Clivia is a herbaceous plant of the genus Clivia in the family Amaryllis. The leaves of this plant are opposite and can absorb dust and pollutants in the air. It has a long growth period, up to 4-5 years, but the flowering period is also very long, which can last for 1-2 months. It usually blooms from December to March of the following year. The planting process and cultivation methods of Clivia are very simple, but there are many key points to pay attention to. The editor of Experience Book will share with you the cultivation methods and precautions of Clivia below.
Clivia cultivation method:
1. Soil: The native habitat of Clivia is under the big trees in the forests of high altitude areas in southern Africa, and its roots are rooted in the rotten leaves accumulated over the years. Loose and fertile neutral or weakly acidic humus soil should be used for the cultivation of Clivia. The soil for cultivation can be mixed with 65% humus soil, 20% clean sand, and 15% fine furnace ash. The relative humidity of the soil should be around 40%.
2. Fertilization: Apply solid fertilizer once in winter to Clivia, less nitrogen fertilizer, more phosphorus fertilizer and potassium fertilizer. Eggshell powder and fermented fish water are good phosphorus fertilizers, and husk ash and cigarette ash are easily available potassium fertilizers. You can also apply nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizers to promote the germination of more new plants and leaves. Fertilization must be appropriate, and avoid applying concentrated fertilizers and unfermented raw fertilizers, otherwise, it is easy to cause the leaf tips to burn or rot.
3. Soil: It is not suitable to be too dry or too wet. Water thoroughly every time you water it, and water more after the buds appear. You can combine watering and fertilization by applying fermented bean cake water, light fish water, and water chestnut water every 20 days or so. When the room temperature is low, you should control watering to prevent the pot soil from being too wet. Too wet pot soil will cause the plant to rot and die, but you can't make the pot soil too dry.
4. Temperature: The suitable temperature for Clivia to grow in winter is 15-20℃, preferably not lower than 10℃. The temperature should be kept at around 18℃ after the arrows grow, and the temperature difference between day and night should be around 10℃, otherwise the arrows will bloom before they grow to the appropriate height, which is easy to form "pinched arrows".
Things to note when growing Clivia:
1. Clivia likes a semi-shaded and cool environment, and avoids high temperature, strong light, and dryness. The most suitable temperature is 15-25 degrees. It will go dormant and stop growing below 5 degrees. High temperatures are also not suitable. You should pay attention to avoiding the heat in summer. Otherwise, the leaves will be narrow and long, which will affect the viewing experience. You should cool down in time.
2. Keep the pot soil moist during the growth period of Clivia. The pot soil should be dry during the high temperature semi-dormant period, and spray water on the leaves to achieve the purpose of cooling. Clivia likes fertilizer, so change the pot every 2 to 3 years in spring and autumn, and add leaf mold to the pot soil. Turn the pot frequently to prevent the leaves from leaning to one side.
★Cultivation methods and precautions of Clivia:
Clivia belongs to the Amaryllis family and is a perennial evergreen herb. Its leaves are broad and ribbon-shaped, hard and thick, shiny and with veins.
The flowers of Clivia are not as magnificent as those of peony, nor as fragrant as those of lily, nor as gorgeous as those of rose, but it has sword-like green leaves, which are broad, thick and bright; and fire-like red flowers, which bloom gracefully, with red and green complementing each other, making it an ideal potted flower for beautifying the environment.
Environmental requirements for Clivia cultivation:
Soil selection: Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus, which has good air permeability, good water permeability, fertile soil, and slightly acidic (PH6.5). Infiltrating about 20% of sand into the humus soil can help nourish the roots.
Temperature requirements: The most suitable growth temperature for Clivia is 15-25℃. It stops growing at 10℃ and is damaged by frost at 0℃. Therefore, it must be kept warm and frost-proof in winter. After the flower stems are pulled out, it is advisable to maintain around 18℃. If the temperature is too high, the leaves and flower mosses will grow tall and thin, the flowers will be small and of poor quality, and the flowering period will be short. If the temperature is too low, the flower stems will be short, which can easily cause premature birth (flowering), affecting the quality and thus reducing the ornamental value.
Light requirements: Clivia is a medium-light plant. It grows best with scattered light. It does not need strong light, especially in summer. Avoid direct sunlight. Proper shading is conducive to leaf growth. Strong light during the flowering period in winter will shorten the flowering period. Medium light can prolong the flowering period. If you need to bloom earlier in winter, you can use short-day treatment.
Fertilizer and water management for Clivia cultivation:
Many flowers like fertilizer, but there is a limit to fertilizing them. Too much fertilizer will be detrimental to their growth and may even cause the roots of the plants to rot or burn. Clivia is also one of these plants and must be fertilized appropriately.
Clivia has different nutrient requirements at different growth and development stages. Therefore, different fertilization methods suitable for the needs of the plant should be adopted at different times. Such as base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilization, etc. The types of fertilizers should also be applied according to the seasons. For example: in spring and winter, it is advisable to apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as fish meal, bone meal, sesame cake, etc., which can help the formation of leaf veins and improve the glossiness of leaves; and in autumn, it is advisable to apply the extract of decomposed animal hair, horns, hooves or bean cakes, which should be diluted with 30 to 40 times of clean water and then applied, which can help the growth of leaves.
In summer, spray water once a day to wash away dust on the leaves to increase the humidity. It likes moisture at ordinary times, so the soil should be kept moist during the growing season, and water should be sprayed or sprinkled on the leaves frequently to increase the air temperature. However, too much water will cause excessive growth and affect its appearance, so generally just keep the soil moist.
Clivia has well-developed fleshy roots, which store a certain amount of water. Therefore, this flower is relatively drought-resistant. However, drought-resistant flowers cannot be seriously lacking in water, especially in the summer when the temperature is high and the air is dry. Don't forget to water them in time, otherwise, the roots and leaves of the flowers will be damaged, resulting in the failure of new leaves to sprout and the original leaves to burn, which will not only affect flowering but even cause the death of the plant. However, excessive watering will cause root rot. Therefore, you should master it well and pay attention to the dryness and wetness of the pot soil. Water it once it is half dry. The amount of watering should not be too much. Keeping the pot soil moist but not damp is just right.
In general, water once a day in spring; in summer, use a fine spray bottle to water the leaves and the surrounding ground, twice a day on sunny days; in autumn, water once every other day; in winter, water once a week or less. However, it must be noted that this refers to "general circumstances". It must be handled flexibly according to various circumstances. In other words, it depends on the specific situation, and the principle is to ensure that the potting soil is soft and moist, not too dry or too damp.
Potted maintenance of Clivia cultivation:
The young Clivia plants purchased from the flower market, or the young plants grown from soft branches, are potted, with 3 to 5 plants per pot. The potting soil can be made of leaf humus, garden soil and a small amount of river sand, and a small amount of roasted and crushed eggshells are added as base fertilizer. Avoid using clay soil and alkaline soil, otherwise it will lead to poor growth and yellowing of leaves. After potting, water thoroughly and place in a ventilated and semi-shaded place indoors. After 15 to 20 days, place it in a well-ventilated and well-lit place indoors.
Plant one plant in each pot. When planting, the pot should be gradually enlarged as the plant grows. When planting one-year-old seedlings, a 10 cm clay pot is suitable. In the second year, a 15 cm clay pot is used. After that, a larger clay pot is used every two years. Repotting should be done in spring and autumn, and the temperature is most suitable when it is around 20℃1. When repotting, add superphosphate to the culture soil and mix it evenly as a base fertilizer. When transplanting, first use a bamboo chopstick to poke a hole and insert the fleshy root into the soil. The depth should be enough to bury the rhizome and expose the bulb. At the same time, pay attention to the consistent direction of the leaves.
Avoid water accumulation in the pot soil, otherwise it will cause yellow leaves and rotten roots. More water is needed during the flowering period. When watering, do not pour water on the leaves to prevent the leaves from rotting. When dust is found on the leaves, wipe the leaves gently with a soft cloth, and do not wash them with a large amount of water; Fertilizing Clivia. It is advisable to adopt the method of "thin fertilizer and frequent application". During the growth period, apply thin and well-rotted light cake fertilizer water, and apply nitrogen fertilizer once every 7 to 10 days during the spring and autumn growth.
In summer, Clivia should avoid high temperature (above 30℃) and scorching sun. Cooling measures should be taken to place Clivia in a cool, low-temperature and ventilated semi-shaded place. In winter, the sun is soft, so it should be placed in a well-lit place indoors. It can safely overwinter if the room temperature is above 100℃. During maintenance, the leaves often tilt, which affects the beauty of the plant shape. Pay attention to the direction of light, which should be parallel to the direction of leaf extension. Rotate the flower pot 180 degrees every week to make the light evenly distributed, which is conducive to growth. The arrangement of the leaves will be neat and beautiful, increasing the ornamental effect.
Clivia breeding method:
Clivia is propagated by division and sowing.
(1) Propagation by division
Division is carried out from April to June every year. The axillary buds are cut and cultivated. Because the mother plant has a well-developed root system, the whole pot can be poured out when dividing, and the pot soil can be slowly peeled off. Be careful not to break the root system. It is best to cut the axillary buds with 2 to 3 roots; after cutting, apply fungicide on the wounds of the mother plant and the small buds. After the young buds are potted, watering should be controlled and placed in a shady place. Normal management can be carried out after half a month. If there are no root axillary buds, they can survive by cutting, but the rooting is slow. The division seedlings begin to bloom in three years, and the excellent traits of the mother plant can be maintained.
(2) Seed propagation
Seeding propagation is carried out after the seeds are mature and harvested, because Clivia seeds cannot be stored for a long time. After the seeds are harvested, wash off the outer seed coat and dry them in the shade. The sowing temperature is around 20℃, and the seedlings emerge after 40-60 days. Potted seeds need loose potting soil rich in organic matter, and can be covered with glass or plastic film after sowing.
(3) Tissue culture propagation
Since Clivia has a long sexual reproduction cycle and a low asexual reproduction coefficient, in order to accelerate the reproduction of Clivia, the style, pedicel, ovary wall, embryo, milky seeds, ovary, receptacle and filament can be used as explants, and tissue culture can be used to reproduce Clivia, providing a new way for the rapid reproduction of improved varieties of Clivia.
Things to note when growing Clivia:
Clivia prefers a cool and humid environment; it fears strong sunlight in summer and cold in winter; in the maintenance of the four seasons, you need to pay special attention to the following points to ensure that the Clivia grows better.
1. Clivia cultivation in spring: pay attention to wind.
In early spring, the roots of Clivia begin to recover after hibernation. Due to lack of nutrient supply, the leaves will become dehydrated after being exposed to wind and sun, which will reduce their brightness, hardness and thickness. In severe cases, the leaves may even turn yellow or rot.
Therefore, it is more important to note that Clivia is drought-tolerant but not moisture-tolerant. The potted plants can be kept generally moist. Excessive watering can easily cause root rot. Avoid spraying water before the upper arrow blooms. Apply fully decomposed liquid fertilizer once a week or half a month, but follow the principle of "thin fertilizer and frequent application". Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer or raw fertilizer to avoid leaf scorch and root rot.
2. When growing Clivia in summer, pay attention to sunlight.
Clivia is not very demanding on light, prefers semi-shade and is afraid of direct sunlight. Due to the high temperature and soil temperature in dry summer, the root system is easily disturbed, resulting in unbalanced nutrient absorption and the occurrence of neck pulling and leaf sprouting.
In addition, due to strong sunlight, transpiration is greatly increased. If watering is improper, the leaves will appear old and yellow, or even wilt.
3. Clivia cultivation in autumn: pay attention to rain and water spray
As autumn approaches, the climate gradually turns cooler. During the days of continuous autumn rain, adult Clivias have more opportunities to cut their arrows, lay seeds, and bloom. If they are exposed to rain or too much water at this time, it will cause root rot, arrow rot, and heart rot.
Therefore, when the upper arrow is blooming, avoid spraying water. You can water it with decomposed cake fertilizer water (1:3) once every half a month or so. When watering, prevent water from seeping into the center of the leaves, and do not let rain water fall into the leaves to avoid stamen rot. In severe cases, it may even cause the entire plant to rot and die.
4. Clivia cultivation in winter: pay attention to low temperature and dryness
In winter, when the temperature of Clivia is below 5℃, the humidity of the pot soil must be kept at about 70% to prevent it from being frostbitten due to dryness. If the moisture content is less than 20%, it is easy to freeze to death.
Before the frost, indoor plants should be placed in a sunny place indoors, and attention should be paid to anti-freezing and keeping warm. The potted plants can be rotated 180 degrees in about half a month to facilitate the neat and beautiful growth of leaves.
If the indoor temperature is kept at 6-7℃ in winter, it can safely overwinter. Fermented cake fertilizer can be applied once a month, and liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 10 days or so. Note that nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied too much. In the three months before flowering, liquid fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can promote its arrows and flowering.
In winter, Clivia enters a dormant period, and the amount of water evaporation will be relatively reduced. The potting soil only needs to be kept moist, but it is better to be dry. Avoid frequent watering, water accumulation, or half-watering, otherwise it will cause scorched leaves or rotten roots.
In addition, during the year-round maintenance of Clivia, the potted plants should be sprayed with clean water frequently. It is best to wipe them dry with a fine cloth after spraying. This will not only increase the smoothness of the leaves, but also improve their ornamental value.
Pest and disease control in Clivia cultivation:
1. Clivia leaf spot disease
Symptoms: Occurs on leaves. In the early stage of the disease, small yellow spots with faded green color appear on the leaves, which then expand into irregular spots with slightly raised edges, yellow-brown color, and gray-brown center. Finally, the spots dry up and small black particles grow on them.
Prevention and treatment methods:
①Repot regularly, and the soil in the pot should not be too wet.
② To eliminate scale insects in time, you can use 1000 times diluted scale mite killer to apply on the leaves.
③ At the early stage of the disease, spray 500 times diluted 50% mycobacterium wettable powder or 800 times diluted 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder.
2. Clivia root rot
Symptoms: When the disease occurs in the seedling stage, the leaves often rot from the base to the bottom; when the disease occurs in the adult stage, the leaves gradually rot from the middle of the root to the bottom, and then the leaves gradually turn yellow and no new leaves sprout. This disease is caused by excessive watering of potted plants, poor drainage, or the invasion of pathogens (mostly Fusarium) from the root cuts during transplanting.
Prevention and treatment methods:
Fertilize and water properly. Apply fully decomposed organic fertilizer and be careful not to let the fertilizer come into direct contact with the roots. Water when the soil is dry and when it is wet. Avoid long-term excessive moisture in the pot soil. Loosen the soil frequently to ensure good soil ventilation. Be careful when transplanting to prevent root damage. Remove the plant from the pot immediately after the disease occurs.
If part of the roots are rotten, you can use a sharp and clean knife to cut off the rotten part, apply a little sulfur powder on the cut surface, and then replace it with a new culture medium and replant it; if most of the roots are rotten, you have to remove all the roots from the root neck, disinfect the wound with 200 times copper sulfate solution, and then insert it into a plain sand pot to allow it to reroot.
★ Environmental requirements for the growth of Clivia
The normal growth, development, flowering and fruiting of Clivia are closely related to the environmental conditions of growth. Good environmental conditions suitable for the growth of Clivia can adapt to the needs of the plant at each growth and development stage and promote its vigorous growth. Otherwise, it will affect the normal growth and development of the plant. The environmental conditions of Clivia mainly include five elements: temperature, light, soil, water, fertilizer , etc.
Requirements for soil:
Clivia has fleshy roots, which are suitable for growing in loose, fertile, water-permeable and well-air-permeable soil, so the selection of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for orchid cultivation. The best humus soil is oak leaves (oak leaves). Other leaves such as larch, hazelnut, pear, apple, etc. can also be used, but pay attention to pesticide factors. Walnut leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotten leaves, with a rotten degree of about 50%. A high rotten degree is not good, and the water permeability and air permeability are poor. Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus. This soil has good air permeability and water permeability, and the soil is fertile and slightly acidic (pH6.5). The general configuration of Clivia soil is 6 parts of leaf humus, 2 parts of pine needles, 1 part of river sand or furnace ash, and 1 part of base fertilizer (hemp seeds, etc.). Leaf humus mainly refers to oak leaves, also called oak. This kind of leaves has a thick texture and is a good humus. It is nutritious and permeable. Other leaves are too thin, and they will disappear after decomposition, and cannot be mixed with other media to make soil. When planting, the pot should be gradually enlarged as the plant grows. When planting one-year-old seedlings, a 3-inch pot is suitable. Change to a 5-inch pot in the second year, and then change to a larger pot every 1 to 2 years. Repotting can be done in spring and autumn.
To further improve the structure of humus soil and increase water permeability and air permeability, you can also add some larch needles, carbon (not ash) from burned rice husks, clean river sand, and furnace ash slag, accounting for 10% to 20%. Hardened and poor ordinary soil is not suitable for growing orchids and will seriously affect the normal growth of Clivia.
In addition, the pH value of soil in different regions is different, so neutral or slightly acidic soil should be selected, with a pH value between 6.5-7.
Temperature requirements:
The origin of Clivia is in the mountain forest area of southern subtropical Africa, where it is warm all year round. The annual average minimum temperature is not less than 10℃, the maximum temperature does not exceed 22℃, and the annual precipitation is 500-1500 mm. The growth and development of various organs of Clivia adapt to this natural environment that is neither cold nor hot, neither wet nor dry. Therefore, when it is artificially cultivated, it is also necessary to create a natural environment similar to the origin, so that the plant can grow and develop better. The optimum temperature for artificial cultivation should be controlled at 15-25℃. When the temperature drops below 10℃, the growth and development of the plant is slow. When it drops to 5℃, the growth and development will be inhibited. When the temperature drops below 0℃, the leaves will be frostbitten in mild cases, and the whole plant will be frozen to death in severe cases. When the temperature exceeds 30℃, the leaves will grow too long, and the leaves will be slender, soft and thin. If the humidity is low, the leaves will wither and turn yellow. In severe cases, the whole plant will wither and die. When the temperature exceeds 30℃ in summer, ventilation and cooling should be carried out.
Different sizes of Clivia plants have different temperature requirements. Seedlings require relatively higher temperatures. This is because the seedlings are small and have vigorous growth. High temperatures are conducive to rapid growth in the seedling stage. The temperature difference required in the seedling stage is smaller. The seedling growth temperature should be controlled at 20-30℃. Below 15℃, new leaves grow slowly. Below 10℃, new leaves grow very slowly and are prone to grow chicken tongue leaves, that is, new leaves with thin tips. For one-year-old seedlings, the temperature should be controlled at 20-25℃. For two-year-old large seedlings, the temperature should be controlled at 15-25℃. The temperature of mature orchids should be controlled at 15-25℃. Especially in the winter arrow season, the temperature of mature orchids can be between 10-25℃, artificially creating a large temperature difference, which is extremely conducive to the arrows of flowers and does not cause the phenomenon of pinching arrows.
Temperature difference is the difference between the highest and lowest temperatures in the environment, and also refers to the temperature difference between day and night. Temperature difference allows plants to adjust the speed of nutrient absorption, which is more conducive to the growth and development of plants. It is conducive to the full absorption of nutrients by the leaves of Clivia. Temperature is a major condition for the healthy growth of Clivia. The difference between Clivia grown on windowsills and in flower cellars is often obvious in the temperature difference. The temperature difference in flower cellars is large, while the temperature difference on windowsills is small. Especially in winter, there is almost no temperature difference when growing orchids on windowsills. Plants grown in flower cellars are superior to those grown on windowsills in terms of leaf brightness and color. Plants grown on windowsills will have poor leaf gloss, drooping leaves, and are prone to pinching arrows. Temperature has a certain impact on photosynthesis and respiration of plants. Plant photosynthesis and respiration are two interdependent processes. Photosynthesis is the process of synthesizing organic matter to store energy, while respiration is the process of decomposing organic matter. Temperature has a direct impact on photosynthesis and respiration. Within the temperature range of adaptation, the growth, metabolism and absorption rate of plants are related to the temperature. When the temperature is high, the metabolism speeds up and the plants grow rapidly. When the temperature is low, the metabolism slows down and the growth rate of plants also slows down. When the temperature and light are insufficient, it is difficult for plants to maintain life.
The growth state of leaves is different at different temperatures. In summer, the leaves tend to grow long and thin due to high temperatures. In spring, autumn and winter, especially in winter, the temperature difference is artificially controlled, and the newly grown leaves are wide and short. Temperature also has a great impact on the flowering period. When the temperature is too high, the flowering period is short, and when the temperature is low, the flowering period is long. In summer, when the temperature is above 30℃, the flowering period may last for 15-20 days. In winter, when the temperature is 10-15℃, the flowering period can reach more than 30 days. The most suitable temperature for flowering is 15-25℃. Within this temperature range, the large temperature difference is conducive to drawing arrows. The flowers are large and colorful, and the fruit setting rate is high. Therefore, temperature can control the length and time of the flowering period.
Water requirements:
Water is an essential element for plant life. No plant can survive without water. The annual precipitation in the native habitat of Clivia is 500-1500 mm, but the rainfall in each month is uneven. The precipitation is less from May to September, more from October to April of the following year, and higher from November to February of the following year. Therefore, the plant adapts to this dry and wet environment. When there is a lot of water, the leaves and roots can store a certain amount of water. Once the soil moisture decreases, the plant can still use the stored water to maintain life and survive the drought season.
Water is the raw material for photosynthesis of Clivia plants, and it is also the carrier for absorbing and transporting nutrients. Chemical elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the soil can only be absorbed by the roots of the plant if they are dissolved in water. The organic matter produced by the leaves must be dissolved in water to be transmitted to the various organs and tissues of the plant. Water is an important component of the plant body. The water content of the roots of Clivia plants is about 91%, while the water content of the leaves is about 90%, which is slightly lower than the water content of the roots. Therefore, the cells and tissues in the Clivia plant can only carry out normal physiological activities if there is sufficient water in the body. If there is a lack of water, the plant will wilt and the leaves will droop.
Clivia requires a neutral pH value in water, that is, a pH value of 6.5-7, which is suitable for the growth and development requirements of the plant.
Don't take watering Clivia as a trivial matter, because it is a key issue in the cultivation of Clivia. Watering Clivia cannot be dogmatic or stereotyped. It should be decided when to water and how much to water according to the changes in seasons and weather. You can't water it as soon as you see the surface soil is dry, which will cause water accumulation in the pot. The method to detect the amount of water in the pot is to knock on the pot wall with the index finger joint. If the sound is crisp, there is less water in the pot. If the sound is dull, it means that the pot is moist. Another method is to pick up the pot based on past experience. If the pot soil is heavy, it does not lack water. If the pot soil is light, it means that there is a lack of water. In order to water thoroughly, the pot soil must be loose and breathable, with good water retention. If the pot soil is compacted and dry, no matter how much water you pour, no matter how many times you pour it, the water will flow along the pot wall to the bottom of the pot. All of it flows out from the bottom hole, and the roots are not watered at all. If you mistakenly think that the plant has been watered thoroughly, the Clivia will soon be in a state of drought, and the plant will wilt over time. In mild cases, the roots will dry up, and in severe cases, the entire plant will die.
The time of watering is related to the season. In spring and winter, the indoor flower cellars in the north need heating. The temperature is higher at night, and the temperature is the lowest in the morning, so it is best to water the flowers in the morning. Because the temperature of the water stored in the flower cellar is close to the temperature of the pot soil, it is beneficial to the growth of the plants. In summer and autumn, heating is not needed, but the temperature is hot and relatively high.
The amount of water required by Clivia plants during growth, the humidity in the potting soil must be maintained at about 40%. It is unscientific to simply emphasize that water should be applied when it is dry or wet. It should be flexibly controlled according to the changes in seasons and climate. In spring, it should be large and permeable, in summer, it should be frequent and small, in autumn, it should be neither dry nor wet, and in winter, it should be dry or wet. Watering Clivia should be based on changes in temperature, the intensity of light, and the dryness and wetness of the environment. Try to do it at a regular, quantitative, and periodic basis to form a regular pattern. It should not be arbitrary and water whenever you want. One point of special attention is that the humidity of the water must be close to the humidity of the potting soil, otherwise the temperature difference between the water and the potting soil will affect the normal growth of the plant. Some people also use magnetized water, acidic water, oxygenated water, etc. to water Clivia. We can gradually experience, summarize and explore in the practice of orchid cultivation, and constantly summarize new experiences.
In short, if you master the art of watering Clivia, use high-quality water suitable for the growth of Clivia, and follow scientific methods, you will definitely be able to cultivate more vigorous Clivia.
Fertilizer requirements:
During the growth and development of plants, a large number of nutrients are needed, and fertilizer is an important source of plant nutrition. Nutrients that require a large amount include carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, etc.; trace elements that require a smaller amount include iron, copper, manganese, zinc, boron, chlorine, etc. During the growth and development of plants, once these nutrients are lacking, they will be stunted, and in severe cases, they may cause diseases.
Plants mainly absorb nutrients from the soil and fertilizers through their roots. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are elements that plants need in large quantities. The content in the soil alone cannot meet the needs of plants. Only artificial supplementation can ensure the healthy growth of plants.
The absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is mainly completed by carbon dioxide in the air and water in the soil. Other elements can be obtained from nutrient soil.
Nitrogen
fertilizer is the main component of Clivia plant protein. It is the most basic substance that constitutes the plant body. Without nitrogen, it is impossible to produce protein and protoplasm.
Nitrogen is the main raw material for chlorophyll, which is an essential substance for photosynthesis. Therefore, if nitrogen is well supplied, the plant will grow vigorously, with broad and thick leaves, green and strong plants, high fruiting rate and full grains.
When nitrogen is deficient, the plant grows slowly, is short and weak, has narrow and thin leaves, blooms late, sets few fruits, and the bottom leaves turn yellow. However, when too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the leaves become soft, thin, and droop, and the disease resistance is weakened, making it more susceptible to diseases and insect pests. The application of nitrogen fertilizer to Clivia must follow the principle of appropriate amount.
Common nitrogen fertilizers for Clivia include: decomposed bean cake, peanuts, peanut cake, castor seeds, sesame, sesame oil residue, cottonseed cake, etc. Freshwater fish offal is also a good nitrogen fertilizer. These fertilizers must be fully fermented and decomposed before use.
Phosphorus
is the main component of the cytoplasm and nucleus of Clivia plants. It can promote cell division and reproduction. It can make new roots and seedlings grow faster, and mature orchid plants bloom early and bear more fruits, with fuller grains. Phosphorus can enhance photosynthesis.
Phosphorus can make stems and leaves tough and enhance disease resistance. When plants lack phosphorus, roots and seedlings grow slowly, and old leaves on the stems turn purple or dark green. This affects the growth and development of reproductive organs. There will be delayed flowering, fewer seeds in the fruit, and less plump fruit.
Commonly used phosphorus fertilizers for Clivia include: bone meal (without salt), fish scales, rice bran, etc., which can be used after fermentation and decomposition.
Potassium
fertilizer Potassium is one of the elements with a high content in Clivia plants, and its content is highest in the young leaves of seedlings and root tips. It can promote the plant's absorption of nitrogen and the formation of protein. Potassium can make the plant's roots grow thick and strong, and the leaves are broad, thick and upright. The veins are clear and raised, which can improve the plant's drought resistance and resistance to diseases and pests. When the plant lacks potassium, the cellulose in the cell wall decreases, the leaves are soft, the veins are not raised, and it is easy to be infected by diseases. Old leaves are prone to yellow-brown spots.
Common potassium fertilizers for Clivia include: plant ash, charcoal, straw, rice husk ash, etc. Potassium exists in the form of potassium carbonate and is easily soluble in water. The growth of Clivia is inseparable from the three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Their effects on Clivia mainly focus on:
Nitrogen fertilizer mainly promotes rapid growth of plants, lush leaves, and broad leaves, and has an obvious effect on leaf growth.
Phosphorus fertilizer mainly promotes bright flower colors, plump fruits, high fruit set rate and early flowering. It has obvious effects on flowers and fruits.
Potassium fertilizer has the effect of increasing leaf rigidity and promoting root growth. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are essential nutrients for Clivia plants, and each has a unique role. They cannot replace each other and must be used in combination.
Organic fertilizer is the most commonly used fertilizer by orchid growers. It has little stimulation to the root system, is easy to absorb, has stable fertilizer effect, is easy to use, and is suitable for the needs of the general public.
Chemical fertilizers are quick-acting fertilizers with quick effects and short duration. If applied improperly, they can cause side effects such as root burn and yellow leaves. Try not to use them when growing crops, or try them in small quantities to gain experience before using them in large quantities.
Lighting requirements:
Light is the energy source for photosynthesis of plants. Light is an indispensable condition for the growth of various plants and has a very important impact on the growth of Clivia. There is a photosensitive pigment in the plant body, which causes a series of physiological and biochemical reactions in the plant body under the action of light. Clivia relies on chlorophyll in the plant body to absorb sunlight and synthesize carbon dioxide and water into organic substances such as grapes, so that Clivia plants can develop normally.
Practice has shown that the Clivia grown in the flower cellar has light and yellowish leaves due to sufficient light, wide leaves, strong contrast, obvious flower faces, and prominent veins. However, the flowers grown indoors are small, light in color, dark in leaves, and grow poorly.
Clivia cultivation requires not only oblique light, but more importantly, top light. This will increase the leaf light area and enhance photosynthesis. The most suitable temperature for photosynthesis of Clivia is 20-30℃. When the temperature exceeds 40℃, photosynthesis tends to stop. Therefore, it is necessary to prevent excessive light in summer and improve the utilization rate of light in winter.
In the midsummer when the light intensity is high and the temperature is high, shading should be used to control the light. The best light season for Clivia is September, October, March and April, when the temperature is neither too cold nor too hot and the light is suitable. It is also the season for changing the soil. During this period, the plant will have two growth peaks. The plants in the flower cellar are heated and insulated in winter, and the light can meet the demand, so they will have the best growth stage, which is also the vigorous flowering season. Pay attention to light and use light scientifically, so that Clivia can stretch its leaves, have raised veins, shiny leaves and upright plants.
Clivia cultivation method
Clivia cultivation is relatively simple. First of all, you need to choose a good potting soil. It can be placed near the window indoors, and the fertilizer and water should be controlled according to the temperature characteristics of each place. The potting soil must be kept moist during the growing season. The potting soil should be relatively dry during the high temperature semi-dormant period, and water should be sprayed on the leaves more often to achieve the purpose of cooling. Clivia likes fertilizer. Every 2 to 3 years, repot once in spring and autumn, and add decomposed cake fertilizer to the potting soil. Every year before the growing season, 5 to 40 grams of decomposed cake fertilizer should be applied under the soil on the surface of the pot, and liquid fertilizer should be applied once during growth. During management, the pot should be turned frequently to prevent the leaves from leaning to one side. If there is a leaning, it should be straightened in time. When the temperature is 25 to 30 degrees, it is easy to cause the leaves to grow too long, making the leaves narrow and long and affecting the ornamental effect. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to adjusting the room temperature when cultivating Clivia.
① Suitable soil
Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus, which has good air permeability, good water permeability, fertile soil, and slightly acidic (pH 6.5). The general configuration of Clivia soil is 6 parts of leaf humus, 2 parts of pine needles, 1 part of river sand or furnace ash slag, and 1 part of base fertilizer (hemp seeds, etc.). Leaf humus mainly refers to oak leaves, also known as oak trees. This kind of leaves has a thick texture and is a good humus. It is nutritious and permeable. Other leaves are too thin and will disappear after decomposition, and cannot be mixed with other media to make soil. When cultivating, the pot is gradually enlarged as the plant grows. When cultivating one-year-old seedlings, a 3-inch pot is suitable. Change to a 5-inch pot in the second year, and then change to a larger pot every 1 to 2 years. Repotting can be done in spring and autumn.
② Proper watering
Clivia has well-developed fleshy roots, which store a certain amount of water, so this flower is relatively drought-resistant. However, drought-resistant flowers cannot be seriously lacking in water, especially in the summer when the temperature is high and the air is dry. Don't forget to water them in time, otherwise the roots and leaves of the flowers will be damaged, resulting in the failure of new leaves to sprout and the original leaves to burn, which will not only affect flowering but even cause the death of the plant. However, excessive watering will cause root rot. Therefore, you must master it well and pay attention to the dryness and wetness of the pot soil. Water it once it is half dry, but the amount of watering should not be too much. Keeping the pot soil moist but not damp is just right.
So, how often should we water the plants? In general, water once a day in spring; in summer, water the leaves and the surrounding ground with a fine spray bottle, water twice a day on sunny days; water once every other day in autumn; water once every other day in winter; water once a week or less in winter. But it must be noted that this refers to "general circumstances". It must be flexibly controlled according to various specific circumstances. For example, water more on sunny days; water less on cloudy days, water once every few days on consecutive cloudy days; and do not water on rainy days. Water several times a day when the temperature is high and the air is dry; water less for large flower pots because the soil has a large amount of water and is not easy to dry; water more for small flower pots because the water evaporates easily. Place the flower pot in a place with good ventilation and easy evaporation, and water more appropriately; water less in places with poor ventilation, slow evaporation, and high air humidity. Water less during the seedling stage; water more during the flowering stage. In short, it depends on the specific situation, and the principle is to ensure that the pot soil is soft and moist, and not too dry or too damp.
If conditions permit, magnetized water is the best; the second best is rainwater, snow water or running water from rivers, the third is water from ponds, and the worst is tap water. For flower growers living in big cities, only tap water is available. In this case, you can use a small water tank or bucket, put tap water in it, and water it after 2 to 3 days. This will allow some harmful impurities in the water to settle. In addition, the substances contained in the water can be oxidized and purified, and the water temperature can be close to the temperature of the pot soil, so that it will not be too cold or too hot, causing damage to the plants.
③ Reasonable fertilization
Many flowers like fertilizer, but there is a limit to fertilizing them. Excessive fertilization is not conducive to growth and may even cause the roots of the plants to rot or burn. Clivia is also one of these plants, and it is necessary to fertilize it in moderation. Flowers have different nutrient requirements at different stages of growth and development. Therefore, different fertilization methods suitable for the needs of the plants should be adopted at different times, such as base fertilizer, topdressing, foliar fertilization, etc.
(1) Apply base fertilizer (or basal fertilizer). The purpose is to create conditions for the plant's growth and development and meet its nutrient needs. Clivia should be fertilized every two years when it is repotted. Commonly used manure (i.e. livestock manure), compost, green manure, bean cake fertilizer, etc. can be applied to the soil.
(2) Topdressing. It is mainly used to promote the growth of the plant. Clivia can be fertilized with cake fertilizer, fish meal, bone meal and other fertilizers. Apply less fertilizer when it is first planted. As the plant grows and the number of leaves increases, the amount of fertilizer should be gradually increased. When applying fertilizer, dig up the pot soil and apply it to a depth of 2-3 cm. However, be careful not to apply the fertilizer too close to the root system to avoid burning the root system. It is generally sufficient to apply this solid fertilizer once a month and it should not be applied more frequently.
(3) Topdressing with liquid fertilizer. Topdressing with liquid fertilizer is to mix the supernatant of plants and animals that have been soaked and fermented with 30-40% clean water and then pour it on the potting soil. Small seedlings should be poured with 40 times the amount of water, medium seedlings should be poured with 30 times the amount of water, and large seedlings can be poured with only 20 times the amount of water. After pouring the liquid fertilizer, pour it with clean water (not too much water) 1-2 days later to allow the fertilizer to penetrate into the roots in the potting soil and give full play to the fertilizer effect. Do not water 1-2 days before pouring the liquid fertilizer. Let the potting soil dry before applying the liquid fertilizer, which is more effective. The best time to apply fertilizer is in the early morning. When pouring, pour the fertilizer along the edge of the pot, and be careful to avoid applying it on the plants and leaves.
In addition, different fertilizers should be applied according to different seasons. For example, in spring and winter, it is appropriate to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as fish meal, bone meal, sesame cake, etc., which are conducive to the formation of leaf veins and improve the glossiness of leaves; in autumn, it is appropriate to apply some leachate of decomposed animal hair, horns, hooves or bean cakes, diluted with 30 to 40 times clean water, and then applied to promote leaf growth.
(4) Foliar fertilization. This method of fertilization is mainly used to make up for the lack of nutrients in the soil, so as to solve the problem of lack of fertilizer in the plant body, so that the seedlings grow faster and the flowers and fruits grow larger. Foliar fertilization is to spray the diluted fertilizer solution directly on the leaves of the plant with a sprayer, so that the nutrients can penetrate into the leaf tissue through the leaf epidermal cells and stomata and then be transported to the whole plant. Commonly used fertilizers include urea, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, superphosphate, etc. When spraying, spray evenly on both sides of the leaves. Spray once every 4 to 6 days during the growing season and once every 2 weeks during semi-dormancy. Generally, spray after sunrise and stop spraying after the plant blooms. It must be noted that this method can only be used when it is found that the plant lacks fertilizer. If the plant has sufficient nutrition and grows vigorously, it should not be used.
④ Summer vacation
In midsummer, the temperature is often above 30℃, which is extremely unfavorable for the growth of Clivia. For this reason, a shed is usually used to cool down. You can also bury the Clivia and the pot in the sand (bury the pot), and then sprinkle water on the sand once in the morning and evening every day. In this way, the pot soil can be kept moist, and more importantly, the heat absorption effect of the evaporation of water in the sand can be used to achieve the purpose of cooling.
⑤Post-management
The flowering period of Clivia is generally from February to April. After flowering, the flowering period can be prolonged by appropriate cooling, ventilation and reducing light. The length of the flowering period of Clivia can be controlled by people's cultivation technology.
[The following measures should be taken in cultivation and management before and after the flowering period of Clivia miniata]
Fertilization: Bone meal, fermented fish viscera, and bean cake water should be applied once to make the flowers brighter, larger, and thicker. Otherwise, the flowers will be small, fewer, and lighter in color. At the same time, care should be taken to avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer and insufficient phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which will lead to weak growth or excessive leaf growth, affecting budding and flowering.
Lighting: Certain lighting conditions must be provided to meet the requirements of photosynthesis and flowering. Under strong light, the flowering period is short and the flowers are bright; under weak light, the flowers are pale. Too long or too strong light or long-term shade and insufficient light will affect the accumulation of nutrients and prevent buds from blooming.
Temperature: Suitable temperature has a significant impact on the quality of flowering. If the temperature is too high, the root hair will exist for a very short time, and the function of absorbing water and fertilizer will be greatly reduced, making the Clivia semi-dormant; the temperature below 10℃ will also inhibit growth; the growth period should be controlled at 15-25℃, and the flowering period should be 15-20℃. The root hair exists for a long time, the water and fertilizer absorption function is good, the leaves will grow short and wide, and the flowers will be lush. It should also be noted that the temperature difference between day and night of Clivia should be maintained at about 8℃, because the organic matter produced by it under the higher temperature conditions during the day needs to be stored and digested under the lower temperature conditions at night.
Water: Clivia cannot lack water during the entire growth period of the plant. It requires more water when entering the flowering period, and the growth humidity should not be lower than 60%.
Cultivation method of hydroponic Clivia
To hydroponically cultivate Clivia, you must first choose a good container. Generally speaking, a transparent glass container is better. If you want to grow a seedling, you only need a glass canning jar. If you want to hydroponically cultivate a large number of plants, you can use fine iron wire to weave a metal mesh with a hole diameter of one centimeter, and then make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or you can use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the metal mesh on the hydroponic box, and insert the Clivia seedlings into the nutrient solution through the mesh. The depth of the flower roots in the culture solution should not exceed the pseudobulb at the root.
Nutrient solution preparation
There are two types of nutrient solutions: inorganic and organic. Inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: 1.5 grams of calcium, 0.01 grams of ferrous sulfate, grams of urea, 1 gram of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and 0.5 grams of magnesium sulfate. After the above 5 inorganic salts are prepared, they can be dissolved in 1000 grams of water for use. Organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 grams of fried sesame seed flour, 100 grams of bone meal (made from salt-free fresh bones), 150 grams of bean cake powder, and 50 grams of cooked sesame powder, and then dissolved in 1000 grams of water. Compared with the above two nutrient solutions, organic fertilizer ingredients are rich, but the nutritional content is not high, and inorganic fertilizer ingredients are relatively simple, but the fertilizer effect is large and the effect is fast. In order to complement each other, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, inorganic fertilizer is applied once a week and organic fertilizer is applied once every 5 days.
Water use
When hydroponically cultivating Clivia, you cannot use tap water directly. You must use "trapped" water. The so-called "trapped" water means putting tap water in a container and drying it in the sun for 3 to 5 days to precipitate chlorides such as bleaching powder that are harmful to the roots of Clivia. From the appearance of "trapped" water, the sediment changes from strips to clumps, and the water color is preferably green. After "trapping" the water, the root position must not be submerged but the pseudobulb. If the water level is too shallow, the Clivia cannot get sufficient water supply, and if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During the breeding process, pay attention to observe the changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be yellow or black, it means that there is a lack of oxygen and fertilizer in the water, and the water must be changed immediately.
Air, sunlight, temperature
Whether the ventilation of the roots of hydroponic orchids can be handled well is the key to the success of hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of moss will grow on the roots of hydroponic orchids. When the moss is too thick, it will seriously affect the breathing of the roots and corrode the culture solution. At this time, you need to use a soft and clean brush to gently brush off the moss layer (you don’t have to brush it very clean, because a small amount of moss on the roots will not have much impact). In addition, you should always check whether there is enough oxygen in the water. The method of inspection is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it means that there is no lack of oxygen in the water. If the small fish always floats to the surface of the water, and its mouth and gills are exposed to the water to breathe, it means that there is a lack of oxygen in the water. After finding that there is a lack of oxygen in the water, oxygen must be supplemented. There are two ways: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight treatment, Clivia is a semi-shade and semi-sun plant. Pay attention to light, especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the phototropism of Clivia leaves, it is necessary to ensure that the leaves receive light evenly, otherwise the length of the leaves will be different and the growth direction will be staggered. Generally, the light angle should be adjusted every two or three days. In terms of temperature treatment, the environmental temperature of mature Clivia should be 11-25℃, and the temperature of seedlings can be slightly higher, 20-35℃. When growing orchids in water, the temperature difference between day and night should be controlled. In winter, it is better to keep it around 20℃ during the day and not lower than 15℃ at night.