There are narrow and broad definitions of cactus. In the narrow sense, cactus refers specifically to cacti of the Cactaceae family and the genus Cactus, while in the broad sense, cactus refers to all cactus plants that are spherical or nearly spherical. The broad definition of cactus is used here. People often think that cacti are covered with thorns and are known as "thorny heads". In fact, the flowers of cacti are also very beautiful, delicate and colorful, and unique.
Beautiful and varied cactus flowers
The flower buds of cacti usually grow from the areoles, and a small number of varieties grow from the axils of the warts. Some varieties also have very long flower tubes. The flowers are bisexual, with the pistil located in the center of the flower. There are many petals, which are oblong and pointed at the front end, and are mostly single-layered or double-layered. Due to different varieties, the size of the flowers varies greatly, with the largest being tens of centimeters in diameter and the smallest being only a few millimeters. The flower shapes include funnel-shaped, trumpet-shaped, bell-shaped, radial, tubular, cylindrical, etc. The flower colors include white, pink, red, yellow, orange, purple, and some have a special metallic luster. Most cactus varieties bloom in the morning when the weather is clear and close in the afternoon. There are also a few white flower varieties that bloom at night. The lifespan of a single flower is generally 2 days, and some varieties can last more than 10 days.
There are many types of cacti with different postures. The plants are not large, easy to maintain, easy to bloom, and bright colors, which are very suitable for family cultivation and viewing. If planted in small pots and displayed on windowsills, balconies, bookshelves, desks, etc., they are like living handicrafts, strange and interesting. Common ornamental varieties of cacti include 'Grass Ball', 'Lion King', 'White Snow Light', 'Colorful Weng Jade', 'Great Commander', 'Exquisite Palace', 'Descendants Ball', 'Descendants Ball Brocade', 'Venus', 'White Bird', 'Dragon King Ball', 'Black Beauty Ball', 'Doub', etc.
Cultivation method of cactus
Cactus is native to the desert and semi-desert areas of tropical America. It likes warm, dry and sunny environment. It is drought-resistant and semi-shady and afraid of waterlogging. Different varieties have different habits due to different growing environments. When cultivating and maintaining, they should be classified according to varieties.
1. The varieties with strong growth
, such as 'Grass Ball', 'Dragon King Ball', 'Lion King', 'Dou', etc., should be given sufficient light during the growth period and can be placed outdoors in a sunny and ventilated place for maintenance. There is no need to shade the high temperature in midsummer, as long as there is good ventilation, otherwise it will cause red spider damage due to the sultry heat. Watering should be done in a way that "no watering if not dry, and watering thoroughly if watering". Pay attention to drainage and waterlogging prevention in the rainy season. It is best to place the plant in a place where it cannot be rained, so as to avoid root rot caused by waterlogging in the soil, or even rot of the entire ball. Apply decomposed thin liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer every 20 days or so. The fertilizer liquid should be light rather than thick, and should be mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, supplemented by nitrogen fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in autumn so that the ball is compact and conducive to wintering. In winter, place it in a sunny place indoors, strictly control watering, and keep the temperature at 3℃ to 5℃. This will help ensure that the plant is fully dormant and conducive to growth in the second year.
Young plants need to be repotted every spring, and adult plants need to be repotted every 3 to 4 years. Since cactus plants have many thorns, it is best to use newspaper to pad when repotting to avoid piercing. Cut off 2/3 to 1/2 of the dead and rotten roots of the root system. For old roots that have no absorption capacity, all should be cut off to promote the germination of strong new roots. The potting soil requires looseness and air permeability with good drainage. It can be mixed with garden soil, sandy soil, and slag.
2. Small balls such as "Zi Sun Ball" and "Hei Li Ball" with weaker growth
are native to the grass and are shaded by weeds in summer. Therefore, they should be avoided from exposure to the sun in summer during cultivation. Varieties such as 'White Bird', 'Exquisite Palace', and 'Colorful Weng Jade' are suitable for growing in an environment with sufficient light, good ventilation, and a large temperature difference between day and night due to their origin at a high altitude. In addition, their white thorns and hairs are easy to get dirty, so it is best to keep them in a well-lit place indoors all year round.
Spring and autumn are the main growing seasons for this type of cactus. Avoid waterlogging in the pot soil and apply a thin fertilizer of "low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium" once a month. Because they are not resistant to high temperatures, the growth of the plant stagnates during the high temperature period in summer and is in a dormant or semi-dormant state. Fertilization should be stopped and watering should be controlled. If the temperature can be maintained above 10℃ in winter, watering can continue to promote plant growth. If watering is controlled to make the plant dormant, it can also withstand a low temperature of 5℃. The self-rooted seedlings of this type of cactus grow slowly and have difficulty flowering. Therefore, it is best to use cactus plants with stronger growth such as 'Three-edged Arrow' and 'Grass Ball' as rootstocks, and graft them by flat grafting to accelerate plant growth and early flowering. However, grafted plants tend to age prematurely, and their ornamental value is not as high as that of seedlings.
3. Propagation of cacti
The propagation of cacti varies from variety to variety. For varieties that are easy to produce bulblets, such as 'Caoqiu', 'Zi Sunqiu', 'Jinxing', etc., the bulblets can be picked and dried for a few days during the growing season, and then cut after the wounds are dry. Varieties that are not easy to produce bulblets, such as 'Da Tongling', 'Long Wangqiu', 'Shizi Wang', etc., can be propagated by sowing. Varieties that grow weaker, such as 'Bainiao', 'Bai Xue Guang', 'Jingqiao Dian', 'Cai Weng Yu', 'Heiliqiu', etc., are mostly propagated by grafting. For varieties that are not easy to produce bulblets and cannot harvest seeds, the growth point at the top of the strong plant can be destroyed to promote bulblets. When the bulblets grow to a certain size, they can be removed for cuttings or grafting.
Bainiao is a plant of the genus Mammillaria in the cactaceae family. The plant grows solitary at first and then in groups. The diameter of a single bulb is about 3.5 cm, and the warts are cylindrical. The tiny white thorns are about 0.5 cm long, with about 100 thorns per areole, all spread out horizontally and densely covered with spheres. The flowers are funnel-shaped, 2 to 3 cm in diameter, and light red.
Leopard head is a plant of the genus Chile ball in the cactus family. It has a fat radish-like fleshy root, the ball is gray-green to dark red, and the ribs are composed of small and round warty protrusions arranged in a spiral, black or brown. The flowers are yellow, 4 cm to 4.5 cm in diameter.
Cai Weng Jade, also known as 'Colorful Jade', is a plant of the genus Chile ball in the cactus family. The plant is solitary, spherical to short cylindrical, about 5 cm in diameter, 10 cm to 14 cm high, and the ball is green, densely covered with irregular light yellow or brown bristle-like fine thorns. The flowers are terminal, with long tubes, funnel-shaped, and the flower color is pink.
Lion King is also called 'Lion King Ball', a plant of the genus Nanguo Jade in the cactus family. The plant is solitary, oblate or spherical, dark green, about 16 cm in diameter, with 13 to 15 warty protruding ribs, white or light yellow thorns, and the top and base are reddish brown. The flowers are terminal, funnel-shaped, 4 cm to 6 cm in diameter, and the flower color is light yellow.
The grass ball is a plant of the genus Opuntia in the Cactaceae family. The plant grows solitary or in clusters. The young plant is spherical, and then gradually becomes cylindrical, 75 cm high and 12 cm to 15 cm in diameter. The ball is dark green, with 11 to 12 edges and black cone-shaped thorns. The flowers grow on the side of the ball, trumpet-shaped, about 24 cm long and 10 cm in diameter, white or light pink.
Zisunqiujin is a variegated variant of 'Zisunqiu', a plant of the genus Zisunqiu in the cactus family. The sphere is yellow, the plant grows in clusters, is spherical or cylindrical, with 16 to 20 spirally arranged fine ridges, and the thorns are 0.2 cm to 0.3 cm long, white or light yellow. The flowers are born on the thorn areoles at the bottom of the sphere, the flower tube is thin and long, and the small flowers are red and funnel-shaped.
Baixueguang is also known as 'Xueguang', a plant of the genus Nanguoyu in the cactus family. The plant is solitary, oblate to spherical, 6 cm to 10 cm in diameter, with 30 ridges, and the sphere is covered with spirally arranged small tubercles. The spines are filamentous, initially yellow, and then turn white. The flowers are funnel-shaped, 1.5 cm long, 2 cm to 3 cm in diameter, orange-red or red, and a single flower can continue to bloom for 7 to 10 days.
Dou is also known as 'Xingxing', a plant of the genus Xingxing in the cactus family. The plant is solitary, initially spherical, and then gradually becomes oblate or disc-shaped. The epidermis is gray-green and shiny, covered with white spots composed of short hairs. There are 4 to 12 ribs, with neat ridges and gentle ridges. There is a circular areole composed of villi at a certain distance in the center of the ribs, but there are no thorns. The flowers are funnel-shaped, mostly yellow, rarely red.
Dragon King Ball is a plant of the genus Long Hook Ball in the cactus family. The plant is solitary, spherical to short cylindrical, 15 cm to 20 cm high, 8 cm to 12 cm in diameter, dark green, with 13 ribs, high ridges, wavy edges, and spiral arrangement. The areoles are densely arranged, with hooks at the top of the middle thorns, and the thorns are yellow-white or yellow-brown. The flowers are borne on the top of the ball, funnel-shaped, yellow flowers with red hearts, and 6 cm to 7 cm in diameter.
Source: Flower News
Cactus Flower Cultivation
Reposted from: Flower and
Tree Network In horticulture, cacti refer to plants of the cactus family, with nearly 130 genera and more than 6,000 species; succulent plants refer to the stems, leaves or roots of plants, which are fleshy and succulent, with nearly 50 families (excluding cacti), about 10,000 species, but both are often collectively referred to as succulent plants or palms.
There are many varieties of cactus flowers, most of which grow in tropical and subtropical deserts or grasslands, and only a few grow on tropical rainforests, wetland trees or rocks. In order to adapt to the local ecological environment, they have evolved over a long period of time, forming a variety of plant postures and growth habits. Their leaves have evolved into cones, flat hooks, hair seats or needle clusters. The stems have changed into a succulent and fleshy body, some are flat like palm fans, some are round and spherical, towering like pillars, and some are like green mountains, colorful and magnificent. The flower shapes vary: there are trumpet shapes, funnel shapes, rosette shapes, bell shapes, and tube shapes; they are as big as Victoria regia and as small as Orchid, with single and double petals. The colors are rich and colorful, including white, yellow, orange, goose yellow, vermilion, pink, magenta, purple, etc., and some are bright and beautiful like silk glitter. The flowering period is generally from April to November, and some also bloom in winter or early spring. The flowers bloom for 1 to 3 days at least, and 7 to 10 days at most. It can bloom several times a year.
Cactus flowers are strong and adaptable. They are generally not afraid of extreme heat and dryness, and are not strict with environmental conditions, making them the most suitable for family cultivation. They can be placed on outdoor balconies or indoor tables. Large varieties are single plants for viewing, and they are majestic; small varieties are combined in pots, which are colorful, small and exquisite, and interesting.
Cactus flowers are usually divided into two categories: terrestrial (terrestrial) and epiphytic (saprophytic). Terrestrial species are native to tropical or subtropical arid deserts or semi-deserts in America. They have plump bodies, thick epidermal cuticles, and many edges and thorns. They like strong sunlight and dry environments. There are many species. There are more than 400 species of cactus alone, such as golden amber, new world, map ball, Huasheng ball, Changsheng ball, as well as Xianrenshan, Monk King Crown, Xianren Whip, etc., which are named after their shapes. Most of them are common to the public. Epiphytic species are native to tropical forests. They have a large plant body, a thin cuticle, and are nearly thornless. Their roots generally do not directly enter the soil, but are rooted in the holes of dead trees or in the humus accumulated near trees. They require a moist environment but no water accumulation. They often produce aerial roots to climb and absorb nutrients and water, such as Euphorbia milii, Tripterygium wilfordii, Epiphyllum sibiricum, Schlumbergera cactus, and Cactus finger. They prefer a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. Terrestrial species have to go through a long dry season every year, so most of them have the habit of winter dormancy (a few hibernate in summer). Epiphytic species do not have a long dry season in their place of origin, so they do not have an annual dormancy period. They only have a short period of semi-dormancy or slow growth after the flowering period. In the process of palm cultivation, it is crucial to treat the different habits of terrestrial and epiphytic species differently and manage them appropriately.
The optimum temperature for the growth and development of cactus flowers is 20℃ to 37℃, and the optimum temperature difference between day and night is 15℃. Above 38℃, some varieties native to North America shrink their roots and enter dormancy. They grow slowly below 20℃ and stop growing below 10℃. Most varieties enter dormancy and are in danger of cold damage at around 5℃. For home cultivation, in frost-free areas in the south, they can overwinter on the balcony outside to avoid rain. In the north, they need to be brought indoors at the end of September and can only leave the room in mid-April of the following year. During the hot summer, curtains can be put up to shade and cool down, so as to avoid excessive temperature rise in the pot soil, which may damage the root system and cause summer dormancy, or burn the new and tender tissues on the top, affecting growth. When placed in a special environment of high temperature and high humidity, terrestrial cactus flowers can be seen to grow significantly faster and have fresh and tender body colors, but the body tissues do not grow fully. Once they leave the high humidity environment, they will immediately shrink, become dull and lose color, and it is difficult to recover. Some people keep palm flowers in glass boxes for long-term cultivation and viewing, but this method is not advisable. They should follow their habits and take normal care to form naturally. In the northern winter, to keep warm and prevent cold, and to avoid smoke and dust pollution, it is advisable to place the plant in a bright place and cover it with a film; control water to make the plant dormant quietly.
Cactus flowers are generally sun-loving plants. Terrestrial species generally have high requirements for light intensity and quality. They should be placed in places with sufficient light. They should not be exposed to light and shade for a long time, which will cause sparse thorn seats and deformed plant posture. Epiphytic species need sparse shade in late spring and mid-autumn, dense shade in midsummer, and soft and sufficient light indoors in winter, maintaining a high air humidity. High temperature and strong light can easily cause the plant's epidermis to turn yellow and the stem flesh to shrink.
For potted cactus flowers, it is advisable to use a highly breathable clay pot, and the bottom of the pot should be padded with broken bricks as a drainage layer. Palms have small root clusters, so the planting pot should not be too large. The pot diameter should be close to the plant body diameter for beauty and harmony. It is generally believed that the origin of palms is desert and barren, so they can be planted in some sandy soil, which is a misunderstanding. The potting soil has limited capacity and poor water and fertilizer buffering capacity, so it is necessary to carefully prepare suitable soil. Terrestrial palms require loose and permeable culture soil with moderate fertility. You can use 40% vermiculite, 30% fine sand with less colloid particles, 20% fully decomposed humus, 10% furnace ash and a small amount of old wall lime powder, mix well and set aside. Epiphytic palms need to use slightly acidic sandy culture soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, and highly permeable. You can use peat soil and surface sandy soil in half, and add some humus for better results.
The potting soil capacity of various palm flowers is small, the nutrients are limited and easily acidified, and it is necessary to repot and change the soil once a year.
In order to adapt to the natural environment of desert aridity, terrestrial cacti have fleshy tissue that can store a large amount of water in their plump and modified stems, and the epidermis has extremely strong water retention properties. There is little rain in the desert, and the root system is very sensitive to water. When it encounters water, it quickly absorbs and stores it, thus forming the drought-resistant characteristics of the plant. However, since the desert has a very poor ability to retain water, it will dry up as soon as the water stops, and its roots will not be soaked in water for a long time, so the root system is afraid of waterlogging. Therefore, the soil in the cultivation pot should not be stagnant and wet for a long time. After the plant absorbs enough water after a thorough watering, the soil should be kept dry, loose and slightly moist, and watered again when it is almost dry.
After winter dormancy or terrestrial palms introduced from other places with bare roots, it is common for the roots to shrink, and the root tips often have nodules. The water absorption capacity is very poor. If there is less watering after planting, it is difficult for the plant to absorb enough water to rejuvenate; if there is too much watering, the pot soil will be wet for a long time, and the roots can't stand it. To solve this contradiction, the root tips and nodules of the plant can be cut off, and then the roots of the plant can be soaked in clean water for a day to absorb enough water, and then the pot can be filled with moist culture soil. After a week, water it thoroughly to ensure that the plant body will quickly become plump and strong, the root system is safe, and new roots will grow vigorously. To care for epiphytic palms, you need to keep the soil moist, the air fresh, and shade them appropriately. Do not allow them to accumulate water for a long time or dry out due to drought. It is generally believed that palms are native to deserts and prefer dry and barren lands. If they are rarely watered or fertilized, they will become sick, weak, shrunken, or even rot. We should get rid of this misunderstanding, follow their habits, and master the watering and fertilizing techniques for various palms and flowers at different growth stages.
Cactus fertilizers should also say goodbye to the misunderstanding that they don't need to be fertilized or dare not be fertilized. Like ordinary flowers, cacti also need to be fertilized and refined according to the different growth and development stages of the plants. The base fertilizer should be added to the culture soil in an appropriate amount before potting or repotting, such as fully decomposed oil cake, bone meal, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., and piled for a period of time until the fertilizer and soil are fully integrated. Topdressing should be based on the growth of the plant. In the spring and autumn season, fully decomposed feather hoof horns or oil cake fertilizer water can be applied once every two weeks. Note that the root osmotic pressure of palm flowers is very low, and the fertilizer water must be diluted and thin, and heavy and raw fertilizers should not be used. It can also be applied alternately with a mixed solution of 0.1% urea and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and the amount of fertilizer water should be enough to cover the surface of the pot soil. For home cultivation, if the organic matter content of the pot soil is high, chemical fertilizers can be applied alone to keep the environment clean. Fertilizers are prohibited during high temperature and hot summer and low temperature dormancy periods.
Cactus flowers are usually propagated by cuttings or grafting, and mass production is propagated by sowing.
The most suitable time for cuttings of various palm flowers is between 20℃ and 30℃. The cutting container should be a seedling pot or seedling box. The cutting medium should be flattened with vermiculite, and then covered with a layer of mulch after being watered thoroughly with boiling water. Keep it warm and moisturizing, and do not allow water to accumulate. When the cactus is removed from the mother plant, an opening can be made in the mulch film, and the bottom of the ball can be stabilized on the substrate. For Christmas cactus, take 2 to 3 sections of the stem, open the opening and insert the lower section into the substrate. For other plants that take part of the plant body as cuttings, such as mountain shadow, epiphyllum, and euphorbia pulcherrima, they should be cut with a sterilized sharp knife from the smallest connection with the mother plant. Pay attention to keeping the mother plant in perfect shape, and the cut part can be divided into several sections as needed. Apply sulfur powder or plant ash to the cut for preservation, and dry it in the shade for a few days. When the cut is dry and the cortex shrinks, open the film for cuttings. The vermiculite film method is used for cuttings of palms. Practice has proved that rooting is fast and the survival rate is high.
Palm grafting, common ones include red peony, yellow mountain blowing, and various colorful artificially cultivated variants. They lack chlorophyll and cannot be self-sustaining. They need to rely on green rootstocks with well-developed root systems to supply nutrients to grow. Some varieties with weak and slow growth can be grafted to promote growth, develop beautiful plant shapes, and have luxuriant flowers and branches. Some rare varieties that are young and cannot produce baby balls, such as golden atractylodes and Xintiandi, can be propagated by grafting small balls on strong rootstocks to promote growth and then digging out the core points. For mass propagation, the warty tissue with a group of hair seats on the robust ball can be cut off to make scions, which are flatly grafted to the pith of the rootstock. After survival, the baby ball can sprout from the hair seat, which is the palm wart grafting method, which is very effective.
The grafted rootstock usually uses the three-edged arrow (measurement ruler) or Changsheng ball and Huasheng ball (commonly known as grass ball). The grafting time is preferably from May to June or September at 25℃ to 30℃, when the rootstock and scion are in the vigorous period. Terrestrial species generally use the flat grafting method: first cut off the top of the rootstock, just enough to expose the pith, and do not cut too much. Then cut the bottom of the scion flat, and then align the piths of the two to connect, that is, pith to pith, flesh to flesh, and tightly combined. Observe that the diameter of the pith of the scion is larger than the pith of the rootstock, which is easy to get the best grafting effect. Then use cotton thread to tie the pot together longitudinally in several ways. Put it in a diffuse light, ventilated and humid environment for maintenance. Generally, the stitches can be removed in about a week, and gradually transition to normal cultivation. Epiphytic palm species such as Christmas cactus use chopping (insertion) grafting, conventional operation, simple survival.
For sowing and propagation of cacti, because most of the seeds are fleshy and easily infected by bacteria, the sowing medium should be fine sand with pure texture, uniform particles, no colloid particles and dust, and strong permeability. Put the seedling pot in a tile seedling pot, pour boiling water for disinfection, sow the seeds, do not cover with soil, cover with glass, and cover with a newspaper on top to keep warm and moist, semi-shaded, and then put it in a well-ventilated and well-lit place, the ambient temperature is 20℃ to 30℃, and the pot soil is always kept moist. Different varieties take a few days to a few months to germinate. After the seedlings emerge from the soil, gradually remove the covering, observe the germination of the seedlings, and transplant the seedlings to the culture soil for maintenance. Some extremely fine seeds and seeds with thick and hard seed coats that have been scratched need to be sown in a cup dish. Two layers of soft paper with strong water absorption are laid in the glass sowing dish. After disinfection with boiling water, sow the seeds, buckle the cover, and put it in a bright and ventilated place to keep constant temperature, clean and moist. When the seedlings emerge and the heart sprouts, use tweezers and paper pads to pick them up, do not hurt the root system, and transplant them into the culture soil. Carefully maintain them, the survival rate is high, and the new seedlings are strong.
Reposted from: Huamu.net
Cactus maintenance
Excerpted from: Flowers www.flowerchina.net
1. Rooting of cactus cuttings
　　May and June are the best time for cuttings. Cactus is most likely to take root at 25-28 degrees. In order to make the cuttings take root as soon as possible, in addition to the cuttings themselves being strong, the substrate and the time and method of cuttings being properly selected, the management during the rooting period is also very important, which includes the regulation of temperature, substrate moisture, air humidity, ventilation, and light. The temperature should be kept within the optimal temperature range for rooting as much as possible, and can be adjusted by ventilation, shading or heating. Epiphytic species require higher air humidity during the rooting period. If the weather is dry, spray appropriately. The cutting substrate should be kept moderately moist, not too dry or too wet. Keep enough oxygen in the substrate as much as possible, so regular ventilation is necessary. When there are few cuttings and a large pot, try to insert the cuttings to the edge of the pot. The good ventilation of the pot is conducive to rooting. The light should be reduced by half compared with that of ordinary cultivated plants. As the roots form and grow, the light can be gradually increased. Some species are not easy to root, such as some species with hard flesh and species with tannin in the body. Before cutting, the mother plant can be shaded with paper for a period of time to soften its tissue, and then the cuttings can be cut for cutting. In the grafted plants with Hylocereus as the rootstock, some scions are aged at the bottom, and it is not easy to root when they are taken off the rootstock. You can keep a few centimeters of the "wood heart" of Hylocereus and remove the stem flesh of Hylocereus, and then it will be easier to root. In addition, for some cuttings that are difficult to root, soaking them in 200ppm naphthaleneacetic acid solution after the wound is dry has a certain effect on promoting rooting.
　 2. Soil and pots for cacti and succulents
　　Cacti and succulents require loose soil, with no fine dust in the soil particles; moderate fertility, no uncomposted organic matter; neutral or slightly acidic (only a few species prefer slightly alkaline soil); rich in organic calcium. Therefore, the culture soil should be prepared in a certain proportion. First, 1 part of soil, 2 parts of leaf humus, 3 parts of coarse sand, and a small amount of calcareous materials are suitable for terrestrial cacti and stem succulents; second, 4 parts of leaf humus, 2 parts of peat, 2 parts of rice husk charcoal, and an appropriate amount of bone meal are suitable for epiphytic palm-shaped flowers; third, 3 parts of loam, 2 parts of leaf humus, 1 part of coarse sand and rice husk charcoal, and an appropriate amount of bone meal are suitable for leaf succulents; fourth, 2 parts of leaf humus, 1 part of loam, coarse sand, rice husk charcoal, and broken brick slag are suitable for stem succulents. In addition, the culture soil should be granular. Granular soil is breathable and water-permeable, so it will not cause hypoxia in the roots. It can also timely remove the carbon dioxide produced by the root respiration and the harmful salts remaining after fertilization. The culture soil should be disinfected with heat or drugs before use to kill spores, bacteria and various pests in the soil to avoid serious diseases and insect pests during the planting process. Choosing a suitable flower pot is very important for the cultivation of this type of flowers. From the characteristics of the roots of this type of flowers absorbing water, the absorption rate is not the fastest when watering, but the absorption is best when the surface of the pot soil is slightly dry and the inside of the pot soil is still moist. Therefore, using a purple sand pot is the best choice, and the cultivation effect is much better than using a clay pot or a plastic pot. Although the clay pot has good air permeability and drainage and is relatively economical, the pot soil dries too quickly, and the roots close to the pot wall are often damaged in summer due to lack of water and high temperature. When using plastic pots for long-term cultivation, be careful to prevent the pot body from cracking due to plastic aging. If you don't pay attention, it will cause the plant to lack water. The size and depth of the pot should be determined according to the shape of the plant and the root system. Generally, after the ball-shaped plant is planted, a space of 1-1.5 cm deep should be left on the edge of the pot. If a shallow pot can be used, try not to use a deep pot. After the plant is placed in the pot, the root neck is slightly lower than the pot mouth.
　 3. Maintenance of cactus grafted balls
　　The scion and rootstock of the grafted seedling are two types. The common rootstock, Hylocereus chinensis, is an epiphytic type, while the scion is mostly a terrestrial type; even if the scion and the rootstock are both terrestrial or epiphytic, the habits of the two are quite different, so "both" must be taken into account when managing. Usually, the requirements of the rootstock should be met in terms of soil, water, and fertilizer; the requirements of the scion should be met in terms of light; and the temperature, ventilation, pest control, air humidity, etc. should be considered. Of course, in short-term cultivation, the requirements of the rootstock should be met first. As long as the rootstock grows well, the scion can generally grow well. At present, the most commonly used rootstocks are Opuntia scabra and grass ball (flower ball), cactus and Wolongzhu. These rootstocks require sufficient water and fertilizer during the growth period, and they all like fertile and well-drained culture soil; but their cold resistance varies greatly. Opuntia scabra is not cold-resistant, and in summer, Opuntia scabra is not as resistant to high temperatures as the other three rootstocks. In winter, they all require sufficient light, and in summer, Opuntia scabra is properly shaded. Therefore, if conditions permit, it is best to plant different plants separately.
　 4. Causes and prevention of palm plant rot
　　Causes of rot: Rot is the most common failure phenomenon in this type of flower cultivation. Cuttings that are not alive are prone to rot, grafts that are not alive are prone to rot, seedlings that are sown are prone to rot, and formed plants that are in good condition will suddenly rot. There are many reasons for rot, which can be summarized into two main categories: one is pathological and the other is physiological. Pathological rot is caused by infection with pathogenic bacteria. Pathogenic bacteria and fungi exist in the soil and surrounding environment, water and fertilizer, and tools used for breeding. If we do not pay attention to disinfection and sterilization, the bacteria can easily multiply in the soil and environment and harm the plants. Wounds caused by humans during breeding, wounds caused by pests gnawing, the epidermis of seedlings, and the lower part of the stems of formed plants are usually "shortcuts" for pathogens to invade plants. When environmental conditions are conducive to the large-scale reproduction of pathogens, plants, especially seedlings, often die rapidly in batches. Physiological rot is mostly caused by poor management. Continuous excessive moisture and waterlogging in the pot soil often lead to suffocation of the roots due to lack of oxygen, which quickly destroys the root system. If the light is too strong, the ventilation is poor, and the ambient temperature is too high, the plant may rot quickly. When pests are rampant in the soil, the root system may also be completely destroyed, which will cause the plant to rot over time. Fertilizers that are too concentrated or mixed with fully decomposed organic matter will cause "root burn" after application, which will also cause plant rot. Improper temperature regulation in the cultivation site will continuously exceed the optimum temperature for plant growth, which will accelerate the rate of plant respiration and consume more energy than the energy generated by photosynthesis for a long time. In such a situation of "income exceeding expenditure", the plant will grow weak and even rot in severe cases. Prevention and control of rot disease: Prevention should be the main approach to the prevention and control of rot disease. First of all, improve the environmental conditions of the cultivation site, especially for the formed plants cultivated by self-roots, which require a clean environment, good ventilation, sufficient light and moderate temperature, so that the occurrence and spread of pathogens can be greatly reduced. Secondly, strengthen cultivation management. The culture soil used should not be mixed with unrotten organic fertilizers, and the fertilizer applied should be light rather than strong. When the pot soil is found to be waterlogged, immediately remove the pot, wash the roots and blow dry; if the roots have not changed color and the root hairs of the fibrous roots are still intact, they can be placed in a semi-shaded place for observation for a period of time; if some of the roots are damaged, they can be cut off and the wounds dried before planting; if all the roots are damaged, they should be cut off and the wounds dried before cuttings to grow new roots. It must be pointed out that some large plants originally grow well and have tight plant tissues. When the roots are damaged by pests or other reasons, sometimes there is not much change in appearance. Some can still bloom as usual, but they gradually weaken over time and eventually rot. For such situations, we should strengthen observation during cultivation. If we find that there are many pests such as woodlice in the pot or the pot soil is not dry after watering, we should suspect that there is a problem with the plant root system. At this time, it may be saved by removing the pot for inspection. Regularly spraying fungicides on the plants or the surrounding environment has a certain effect on preventing the occurrence of rot. Commonly used fungicides are mancozeb, carbendazim and thiophanate. Once the yellow-brown soft rot spots caused by local infection are found on the plants, they should be dug out immediately, and part of the adjacent healthy tissues should also be dug out, and then sulphur or charcoal powder should be applied to dry the wound. In bad weather, it can be dried with a hair dryer, and then isolated for cultivation for a period of time. Sometimes, the plant with healthy upper part after the lower part rots can be cut off for grafting; on the contrary, if the upper part rots, the upper part can be cut off, and the healthy lower part can be treated as the mother plant. Since the plants around the diseased plant are likely to be infected again, the medicine should be sprayed immediately, and the environment ventilation should be strengthened to prevent the spread.
　 5. Prevention and control technology of cactus root nodules
　　The dull color of the epidermis of the stems and leaves of the plant and the weak growth are not necessarily all caused by the damage of root mealybugs. Sometimes, when the root system is removed from the pot and checked, no white floccules are found, but tumors of varying sizes are found on the roots, with a rough surface and shiny milky white granules inside. These are the galls of root-knot nematodes and the bodies of female nematodes. Root-knot nematodes reproduce quickly and can secrete toxins that make the roots quickly turn brown and rot, which is quite harmful to plants. Prevention and control methods should start with prevention. First, strengthen the inspection of foreign plants to prevent the mixing of plants with nodules; second, the soil and flower pots should be sterilized at high temperature. Since nematodes are afraid of high temperatures and can generally be killed at 55 degrees, frequently changing the culture soil that has been sterilized at high temperatures is an effective way to protect potted plants from root-knot nematodes. For ground-planted plants, holes can be made every 20-30 cm to place Fubudan granules: 5-6 granules per hole, which has a certain preventive effect. For some large potted plants that are not frequently repotted, Fubudan can also be placed in the soil around the pot, with several holes per pot; if nodules are found when repotting or checking the roots of foreign plants, the damaged roots should be immediately removed and washed with soft soapy water; after drying, replant or cuttage, and the potting soil with insects and plants that have been severely damaged should be destroyed.
　 6. Reasonable light for cacti
　　In general, palms and succulents are sun-loving plants and have high requirements for light. However, there are certain differences between the various types of species. Cactus, genus Tianlunzhu, hair column, large species of Agavaceae, most species of Euphorbiaceae, genus fairy cup, echeveria, windmill grass genus of Crassulaceae, etc. have high requirements for light intensity and light quality. In areas with less rain and clean air, they can be cultivated outdoors during the growing period. When cultivated in glass sheds or film sheds, as long as the indoor temperature is not too high, do not shade. Species native to grassland areas, such as Mammillaria, Gymnocalyx, Nanguoyu, Lihuaqiu, Zisunqiu and other palm flowers and succulents such as Qingsuolong and Haworthia, like sufficient but not too strong sunlight, and should be properly shaded in summer. Epiphytic species require growth in semi-shady conditions. In summer, as long as there is no continuous heavy rain, it is very suitable to be cultivated under the shade of trees or in a shade shed. Shade with a curtain with a shade degree of 50% in the greenhouse. Although the hyacinthus is also an epiphytic species, it has relatively high requirements for light. Especially after grafting on terrestrial species, the requirements of the scion for light must be taken into account. Generally, when the indoor temperature is not too high, it is only necessary to provide a little shade around noon. In short, species of each family have their own requirements for light. Species with high light requirements can only grow round, thick thorns, long hairs, and luxuriant flowers under sufficient light conditions. On the contrary, when there is insufficient light, the round ball will grow into an irregular cone shape, with sparse thorns, which is very ugly. For example, succulent plants are prone to elongated internodes, reduced white powder on the leaves, and greatly reduced ornamental value. Similarly, species that prefer semi-shade will also cause leaf tips to wither, stem and leaf epidermis to turn yellow, or even burn when cultivated under strong light. When considering light issues, the climate and other factors of the cultivation area must also be considered. For example, in some high-latitude areas, although the sunshine time is long in summer, the light quality is not strong. In foggy areas, there are few sunny days. In this case, it is not necessary to emphasize how many hours of shade a day, but to let the plants see more sunlight according to their growth conditions.
Excerpted from: www.flowerchina.net
Cultivation and management of succulent plants
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