Begonia elatior hybrids

is a perennial bulbous flower of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It is a hybrid of bulbous begonia.

The plant is 20 to 30 cm tall, with oval leaves, emerald green, bright flowers, rich colors, and many varieties. Commonly cultivated ones are red, pink, yellow, white, light green, apricot yellow, etc. It is a new and excellent ornamental flower introduced from abroad.

　　Begonia elatior has fibrous roots, plump plant shape, emerald green branches and leaves, and juicy stems. Single leaves are alternate, asymmetrical heart-shaped, and the leaf color is mostly emerald green, rarely reddish brown. The flower shapes are diverse, mostly double petals, and the flower colors are rich, including red, orange, yellow, white, etc. The flowers are large and colorful, with unique posture, color, and fragrance; and the flowering period is long, which can last from December to April of the following spring. The branches, leaves, buds, inflorescences and flowers of Rieger Begonia have high ornamental value. It is a high-end indoor potted flower variety in winter. In recent years, it has become a new favorite in the flower market. It is often used for home tables, table decorations, window decorations, hotel lobbies, living rooms, restaurants and conference halls. You can also cut flower branches for artistic flower arrangement. It is an important flower for beautifying the indoor environment in winter and spring, and it is also one of the top ten potted flowers in the world.


The peak flowering period is from April to June and September to December. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. The suitable temperature is 15℃～22℃ and the humidity is 65～70%. It is suitable for growing in deep humus soil. It can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, and tissue culture.

This flower is usually sown for seedlings. The seeds are small and can be sown indoors in early spring from January to February. Under the temperature conditions of 18℃～21℃, the seedlings can emerge in 2 to 4 weeks, and the seedlings can be divided after two true leaves.

Cuttings or tissue culture are often used for seedlings in production. During the growing period of Rieger Begonia, the amount of watering should be controlled. In spring and summer, water once in the morning and evening every day on sunny days. In autumn and winter, water should be applied according to the condition of the pot soil. If the pot soil is not dry, try not to water it to avoid root rot. In the hot summer season, it is best to move the seedling pots under the shade shed, and spray water around the seedling pots to increase the air humidity.


Home maintenance technology of Rieger Begonia
　
　　Rieger Begonia is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begonia family. Due to its long flowering period, rich flower colors, green branches and leaves, and plump plant shape, it is an excellent variety for beautifying the indoor environment in winter and one of the main types of indoor flowering plants in all seasons. Home maintenance of Rieger Begonia is different from large-scale production in greenhouses. If suitable environmental conditions can be created, Rieger Begonia will definitely add some color to your family.
　　
　　1. Temperature　The suitable temperature for the growth and development of Rieger Begonia is 18℃～22℃. The focus of home maintenance is to keep warm in winter, and the minimum temperature must not be lower than 15℃. Since the Reiger Begonia is still in the growth and flowering period in winter, it should be placed indoors in a sunny south-facing place, such as an indoor windowsill. But be careful not to be too close to the heater to avoid burning branches, leaves and other flowers; when the high temperature weather lasts above 28℃ in summer, cooling measures should be taken, such as placing it in an air-conditioned room or shading it at noon.
　　
　　2. Watering　The potting soil should be kept moist, not dry or too wet; too dry will cause water loss and wilting, and in severe cases the whole plant will die; if the potting soil is too wet, the water fills the gaps in the soil, causing serious hypoxia in the soil, which in turn affects the root breathing and causes death; too wet potting soil is also easy to provide opportunities for fungal and bacterial diseases to infect, thus affecting the ornamental value of Reiger Begonia. Usually, watering Reiger Begonia depends on climatic conditions. Generally, evaporation is fast in summer, and the water demand is relatively large. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, and the number of watering depends on the degree of moisture in the potting soil. In winter, watering should be done at noon on sunny days. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature to avoid roots being stimulated and dying due to too low water temperature.
　　
　　It is best to use a humidifier to increase air humidity. You can also use a sprayer to spray fine mist on the leaves. It is OK to see the leaves are moist, but do not spray the mist on the flowers.
　　
　　3. Fertilization:　Regular fertilization is particularly important in the process of caring for Begonia. For seedlings, nitrogen fertilizer is mainly used to promote their growth and development. As the plants grow, the amount of nitrogen fertilizer should be reduced, and the content of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be gradually increased. The amount of fertilizer should be increased before flowering. Foliar spraying can also be carried out appropriately. The concentration of foliar fertilizer should not be too high and should be controlled at 1% to 2%. The spray should be even, and both sides of the leaves should be sprayed.
　　
　　4. Shaping and pruning:　During the growth period, pinching should be carried out to promote the sprouting of side branches of the plant to achieve a full plant shape. Excess buds should also be removed in time to avoid a large amount of nutrient consumption and affect the development of other flowers.
　　
　　5. Diseases and Pests　There are few diseases and pests for begonias grown at home. Spray fungicides regularly to prevent bacterial soft rot and powdery mildew. You can spray 200 micrograms/gram of agricultural streptomycin and 1000 times of tadolinium solution. To prevent pesticides from polluting the air, you can make some homemade pesticides at home, which have a good control effect. Here are some for reference: (1) Squeeze ginger juice and add water, spray at a ratio of 1:25, which can prevent the germination of soft rot and other pathogenic spores. (2) Add 50 grams of dried chili peppers to 50 times of water, boil for half an hour, and take the supernatant to spray on the leaves, which can effectively prevent aphids and red spiders　　. －

... When the temperature is lower than 5℃, it will be damaged by frost; when it is lower than 10℃, the growth will stop; when it is higher than 28℃, the growth will be slow; when it is higher than 32℃, the growth will stop. In order to achieve the maximum vegetative growth, the night temperature should be maintained at 19-20℃. When the temperature exceeds 24℃, the Rieger Begonia is prone to leggy growth. When the temperature exceeds 24℃, the light intensity should be reduced. In addition, a lower daytime temperature than nighttime temperature helps control the leggy growth of the plant and improve the quality of the finished product. It is recommended that growers in the north try to control the daytime temperature at 16-18℃ and the nighttime temperature at 20-21℃ for production. Water and humidity　　Rieger Begonia has fleshy rhizomes, and the root system is slender and easily damaged, so proper water supply is particularly important. Insufficient water supply will affect the growth of the plant. When it is too wet, it will cause slow growth and softening of the stems at the least, and cause stem and root diseases at the worst. Therefore, watering should follow the principle of "see dry and wet", and be careful not to wet the leaves when watering. 　　The early growth of Rieger Begonia requires a high relative humidity, which should be controlled at 80-85%. In the south, water should be sprinkled on the ground frequently at noon to increase the humidity. In the north, due to the relatively dry weather, humidification in the greenhouse is necessary, but care should be taken to ensure that the leaves are not stained with water droplets when the sun sets in the afternoon. After the buds are formed, pay attention to lowering the relative humidity to maintain it at a level of 55-65%. 　　Maintaining humidity at 70-80% can effectively control powdery mildew and gray mold. Pay attention to air circulation to prevent moisture from condensing into water on the leaves. Keep the leaves dry at dusk. Water early in the morning to ensure that the leaves can be dry by dusk. Light control　　In the south, the outdoor light intensity generally reaches 60,000-80,000 lux in the early stage of cultivation, and the temperature at this time is also above 25℃, so more than 70% shading is required. After the temperature drops in late October, the light can be appropriately increased. After the short-day treatment begins in mid-November, it should be given sufficient sunlight as much as possible, with a light intensity of 20,000-50,000 lux. Northern growers should pay attention to shading in the first two weeks of potting. After normal growth begins, the plants should be exposed to sufficient light. Shading should be paid attention to again in the two weeks before shipment to extend the shelf life. Substrate:　　Begonia prefers a well-drained substrate, such as coconut husk, peat soil, vermiculite, perlite, carbonized bark, etc. We recommend using 80% high-fiber peat soil + 20% perlite. Adjust the soil pH to 5.2-5.5. Fertilizer


























　　Rieger Begonia is very sensitive to nutrient deficiency or nutrient excess, so fertilizer should be applied thinly. You can use 15-5-15 or 20-10-20 compound fertilizer to maintain the pH value of the solution between 5.0-6.0. Based on the nitrogen content of the dissolved liquid fertilizer, the nitrogen concentration of fertilizer applied once a week is 250-300ppm; if fertilizer is applied three or four times a week or every day, the nitrogen concentration is 100-200ppm. At the same time, special fertilizer for Rieger Begonia

can also be used. － ... 1. Requirements for growth temperature The suitable temperature for crabapple growth is 15-22 ℃. When it is lower than 5 ℃, it will suffer from cold damage; when it is lower than 10 ℃, the growth slows down or even stops; when it exceeds 28 ℃, the growth becomes relatively slow; when it exceeds 32 ℃, the growth almost stops, and ventilation should be strengthened when it exceeds 24 ℃. 2. Pay attention to water and humidity Watering should follow the principle of "see dry and wet". When watering, it should be poured directly into the pot soil, and be careful not to wet the leaves. The early growth of crabapple requires higher humidity, and the relative humidity should be controlled at 80% -85%. In the south, water is often sprinkled on the ground at noon to increase the air humidity, but it should be noted that when the sun sets in the afternoon, it should be ensured that there are no water droplets on the leaves. After the buds are formed, it is necessary to pay attention to lowering the relative humidity to maintain it at a level of 55% -65%. 3. Control of light The temperature is above 25 ℃, and some light needs to be blocked to keep the light below 20,000 lux. Vegetative growth requires light for more than 14 hours. Short-day treatment promotes flower bud differentiation. From early March to mid-September, dark treatment can improve the flower bud differentiation of crabapples. For example, dark treatment should be started when the stem is 5-7 cm long, starting at 5 pm and ending at 8 am. Depending on the variety, growth and weather conditions require 7-14 days of dark treatment, but be careful not to let the internal temperature be too high, otherwise it will lead to excessive energy consumption, leggy growth, and pests and diseases. The natural short daylight period from September to March requires an extension of the light time to 14 hours. 4. Preparation of the substrate . The ratio of peat soil: perlite is 4:1. The soil pH is adjusted to 5.3 -5.5. Other substrates can also be used, but they require good fertilizer retention and ventilation. 5. Regular Fertilization Begonias are very sensitive to nutrient deficiency or excess, so fertilization should be applied regularly with thin fertilizers, preferably once or twice a week, and the total concentration of each fertilizer application should not be higher than 2 grams/liter. In the early stage of cultivation, use a compound fertilizer with a nitrogen:potassium ratio of 1:1, such as 17-6-18. In the later stage, it is hoped that a compound fertilizer with a nitrogen:potassium ratio of 1:2 should be used to maintain the pH value of the fertilizer solution between 5.3 and 6.0. Fertilize 2-3 times a week, and a nitrogen concentration of 100-200 ppm is more appropriate. 6. Main Cultivation Techniques 1. Potting: Generally, a 15 cm high flower pot is used. Two plants are planted in each pot. After potting, the soil surface should be level with or slightly higher than the surface of the rooting seedling substrate. Water thoroughly after planting, and then water a little every day for the next three days. Begonias are gregarious plants. During the growth of seedlings, they should be placed pot by pot to promote bud formation, and thinned out before the lateral buds have fully developed but have not grown leggy. The final plant spacing of the finished flower is 25 cm × 25 cm. 2. Topping and shaping: Topping is done 10-14 days after potting, and at least 3 branches grow from the base of the plant so that the plant can reach the expected size. The finished product can be sold two to two and a half months after topping.

I bought a plate of Daphne Thanb yesterday, and today I went to the flower bed to check the information about Daphne Thanb. I did some collection. I just found that Daphne Thanb was not in the directory column of the original poster, so I posted it here. The following information about Daphne Thanb comes from the flower friends of this flower bed.
Daphne Thanb
Chinese name: Daphne
Thanb Alias: Penglai flower, Fengliu tree
Family: Thymelaeaceae Daphne Thanb
Origin: Native, distributed in all provinces in the south of the Yangtze River.
Habit: Daphne Thanb is an evergreen shrub that can reach 2 meters in height. Its branches are slender, smooth and hairless; the leaves are alternate, oblong, and entire; the head inflorescence grows at the top of the branch, with white, purple, and red pulp-shaped fruits, red spherical. It blooms in winter and spring, with a strong fragrance. Its variants include Daphne Thanb, White Daphne Thanb, and Rose Daphne Thanb.
Daphne odora is famous for its good appearance, color, fragrance and charm. It has extremely high ornamental and medicinal value. Its roots, stems, leaves and flowers can be used as medicine. Its flowering period is at the beginning of the Spring Festival. When people celebrate the Spring Festival, it blooms in clusters and clusters, with flowers blooming like brocade, and the fragrance is refreshing, making the festival more joyful, which fits people's good wishes of "auspiciousness" and "flowers blooming and wealth".
Daphne odora, also known as Qianlixiang, Penglai flower, and Lujia, is an evergreen shrub. The plant is 1 to 2 meters tall, and the branches are smooth and hairless. Single leaves are alternate, oblong to obovate, 5 to 8 cm long, entire, hairless, thick, dark green and shiny on the surface, and the petiole is short and thick. The perianth is tubular, 4-lobed at the end, about 1.5 cm in diameter, white flowers or mixed red-purple, with a strong fragrance. The flowering period is from March to April. The drupe is fleshy, spherical, red when ripe, and ripens in July. There are about 95 species of Daphne plants in the world, and 35 of them are in the genus Daphne. Currently, there are nine main species widely cultivated in gardens. The leaf margins of Daphne odora are golden yellow, the tip of the petals are 5-lobed white, the base is purple-red, and the fragrance is like cloves. It blooms from the end of January to the beginning of February and is a good flower for Spring Festival decoration. Its flowers are deciduous shrubs, 0.5 to 1 meter high, and bloom before the leaves are unfolded. White Daphne odora is an evergreen shrub with pure white and fragrant flowers. Yellow Daphne odora is less than 1 meter tall, and leaves fall in winter. The flowers are yellow and hairy. 3 to 8 flowers are clustered at the end of the branches in a head-shaped inflorescence, with a slight fragrance. Concave-leaf Daphne odora is an evergreen shrub with yellow-green leaves, blunt and slightly concave tips, and the edges are curled outwards. The outer edge of the flower is light purple-red, the inner edge is white, and the flower plate tube diameter is 2 cm. Hairy Daphne odora is also called the octopus golden dragon. The outer side of the perianth has yellow silk hairs, the flowers are white and fragrant, and the fruit is orange when ripe. Rose Daphne is also called Water Daphne. The inside of the perianth lobes is white and the surface is pink. Pale Red Daphne has dark green leaves and light reddish purple flowers. Gansu Daphne is an evergreen shrub with light purple or purple-red corolla outside, white inside, fragrant, and red fruit.

Soil
1. It doesn't matter. As long as loess is added, there will be some compaction phenomenon, and mine is also so, so I often use a knife to loosen the soil. Daphne needs slightly acidic soil. After your pot is adapted, during the normal growth period, if you feel that the pot soil is too compacted, you can pour some 2% ferrous sulfate dilution, which can also prevent the leaves of Daphne from turning yellow.
2. Daphne is suitable for growing in fertile, moist, well-drained acidic soil. It is afraid of rain, waterlogging, and salt and alkali. 3.
Repot every 2-3 years. Repotting can be done indoors in March. The pot soil should be slightly acidic soil, and hoof slices should be placed at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer.
4. Repot after flowering every three years, cut off old roots with rotten roots, keep the soil, and do not move the roots too much. It is advisable to use slightly acidic soil mixed with mountain yellow mud and humus soil.
5. The potting soil is mainly neutral and slightly acidic sandy soil. If it is close to the Yangtze River, you can get river sand and river sand from the shore during the winter dry season. If there are no rivers, you can take red sand or red molding sand from the foundry workshop of the factory. In addition, 40% of leaf humus, pine needle soil, peat soil, rice husk ash, etc. should be mixed in. It is not suitable to use base fertilizer for potting soil, and liquid fertilizer should be applied in time. Liquid fertilizer is preferably mixed with soybean water (grind or boil soybeans and ferment for at least one year. Soybean fertilizer is mild, while animal fertilizer is irritating) and potassium dihydrogen phosphate water (high-efficiency and fast-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, dilute the crystal particles with one thousand times water).
6. Soil is fundamental to the growth of Daphne odora, because it needs a variety of nutrients and good air permeability and must not have bacteria. For aromatic plants with fleshy roots, bacteria are quite harmful. If you are not careful, the roots will rot or stem rot. Therefore, the soil requirements are very strict. The soil for cultivating Daphne odora is roughly divided into three layers: upper, middle and lower. The upper layer is made of pond mud, which is dried in the sun, and then burned with dry firewood. Do not break it up, so as to avoid mud from falling on the leaves when it rains, which can prevent stem rot. The middle layer is made of firewood and leaf humus, which is steamed in a steamer, and then the pH is measured with a wide-field test paper. The pH value should be between 6 and 7. If the pH value is greater than 7, acetic acid or ferrous sulfate is used to make it slightly acidic. Then dry it in the sun and add 5% bone meal. This avoids the introduction of bacteria, has good air permeability, and contains phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and trace elements required for growth. Use clean coal slag in the lower layer, which is easy to absorb water and the pot soil is easy to dry, which is beneficial to the growth of Daphne. Generally, it can be successful according to this method.

Water
1. Daphne odora likes to grow in a moist, non-waterlogged soil environment, and the suitable soil humidity is about 75%. Soil humidity <20% is easy to cause root death; long-term dampness or waterlogging of the pot soil, poor soil ventilation conditions, and soil humidity >90% will cause root rot and disease.
2. There are many rainy days and high air humidity at the turn of spring and summer, so attention should be paid to drainage and long-term rain prevention; in summer, the temperature is high, the evaporation is large, and the pot soil is easy to dry. Watering should be done in the morning and evening; watering in the morning or afternoon in spring and autumn, and watering at noon in winter. Maintaining appropriate soil humidity for watering is the key to the normal growth and development of Daphne odora.
3. In summer, place it in a semi-shaded and rain-proof place, and don't let it rain heavily, otherwise it will easily rot.
4. Waterlogging means that the water cannot be drained for a long time, the roots are always submerged in water, unable to breathe, and it is easy to cause the roots to fall off. Therefore, each flower pot has a water hole to drain excess water so that the pot soil will not be waterlogged.
5. However, the pot soil that has just been watered should be wet. In winter, it may be wet for several days because the temperature is low. In summer, in addition to the roots absorbing part of the water, most of the water will evaporate, so the pot soil will dry faster.
6. Daphne is in a semi-dormant state in summer, so water less and place it in a cool and ventilated place. I put it in the north balcony with a roof and better ventilation. When the topsoil is dry and the leaves are a little droopy, use the sitting pot method to water (watering is done at night). When it is very hot, spray some water on the leaves at night. Don't worry about it when it rains or is cloudy. It seems to be growing well now, for reference.
7. For drought-resistant things, water less. The soil should be loose. It will be troublesome if it is not wet, and the leaves will wilt and it can't be saved. Don't water it and put it in a ventilated and shady place and wait for a miracle to happen.
8. For potted Daphne, summer management is very important. The flower pot should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, away from rain, direct sunlight, and hot wind. Watering should be done when the soil is dry and wet, and water should be sprayed on the leaves in summer to cool down. Daphne is not cold-resistant, so it must be moved indoors before winter and placed in a sunny place with the room temperature kept above 8 degrees.
9. Watering should follow the principle of watering when the soil is dry and wet. Especially in summer when the temperature is high and the air is dry, when Daphne odora is in a semi-dormant state, the pot soil should be slightly dry. However, the relative humidity of the air needs to be slightly higher, so the leaves need to be sprayed with water once or twice a day, and water should be sprinkled around to increase humidity. Water less during the Mid-Autumn Festival to stop the growth of summer shoots and promote the differentiation of flower buds.　　　　
At the same time, attention should be paid to providing reasonable light and ventilation conditions, doing a good job of wintering management and pest and disease control, and not moving the flower pots during the flowering period.

Fertilizer
1. Prune after flowering and apply fertilizer once every half a month to promote more branches
2. In the maintenance of Daphne odora odora, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied, and nitrogen-based fertilizers such as urea should be avoided to prevent the golden edges from degenerating.
3. The fertilizer for potted Daphne odora should be "thin fertilizer and frequent application, small amount and frequent feeding", and liquid fertilizer should be mainly applied. Among them:
Seedling stage: Fertilizer should be thin fertilizer and frequent application, small amount and frequent feeding.
Middle seedling stage: Apply more nitrogen and potassium fertilizer in early spring, once every 10-15 days; from late May to the end of June, mainly apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; in the hot season from July to August, try to apply less or no fertilizer; from late August to the end of October, apply nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer; when the flower buds swell in December, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 1-2 times to make the flowers large, with good color, strong fragrance and long flowering period; fertilization should be stopped during the flowering period. Generally speaking, the fertilizer concentration in the middle seedling stage should be 10%-15%.
　 Large seedling stage: Because the seedlings are planted in pots, there is a lot of soil and its nutrient supply is large, so it is sufficient to apply fertilizer several times in early spring, early summer and late autumn.
4. Daphne odora is not tolerant to concentrated fertilizer. When planting, use decomposed cake fertilizer plus superphosphate as base fertilizer, which can basically meet the requirements of the growth stage. Fertilization during the dormant period is not easily absorbed by the plant, and it is easy to cause no flowering and no new buds in the same year. After the buds appear, 1/2MS nutrient solution or other diluted liquid fertilizer can be applied 2 to 3 times a month. Adhere to the principle of thin fertilizer and frequent application. Do not apply undecomposed human feces and urine, and apply less urea. From 60 days before flowering to flowering, the fertilizer concentration can be appropriately increased. Edible rapeseed oil or sesame oil can also be applied at 3 points 5 cm away from the main root. 3ml each, the effect is quite good. Spraying 100mg/L potassium dihydrogen phosphate during the flowering period can extend the flowering period. All fertilization times should be selected in the morning and evening or in cool weather.
5. Daphne odora can be planted in the south in spring and autumn. Generally, it is mixed with deciduous shrubs to avoid sun exposure in summer and get enough sun in winter. When planting, compost or manure can be applied as base fertilizer in the hole, but not too much. Topdressing can be applied 1-2 times during the growth process. In winter, dig trenches around the plants for fertilizer application, but avoid applying human feces and urine.
6. For potted Daphne, the pot soil should be kept semi-dry and semi-wet, and fertilizer should be applied once in spring and autumn. In spring, during the budding and shoot period, use 30% decomposed bean cake and chicken manure mixed liquid fertilizer; in autumn, in late September, the fertilizer concentration should be light.
7. Strengthen fertilizer and water management: Stop root fertilization from July to August, but combine watering or spray 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution 2-3 times to promote strong branches and thick leaves; apply potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution once every 10 days in early September to promote flower bud differentiation and bud formation; spray 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution on the leaves once a month in winter to improve the plant's cold resistance, promote early flowering, and promote large, bright and long flowering periods. Stop fertilizing after the flowers bloom.

Light
1. Daphne odora should be kept in half shade and half sun, and the sun should not be directly exposed. When planting, be careful not to cover the nodes above the roots. Daphne odora should not be too wet, but the air humidity requirement is high. The roots of Daphne odora are sweet, so be careful to prevent insect pests.
2. Half shade means half sunlight without strong light
. It is enough to place it in a sunny place in the house with 3 to 6 hours of light every day. The temperature is suitable in this season, and it can still receive more light to help growth. 3. The location should not receive strong light. It can be placed anywhere as long as the environment is suitable, such as on the balcony or in the house.
4. Daphne odora is a flower that likes warmth and avoids high temperatures. It is relatively drought-resistant. In winter and spring, it needs sufficient sunlight for maintenance, and it can bloom at a temperature of about 10 degrees.
5. Daphne odora starts to sprout and grow when the average daily temperature rises to 10 ℃ in spring. Its most suitable growth temperature is 15-25 ℃. Within this range, the plant grows rapidly, and the seedlings can grow one leaf in 7-10 days. The lowest temperature that Daphne odora can withstand is -3 ℃. When the average temperature of the day is <5 ℃ or >35 ℃, the growth of Daphne odora stops or slows down.
6. Daphne odora is a shade-loving plant. If the sunlight is too strong, especially when the temperature is >35 ℃ and there is strong direct sunlight, the leaves are very easy to burn. In summer, the temperature is high and the light is strong, so a ventilated place should be selected to build a shade shed, and the potted Daphne odora should be placed in the shed (the pot is about 50 cm from the ground).
7. Shading treatment is carried out for 1 month in mid-July, with a shading rate of 75%, which can control the flowering period to appear around the Spring Festival. If you want to bloom early on New Year's Day, you can extend the light time, keep 10 hours of light every day, and treat it for 3 months. If you want to bloom early during the National Day, keep the light for 15 hours every day, and treat it for 2 months. If the shading time is postponed to September, shading is continued for 5 months, and the shading rate is 85%, the flowering period can be postponed to April or May of the following year.
8. Increasing the temperature can make Daphne odora bloom earlier, while lowering the temperature can delay its flowering. When the temperature is 20 ℃, flower buds can be formed in 60 days. After the flower buds are formed, as the temperature rises, the number of days required from budding to flowering tends to shorten. For example, when the temperature is between 21 and 25 ℃, it takes about 90 days from budding to flowering; when the temperature is between 26 and 30 ℃, it only takes about 70 days from budding to flowering. In a low temperature environment below 10 ℃, Daphne odora with flower buds can be delayed for 100 days to bloom. If it is controlled below 4 ℃, the flowering period will be delayed by about 120 days.
9. For Daphne odora with large flowers in spring and summer, flower control should generally start from late May, and gradually reduce the light time and control fertilization. That is, there is a transition from short-term shading to long-term shading, and the soil is kept moist. During the period of controlling flowers, it is strictly forbidden to keep the soil too dry, otherwise the perianth will be short, the flower color will be dry and lifeless, the bracts will be rolled up and difficult to unfold, and they will wilt and fall early. Even if the light and water are increased later, the assimilation of the plant will be difficult to recover. Under normal circumstances, the controlled spring and summer shoots of large flower seedlings generally start to increase the water content of the pot soil appropriately from January, increase the light and allow it to receive dew at night. After a period of assimilation, the leaves of the plant will become shiny and straight, and the perianth will turn red. The flower clusters will open during the Spring Festival, making the golden edge Daphne beautiful and fragrant.
10. Flower promotion is mainly a measure taken for a few golden edge Daphne with autumn shoots, which are affected by factors such as late pruning, improper fertilizer and water application or insufficient light, which delays the flowering period. Its main practices are: keep the pot soil moist, increase phosphorus fertilizer, spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate and growth hormones, such as plant protection, Lubokang, Penshibao, Aiduoshou, etc.
11. Daphne odora is not tolerant to concentrated fertilizer. When planting, use decomposed cake fertilizer plus superphosphate as base fertilizer, which can basically meet the requirements of the growth stage. Fertilization during the dormant period is not easily absorbed by the plant, and it is easy to cause no flowering and no new buds in the same year. After the buds appear, 1/2MS nutrient solution or other diluted liquid fertilizer can be applied 2 to 3 times a month. Adhere to the principle of thin fertilizer and frequent application. Do not apply undecomposed human feces and urine, and apply less urea. From 60 days before flowering to flowering, the fertilizer concentration can be appropriately increased. Edible rapeseed oil or sesame oil can also be applied at 3 points 5 cm away from the main root, 3 ml each, with good results. Spraying 100mg/L potassium dihydrogen phosphate during the flowering period can prolong the flowering period. All fertilization times should be selected in the morning and evening or in cool weather.

1.
The shaping of Daphne odora is to make it sprout early and grow more branches from seedlings to large seedlings through measures such as pinching, bud removal, thinning, tying, and pulling branches, so that it can form a tree shape with a large crown, reasonable branch configuration, luxuriant branches and leaves, and many large flowers with high ornamental value.
2. Small seedling shaping: mainly pinching and bud removal, cultivating 2 to 3 branches and 6 to 9 secondary branches.
3. Medium seedling shaping: through pinching and bud removal, cultivate more sturdy branches and expand the crown, so that it can bloom more flowers during the Spring Festival.
4. Daphne odora has strong germination ability and is resistant to pruning. In summer, pay attention to pruning off the long branches and leaves.
5. Through summer pruning and other measures, Daphne odora can make its first batch of flowers bloom in late January and fade at the end of February; the second batch of flowers begins to bloom at the end of February and fades in early April. The flowering period is more than two months, which is about 1 times longer than conventional cultivation.　　　　
6. Summer pruning: Taking advantage of the characteristics of Daphne odora’s tolerance to pruning and strong apical dominance, the pruning method of removing the top to promote sprouting is adopted. In June and July, part of the new shoots or 1/2 of the new shoots of the year are cut off in batches (the cut branches can be used for water or soil insertion) to promote the lateral buds under the cut to sprout new branches.　　　　
7. Daphne odora undergoes flower bud differentiation and bud formation after autumn. The uncut spring shoots have stopped growing long ago, so they undergo flower bud differentiation and bud formation after autumn. The summer shoots that sprout after pruning have not stopped growing in early autumn, so the flower bud differentiation is slightly later, thus extending the flowering period.
8. Modeling Daphne odora’s branches are soft and easy to shape. After flowering, use fine lead wire to wrap the branches, straighten one branch as the main trunk, and flatten the rest in the horizontal direction, evenly distributed, leaving about 8 cm of cutting tips, and soon each branch will have two to three side branches. After flowering the following year, leave about 6 cm of cutting tips on each branch. After two cutting tips and climbing, a hemispherical plant can be formed.
 
Cutting
1. Because the pistils and stamens of Daphne koreana are easy to degenerate, it is difficult to propagate by seeds, so asexual reproduction is generally carried out. That is, the regeneration ability of its vegetative organs is used to form new individuals. At present, the most commonly used method is to propagate by cuttings of tender branches (semi-lignified branches of the current year).
2. Cutting time: Cuttings can be carried out from March to November, and May to June is the best time for cuttings.
Seedbed setting: The cutting medium should be loose, heat-insulating, moisturizing, and breathable soil.
Seedbed setting: The cutting medium should be loose, heat-insulating, moisturizing, and breathable soil.
Cutting selection: 1) 1-3 year old seedlings are the best for mother trees; 2) Cuttings should be selected from branches that are grown in the current year and are semi-lignified; 3) Cuttings should be selected that are thick, have full axillary buds, and are free of diseases and insect pests; 4) The branches of Daphne odora should be cut into about 6 cm, and 4-8 leaves should be left. The cut branches should be processed immediately and should not be left for too long to avoid water loss and affect the survival rate.
Cutting treatment: Dip the vitamin B12 solution directly on the base of the trimmed cuttings, and insert it into the substrate immediately after the solution is dry.
Cuttings: Before cutting, the substrate on the bed should be flattened and slightly pressed, and then 1‰ potassium permanganate solution should be used for disinfection. Under normal circumstances, the best cutting density is 6 cm×6 cm.
3. Potting: When the roots of the seedlings in the seedbed grow to 3-5 cm, they should be transplanted into pots.
4. Repotting: As the plant grows, the root system is easily blocked. The original pot has less soil and limited nutrient supply, which cannot meet the needs of plant regeneration. A larger pot should be used and the amount of soil should be increased. Repotting can be done all year round, but the best time is from November to February of the following year.
5. Water plugging. Water plugging is usually done in summer, when new branches tend to mature, which is a good season for water plugging. Water plugging has fast rooting and a high survival rate (almost 100%), which can reduce the number of water spraying. The specific method is: take branches of the current year, 8-12 cm long. The day before cutting the strips, it is best to cut a circle with a sharp knife 1-2 mm from the branch point (do not use scissors to cut), which can accelerate healing and rooting. After girdling the branch point, smooth the wound, remove the leaves on the lower half of the branch, keep 3-4 leaves on the upper part, and cut off the rest. Then insert it into a wide-mouth bottle prepared in advance. Fill the bottle with water about 3/4 and drip 2-3 drops of vinegar. The cuttings are about 1/3 in water, straightened and fixed. Cover the bottle mouth with gauze and tie it tightly. After inserting, place it on the indoor windowsill. When the water volume decreases, add water to the original water level. After about 5 days, spray the leaves with water 1-2 times, change the water once a week, and it will take root within a month. Transplant to the pot in time.
6. Bud cuttings. Bud cuttings are carried out before germination in spring. The cuttings are selected from the full and strong branches of the current year in the middle and upper parts of the crown, leaving a leaf on the upper part. There should be obvious bud points in the bud axils. It is better to use cuttings with one leaf and one bud. When taking the cuttings, you must use a sharp knife to cut from the upper part of the axillary buds, cut them obliquely, and cut them into a horse ear shape. Be careful not to damage the axillary buds to facilitate rooting and sprouting. Use loose leaf soil plus 30% fine sand as the cutting medium to facilitate the insertion and fixation of short cuttings. It should be noted that the loose leaf soil and fine sand medium must be exposed to the sun for disinfection before cutting. When cutting, insert 1/2 of the cutting into the soil, press it firmly after inserting, sprinkle water slightly, keep it moist, and it will take about 40 days for the cutting to take root and survive. After new branches grow, transplant it to the pot in the spring of the following year.

Disease
1. The diseases that harm Daphne odora mainly include stem rot, mosaic disease, anthracnose, etc., and the pests include aphids, scale insects, earthworms, etc. The prevention and control of Daphne odora diseases and pests should be comprehensively controlled from the following aspects:
2. Strengthen the management of flower beds, strictly control the spread of pathogens in the flower beds, maintain good flower bed hygiene, and eliminate the source of protozoa.
3. Apply pesticides scientifically: 1) Apply pesticides to the seedbed. Soak with 1‰ potassium permanganate solution before cutting; 2) Disinfect the Daphne odora seedlings and soil when transplanting, and soak the pot soil with 500 times solution; 3) Spray the pesticides in time at each sprouting period.
4. It is best to repot Daphne odora in spring. Earthworms in pots can be treated with furadan, trichlorfon powder, etc., or special soil insecticides can be used. Furadan is very cheap and has a great effect. Sprinkle a little, cover with a thin layer of soil, spray or water, and the insects in the soil will definitely die. However, furadan is a highly toxic pesticide, so it is best not to use it in the room. It should be fine on the balcony or corridor, or you can leave it somewhere overnight and then take it home.
5. Daphne is susceptible to red spider mites, aphids, and scale insects during dry and hot weather in summer. It can be sprayed with 1000-1200 times of dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate. In addition, the roots of Daphne plants are sweet and easy to hide earthworms. Too many earthworms will entangle the roots of Daphne, which will affect the absorption of water and nutrients by the plants. The plants can be dug out, the earthworms can be removed, and then replanted. The disease is mainly caused by mosaic disease caused by viruses. After infection, the leaves of the plants will have spots and deformities, which will cause poor flowering and stagnation of growth. If this virus infection is found, the roots should be dug out and the plants destroyed.

Four "likes, dislikes" of Daphne odora
  Wild Daphne odora has been carefully cultivated by generations of flower growers. Horticultural varieties include: white Daphne odora with white flowers, red Daphne odora with red flowers, purple Daphne odora with purple flowers, yellow Daphne odora with yellow flowers, five-color Daphne odora with red, white, purple and yellow flowers, and gold-edged Daphne odora with golden edges. Among them, the gold-edged Daphne odora is the most precious. There is a saying that "peony flowers are beautiful and fragrant, and Daphne odora with golden edges is the best." The key points of Daphne odora cultivation and management are four "likes, likes, dislikes, and dislikes." It is suitable for growing at a temperature of 15-25℃: if it is below 15℃, it should be covered with plastic film to keep warm and moisturize; if it is above 25℃, a shed should be built to provide shade, so that it can grow quickly and healthily. The four "like, love, want, and avoid" mean: 1. Like warmth, love ventilation, want half dry and half wet, avoid too much water; 2. Like moderate acidity, love loose loam, want shallow soil, avoid planting deep; 3. Like scattered light, love long light, want half shade and half sun, avoid strong light; 4. Like nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, love base fertilizer, want thin fertilizer and frequent application, avoid fertilizer on flowers.

Cultivation of Daphne odora in summer　
　　The hot summer weather is the season for the high incidence of diseases and insect pests of Daphne odora. To prevent and reduce the occurrence and harm of diseases and insect pests, we should strengthen management and do the following work: First, move the potted flowers cultivated in the open air (opening shed) into the greenhouse (covered shed) for cultivation and management to prevent heavy rain from washing and water accumulation in the pot soil. Second, carry out the second shaping according to the requirements of mushroom shape or crown shape. Third, rearrange the potted flowers and place them loosely to facilitate ventilation. Fourth, it is necessary to remove old leaves and weeds inside and outside the pots in time, maintain good environmental hygiene around the flowerbed, and avoid the spread of pathogenic organisms. Fifth, it is necessary to do a good job of cooling down to prevent potted flowers from being directly exposed to strong light. A layer of movable shading net with a shading rate of 90% should be added in the shed. It should be opened in the morning and evening without shading, and covered when the light is strong and the temperature is high. Sixth, it is necessary to distinguish different potted flowers and adopt different water and fertilizer management. Potted flowers over three years old can be controlled by controlling water, fertilizer, and light to inhibit the emergence of branches and leaves, and change from vegetative growth to reproductive growth. After the transition to reproductive growth, the pot soil can be slightly drier. If it is not dry, do not water it. If you water it, water it thoroughly. Fertilization can be less, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, and less nitrogen fertilizers. For potted flowers that continue to grow and develop, water and fertilizer can be more frequent. The pot soil should be kept moist, but not too wet. Fertilization can be more frequent, and more nitrogen fertilizers can be used. Seventh, we should strengthen the prevention and inspection of pests and diseases. When the temperature rises above 30℃, we should insist on adding fungicides such as dichlorvos or thiophanate to the fertilizer water every 10-15 days to prevent the occurrence of stem rot. In summer, aphids and scale insects are the main hazards. We should strengthen inspections. Once found, they should be killed in time. If the quantity is saved, they can be crushed to death by hand to prevent their reproduction and spread. When the number is large, 40% omethoate 1000 times solution or 80% dichlorvos 1500 times solution can be used to kill.

Winter maintenance of Daphne:
  Daphne is fragrant, with beautiful plant shape and leaf color, so it is deeply loved by families. Legend has it that a monk in Lushan slept on a rock during the day and was awakened by the strong fragrance in his sleep. Later, he found the flower plant and named it "Sleeping Fragrance". Because it blooms around the cold Spring Festival, people think it is auspicious, so it is renamed "Daphne". The flowering period of Daphne odora is when all the flowers have faded away, and its fragrance is a mixed fragrance. In the old days, it was called "fragrant flower". Among the varieties of Daphne odora, the best one is the golden-edged Daphne odora. It likes scattered light, avoids the scorching sun, and needs to be shaded in the hot summer. It is winter now, and it needs to be brought indoors for maintenance. It should be placed in the south window to receive sunlight during the day, and should not be placed in the window at night. It needs to be moved to a place with a temperature not lower than 5℃.
  In addition, it is also necessary to pay attention to its taboos: avoid too wet pot soil, avoid concentrated fertilizer and raw fertilizer, avoid alkaline soil, avoid rain, avoid earthworms, ants and other insects in the pot. Daphne odora is close to flowering period, and the above points must be paid special attention to avoid falling buds and flowers. Usually, pay attention to the golden-edged leaves of the golden-edged Daphne odora. If the gold and green colors are clearly shiny, and the leaves are upright and upward, it means that the fertilizer and water are normal; if the leaves droop, it means that the fertilizer is too concentrated, too raw, too frequent, or the watering is too much or too frequent. Find out the reasons and take measures. Too much watering is easy to correct; if the fertilizer is used improperly, you can water it several times continuously to let the fertilizer flow out of the pot, and then place it in a ventilated place to promote the quick drying of the pot soil. If the roots are rotten, you must turn the pot, cut off the rotten roots, wash it with fungicides, and plant it in sandy soil to let it grow new roots. The upper branches and leaves should also be cut off accordingly.

The year of Daphne odora
1. Starting from early summer, potted Daphne odora should be placed under the shade of trees or in a shade shed to avoid strong light exposure. The plant pot should not be placed directly on the ground to prevent the fragrance of the flowers from attracting ants and earthworms. Daphne odora is more resistant to pruning. Generally, the dense branches can be pruned before germination, leaving a certain gap to facilitate ventilation and light transmission. The four "likes and taboos" of Daphne odora Wild Daphne odora has been carefully cultivated by generations of flower farmers.
2. After Daphne odora blooms around the Spring Festival, it enters the peak period of germination and growth throughout the year. Daphne odora should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight and good air circulation in a greenhouse or home. Keep the leaves clean and the pot soil not too dry or too wet. Do not let it freeze, and do not let coal smoke and oil smoke indoors. At this time, you should hurry to fertilize. The fertilizer is mainly nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer, which is often a mixture of cake fertilizer and fish fertilizer. But it must be a fully fermented fertilizer liquid, and a small amount of black alum water must be added. The fertilizer for Daphne odora should not be concentrated, but light. It is strictly forbidden to use human feces and urine fertilizer liquid. Fertilization should be done once in late February, early March and late March respectively. The time for fertilization should be chosen on a sunny day with sunshine, preferably before 10 am. Spray the leaves with water after 5 pm on the day of fertilization. The water cannot be newly released tap water, it is best to use water that has been exposed to the sun, or water that has been stored indoors for a day, and the water temperature cannot be lower than the indoor temperature. Do not sprinkle the fertilizer liquid on the leaves. If it is sprinkled on the leaves, rinse it off immediately with water from a spray bottle.
3. Before the Qingming Festival at the end of March, Daphne can be taken out of the room, but it must be protected from strong winds and heavy rain to prevent the new buds of Daphne from being damaged.
4. By the end of April, the light exposure time will be gradually shortened.
5. From mid-June to mid-September, it can be kept out of the light all day. Because in summer, Daphne basically stops growing and enters a semi-dormant state. During this period, it is prevented from being exposed to heavy rain and it is strictly forbidden to fertilize. It is also necessary to create a cool and ventilated environment for it and reduce the amount of watering.
6. After Daphne has passed the summer, it can see some morning sunlight from the end of September to the beginning of October, preferably 2 to 3 hours. Later, the light exposure time can be gradually extended, and it can be exposed to the light all day by the end of October.
7. According to the different climate conditions in different places, Daphne should be brought into the room in October or early November, and placed in a place with long light exposure time after entering the room.
8. Apply thin fertilizer liquid once in mid-November and early and late December. Because the flower buds of Daphne grow slowly, fertilizer cannot be applied too frequently, too much, or too concentrated, but fertilizer cannot be omitted.
After the Osmanthus fragrans blooms, it produces few new buds and no branches. In autumn, it produces few buds, small flowers, weak fragrance, and a short flowering period. These are all caused by poor management and maintenance.

Reasons for the sudden leaf shedding of Osmanthus fragrans:
(1) Normal leaf shedding. After Osmanthus fragrans sprouts branches and leaves, as new leaves grow in large numbers, old leaves will continue to fall off. This is normal metabolism.
(2) Abnormal leaf shedding.
① Excessive light. Osmanthus fragrans prefers a semi-shady environment. When exposed to the sun, the leaves will burn and turn white, and the leaves will fall. Shade should be provided in summer and autumn.
② The potting soil is too wet. Osmanthus fragrans has fleshy roots and is therefore resistant to dryness and hates wetness. When the potting soil is too wet, the roots will rot and cause leaf shedding. When watering Osmanthus fragrans, it is advisable to keep the watering in a state of "alternating dry and wet", especially during the high temperatures in summer. Avoid excessive watering or sudden rain.
③ The potting soil is too dry. Although Daphne odora prefers high and dry soil, when the soil in the pot is too dry, the leaves will curl, shrivel and fall off because the plant cannot get water.
④ Improper fertilization. Daphne odora is not suitable for concentrated fertilizers and raw fertilizers. The application of concentrated fertilizers and raw fertilizers will cause the leaves to fall off, especially when the leaves are contaminated by concentrated fertilizers, which will cause the leaves to fall off quickly. Fertilization of Daphne odora should be done with thin fertilizers, and the leaves should be washed with clean water after fertilization. At the same time, human feces and urine should be avoided. After severe leaf fall, watering should be controlled and fertilization should be stopped. Regular maintenance and management can only be carried out after normal growth is restored.

Hibiscus
(Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is also known as Buddha hibiscus and red hibiscus. It belongs to the Malvaceae family and the genus Hibiscus. Hibiscus is a famous flower and is widely cultivated in southern China. It has a long flowering period, almost all year round, with large and colorful flowers and a large number of flowers. In addition, it is easy to manage. In addition to being popular in subtropical landscaping, it is also an important greenhouse and indoor flower in the Yangtze River Basin and the areas north of it.
  Hibiscus has bright and eye-catching flowers, blooming in the morning and withering in the evening, and is colorful. In the south, it is often planted by the poolside, in front of the pavilion, on the roadside and by the wall. Potted hibiscus is suitable for living rooms and entrances.
There are many varieties of hibiscus. There are more than 3,000 species in the world, with Hawaii having the most. There are not many varieties so far. It is customary to classify them based on the petals as the first level, the color as the second level, and the diameter as the third level. The varieties suitable for garden planting include small spinning powder, mini white, flower on flower, pink peony, pink Xishi, etc., and the varieties suitable for potted plants include bright red, etc.

Soil
1. It is not strict with soil, but it grows best in fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil
. 2. Ecological habits have a wide range of adaptability to soil, but it grows best in slightly acidic loam rich in organic matter and PH6.5-PH7.
3. It is best to use unglazed pots or wooden barrels (pots) for potted hibiscus. These two types of pots have good air permeability, which is convenient for the hibiscus root system to breathe and absorb water and fertilizer.

Fertilizer
1.: Hibiscus is more tolerant to fertilizer. Fertilize once a month during the growth period, and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers 2-3 times during the flowering period. Insufficient light will cause the buds to fall off easily, the flowers will become smaller, and the color will be dull.
2. Apply more foliar fertilizer potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves, and water the fermented bean cake water once a week. Also, do not water every day. See dry and wet, and expose to the sun for a while every day, and the flowers will bloom continuously.
3. It is best to use homemade fertilizer alum water for fertilization, which is well absorbed and effective. Use a plastic bucket with a lid, pour the inedible intestines of chickens and fish at home, waste water from washing chickens, fish and meat, rice washing water, etc. into the bucket, add an appropriate amount of black alum (ferrous sulfate), tighten the lid and ferment, and ferment for 2 months in summer and 3 months in autumn to make fertilizer alum water. Be sure to dilute it with water when using it, and don't make it too concentrated to prevent root damage. If you are afraid that the fertilizer alum water has a peculiar smell, you can put an appropriate amount of vinegar or orange peel in the bucket to reduce the odor. You can also go directly to the flower market to buy bags of acidic flower fertilizer, put it in a flowerpot, break the soil and bury it shallowly, and then pour water to eliminate the odor.
4. Stop fertilizing from October to avoid greed for green and flowers, which is not conducive to physiological dormancy. As long as the hibiscus grows normally, don't rush to apply fertilizer, especially when it just enters the greenhouse, you should stop applying fertilizer to avoid falling leaves.
5. Hibiscus is a plant with extensive management, and is often cultivated as a flower hedge in the south. In the flowering period, in addition to sufficient light, cake fertilizer or compound fertilizer should be applied once a week.
6. Why does hibiscus not bloom: insufficient nutrients. Hibiscus grows in large quantities and blooms in large numbers. To maintain its normal growth and flowering, it needs to consume a lot of nutrients. Insufficient nutrients will affect the growth and flowering of the plant and cause bud drop. During the growth and flowering period, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium combined fertilizers should be applied every 7 to 10 days. When the branches and leaves grow normally but do not bloom, phosphorus fertilizer can be added to promote bud formation and flowering.

Water
1. Hibiscus likes large amounts of water and fertilizer. But it is afraid of waterlogging. Once it is flooded, the leaves will turn yellow.
2. Watering should be sufficient during the growing season. It cannot be lacking in water or being flooded. It is usually watered once a day, and once in the morning and evening in the dog days. Water the ground frequently to increase humidity and reduce temperature to prevent tender leaves from burning and flowers from falling early.
3. It likes higher air humidity. In hot and dry seasons, water should be sprayed around the plant and on the leaves frequently.
4. Although the flowering period of hibiscus is relatively long (it can continuously produce buds, and the number of buds is large, laying the foundation for a long flowering period), the flowering period of each flower is very short. In hot and dry summer, it can only bloom for more than one day. When it is rainy and the temperature drops in late summer and early autumn, each flower can only bloom for 2 to 3 days. Because hibiscus has many buds, it needs a lot of water, fertilizer and sufficient sunlight. Especially in the peak flowering period in summer, water once or twice a day depending on the temperature and the dryness and wetness of the pot soil, and water thoroughly when it is dry. Prevent water shortage and root rot caused by half-watering and too much watering. Spray water on the leaves and around the flowerpot at noon to cool down and maintain air humidity for growth. Never spray water on the flowers, because the scorching sun in midsummer can cause damage to the flowers and affect the viewing.
5. During the winter indoors, the pot soil should be dry and avoid moisture, so watering should be controlled to keep the pot soil slightly moist. Generally, watering can be done once every 5 to 7 days. The amount of water should not be too much to prevent low temperature and high humidity from causing root rot and death.

Light
1. Because it likes strong sunlight, it is more suitable to be cultivated when living in a bungalow with a spacious courtyard or a large balcony in a building.
2. It likes warm and humid climate, is not resistant to cold and frost, and is shade-tolerant. It is suitable to grow
in a sunny and ventilated place. 3. It likes sufficient sunlight. It can be cultivated in the sun in spring, summer and autumn, and placed in a place with direct light indoors in
winter. 4. Hibiscus is a positive flower, so it should be exposed to more than four hours of light every day in winter. It should not be placed in the corner of the indoor wall because the air is stagnant and the light is less.
5. The temperature in winter should not be lower than 5 degrees Celsius. In Nanjing area, it must be moved indoors for winter. After the weather cools at the end of October, move it into the greenhouse, keep the temperature above 12 C, control watering, and stop fertilizing.
6. Hibiscus is a strong positive plant. It likes warmth and humidity. It requires sufficient sunlight. It is not shade-tolerant, cold-tolerant, and drought-tolerant. In the Yangtze River Basin and the areas to the north, it can only be potted and kept in a greenhouse or other protected areas at a temperature of 12C to 15C to survive the winter. If it is higher than 15℃, the hibiscus will not be fully dormant, which will inevitably affect flowering next year. If it is lower than 5℃, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off, and it will be susceptible to frost damage and fail to survive the winter.
7. What is the reason why hibiscus does not bloom: Hibiscus needs sufficient sunlight for normal growth, and there should be more than 8 hours of light every day. Insufficient light will affect flowering or cause falling flowers and buds.
8. The reason why hibiscus fails to be raised in northern families is mostly because they are frozen to death because they did not survive the winter safely. Because hibiscus is a tropical summer flower in the south, it likes sunlight and is not cold-tolerant. The climate in the north is cold, and there is no condition to build a greenhouse for family flower cultivation, so whether the hibiscus can survive the winter safely is the key. When the temperature drops to 6℃, the hibiscus must be moved indoors to prevent frostbite. You can cover the hibiscus with a plastic bag and poke a few small holes in the plastic bag to let it breathe. Keep the pot soil slightly moist, because hibiscus has a hibernation habit, so don't water it too much to prevent artificial frost damage.

Repair
1. Potted hibiscus is generally taken out of the house in April. Change the pot before taking it out of the house, and properly shape and prune it to maintain a beautiful crown
2. After the spring, the temperature gradually rises and the hibiscus begins to sprout. To make the hibiscus bloom continuously in summer, you must pay attention to the pruning of its branches and timely bud removal. It is a contradiction to keep the potted hibiscus at home to prevent the plant from being too large and too high, making it difficult to move and affect the placement, and to make its branches lush and bloom more. The best way to solve this problem is to cut the main stalk of the hibiscus about 10 cm out of the ground, retain 3 to 5 main branches, and retain 2 to 3 branches on each main branch, and prune it into a bush-like shape, which can make the hibiscus branches plump and lush with more buds, laying the foundation for continuous flowering. The second is to remove the buds in time. Every bud that hibiscus sprouts in spring can develop into a flowering branch. At this time, it is necessary to remove the buds in time, otherwise the branches will grow disorderly, become thin and long, and the nutrients will be dispersed, and the flowers will be few and small. The specific requirements for removing buds are usually: remove the sick and weak buds and keep the strong buds; remove the overlapping buds and keep the sparse buds; remove the inner buds and keep the outer buds.
3. Pruning can control unnecessary growth consumption, promote tissue enrichment, and help to re-sprout the full plant shape and vigorous tree vigor in the next year. For this reason, half a month after the hibiscus is brought indoors in winter, all branches can be cut short from a height of about 25 cm. For older plants, heavy pruning can be carried out, that is, only 2 to 3 buds are retained at the base of each side branch, and the upper part is cut off. Of course, when pruning, pay attention to the internal and external orientation of the buds to reduce the blindness of the subsequent development of the sprouts.
4. There is no need to prune after the flowers fade. When repotting and changing the soil in the spring of the next year, heavy pruning is carried out. Remove 1/2 of the branches of the current year. It is more appropriate to choose the spring of the following year for pruning. Pruning in winter will cause the branches to wither easily
. 5. Generally, three (120 degrees) main branches are left, and side branches are cultivated on the main branches (these are the branches that can bloom). After that, the second layer of main branches are cultivated. Only in this way can a tree with a full structure be formed.

1.
Grafting, mostly used for double-flowered varieties that are difficult to cut, can be grafted by branch or bud, and the rootstock is single-flowered hibiscus.
2. Cutting propagation is commonly used. It can be cut at any time from early spring to late autumn. The survival rate is highest in the rainy season. It can only be carried out in a greenhouse in winter. The best cuttings are semi-woody one-year-olds, about 10 cm long. Cut off the lower leaves and keep the top leaves. The incision should be flat and inserted into the sand bed. Spray water every day to maintain a high air humidity. Rooting will take place three weeks after cutting, and it can be potted after 45 days of growth.

Disease
1. The cultivation site is poorly ventilated and lacks light, and aphids, scale insects, sooty mold, etc. often occur. Attention should be paid to improving environmental conditions and choosing appropriate pesticides for spraying and prevention.
2. Flower buds fall off: This happens sometimes because of insufficient fertilizer. Have you moved it to a new place? This is the most taboo during the bud stage. Hibiscus is easy to grow and needs sufficient light. Even if this batch of flower buds falls off, new ones will come out. Don't worry too much... Fertilize once every 10 days during the flowering period; the pot soil cannot be dry during the flowering period, pay attention to watering, but don't water it on the flowers; water twice a day (in summer), and apply thin fertilizer.

Daphne odora Thunb, scientific name Daphne odora Thunb, alias sleeping incense, dew armor, wind flow tree, Penglai flower, Thousand Miles Fragrance, Ruilan. It is a traditional famous flower, an evergreen shrub of the genus Daphne in the family Thymelaeaceae, with single alternate leaves, oblong leaves, thick and shiny, entire, dark green. The terminal head inflorescence, tubular buds are purple-red, four-lobed when the flowers bloom, the petals are thick, milky white on the front, purple-red on the back, and the stamens are golden yellow, which is very lovely. When it blooms, it releases a rich fragrance that is refreshing. The flowering period is generally in early spring. There are also varieties of Daphne odora with golden leaves, Daphne odora with white flowers, and Daphne odora with white petals and red petals. Among them, Daphne odora with golden petals is the most precious, so there is a poem saying: "The crabapple flower in Xifu is the best, and the Daphne odora with golden petals is the best."
　　Daphne odora is produced in central and southern China and southern China, among which the Daphne odora produced in Lushan, Jiangxi is the most famous. It likes a warm environment, fears the scorching sun, likes shade, and fears cold. In summer, it should be shaded, protected from rain and strong winds; in winter, it should be placed in a sunny and windproof place indoors, and the room temperature should be maintained above 8℃. During the growing season, light, decomposed cake fertilizer water can be applied twice a month. Daphne odora has fleshy roots and a sweet taste. It is easily harmed by ants and earthworms, so it should be prevented and controlled. Potted soil should avoid alkaline soil and require good drainage. It can be mixed with 30% culture soil and 70% river sand. This species is drought-resistant and avoids waterlogging. It should be watered moderately during the growing period. Too dry or too wet will affect its growth.
　　Propagation can be done by cuttings in spring, summer and autumn. In spring, cuttings are done from late February to late March, and one-year-old branches are selected; in summer, cuttings are done from mid-June to mid-July; in autumn, cuttings are done from late August to late September, and branches of the current year are selected. Cuttings are 4 to 6 cm long and are inserted into river sand pots, about 2/3 deep. After insertion, shade is provided and keep moist, but not too wet. Roots can be taken in 45 to 60 days. It can also be propagated by high-altitude layering from May to July. The method is to cut the branches into rings with a knife and peel them until the wood layer, about 1.6 cm wide. A small bamboo tube or plastic bag is placed on the cut, filled with culture soil, tied tightly, watered frequently, kept moist, and roots are taken in about two months. Then, it is cut from the mother plant, planted in a pot, and placed in the shade for maintenance.
　　Daphne odora has a strong fragrance and is evergreen all year round. It is deeply loved by people. Its flowers can be used to extract aromatic oil; its leaves can treat skin ulcers and ruptures; its roots are soft and fragrant, sweet and salty in nature, non-toxic, and can be used as medicine to treat bone pain and throat diseases. The stem bark fiber is used for papermaking and artificial cotton, and it can be said that the whole body is
  a treasure. Daphne odora is famous for its good appearance, color, fragrance and charm. It has extremely high ornamental and medicinal value. Its roots, stems, leaves and flowers can be used as medicine. Its flowering period is at the beginning of the Spring Festival. When people celebrate the Spring Festival, its flowers are full of branches, clusters, clusters, and flowers are full of flowers. The fragrance is refreshing, making the festival more joyful, which is in line with people's good wishes of "auspiciousness" and "flowers blooming and wealth".
1 Climate adaptability analysis
1.1 Temperature analysis
　　Daphne odora begins to sprout and grow when the average daily temperature rises to 10 ℃ in spring. Its most suitable growth temperature is 15-25 ℃. Within this range, the plant grows rapidly, and the seedling can grow one leaf in 7 to 10 days. The lowest temperature that Daphne odora can withstand is -3 ℃. When the average daily temperature is <5 ℃ or >35 ℃, the growth of Daphne odora stops or slows down.
　　The average temperature in January, the coldest month in Dayu, is 7.7 ℃, and the extreme minimum is -7.2 ℃. Only in a few years is the daily minimum temperature lower than -7 ℃; the average maximum temperature in July, the hottest month, is 27.7 ℃, and the extreme maximum temperature is 38.9 ℃; the first day when the daily average temperature stably passes 10 ℃ is March 14, and the last day is November 26, with 257 days between the beginning and the end; the temperature from late April to early June and from mid-September to mid-October is generally 20 to 25 ℃, which is most suitable for the growth and development of Daphne odora. Therefore, the temperature conditions in Dayu are very suitable for growing Daphne odora.
1.2 Moisture Analysis:
　　Daphne odora prefers to grow in a moist, non-waterlogged soil environment, and the appropriate soil humidity is about 75%. Soil humidity <20% can easily cause root death; long-term dampness or waterlogging of the pot soil, poor soil ventilation conditions, and soil humidity >90% can cause root rot and disease.
　　There are many rainy days in Dayu during the spring and summer, and the air humidity is high. Attention should be paid to drainage and long-term rain prevention; in summer, the temperature is high, the evaporation is large, and the pot soil is easy to dry, so watering should be done in the morning and evening; watering in the morning or afternoon in spring and autumn, and watering at noon in winter. Maintaining appropriate soil humidity for watering is the key to the normal growth and development of Daphne odora.
1.3 Light Analysis:
　　Daphne odora is a shade-loving plant. The leaves are very easy to burn when the sunlight is too strong, especially when the temperature is >35 ℃ and there is strong direct sunlight. The temperature in Dayu County is high in summer and the light is strong, so a ventilated place should be selected to build a shade shed, and the potted Daphne odora should be placed in the shed (the pot is about 50 cm from the ground).
2 Cultivation measures
　　The effective cultivation measures for cultivating Daphne odora with high survival rate, green, large, thick petals and many buds mainly include the following aspects:
2.1 Correctly master the cutting seedling raising technology
　　Because the pistils and stamens of Daphne odora are easy to degenerate, it is difficult to propagate by seeds, and asexual reproduction is generally carried out. That is, the regeneration ability of its vegetative organs is used to form new individuals. At present, the commonly used method is to propagate by cuttings of tender branches (semi-lignified branches of the current year).
　　(1) Cutting time: Cuttings can be carried out in Dayu County from March to November, and the best time is from May to June.
　　(2) Seedbed setting: The cutting medium should be loose, heat-insulating, moisture-retaining, and breathable soil.
　　(3) Cutting selection: 1) Mother trees that are 1 to 3 years old are the best; 2) Cuttings should be selected from branches that are grown in the current year and are semi-lignified; 3) Cuttings that are thick, have full axillary buds, and are free of pests and diseases should be selected; 4) The branches of Daphne odora should be cut into about 6 cm, and 4 to 8 leaves should be left. The cut branches should be processed immediately and should not be left for too long to avoid water loss and affect the survival rate.
　　(4) Cutting treatment: Dip the vitamin B12 solution directly on the base of the trimmed cuttings. After the solution is dry, immediately insert it into the substrate.
　　(5) Cuttings: Before cutting, the substrate on the bed should be flattened and slightly pressed, and then 1‰ potassium permanganate solution should be used to disinfect it. Under normal circumstances, the best cutting density is 6 cm×6 cm.
2.2 Timely potting or repotting
　　(1) Potting: When the roots of the seedlings in the nursery bed grow to 3 to 5 cm, they should be transplanted into pots.
　　(2) Repotting: As the plant grows, the root system is easily blocked. The original pot has little soil and limited nutrient supply, which cannot meet the plant's needs for regeneration. It should be replaced with a larger pot and the amount of soil should be increased. Repotting can be done throughout the year, but the best time is from November to February of the following year.
2.3 Reasonable fertilization:
　　Fertilization of potted Osmanthus fragrans should be "thin fertilizer, frequent application, small amount and frequent feeding", and mainly liquid fertilizer. Among them:
　　(1) Seedling stage: Fertilizer should be thin fertilizer, frequent application, small amount and frequent feeding.
　　(2) Mid-seedling stage: Apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizers in early spring, once every 10 to 15 days; from late May to the end of June, apply mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; from July to August, during the hot season, apply as little fertilizer as possible or no fertilizer; from late August to the end of October, apply nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizers; when the flower buds swell in December, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers 1 to 2 times to make the flowers larger, with better color, stronger fragrance and longer flowering period; stop fertilizing during the flowering period. Generally speaking, the fertilizer concentration in the mid-seedling stage should be 10% to 15%.
　　(3) Large seedling stage: Because the seedlings are planted in pots, there is a lot of soil and a large supply of nutrients, so it is sufficient to apply fertilizer several times in early spring, early summer and late autumn.
2.4 Reasonable shaping
　　The shaping of Osmanthus fragrans is to make it sprout early and grow more branches through measures such as pinching, bud removal, thinning, tying, and pulling branches from small seedlings to large seedlings, so as to form a tree shape with a large crown, reasonable branch arrangement, luxuriant branches and leaves, and many large flowers with high ornamental value.
　　(1) Small seedling shaping: mainly pinching and bud removal, cultivating 2 to 3 branches and 6 to 9 secondary branches.
　　(2) Medium seedling shaping: through pinching and bud removal, cultivate more sturdy branches and expand the crown, so that it can bloom more flowers during the Spring Festival. 2.5
Timely control and promote flowering
　　Flower control and promotion should be based on the growth characteristics of Osmanthus fragrans, and artificial measures should be taken to make Osmanthus fragrans bloom at the scheduled time. Practice has proved that by adjusting the climatic conditions such as light, water, and temperature, changing its ecological environment, and affecting the changes in its physiological functions, the purpose of controlling and promoting flowering can be effectively achieved.
2.5.1 Light treatment
　　Shading treatment was carried out for 1 month in mid-July, with a shading rate of 75%, which can control the flowering period to appear around the Spring Festival. If you want to bloom early on New Year's Day, you can extend the light time and keep 10 hours of light every day for 3 months. If you want to bloom early during the National Day, keep the light for 15 hours every day for 2 months. If the shading time is postponed to September, shading is carried out for 5 consecutive months, and the shading rate is 85%, the flowering period can be postponed to April or May of the following year.
2.5.2 Temperature treatment
　　Increasing the temperature can make Daphne odora bloom earlier, and lowering the temperature can delay the flowering of Daphne odora. When the temperature is 20 ℃, flower buds can be formed in 60 days. After the flower buds are formed, as the temperature rises, the number of days required from budding to flowering tends to shorten. If the temperature is between 21 and 25 ℃, it takes about 90 days from budding to flowering; if the temperature is between 26 and 30 ℃, it only takes about 70 days from budding to flowering. In a low temperature environment below 10 ℃, the buds of Daphne odora can be delayed for 100 days to open. If it is controlled below 4 ℃, the flowering period will be delayed by about 120 days.
2.5.3 Fertilizer and water treatment
　　For Daphne odora with spring and summer shoots and large flowers, flower control should generally start from late May, and gradually reduce the light time and control fertilization. That is, there is a transition from short-term shading to long-term shading, and keep the soil moist. During the flower control period, it is strictly forbidden to let the pot soil be too dry, otherwise the perianth will be short, the flower color will be dry and lifeless, the bracts will be rolled up and difficult to unfold, and it will be easy to wilt and fall early. Even if the light and water are increased later, the assimilation of the plant will be difficult to recover. Under normal circumstances, for the controlled spring and summer shoots and large flower seedlings, the pot soil should be appropriately watered from January, the light should be increased, and the plant should be able to receive dew at night. After a period of assimilation, the leaves of the plant will become shiny and straight, and the perianth will turn red. The flower clusters will bloom during the Spring Festival, making the Daphne odora beautiful and fragrant.
　　Flower promotion is mainly a measure taken for a few Daphne odora with autumn flowers, which are delayed due to factors such as late pruning, improper fertilizer and water application, or insufficient light. Its main practices are: keep the pot soil moist, increase phosphorus fertilizer, spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate and growth hormones, such as plant protection agent, Lubokang, Penshibao, Aiduoshou, etc.
2.6 Disease and Pest Control
　　The diseases that harm Daphne odora mainly include stem rot, mosaic disease, anthracnose, etc., and the pests include aphids, scale insects, earthworms, etc. The prevention and control of diseases and pests of Daphne odora should be comprehensive from the following aspects:
　　(1) Strengthen flower garden management, strictly control the spread of pathogens in the flower garden, maintain good flower garden hygiene, and eliminate the source of pathogens.
　　(2) Scientific application of pesticides: 1) Application of pesticides in the seedbed. 1) Before cutting, soak with 1‰ potassium permanganate solution; 2) When transplanting, disinfect the seedlings and soil of Daphne odora and soak the pot soil with 500 times solution; 3) Spray the medicine in time at each sprouting period.
2. Why do the leaves of Daphne odora wilt?
As the saying goes: "It is easy to propagate Daphne odora but difficult to grow." What is the difficulty? Once the leaves of Daphne odora wilt and turn yellow, it is almost impossible to save it, which is one of the reasons why Daphne odora wilt cannot develop. Generally speaking, the wilting of the leaves of Daphne odora wilt seems to be root rot. Sometimes it is not root rot, but only the cortex of the rhizome in contact with the surface of the pot soil rots in a ring shape, cutting off the water path of the plant. In this case, symptomatic treatment can still be rescued.
  For this phenomenon of Daphne odora wilt, it is necessary to correct the root cause: first of all, the pot soil should have good air permeability and good drainage, and the leaf humus should be fully decomposed. Daphne odora wilt requires high air humidity and low pot soil humidity. The pot soil should be watered, and it should be slightly damp when it is dry. It is better to keep it slightly damp, not too wet or waterlogged. In addition, Daphne odora is afraid of heat but not cold, and can withstand low temperatures of minus six degrees Celsius. Daphne odora is prone to disease below minus twenty degrees Celsius and above thirty degrees Celsius. Daphne odora should be watered cleanly, and shade should be provided in summer to prevent rain. Water it every day when it is dry, and never accumulate water.
  What should I do if Daphne odora has the above problems? Turn the affected plant out of the pot, rinse the root system, soak it in 1/1000 potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes, soak the pot soil in the solution for disinfection, and then repot it. If there is a ring-shaped cortex rot, when repotting, bury the injured part with sterilized pot soil (it can also be sterilized at high temperature on fire), put on a plastic film bag to keep it moist and isolate it in the shade, do not water it every day, only spray the leaves and the surface of the pot soil with potassium permanganate water, after more than two weeks, remove the film bag, still mainly spray, and gradually turn to normal management. For large plants, antibiotics such as "Zengxiao Lianshuan Tablets" can also be used. After crushing, dissolve in the water for watering and then spray the whole plant and pot soil. This recipe is effective, so you might as well give it a try.
3. Preventing the golden-edged Daphne from falling leaves
There are many reasons for the golden-edged Daphne to fall leaves, but it is more common in summer. The most common reasons are four.
  One is that the leaves fall due to the summer rain. The golden-edged Daphne is most afraid of the summer rain. If it is accidentally drenched by the summer rain, the leaves will fall at the lightest and the death at the worst. Therefore, from mid-June to early September, it should be placed in a shaded and ventilated place to prevent rain from being washed and the invasion of heat waves during heavy rain.
  The second is that improper fertilization causes leaf fall. In midsummer, the golden-edged Daphne enters a semi-dormant state, and the various physiological functions of the plant are very weak. If you continue to fertilize, or apply raw fertilizer and concentrated fertilizer, it will inevitably cause fertilizer damage and damage the roots, thus causing leaf fall. Therefore, from late June to late August, stop applying any fertilizer to the pot. For plants that grow weakly due to lack of fertilizer in the potting soil, you can spray the leaves with a mixed aqueous solution of 0.05% urea and 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate after 8 pm, once every 5-7 days.
Third, stem rot causes leaf fall. Stem rot is the enemy of Daphne odora, and it occurs at its peak in summer. Excessive watering and excessive moisture in the potting soil often induce this disease. In addition to taking effective measures to ensure good drainage and ventilation of the potting soil, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled at ordinary times. Generally, it is necessary to wait until the soil surface turns white and the leaves become soft and slightly wilted before watering. The amount of water should be just enough to penetrate to the bottom of the pot. Usually, loosen the soil more to maintain good ventilation of the roots and stems. Spraying sterilizing pesticides such as carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl once every 10 days or so can effectively prevent the occurrence of stem rot. Fourth, excessive light causes leaf fall. Daphne odora prefers a semi-shaded environment. When the light is too strong in summer, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off. Therefore, it should be placed in a shaded scattered light in summer, and it can be exposed to some weak light in the morning and evening, and it should not be exposed to strong light.
4. Prevention and control of stem rot of Daphne odora
Daphne odora is a precious flower and tree loved by the masses, but it is delicate and difficult to raise. According to observation, it was found that the main cause was stem rot.
  1. Symptoms and characteristics of stem rot
  1. Symptoms: The disease is not easy to be found in the early stage. The first part of the disease is the rhizome. The phloem of the diseased part turns black and rots, and gradually develops to the root. However, the xylem is normal, the leaves are green and normal, and they do not fall until death, and no symptoms are found on the surface.

  2. Characteristics of the disease: The disease occurs from June to October, with the peak from July to September. This is the period of high temperature and strong light. According to observation, the incidence rate of the disease is 37.5% in places with sunlight all day, while the incidence rate of the disease is only 5% in places where the sunlight is blocked from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm.
  The diseased plants are mainly 1-5 years old, growing rapidly in spring, with many leaves, and are highly contagious.

  In terms of culture soil, the incidence rate of potting soil that is easy to dry is significantly higher than that of soil with good water retention. The incidence rate of soil with 80% leaf humus and 20% river sand is significantly lower than that of soil with half leaf humus and half river sand. The incidence rate of soil with 100% fire dung soil is lower than that with high sand content.
  2. Prevention and control
  According to the characteristics of the disease of Daphne odora and three years of practice, the prevention and control of stem rot can be started from five aspects:

  1. Selection of culture soil: Choose soil rich in humus with good drainage and water retention. This soil can be directly dug from the surface leaf humus in the mountain forest area and then mixed with a small amount of river sand and decomposed cake fertilizer, or vegetable garden soil can be added with some leaf humus, a small amount of river sand, and decomposed cake fertilizer.
  2. Selection of the environment for placing potted flowers: Daphne odora is a plant that likes a cool and ventilated environment. Potted flowers should be placed in a cool place from 9 am to 4 pm from June to October. Or you can solve the problem by building a shade shed.
  3. Timely pruning: pinch off the top and leaves of plants that grow vigorously and have many branches and leaves in spring, and remove too many new branches to control the evaporation of water too quickly.
  4. Water management: In summer and autumn, the soil must be kept moist, and it is better to be wet than dry to ensure the water supply of the plants.
  5. Treatment of diseased plants: Once the plant is sick, the diseased plant and the potting soil should be disposed of immediately, and the flower pot should be rinsed and disinfected. Other non-diseased plants should be washed and disinfected with 500 times carbendazim to prevent the spread of the disease. In short, comprehensive prevention and control should be carried out for stem rot, with prevention as the main approach. For plants aged 1 to 5 years, on the basis of selecting the culture soil, do a good job of shading in summer and autumn, which can generally prevent and control the occurrence of stem rot.



Dracaena

Desert Rose


Name: Desert Rose Scientific name: Adenium obesum
Alias: Tianbao Flower Family: Apocynaceae Desert Rose Genus
Category: Multi-plant
morphological characteristics
Plant height is about 30-80cm, branches are thick and fleshy. Leaves are clustered, obovate, dark green on the front and light green on the back. The flowers are terminal cymes, funnel-shaped, 5 petals, pink, dark red, pink or white, and the flowering period is from spring to autumn. There are no leaves when the flowers are in full bloom.
Origin Distribution
Native to Kenya, Tanzania, Zimbabwe and other countries
Growth habits
Like high temperature, dry and sunny environment. Resistant to heat, not cold, drought, avoid water temperature. Calcium-rich, well-drained sandy loam is preferred. The winter temperature is not lower than 10℃.
Reproduction
Commonly used cuttings, grafting and layering propagation. Cuttings are best in summer. Select 1-2 year old branches, preferably the top branches, cut into 10 cm long, wait for the cut to dry and insert into the sand bed, and root about 3-4 weeks after insertion. Grafting, use oleander as the rootstock, adopt the cleft grafting method in summer, and the plant will grow strong and easy to bloom after survival. Layering, often adopt the high-altitude layering method in summer, cut off 2/3 of the strong branches, fill with moss first and then wrap with plastic film, take root in about 25 days, cut and potted after 45 days.
Ornamental application
Desert rose plants are short, the tree shape is simple and vigorous, and the rhizome is as large as a wine bottle. It blooms twice in April-May and September-October every year, bright red and beautiful, shaped like a trumpet, very unique, and deeply loved by people. Planting in the south to arrange small courtyards is simple, dignified, natural and generous. Potted ornamental, unique decoration for indoor and balcony.
Maintenance and pests and diseases
Desert rose cultivation: Potted plants need plenty of sunlight and good drainage. A mixture of fertile, loose sand and leaf mold is best. Dry rather than wet during the growing season. Water once a day in high temperatures in summer and once every 2-3 days at other times. Fertilize 2-3 times throughout the year. Leaves fall normally during the winter drought and dormancy period.
Desert rose pests and diseases: Sometimes there is leaf spot damage, which can be sprayed with 500 times of 50% thiophanate wettable powder. Pests include scale insects and cabbage borers, which can be sprayed with 1000 times of 50% cypermethrin emulsifiable concentrate. Desert rose is a newly emerging indoor cultivated plant in recent years. Desert rose, also known as Tianbao flower and small oleander, is native to Kenya and Tanzania in Africa. It is a perennial succulent plant with a plant height of up to 2 meters. The roots are enlarged into fleshy roots. The stems are thick, with many branches and emerald green leaves. It can bloom twice in spring and autumn in the south. If properly maintained, flowers can be seen in spring, summer and autumn. When in full bloom, most of the leaves fall off, and the branches are full of flowers. Its posture is graceful, the tree shape is simple and vigorous, elegant and unique. The roots, stems, leaves and flowers all have high ornamental value, and are currently popular high-end indoor cultivation products.
  Desert rose likes a dry and sunny environment. It is drought-resistant but not water-resistant, and heat-resistant but not cold-resistant. The suitable temperature for growth is 20-30℃. When cultivated at home, it should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight or scattered light, and fertile, loose and well-drained sandy loam rich in calcium should be used. May to December is its flowering period, and the flowers are red, rose red, pink, white and other colors. It is easier to be strong in greenhouse cultivation in the south.
  It is better to be dry than wet during the growing period. During the high temperature period in summer, water can be applied after the topsoil is dry according to the soil conditions. Generally, water once every 3 days, and water should not accumulate in the pot, otherwise the roots will rot easily. Apply nitrogen fertilizer 2 to 3 times in the spring growing season each year, and apply compound fertilizer containing calcium and phosphorus twice before flowering. In the winter dry season, the plant enters a dormant period. If the temperature is below 10℃, the leaves will fall. At this time, watering should be controlled to keep the soil dry.
  Desert roses are mainly propagated by sowing and cuttings. Sowing is best done in spring, and spot sowing is used to facilitate management after germination. Before sowing, the substrate must be disinfected. After germination, pay attention to the substrate in the sowing tray not being too wet, otherwise the roots may rot and cause a large number of seedlings to die. Cuttings are best done in the growing season. Cut the branch segments into about 10 cm, immerse the lower end in water, and dilute the mucus at the incision to prevent cementation and affect rooting. It can be inserted into a sand bed or directly into a sterilized cultivation substrate, and roots can be formed in about 15 to 30 days. When propagating, it is recommended to use the sowing method so that the rhizome of the plant can naturally expand to form a good plant shape. Cutting seedlings cannot do this, and it will greatly reduce the ornamental value.
  In addition, during cultivation, the branches of Desert Rose tend to grow too long, which affects the beauty of the plant shape. Grafting can be used to change its plant shape. All branches can be cut off at a certain height of the plant in a certain shape, and then the upper end of the cut branches can be taken and grafted by cleft grafting. The plant shape after grafting is beautiful, and the branches are compact after flowering, which is highly ornamental.
  The leaf spot disease of Desert Rose is more serious, and in severe cases, a large number of leaves can fall off. It can be controlled by 500 times of 25% carbendazim wettable powder and 1000 times of 50% thiophanate.
  The main pest of Desert Rose is scale insects. In severe cases, all leaves fall off, the growth point of the plant necrotizes, and even the plant dies. Pay attention to observation during home cultivation, and wipe it off with a cotton swab dipped in water once it is found. It can also be sprayed 1 to 2 times with 1000-2000 times of 40% omethoate EC or 1000 times of 50% fenitrothion EC during the egg-laying and hatching periods. When carrying out pest control, attention should be paid to the safety of drug use.
2. Desert Rose Cultivation Technology Process
Desert rose is mainly distributed in tropical African desert arid areas. It likes a climate environment with high temperature, drought and plenty of sunshine. It likes sandy loam rich in calcium, loose, fertile, breathable and well-drained. It is not tolerant to shade, avoids waterlogging, avoids waterlogging, avoids concentrated fertilizer and raw fertilizer, and is afraid of cold. The suitable temperature for growth is 25-30℃.
  3 Cultivation Technology
  3.1 Preparation before seedling raising
  Seedling raising soil can be mixed with peat soil, leaf humus and river sand in a ratio of 4:4:2. After preparation, the seedling raising soil should be disinfected. One is to use the sunlight exposure method, which mainly uses the ultraviolet rays in the sunlight to denature the protein in the pathogen and lose its vitality, but this method of disinfection is not thorough. The second is chemical disinfection. 65% mancozeb powder can be used, and 60 grams of medicine per cubic meter of bed soil should be used. After mixing, it should be covered with a film for 2-3 days. After removing the film, it can be used after the smell of the medicine has dissipated. It has a certain control effect on diseases.
  3.2 Sowing
  Desert Rose seeds are generally sown in spring or autumn. Try to sow within three months after the seeds are harvested. You can also sow as soon as they are harvested. The later the sowing, the lower the germination rate. When sowing, you can use a seedling tray for direct sowing, or you can use the spot sowing method. Pay attention to soil moisture after sowing, and the seedlings will emerge in about a week.
  3.3 Preparation of nutrient soil and potting
  soil can be prepared with peat soil, leaf humus, rice husk ash, river sand at 3:3:2:2 plus a small amount of decomposed bone meal. The nutrient soil must be disinfected before cultivation. When the seedlings have three to four true leaves, they can be transplanted into a pot of 8-10 cm. When the nutrient area is insufficient, they can be moved into a pot of more than 15 cm for cultivation and maintenance.
  3.4 Water management
  The soil should be kept moist before germination to prevent the soil from being too dry and the buds from drying out. From the time the seedlings emerge to the time when two to three true leaves appear, the root system is weak at this time. Pay attention to keeping the soil moist to prevent the soil from being too dry and causing root damage. Water should be controlled from potting to flowering, because Desert Rose prefers a drier environment, is drought-resistant but not water-resistant, so watering should not be too much. If it is kept wet for a long time, the branches are prone to leggy growth and may cause root rot. Watering should be considered comprehensively according to the cultivation substrate, weather, season and other conditions. Generally, water once every 3 days in spring and autumn, once every 1-2 days in summer, and once a week in winter. Appropriate drought is conducive to the growth of Desert Rose.
  3.5 Fertilizer management
  Fertilization is essential during the growing season. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied in combination. Nitrogen fertilizer is mainly used from the seedling stage to before flowering, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are used as auxiliary to promote nutritional growth. However, during the nutritional growth period of mature plants, less nitrogen fertilizer is applied and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied, because too much nitrogen fertilizer will cause leggy growth of branches and leaves and inhibit reproductive growth. When entering the reproductive growth period, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and use phosphorus and potassium fertilizers as the main fertilizers. Generally, fertilization is stopped during the flowering period, but Desert Rose has a longer flowering period and consumes more nutrients. Some quick-acting fertilizers can be appropriately added, but the concentration should not be too high. Fertilize once every 15-20 days during the vigorous growth period, and stop fertilizing during winter dormancy. The appropriate concentration of fertilizer in water is 0.1-0.2%, and 10-15 grams per pot should be applied as topdressing, which can be reduced according to the growth and size of the plant.
  3.6 Light control
  Because Desert Rose is drought-resistant and likes light, it generally does not need to be shaded. It can be placed in a place with sufficient light for maintenance, but the light is strong in the south in summer. If you want to keep the leaves green, you can shade them appropriately. If it is too shaded, the plant is prone to leggy growth, and the plant is thin and weak, and the leaves are prone to yellowing, which affects flowering. If the seedlings do not have enough light, the branches will be poor. Generally, the seedlings should be properly supplemented with light when the daylight becomes shorter in autumn, and the light of 40 watts/square meter should be maintained for no less than 18 hours a day to promote the development of side branches.
  3.7 Temperature management
  The suitable temperature for the growth of Desert Rose is 20-30℃, and the minimum temperature is not lower than 5℃. When the temperature is below 10℃, the leaves begin to fall and enter a semi-dormant state. If the temperature is low for a long time, it will enter a dormant period. At this time, watering should be controlled to keep the soil dry.
  3.8 Plant shape control
  The plant shape of Desert Rose is not easy to control. If the environmental conditions such as temperature, water and light change, it is very easy to grow too long and the branches are scattered, affecting the ornamental effect. The following methods can be used:
  3.8.1 Pruning
  If the seedlings have no branches, you can pinch the top when the plant height is 15-20 cm to promote branching. Pruning of mature plants is generally chosen after the flowering period. It can be done according to personal preferences and the direction of the branches. The more branches, the more flowers. If the cut is not large after pruning, it can be left to heal naturally. If the cut is large, it should be treated to prevent rot caused by rain and bacteria invasion. It can be disinfected with 2% copper sulfate solution and finally coated with grafting wax for protection.
  3.8.2 Dwarfing grafting
  If the plant has many branches, but the branches are too long, the dwarfing grafting method can be used. You can cut off all the branches at a certain height of the plant according to your favorite shape, and then cut off 10cm upper branches from the cut branches, and graft them using the cleft grafting method or the cut grafting method. Different methods can be used according to the thickness of the branches. The grafted plants have beautiful plant shapes, compact branches after flowering, and strong ornamental value.
  3.9 Other propagation methods
  3.9.1 Grafting propagation
  When grafting, the rootstock and scion must be free of diseases and insect pests, and the branches must grow strong. The grafted scion can be the same variety as the rootstock or a different variety. The same variety is generally used for dwarfing grafting, and different varieties are mostly used to graft multiple varieties on one plant to improve the ornamental effect.
  Grafting is mostly carried out in spring and autumn. Grafting can also be carried out in other seasons if the temperature is suitable, but the temperature should be higher than 20℃ during grafting. In addition, the rainy season and dormancy period should be avoided to prevent grafting failure due to excessive humidity and low temperature.
  The grafted scion is generally slightly thinner than the rootstock branch. The grafting knife should be sharp and disinfected with 75% alcohol after each scion cutting. The scion can be selected with a terminal bud or an intermediate branch, which is generally 7-10 cm long. The branches should be treated during grafting, because the cut ends of the branches will ooze out mucus, which will affect the grafting effect. Soak the lower end of the cut branches in clean water for a few minutes, and the amount of mucus will decrease. At this time, grafting can be performed. After grafting, the interface is tied with a plastic band. The band can be untied in 45-70 days, but not too late to prevent constriction marks and affect plant growth.
  After grafting, put on a transparent plastic bag and place it in a shaded place for maintenance. The wound will heal in about 7-10 days. After new buds emerge, untie the plastic band, but do not water outside the interface when watering to avoid infection.
  3.9.2 Cutting propagation
  Cuttings are best done during the growing season. Cut the branches into about 10 cm, immerse the lower end in water, dilute the mucus at the cut to prevent cementation and affect rooting, and then insert it into the sterilized cultivation medium after applying plant ash. It will take about 15-30 days for roots to grow. It is recommended to use the sowing method for propagation, so that the rhizomes of the plants can naturally expand and form a good plant shape, while cutting seedlings cannot, which will greatly reduce the ornamental value.
  3.9.3 Layering propagation
  Layering propagation uses high pressure method, which makes the root system grow strong and has a high survival rate. It can be carried out during the growing season. First, use a sharp knife to cut or ring the layering part, then treat it with rooting powder, then wrap it with sphagnum moss and wrap it with a film. If the sphagnum moss lacks water during the high pressure period, you can use a syringe to replenish water. After half a year, you can cut it off from the mother plant and pot it.
  3.10 Seed collection
  Desert rose is self-infertile and not easy to bear fruit, so it needs artificial assisted pollination. The fruit is angular and grows in pairs. It will naturally crack when ripe. The seeds can be scattered with the help of the hairs. Therefore, the seeds can be bagged before they mature and harvested in time. After harvesting, place them in a shaded place to dry and store them in a low-temperature and dry place. It is best to sow them within half a year to prevent the vitality of the seeds from decreasing.
  4 Disease and Pest Control
  4.1 Disease Control
  Desert rose is mainly harmed by leaf spot and root rot. When leaf spot occurs seriously, a large number of leaves can fall off. It can be controlled with 500 times diluted 25% carbendazim wettable powder and 1000 times diluted 50% thiophanate. Root rot often causes the root of the plant to rot and die. It can be controlled by irrigation with 500 times diluted 50% thiophanate wettable powder or 1000 times diluted agricultural streptomycin.
  4.2 Pest Control
  The main pest of Desert Rose is scale insects. When it is serious, it will cause all leaves to fall off, the growth point of the plant to necrotize, and even the plant to die. Once found, wipe it with a cotton swab dipped in water. You can also spray 1-2 times with 40% omethoate EC at 1000-2000 times or 50% fenitrothion EC at 1000 times during the egg-laying and hatching periods. Dracaena

angustifolia

Scientific name: Dracaena angustifolia
　　Alias: Mule sugarcane tree, narrow-leaved dragon blood tree, long-flowered
　　dragon blood tree Family: Liliaceae, Dracaena Origin
　　: Dracaena is native to the southern and tropical regions of Asia, and other species are also distributed in tropical Africa.
　　Morphological characteristics: small evergreen shrubs, up to 4m high, with gray skin. The leaves are sessile, densely growing on the top of the stem, thick and papery, wide strips or oblanceolate, 10~35cm long, 1~5?5cm wide, enlarged at the base, narrow near the base, with obvious midrib on the back and ribbed, and large terminal panicles up to 60cm long, with 1~3 flowers in clusters. The flowers are white and fragrant. The berries are spherical and yellow. Many species and varieties of the same genus are used for gardening.
　　Habits: Likes high temperature and humidity, likes light, sufficient light, and colorful leaves. Not cold-resistant, the winter temperature is about 15C, and the lowest temperature is 5~10C. If the temperature is too low, due to insufficient water absorption by the roots, yellow-brown spots will appear on the tips and edges of the leaves. It likes loose, well-drained, and humus-rich soil.
　　Reproduction method: Dracaena can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. Sowing is used for hybrid breeding. Horticultural varieties of Dracaena are usually not propagated by sowing. Plants propagated by sowing have similar or different characteristics to wild species, and lose the excellent characteristics of horticultural varieties. Cutting propagation is the main method to maintain the quality of horticultural varieties. Cuttings can be perennial stems or tender branches. The cuttings are inserted into a cutting bed with coarse sand or frog stones as the medium. The suitable temperature of the cutting bed is 21~24. C. The leaves with top branches take root quickly, about 2~4 weeks, and the stems take root slowly, sometimes it takes 2 to 3 months to grow new buds and roots. Move into the pot after rooting.
　　Cultivation and maintenance: 1 part of humus soil, peat soil, and river sand can be mixed as a substrate and cultivated under the condition of shading 70%~80%. Apply compound fertilizer 1~2 times a month during the growing season to keep the soil moist. In summer, spray the leaves more often to increase the air humidity. The leaves will be thicker, the leaf color will be brighter, and it will not be easy to dry the tip. In winter, it is necessary to keep warm and keep it above 8°C. Reduce watering of the pot soil, but frequently wetting the floor to increase humidity is effective in maintaining leaf color and preventing dry tips. The leaves of this genus are beautiful and are good materials for various indoor decorations. If the humidity can be properly reduced before entering the room to adapt to a drier environment, and water can be sprayed on the leaves frequently after entering the room, it can be viewed indoors for a long time and the leaf tips are not easy to dry. Some plants that are damaged by indoor decoration, if the damage is not serious, can be restored by moving back to the production site and maintaining for a period of time. Some plants that are seriously damaged are difficult to recover and can be used for seedling propagation; such as some people throw away the Brazilian wood after the leaves are damaged after a period of time, which is a pity. In fact, as long as the residual branches are cut off about 2cm below the sprouting branches at the upper end of the stem, and regular management is continued, new branches and leaves can sprout after a period of time.
　　Garden use: The shape of the dragon blood tree is beautiful and regular, and the leaf shape and color are colorful. It is an excellent foliage plant for modern interior decoration. Medium and small potted flowers can be used to embellish the study, living room and bedroom, and large and medium-sized plants can be used to beautify and arrange the hall. The dragon blood tree has a strong adaptability to light. It can be viewed continuously for 2 to 4 weeks in a dark room and can be placed for a long time in a bright room.
The dragon blood tree has a very beautiful plant shape and colorful leaves. Some varieties have dense yellow spots on the leaves, which are fondly called star-pointed trees. Some varieties have yellow longitudinal stripes on the leaves, which can secrete a light fragrance, and people call it fragrant dragon blood tree. Some varieties have white, milky white, and beige stripes on the leaves, which people call it tricolor dragon blood tree. The stems of the dragon blood tree can secrete bright red resin, which is called "dragon blood". The dragon blood tree probably got its name from this.
　　The leaves of the dragon blood tree are thick and shaped like a sword. Its colorful colors are shining golden and dazzling under the sun or light. It is currently a very popular indoor foliage plant in all parts of the country.
　　1. Morphology and habits The dragon blood tree, also known as the cordyline, is a perennial evergreen shrub or tree of the genus Dracaena in the Liliaceae family. The plant is short and strong, with a straight stem, and the height of the young tree is less than 100 cm. The leaves are sword-shaped and densely grown at the ends of branches. When young, they are bright green in color. When they are formed, they become bright red or purple, milky white, bronze, pink, colorful and beautiful. The ovary of this genus is three-chambered, each with an ovule, and each fruit only breeds three seeds. The dragon blood tree is native to the Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean and likes a warm, humid and sunny environment. It is not difficult to cultivate the dragon blood tree. As long as there is sufficient light and the air is moist and fresh, it can grow vigorously. There are many varieties of dragon blood trees. Although this species belongs to monocotyledonous plants, due to the proliferation and division of thin-walled cells in the plant, it becomes thicker and lignified every year, forming a tall tree with a lifespan of up to a thousand years. In recent years, dragon blood trees have been introduced and are now cultivated in small quantities all over the country. If they are dwarfed potted and placed in halls, living rooms, or bedrooms, they are elegant, interesting and exotic.
　　2. Reproduction method After the introduction of dragon blood trees, except for a few tropical areas where seeds are cultivated, other areas mainly use high pressure and cuttings for asexual reproduction.
　　(1) Layering propagation: Most of the stems of Dracaena grow upright with few branches. After the plant grows for several years, the leaves at the base fall off and the plant loses its ornamental value. According to this situation, the grower can carry out high-pressure propagation in the hot and humid season from May to July. The method is: make a ring cut at the appropriate part of the plant stem, with a width of 1.8-2.2 cm and deep to the wood. Use a knife to peel off the cortex of the ring, wipe off the juice overflowing from the cut with a clean wet cloth, apply 5000-1000ppm naphthaleneacetic acid aqueous solution to the cortex at the upper end of the cut, and then tie a white plastic film at the lower end of the cut, straighten it into a funnel shape, and install the rooting stem material mixed with moss and mountain soil, wrap the cut edge, irrigate it once, tie the upper end of the river film tightly, and then place the plant outdoors for cultivation and strengthen fertilizer and water management. After the Dracaena is layered, check whether the substrate is dry at any time and add water at any time. Generally, after 30 to 40 days of cultivation, new roots will appear at the girdled part. In September to October, the plant can be separated from the mother plant and cultivated separately to become an independent plant.
　　(2) Cutting propagation Dracaena can also be propagated asexually by cutting, which takes place from May to June. This is the vigorous growth period of Dracaena, and the plant is rich in nutrients, making it very easy to survive after cutting. Before cutting, you can select a mother plant with high ornamental value and take its strong branches that have grown for more than two years. Each section is about 10-20 cm long, with or without leaves. The base of the cuttings is cut flat, and the leaves are retained after the upper part is cut horizontally. The upper and lower cuts can be soaked in clean water to clean the overflowing juice, placed in a cool and ventilated place to dry for a while, and then soaked in 500-1000ppm naphthaleneacetic acid 2-3 cm from the base of the cuttings. Generally, 5 seconds is enough, and the cuttings can be inserted immediately after soaking. For the cuttings of Dracaena, a small earthenware flower pot can be used as the seedbed, and the substrate can be vermiculite, perlite or plain sandy soil that has been sterilized at high temperature. Cuttings are carried out after potting. One plant is placed in each pot. After planting, water it thoroughly. Place the seedbed in a place where the flowers are lit and carefully maintain it. The subsequent management work mainly involves keeping the substrate moist. The wounds of Dracaena heal quickly, take root early, and germinate quickly. Generally, 15 to 20 days, the incision will produce callus tissue under the action of trauma hormones. 25 to 35 days, the cuttings will quickly produce the original body of the root under the action of endogenous hormones. New roots will sprout in 35 to 40 days. After two months, it can be repotted with culture soil and transplanted.
　　3. Cultivation and management Dracaena likes warmth and is afraid of severe cold. It likes light but is afraid of exposure to the sun. It is most suitable for growing in a warm but not hot environment. Spring, summer and autumn are the peak seasons for the growth of Dracaena. During this period, the grower must fully meet its needs for water, nutrients, temperature and make it grow healthily.　
　　(1) Fertilizer and water management Dracaena prefers a fertile and permeable substrate. It can be cultivated and managed using a soilless method. The cultivation container should be a beautiful and elegant Yixing purple clay pot, or a high-grade porcelain pot from Jingdezhen City, Jiangxi Province. The substrate can be mixed with vermiculite, perlite and peat soil. This substrate has good permeability, is clean, sterile and odorless. Dracaena can be cultivated in a high-grade container with this substrate for several years without repotting or changing the soil. The plant has a well-developed root system and grows healthily. Fertilizer and water management for soilless cultivation mainly involves topdressing with nutrient solution. If the number of plants is small, you do not need to prepare a special nutrient solution, but can use the "Hongmei" and "Jinyue" brand nutrient solutions sold on the market. According to the instructions, add appropriate amount of water, mix thoroughly and then water. You can also scrape the surface substrate and apply granular slow-release fertilizer every 30 to 40 days. Water every 3 to 5 days to keep the substrate moist. In summer, most areas are hot and dry. You can use a fine-hole spray bottle to spray water on the leaves at 10 am and after 6 pm every day to protect the beautiful and bright color of the leaves. Stop fertilizing and control watering during the winter dormancy period. Generally, it is placed indoors for wintering. It can be watered once every ten days or half a month to keep the pot soil slightly dry and moist to ensure safe wintering.
　　(2) Temperature and light Dracaena likes warm, humid and sunny environments, but it can also tolerate shade. However, if it is placed in an overly shady environment for a long time indoors, it will also cause the leaves to fade. Therefore, it is best to place the flower pot on the southeast windowsill so that it can receive sufficient sunlight. If the fat dragon blood tree is placed on the balcony, when the summer sun is too strong, the flower pot should be moved indoors, especially at noon, and proper shade should be provided. Generally, the light intensity is 40-50% to prevent the leaves from being burned by the scorching sun. The dragon blood tree likes warmth and cannot tolerate severe cold. Its most suitable growth temperature is 20-28 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is high in summer, exceeding 32 degrees Celsius, or the temperature is lower than 15 degrees Celsius in winter, the dragon blood tree will be dormant or semi-dormant. In the Yangtze River Basin and its southern regions, the dragon blood tree should be moved indoors gradually after late October to prevent early frost. Throughout the winter, it is best to control the room temperature between 10-20 degrees Celsius, not too low. At the same time, the potted flowers should be placed in the south-facing windowsill so that the sun shines directly on the plant body, and the position should be rotated regularly to ensure that it receives light evenly. If there is no sunlight for a long time, you can turn on the lights at night and place the dragon blood tree under a 40-watt light to provide artificial light supplementary illumination to ensure the beauty of the leaves. At night, the dragon blood tree should be placed inside the curtains, and thick curtains should be used to block the cold air, or the flower pot should be placed in a warm corner of the house to make it safely overwinter.
　　4. Pest control Because the ring culture is dry, it is easy to grow red spiders if the dragon blood tree is placed on the balcony or indoor windowsill for a long time. Red spiders are commonly known as fire dragons. They belong to the mite pests. They mostly gather on the back of the leaves of the plant, weave webs and suck sap. The dragon blood tree is harmed by it, the leaves fade, the chlorophyll is damaged, and dense small yellow dots and small yellow spots appear on the surface, and gradually shrink, yellow, and wither. In severe cases, they fall off and lose their ornamental value. Prevention and control methods. Red spiders often hide on the back of branches, leaves, or dense places. They are hidden by pulling nets and are easier to catch manually. If chemical agents are used for elimination, 20% trichloromethoate emulsion can be used, 800-1000 times of water can be added to make a solution for spraying. This drug has a good killing effect on adults, nymphs and eggs. You can also add 50% dichlorvos emulsion to 1000-1500 times water to make a solution for spraying. When spraying, pay attention to spraying the back of the leaves as well. In this way, the killing effect is better.

Potted Anthurium Cultivation Technology

In recent years, with the continued good sales of Anthurium potted flowers, more and more flower producers want to enter this field, and are eager to understand the conditions and issues required for planting Anthurium. The author has summarized a complete set of potted Anthurium cultivation and management experience in production practice. The main experience is introduced as follows:

　　1. Botanical characteristics

　　Anthurium belongs to the genus Anthurium of the Araceae family. It is a perennial evergreen herb that can bloom all year round. Generally, when the plant grows to a certain period, each leaf axil can produce buds and bloom. Anthurium often uses cross-pollination, and the pollination method is mainly with the help of insects such as bees, butterflies, and moths.

　　2. Growth habits

　　Anthurium is native to tropical rainforests such as Costa Rica and Colombia. It often grows on trees, sometimes on rocks or directly on the ground. It likes warm, humid, semi-shady environments and avoids direct sunlight.

　　3. Selection of planting materials

　　At present, the seedlings for potted Anthurium production are mainly imported from the Netherlands. For example, Anzu and Ryan are both famous Dutch Anthurium seedling production suppliers. There are four common types of Anthurium potting materials: tissue culture seedlings, cuttings, plug seedlings and potted seedlings. A basic principle: the smaller the plant, the more difficult it is to cultivate. Tissue culture seedlings and cuttings require special planting methods, which are difficult and generally not recommended. For growers, if the cultivation conditions are relatively good and they have some experience, they can choose potted seedlings with a plant height of 10-15 cm. This kind of seedling can be planted directly in the final pot, which is safer. When you have enough experience, you can choose plug seedlings with a plant height of 6-10 cm, which are cheaper to transport.

　　IV. Cultivation and Management

　　1. Temperature and Light

　　Anthurium is sensitive to temperature. The suitable growth temperature is 14-35℃, the optimum temperature is 19-25℃, and the temperature difference between day and night is 3-6℃, that is, the best temperature is 21-25℃ during the day and about 19℃ at night. At such a temperature, it is conducive to the absorption and accumulation of nutrients by Anthurium, which is extremely beneficial to growth and flowering. If the temperature is lower than about 13℃ for a long time, the plant will not die, but it will be difficult to resume growth for a long time; when the temperature is higher than 35℃ and the light is sufficient, the leaves are prone to burns. Because the damaged leaves will not reverse, it affects the overall quality of Anthurium and creates difficulties for the next maintenance.

　　Under intensive production conditions, temperature automatic control equipment is often used for heating. In winter, heating is provided by boilers or warm air heating equipment is installed, such as fuel heaters, double-layer plastic sheets, cold-proof cloths, cattail mats, straw, etc. Cooling often uses a water curtain-fan cooling system, which is also a common solution for cooling in the north, or water mist cooling and humidification equipment, or you can open the top window and side window of the greenhouse, and roll up the plastic sheet on the side of the plastic shed. For home maintenance, if you live in a bungalow, you can put it on the sunny side in winter, inside the curtains at night, or in a location close to the heat source. In summer, it can be placed on the shady windowsill of the room, and pay attention to ventilation. It can also be placed in the hall, or moved outdoors during the day and placed in a cool place.

　　Anthurium is a shade-tolerant plant and avoids direct sunlight, but don't think that Anthurium is a shade-tolerant flower that does not need light. According to observations, when the light increases by 1%, its flower production will also increase by 1%, but this is within the appropriate light intensity range for Anthurium. The more suitable light intensity range is 10,000-20,000 lux, mainly depending on different varieties and different growth conditions in different growth periods. In any case, ensure that the light does not exceed 25,000-30,000 lux for a long time.

　　Under intensive production conditions, double-layer shade nets are often used for shading. A 40% fixed shade net is used outside the greenhouse, and a 60% movable shade net is used inside the greenhouse. The shade net is adjusted freely every day according to the light intensity. The fixed shade net is relative, and a movable shade net can also be made if it is capable.

　　For home maintenance, it can be placed on the shady side of the room or in a place with scattered light in the hall in summer, or in a place where direct sunlight cannot reach outdoors, such as under the shade of trees, under flowers or in a cool place. In winter, it should be placed on the sunny side of the room.

　　2. Water and humidity

　　3. Cultivation substrate and fertilizer

　　V. Pest and disease control

　　1. Potted anthuriums sometimes have premature aging, deformity, adhesion, cracks, vitrification and blue spots, which are mostly physiological diseases caused by improper fertilization, pot soil and air humidity management or variety reasons. The prevention method is to improve cultivation management, reasonable fertilization and proper ventilation.

　　2. The main diseases and pests of potted anthuriums are bacterial wilt, leaf spot, root rot, columnar spores, columnar bisporus, nematodes, red spiders, aphids, lepidoptera pests, whiteflies, scale insects, snails, etc.

Jasmine


scientific name: Jasminum sambac
Alias: Smear family
: Oleaceae, Jasmine genus
native to the west and India. Evergreen shrub. The branches are slender and slightly vine-like. The leaves are opposite, shiny, and ovate. The cymes are terminal or axillary, with 3-9 flowers, white corolla, very fragrant. The flowering period is June-October. It likes warm and humid conditions and grows best in a well-ventilated, semi-shady environment. The most suitable soil is slightly acidic sandy loam containing a lot of humus. It is afraid of cold and drought, and cannot tolerate waterlogging and alkaline soil. When the temperature is below 3℃ in winter, the branches and leaves are easily damaged by frost, and if it lasts for a long time, it will die.
Propagation is mostly done by cuttings, but can also be done by layering or division. Cutting propagation is carried out from April to October. Select mature one-year-old branches, cut them into cuttings with more than two nodes, remove the lower leaves, insert them into a half-sand and half-mud bed, cover them with plastic film, maintain high air humidity, and take root after about 40-60 days. For layering propagation, choose longer branches, lightly incise the lower part of the nodes, bury them in a small pot filled with sand and mud, keep them moist frequently, and they will start to take root in 20-30 days. After 2 months, they can be separated from the mother plant and planted separately. Potted jasmine should be watered in the morning and evening every day in midsummer. If the air is dry, spray water; during the winter dormancy period, control the amount of watering. If the pot soil is too wet, it will cause root rot or leaf fall. Apply thin cake fertilizer once a week during the growth period. After repotting in spring, pinch and shape the tops frequently. After the peak flowering period, heavy pruning is required to facilitate the sprouting of new branches, so that the plants are neat and strong and bloom vigorously.
The main pests are leaf rollers and red spiders that harm the top tender leaves. Timely prevention and control is necessary. Jasmine has emerald green leaves, white flowers and strong fragrance. It is often used as a potted plant to embellish the interior, elegant and pleasant. It can also be processed into decorations such as wreaths. Suzhou, Nanjing, Hangzhou, Jinhua and other places have long been producing it as a smoked tea spice. Flowers, leaves and roots can all be used as medicine.
Key points of jasmine cultivation technology
Jasmine belongs to the Rhinoceros family and the genus Jasminum. It is a perennial evergreen shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions. Jasmine has emerald green leaves, white and jade-like flowers, and a gentle and gentle fragrance. It is praised as the first of all fragrant flowers and has excellent ornamental value. It also has high economic value. Jasmine is the most important fragrant flower for tea. Using jasmine flowers and tea leaves to make jasmine tea makes the tea rich and refreshing, and has a fragrant floral fragrance. The tea absorbs the floral fragrance, the flowers increase the tea, and the tea and floral fragrance are integrated. Jasmine tea is not only widely loved by the people, but also unique in the international market and enjoys a high reputation. Jasmine is an important raw material for extracting essences, and jasmine can also be used for medicinal purposes. Our county cultivates it as a fragrant flower for scented tea, and it has a high economic value.
  1. Garden selection
  Jasmine is native to the subtropics and adapts to high temperature and fertile soil conditions. The requirements for the ecological environment are: like light and fear shade, like fertilizer and fear thinness, like acid and fear alkali, like air and fear stuffiness. Therefore, when choosing a garden, we try to be close to its ecological environment and choose land with sufficient light, deep soil, fertile and acidic soil, sufficient water source, good drainage and irrigation, and convenient transportation to plant jasmine. After jasmine enters the flower picking season, flowers must be picked every day and transported to the processing plant for sale. The number of days for picking flowers is more than 200 days a year, so the land for planting jasmine should be within 10 kilometers from the jasmine factory to facilitate flower transportation and sales.
  2. Variety selection
  Jasmine belongs to the Osmanthus species, Jasmine, an evergreen climbing shrub. According to surveys, there are currently more than 60 varieties of jasmine, of which the cultivated varieties mainly include single-petal jasmine, double-petal jasmine and multi-petal jasmine.
  1. Single-petal jasmine: The plant is relatively short, 70-90 cm high, with thin stems and branches, vine-shaped, so it is called vine jasmine. The buds are slightly pointed and long, small and light. The yield is lower than that of double-petal jasmine, but higher than that of multi-petal jasmine. It is not cold-resistant, not waterlogged, and has weak resistance to diseases and insects.
  2. Double-petal jasmine is the main variety cultivated on a large scale for scenting tea. The plant is 1-1.5 meters high, upright, with many branches, thick stems and branches, dark green leaves, thick and shiny leaves, larger flowers than single-petal jasmine and multi-petal jasmine, white and oily buds, and obvious wax. The fragrance of flowers is strong, with strong growth and strong adaptability. The flower yield (more than 3 years) can reach more than 500 kg per mu.
  3. Multi-petal jasmine: The branches have obvious bulging protrusions, the leaves are dark green, the flowers are tightly knotted, round and small, and the top is slightly notched. The multi-petal jasmine blooms too long, the fragrance is lighter, and the yield is lower, and it is generally not used as a flower for scenting flower tea.
  The jasmine varieties cultivated in our county are the double-petal jasmine introduced from Hengxian, Guangxi, the founder of Yuyuan Company. In 2000, the science and technology group of our county's Agriculture Bureau conducted an observation and experiment on the introduction of jasmine flowers. The introduced varieties are double-petal jasmine and multi-petal jasmine, and the single-petal jasmine has not been introduced. The multi-petal jasmine blooms for a long time, and it has not been opened from 7 pm to the next day. The fragrance is light and the yield is low, and the scenting flower tea is not ideal. It is determined that the double-petal jasmine is the cultivated variety in our county.
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  : : : : : The premise of this method is that there must be a jasmine mother tree that is more than two years old. Moreover, the breeding number is lower than that of the cutter and cutting, which cannot meet the needs of large-scale cultivation.
Cutting breeding bed seedlings occupy less land and have a high land utilization rate. About 100,000 seedlings can be reproduced per mu. Because the cuttings are concentrated in the nursery, it is easy to manage and there is room for full selection of seedlings, the quality of the seedlings is high, the growth is neat, and it is also suitable for the requirements of large-scale production of seedlings, so it is widely used in production.
  From 1998 to 1999, the seedlings for production were mainly transported by Yuyuan Company from Hengxian, Guangxi, and the county was conducted on-site seedlings by Yuyuan Company and the self-employed Li Hongzhou. In March 1998, Yuyuan Company transferred branches from Hengxian, Guangxi to breed seedlings and cultivated 130,000 seedlings. In 1999, Yuyuan Company cultivated 190,000 seedlings, and individual Li Hongzhou cultivated 330,000 seedlings. In 2000, the number of seedlings increased to 5, the area of ​​seedlings increased to 100 mu, and the number of seedlings increased to 10 million. In 2002, our county still had 5 million seedlings for transplanting in the field.
  Operation methods for cuttings:
  (1) Select cuttings. The cuttings used for breeding mainly come from the branches cut during the annual pruning. You should choose the middle and lower branches that are free of diseases and pests and diseases, and the middle and lower parts of the same branch are the best.
  (2) Nursery selection: sand or sand loam with loose and fertile soil, sufficient water source, convenient drainage and irrigation, and convenient transportation.
  (3) Preparation of geographic soil: Before growing seedlings in the nursery, rake and level them, dig drains and irrigation trenches around, dig 120 cm wide in the moisture surface, 25 cm wide in the ditch width, 20 cm deep in the depth of trenches,
  dig trenches to clean the moisture, the moisture surface is flat, and the soil particles are finely broken. After wetting the seedling bed thoroughly, use 150 ml of herbicide-Duahe agent/mu to spray the seedling bed. In winter, seedlings are covered with mulch film. (4) Cut and process the
cutting branches cut during the annual overhaul in the shade, organize manpower to cut the cuttings. The operation method is: select branches with 2-3 sections and a length of about 10 cm, cut off the leaves, cut them flat at about 1 cm from the axillary bud, and cut them flat at about 1 cm from the axillary bud, and cut them into a 45-degree inclined mouth, tie them up with 80-100 pieces, and moisturize and store them in a cool place.
Before cutting, the cuttings should be treated with chemicals. First, soak them into 1000 times of liquid for 3-5 minutes, and then soak them with 50PPM rooting powder for 20-30 minutes. After taking them out, cut them on the seedling bed at a row spacing of 12 cm x 4 cm. When cutting, the top of the cuttings should be about 3 cm away from the soil surface. 150,000 cuttings can be cut per mu.
  (5) The seedling bed management
of the cuttings should keep the soil moist, pay attention to weeding frequently on sunny days to keep the seedlings free from weeds. The seedling beds have small seedlings and few root systems. It is best to apply water and fertilizer. It is best to use manure water to water. Apply thinly and frequently, and fertilizer once a month. When the seedling beds find pests and pests, it is necessary to prevent and control them in a timely manner. Use 1000 times of the sclerotia + 1000 times of the insecticide pill once a month. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   :
  :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : In the spring and autumn of 1999, 1115 mu were introduced, and the survival rate of field surveys was above 90%.   2. Cultivation specifications   In order to facilitate sorting, soil moisture should be planted. The moisture width should be carried out. The moisture width is generally 120 cm wide, 20 cm high, and 25 cm wide. A plant ditch with a width of 30 cm wide and 10 cm deep on both sides of the moisture surface is dug. The plant spacing is 25 cm, a row spacing is 60 cm, and 4,000 plants are planted per mu. In 2000, the Science and Technology Group of the Agricultural Bureau conducted a jasmine cultivation density test, with two rows planting, 3,500 plants, 4,000 plants and 4,500 plants per mu. The transplant was transplanted on March 11, 2000, and the flowers were picked on June 25, and the flower picking period was drawn from June to October. After 3 months of pinching and picking buds, the top was increased to 32-42 branches. The yields of the three treatments are 18.7 kg, 20.21 kg, and 16.9 kg, which is equivalent to 207 kg, 224 kg, and 187 kg. The initial test result is that 4,000 plants are best planted per mu.   3. Transplanting method:   Select seedlings with a height of more than 30 cm, more than two branches, two layers of roots, normal leaf color, strong plant, and no diseases and pests. Cut off the branches and leaves more than 25 cm, cut off the excessively long root system, and use 0.1% pacifier + 0.3% calcium liquid to dip the roots for 3-5 minutes before planting. Plant in the plant groove according to the distance of 25 cm. Plant straight, and straight root system should be combined with the soil. There is no hole, and the root system should not be exposed. The root system should be watered enough. The soil moisture surface can be covered with bagasse, straw, sugarcane leaves, etc. 5. The pruning and short-cut jasmine flowers grow and develop quickly. They can bloom when planted in the year. The yield is the highest in the third and fourth years. After a fixed value of 6-7 years, the plant begins to decline and the yield gradually decreases. In order to ensure that jasmine flowers have a high yield and stable yield, they must be pruned and short-cut every year. If aging is found, it must be updated.   1. Top and short-   cut jasmine (6 months), the seedling stand is small and the branches are few. It is necessary to cultivate a high-yield tree shape as soon as possible. Therefore, top is to destroy the growth of the top and promote it to branch more and form more buds. Through investigation, top is to germinate -7-10 days earlier than not top and buds, and there are 2-3 times more new branches. When top is to be performed when top, it must also be performed, mainly for newly planted young trees. Short-cut is to cut the long-cut branches short before buds appear in early and mid-February every year, retain 3-4 pairs of leaves, and the top advantages of the apostle long-cut branches weaken, which will promote early pregnancy buds. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   3. Pruning   jasmine in summer. Summer pruning is to create a good environment for jasmine flowers that is ventilated and transparent, and at the same time, according to the market conditions of jasmine flowers. Artificially adjust the peak flower production period, avoid the low flower price tide, and improve the efficiency of flower planting. The branch age of jasmine pruning is to plant jasmine trees that have been planted for more than one year. In early June of each year, use large pruning shears, electric hedge shears and other tools to cut jasmine flowers from 50-60 cm above the ground, cut off all branches and leaves on the upper part, so that the jasmine tree forms a neat crown, remove the cut branches and leaves, and then remove all the thin and weak branches of diseased branches, dead branches, hanging ground, and lower part. After pruning, timely plow and loosen the soil, apply 40 kg of special jasmine fertilizer and 15 kg of potassium sulfate compound fertilizer per mu to prevent and control pests and diseases in a timely manner. This year, the price of jasmine in our county has been fully opened to enter the market to connect with the national jasmine market. After the early flowering advantage is leveraging the advantages of early flowering in winter, the highest flowering price this year reaches 27 yuan/kg. After the flowering price falls to 3 yuan/kg in April, it strengthens scientific and technological training in a timely manner. Summer pruning training is held on May 17, but due to the decline in price, some flower farmers have a frustrated confidence, relaxation is severe, and pests and diseases occur severely. The flower farmers in Lijiang Town, Lijiang Town have a high scientific awareness and strong commodity awareness. After the price drops, they still manage jasmine according to the guidance of scientific and technological personnel. When the flowering price rebounds in August, September and October, 15 kilograms per mu can be picked every day, and the income is more than 100 yuan. Because their flower management is in place, the pests and diseases are light, the buds are big, and the aroma is strong, and they have become a hot item for tea merchants. Their daily price is the highest on the market. The total group of 270 mu of jasmine, the income of a mu is about 3,500 yuan. On October 29, Xingya Flower Tea held more than 30 banquets to invite all the flower farmers to reward the high-quality flowers they planted.   4. Updated.   After 6-7 years of planting, the growth and development ability of the plants declined. Some jasmine gardens or individual plants may also be updated due to poor management and slow growth. The specific method is: use large pruning shears to cut off all the parts above 3-5 cm above the ground, or cut them flatly on the ground, and then apply fertilizer and cultivate soil to promote the re-split branches on the ground. 6. Fertilizer and water management Jasmine is a financial crop for harvesting flower buds. The annual flowering period of our county is 9 months (about 200 days), and there is enough fertilizer investment during the entire flowering period. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   : :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : In 2001, the county soil fertilizer station conducted a fertilizer effect experiment on jasmine organic and inorganic compound fertilizer in Xizhuang Villagers Group in Lijiang Town. Three treatments were made, and 160 kg of jasmine organic and inorganic fertilizer was applied at one time. 160 kg of jasmine organic and inorganic fertilizer was applied per mu, and fertilized in three times (i.e. 50%, 30%, 20%) was applied, 40 kg of urea, 100 kg of general calcium, and 100 kg of potassium sulfate compound fertilizer was applied per mu. Treatment 2 (applying organic and inorganic fertilizer in three times) was the best effect. At the same time, a comparison test of 1 mu of co-field fertilizer was conducted in another farmer of the same group, and 2 (applying organic and inorganic fertilizer in three times) was better than usual, and the yield increased. It is recommended to promote the application of three-time fertilizer fertilization method for organic and inorganic fertilizer. In 2002, more than 70% of farmers used this fertilization method.   2. Water management   After planting, jasmine seedlings should be watered with sufficient root water. In the future, according to the water requirements of jasmine, maintain the soil moisture content between 60-70%. Too much water will cause root rot, yellow leaves, and severe black root death. If drought occurs, leaves will shrink and the flowers will shrink. Therefore, pay attention to drought irrigation and dig drains to prevent water accumulation. Once the leaves of the flower tree are slightly rolled, water-sinking or irrigating the water in time.   3. Soil management,   weeding and weeding are created to create a breathable, water-retaining, loose, and weedless environment for the jasmine tree. Intra-cultivation should be carried out more than 6-7 times a year. Deeply plow away from the base of the seedlings, and shallow plow nearby, and generally about 7 cm of soil is about 7 cm. After plowing in the dry season, a layer of sugarcane bagasse, sugarcane leaves, straw, etc. will be laid on the soil, which has the effect of weeding and drought resistance.   7. Pest control and control of   jasmine diseases mainly include white silk disease and branch blight, and pests mainly include jasmine bud borer (flower heartworm), whitefly, leaf rolling borer, thrips, red spider, etc.   1. White silk disease   White silk disease (flesh disease) is a disease caused by fungal infection. Main manifestations: First, the base branches and lower roots near the ground spread to form a white silk silk film layer, gradually forming white and yellow oilseed particles, namely sclerotia, which is the main symptom of identifying white silk disease. After the seedlings start, the cortex of the stems and roots in the affected area rots, and the plant is hindered from nutrition; the leaves die and fall off, and the whole plant dies. Prevention and treatment methods: Strict quarantine, eliminate bacterial sources, do a good job in the drainage of the garden, use 1,000 times spray spray to prevent and control during the flowering period. Severely occurring diseased plants must be excavated and burned, and the original soil should be cleaned and disinfected and replanted.   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :   : : : : :