according to the design requirements and brick slab specifications. When the design does not specify, the joint width for tightly laid slabs should not exceed 1 mm, and the joint width for loosely laid slabs should be 5-10 mm.
Divide the room into two dimensions, longitudinal and transverse. When the dimensions are less than a multiple of the number of whole bricks, use the non-whole bricks at the corners. The first row, parallel to the doorway, should be made of whole bricks, with the non-whole bricks placed against the wall. Longitudinally (perpendicular to the doorway), the room should be centered, with the non-whole bricks symmetrically placed along the two walls. Based on the determined number of bricks and joint width, mark the longitudinal and transverse control lines on the ground (mark one control line every four bricks).
5) Laying bricks: To find the right position and elevation, start from the doorway and lay 2-3 rows of bricks longitudinally. Use these as guide lines to draw the longitudinal and transverse horizontal elevation lines. Lay bricks from the inside out, and do not step on the newly laid bricks. Each brick should be aligned with the line. The procedure is as follows:
a. Before laying, soak the brick slabs in a half-filled bucket of water to moisten them. They can only be used when there is no standing water on the surface after drying.
b. Moisten the leveling layer with water, then evenly apply neat cement slurry (water-cement ratio 0.4-0.5). Do not apply too large an area; apply only what is needed for the area
to be covered. c. Bonding layer thickness: 10-15mm when using cement mortar, 2-5mm when using asphalt binder, and 2-3mm when using adhesive.
d. Mixing of bonding layer materials: When using asphalt binder and adhesive, in addition to following the manufacturer's instructions, the mix ratio should be determined through laboratory testing. Mix thoroughly, ensuring no lumps remain. Do not mix too much at once, and use within the specified time. If using cement mortar as the bonding layer, the mix ratio should be 1:2.5 (cement:sand) dry-hard mortar. It should also be mixed and used immediately before initial setting to prevent affecting the bonding quality.
e. When laying bricks, apply adhesive mortar with the back of the brick facing upwards, and lay it on the prepared cement slurry leveling layer. The top edge of the brick should be slightly higher than the horizontal elevation line. After aligning, straightening, and squaring, place a wooden board on top of the brick and tamp it firmly with a rubber mallet. Lay the bricks sequentially from the inside out, ensuring the mortar is full, the joints are tight, and the bricks are firm. At the junction with
the drain, use an abrasive saw to shape the brick to fit the drain. It is best to lay one room at a time when laying floor tiles. For large-area construction, it should be done in sections and parts. f. Jointing and finishing: After laying 2 to 3 rows, the straightness of the joints should be checked with a line. If it exceeds the specification, it should be repaired immediately by straightening the joints and tamping it firmly with a rubber mallet. This work should be completed before the bonding layer sets.
6) Grouting and sealing: Grouting and sealing work should be carried out within 24 hours of laying the surface layer, and the same type, grade, and color of cement should be used.
a. 勾缝：用1:1水泥细砂浆勾缝，缝内深度宜为砖厚的1/3，要求缝内砂浆密实、平整、光滑。随勾随将剩余水泥砂浆清走、擦净。
b. 擦缝：如设计要求不留缝隙或缝隙很小时，则要求接缝平直，在铺实修整好的砖面层上用浆壶往缝内浇水泥浆，然后用干水泥撒在缝上，再用绵纱团擦揉，将缝隙擦满。最后将面层上的水泥浆擦干净。
7) 养护：铺完砖24h后，洒水养护，时间不应少于7d。
8) 镶贴踢脚板：踢脚板用砖，一般采用与地面块材同品种、同规格、同颜色的材料，踢脚板的立缝应与地面缝对齐，铺设时应在房间墙
面两端头阴角处各镶贴一块砖，出墙厚度和高度应符合设计要求，以此砖上楞为标准挂线，开始铺贴，砖背面朝上抹粘结砂浆（配合比为1:2水泥砂浆），使砂浆粘满整块砖为宜，及时粘贴在墙上，砖上楞要跟线并立即拍实，随之将挤出的砂浆刮掉，将面层清擦干净（在粘贴前，砖块材要浸水晾干，墙面刷湿润）。
三、质量标准
1. 各种面层所用的板块品种、质量必须符合设计要求。
四、成品保护
1. 在铺砌板块操作过程中，对已安装好的门框、管道都要加以保护，如门框钉保护铁皮，运灰车采用窄车等。
2. 切割地砖时，不得在刚铺砌好的砖面层上操作。
3. 当铺砌砂浆抗压强度达1.2Mpa时，方可上人进行操作，但必须注意油漆、砂浆时要对面层进行覆盖保护。
五、应注意的质量问题
1. 板块空鼓：基层清理干净、洒水湿润不均、砖未浸水、水泥浆结合层刷的面积过大风干后起隔离作用、上人过早影响粘结层强度等等因素，都是导致空鼓的原因。
踢脚板空鼓原因，除与地面相同外，还因为踢脚板背面粘结砂浆量少未抹到边，造成边角空鼓。
2. 踢脚板出墙厚度不一致：由于墙体抹灰垂直度、平整度超出允许偏差，踢脚板镶贴时按水平线控制，所以出墙厚度不一致。因此在镶贴前，先检查墙面平整度，进行处理后再进行镶贴。
3. 板块表面不洁净：主要是做完面层之后，成品保护不够，油漆桶放在地砖上、在地砖上拌合砂浆、刷浆时不覆盖等，都造成面层被污染。
4. 有地漏的房间倒坡：做找平层砂浆时，没有按设计要求的泛水坡度进行弹线找坡。因此必须在找标高、弹线时找好坡度，抹灰饼和标筋时，抹出泛水。
5. 地面铺贴不平，出现高低差：对地砖未进行预先选挑，砖的薄厚不一致造成高低差，或铺贴时未严格按水平标高线进行控制。 
作业指导书------地毯铺设
一、材料要求 
1. 地毯的品种、规格、主要性能和技术指标必须符合设计要求。应有出厂合格证明。
2. 胶粘剂：无毒、不霉、快干、0.5h之内使用张紧器时不脱缝，对地面有足够的粘结强度、可剥离、施工方便的胶粘剂，均可用于地毯与地面、地毯与地毯宫接拼缝处的粘结。一般采用天然乳胶添加增稠剂、防霉剂等制成的胶粘剂。
3. 倒刺钉板条：在1200mm*24mm*6mm的三合板条上钉有两排斜钉（间距为35-40mm），还有五个高强钢钉均匀分布在全长上（钢钉间距约400mm左右，距两端各约100mm左右）。
4. 铝合金倒刺条：用于地毯端头露明处，起固定和收头作用。多用在外门口或其他材料的地面相接处。
5. 铝压条：宜采用厚度为2mm左右的铝合金材料制成，用于门框下的地面处，压住地毯的边缘，使其免于被踢起或损坏。
二、主要机具
1. 裁毯刀、裁边机、地毯撑子（大撑子撑头、大撑子承脚、小撑子）、扁铲、墩拐、手枪钻、割刀、剪刀、尖嘴钳子、漆刷橡胶压边滚筒、熨斗、角尺、直尺、手锤、钢钉、小钉、吸尘器、垃圾桶、盛胶容器、钢尺、合尺、弹线粉袋、小线、扫帚、胶轮轻便运料车、铁簸箕、棉丝和工具袋、拖鞋等。
三、作业条件
1. 在地毯铺设之前，室内装饰必须完毕。室内所有重型设备均已就位并已调试，运转，并经核验全部达到合格标准。
2. 铺设楼地面毯的基层，要求表面平整、光滑、洁净，如有油污，须用丙酮或松节油擦净。如为水泥楼面，应具有一定的强度，含水率不大于8%。
3. 地毯、衬垫和胶粘剂等进场后应检查核对数量、品种、规格、颜色、图案等是否符合设计要求，如符合应按其品种、规格分别存放在干燥的仓库或房间内。用前要预铺、配花、编号，待铺设计按号取用。
应事先把需铺设地毯的房间、走道等四周的踢脚板做好。踢脚板下口均施工工艺
应离开地面8mm左右，以便将地毯毛边掩入踢脚板下。
4. 大面积施工前应先放出施工大样，并做样板，经质检部门鉴定合格后方可组织按样板要求施工。
四、操作工艺
1. 工艺流程
基层处理→弹线、套方、分格、定位→地毯剪裁→钉倒刺板挂毯条→铺设衬垫→铺设地毯→细部处理及清理
2. 活动式铺设：是指不用胶粘剂粘贴在基层的一种方法，即不与基层固定的铺设，四周沿墙角修齐即可。一般仅适用于装饰性工艺地毯的铺设。
3. 固定式铺设操作工艺：
1) 基层处理：铺设地毯的基层，一般是水泥地面，也可以是木地板或其他材质的地面。要求表面平整、光滑、洁净，如有油污，须用丙酮或松节油擦净。如为水泥地面，应具有一定的强度，含水率不大于8%，表面平整偏差不大于4mm。
2) 弹线、套方、分格、定位：要严格按照设计图纸对各个不同部位和房间的具体要求进行弹线、套方、分格，如图纸有规定和要求明，则严格按图施工。如图纸没具体要求时，应对称找中并弹线便可定位铺设。
3) 地毯剪裁：地毯裁剪应在比较宽阔的地方集中统一进行。一定要精确测量房间尺寸，并按房间和所用地毯型号逐一登记编号。然后根据房间尺寸、形状用裁边机断下地毯料，每段地毯的长度要比房间长出2cm左右，宽度要以裁去地毯边缘线后的尺寸计算。弹线裁去边缘部分，然后以手推裁刀从毯背裁切，裁好后卷成卷编上号，放入对号房间里，大面积房厅应在施工地点剪裁拼缝。
4) 钉倒刺板挂毯条：沿房间或走道四周踢脚板边缘，用高强水泥钉将倒刺板钉在基层上（钉朝向墙的方向），其间距约40cm左右。倒刺板应离开踢脚板面8-10mm，以便于钉牢倒刺板。
5) 铺设衬垫：将衬垫采用点粘法刷107胶或聚醋酸乙烯乳胶，粘在地面基层上，要离开倒刺板10mm左右。 
6) 铺设地毯：
a. 缝合地毯：将裁好的地毯虚铺在垫层上，然后将地毯卷起，在接接处缝合。缝合完毕，用塑料胶纸贴于缝合处，保护接缝处不被划破或勾起，然后将地毯平铺，用弯针在接缝处做绒毛密实的缝合。
b. 位伸与固定地毯：先将毯的一条长边固定在倒刺板上，毛边掩到踢脚板下，用地毯撑子拉伸地毯。拉伸时，用手压住地毯撑，用膝撞击地毯撑，从一边一步一步推向另一边。如一遍未能拉平，应重复拉伸，直至拉平为止。然后将地毯固定在另一条倒刺板上，掩好毛边。长出的地毯，用裁割刀割掉。一个方向拉伸完毕，再进行另一个方向的拉伸，直至四个边都固定在倒刺板上。
c. 铺粘地毯时，先在房间一边涂刷胶粘剂后，铺放已预先裁割的地毯，然后用地毯撑子，向两边撑拉；再沿墙边刷两条胶粘剂，将地毯压平掩边。
7) 细部处理清理：要注意门口压条的处理和门框、走道与门厅，地面与管根、暖气罩、槽盒，走道与卫生间门坎，楼梯踏步与过道平台，内门与外门，不同颜色地毯交接处和踢脚板等部位地毯的套割与固定和掩边工作，必须粘结牢固，不应有显露、后找补条等破活。地毯铺设完毕，固定收口条后，应用吸尘器清扫干净，并将毯面上脱落的绒毛等彻底清理干净。
五、质量标准
1. 保证项目
1) 各种地毯的材质、规格、技术指标必须符合设计要求和施工规范规定。
2) 地毯与基层固定必须牢固，无卷边、翻起现象。
2. 基本项目
1) 地毯表面平整，无打皱、鼓包现象。
2) 拼缝平整、密实，在视线范围内不显拼缝。
3) 地毯与其他地面的收口或交接处应顺直。
4) 地毯的绒毛应理顺，表面洁净，无油污物等。
六、成品保护
1. 要注意保护好上道工序已完成的各分项分部工程成品的质量。在运输和施工操作中，要注意保护好门窗框扇，特别是铝合金门窗框扇、墙纸踢脚板等成品不遭损坏和污染。应采取保护和固定措施。
2. 地毯等材料进场后要注意贵重物品的堆放、运输和操作过程中的保管工作。应避免风吹雨淋、防潮、防火、防人踩、物压等。应设专人加强管理。
3. 要注意倒刺板挂毯条和钢钉等使用和保管工作，尤其要注意及时回收和清理截断下来的零头、倒刺板、挂毯条和散落的钢钉，避免发生钉子扎脚、划伤地毯和把散落的网钉铺垫在地毯垫层和面层下面，否则必须返工取出重铺。
4. 要认真贯彻岗位责任制，严格执行工序交接制度。凡每道工序施工完毕就应及时清理地毯上的杂物和及时清擦被操作污染的部位。并注意关闭门窗和关闭卫生间的水龙头，严防雨水和地毯泡水事故。
5. 操作现场严禁吸烟，吸烟要到指定吸烟室。应从准备工作开始，根据工程任务的大小，设专人进行消防、保卫生成品保护监督，给他们佩戴醒目的袖章并加强巡查工作，同时要发证严格控制非工作人员进入。
七、应注意的质量问题
1. 压边粘结产生松动及发霉等现象：地毯、胶粘剂等材质、规格、技术指标，要有产品出厂合格证，必要时做复试。使用前要认真检查并事先做好试铺工作。
2. 地毯表面不平、打皱、鼓包等：主要问题发生在铺设地毯这道工序时，未认真按照操作工艺缝合、拉伸与固定、用胶粘剂粘结固定要求去做所致。
3. 拼缝不平、不实：尤其是地毯与其他地面的收口或交接处，例如门口，过道与门厅、拼花或变换材料等部位往往容易出现拼缝不平、不实。因此在施工时要特别注意上述部位的基层本身接槎是否平整，如严重者应返工处理，如问题不太大可采取加衬垫的方法用胶粘剂把衬垫粘牢，同
时要认真把面层和垫层拼缝处的缝合工作做好，一定要严密、紧凑、结实，并满刷粘结剂粘牢固。
4. 涂刷胶粘剂时由于不注意往往容易污染踢脚板、门框扇及地弹簧等，应认真精心操作，并采取轻便可移动的保护挡板或随污染随时清擦等措施保护成品。
5. 暖气炉片、空调回水和立管根部以及卫生间与走道间应设有防水坎等，防止渗漏将已铺设好的地毯成品泡湿损坏。此事在铺设地毯之前必须解决好。 

作业指导书------活动地板
一、 材料要求
1. 活动地板的品种和规格由设计人确定，并在施工图中示明。采购时一定要按照设计要求购买配套系列的合格产品。
2. 活动地板面层承载力不应小于7.5Mpa，系统电阻应为105-1010Ω。板块面应平整、坚实，并具有耐磨、防潮阻燃、耐污染、耐老化和导静电等特点，技术性能应符合现行国家标准。
3. 环氧树脂胶、滑石粉、泡沫塑料条、木条、橡胶条、铝型材和角铁、铝型角铁等材质要符合要求。
二、 主要机具
1. 水平仪、铁制水平尺、铁制方尺、2-3m靠尺板、墨斗或粉线包、小线、线坠、扫帚、盒尺、钢尺、钉子、铅丝、红铅笔、油刷子、开刀、吸盘、手推车、铁簸箕、小铁锤、合金钢扁钻子、裁改板面用的圆盘锯、切割铝型材无齿锯、刀锯、木工用刨子和斧子、磅秤、钢丝钳子、小木桶、棉丝、小方锹、铁制螺丝扳子、工具袋、泡沫塑料拖鞋等。
三、 作业条件
1. 首先按照设计图纸要求，事先把要铺设活动地板的基层做好（大多是水泥地面或现制水磨石地面等），基层表面应平整、光洁、不起尘，含水率不大于8%。安装前应清扫干净，必要时，在其面上涂刷绝缘脂或油漆。
房间平面如是矩形，其相邻墙体必须相互垂直。
2. 安装活动地板面层，必须待室内各项工程完工和超过地板面承载的设备进入房间预定位置之后，方可进行，不得交叉施工；也不得在房间内加工。相邻房间内部也应全部完工。
3. 架设活动地板面层前，要检查核对地面面层标高，应符合设计要求。将室内四周的墙划出面层标高控制水平线。
4. 大面积架设前，应先放出施工大样，并做样板间，经质检部门鉴定合格后方可组织并按样板间标准要求施工。
四、 操作工艺
1. 工艺流程
基层处理与清理→找中、套房、分格、定位弹线→安装固定可调支架和引条→铺设活动地板面层→清擦和打蜡
2. 基层处理与清理：活动地板面层的骨架应支承在现浇混凝土上抹水泥砂浆地面或水磨石楼地面基层上，其基层表面应平整、光洁、不起尘土，含水率不大于8%。安装关应认真清擦干净，必要时，在其面上涂刷绝缘
脂或清漆。
3. 找中、套方、分格、定位、弹线：根据房间平面尺寸和设备布置等情况，按活动地板模数选择板块铺设方向，具体有以下几种情况：
1) 如室内无控制柜等设备，平面尺寸又符合板块模数时，宜由内向外铺设。
2) 如室内平面尺寸不符合板块模数时，应把室内2个方向平面中心线找出来。看两面尺寸相差多少，若相差的不明显宜由外向内铺设；如相差较大时，宜进行对称对格，幅度内向外铺设。
3) 如室内有控制柜等设备要留洞口时，其铺设方向和先后顺序应综合考虑选定。
根据上述选铺方法确定之后，就要进行找中、套方、分格、定位、弹线工作。既要把面层分格线弹划在室内四周墙面上（又叫面板位置控制线，便于施工操作控制用），又要把分格线弹在基层上面，而且要尺寸正确、上下交圈对口，形成方格网并标明设备预留部位（此时应插入铺设活动地板下的管线要注意避开已弹好标志的支架座）。
4) 安装固定可调支架和行条：首先要事先检查复核原室内四周墙面上弹划出的标高控制线，按选定的铺设方向和顺序确定铺设基准点，然后按基层已弹好和标出的位置在方格网交点处安放可调支座，架上横梁转动支座螺杆，先用小线和水平尺调整支座面高度至全室等高，待所有钢支柱和横梁构成框架一体后，应用水平仪抄平，钢支柱底座与底层面之间的空隙应灌注环氧树脂连接牢固。
5) 铺设活动地板面层：首先检查活动地板面层下铺设的电缆、管线，确保无误后才能铺设活动地板面层。
6) 清擦和打蜡：如不是交通要道或由于安装工艺的特殊要求未完的房间外，可进行清擦地板面层和涂擦地板蜡工作。当局部沾污时，可用汽油、酒精或皂水擦净并把门锁上。交通要道或工艺未完的房间，除即擦干净后，应先用塑料布满铺后用3mm以上的橡胶板盖上，待其全部工序完后再清擦打蜡交活。
五、 成品保护
1. 要注意保护好上道工序已完成的室内各分项分部工程成品的质量。在运输和施工操作中，要保护好门扇框扇、特别是铝合金门框扇和玻璃、墙纸、踢脚板等成品，应采取切实可行的保护和固定措施。
2. 活动地板等配套系列材料进场后，应设专人负责检查验收其规格、数量并做好保管工作，尤其在运输、装卸、堆放过程中要注意保护面板不受损坏。
3. 在整个地板安装过程中，要贯彻随污染随清擦，特别是环氧树脂和乳胶液体，应及时清擦干净。严防污染成品。
4. 在已经铺设好的地板上行走或作业,应穿泡沫塑料拖鞋或干净胶鞋,不能穿带有金属钉的鞋子,更不能用锐物、硬物在地板表面拖拉、划擦及敲击。
5. 凡进行设备安装前，必须注意采取保护面板的措施，一般应铺设3mm厚以上的橡胶板，上垫五层胶合板作临时性保护措施。
6. 安装设备时应观察支撑情况，如属于框架支撑、可随意码放；如是四点支撑，则应尽量靠近板框；如设备重量超过地板规定荷 载时，应在板下部增设一个地板支撑架。但在临时运输道路和堆放地点，必须采取保护面板措施，其接触面也不应太小，一般应铺设5mm厚以上的橡胶板，上垫5cm脚手板作临时性保护措施。
7. 为保证地板面层清洁，可涂擦地板蜡，当局部沾污时，可用汽油、酒精或皂水等擦净。
六、 应注意的质量问题
1. 材质不符合要求：一定要把住活动地板等配套系列材质和技术性能入场关，必须符合设计、现行国家标准和规范的规定。要有产品出厂合格证，必要时要做复试。大面积施工前应进行试铺工作。
2. 面层高低不平：要严格控制好楼地面面层标高，尤其是房间与门口、走道和不同颜色、不同材料之间交接处的标高能交圈对口。
3. 交叉施工相互影响：在整个活动地板铺设过程中，要抓好以下两个关键环节和工序：一是当第二道操作工艺完成（即把基层弹好方格网）后，应及时插入铺设活动地板下的电缆、管线工作。这样既避免不应有的返工，同时又保证支架不被碰撞造成松动。二是当第三道操作工艺完成后，第四道操作工艺开始铺设活动地板面层之前，一定要检查面层下铺设的电缆、管线确保无误后，才铺设活动地板面层，以避免不应有返工。
4. 缝隙不均匀：要注意面层缝格排列整齐，特别要注意不同颜色的电缆、管线设备沟槽处面层的平直对称排列和缝隙均匀一致。
5. 表面不洁净：要重视对已铺设好的面层调整板块水平度和表面的清擦工作，确保表面平整洁净，色泽一致，周边顺直。 作业指导书------卫生洁具安装工艺标准
一、施工准备 
1. 材料要求
1) 卫生洁具的规格、型号必须符合设计要求；并有出厂产品合格证。卫生洁具外观应规矩、造型周正，表面光滑、美观、无裂纹，边缘平滑，色调一致。
2) 卫生洁具零件规格应标准，质量可靠，外表光滑，电镀均匀，螺纹清晰，锁母松紧适度，无砂眼、裂纹等缺陷。
3) 卫生洁具的水箱应采用节水型。
4) 其它材料：镀锌管件、皮钱截止阀、八字阀门、水嘴、丝扣返水弯、排水口、镀锌燕尾螺栓、螺母、胶皮板、铜丝、油灰、铅皮、螺丝、焊锡、熟盐酸、铅油、麻丝、石棉绳、白水泥、白灰膏等均应符合材料标准要求。
2. 主要机具
1) 机具：套丝机、砂轮机、砂轮锯、手电钻、冲击钻。
2) 工具：管钳、手锯、铁、布剪子、活扳手、自制死扳手、叉扳手、手锤、手铲、錾子、克丝钳、方锉、圆锉、螺丝刀、烙铁等。
3) 其它；水平尺、划规、线坠、小线、盒尺等。
3. 作业条件
1) 所有与卫生洁具连接的管道压力、闭水试验已完毕，并已办好隐预检手续。
2) 浴盆的稳装应待土建做完防水层及保护层后配合土建施工进行。
3) 其它卫生洁具应在室内装修基本完成后再进行稳装。
二、操作工艺 
1. 工艺流程
安装准备→卫生洁具及配件检验→卫生洁具安装→卫生洁具配件预装→卫生洁具稳装→卫生洁具与墙、地缝隙处理→卫生洁具外观检查→通水试验
2. 卫生洁具在稳装前应进行检查、清洗。配件与卫生洁具应配套。部分卫生洁具应先进行预制再安装。
三、成品保护
1. 洁具在搬运和安装时要防止磕碰。稳装后洁具排水口应用防护用品堵好，镀铬零件用纸包好，以免堵塞或损坏。
2. 在釉面砖、水磨石墙面剔孔洞时，宜用电钻或先用小錾子轻剔掉釉面，待剔至砖底灰层处方可用力，但不得过猛，以免将面层剔碎或震成空鼓现象。
3. 洁具稳装后，为防止配件丢失或损坏，如拉链、堵链等材料、配件应在竣工前统一安装。
4. 安装完的洁具应加以保护，防止洁具瓷面受损和整个洁具损坏。
5. 通水试验前应检查地漏是否畅通，分户阀门是否关好，然后按层段分房间逐一进行通水试验，以免漏水使装修工程受损。
6. 在冬季室内不通暖时，各种洁具必须将水放净。存水弯应无积水，以免将洁具和存水弯冻裂。
四、应注意的质量问题
1. 蹲便器不平，左右倾斜。原因：稳装时，正面和两侧垫砖不牢，焦渣填充后，没有检查，抹灰后不好修理，造成高水箱与便器不对中。
2. 高、低水箱拉、扳把不灵活。原因：高、低水箱内部配件安装时，三个主要部件在水箱内位置不合理。高水箱进水、拉把应放在水箱同侧。以免使用时互相干扰。
3. 零件镀铬表面被破坏。原因：安装时使用管钳。应采用平面扳手或自制扳手。
4. 坐便器与背水箱中心没对正，弯管歪扭。原因：划线不对中，便器稳装不正或先稳背箱，后稳便器。
5. 坐便器周围离开地面。原因：下水管口预留过高，稳装前没修理。
6. 立式小便器距墙缝隙太大。原因：甩口尺寸不准确。
7. 洁具溢水失灵。原因：下水口无溢水眼。
8. 通水之前，将器具内污物清理干净，不得借通水之便将污物冲入下水管内，以免管道堵塞。
严禁使用未经过滤的白灰粉代替白灰膏安装卫生设备，避免造成卫生设备胀裂。
作业指导书------开关、插座安装工艺标准
一、施工准备
1. 材料要求
1) 各型开关：规格型号必须符合设计要求，并有产品合格证。
2) 各型插座、规格型号必须符合设计要求，并有产品合格证。
3) 塑料(台)板：应具有足够的强度。塑料（台）板应平整，无弯翘变形等现象，并有产品合格证。
4) 木制（台）板：其厚度应符合设计要求和施工验收规范的规定。其板面应平整，无劈裂和弯翘变形现象，油漆层完好无脱落。
5) 其他材料：金属膨胀螺栓、塑料胀管、镀锌木螺丝、镀锌机螺丝、木砖等。
2. 主要机具：
1) 红铅笔、卷尺、水平尺、线坠、绝缘手套、工具袋、高凳等。
2) 手锤、錾子、剥线钳、尖嘴钳、扎锥、丝锥、套管、电钻、电锤、钻头、射钉枪等。
3. 作业条件
1) 各种管路、盒子已经敷设完毕。盒子收口平整。
2) 线路的导线已穿完，并已做完绝缘摇测。
3) 墙面的浆活、油漆及壁纸等内装修工作均已完成。
二、操作工艺
1. 工艺流程
清理→结线→安装
2. 清理
用錾子轻轻地将盒子内残存的灰块剔掉，同时将其它杂物一并清出盒外，再用湿布将盒内灰尘擦净。
3. 结线
1) 一般结线规定：
a. 开关结线
同一场所的开关切断位置一致，且操作灵活，接点接触可靠。
电器，灯具的相线应经开关控制。
多联开关不允许拱头连接，应采用LC型压接帽压接帽压接总头后，再进行分支连接。
b. 交、直流或不同电压的插座安装在同一场所时，应有明显区别，且其插庆与插座配套，均不能互相代用。
c. 插座箱多个插座导线连接时，不允许拱头连接，应采用LC型压接帽压接总头后，再进行分支线连接。
4. 安装开关、插座准备
先将盒内甩出的导线留出维修长度，削出线芯，注意不要碰伤线芯。将导线按顺时针方向盘绕在开关，插座对应的接线柱上，然后旋紧压头。如果是独芯导线，也可将线芯直接插入接线孔内，再用顶丝将其压紧。注意线芯不得外露。
1) 开关、插座安装：
a. 一般安装规定
开关安装规定：(a) 拉线开关距地面的高度一般为2-3m，距门口为150-200mm；且拉线的出口应向下。(b)扳把开关距地面的高度为1.4m，距门口为150-200mm；开关不得置于单扇门后。 (c)暗装开关的面板应端正、严密并与墙面平；(d)开关位置应与灯位相对应，同一室内开关方向应一致；(e)成排安装的开关高度应一致，高低差不大于2mm，拉线开关相领间距一般不小于20mm;(f)多尘潮湿场所和户外应选用防水瓷制拉线开关或加装保护箱；(g)在易燃、易爆和特别潮湿的场所，开关应分别采用防爆型、密闭型，或安装在其它处所控制；(h)民用住宅严禁装设床头开关；(i)明线敷设的开关应安装在不少于15mm厚的木台上。
b. 插座安装规定：(a)暗装和工业用插座距地面不应低于30cm；(b)在儿童活动场所应采用安全插座。采用普通插座时，其安装高度不应低于1.8m；(c)同一室内安装的插座高低差不应大于5mm；成排安装的插座高低差不应大于2mm；(d)暗装的插座应有专用盒，盖板应端正严密并与墙面平；(e)落地插座应有保护盖板；(f)在特别潮湿和有易燃、易爆气体及粉尘的场所不应装设插座。
2) 开关、插座安装
a. 暗装开关、插座：
按接线要求，将盒内甩出的导线与开关、插座的面板连接好，将开关或插座推入盒内（如果盒子较深，大于2.5m时，应加装套盒），对正盒眼，用机螺丝固定牢固。固定时要使面板端正，并与墙面平齐。
b. 明装开关、插座：
先将从盒内甩出的导线由塑料(木)台的出线孔中穿出，再将塑料(木)台紧贴于墙面用螺丝固定在盒子或木砖上，如果是明配线，木台上的隐线槽应先右对导线方向，再用螺丝固定牢固。塑料（木）台固定后，将甩出的相线、中性线、保护地线按各自的位置从开关、插座的线孔中穿出，按接线要求将导线压牢。然后将开关或插座贴于塑料（木）台上，对中找正，用木螺丝固定牢。最后再把开关、插座的盖板上好。
c. 开关、插座安装在木结构内，应注意做好防火处理。
三、质量标准
1. 保证项目
插座连接的保护接地线措施及相线与中性线的连接导线位置必须符合施工验收规范有关规定。
插座使用的漏电开关动作应灵敏可靠。
检验方法：观察检查和检查安装记录。
2. 基本项目：
1) 开关、插座的安装位置正确。盒子内清洁，无杂物，表面清洁、不变形，盖板紧贴建筑物的表面。
2) 开关切断相线。导线进入器具处绝缘良好，不伤线芯。插座的接地线单独敷设。
检验方法：观察和通电检查
3. 允许偏差项目
1) 明开关，插座的底板和暗装开关、插座的面板并列安装时，开关，
2) 插座的高度差允许为0.5mm。
3) 同一场所的高度差为5mm。
4) 面板的垂直允许偏差0.5mm。
检验方法：吊线、尺量检查。
四、成品保护
1. 安装开关、插座时不得碰坏墙面，要保持墙面的清洁。
2. 开关、插座安装完毕后，不得再次进行喷浆，以保持面板的清洁。
3. 其它工种在施工时，不要碰坏和碰歪开关、插座。
五、应注意的质量问题
1. 开关、插座的面板不平整，与建筑物表面之间有缝隙，应调整面板后再拧紧固定螺丝，使其紧贴建筑物表面。
2. 开关未断相线，插座的相线、零线及地线压接混乱，应按要求进行改正。
3. 多灯房间开关与控制灯具顺序不对应。在接线时应仔细分清各路灯具的导线，依次压接，并保证开关方向一致。
4. 固定面板的螺丝不统一（有一字和十字螺丝）。为了美观，应选用统一的螺丝。
5. 同一房间的开关、插座的安装高度这差超出允许偏差范围，应及时更正。
6. 铁管进盒护口脱落或遗漏。安装开关、插座接线时，应注意把护口带好。
7. 开关、插座面板已经上好，但盒子过深（大于2.5cm）,未加套盒处理，应及时补上。
8. 开关、插销箱内拱头接线，应改为鸡爪接导线总头，再分支导线接各开关或插座端头。或者采用LC安全型压线帽压接总头后，再分支进行导线连接。