A quick guide to growing flowers and plants at home (Part 2)

Tips for growing flowers
1. Six methods of watering flowers
① Watering flowers with leftover tea Leaves can be used to water flowers, which can not only maintain soil moisture, but also add nitrogen and other nutrients to plants. However, depending on the humidity of the flower pot, you should water it regularly and appropriately, and you cannot just pour leftover tea and water it.
② Watering flowers with spoiled milk After the milk has gone bad, adding water to the flowers is beneficial to the growth of the flowers. But you should use more water to make it more diluted. Unfermented milk is not suitable for watering flowers, because it generates a lot of heat during fermentation, which will "burn" the roots (rot the roots).
③ Watering flowers with cold boiled water Using cold boiled water to water flowers can make flowers and trees lush and colorful, and can promote early flowering. If used to water asparagus fern, it can make its branches and leaves develop horizontally, and grow short and dense.
④ Watering flowers with warm water In winter, the weather is cold and the water is cold, so it is better to use warm water to water the flowers. It is best to place the water indoors and wait until it is close to the room temperature before watering. It is better if the water temperature can reach 35℃ before watering.
⑤ Watering flowers with rice water Regularly watering flowers such as Milan with rice water can make their branches and leaves lush and the flowers bright.
⑥ Watering flowers when no one is at home If a flower lover is away from home for ten days or half a month due to visiting relatives or going out for business, there will be no one to water the flowers. At this time, you can fill a plastic bag with water, use a needle to poke a small hole in the bottom of the bag, and place it in the flower pot. The small hole is close to the soil, and the water will slowly seep out to moisten the soil. The size of the hole should be controlled to prevent the water from leaking too quickly. Or put a container filled with cold water next to the flower pot, find a wide cloth strip with good water absorption, put one end into the water in the container, and bury the other end in the soil of the flower pot. In this way, the soil can remain moist for at least half a month and the flowers will not wither. TOP
2. Five methods of fertilization
(1) Medical stone fertilizer Sprinkle a layer of medical stone particles in the flower pot to promote the growth of flowers and prolong the flowering period.
(2) Crushed eggshell fertilizer Crush eggshells and bury them in flower pots. They are very good fertilizers and can make potted flowers grow luxuriantly, with luxuriant leaves and bright flowers.
(3) Cook a small amount of soybeans and set aside. Drill three holes in each flower pot and put 3-5 cooked soybeans in to a depth of 2-3 cm without damaging the flower roots. Cover with soil as usual.
(4) Roast and crush the pig bones and fish bones that you usually discard and apply them to the bottom or surface of the pot.
(5) Use rice washing water to water the flowers. Rice washing water contains trace elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. It is both a compound fertilizer and a mild fertilizer. It does not damage the flower roots and can be used at any time as long as the pot soil is not soaked in water.
3. Collect organic fertilizer for potted flowers
It is not advisable to use chemical fertilizers for home flower cultivation. The main fertilizers such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium needed for flower cultivation can be collected in daily life. For example: moldy and inedible waste peanuts, beans, melon seeds and grains are all nitrogen-containing fertilizers. After fermentation as base fertilizer or soaking into solution as topdressing, they can promote the growth of flowers and trees; fish bones, broken bones, chicken feathers, eggshells, and people's cut nails and hair are rich in phosphorus. Mix these wastes into old culture soil, add some water, put them in a plastic bag and put them in a corner. After a period of decomposition, they can become excellent organic fertilizers. If these wastes are soaked into a solution and then used as topdressing, the flowers of domestic potted flowers can be bright and fruitful. In addition, fermented rice water, water replaced by bean sprouts, plant ash water, rainwater and wastewater in fish tanks, etc., all contain certain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. As long as they are used in moderation, they will promote the growth and development of flowers and trees. TOP
4. Fruit peels can neutralize alkaline potting soil .
Some flowers in the south are not easy to survive or bloom in potted plants in the north. This is because the potting soil is too alkaline. There are many ways to neutralize alkaline soil. This method is to soak the peeled apple skin and apple core in cold water. Frequently use this water to water the flower pots, which can gradually reduce the alkalinity of the potting soil and is beneficial to the growth of certain plants. TOP
5. Disease prevention of flowers
In early spring, various flowers will enter a vigorous growth season. At this time, you can spray 1% Bordeaux liquid on the leaves and backs 1-3 times to prevent diseases. The preparation method of 1% Bordeaux liquid is: 1 gram of copper sulfate, crush it and add 50 ml of hot water to dissolve; then use 1 gram of quicklime, use a few drops of water to powder it, then add 50 ml of water, and filter out the residue; pour these two solutions into the same container at the same time and stir well, and finally a sky blue transparent Bordeaux liquid is formed. TOP

6. Six ways to kill insects in flower pots
(1) When small flying insects appear in the flower pot, use three or four cotton sticks (cotton sticks), dip them in dichlorvos, and stick the handles into the pot soil around the plant. The flying insects will be killed.
(2) Washing powder: Dissolve one tablespoon of washing powder in four liters of water and spray it on the leaves and flowers every two weeks. This can completely kill white flies and bacteria.
(3) Milk: Mix four cups of flour and half a cup of milk in 20 liters of water, filter it with gauze, and spray it on the leaves and flowers. This can kill ticks and their eggs.
(4) Beer: Pour beer into a shallow basin under the soil of the flower pot. Snails will drown if they crawl in.
(5) Garlic: Crush a head of garlic and mix it with one tablespoon of pepper powder in half a liter of water. After one hour, spray it on the leaves and flowers to prevent rats from invading.
(6) When ants appear in a flower pot, soak cigarette butts and tobacco in hot water for one or two days. When the water turns dark brown, sprinkle some of the water on the flower stems and leaves, and dilute the rest and pour it into the flower pot. The ants will be eliminated. TOP
7. Three ways to keep fresh flowers
① Roses Use fire to burn the cut before inserting them into a vase.
Autumn chrysanthemums Apply a little mint crystals to the cut.
Chrysanthemums Add a small amount of urea or soil extract (a solution made by mixing fertile soil with water and filtering it) to the clean water used to grow chrysanthemums. This will keep the chrysanthemums in the vase for up to 30 days before they wither, which is more than 10 days longer than using ordinary clean water.
White jasmine Wrap it in a wet cloth at night and uncover it during the day. This will delay the withering of the flowers by 2-3 days.
Hibiscus Put it in hot water for one or two minutes, then put it in cold water.
Dahlias Soak the cut in hot water for a while, then put it in cold water.
Peonies Soak the cut in hot water first, then put it in cold water.
Camellia: Insert in light salt water.
Lily: Insert in sugar water.
Gardenia: Add 1-2 drops of fresh meat juice to water.
Narcissus: Insert in 1/1000 light salt water.
Lotus: Use mud to block the pores and then insert in light salt water.
② When you go out, take out the flowers in the vase and store them in the fruit and vegetable box of the refrigerator. They can keep them from withering for a long time. When you come back, take them out and put them in the vase. They will be lifelike again.
③ Dissolve aspirin in water to extend the flowering time of flowers in the vase. TOP
8. Adjust the flowering time
Put the flower seeds, plant bulbs or branches for cuttings into plastic bags, put them in the refrigerator, take them out and plant them at the appropriate time, and adjust the flowering time at will.
9. Method for reviving frozen potted flowers
In the cold spring season, potted flowers will freeze stiff when placed outdoors. In this case, you can quickly wrap the potted flowers with three layers of waste newspaper with strong water absorption. Be careful not to damage the branches and leaves of the potted flowers when wrapping, and avoid direct sunlight. Leave it alone for a day to allow the temperature of the potted flowers to gradually rise. After this treatment, the frozen potted flowers can be revived.

10. Clivia
summer heat relief method In midsummer, the temperature is often above 30℃, which is extremely unfavorable for the growth of Clivia. For this reason, sheds are usually used to cool down. You can also bury the Clivia with the pot in the sand (bury the pot), and then sprinkle water on the sand once in the morning and evening every day. In this way, the pot soil can be kept moist, and more importantly, the heat absorption effect of the water evaporation in the sand can be used to achieve the purpose of cooling. TOP
11. Hydrangea turns blue
. Nail a rusty iron nail into the root of the hydrangea, and the hydrangea will obviously turn blue.
12. Dust cleaning method on plants
When many families clean, whether in winter or in midsummer, they usually put the potted flowers under the faucet to rinse them. This often affects the growth of plants due to sudden changes in temperature. If it is a foliage plant, you can use water to clean it one by one along the veins of the branches and leaves. Other plants can be rinsed with a spray bottle. TOP
13. Deodorization method for growing flowers
If fermented solution is used as fertilizer for indoor flowers, they will emit an unpleasant odor. If you put orange peels into the fertilizer liquid, the smell will be eliminated. At the same time, orange peels themselves are also excellent fertilizers.
14. Four methods of homemade insecticides
① Take 200 grams of green onions, chop them, put them in 10 liters of water and soak them for a day and night, filter them and use them to spray the damaged plants, several times a day, and spray them for 5 consecutive days.
② 200-300 grams of garlic, mash them to extract the juice, add 10 liters of water to dilute, and immediately use them to spray the plants.
③ 400 grams of tobacco powder, soak them in 10 liters of water for two days and nights, filter out the tobacco powder, add 10 liters of water and 20-30 grams of soap powder when using, stir well and spray them on the damaged flowers and trees.
④ 10 liters of water, 3 kilograms of wood ash, soak for 3 days and nights, and then spray the plants. TOP
15. Weed eradication method
Weeds have strong reproductive power. The weeds in the garden have just been pulled out, and they will grow everywhere again in a few days. In this case, do not pour out the salt water used to pickle duck eggs or pickles. In the weed season, pour the salt water on the weeds. Three or four times can stop the growth of weeds. In addition, the water used to boil potatoes can also remove weeds in the yard or aisle. Another effective way to remove weeds is to sprinkle water on the ground to be weeded, so that the land is soaked. After 24 hours, water it with bleaching water, and the weeds will soon wither and die. TOP
16. How to plant
Milan Milan has a strong fragrance and is the most suitable flower to plant in the family. It likes warmth and sunshine, and the flower pot should be placed in a sunny place. It also loves fertilizer. It is best to use fish pond mud to make culture soil, and use dry pig and chicken manure and phosphorus-rich fertilizer as base fertilizer. It blooms many times, and nutrients must be supplemented in time. After each flowering, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied. When the temperature is high, spray the leaves with clean water before sunset to promote its vigorous growth.

Cultivation and management technology of flowers (II)
Introducing soil treatment technology
Soil is one of the environmental conditions for the growth and development of flowers. The roots stretch and extend in the soil. As long as the soil layer is deep, well-drained and breathable, the pH value is appropriate, and there is a certain amount of fertility, they can grow and bloom normally. Since the environmental conditions required for the growth and development of flowers are different, including the requirements for the physical and chemical properties of the soil, they also vary depending on the type of flowers. Therefore, soil treatment technology is the key to the success of flower cultivation. Generally, the roots of potted flowers are confined to the pots. Rely on limited soil to supply nutrients and water to maintain the needs of growth and development. Therefore, the requirements for soil are more stringent.
1. The basic requirements of flowers for soil There are many types of flowers, and the characteristics of the soil suitable for their growth and development are also very different. Generally speaking, most flowers require soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, well-drained, and highly breathable. Most open-field flowers require the pH value of the soil to be around 7.0, while greenhouse flowers require acidic soil. 1. Soil characteristics required by flowers ① Good aggregate structure, drainage and air permeability. The aggregate structure is a 0.01-5mm aggregate formed by the bonding of humus and mineral values ​​in the soil. There are capillary pores inside the aggregates, which can store water and fertilizer. There are larger pores between the aggregates, which can drain and ventilate, and will not compact after watering or rain. Soil with poor aggregate structure is mostly heavy, compacted, and poorly drained. Cultivating flowers can easily lead to root rot, yellowing leaves, and even dryness and death. ② Rich in humus and lasting fertilizer effect. Humus is an organic matter formed by the decay of animal and plant residues and excrement. It is rich in humus and effective nutrient elements, which is conducive to the absorption of flower roots. The method of increasing soil humus mainly relies on adding fully decomposed organic fertilizer. ③ The pH value should be suitable. Generally, most open-field flowers require neutral soil, while most greenhouse flowers require acidic soil. The adaptability of plants to the acidity and alkalinity of the environment is determined by the root characteristics of the plants. According to the adaptability of plant roots to the acidity and alkalinity of the environment, they are divided into: acid soil plants; weakly acid soil plants; nearly neutral (slightly acidic) soil plants; weakly alkaline soil plants. The adaptability range of various plants to hydrogen ion concentrations is shown in Table 1-1. The pH value of the soil can usually be adjusted with sulfuric acid and quicklime, and ferrous sulfate can also adjust the pH value of the soil. Generally, industrial waste sulfuric acid is used to adjust to save costs. 2. Requirements of various flowers for soil ⑴ Outdoor flowers ① One- and two-year-old flowers: They can grow well in well-drained sandy loam and loam, and clay and too light soils grow poorly. Suitable soils are soils with deep topsoil, high groundwater level, moderate dryness and wetness, and rich in organic matter. Summer flowering species are most afraid of dry soil, so they require convenient drainage and irrigation. Clay loam is suitable for autumn-sown flowers, such as marigolds, cornflowers, lupines, etc. ② Perennial flowers: The root system is strong and deep in the soil, and there should be a 40-50cm soil layer; drainage materials should be laid in the lower layer to ensure good drainage. More organic fertilizer should be applied during planting to maintain a good soil structure for a long time. After one fertilization, it can maintain flowering for many years. Generally, perennial flowers require light loam rich in humus during the seedling stage. After the second year, slightly heavy soil is suitable. ③ Bulbous flowers: The requirements for soil are very strict. Bulbous flowers are generally suitable for light loam rich in humus and well-drained. Loam is also acceptable. In particular, the lower layer is well-drained gravel soil and the topsoil is deep sandy loam. However, daffodils, hyacinths, lilies, amaryllis, tuberoses, and tulips are suitable for loam. ⑵ Greenhouse flowers require rich humus, loose and soft soil, good air permeability and drainage, which can maintain the moist state of the soil for a long time and is not easy to dry. Generally, most greenhouse flowers require acidic soil.

2. Soil types suitable for flower cultivation The soil types commonly used in general flower production are: river sand, garden soil, leaf humus, peat soil, pine needle soil, pond mud, turf soil, swamp soil, etc. 1. River sand River sand does not contain organic matter, is clean, and has a neutral pH value. It is suitable for cutting seedlings, sowing seedlings, and direct cultivation of cacti and succulent plants. Generally, heavy clay soil can be mixed with river sand to improve the structure of the soil. 2. Garden soil Garden soil is generally the surface sandy loam of vegetable gardens, orchards, bamboo gardens, etc. The soil is relatively fertile and is neutral, acidic or alkaline. Garden soil is easy to harden after drying and has poor water permeability. It is generally not used alone. 3. Leaf humus Leaf humus is generally made of rotten leaves and vegetable leaves. It contains a lot of organic matter, is loose and fertile, and has good air permeability and drainage. It is weakly acidic and can be used alone to cultivate Clivia, orchids, and cyclamen. Generally, leaf humus is used in combination with garden soil and mountain mud. Generally, the fallen leaves of broad-leaved trees are collected in autumn and winter (preferably the fallen leaves of poplar, willow, elm, locust, etc. that are easy to rot), mixed with garden soil and piled for 1 to 2 years, and the fallen leaves can be sieved and used after they are fully rotted. 4. Pine needle soil is the humus formed by the decay of fallen leaves of pine trees in mountain forests for many years, that is, pine needle soil. Pine needle soil is gray-brown, fertile, with good air permeability and drainage, and has a strong acidic reaction. It is suitable for flowers that like strong acidity, such as azalea, gardenia, and camellia. 5. Peat soil Peat soil, also known as peat soil, is made of aquatic plants such as reeds, which are carbonized by peat moss. In the north, brown peat is often used to prepare nutrient soil. Peat soil is soft and loose, has good drainage and air permeability, and has a weak acidic reaction. It is a good cutting medium. It is more suitable to use peat soil to cultivate orchids, camellia, osmanthus, white orchids and other acidic flowers native to the south. 6. Pond mud Pond mud is also called river mud. Generally, in autumn and winter, silt from ponds or lakes is scooped up, dried and crushed, and then mixed with coarse sand, husk ash or other light and loose soil. 7. Turf soil: In natural pastures or grasslands, 10 cm of turf is dug out, layered, and decomposed for a year or more, and then sieved to remove stones and grass roots. Turf soil has sufficient nutrients and is weakly acidic, so it can be used to grow plants, roses, dianthus, dahlias, etc. 8. Swamp soil: After the swamp dries up, the surface soil is dug out, which is a good raw material for potting soil. Swamp soil is rich in humus, has lasting fertility, and is acidic, but it is easy to harden and crack after drying. It should be mixed with coarse sand. 9. Husk ash, also known as rice husk ash, is the ash formed after the husk is burned. It is neutral or weakly acidic and contains high potassium nutrients. Adding it to the soil can make the soil loose and breathable.
3. Flower nutrient soil Flower nutrient soil is made by artificial pile and fermentation. It is generally divided into ordinary nutrient soil, fertilized nutrient soil, special nutrient soil, scorched mud nutrient soil, etc. 1. Ordinary nutrient soil In autumn, collect weeds, sawdust, dead branches and leaves, vegetable leaves, etc., first lay 30cm on the bottom layer, and water or pour an appropriate amount of human feces and urine, and then cover with a layer of 10cm thick soil. Stack it layer by layer, up to about 1.5 meters. Finally, cover the top with soil. After fermentation and decomposition, sieve to remove debris and use it. After the compost is formed, pay attention to management to avoid nutrient loss caused by rain. 2. Fertilized nutrient soil Add 10% of decomposed cake fertilizer or 20% of animal feces to ordinary nutrient soil. Suitable for most herbaceous flower cultivation. 3. Special nutrient soil Add 0.1-0.2% sulfur ore powder to ordinary nutrient soil, pile it for a period of time, and then spread it out to make the sulfur smell clean. The pH value of this compost is about 5.5, which is suitable for acidic flowers. 4. Scorched mud nutrient soil In autumn, pile up the remains of plants such as dead branches and leaves with garden soil in layers, like steamed buns, and cover them with soil, then slowly burn them with fire to smoke them into yellow-brown gray soil. Stack them for a period of time and sieve them for use. It is suitable for planting fruit-viewing plants such as small kumquats and bergamots.
4. Preparation of nutrient soil 1. Greenhouse one- and two-year-old flowers, such as primroses, cineraria, cattail flowers, butterfly grass, etc. The nutrient soil in the seedling stage is leaf humus: garden soil: river sand = 5:3.5:1.5. The nutrient soil for planting is leaf humus: garden soil: river sand = 2~3:5~6:1~2. 2. The nutrient soil for perennial flowers, such as plants, asters, peonies, etc., can be leaf humus: garden soil: river sand = 3~4:5~6:1~2. 3. The nutrient soil for greenhouse bulbous flowers such as gloxinia, cyclamen, bulbous begonias, etc. Leaf humus: garden soil: river sand = 5:4:14. For greenhouse woody flowers, such as camellia, Michelia, white orchid, 3-4 parts of leaf humus can be used, mixed with garden soil and an equal amount of river sand, and a small amount of bone meal. 5. The nutrient soil for cacti and succulent plants is soil: coarse sand = 1:1; for Euphorbia milii, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, etc.: leaf humus: garden soil: river sand = 2:2:3. 6. For azaleas, pine needle soil: decomposed horse manure or cow manure = 1:1 is the most suitable. 7. The nutrient soil for major flowers and trees is generally recommended to be leaf humus: garden soil: river sand = 4:4:2; for rubber trees, cordyline, etc.: leaf humus: garden soil: river sand = 3:5:2; for palms, coconuts, etc.: 5 parts of garden soil and 2 parts of river sand. Stump landscape and potted trees: appropriate amount of leaf humus and compost soil, 1-2 parts of river sand must be guaranteed to facilitate drainage.
5. Soil disinfection: In order to prevent and control soil-borne pests and diseases, soil disinfection is very necessary. Common disinfection methods are: 1. Steam disinfection method: where conditions permit, you can use pipes (iron pipes, etc.) to lead the steam from the boiler to a wooden or iron sealed container, and put the soil into the container for disinfection. The steam temperature is about 100-120℃. The disinfection time is 40-60 minutes. Punch some small holes on the iron pipe in the container, and the steam will spray out from the small holes. 2. High temperature disinfection method: When planting in small quantities, you can use a large pot to stir-fry the soil. Keep turning it over, and when the temperature is 120-130℃, 40 minutes is enough. 3. Chemical disinfection method: ① Formaldehyde fumigation, use 400-500ml of 40% formaldehyde to irrigate the soil and seal it for 2-4 hours. After disinfection, the soil should be air-dried for 3-4 days and then used after the agent evaporates. You can also use 50 times formaldehyde solution to irrigate the soil, seal it for 24 hours, and then air it for 10-14 days before use. ② Chloropicrin: It is a highly toxic fumigant that can kill insects, rodents, sterilize, and prevent and control nematodes. 25 holes/m2, hole depth 20cm, hole distance 20cm, 5ml of liquid medicine in each hole, cover the hole with soil immediately after application, step on it, sprinkle water on the soil surface to delay the volatilization of the agent. When the temperature is above 20℃, keep it for 10 days, and keep it for 15 days at 15℃, and then turn the soil and harrow it many times to prevent the agent from affecting the root system of the plant. Wear gloves and a gas mask when using chloropicrin. ③ 70% pentachloronitrobenzene powder, 2.5-5kg/mu, apply it in strips on the ridge, and then turn it into the soil, which can also prevent and control pests and diseases.

Cultivation and management technology of flowers (III)
Introduce the formula fertilization technology of flower production
. 1. Nutrient elements required for the growth and development of flowers. 1. Macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. ⑴ Nitrogen (N) nutrition of flowers: Nitrogen is necessary for the growth and development of plants. Usually, the total amount of nitrogen in plants is not very high, such as 1.0-2.0% for the whole rice plant. Plants are plants with high nitrogen content, and the nitrogen content in plant leaves accounts for about 3.5-5.0% of their dry weight. Nitrogen is mainly absorbed in the form of ammonium nitrogen and nitrate nitrogen. Some small molecular organic nitrogen such as urea can also be absorbed and utilized by plants. Nitrogen is the main component of protein, accounting for about 16-18% of the protein content. Protein is contained in the cytoplasm and nucleus. All enzymes are also based on protein. In addition, nitrogen is contained in compounds such as nucleic acids, phospholipids, chlorophyll, and coenzymes; some plant hormones such as auxin and kinetin, and vitamins (such as B1, B2, B3, PP) also contain nitrogen. Therefore, nitrogen occupies a primary position in plant life, so nitrogen is also called the element of life. ⑵ Phosphorus (P) nutrition of flowers Phosphorus is also a necessary nutrient for plant growth and development. The phosphorus content of general plants is 1-8%. Plants absorb a large amount of phosphorus from the flower bud differentiation period to the flowering period, so it is necessary to appropriately increase phosphorus fertilizer before the flower bud differentiation period; when the soil temperature is low, the effective phosphorus content in the soil is low, and phosphorus fertilizer should be increased; appropriate application of phosphorus fertilizer after autumn can improve the cold resistance of plants and increase the number of root and stem tillers. Phosphorus is mainly absorbed in the form of HPO42- and H2PO4-. Phosphorus participates in the composition of nucleic acids, nucleotides, phospholipids and certain coenzymes, so it is the main component of cytoplasm and cell nucleus. Phosphorus participates in many metabolic processes such as glycolysis. ⑶ Potassium (K) nutrition of flowers Potassium is one of the three major elements necessary for plant growth and development. The potassium content in the soil is relatively rich, so people have long paid insufficient attention to the application of potassium fertilizers. In recent years, due to the large-scale use of nitrogen fertilizers and phosphorus fertilizers, the demand for potassium fertilizers has also increased. Potassium exists in organisms in a free or adsorbed state. It activates various enzymes in plants and regulates various metabolisms of plants. The potassium content of plants is about 1.0-3.5%. Potassium can promote the synthesis and transportation of carbohydrates, so applying potassium can make the stems thicker; potassium can also increase the hydration of cells and improve the drought resistance and cold resistance of plants. Generally, applying potassium fertilizer in late autumn and early winter can improve the cold resistance of plants. 2. Minor elements calcium, magnesium, and sulfur Although the content of calcium, magnesium, and sulfur in plants is not as high as that of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, they are also necessary for plant growth and development. If they are lacking, they will show deficiency symptoms. ⑴ The role of calcium (Ca) Calcium is a component of the cell wall, so calcium deficiency will affect cell division. If calcium gelatin is a component of the intercellular layer, cell division cannot proceed normally when calcium is lacking, often causing necrosis of the apical buds and tender leaves, and more serious damage to the root tip. Calcium participates in protein synthesis; calcium is also an activator of some enzymes, such as ATP hydrolase and phospholipid hydrolase, which require calcium ions. Calcium has the function of neutralizing organic acids in plants and soil acidity; it can resist physiological disorders caused by excessive amounts of certain ions, thus affecting the absorption of multiple elements. For example, when the calcium content in the cultivation medium is too high, it will affect the absorption of potassium and magnesium ions, and also antagonize the absorption of iron and manganese. ⑵The role of magnesium (Mg) Magnesium is a component of chlorophyll. When magnesium is deficient, it affects the synthesis of chlorophyll, thus affecting the photosynthesis. Magnesium is an activator of multiple enzymes, affecting the nucleic acid and protein synthesis and energy conversion of plants. ⑶The role of sulfur (S) Sulfur is absorbed and utilized by plants in the form of SO42-. SO2 in the atmosphere can also be directly absorbed and utilized by the aboveground parts of plants as a sulfur source. Sulfur participates in the formation of sulfur-containing amino acids such as photon, cysteine ​​and methionine, and is one of the components of protein. 3. Trace elements ⑴The role of iron (Fe) Iron is absorbed and utilized in the form of Fe2+ or Fe3+. Iron is a component of heme, which is a cofactor of many important oxidoreductases in plants (such as cytochrome, cytochrome oxidase, catalase, and peroxidase). In the molecules of these enzymes, the reversible conversion of the two states of Fe3+ and Fe2+ plays an important role in the electron transfer of respiration. The cofactor of some oxidoreductases (such as ferredoxin) is not heme, but also contains iron, which is called non-heme iron. Although iron is not a component of chlorophyll, it is required for the synthesis of chlorophyll. ⑵The role of boron (boron in the soil is absorbed by plants in the form of BO32-. Boron can increase the activity of invertase, promote the transport of carbohydrates, and facilitate the transport of light and products from leaves to roots and stamens. Therefore, boron can promote root development. Boron has a significant promoting effect on the development of floral organs, which is an important physiological function of boron. The effective amount range of boron is very narrow, generally 0.06-2.8ppm. In production, there have been large-scale crop poisoning caused by improper use of boron fertilizers. Therefore, be cautious when using boron fertilizers. ⑶The role of copper (Cu) Copper is a trace element necessary for flowers. Copper is a component of ascorbic acid oxidase and polyphenol oxidase, and plays a role in transferring electrons in oxidation and reduction. Chloroplasts contain a copper-containing protein called plastid cyanine, which plays an important role in the electron transfer system. Copper is also involved in the nitrite reduction process. Copper is mainly absorbed by plants in the form of Cu+ and Cu2+. ⑷The role of zinc (Zn) Zinc is directly involved in the synthesis of indoleacetic acid. When zinc is deficient, the content of indoleacetic acid in plants decreases, resulting in a series of symptoms. Zinc also It is an activator of many enzymes, including lactate dehydrogenase, glutamate dehydrogenase, alcohol dehydrogenase and pyrimidine nucleotide dehydrogenase. Zinc is also related to protein synthesis. (5) The role of manganese (Mn) Manganese is mainly absorbed by plants in the form of Mn2+. Manganese is an activator of many enzymes, including malate dehydrogenase and oxalosuccinate dehydrogenase in the tricarboxylic acid cycle, as well as many enzymes involved in fatty acid synthesis, DNA and RNA synthesis. Manganese is also an activator of nitrite reductase and hydroxylamine reductase, and the cofactor of indoleacetic acid oxidase contains manganese. Manganese also directly participates in photosynthesis and plays an important role in the photolysis of water and the release of oxygen. Manganese plays an important role in maintaining the structure of chlorophyll. When manganese is extremely deficient, the chloroplast layer structure of plants is destroyed. (6) The role of chlorine Chlorine is absorbed by plants in the form of Cl-. Chlorine does not participate in the structure of any organic molecule in plants. The main role of chlorine is to participate in the photolysis of water and the release of oxygen in photosynthesis. Plants are chlorine-sensitive crops. When using them, you should pay attention to prevent chlorine poisoning. When the chlorine content is high, it can promote the production of ethylene in plants and accelerate the aging process.

Nutritional diagnosis of flowers The external morphological characteristics of flowers are a comprehensive response of internal factors and external environmental conditions. When any necessary nutrient element is lacking or excessive in the soil, it will cause physiological symptoms unique to flowers, namely deficiency syndrome. Based on this, the lack or excess of a certain element can be judged, and corresponding measures can be taken. Generally, it is judged whether the plant lacks a certain nutrient element based on the growth and development of flowers, whether there are growth and development disorders, whether the morphology is abnormal, whether there is withering, etc., that is, nutritional diagnosis. Common nutritional diagnosis methods are as follows: 1. Morphological diagnosis When any necessary nutrient element is lacking in the soil, it will cause flowers to produce unique symptoms. Based on this, it can be judged that a certain element is lacking or excessive, and corresponding measures can be taken. 2. Chemical diagnosis The method of diagnosing the nutritional conditions of seedlings by analyzing the chemical composition in the plant and comparing it with the chemical composition of normal plants is called chemical diagnosis. 3. Fertilization diagnosis The lack of elements is preliminarily determined through morphological diagnosis, chemical diagnosis and other methods, and these mineral fertilizers are supplemented. After a period of time, if the symptoms disappear, the cause of the disease can be determined. This method is called fertilization diagnosis.
3. Deficiency of nutrients in flowers 1. Nitrogen deficiency When nitrogen is insufficient, the growth of flowers is stunted and the growth rate drops sharply. At first, the color becomes lighter, then turns yellow and falls off, and generally no necrosis occurs. The chlorosis symptoms always start from the old leaves and develop on the new leaves. Branching is inhibited when nitrogen is deficient. When nitrogen is deficient, the accumulated sugar in the tissue promotes the synthesis of anthocyanins, so the stems, leaves and petioles often turn purple-red. 2. Phosphorus deficiency Phosphorus has a strong mobility in the plant body and can quickly transfer from old leaves to young shoots and meristems. Therefore, the symptoms of phosphorus deficiency first appear on the old leaves. When flowers are deficient in phosphorus, the leaves are dark green. Due to the accumulation of soluble sugars in phosphorus deficiency, the formation of anthocyanins occurs, and the stems and veins will turn purple. In severe phosphorus deficiency, necrotic areas will appear in various parts of the plant. Phosphorus deficiency will also inhibit the growth of flowers, but not as severe as nitrogen deficiency. However, the inhibition of root growth is greater than nitrogen deficiency. 3. Potassium deficiency Potassium has a high mobility in the plant body. When plants are deficient in potassium, it first appears on old leaves. When potassium is deficient, mottled green areas appear on the leaves, and then necrotic areas appear along the leaf margins and leaf tips, the leaves curl, and finally turn black and burn; the growth of the stems is weakened, and the disease resistance is reduced. 4. Calcium deficiency Since calcium has poor mobility in the plant body, the symptoms of calcium deficiency in plants first appear on new leaves. The typical symptoms of calcium deficiency are necrosis of the leaf tips and leaf margins of young leaves, followed by necrosis of buds, and the root tips will also stop growing, change color and die. 5. The typical symptoms of magnesium deficiency are green between the veins, sometimes bright colors such as red and orange, and small areas of necrosis in severe cases. Since magnesium is easy to flow in the plant body, magnesium deficiency symptoms usually occur on old leaves. Magnesium deficiency is also prone to occur when potassium fertilizers are used in large quantities. 6. Sulfur deficiency The symptoms of sulfur deficiency are similar to those of nitrogen deficiency, such as uniform green and yellowing of leaves, the formation and accumulation of anthocyanins, and inhibited growth. However, sulfur deficiency usually starts from young leaves and is less severe. 7. The typical symptom of iron deficiency is green deficiency. Iron cannot move in the plant body, so iron deficiency first manifests itself in young leaves. The characteristic of iron deficiency is that the veins between the leaves turn yellow while the veins can still remain green, and there is generally no growth inhibition or necrosis. Plants often lack iron in alkaline soil or calcareous calcareous soil because the iron in the soil exists in the form of insoluble iron oxide or iron hydroxide under alkaline conditions. Excessive magnesium in the soil will also affect the absorption of iron. Although iron can be absorbed by plants in the form of Fe3+, it must be reduced to the physiologically active Fe2+ state in the plant body. Manganese is an oxidant. When the manganese/iron ratio is unbalanced, iron will exist in the form of Fe3+ and lose its physiological activity. 8. Zinc deficiency The typical symptoms of zinc deficiency are inhibited internode growth, severe leaf deformity, and suppressed apical dominance, which may be caused by insufficient supply of auxin (IAA), because zinc is necessary for auxin synthesis; old leaf chlorosis is also a common symptom of zinc deficiency. Symptoms of zinc deficiency are more likely to appear in neutral and alkaline soils. In many areas of China, there is a lack of zinc in the soil, which affects crop yields, including plant yields. At the same time, since people in this area have been eating zinc-deficient food for a long time, people's health is generally affected. When applying zinc fertilizer, the problem of zinc and phosphorus antagonism is often encountered. Zinc fertilizer is generally used as foliar topdressing for better results, which can avoid zinc-phosphorus antagonism. The antagonism between elements is shown in Table 1-2. Table 1-2 Antagonism of common nutrient elements - Excessive nutrients cause lack of nutrients - N K K N, Ca, Mg Na K, Ca, Mg Ca Mg Mg Ca Ca B Fe Mn Mn Fe 9. Boron deficiency The typical symptoms of boron deficiency are thickening and darkening of leaves, death of the apical meristem of branches and roots, and stunted development of roots and branches caused by boron deficiency; the development of boron deficiency symptoms is slow, and the effectiveness of boron in the soil is affected by calcium. The high calcium content in the soil can reduce the absorption of boron. The reason may be that calcium causes boron to compound or precipitate in the soil, or reduces the root system's ability to absorb boron. 10. Manganese deficiency The symptoms of manganese deficiency are lack of green leaves and the formation of small necrotic spots on the leaves. It should be noted that it should be distinguished from bacterial spot disease, brown spot disease, etc. The symptoms of manganese deficiency can occur on both young and old leaves. Generally, there is no manganese deficiency in acidic soils, but in soils with a pH value greater than 6.5, manganese deficiency often occurs. In soils with high oxidation states and alkaline soils, manganese can be converted into an invalid state like iron, causing manganese deficiency in plants. When the manganese content is too high or too low, it affects the yield of plants. 11. Copper deficiency The symptoms of copper deficiency are leaf tip necrosis and leaf withering and blackening. The symptoms first appear on young leaves. When excessive phosphorus fertilizer is applied to the soil, copper will become an insoluble precipitate and reduce its effectiveness. The application of copper sulfate to edible plants can increase production and improve disease resistance. 12. Molybdenum deficiency The initial symptoms of molybdenum deficiency are lack of green and necrosis between the veins of old leaves, sometimes in the form of spotted necrosis. Molybdenum deficiency can also cause symptoms of nitrogen deficiency. It is easily absorbed by plants in soils with high pH values.

4. Types of fertilizers 1. Organic fertilizer: Fertilizers containing a large amount of organic matter are called organic fertilizers, also known as farmyard manure. Organic fertilizers contain a large amount of humus and organic matter, which can provide various nutrients for plants; they can improve the effectiveness of insoluble sulfates in the soil and reduce the soil's fixation of phosphorus, which is of great significance for improving loam fertility and improving soil structure. Commonly used organic fertilizers include human feces and urine, livestock feces and urine, poultry manure, bone meal, fish meal, stable manure, compost, green manure, cake fertilizer, peat, plant ash, fallen leaves, weeds, green manure, etc. Organic fertilizers are rich in organic matter, comprehensive in nutrients, and have a long fertilizer effect. It is worth noting that organic fertilizers must be fully decomposed when used. ⑴ Application of compost and composting Compost and composting are made by using plant residues, such as straw, leaves, weeds, plant garbage and other wastes as the main raw materials, adding human feces or livestock feces and urine for stacking and composting. Composting should create aerobic decomposition conditions for microorganisms, and the fermentation temperature is relatively high. Composting is mostly done underwater, mainly anaerobic decomposition, and the fermentation temperature is low. The C/N ratio required for general microbial fermentation is 25:1, which is the most suitable. Different organic matter has different C/N ratios, and an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer needs to be used to adjust it during fermentation. 3 Carbon-nitrogen ratios of different organic matter Plant materials and fertilizers ───Types Carbon-nitrogen ratio (C/N) ───Weeds 25-45:1 Dry straw 67:1 Wood and bark 480:1 Alfalfa and clover 20:1 Milk vetch 10-17.3:1 Sawdust 250:1 High-temperature compost 9.67-10.67:1 General compost 16-20:1 ───Compost and compost contain a high level of organic matter and a complete fertilizer with various nutrients. The fertilizer effect is slow and lasting, and is generally used as a base fertilizer. Long-term application of compost and compost can improve the soil. The amount of composting and fermentation in the nursery is usually 750-1500 kg/mu. Nitrogen in compost is insufficient due to the consumption of microorganisms. It is best to apply quick nitrogen fertilizer after composting. The proportion of various composting materials should be determined according to the purpose of the fertilizer. If it is used as topdressing in the same year, the fertilizer must be quickly decomposed. 50 kg of grass can be used, and 10-15 kg of human feces and urine, 1-2 kg of lime, or 2.5-5 kg ​​of plant ash can be added. (The nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium content of organic fertilizers is shown in Table 1-4). If it is used as the end of the year fertilizer for the next year, first dry the grass for 1-2 days, cut it into 7-10 cm long sections, spread the chopped grass on the bottom of the pit, about 17 cm thick, and then spread mule and horse manure, and water and human feces and urine to cover the grass completely. When the fertilizer ferments and the manure water turns black-green, add a layer of black soil, and then add grass, horse manure and water. In this way, the compost is piled up layer by layer to the ground, and finally water is poured to keep the surface of the pit with 3cm of water. In autumn, the fermented fertilizer is brought to the ground, turned over and piled into a steamed bun-shaped pile. The maturity of compost is the result of microbial activity. The external conditions that affect the activity of microorganisms include moisture, air, temperature, the carbon-nitrogen ratio (C/N) of the compost material, and the pH value of the environmental conditions in which the microorganisms live. As long as the conditions required for microbial activity are met, the compost can be mature. Before composting, the plant residues need to be soaked to absorb water. Moisture is very important in the composting process. Usually, the moisture content is 60-70% of the dry material, which is conducive to the life of microorganisms in the pile and the softening of organic materials. It can also promote the uniform maturity of the compost from top to bottom. Usually, if water drops are squeezed out of the material when holding it tightly with your hands, it means that the moisture content is appropriate. If the ventilation in the compost pile is good, the aerobic microorganisms will be active. It is conducive to the maturation of microbial composting; when the ventilation conditions are poor, the anaerobic microorganisms are active, the organic matter decomposes slowly, the effective nutrients are released less, and the compost matures for a long time, but it is conducive to the formation and accumulation of humus. Therefore, the two can be combined; the early stage of composting is mainly based on good air, so that the compost decomposes quickly and releases nutrients, while the middle and late stage composting is in a state of air stagnation, Taobao women's spring clothing to preserve the released nutrients and promote the accumulation of humus. The method is: in the early stage of composting, the compost can be ventilated by setting up ventilation towers, ventilation trenches or using loose stacking methods. When the compost is mature, the compost collapses naturally, and then the sealing mud is pressed and the ventilation tower and other facilities are removed to reduce the air circulation of the fertilizer pile. During the composting process, the temperature in the pile changes with the decomposition of organic matter, from low temperature, medium temperature to high temperature. The temperature required by high-temperature fiber-decomposing bacteria is 50-60℃, which is a thermophilic microorganism. When composting in winter, you can add an appropriate amount of horse manure to the compost material, and use the heat generated by the high-temperature fiber decomposition bacteria to increase the compost temperature, or use mud to seal the surface of the compost to reduce heat and speed up the composting. Microbial activity requires carbon as energy and nitrogen as a material for building cells. The activity and reproduction of microorganisms require a certain ratio (C/N) of carbon and nitrogen, which is generally less than 25:1. If the carbon-nitrogen ratio in composting is greater than 25:1, microorganisms cannot reproduce in large quantities, organic residues decompose slowly, and microorganisms will absorb inorganic nitrogen from the external environment. If the carbon-nitrogen ratio of organic matter is less than 25:1, microorganisms reproduce quickly and organic residues decompose slowly. In order to accelerate the activity of microorganisms and promote the maturity of compost, dung or other nitrogen fertilizers can be added to the compost to adjust the carbon-nitrogen ratio required by microorganisms. During the composting process, the decomposition of organic matter will produce a large amount of organic acid, which will make the environment acidic and affect the life activities of microorganisms. Because microorganisms are generally suitable for living in a neutral or slightly acidic environment, alkaline substances such as lime or wood ash, calcareous soil, etc. should be appropriately added to the compost to adjust the pH value of the compost. There are two types of composting: ordinary composting and high-temperature composting. The former has a low fermentation temperature, while the latter requires high-temperature fermentation.
First, ordinary composting: suitable for areas or seasons with high temperatures and heavy rainfall. Composting should be done in a flat area close to a water source. The width of the pile is 2 meters, the highest is 1.5 to 2 meters, and the length of the pile depends on the amount of materials. Before stacking, compact and level the ground, spread a layer of turf soil or peat to absorb the infiltrated fertilizer liquid, and then evenly spread dead branches, fallen leaves, weeds, garbage, etc., and sprinkle human and animal feces, urine, and sewage. Each layer is about 15 to 26 cm thick, and a layer of fine soil or river mud is covered on the top of the pile to reduce water evaporation and ammonia volatilization. Stack for about 1 month, turn it over once, and add water appropriately. In summer, it is hot and rainy. The composting should be turned over once for about 2 months. In winter, it takes 3 to 4 months to be decomposed. Second, high-temperature composting. High-temperature composting is a major method for harmless treatment of organic matter. After high-temperature treatment, human feces, fallen leaves, weeds, mixed dead plants, various straws, etc. can eliminate pathogens, insect eggs and grass seeds lurking in them. It is beneficial to environmental hygiene and the health of people and animals. In order to speed up the decomposition of weeds, leaves, etc., the temperature of the compost pile is increased. Horse manure must be added to high-temperature composting, and the thermophilic high-temperature fiber-decomposing bacteria in horse manure are used to promote the decomposition of plant residues. If the high-temperature composting adopts a semi-pit type, it will be decomposed quickly and fully, and the nutrient loss is small. The method is: choose a place that is shaded, dry and close to a water source as a fertilizer field. Dig a pit on the ground. If the plant material is calculated as 0.5 tons, the pit is 1 meter deep, and the excavated soil is surrounded by the pit to form a circle of earth ridges. The bottom of the pit is flattened, and a cross ditch is dug. The depth and width of the ditch are both 20cm. The two ends of the ditch are dug upward along the edge, and the earth ridge is dug straight out. The outside outlet is trumpet-shaped. Two layers of short branches are laid vertically and horizontally on the bottom of the pit, and several straws or branches are erected in the ditch beside the pit to serve as ventilation towers. Then plant materials are laid and stepped on tightly, and a layer of fine soil is added, lime water is poured, horse manure is sprinkled once, and then human feces and urine are poured. Then the materials are laid again, and the layers are piled up to about 30cm above the pit surface, and a layer of soil is covered on top, about 3cm thick, so that the fertilizer pile is in the shape of a steamed bun. After 1 to 2 days, it is fully ventilated, and finally the river mud, pond mud, etc. are used to cap the top. The above two types of composting are traditional fertilizer making methods for crop fertilizers. They are characterized by rich and comprehensive nutrient content. High-temperature composting has a bactericidal and insecticidal effect. The production of culture soil and leaf humus commonly used in flower production is rich and similar to composting. They also use plant materials such as fallen leaves and flowers, and pour human feces to promote the decomposition of plant residues. The difference is that a considerable amount of garden soil must be added to the leaf humus, which takes a long time to decompose. There is no high-temperature fermentation process, which cannot kill insects and sterilize, and often causes bacteria and insect eggs to lurk in the culture soil or leaf humus, causing new plants to be infected with viruses or breed pests. ⑵ Application of mud fertilizer The fertile silt in rivers, ponds, ditches, and lakes is collectively called mud fertilizer. It is composed of surface fine soil, dirt, dead branches and leaves brought by wind and rain, etc., which are collected at the bottom of rivers, ditches, ponds, and lakes, plus the excrement and remains of aquatic animals, and the remains of aquatic plants. These substances are decomposed by anaerobic microorganisms for a long time to form mud fertilizer. Different mud fertilizers have different fertilizer effects. If the silt water surface is black-green and smelly, and the silt has many honeycomb holes, and the traces of plant stems and leaves cannot be seen clearly, the fertilizer effect of the lighter volume is high; on the contrary, if the water surface is clear, the dug mud is grayish white, the structure is tight, and the fertilizer effect of the one without honeycomb holes is poor (see Table 1-5). Mud fertilizer is a cool fertilizer with a long and stable fertilizer effect. In order to quickly transform the nutrients in the mud fertilizer and eliminate the reductive toxic substances produced by long-term flooding and anaerobic conditions, it should be spread out before fertilization, dried for a period of time, and then crushed and applied. Nurseries use a large amount of mud fertilizer as base fertilizer. It not only provides nutrients for seedlings, but also thickens the soil tillage layer and improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil. The effect of using mud fertilizer to prepare culture soil for planting flowers is good. First spread the mud fertilizer in the open field, cut it into 1 cm mud blocks after it is slightly dried, and mix it with about 1/5 of rice husk ash. Use this soil to plant white jasmine, jasmine, etc., and the leaves will be lush and the flowers will be bright. Table 1-5 The nutrient contents of several mud fertilizers are as follows: Project Ditch Mud Lake Mud River Mud Pond Mud Average organic matter (%) 9.37, 4.46, 5.28, 2.45, 5.09 Total nitrogen (N, %) 0.44, 0.40, 0.29, 0.20, 0.38 Total phosphorus (P2O5, %) 0.49, 0.56, 0.36, 0.16, 0.34 Total potassium (K2O), %) 0.56, 1.83, 1.82, 1.00, 1.62 Ammonium nitrogen (NH4-N, ppm) 100—1.25273203 Nitrate nitrogen (NO3-N, ppm)—251.4611 Available phosphorus (P, ppm) 30182.89757 Quick-acting potassium (K, ppm) 5517.5245193⑶ Peat and humic acid fertilizer Peat not only has a strong adsorption capacity, but also the humate extracted from peat has a stimulating effect on plant growth. Therefore, the use of peat is multifaceted (see Table 1-6). First, as livestock bedding material: using peat as livestock bedding can not only absorb livestock feces and urine, but also absorb the gas (ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide) produced when livestock feces decompose. It not only avoids fertilizer loss, but also keeps the environment clean. Experiments have shown that 1 ton of manure with peat bedding. Second, making peat sludge fertilizer: The former Soviet Union used two types of peat (high and low) mixed with sludge precipitated from urban sewage (weight 1:1), and then added different amounts of mineral fertilizers to make peat sludge fertilizer. The results show that peat sludge mixed fertilizer is weakly acidic, rich in fusible nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and is especially suitable for lawn cultivation. Third, making peat fertilizer: The Soviet Union developed a peat fertilizer made of peat as the main component (100 parts) with 0.2-0.3 parts of lime, 0.1-0.2 parts of microbial culture medium, and 0.05-0.1 parts of nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which is easy to apply. Fourth, making peat paper: Using the difference in decomposition to combine peat fiber with a binder to make peat paper, fertilizers and other chemical additives can also be added. Peat paper mixed with grass seeds can be laid on the land around new buildings to form lawns and other ground covers. Fifth, making compost: The Federal Republic of Germany mixed peat, lignite powder, coniferous bark, waste substrate for mushroom cultivation, asbestos and soil, and fermented them for 7-14 days to make fertilizer suitable for planting garden ornamental plants. Sixth, using peat as greenhouse soil: Using fresh peat (high-level peat) to add nutrients can be used as greenhouse soil to cultivate plants. Seventh, making flower culture soil: Because peat has a strong adsorption capacity, in recent years, many foreign regions have used peat to make flower nutrient soil. Eighth, make peat nutrient pots: Use peat with a medium degree of decomposition to make nutrient pots, which are easy to manage, transport and carry. In addition, according to the looseness of the peat and the sediment content, a small amount of silt can be added as a binder, or sawdust and sand can be added as a loosening agent when making the nutrient pots. After the ingredients are fully mixed, the peat nutrient pots are made by hand or machine. Because the peat is loose and tight, the roots of flowers and seedlings planted in the peat nutrient pots grow well. When planting plants or other acid-loving flowers, an appropriate amount of ferrous sulfate can be added to the nutrient pots to adjust the pH value. Humic acid fertilizer Humic acid fertilizer is a variety of humic acid salts made by adding alkali and acid precipitation using peat lignite, weathered coal, etc. rich in humus as the main raw materials. The main humic acid fertilizers are: ammonium humate, nitrohumic acid, humic acid nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers. Table 1-6 Peat and other fertilizer formula Peat (semi-dry) 60-80% Decomposed manure 10-20% Superphosphate 0.1-0.4% Ammonium sulfate 0.1-0.2% Plant ash 1-2% Peat, urea, superphosphate, potassium chloride are used as raw materials through drying, crushing, metering, mixing, granulation, screening and packaging processes to produce humic acid nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium granular fertilizer. It not only contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, but also contains humic acid substances. It is a long-acting slow compound fertilizer. Humic acid fertilizer produced by humic acid fertilizer has achieved good results in early chrysanthemum production, and is particularly suitable for soils with high salinization. Various humic fertilizers developed in the past few years have also been tested and have certain fertilizer effects. Taoranting Park has used humic acid fertilizer on early chrysanthemums for two consecutive years. Compared with the control, the early chrysanthemums applied with humic fertilizer have many roots and their leaves are obviously thicker and greener. It is also reported that the product of humic acid fertilizer, fulvic acid diamine, is more effective than ferrous sulfate in preventing and controlling chlorosis. 2. Inorganic fertilizer Inorganic fertilizer is also called chemical fertilizer. Compared with organic fertilizer, chemical fertilizer has high nutrient content, simple composition, easy to dissolve in water, fast and short fertilizer effect, and acid-base reaction. Long-term use of chemical fertilizer will have adverse effects on soil such as compaction and salinization. According to the main nutrients it contains, chemical fertilizers are often divided into: ⑴ Nitrogen fertilizer: including ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium chloride, urea, etc. ⑵ Phosphorus fertilizer: superphosphate, phosphate rock powder, etc. ⑶ Potassium fertilizer: potassium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, etc. ⑷ Compound fertilizer: three elements, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. ⑸ Trace element fertilizer (micro fertilizer): copper, zinc, manganese, molybdenum, boron, iron, etc. ⑹ Bacterial fertilizer: rhizobia, phosphating bacteria, potassium bacteria and other flowers require a lot of nutrients for growth and development, and these nutrients are mainly absorbed by the roots from the soil. If the required nutrients cannot be replenished in time, it will affect the growth and yield. Studies have shown that the yield per unit area is proportional to the amount of fertilizer applied. Only through fertilization can the nutrient needs of flowers in different growth periods be met.
V. Fertilization Methods 1. Base fertilizer: (base fertilizer) mainly organic fertilizer combined with slow-release inorganic fertilizer, applied to the soil during land preparation. When using organic fertilizer, it must be fully decomposed, and "raw manure" cannot be used, because raw manure can easily damage the root system of seedlings due to fermentation and heat generation. At the same time, raw manure contains a large number of bacteria and pest eggs, which can easily cause diseases and pests. Generally, organic fertilizer is mainly used, with an amount of 3,000 to 10,000 kilograms, and then combined with a certain amount of inorganic fertilizer. It is particularly important to apply organic fertilizer to sandy and heavy clay land. 2. Seed fertilizer: Sprinkle fertilizer near the seeds when sowing and raising seedlings. Generally, quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer is used as the main fertilizer. Seed fertilizer not only provides nutrients for seedlings, but also improves the germination rate of the field. ① Seedlings are very sensitive to phosphorus fertilizers during the seedling stage. If phosphorus is lacking during the seedling stage, the growth of seedlings will be seriously affected. Because phosphorus has poor mobility in the soil and is easily fixed. Applying seed fertilizer close to the root system of the seedlings is conducive to root absorption and growth. ② Use base fertilizer and seed fertilizer together, fertilize in layers, and seedlings can use fertilizers in layers. ③ The contact area between phosphate fertilizer granules and soil is small, which can reduce soil fixation and increase fertilizer efficiency by 25-100%. ④ Granular fertilizers have good physical properties, which are conducive to seed germination and the growth of seedling roots and aboveground parts. 3. Topdressing: Fertilizers applied during the growth period of plants to supplement certain nutrients in the soil. There are two types of soil topdressing and foliar topdressing. The principle of foliar topdressing is that the leaves of plants have stomata, lenticels and water pores, etc., and small molecules can pass through, such as urea, and can directly enter the leaves for absorption and utilization. ① Soil topdressing: Use quick-acting fertilizers, generally nitrogen fertilizers, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in the later stage. Common methods of topdressing include: broadcasting, irrigation, hole application, furrow application, etc. Generally 3 to 5 times a year. The end of topdressing should not be too late, especially the late topdressing of nitrogen fertilizer will easily cause the seedlings to grow too long and reduce their cold resistance. ② Foliar topdressing: During the growth period of seedlings, the quick-acting fertilizer is prepared into a diluted solution and applied to the above-ground part of the seedlings, mainly on the leaves. This method is mainly used when the root absorption capacity is poor and the soil conditions are not good, and when the seedlings need to be supplemented with trace elements in time. It is generally used 3 to 4 times. Foliar topdressing is often used in large-scale production of flowers because it has the following characteristics: Foliar topdressing can reduce soil fixation and leaching, and the exchangeable Fe3+ and Al3+ ions in the soil fix phosphorus; Foliar topdressing has a fast fertilizer effect and can provide the nutrients needed by the seedlings in time. It starts to absorb about 20 to 30 minutes after spraying, and can absorb more than 50% in 24 hours, and can be fully absorbed in 2 to 5 days. Fertilizers applied to the soil will take 7 to 10 days to be absorbed; it is conducive to being absorbed and utilized by plants, saving fertilizers, less fertilizer loss, and high utilization rate. For example, 50 ml of urea foliar fertilization for plant seedlings is better than 150 ml of soil fertilization, saving 2/3 of fertilizers; it can strictly supply nutrients according to the needs of growth and development; it can increase the yield of seedlings and improve commodity quality. 4. Technical points of foliar fertilization: ① The concentration of fertilizers should be appropriate: the general concentration of micro-fertilizers is 0.1-0.2%; the concentration of chemical fertilizers is 0.2-0.5%, such as urea concentration of 0.5%; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.1-0.3%; superphosphate 1-5% (take the supernatant). Ferrous sulfate 0.1-0.5%, spraying 0.5-0.5% ferrous sulfate during the growth period can make the leaves dark green and bright. According to Japanese research, the concentration of chemical fertilizers applied to plants is preferably 25-60ppm nitrogen, 4-6ppm phosphorus, and 25-50ppm potassium; nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped during the budding period, and 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be used for foliar fertilization. ② Foliar topdressing should be carried out when the temperature is low, the air humidity is high, and there is no wind in the morning or evening. Otherwise, it will not work. ③ The spray should be even, and both the leaf surface and the back of the leaf should be sprayed. The amount of spray liquid should not make the solution on the leaves flow down. ④ The concentration should be accurate. A blank test should be performed before topdressing in order to accurately prepare the concentration of the fertilizer solution. ⑤ It can be mixed with fungicides, insecticides, herbicides, etc. Before mixing the agents, the properties of fertilizers and other pesticides should be analyzed. It is not suitable to mix them when the efficacy is reduced or precipitation occurs after mixing. ⑥ Prepare the solution first, filter out the impurities and then use it. In order to increase the surface tension during application, a small amount of surfactant such as washing powder can be added.
(VI) Formula fertilization and calculation of fertilizer amount Formula fertilization means to apply fertilizer reasonably according to the fertilizer requirements of flowers at different stages of growth and development. The amount of fertilizer applied is generally based on the fertilizer supply capacity of the soil (or substrate) to supplement the deficiencies required by flowers. The amount of fertilizer applied to flowers is often calculated according to the following formula: A=(B-C)/D Where: A—the amount of a certain element applied (kg) B—the amount of fertilizer required by a certain flower (kg) C—the amount of fertilizer absorbed by the flower from the soil or substrate (kg) D—fertilizer utilization rate (%) The utilization rate of inorganic fertilizer for flowers is generally 45-60%, generally calculated as 50%; P is 10-25%; K is 50%. The utilization rate of compost: N is 20-30%; P is 10-15%; K is 40-45%. The amount of fertilizer applied can be estimated based on the nutrient content in the flowers and the utilization rate of fertilizer. For example, the fresh weight of a plant is 100g, and 10% is the dry weight. The contents of N, P, and K are 4%, 0.5%, and 2%, respectively, that is, 0.4g, 0.05g, and 0.2g respectively. Since part of the fertilizer applied to the soil is lost due to irrigation, and the other part is fixed by the soil and remains in the soil, the nutrients in the fertilizer cannot be fully absorbed by the plant. Assuming that the utilization rate of fertilizer by plants is 20%, 10%, and 20%, respectively, the amount of the three elements that should be applied to the soil is 2g, 0.5g, and 1g, respectively. Convert these values ​​into corresponding chemical fertilizers, namely 10g of ammonium sulfate, 2.5g of superphosphate, and 1.7g of potassium sulfate. These fertilizers can be applied in stages during the growth period. The composition of various fertilizers in potted soil is suitable for about 0.1 to 0.5g per liter of soil. The amount of fertilizer applied each time varies with the number of fertilizations. The principle of "thin fertilizer and frequent application" should be advocated, and concentrated fertilizer should not be applied. Because concentrated fertilizer will increase the osmotic pressure of soil solution, affecting the absorption of water by plants. At the same time, when the content of individual ions in the soil solution is too high, antagonism between ions will occur, hindering the absorption of required ions, and in severe cases, causing the death of plants.
VII) The following issues should be noted when fertilizing flowers: 1. Base fertilizer and topdressing should be used in combination. Generally, the amount of organic fertilizer used is 3000-~0000 kg, and a certain amount of inorganic fertilizer is used. It is particularly important to apply organic fertilizer to sandy and heavy clay land. 2. N, P, and K are used in combination, generally based on P, N is 1-4 times of P, and K is 1/2-1 times of P. The ratio of N, P and K varies with the type of flowers. Generally, N:P:K＝1-4:1-3:0.5-1. For one-year seedlings: maple poplar seedlings are 4:1:1; Masson pine: 3:1:1; Pinus tabulaeformis: 4:3:1; Fraxinus chinensis seedlings: 3:1:1; Flowering plants: N:P:K=4:3:2; Fruiting plants: N:P:K=2:4:3; Foliage plants: 2:1:1; Bulbous plants: N:P:K=1:2:3; Seedling fertilizer NPK=9-45-15; General type: NPK=15-15-15, such as hydrangea, geranium, etc. (PH=5-6), 34PPM, once every 10 days, and lily, begonia (PH=5-6), 17PPM, once every 7-10 days, and azalea uses NPK=15-45-5, PH5-6. Carnation, plant, when the light is insufficient, NPK: 15-0 -15 Orchid special fertilizer is difficult N-P-K as follows: 30-10-10 (fir bark is used as potting soil, which requires a large amount of N) 18-18-18 (general type) 10-30-20 (flower-promoting fertilizer) Generally 100-150PPM, once a week. 3. Foliar topdressing should be applied in small amounts and multiple times to avoid fertilizer damage 4. Different fertilizers and different amounts should be used according to different plants and different growth periods. For example: stem and leaf N, flowering P, winter K, such as, the ratio of nitrogen fertilizer in the seedling stage can be slightly larger, N:K =4:3:2, from the beginning of flower bud differentiation, it is necessary to avoid the use of nitrogen fertilizer, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be used for foliar topdressing, 100ppm, once a week, until flowering. 5. Fertilizer damage (fertilizer injury) and prevention: The use of raw manure or excessive fertilizer at one time and improper fertilization methods can easily cause adverse effects on the growth and development of flowers, which is called fertilizer damage or fertilizer injury in flower production. The following points should be noted in the prevention of fertilizer damage: ① Organic fertilizer should be fully decomposed; ② Fertilizer application site, avoid applying it to the root nest, and apply it along the edge of the pot; ③ Potted flowers should be watered every other day after fertilization to "return water"; ④ Avoid using too much fertilizer at one time. Generally, the concentration of foliar topdressing must be thin, about 100ppm is appropriate.
(VIII) Automated fertilization and formula fertilization The emergence of automated irrigation has provided convenience for formula fertilization. This is a technology commonly used abroad. The method is to prepare easily soluble fertilizers into concentrated solutions, and then pass this concentrated solution through an injector and enter the greenhouse water pipe according to the concentration ratio required by the flowers. Injectors are available in different proportions and specifications. For example, a 1:1000 injector means that 1 liter of mother liquor is mixed with 100 liters of irrigation water; a 1:200 injector means that 1 liter of mother liquor is mixed with 200 liters of water. The liquid fertilizer passing through the injector must be completely dissolved or filtered in advance, otherwise the injector is prone to blockage. The mother liquor must be prepared correctly. When using an automatic injector, substances such as calcium nitrate should not be placed in the same concentration barrel with magnesium phosphate, because such substances will produce precipitation. Trace elements such as boric acid or borax must be dissolved in boiling water before adding them to the concentration barrel. In addition, the water quality should also be analyzed. If the water already contains calcium and magnesium, then there is no need to add such substances. Water with a high carbonate content will cause precipitation in the irrigation system. In this case, nitric acid can be used to neutralize it, and 103-300ml of HNO3 can be added to 200 liters of mother liquor.
(IX) Main means of controlling fertilization: There are many means and methods for controlling fertilization, which are more commonly used abroad. For example: plant diagnosis: pH value analysis; conductivity measurement; soil analysis; plant tissue analysis, etc. In some cases, it is difficult to determine with only one method, so when using these methods, you must understand and master their scope and limitations. 1. Plant diagnosis: Plant diagnosis is the most commonly used method. For a strict and careful grower, the appearance of the crop is the best explanation. Therefore, observation ability is usually an important difference between a planting expert and a general grower. However, planting observation ability requires long-term and repeated practice, and you must be very familiar with the growth laws of crops before you can improve. For example, the symptoms of nitrogen deficiency and excessive salt poisoning; pesticide damage and iron deficiency symptoms; trace element deficiency and herbicide damage; damage caused by certain insects; fungal diseases and nutritional disorders are all easily confused. In these cases, it is necessary to use the above other methods to determine. Usually, it is reliable to combine plant body analysis and nutrient element analysis in the matrix. 2. Conductivity analysis: It uses the principle that when the salt concentration increases, the general conductivity (EC) value also increases to determine the salt concentration of the trial soil, expressed in mmho/cm. Conductivity is the total amount of various ions in the medium. There is a high correlation between it and nitrate nitrogen. Therefore, the EC value can be used to infer the nitrogen content in the soil, and thus serve as a reference for whether nitrogen fertilizer needs to be applied. EC values ​​vary for different flower species and different growth periods. According to Japanese reports, the EC value for plants is 0.5-0.7, for other flowers such as carnations it is 0.5-1.0, and for roses it is 0.4-0.8 mmho/cm, which is more suitable, see Table 1-7. Table 1-7 Description of soluble salt levels Soil: Water (mho/cm×10-5) Description (1:2) 1:50-250-100-1 Nutritional deficiency 26-50 11-25 1-2 Lack of fertilizer, fertilize every time you water 100 50 3-5 Maximum limit for seedlings and cuttings 51-125 26-60 2-4 Beneficial to most flowers 126-175 61-80 4-8 Beneficial to healthy plants 176-200 8 1- 100 8-16 Dangerous range 7200 7100 716 Usually harmful The determination of the EC value is relatively simple, but there are many ways to prepare the sample. Therefore, when determining, you must know how the test solution is prepared in order to interpret the results obtained under certain conditions. 3. Soil and plant tissue analysis: The nutrients in the soil and plant tissues are controlled by fertilization. Soil and plant analysis can complement each other. Soil analysis can provide information about the nutrient content, salt content, pH value, etc. of plants throughout their growth period. These>

Cultivation and management technology of flowers (IV)
Finally, the flowering period regulation technology of flowers is introduced
. The flowering period regulation technology is also called the delay of flowering period. There have been flowering period regulation technology since ancient times, and there are records of "flowers blooming out of season".
1. Ways to regulate flowering period People use various cultivation techniques to make flowers bloom at regular times according to people's wishes outside the natural flowering period, which is the so-called "promoting hundreds of flowers in a moment and gathering four seasons in one time". Those whose flowering period is earlier than the natural flowering period are called forcing cultivation, and those whose flowering period is delayed than the natural flowering period are called inhibiting cultivation. The main ways to regulate flowering period are: 1. Temperature treatment: The role of temperature mainly has the following aspects: ① Breaking dormancy: increasing the activity of dormant embryos or growth points, breaking the spontaneous dormancy of vegetative buds, and making them germinate and grow. ② Spring flower effect: At a certain stage of the life period of flowers, under certain low temperature conditions, after a certain period of time, the spring flower stage can be completed, so that flower bud differentiation can proceed. ③ Flower bud differentiation: Flower bud differentiation of flowers requires a certain temperature range. Only within this temperature range can flower bud differentiation proceed smoothly. The suitable temperature for different flowers is different. ④ Flower bud development: After flower bud differentiation is completed, some flowers enter a dormant state. Necessary temperature treatment is required to break dormancy and bloom. Flower bud differentiation and flower bud development require different temperature conditions. ⑤ Influence on the elongation of flower stems: The flower stems of some flowers need a certain low temperature treatment before they can elongate and grow at a higher temperature, such as hyacinth, tulip, Clivia, daffodil, etc. There are also some flowers that require low temperature for spring flowering, which is also necessary for the elongation of flower stems, such as freesia, bulbous iris, musk lily, etc. It can be seen that temperature plays a decisive role in breaking dormancy, spring flowering, flower bud differentiation, flower bud development, and flower stem elongation. Therefore, taking appropriate temperature treatment can break dormancy in advance, form flower buds, accelerate flower bud development, and bloom early. On the contrary, it can delay flowering. Light treatment: For long-day and short-day flowers, the sunshine time can be artificially controlled to bloom earlier, or delay the differentiation or development of flower buds, and adjust the flowering period. 3. Chemical treatment: It is mainly used to break the dormancy of bulbous flowers and flowers and trees, and bloom earlier. Commonly used chemicals are mainly gibberellins (GA) chemicals. 4. Cultivation measures treatment: By adjusting the propagation period or planting period, taking measures such as pruning, pinching, fertilizing and controlling water, the flowering period can be effectively adjusted.

2. Methods for regulating the flowering period The flowering period can be regulated by the above four main ways of promoting and inhibiting the cultivation of flowers, in order to ensure the smooth progress of regulating the flowering period. 1. Preparation before treatment. 1. Selection of flower types and varieties: According to the time of using flowers, first of all, appropriate flower types and varieties should be selected. On the one hand, the selected flowers should fully meet the needs of the market, and on the other hand, flower types that are easy to bloom during the time of using flowers and do not require too much complicated treatment should be selected to save time and reduce costs. Different varieties of the same flower have different reactions to treatment, and even vary greatly. For example, the early-flowering variety "Nanyang Dabai" of chrysanthemum blooms after short-day treatment for 50 days; while the late-flowering variety "Fo Jianxiao" needs to be treated for 65 to 70 days before it can bloom. In order to bloom early, early-flowering varieties should be selected, and if the flowering is delayed, late-flowering varieties should be selected. 2. Maturity of bulbs: To promote cultivation of bulbous flowers, it is necessary to promote the early maturity of bulbs. The maturity of bulbs has a great influence on the effect of forced cultivation. Bulbs with low maturity will not be able to achieve good results. The quality of flowering will decline, and even the bulbs will not germinate and take root. 3. Plant or bulb size: Choose plants or bulbs that are strong and can bloom. According to the requirements of commodity quality, plants and bulbs must reach a certain size, and the quality of flowers can be guaranteed after treatment. If plants that have not grown fully are used for treatment, the quality of flowers will be reduced and cannot meet the needs of flower applications. Some perennial flowers need to reach a certain age before they can bloom. When treating, choose plants that have reached the flowering age. For example, the bulbs of tulips must reach more than 12 grams and the diameter of hyacinth bulbs must reach more than 8 cm before they can bloom.

4. Treatment equipment and cultivation technology: There must be perfect treatment equipment such as temperature control equipment, supplementary light equipment and light control equipment. Fine cultivation management is also very necessary. ㈡ Temperature treatment: 1. The following issues should be paid attention to in the temperature treatment of flowers: ① Different varieties of the same flower also have different temperature sensitivity; ② The treatment temperature is mostly different depending on the climatic conditions of the origin or breeding place of the variety. Temperature treatment generally takes 20℃ or above as high temperature, 15-20℃ as medium temperature, and 10℃ or below as low temperature; ③ The treatment temperature also varies depending on the climatic conditions of the cultivation site, the harvest period, the length of time from listing, the size of the bulbs, etc. ④ The appropriate period of temperature treatment, such as whether to treat during the growth period or during the dormancy period, varies depending on the type and variety characteristics of the flowers. ⑤ The effect of temperature treatment varies depending on the type of flowers and the number of days of treatment. ⑥ The flowering control of many kinds of flowers requires the comprehensive treatment of temperature and light at the same time, or several treatment measures are used in the process of treatment to achieve the expected effect. ⑦ The cultivation management during or after the treatment has a great influence on the effect of flowering control. 2. Temperature treatment during dormancy: ⑴ Tulip (Tulipa gesneriana): In June, the temperature gradually rises, and the aboveground part of the tulip gradually turns yellow. When more than 1/3 of the leaves turn yellow, it is the right time to harvest. After harvesting, the bulbs should be dried slowly and naturally. The temperature should not exceed 35℃. Generally, they are dried at 35℃ for 3 days; dried at 30℃ for 15 days, and then treated at 20℃ and 60% relative humidity to promote flower bud differentiation. 20℃ is the suitable temperature for tulip flower bud differentiation. It is treated for about 20 to 25 days, and then treated at 8℃ for 50 to 60 days to promote flower bud development; then use 10 to 15℃ for rooting treatment, and plant when roots are pulled out. It is also possible to avoid high-temperature drying treatment. In an airy place at 20°C, the flower buds can be differentiated while drying. From the stage of external stamen formation, the flower buds can be treated at 8°C for a long time to promote the development of flower buds. When the root crown appears, the rooting can be promoted at 15°C. Then, at 15-20°C, the flower can bloom in 60 days. This method has a slow development of flower buds and early root activity, and the flowering is better. Early-flowering varieties of the Darwin system are often used for forcing cultivation of tulips. ⑵ Gladiolus hybrida: Generally, it is placed in a cold storage at 3-5°C in mid-March to inhibit the germination and rooting of the bulbs. It can be taken out on time and planted for a certain period of time according to the time of use. Usually, early-flowering varieties can bloom about 75 days after planting. ⑶ Lilium longflora: When used for cut flower production, the bulbs are stored in refrigerated equipment and planted in batches, which can provide flowers all year round. The temperature treatment of black-stalked lily is to place it in a cold room for dormancy after harvesting, and to carry out rooting treatment at 15℃ in early September. It will start to grow roots after 2 to 3 weeks. Then, it will be placed at a low temperature of 0 to 3℃ for spring flower treatment and transplanted 45 days later, which can bloom early. The temperature treatment of lily bulbs should pay attention to the bulbs used for forcing cultivation. Before the rooting treatment, it should be subjected to a period of high temperature after-ripening treatment at a temperature of 30℃. The bulbs need to be refrigerated after the rooting treatment. If the rooting treatment is not carried out and the refrigeration treatment is carried out directly, some of the bulbs will not grow roots, and the number can reach about 50%. In addition, lilies are skinless bulbs and are not resistant to dryness. During the storage of the bulbs, the appropriate humidity should be maintained at all times. Generally, the bulbs are placed in boxes, and the gaps are moisturized with wet sphagnum moss. (4) Freesia (Frisia refracta): Select early-flowering varieties for forcing cultivation. After the bulbs are harvested and dried, they are stored. When the temperature is treated, they are treated at 30℃ for 40-60 days to break dormancy, and then at 10℃ for 30-35 days. The humidity is kept at about 90% to meet the temperature requirements of spring flowering, flower bud differentiation, and flower stem elongation. Then they are planted. The cultivation temperature is preferably 15-20℃. If the temperature after planting is higher than 20℃, the spring flowering effect will be eliminated, the flower bud differentiation will be poor, and deformed flowers will appear, which will greatly reduce the quality of the flowers. ⑸ Lily of the valley (Convalaria majalis): At the end of October, it is treated at 0.5℃ for 3 weeks, and then cultivated at a high temperature of 23℃. It blooms in mid-December. It takes about 50 days from treatment to flowering. If the pillars are placed in a 0℃ cold storage for 50 days in mid-September, the effect will be better, and the flowers will be luxuriant and neat. 3. Temperature treatment during the growth period: If low temperature treatment is carried out immediately after the seeds germinate, there are very few flowers that have vernalization effects, such as Centaurea cyanus, Consolida ajacis, and Lupainus polyphyllus. When the plant's vegetative growth reaches a certain level, low temperature treatment can promote flower bud differentiation in many flower species, such as Matthiola incana, Primula malacoides, Senecio cruentus, Freesia refracta, Dendrobium spp., and Agyranthemum frutescens. In places with high temperatures in summer and autumn, the stems of these flowers do not elongate, and the leaves are in a rosette shape. If they are treated with low temperature during this period, flower buds will form, and the stems will also grow vigorously.

In traditional flower production, the method of adjusting the sowing period is often used to make full use of natural low temperature or temperature differences in the cultivation site, and to carry out off-site cultivation. This can greatly save management costs, reduce costs, and facilitate mass production. (1) Violet: There are also certain differences in the temperature sensitivity of violet varieties. Winter flower types, intermediate types and other cut flower varieties are treated with temperature when the true leaves are about 10: ① Violet flower bud differentiation or vernalization treatment, only when the daytime temperature is below 15.6℃ can it bloom, and when it is above 18.3℃, it cannot bloom at any time; ② At temperatures above 15.6℃, the extension growth of the plant is inhibited; ③ Temperature treatment above 15.6℃ will cause morphological changes in the leaves of the plant, such as serrated or wavy deformities on the leaf edges. In the regulation of the flowering period of violets, it should be noted that it is not easy to resume growth after transplanting large seedlings. It is advisable to plant when there are 2 to 5 true leaves, and try to minimize root damage. ⑵ Freesia: Rooting is promoted at 15-18℃. When the plant has 5-6 leaves and a height of 25cm, a low temperature treatment of 10-13℃ is applied. This can promote the differentiation of flower buds and create conditions for the elongation of flower stems. Then, the plant is placed in a greenhouse to promote the development of flower buds and flowering. Alternatively, the plant can be cultivated in a different place. First, the plant is allowed to grow and differentiate flower buds in a cool place, and then moved to a warm place or greenhouse to promote the development of flower buds and flowering. ⑶ Primula: At a low temperature of 10℃, flower bud differentiation can be carried out in long-day or short-day conditions. Flower bud differentiation is better if short-day treatment is applied at the same time. After flower bud differentiation, the temperature is maintained at around 15℃, and long-day treatment is applied. This can promote the development of flower buds and early flowering. Primula obconica has similar habits, but not as obvious as Primula. ⑷ Peony (Paeonia lactiflra): Usually natural low temperature treatment is used. It enters the greenhouse after December and blooms after February. It can also be treated with low temperature of 0-2℃ in early September. Early flowering varieties take 25-30 days, late flowering varieties take 40-50 days, and then treat at 15℃ for 60-70 days to bloom. ⑸ Chrysanthemum (Dendranthema morifolium): Under short-day conditions and no low temperature, the leaves grow in a rosette shape, and the stems do not elongate. It can break dormancy by treating at 0℃ for 30 days and below 5℃ for 21 days. It can also be treated with gibberellin (GA). The temperature required for flower bud differentiation varies depending on the variety type. Temperature-insensitive varieties can differentiate flower buds at 10-27℃, and 15℃ is the optimal temperature for flower bud differentiation. High temperature varieties inhibit flower bud differentiation under low temperature conditions, and the optimal temperature for flower bud differentiation is above 15℃. Low-temperature varieties inhibit flower bud differentiation under high temperatures, and 15 ℃ or less is the optimal temperature for flower bud differentiation. 4. Management after temperature treatment: ⑴ Preparation before planting: Disinfect the soil about one month before planting. If the fertilizer is insufficient, fertilize. For ground bed planting, it is necessary to turn the soil about 30 cm deep, add coarse-grained soil to the lower layer, add loose, fertile and well-drained soil to the upper layer, and apply appropriate amounts of decomposed cake fertilizer, superphosphate, plant ash and other quick-acting fertilizers. For box planting, the box soil used should be more fertile than the soil for bed planting. Water it fully 2 to 3 days before planting, and shade it to prevent the ground temperature from rising and maintain a cool environment. ⑵ Planting method: The rooting part of daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, etc. is at the base of the bulb. When planting, it should be level with the soil surface. The bulb of tulip can be exposed about 1/3 of the soil surface. In this way, under the influence of warm temperature, the flowers will bloom early, but the growth of bulbs is poor, and they are easy to differentiate into several small bulbs, and they will not bloom the next year. The planting depth of freesia and lily should be deeper, and fertile soil should be added after germination. For example, when planting freesia, cover the bulb with soil about 1cm, and cover it with soil 2.5cm when there are 3 to 4 true leaves. This can promote the growth and development of the plant. As long as the water is controlled and not watered too much, the plant can be placed to lodging and germinate neatly. The large bulbs of lily can be potted. The bulbs of musk lily with a circumference of 15cm can be placed in 18cm flower pots, and 3 can be planted in each pot; the bulbs with a circumference of 18cm can be planted in each pot. When the bulbs or plants are taken out of the cold storage, they should not be planted immediately due to the high temperature. They should be placed in a cool environment of 15-17℃ for 1-2 days to adapt to the temperature, and then planted. It is safer to plant on cloudy days, rainy days, or at night. ⑶ Management after planting: After planting, water should be fully irrigated. For bulbs that have begun to take root, holes should be dug on a fully leveled, unpressed bed surface for cultivation. Water after covering the soil. Avoid direct sunlight on the bed surface. High temperature and humidity often harm the root system, which is also one of the reasons for the rooting of tulips, bulbous irises, etc. Therefore, a shade shed should be set up for the planting bed, and grass on the ground can also prevent the temperature from rising. When planting in pots or boxes, they can be placed in the shade under buildings or trees, or they can be placed in trenches. If the roots and germination are accelerated at low temperatures in the cellar, and then transplanted to a sunny place for cultivation after germination, the effect will be better. Lilies should be kept at a temperature above 15°C, especially early-flowering musk lilies. Long days and high temperatures promote flower bud differentiation. It is best to place them in a sunny place when the seedlings are 3 to 5 cm tall. A low temperature of 10 to 15°C can promote flower bud differentiation for freesia. If the number of leaves before treatment does not reach 6 to 7, the plants will bloom after treatment when they are low. The cultivation temperature of daffodils and tulips should not be lower than 10°C. Plants with dormant flower buds should be given a temperature of 16 to 17°C at night and cultivated under conditions not exceeding 20°C at noon. (iii) Light treatment: Long-day flowers can bloom early by supplementing light with artificial light in the short-day season. If they are given short-day treatment for a long time, flowering will be inhibited. For short-day flowers, shading treatment in the long-day season can promote flowering. On the contrary, long-term long-day treatment will inhibit flowering. Most flowers that bloom in spring are long-day flowers, and most flowers that bloom in autumn are short-day flowers. Generally, for short-day flowers and long-day flowers, a light intensity of 30 to 50 Lux has a sunshine effect, and 100 Lux has a complete sunshine effect. Usually, the sunshine intensity at noon on a sunny day in summer is around 100,000 Lux, so the light intensity can meet the requirements. Red light is the most effective artificial light source, with a wavelength of 6300-6600 ((1 (=10-18m) having the strongest effect, followed by blue-violet light, of which 4800 ( has the least effect. As the wavelength becomes shorter, the effect gradually becomes stronger, and 4000 ( has the greatest effect. Flowers suitable for short-day treatment include chrysanthemums and poinsettias. Generally, poinsettias are shaded in summer. After mid-September, the appropriate sunshine hours are 9-10 hours. When the sunshine hours are 11 hours, green spots can be seen on the bracts. The critical sunshine hours are 12-12.5 hours. A single-petal poinsettia can bloom in more than 40 days, while a double-petal poinsettia takes a little longer to process. The temperature should be above 15°C during the process, and sufficient sunlight and good ventilation are required. If the temperature is lower than 15°C, the growth and development will be poor, the bracts and leaves will be poorly developed, and the quality will decline. In order to make the poinsettia bloom on the National Day, it can be given 8 to 9 hours of light every day at the end of July. After one month, the buds will form and gradually open in late September. ㈣ Combination of light and temperature treatment: In the regulation of the flowering period of flowers, sometimes a certain factor of light and temperature plays a significant dominant role in breaking dormancy, growth, flowering, flower bud differentiation, flower bud development, and flowering. For example, the flower bud differentiation period of violets requires low temperature treatment below 15°C, the flower bud differentiation of autumn chrysanthemums requires short-day conditions, and the dormancy of lily of the valley requires low temperature treatment of 0°C. However, two treatment factors are mainly used to promote or delay flowering. For example, autumn chrysanthemums require flower bud differentiation under short-day conditions, but they must be given a temperature above 15°C. If it is lower than 15°C, the differentiation of flower buds will be hindered. At the same time, the change of one treatment factor will cause other factors to change accordingly to achieve the desired effect. For example, primroses are treated with short-day light to promote flower bud differentiation. Only It is only effective at 16-21℃. When the temperature drops to 10℃, flower buds can differentiate regardless of long or short daylight. When the temperature rises to 30℃, flower buds will not differentiate regardless of the length of daylight. Another example is Schlumbergera russalliana, which is a succulent plant and also a short-day flower. It requires 17-18℃ to bloom under short-day treatment. When the temperature reaches 21-24℃, it will not bloom even under short daylight. When the temperature drops to around 12℃, it can bloom under long daylight. ㈤ Cultivation technology treatment: 1. Adjust the propagation period and planting period: ① Adjust the sowing period: For example, the sowing period of the following flowers that are on the market during the National Day is as follows: Type Sowing period Pomegranate mid-March Salvia chinensis early April Scutellaria barbata (pinched twice) early May Asclepiadaceae late May Cockscomb early June Asters, round velvet cockscombs, petunias, silver-edged emeralds, nasturtiums mid-June Big morning glory, bird's nest, marigold mid-June Globe amaranth, impatiens, zinnia, cosmos early July Dwarf aster July 20 If the saffron is available on the market on May 1st, it can be sown in late August and cultivated in a greenhouse in winter. It is constantly pinched to prevent flowering. 25 to 30 days before May 1st, stop pinching the tops, and it can bloom on May 1st. Calendula is sown in September and cultivated in a low-temperature greenhouse in winter. It blooms from December to January of the following year. ② Adjust the cutting period: If you need to bloom on October 1st, you can plant leek in late March and lotus (red thousand leaves) in early May; plant tuberose and gladiolus in mid-July; plant canna on July 25th (pot, cut off old leaves, protect leaves and young shoots). 2. Other cultivation techniques: ① Pruning: To prepare for the National Day, the late-flowering varieties of early chrysanthemums should be pruned from July 1 to 5, and the early-flowering varieties should be pruned from July 15 to 20. After the Dutch chrysanthemums are potted in March, they should be pruned 2 to 3 times, with the last one being 20 days before the National Day. ② Pinching: Pinching the sage 25 to 30 days before the National Day. ③ Leaf removal: Prunus mume should have its leaves removed from September 8 to 10, and it will bloom from the end of September to early October. ④ Fertilization: Appropriate application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and control of nitrogen fertilizers often promotes the development of flower buds. ⑤ Water control: Artificially control the water content to make the plants fall leaves and dormant, and then provide water supply at the appropriate time to break dormancy, and germinate, grow, and bloom. Woody flowers such as peony, magnolia, and lilac can bloom on New Year's Day or the Spring Festival using this method. In the process of controlling the flowering period, comprehensive technical measures are often used to control the flowering period, and the effect of controlling the flowering period is more significant.
Orchid
English name: Cymbidium spp
Family name: Orchidaceae, Orchid genus
Morphological characteristics:
　　Orchid, belonging to the Orchidaceae family, is a monocotyledonous plant, a perennial herb. Generally 20-40 cm tall, with a long cylindrical root. Leaves grow in clusters from the stem, linear lanceolate, slightly leathery, 2 to 3 leaves in a bunch. Raceme.
　　Orchids are usually divided into orchids and foreign orchids. Orchids are mainly produced in the subtropical areas of Asia, mainly in the mountainous areas of the provinces in the Yangtze River Basin, and are also distributed in Southwest China, South China and Taiwan; foreign orchids are mostly produced in tropical and subtropical forests.
　　Orchids have a cultivation history of more than 1,000 years in China and are of great ornamental value: their leaves are evergreen, and their flowers are fragrant and far-reaching, which comes from nature. They are called "the first fragrance" and "the national fragrance" by people.
Orchids are a type of perennial herbaceous plant that grows on the ground or epiphytes, and their morphology and structure vary greatly.
Picture appreciation 
Cultivation and management
Suitable ecological conditions, including slope, soil, temperature, humidity, light, ventilation and other natural factors.
Terrain
- Generally speaking, orchids grow in dense forests and bushes on high mountains, and are often found in secondary forests and bamboo forests. For example, the vertical distribution of spring and summer orchids is generally 300-500 meters, and the altitude of spring orchids is lower than that of cymbidium orchids.
Soil
orchids require deep soil layers, rich humus, loose and fertile dark brown, slightly acidic soil with good water permeability and water retention, and a pH value of 5-6.5.
Light
orchids like shade and require short sunshine hours. In natural distribution, it is shown that spring orchids generally require a shade density of 70-95%, and are mostly distributed on shady slopes. The leaves of spring orchids on shady slopes are dark green and have strong growth potential. Cymbidium orchids require a shade density of 50-%, and are mostly distributed on the southwest slope, with slightly longer light hours than the distribution areas of spring orchids. Jianlan, Molan and Hanlan also grow mostly in secondary forests or mixed forests with high canopy density, while Tailan grows mostly in the cracks of rocks on the top of the mountain or in the cracks of steep stone walls near the river.
Temperature and humidity
Orchids like warm and humid weather. It is best not to freeze in winter, and the temperature is best maintained at 3-7℃. In summer, it is suitable to maintain 25-28℃. In natural distribution, orchid production areas are accompanied by streams and receive rain and dew all year round, and the annual rainfall is required to be more than 1000 mm. Orchids grow new roots and leaves once a year and grow slowly. In terms of overall growth potential, Huilan is the weakest, Chunlan is the second, and Jianlan is the strongest, so they must be treated differently in cultivation.
As for epiphytic orchids, they often grow on old and decayed trees or places rich in humus, but their temperature requirements are higher than those of the above-mentioned terrestrial orchids. The distribution area also moves further south.
In short, whether terrestrial or epiphytic, they generally have the characteristics of drought and have certain adaptability to irregular water supply. At the same time. Orchids have the habit of resting in their native places, which depends on the rainy season and early season. Usually the dry season is in winter, which is the dormant period of orchids; the rainy season is in spring and summer, which is the growing period of orchids, so they keep blooming and blooming. To cultivate orchids, you must master these natural growth laws.
Water-cut flowers pot maintenance
Water-cut propagation is a good way to propagate flowers at home, which is both convenient and hygienic. It is simple and easy to operate, but if you want to make it a strong plant, you should pay special attention to pot maintenance.
　　1. Prevent root breakage. The water roots generated by water-cut flower propagation are brittle and easy to break. Therefore, during the transplantation process, whether it is planted in a flowerpot or in the open field, you must be careful. You can hold the seedling with your left hand and use your right hand to gently spread the culture soil with a water content of 60% around the root zone. Don't spread the soil too hard, and don't compact the pot soil with force. After potting, gently tap the pot on the ground 3 to 5 times, and then use the pot seat method to water it thoroughly.
　　2. Prevent fertilizer damage. The water roots generated by water cuttings of flowers have a low concentration of cell sap in the root cells. After potting, once fertilizer is applied, especially concentrated fertilizer and raw fertilizer, the concentration in the soil will be greater than the concentration of the water root cell sap, causing dehydration around the root tips of the flowers that have just been potted, thereby wilting the flowers and reducing the survival rate of transplantation. Usually, some light and thin liquid fertilizer is applied 30 to 45 days after transplanting.
　　3. Prevent waterlogging. The water roots generated by water cuttings of flowers should not be watered many times after potting. Otherwise, the flowers will rot due to excessive water and lack of oxygen in the roots, eventually leading to the death of the flowers. Therefore, as long as the soil is kept moist and the temperature is 18℃ to 25℃, shade is strengthened, and the number of leaf spraying and the humidity of the surrounding air are increased. After the growth of the plants stabilizes, normal watering management can be switched to.

How to make jasmine bloom more
　　"When jasmine blooms, the fragrance fills the branches, and the flowers are in disarray. When the tea cup is put down and the incense is gone, I am the only one who knows this taste at dusk." This is a verse used by ancient poets to describe the flowering of jasmine. Jasmine flowers are white, with a strong and distant fragrance. Several flowers grow in clusters on the top of the branches, which is pleasing to the eye. How to make jasmine bloom more? 1. Light. As the saying goes, "Jasmine can't be killed by the sun, and orchids can't be killed by the shade." Jasmine likes light. The more sunlight, the more flowers it blooms and the stronger the fragrance. If there is insufficient light, it will only grow leaves but not flowers. Therefore, jasmine should not be placed indoors for long-term viewing during its flowering period. 2. Water. Jasmine likes a humid climate. In summer and autumn, the amount of water evaporation is large. The soil should be kept moist at all times. In addition to watering, it should also be sprayed with water to moisten its leaves and promote its luxuriant growth. In winter, it is better to keep the pot soil moist and slightly dry. 3. Nutrients. Jasmine likes fertilizer. When new shoots sprout, thin fertilizers should be applied. Fertilization can be stopped until the flowering period is basically over after Bailu. In particular, topdressing should be frequent during the flowering period. Frequent topdressing with quick-acting fertilizers such as bean cake water and bone meal can increase the number of flowers and enhance the fragrance. 4. Pruning and pinching. After the peak flowering period, heavy pruning should be done to renew the branches. When branches with ten pairs of leaves but no flower buds are found, they should be pinched in time to prevent excessive growth. If the number of flower buds is small and the flowers are small for the first time, the flower buds and branch top buds should be cut off to prevent the waste of nutrients and allow more new shoots to grow. This is the key to promoting jasmine to bloom well and bloom more.

Do potted flowers need to be fertilized frequently?
What kind of fertilizer should be applied?
Fertilizer is a nutrient element necessary for the growth and development of flowers and plants. Most common potted flower culture soils contain a certain amount of fertilizer. However, potted flowers are limited by soil content and specific growth environment conditions. In addition, different types of flowers require different types and qualities of fertilizers at different growth stages, and the nutrient elements in the culture soil often cannot fully meet the needs from beginning to end. This requires applying an appropriate amount of base fertilizer and topdressing in time to achieve the purpose of cultivation and ornamental effect. If the base fertilizer is not appropriate, the topdressing is not timely, and the foliar fertilization is ignored regardless of the growth of the plant, it will affect the normal growth and development of flowers and plants, and even cause the plants to be deformed or withered. Generally, crops are fertilized to promote growth only to pursue their high yield benefits, while flower fertilization, in addition to ensuring the normal growth and development of flowers and plants, is also aimed at achieving the perfect cultivation form and ornamental effect of the plants. Therefore, flower growers must master the knowledge of soil and fertilizers and the methods of soil preparation and fertilization, so that they can apply fertilizers at the right time and in the right amount according to the types, properties, dosages, soil textures, temperature, light and other environmental conditions required by potted flowers at each stage of cultivation.
During the growth and development of plants, the nutrients required are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, ammonia, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur and trace elements such as iron, boron, copper, zinc, molybdenum, and chlorine. Each element has its own unique role in the plant body, and they complement and relate to each other, thus ensuring the normal growth and development of the plant.
Plants absorb carbon from carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and hydrogen and oxygen from water. These three elements account for 94% to 95% of the fresh weight of plants. Although the other 13 elements only account for 5% to 6% of the fresh weight of plants, they can only be absorbed from soil nutrients, so they often restrict the growth and development of plants. Plants'
1. Types and frequency of fertilization for various elements. Foliage flowers and trees only need to be fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer 1-2 times (once every half a month) during the spring and autumn growing season. Flowers and trees with ornamental flowers and fruits need to be fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer 1-2 times during the branch and leaf growth stage. Phosphorus fertilizer should be applied from flower bud differentiation to before flowering. Roses, jasmine, Milan and other flowers that bloom several times a year should be fertilized with phosphorus fertilizer more times as appropriate (the concentration of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers should be well controlled). Camellias, azaleas and other flowers that only bloom once a year should not be fertilized during the flowering period to prevent the flowers from withering early.
2. Fertilization concentration. Different flowers have different adaptability to fertilizer concentrations. Flowers with strong growth ability such as jasmine, roses, and pomegranates can be more concentrated; orchids, camellias and other flowers have weaker fertilizer absorption. To prevent fertilizer damage, the method of thin fertilizer and frequent application can be adopted, that is, 3 parts fertilizer and 7 parts water; large potted flowers and trees can be fertilized more concentratedly; small potted flowers can be fertilized less.
3. Fertilization method. Loosen the soil first and then fertilize. When burying the granular fertilizer in the potting soil, avoid contact with the root system, or melt the granules and add water for irrigation. Water again the next morning after fertilization, which is conducive to the root absorption of flowers and trees.
4. Symptoms of lack of fertilizer in flowers and trees. When flowers and trees lack fertilizer, the leaves turn yellow from bottom to top (except for aging of the leaves at the base), and the edges of the leaves hang down (the leaves also turn yellow when the concentration of the pesticide is too high, but the edges of the leaves roll up). You can dilute the decomposed chicken manure and bean cake with 10 times of clean water and apply it.
5. Symptoms of lack of water in flowers and trees. When some flowers and trees lack water, the leaves will turn yellow, such as camellia and azalea. You can use 1% ferrous sulfate 2-3 times, or use 0.5 kg of vinegar and 130-170 liters of water to spray the leaves. Spray once every 10 days and spray 3-4 times continuously to turn the leaves from yellow to green.
6. Stop fertilizing during the dormant period. If indoor flowers and trees enter a dormant state in winter, fertilization should be stopped (except for those that bloom in early spring). Fertilization should also be stopped for Clivia and Begonia that enter dormancy in summer. In addition, newly transplanted flowers and trees cannot be fertilized temporarily, and fertilization can be applied after new roots grow out. Pay special attention to the fact that uncomposted fertilizers cannot be applied. When repotting potted flowers, basal fertilizers should be buried in the potting soil to avoid contact with the root system.
7. Homemade fertilizers. Residents can prepare their own fertilizer sources for flower cultivation at home. Put disease-free vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, fish bones, eggshells, fish viscera, moldy soybeans or rice washing water and other wastes in a small tank, add a certain amount of water, seal it with plastic film and tie it tightly (rice washing water can be poured into a Coke bottle), and scoop out the fermented juice after full fermentation and dilute it with water for use. There may be some odor after application, so ventilation should be carried out. To suit home flower growing, the flower market has various series of fertilizers, such as flower-promoting fertilizers, foliar fertilizers, full-element fertilizers (or granular), liquid organic fertilizers, etc. They are odorless and easy to use. Flower-growing enthusiasts can purchase and apply them as needed.