Flowers that like loose and breathable soil: This soil is light, has large pores, and is rich in humus, which is particularly conducive to the development of flower roots. Most of the flowers we grow at home are suitable for this soil, such as poinsettia, rubber trees, bromeliads, orchids, etc.
Flowers that like acidic soil: azalea, camellia, jasmine, Milan, gardenia, spider plant, etc. These plants are very sensitive to the pH of the soil. If the soil reacts alkaline, these flowers will turn yellow and fall leaves, or even die. When this happens, you should spray a high concentration of ferrous sulfate in time, or add a few drops of vinegar to the water, and the effect is good.
Plants that like alkaline soil include: cactus, oleander, rose, chrysanthemum, hibiscus, geranium, etc. (Except for some epiphytic plants such as Christmas cactus, most of the cactus plants are resistant to alkalinity.)
Flowers with strong adaptability: This type of flower has strong adaptability, and the acidity and alkalinity of the soil have little effect on its growth. Such as: osmanthus, wintersweet, dianthus, rose, etc.
Simple method to identify soil acidity and alkalinity

    By hand feel: Acidic soil feels "soft" when held in the hand, and it is easy to spread out after letting go, and it is not easy to clump; alkaline soil feels "hard" when held in the hand, and it is easy to clump and not spread out after letting go.
    Look at the situation after watering: Acidic soil seeps quickly after watering, no white bubbles appear, and the water surface is turbid; alkaline soil seeps slowly after watering, white bubbles appear on the water surface, white foam appears, and sometimes there is a layer of white alkaline substance on the outside of the flower pot.

　　There are various varieties of large-flowered cymbidium, with a variety of colors such as yellow, pink, and red. The plant is relatively large, with a height of about 1.3 meters, and is suitable for placement in a larger space. It is usually placed on a flower stand, which looks generous and warm. Large-flowered cymbidium has good cold resistance and is easy to maintain, and can be watered normally. The flowering period is relatively long, generally two or three months, but after the flowers fade, it is generally difficult to grow more flowers. Large-flowered cymbidium is a mid-to-high-end flower, and the price is related to the number of flower stems. The more flower stems, the higher the price. Generally, the price will increase by about 30 yuan for each additional flower stem, and if several plants are combined together, the price will be higher.
　　Colored Calla Lily

　　Colored calla lilies are new flowers on the Shijiazhuang flower market, but the number is small. They are novel and high-end, making them a great gift. Most ordinary calla lilies are white, but colored calla lilies are bred in various colors by grafting genes from other flowers. The plant is small, about 40 cm tall, and is suitable for placing on tables, coffee tables, and corner cabinets as an embellishment to furniture. The flowering period is about one month. Generally, it is watered once every three or four days, and it must be watered thoroughly at once. Water can be sprayed on the leaves, and the leaves can be wiped with water or beer at ordinary times. The bright leaves can better bring out the nobility of the colored calla lily petals. The color of the petals generally has a gradient effect, the leaf shape is beautiful and varied, and has some small spots. The leaves can be viewed after the flowers fade.
　　Lily

　　Lilies are popular this year, but not so popular last year. Lilies have large corollas and strong fragrance. If you put a pot in a corner of the room, you can smell its fragrance throughout the room. Lilies are elegant, but you can't put too many lilies just because they look good, otherwise the effect will be counterproductive. Generally, you can choose a combination of 5 plants in a pot and put them near doors, windows and other upwind outlets to facilitate the spread of fragrance, but lilies are afraid of wind and cannot be blown by the wind. The flowering period of lilies is relatively short. At an indoor temperature of about 15 degrees, it is about half a month. After the flowers fade, the ornamental value of the leaves is not great, and it is not easy for ordinary families to grow flowers again. The indoor temperature seriously affects the flowering period of lilies. The main way to raise lilies is to control the indoor temperature. If the indoor temperature is too high, it may only take one night from bud to bloom. When the lily is about to open and you can put your fingers in it, you should gently pick off the stamens to prevent pollen from falling on the petals and forming orange spots. The buds of lilies are very beautiful. If a pot of lilies has both blooming petals and buds waiting to bloom, the style of the lilies will be fully released
　　.

　　Tulips are also a popular variety this year. Compared with last year, they were not so popular, and there are more of them this year. Compared with other flowers, tulips have rich and diverse colors and varieties, with a large difference in the size of the flowers, more changes in size and plant height, and the technology is more mature. The flowering period of different varieties is also different, generally about one month. They are more cold-resistant, and they bloom faster when the temperature is high and they see more light. It is best to put them in a cold, cool and dark place. Light especially affects the degree of opening of tulips. The biggest feature is that they open during the day and close at night, but as time goes by, they will open more and more, and gradually wither. The height of tulips is about 40 cm, and generally 10-12 plants are combined in a pot, which is suitable for being placed on coffee tables and corner cabinets as embellishments. It is a mid-to-low-end flower. The price is related to the variety, and the price of different varieties varies greatly.
　　Cyclamen

　　Cyclamen is a popular flower with many varieties and different prices. Shijiazhuang is a production base of cyclamen, and there are more of them on the market. Compared with other cities, the price in Shijiazhuang is more affordable. Pink, purple, red with white edges, etc. are all available. There are heart-shaped patterns on the heart-shaped leaves, and the leaves themselves have high ornamental value. The blooming cyclamen are gathered together in clusters, surrounded by lush leaves, and placed on the coffee table or table at home, which is very suitable for the festive atmosphere of the festival. Cyclamen is simple to maintain and suitable for the northern climate. It is not only pleasing to the eyes, but also pleasing to the eyes. It is inexpensive and of good quality.
　　Azalea

　　Phalaenopsis is a relatively high-end flower that has been popular in recent years. It is recognized by many people. The price this year is slightly lower than in previous years. The height of Phalaenopsis is generally about 70 cm, and the flowering period is more than two months. Now Phalaenopsis has more and more colors. In addition to the common red, pink, purple and white, there are also orange and spotted ones. If the flower pot is suitable, a single Phalaenopsis will have a unique style, but generally different levels of Phalaenopsis are interspersed and combined into different flower shapes, 3, 5, 7, and 12 plants are all suitable, which are suitable for placing on flower racks. Phalaenopsis is divided into A, B, and C grades according to the number of flowers. Generally, a plant with more than 7 flowers is A grade, more than 5 flowers are B grade, and more than 3 flowers are C grade. The higher the grade, the higher the price. Generally speaking, those with large flowers, upright petals, straight flower stems, and fleshy and brighter leaves are top-grade.
　　Bromeliaceae flowers

　　There are many varieties of bromeliads, and the flower shapes of different varieties vary greatly. For example, there are many varieties such as Dennis, Red Star, Pink Star, Pine Cone, Rice Head, Oriole Song, Red Arrow, etc., and the prices vary greatly. The top-quality Pine Cone costs six or seven hundred yuan per plant, while ordinary Dennis and Red Star may cost seventy or eighty yuan per plant. Single or combined bromeliads can show their generosity and noble temperament. If given as gifts, they are usually combined into groups of 3, 4, or 5 plants, and a single plant is not very classy. Bromeliaceae flowers are generally suitable for flower stands placed in the living room to create a festive atmosphere. Maintenance is relatively simple, but water must always be kept in the top flower cup to facilitate its growth.
　　Hydroponic flowers

　  Watering: Fruit-viewing plants such as Buddha's hand, kumquat, and fortune seeds should not only keep the pot soil moist, but also spray water on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits, so that the leaves can be green, the flower buds can expand rapidly, and the fruits can be brightly colored. The temperature and humidity in the original environment of the purchased greenhouse, such as cymbidium and poinsettia, are very different from those at home. If the leaves are not sprayed with water frequently, the leaves will often shrink and dry. For various pineapple flowers such as Jilixing and Gaohongxing, if the room temperature is lower than 10℃~15℃, not only should watering be controlled, but also too much water should not be injected into the leaf tube to prevent heart rot. For potted ornamental plants, it is advisable to keep the pot soil moist, but watering should not be too frequent. Generally, water once every three or four days in winter, spring, and autumn, and once a day in summer.

　　Fertilization: Camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Clivia, red plum, cymbidium, Jilixing, Gaohongxing, etc., as long as the room temperature is not lower than 15℃, compound fertilizer can be applied once every 15 to 20 days. For tree stump bonsai and potted foliage plants that have entered a dormant state, all forms of topdressing should be stopped.

　　Pruning: In March and April, for potted ornamental plants, the dead branches, yellow leaves and branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases should be cut off and destroyed. Some varieties, such as rubber trees and lucky trees, need to be "topped", that is, the tallest tender heads should be cut off, and the length of the cut should be two or three centimeters. After cutting, the cross-section can be sealed with bottom ash from the pot for disinfection.

　　Cold protection: Because it is still a season of sudden change from warm to cold, the potted plants placed on the balcony should be determined according to the lower temperature that different ornamental plant species can tolerate. Before the cold wave comes, they must be moved indoors to avoid the cold, or a double-layer plastic shed should be directly built above the plants to protect them from the cold.

　　1. Flower propagation

　　1. Sowing The types of flowers that can be sown in the greenhouse in January include: Gloxinia, Asparagus, Clivia, Begonia, Cyclamen, Coral, Gerbera, etc. The types of ornamental plants that can be sown outdoors include: Rose (Elizabeth), Nandina domestica, Fortune Seed, Holly, Pyracantha, Palm, Photinia, Alnus, Sapindus, Ligustrum, Wisteria, Tung, Koelreuteria, etc.

　　2. Cuttings The ornamental plants suitable for open-field or covered cuttings in January are: plum blossoms (green calyx, palace powder and other varieties), red leaf plum, roses (Elizabeth, Fenghua, miniature and other varieties), cherry blossoms, wintersweets (with heels), spirea, boxwood, pomegranate, silver bud willow, Mahonia, Podocarpus, June snow, three-branched, Hypericum, golden bell, spray snowflake, winter jasmine, etc. The species that can be propagated by cuttings in the greenhouse are: jasmine, pearl orchid, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, triangle flower, carnation, umbrella grass, gem flower, jade leaf, jade tree, stone lotus, epiphyllum, euphorbia, cold water flower, mirror grass, shrimp grass, golden bud flower, ground root, Rieger begonia, dragon's tongue, Schefflera, rubber tree, Daphne, red back laurel, Guangdong evergreen, green radish, cordyline, etc. In addition, you can also cut branches of lilac, trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, sea daffodil, deutzia, hydrangea, sycamore, fig, etc. and store them in the sand, and then wait until March for cuttings.

　　3. Grafting high-quality plum varieties, you can use one-year seedlings of apricot, plum, mountain peach, and hairy peach as rootstocks for rootstock grafting and propagation. After grafting, bury them in the seedbed and cover them with mulch to keep moisture and prevent cold. In Guangdong, bud grafting of four-season oranges and kumquats is often carried out between the Lesser Cold and the Greater Cold. Use the excavated wild roses to bud graft high-quality rose varieties, using the Elizabeth variety of rose as the rootstock.

　　For rose varieties that are grafted or cleft-grafted, grafting and cuttings are carried out simultaneously, and the ground is covered with plastic film to keep moisture and prevent cold.

　　4. Layering The types of ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, begonia, podocarpus, snowball, viburnum, forsythia, admiralty, hydrangea, hydrangea, snowflake, pomegranate, red maple, etc.

　　5. Division The types of herbaceous ornamental plants that can be propagated by division in January include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, auspicious grass, Allium orchid, Allium orchid, Hosta, Purple calyx, Purple back Dieffenbachia, Jianlan, Chunlan, Huilan, Nephrolepis, Belamcanda, Iris, Chlorophytum, Dieffenbachia, Guangdong Dieffenbachia, Flos Roots, Bromelia, Small Talan, Alpinia officinalis, Monstera, Aloe, etc. The types of woody ornamental plants that can be propagated by division in January include: Nandina domestica, Hypericum, Mahonia, Begonia, Palm bamboo, Spraying snowflake, Red Spiraea, Goldfinch, Admiralty, Winter Jasmine, Jasmine, Pearl orchid, Tiger thorn, Gardenia, Tripterygium, Boxwood, Magnolia, etc.

　　1. Collecting seeds In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and Clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after being collected. The seeds of mature winter coral can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, you can pick Nandina domestica, Pyracantha, Holly, and Pluvialis seeds, and after processing, store them in sand to accelerate germination. You can sow them only after the cracks of the seeds are white.

　　In January, the seeds stored in the sand, including magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, holly, etc., should be checked regularly to see if the seeds are moldy. If moldy, the seeds must be poured out and re-washed, and replaced with clean fine sand before storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, they must be sprayed with water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and whitened or the radicle has extended, they must be sown immediately and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. to keep warm and moist.

　　2. Transplanting and planting In January, the flowers that can be transplanted and planted in areas that are not too cold include: dianthus, kale, marigold, daisy, etc.; in relatively cold areas, dianthus, kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose and other seedlings can be potted and placed in a simple plastic greenhouse first, and then used for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders after the spring returns and the weather warms up.

　　In January, most deciduous shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, bauhinia, crabapple, ginkgo, liquidambar, maple, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, Koelreuteria, Albizzia, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry, papaya, two-sister magnolia, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, Ligusticum chuanxiong, peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spirea, three-leafed clover, rose, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica, etc. Evergreen species, especially camphor and French blue, should generally be transplanted in advance to December or delayed to February this month except for special circumstances. Of course, it is also acceptable to carry out intensive pruning after transplanting in a sheltered place, and strengthen cold protection and watering management after transplanting.

　　In January, despite the cold weather, the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation and land preparation in the south of the Yangtze River did not affect the collection of wild tree stumps, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as elm, photinia, maple, azalea, crape myrtle, maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, elaeagnus, euonymus, etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina domestica, cat's thorn, holly, holly, oak, etc., they must be strongly pruned and most of the leaves must be deleted. Whether it is a deciduous tree stump or an evergreen tree stump, it should be cultivated by shallow burial and high cultivation, and covered with straw curtains to prevent frost.

　　1. Cold protection This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work. Any negligence will cause serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai during the winter. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that different types of flowers can tolerate, a special environment for safe wintering should be created for them, either in a greenhouse, in a shed, at home, or buried in the open soil. In a simple plastic greenhouse not lower than 0℃, ornamental plants that can tolerate low temperatures around 0℃ can be placed, such as Pothos, Asparagus, Asparagus, Flameleaf, Livistona, Nephrolepis, Bamboo Palm, Nandina domestica, Peach Leaf Coral, Michelia, Spring Orchid, Orchid, Fortune Seed, Daphne, Cycas, Acorus, Phoenix Tail Bamboo, Philippine White Bamboo, etc. In a double-layer plastic greenhouse with a temperature not lower than 5℃, ornamental plants that can tolerate low temperatures of around 5℃ can be placed, such as Araucaria, rubber tree, jasmine, pearl orchid, white orchid, miniature coconut palm, bottle orchid, calla lily, spring feather, monstera, kumquat, dahlia, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, cymbidium, cymbidium, epiphyllum, Euphorbia, giant Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and five-color plum. In a double-layer plastic greenhouse or greenhouse with auxiliary heating equipment, you can put flowers that can tolerate low temperatures of about 10°C, such as Croton, Caladium, Syngonium, Arrowroot, Bromeliad, Peperomia, Coleus, Lucky Bamboo, Fishtail Palm, Brazilian Iron, Fortune Tree, Net-grass, Red (Green) Gem, Hulk, Green Emperor, Silver Queen, Milan, Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Money Tree, Cymbidium, Desert Rose, Pink Daisy, Poinsettia, Golden Bud Flower, Coral Flower, etc. In particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the greenhouse with straw curtains, and stop covering the straw curtains after the temperature warms up. On very cold days, it is necessary to strengthen the inspection of heating facilities and on-duty personnel, especially from 5 to 6 o'clock in the morning, and never turn off the fire or power outage, otherwise it is easy to cause frost damage to the plants. For those more cold-resistant potted flowers and bonsai plants, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, azalea, pomegranate, elm, photinia, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood, podocarpus, maple, cypress, juniper, summer cypress, cypress, bayberry, holly, holly, and fraxinus, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots. As long as the temperature is not lower than -10℃, frost damage generally will not occur. In particularly cold weather, cover with plastic film or soft grass to keep warm.

　　It is worth noting that whether it is placed in a greenhouse, a greenhouse, or a potted flower or bonsai at home, including fruit and foliage plants, in addition to maintaining a suitable temperature, ventilation should also be done well. The doors and windows can be opened around noon when the temperature is highest to prevent the flowers, leaves, and fruits from falling. When providing ventilation, it is also necessary to try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

　　In January, we should pay special attention to the inspection of greenhouses and sheds every time the cold air moves south. If we find broken glass or torn film, we should promptly stop the leaks to prevent the potted flowers from freezing. When providing coal, gas or oil for heating in the greenhouse, we should also carefully check to make sure there are no air or smoke leaks into the greenhouse or shed to prevent the flowers, leaves and fruits from falling due to smoke damage.

　　In order to promote the flowering of peonies during the Spring Festival, potted peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18℃ to 25℃ during the day and kept at around 10℃ at night, and 4 to 5 hours of light (incandescent lamp) can be added every day, and they are expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossoms, wintersweets, camellias, camellia sasanquas, malus malus, malus sibiricus, and winter jasmine can also be placed in a greenhouse at around 15℃ to promote flowering, and the light exposure time can be appropriately increased to meet the needs of indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-mouthed daffodils, freesias, etc. that have been placed in the greenhouse in December, water and fertilizer management should be strengthened, and they can also be used for decoration and display during the Spring Festival.

　　2. Watering In January, the most important thing to pay attention to is the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, to keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too large, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause the plants to shed leaves, rot roots or die. The best time for watering is 2 to 3 hours around noon. Secondly, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, greenhouses and living rooms, it is advisable to keep the pot soil moist. When the temperature is low, watering should be reduced accordingly. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and the leaves can be sprayed. For most foliage plants, it is necessary to keep the pot soil moist and pay attention to spraying water on the leaves to keep the leaves of the plants clean at all times. For foliage plants that are not very cold-resistant, such as pink daisy leaves, syngonium, arrowroot, croton, etc., when the temperature is close to the lowest limit temperature that the plant can tolerate, the amount of watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flowers that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as pyracantha, aster, bergamot, lemon, palinurus, kumquat, golden bean, and winter coral, not only must the soil in the pot be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water to facilitate the expansion of the flower buds and increase the bright color of the fruit.

　　Although potted flowers do not require much water in January, regular inspections should be carried out to prevent potted flowers placed in remote areas from lacking water. Timely watering of plants with dry soil can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

　　Newly planted green trees and flowering shrubs should be checked regularly and given additional watering in a timely manner. Especially for those evergreen ornamental plants that have been transplanted, the leaves should be sprayed with water around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to excessively dry air.

1. Types of flowers suitable for garden planting

1. Types of flowers planted on the ground If the front of your courtyard is open and has good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the front row of buildings is greater than 30 meters, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, you can plant some flowers that like light and have high requirements for the growth environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees include: white magnolia, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, Michelia, two-sister magnolia, papaya, malus, malus, malus, malus, malus, viburnum, snowball, persimmon, hibiscus, magnolia, plum, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry, grape, peach, bamboo, red maple, bauhinia, hibiscus, Canary date palm, etc. If your yard is relatively damp, you should choose some species of flowers and trees that are adapted to damp conditions, such as palm, heather, peach leaf coral, French holly, privet, broad-leaved Mahonia, magnolia, camphor, cypress, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, golden plate, cypress, cedar, wintersweet, banana, bamboo, etc. No matter what the light is like in your yard, or how dry or wet it is, you should pay attention to the following points when choosing flowers and trees for ground planting:

First, the lowest temperature that flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local lowest temperature to avoid freezing damage;

Second, adapt to local soil and water conditions to avoid acclimatization;

Third, it has fewer pests and diseases, a longer flowering and fruiting period, a fragrant smell, and auspicious flower names;

Fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many. A small courtyard can have 1 to 2 trees, while a large courtyard can have more trees.

Fifth, the height of mature trees should not exceed the windows and balconies on the second floor, so as not to block the lighting of the residents upstairs and affect the relationship with neighbors; Sixth, avoid planting flowers and trees that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances;

Seventh, you should choose large-sized plants that grow slowly but have basically taken shape, so as to achieve the effect of greening and beautification as early as possible. For example, the height of ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc. should not be less than 2 meters; eighth, leave some free land for planting flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

　　There are many types of grass flowers and ground cover plants suitable for ground planting. Those that like the sun and light include dianthus, snapdragon, kale, pansy, salvia, cockscomb, globe amaranth, step by step high, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupine, daisy, calendula, poppy, onion orchid, dahlia, etc. The grass flowers and ground cover plants that are more shade-tolerant include: ophiopogon, large-leaf ophiopogon, lucky grass, hosta, purple calyx, amaryllis, dieffenbachia, purple-backed dieffenbachia, spider orchid, iris, calamus, saxifrage, etc.

2. Types of potted flowers There are many types of flowers suitable for potted plants in home courtyards. Under good conditions, you can choose to plant some types of flowers that require more sophisticated management, such as plum blossom, Milan, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Araucaria, Brazilian iron, money tree, king coconut, white orchid, pearl orchid, jasmine, fortune seed, bromeliad, money tree (dragon and phoenix wood), gray lily (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, cymbidium, anthurium, Jianlan, Phalaenopsis, anthemum, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda orchid, Rieger begonia, bulbous begonia, Strelitzia, hibiscus, Clivia, green ivy, spiderwort, croton, little angel, syngonium, bergamot, tortoiseshell, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, purse flower, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can plant some species that require less extensive management, such as Nandina domestica, Dracaena, Bamboo palm, Chrysanthemum, Spring orchid, Cymbidium, Amaryllis, Winter jasmine, Admiralty, Goldfinch, Serissa julibrissin, Begonia, Osmanthus fern, cactus, Asparagus fern, Rubber tree, Epiphyllum, Euphorbia, Monstera, Spring feather, Schefflera, Pilea, Osmanthus fern, Bougainvillea, Macrothorn, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Banyan, etc.

2. Propagation of Garden Flowers

1. Sowing The garden flowers that can be sown in March are: crape myrtle, bauhinia, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, red maple, and lily of the valley. The seeds of the last five species need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and then sowed after they absorb water. The flowers and trees that can be sown and raised after sand storage and germination are: cycads, ginkgo, bamboo cypress, podocarpus, fan palm, purple magnolia, Michelia, osmanthus, horse chestnut, Nandina domestica, holly, pomegranate, and viburnum. The herbaceous flowers that can be sown are: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, saffron, cockscomb, colorful pepper, winter coral, four-season primrose, mallow, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, asparagus, etc. Some species that are not cold-resistant should be sown in plastic sheds.

2. Types of flowers and trees that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, Euphorbia, purslane, jewelweed, stone lotus, hydrangea, nandina domestica, crabapple, silver willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, star anise, gardenia, admiralty, forsythia, cypress, daphne, and torch fruit. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be carried out in a shed or indoors.

3. Grafting The types of flowers and trees that can be grafted in March include: using 1-2 year old black pine seedlings as rootstocks, belly grafting to propagate five-needle pine, Osaka pine, and brocade pine; using 1-2 year old white magnolia and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstocks, cutting grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia ovata, etc.; using 1 year old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstocks, cutting grafting to propagate plum blossoms, longevity peaches, peach blossoms, and red leaf peaches; using finger-thick seedlings of wintersweet as rootstocks, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select fine varieties of wintersweet spikes, cut graft and bag to keep them moist, the survival rate is high; using three-edged arrows as rootstocks, grafting Christmas cactus and various cacti, it is best to do it in a greenhouse. In addition, camellia, cherry blossoms, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

4. Types of flowers and trees that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, camellia sasanqua, plum, wintersweet, red maple, Podocarpus, cypress, cypress, Michelia, crabapple, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

5. The types of flowers that can be propagated by division in March include: orchids, peonies, spider plants, asparagus ferns, cycads, nandina domestica, mahonia, begonia, tiger tail orchid, purple triangle-leaved Oxalis, canna, Alpinia galanga, dahlia, strelitzia, etc.

3. Management of Garden Flowers

1. Management of ground-planted garden flowers and trees

(1) Transplantation March is the best time to transplant ground-planted flowers and trees. Transplantation of plum blossoms, white magnolias, purple magnolias, two-tree magnolias, horse chestnut trees, and red maples should be arranged before the plants sprout and leaf out. When transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and increase survival rate. Transplantation of wintersweet, crape myrtle, bauhinia, hibiscus, horse chestnut, peach, red leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc. is fine even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning is still required. Whether it is an evergreen tree or a deciduous tree, it is necessary to bring enough soil balls when transplanting. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be 6 times larger than the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilization: For ground-planted flowers and trees that are not given buried fertilizers in winter, a circular trench about 15 to 20 cm deep can be dug around their root system before they sprout, and fermented cake fertilizer, stable manure, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-component compound fertilizer can be applied to lay a good material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

(3) Pruning For plants that have not been pruned yet, especially plum blossoms, wintersweets, golden bells, and winter jasmines, in addition to pruning dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and overgrown branches, one-year-old branches can be cut off 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branches, leaving only 2 to 3 buds. After intensive pruning, more new branches will sprout in the spring and more flower buds will form in summer and autumn, which will facilitate flowering next year. For camellia and camellia sasanqua, branches that damage the plant shape can be pruned after flowering, and some weak branches and cross branches in the inner part can be pruned at the same time. For pomegranates, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches that grow that year, they can be pruned in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the plants.

(4) Prevention and control of pests and diseases: Infected branches and leaves on the plants should be cut off and destroyed in time to reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year. For some flowers and trees that are susceptible to pests and diseases, such as roses, wood claws, crabapples, grapes, and weeping crabapples, spraying Bordeaux liquid in time after the leaves unfold can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust.

　3. Management of garden potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, weeping crabapple, stalked crabapple, pyracantha, five-needle pine, bamboo, elm, maple, oak, fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed outdoors, repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out. Replace them with loose, fertile, organic-rich fresh culture soil to lay a good foundation for growth in spring and summer. For indoor white orchid, Milan, pearl orchid, rose, jasmine, hibiscus, strelitzia, cycad, poinsettia, camellia, Belgian azalea, rich seed, daisy, bergamot, lemon, monstera, spring feather, Clivia, little angel, syngonium, arrowroot, etc., repotting should be done before moving out of the room.

(2) Exercise In the areas north of the Yangtze River, most potted flowers are still being maintained indoors in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal importance. Due to the unstable weather this month, cold currents occasionally move southward, so it is still necessary to continue to do a good job of keeping warm and cold protection in early and mid-March. In late March, you can open the doors and windows of your room during the day for ventilation and close them at night, so that white orchids, Milan, pearl orchids, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, monstera, cherubs, rubber trees, Araucaria, etc. can gradually accept exercise and adapt to the outdoor environment, so as to avoid premature germination that affects the growth and normal flowering of the year. For potted flowers in the areas north of the Yellow River, it is still necessary to continue to do a good job of keeping warm and cold protection this month, and it must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning: For indoor hibiscus, fuchsia, clovers, jasmine, pearl orchid, white orchid, cycad, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, and begonia, necessary pruning should be carried out in conjunction with repotting, including the removal of diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, irregular branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For ornamental tree stumps such as Acer truncatum, Podocarpus, Juniperus, Pinus hupensis, Pinus thunbergii, Elm, Fraxinus chinensis, Oak, and Phoebe chinensis, they can also be twisted and pruned before budding in March to further improve their shape. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, peach, winter jasmine, and bell, intensive pruning can be carried out after flowering but before budding.

(I) Types of flowers suitable for balcony planting It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for everyone to live on the first floor and have a good environment for growing flowers. Most people plant some ornamental plants with strong resistance on the balcony to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create an atmosphere of returning to nature.

　　The ornamental plants suitable for planting on the balcony are drought-resistant plants, which have hyperplasia of the body surface or cuticle, or are covered with wax, or have thick fleshy plants with more juice, or have small leaves that are transformed into thorns and rarely consume water through transpiration, or are native to arid desert areas and can withstand wind and heat, so they are very drought-resistant, such as iron trees, cacti (yellow hair palm, mountain shadow fist, green lock dragon, golden amber, big wheel column, Prajna, rat tail palm, coral tree), purslane trees, jade trees, gem flowers, stone lotus, lithops, epiphyllum, euphorbia, leaf cactus, longevity flowers, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris radiata, silver-bud taro, Guangdong evergreen, spider plants, etc. These flowers are generally not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and will not die, so they are more suitable for balcony planting. There is another type of flowers that are more resistant to sunlight exposure and dry hot winds. They can accept full sunlight and can withstand short-term abnormal high temperatures. They are also suitable for potted plants on balconies (especially high-rise balconies), such as pomegranates, roses, banyan trees, orchids, Ligustrum lucidum, agave, amaryllis, photinia, oak, elm, maple, bayberry, black pine, juniper, juniper, cypress, holly, holly, yellow vitex, euonymus, peach, sunflower, etc. In addition, jasmine, pearl orchid, five-needle pine, Milan, orchid, bergamot, daisy, lemon, rubber tree, monstera, spring feather, camellia, Schefflera arborvitae, Araucaria, etc. can also be used as potted plants on slightly lower balconies, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(2) Propagation of balcony potted flowers: Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potted plants, such as impatiens, colorful peppers, winter coral, marigold, impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

　　If you have collected a small amount of asparagus fern or Clivia seeds, you can sow them indoors first after washing them. When the outdoor temperature reaches about 15℃, you can move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

　　Succulent plants such as Euphorbia milii, Epiphyllum, Jade Plant, Gem Flower, Echeveria, Portulaca oleracea, Coral Tree, and Cynanchum wilfordii can be propagated by cuttings indoors using plain sand or clean sandy loam at this time, and then moved to the balcony after the spring returns and the weather warms up.

　　Use large flower pots filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting media, and propagate gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, podocarpus, rose, pomegranate, begonia, nandina domestica, daphne, and palustris by cuttings near indoor windowsills with better light. However, the mouth of the pot should be covered with plastic film to keep it moist.

　　On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, brocade pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., they must be bagged to retain moisture, otherwise they will not easily survive.

(III) Management of balcony potted flowers

      1. Cold protection Most ornamental plants suitable for balcony potting should be kept indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation and cold protection, ventilation and light exposure, the plants that need to be repotted should be repotted in time. For flowers and trees with strong resistance placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it is easy to cause the potted flowers and trees to freeze, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but also cause the death of the plants in severe cases. You can take measures such as building a shed on the spot for protection or moving them indoors or in a shed for cold protection.

　　2. Pruning: For tree stumps such as wintersweet, holly, holly, black pine, five-needle pine, Podocarpus, maple, elm, photinia, bayberry, and Ligustrum lucidum, pruning and shaping can be carried out. The trunks and branches that need shaping can be shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be changed; bonsai placed on the balcony, to keep the pot soil moist, water it every 3 to 5 days, and spray it appropriately. Plum blossoms, winter jasmine, golden bell, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote them to maintain a good plant shape. The plants should be thoroughly cleaned, and branches and leaves infected with diseases and insects should be cut off and destroyed; the dry cross-sections on the stumps can be coated with lime sulfur for anti-corrosion treatment.

　　3. Preparatory facilities If conditions permit, you can also build a small pool on the balcony, support it with a hard board (cement steel prefabricated), use the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool, and place some flowers that prefer humid air on it in summer, such as orchids, turtle leaves, green giants, little angels, rich seeds, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is ideal for watering flowers.

　　In March, before the potted flowers are taken out of the house, you can build a stepped rack on the balcony to place the potted flowers, and select the support points for hanging the summer sunshade net. Once the potted flowers are taken out of the house and encounter excessive sunlight, you can quickly implement the shade measures.

　　In March, you should also prepare the culture soil for repotting, and stockpile all kinds of fertilizers and pesticides to meet the needs of growing flowers on the balcony throughout the year.

  Summer management of potted flowers

 The hot summer is not only a very busy stage for flower production, but also an important stage for the technical management of potted flowers. Mastering this technical link has an important impact on the quality and benefits of the product. 
1. Watering
    In the hot summer season, especially at sunny noon, the temperature of the flowerpot soil and the body temperature of the flowers often exceed 30℃. The water in the pot soil evaporates quickly, so water the water-deficient plants as soon as possible. If the flowers lose too much water, the leaves will lose their green tips at the least, and the buds will fall off at the worst. It is necessary to decide whether to water according to the soil moisture conditions. It is best to water between 10 am and 12 pm, not in the afternoon, and it is best not to water in the evening. Because the pot soil is moist at night, the plant grows faster and is easy to wilt under the scorching sun the next day. In summer, many areas also enter the rainy season, so pay attention to make preparations for waterlogging. To prevent water accumulation in the flowerpot after continuous rainfall, the water in the flowerpot should be removed in time to prevent the roots of the flowers from being soaked in rain for a long time and being damaged.
2. Fertilization
     For flowers that are growing vigorously in summer, topdressing should be applied frequently to ensure that they can thrive, such as hibiscus, lotus, chrysanthemum, rose, etc. For flowers that are in a slow growth stage in summer, less topdressing or no topdressing should be applied, otherwise it will have an adverse effect on their growth, such as Clivia, Strelitzia, Asparagus, Crassula, etc.
3. Light
    Sunlight is the light of life for plants, because without it, plants cannot survive. Sufficient light is a good thing for sun-loving plants, but it will cause harm to shade-loving plants. Flowers that should be placed in a sunny place for maintenance include: Croton, lotus, banana root, broom grass, salvia, poinsettia, rose, etc. They must receive enough light so that the plants can grow stronger. Flowers that need to be maintained in the shade include: Monstera, Begonia, Pothos, Hosta, etc. Shade nets should be used to shade them. Some flowers prefer semi-shaded places. They can be placed under large flowers and their leaves can be used to block the strong sunlight.
4. Ventilation
    Keeping the environment well ventilated is also an important part of summer flower pot management. The air circulation should be maintained in the cultivation site so that the plants can use CO2 in the air for photosynthesis, thereby making the tissues more substantial to ensure a longer lifespan. In the hot summer and autumn seasons, for ferns whose conducting tissues are not well developed, excessive ventilation often causes the leaves to dry out. There are also some flowers that should be taken care not to place them in the wind.
5. Temperature
    In summer, the management of potted plants is mainly reflected in cooling. Even for plants native to tropical areas, excessive temperatures exceeding 35°C are extremely unfavorable to their growth and development. It belongs to the continental monsoon climate, and the phenomenon of high temperature in summer is very common. Therefore, in many areas
, when managing flowers in summer, the temperature must be controlled and not raised too high. The specific method can be comprehensively regulated through ventilation, shading, water spraying and other measures. Try to control the temperature within the more suitable range for potted flowers. 6. Pruning
    Summer is the vigorous growth stage of potted flowers, so pruning should be carried out in time according to the growth conditions of the plants. For example, during the growth process of banyan trees, bougainvillea, roses and other plants, the side branches and sprouts should be cut off in time to ensure that nutrients are better supplied to other organs. Some species, such as dahlias, chrysanthemums, and red safflowers, should be pinched in the seedling stage to promote new branches, so that they can have a better plant shape. For branches and leaves that have been infected with diseases, they should be cut off as soon as possible and burned in time to prevent them from spreading.

How to Water a Stump Bonsai

　　Bonsai tree stumps are planted in pots. Generally, the pots are shallow and the soil is thin. It is difficult to keep the moisture in the pot soil. In addition, the temperature is high in summer, and the moisture is easy to evaporate. The tree stumps need a lot of water. If the tree stumps are not watered in time, they will lack water, dry stumps, and the pot soil will dry up and die. In order to correctly meet the watering requirements of tree stumps in summer, you must master the following points:

　　1. You must control the temperature of the pot soil and water. Generally, when watering, the temperature of the pot soil and water should be the same or similar. If the difference between the temperature of the pot soil and water is too large, do not water. When watering in summer, you must control the water temperature to be the same or similar to the soil temperature and air temperature before watering.

　　Second, pay attention to the quality of water for watering. It is better to water the tree stump bonsai with rainwater, river water, or pond water. Especially for the tree stumps in the south that like acid, it is best to water them with rainwater, but river water or pond water is also acceptable. However, in the north, due to the alkaline soil, river water and pond water also contain a lot of saline and alkali components. Using this water to water flowers is not conducive to the growth of acid-loving flowers and trees. At this time, if there is no rainwater for watering the stumps, you can dilute it with well-rotted rice washing water before watering the stumps. In addition, tap water and wastewater from goldfish tanks can also be used to water neutral and alkaline stumps. If tap water is used, it must be exposed to the sun for a few days to allow the chlorine in the water to run away before watering. Laundry water containing soap, saline and alkaline water, and chemically polluted water must never be used to water the stumps.

　　3. Watering depends on weather changes. In addition to watering thoroughly once in the morning and evening every day, you should also spray and water around noon. In addition to spraying the leaves, pot surface, and pile body, you should also spray water on the ground of the pot frequently to maintain the air humidity around the pot to prevent the leaves of the pot from turning yellow, dry, or burnt. Do not water on rainy days, and do not allow water to accumulate in the pot to prevent long-term water accumulation from rotting the roots and causing the pile to die.

　　Fourth, it depends on the size, depth and quality of the pot. For tree stumps with small and shallow pots, watering is more frequent. For large and deep pots, the soil in the pots contains more water and is not easily evaporated, so watering is less frequent. Watering should be treated differently according to the quality of the pots. Clay pots have good water permeability, and the soil in the pots evaporates easily and dries easily, so watering should be more frequent and the amount of water should be larger. Ceramic pots, stone pots, glazed pots and plastic pots have airtight and watertight walls, and the soil in the pots is not easy to dry, so watering should be less frequent and the amount of water should be smaller.

　　The best time for osmanthus cuttings is May and June

　　It is difficult to propagate osmanthus by cuttings. If you propagate in May or June and pay attention to the following steps, the propagation speed will be fast and the survival rate will be high.

　　1. Choosing the time for cutting and controlling the temperature. Generally, it can be done from April to July, but the best time is May and June. The most suitable rooting temperature for osmanthus is 25℃～28℃. If the temperature is too low, cover it with plastic film, increase the light and raise the temperature of the seedbed. If the temperature is too high, pay attention to shade, and lift a corner of the plastic film to ventilate or spray to cool down.

　　2. Cutting medium and seedbed. The cutting medium should be loose and breathable, well-drained, acidic soil or sandy soil with high humus, preferably vermiculite. There should be passages around the seedbed and drainage ditches should be opened. The soil should be disinfected before cutting. A 45 cm high plastic arch shed is set up on the seedbed to retain moisture and prevent rain and water accumulation. A shade shed about 1.6 meters high is built on the shed.

　　3. Selection and processing of cuttings. Cuttings should be taken in the morning, evening or on cloudy days. Cuttings should be semi-lignified branches, cut into 10-12 cm long, with the lower end cut into a horseshoe shape close to the node, and 2-3 leaves left on the upper end.

　　4. Cutting Techniques: Dip the lower end of the cuttings in ABT rooting powder or soak them in 200×10～6～500×10～6 (i.e. 200PPM～500PPM) indolebutyric acid for 5～10 minutes, and bury them 2/3 into the soil, with a spacing of 6×6 cm between rows and plants. Water thoroughly after planting, and then cover with plastic film.

　　5. Management after cutting. 1. The soil humidity should be around 50%, while the air humidity should be kept above 85% for the best. 2. In the early stage of cutting, the shade of the shade shed should be kept at around 80%, which can prevent strong direct sunlight and ensure sufficient scattered light to facilitate photosynthesis of leaf cuttings and rooting. 3. After 10 days, spray the leaves with 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate or 0.5% superphosphate and 0.1% urea solution once. 4. After 30 days, the roots are basically formed, the film can be removed, and the light can be increased. However, for the seedlings after rooting, attention should still be paid to leaf spraying and shading on sunny days in summer. In early winter, when the temperature is below 5℃, cold prevention measures should be taken. 5. In order to make the seedlings grow strong, 0.05% "leaf treasure" can be sprayed on the leaves, and do not fertilize from the root system. It can be transplanted to pots in September to October or the spring of the second year.

Management of dormant flowers

　　In the hot summer, some bulbous flowers and other flowers grow slowly, their metabolism weakens, and they adapt to the high temperature of summer by dormancy. For example, the leaves of begonia, clivia, geranium, etc. remain green after dormancy, which is called evergreen dormancy; the leaves of daffodils, hyacinths, cyclamen, tulips, etc. fall off after dormancy, which is called deciduous dormancy. Therefore, in summer management, it is necessary to master the physiological habits of these flowers and manage them carefully so that these flowers can survive the summer smoothly.

　　1. Reduce light and increase ventilation. After summer, dormant flowers should be placed in a ventilated and cool place to avoid direct sunlight. If conditions permit, a sunshade can be built, and water should be sprayed around the pots frequently to achieve the purpose of lowering the temperature and increasing the humidity.

　　2. Water at the right time and control the amount of water. Summer dormant flowers do not require much water, so the amount of watering should be strictly controlled. When flowers are dormant or semi-dormant, their root activity is weak. If you water too much and the soil is too wet, it will easily lead to root rot; if you water too little, it will easily cause the roots of the plants to shrink. Therefore, it is better to keep the soil slightly moist.

　　3. Avoid rain and water accumulation. Because there is a lot of rain in summer, water will accumulate in the pots of dormant flowers after being exposed to rain, which can easily cause the roots or bulbs of the plants to rot and cause the leaves of evergreen dormant flowers to fall. Therefore, potted flowers should be placed in a place that is sheltered from wind and rain, so that they can be ventilated and light-permeable, and sheltered from wind and rain.

How to water potted flowers

　　In summer, potted flowers should be watered more often. Watering should be done in the early morning when the temperature of the pot soil is low. Watering should be done thoroughly, that is, water should flow out from the bottom of the pot. Try not to water during the day. If the evaporation is too large, you can water it appropriately in the evening according to the dryness of the pot soil. Some flowers with fleshy roots, such as Clivia, should be watered more. Try not to expose them to the sun too much to reduce water evaporation. At noon, you can spray water on the leaves to increase humidity. In addition, there are some more drought-resistant flower varieties that should be watered less, mainly cacti, cacti and other succulent plants such as Crassulaceae. They originally originated from arid desert areas. Generally, they will not die from drought. Instead, they will rot if they are watered too much.

　　How to fertilize potted flowers

　　Most families who grow flowers always think that they should apply more fertilizer in summer. In fact, this is a misunderstanding. Flowers in summer also need nutritional supplements, but this nutritional supplement is only to maintain its daily life activities, and cannot be used for the growth of nutritional organs. After applying more fertilizers, it is difficult for plants to absorb, and the accumulation of inorganic nutrients causes the salt content of the potting soil to increase, which in turn damages the root system of the plant and causes seedling death. Of course, it is not a generalization. Generally speaking, flowers that bloom in summer are relatively resistant to high temperatures, so more fertilizers should be applied appropriately, such as crape myrtle, jasmine, impatiens, dahlia, cockscomb, hollyhock, etc. Applying some fertilizers (compound fertilizers) during the flowering period can make the flowers flourish and look more beautiful. For some fruit-viewing flowers such as five-color pepper and kumquat, applying phosphorus fertilizer after the flowers fade will help to produce more fruits. For tropical foliage plants such as rubber trees and monstera, some nitrogen fertilizers can be applied to make their leaves grow bigger and greener. Another point is that when fertilizing flowers in summer, thin fertilizers should be applied frequently. Too high a concentration can easily cause fertilizer damage.

　　Three fears and four musts of five-needle pine bonsai

　　Through years of cultivating five-needle pine, it is found that there are "three fears and four musts" for five-needle pine bonsai.

　　The "three fears" are: First, fear of too much fertilizer. The five-needle pine requires thin fertilizer and less fertilizer. Only thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once a year from August to October. If it grows vigorously in spring, you can apply less fertilizer, and no fertilizer should be applied at other times. Beginners who grow pine trees often think it grows too slowly and want to apply more fertilizer to make it grow faster, but the result is counterproductive. Second, fear of water accumulation in the pot. If you water too much, the air circulation in the pot will be blocked, causing the roots to rot, the branches to wither and the leaves to wilt. As the saying goes, "dry pine and wet cypress" is for this reason. Third, fear of frequent potting. Potted plants only need to be repotted once every 3 to 4 years, and the time should be from late September to early October, or from February to March. However, some pine growers choose pots for shape, but repot at inappropriate times, resulting in death due to too frequent potting.

　　The "four musts" are: First, it should be exposed to sunlight more often. It is best to place it in a sunny and ventilated place. When the air is dry, you can spray water on the leaves twice in the morning and evening. Second, pruning should be done during the dormant period to prevent excessive sap loss and damage to its vitality. Third, it should be placed in a ventilated, sunny, warm, humid, and smoke-free room for maintenance in winter. Fourth, it should be observed frequently to prevent and control pests and diseases in a timely manner.

　　How to prune cacti

　　Cactus flowers grow relatively slowly and have underdeveloped root systems, so pruning is needed to regulate the rational distribution of nutrients, coordinate the balance between the underground and above-ground parts, and prevent the bulbs and nodes from becoming too many and too large and deformed.

　　In spring and summer, 2 to 4 tender stem nodes sprout from the top of the flat stem node of the cactus, forming a "top-heavy" leaning plant shape that lacks vitality. In order to obtain thick and strong stem nodes as rootstocks, only a maximum of 2 tender stems are retained on each stem node, and the tender stems that are not in the right position, weak in growth, or squeezed and twisted are removed to keep the cactus upright.

　　Most cacti have short hair balls with 11 to 15 ribs. Multiple side balls sprout from the areoles in summer and autumn. If you are growing cacti for viewing flowers, remove the side balls immediately with tweezers when they appear, so that the stem ball has sufficient nutrients and is conducive to flowering next year. If you want to cultivate side balls, only remove the thin, overcrowded and side balls growing on the top of the main ball.

　　New leaf-like branches sprout from the base of the cluster-like plants of Euphorbia obesa from time to time. The pruning principle of "one thinning and two controlling" should be mastered, that is, thinning out weak branches, deformed branches, branches with incorrect orientation, and old branches that wither after flowering; gently pinch and break the top of the strong leaf-like branches grown that year with your hands to injure the growing point, thereby controlling its height growth, promoting the fullness and fullness of the leaf-like branches, and facilitating their development into flowering branches.

　　Xianrenzhi cuts off the overlapping branches and paper-thin branches from the nodes, and keeps one, two, four, or eight branches in each stem segment, and cuts off the rest. If there is a skewed crown, keep the drooping branches on the skewed crown side and cut off the upward branches to weaken their growth potential; keep the upward branches on the other side and face the sun to enhance the growth potential. After 1 to 2 growth periods, the crown width of the flower plant will be perfect.

Summer flower cultivation management

Summer is hot and rainy, with plenty of sunshine. It is the peak season for some flowers to grow, and some flowers are in dormancy. In order to make the flowers pass through this stage smoothly, we should strengthen management in terms of watering, shading, and prevention of pests and diseases.

　　General maintenance measures Watering: The high temperature and strong sunshine in summer greatly accelerate the evaporation of water in potted flowers, which can easily cause drought. Therefore, it is particularly important to water potted flowers properly in summer.

  The impact of hot summer on flowers

  Water, air and temperature are necessary conditions for the growth of flowers. In summer, high temperatures bring great harm to the growth of flowers. When the temperature reaches 38℃, many flowers will grow poorly, which is manifested by accelerated respiration, weakened photosynthesis and obstructed nutrient movement. If the temperature is higher than its heat tolerance, it will tend to die. Even flowers that are used to growing in tropical areas will find it difficult to grow normally if they are not carefully maintained. To this end, the following management measures are proposed:
　　
　　1. Shading: Flowers in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses should be shaded with shade nets to prevent direct sunlight from burning the flowers. Those cultivated in the open field should also be shaded.
　　
　　2. Frequent watering: Frequent watering in the morning and evening to increase humidity and reduce temperature. If there are sprinkler or drip irrigation facilities, the effect will be better. Usually, the temperature can be reduced by 2~5℃ after watering.
　　
　　3. Frequent ventilation: Add ventilation equipment in the greenhouse or greenhouse. In order to introduce fresh air and remove indoor heat and harmful gases. 4.
　　
　　Disease prevention and pest control: Prevent wind and rain, and prevent diseases and insect pests in time.

How to prevent heatstroke and keep flowers from withering

   Temperature is a key factor affecting the growth of flowers. Strong light and high temperature in summer can easily cause flowers to be burned and affect their growth. If you want to make flowers spend the summer safely, you should take the following measures.
　　1. Shading and temperature control In the hot summer season from July to September, shade the flowers in the flowerbed with a shade net, or move the flower pots to a shade shed, under the shade of a tree, or in a well-ventilated room without strong light, maintain ventilation and scattered light conditions, prevent strong light exposure, and reduce the temperature.
　　2. Spray water to cool down In addition to being affected by light, temperature is closely related to changes in water. Water has the function of absorbing heat, so spraying water has a cooling effect. Drought and lack of water during the high temperature period in summer and autumn can easily cause plant cells to dehydrate, causing wilting, and in severe cases, the plant will die. During the high temperature and drought period, it is necessary to strengthen irrigation, water in time, or spray water on the ground around the plants, wet grass, and spray on the leaves to increase soil and air humidity and reduce temperature. However, watering should be done in the morning and evening.
　　3. Hormone temperature regulation Spraying 750ppm paclobutrazol, 1500ppm cyanogen or 1500ppm to 2000ppm B9 and other growth inhibitors plus 0.1% to 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate during the high temperature period can inhibit the excessive growth of plants, accelerate the maturation of branch and leaf cells, enhance stress resistance, and alleviate high temperature heat damage. Combined with watering, watering or spraying aspirin (1 kg of water dissolves 1 tablet) can promote the closure of leaf stomata, reduce the transpiration loss of leaf water, and reduce high temperature burns.

　　In summer, the temperature of the pot soil is higher at noon, and the root system absorbs water faster. If cold water is poured at this time, the temperature of the pot soil will drop sharply, affecting the normal function of the root system, making it difficult for the root system to absorb water, destroying the balance of water metabolism of the plant, and causing the plant to wilt, affecting growth. Therefore, it is advisable to water potted flowers in the morning or evening in summer. Generally, do not water when the pot soil is not dry. When it is dry, water it thoroughly, and never water only half of the pot soil. If watering is not thorough, it will cause poor ventilation of the pot soil, which will directly affect the normal physiological activities of the root system, and in severe cases, it will cause root rot. In summer, the pot soil often cracks due to excessive dryness, so watering cannot be completed at one time, otherwise the water will leak directly from the soil cracks to the bottom of the pot, and most of the pot soil is still very dry. The next day, the plant is still seriously lacking in water, causing wilting. Therefore, generally wait for a while after the first watering to let the pot soil swell and loosen, and then water it again after the soil cracks close.

　　When potted flowers wilt, first move the wilted plants to a cool place sheltered from the wind, spray a small amount of water on the leaves and pot soil, and then water thoroughly after the plants have recovered.

　　Fertilization: In the hot season, except for jasmine, roses and other flowers with vigorous growth, it is generally not suitable to fertilize, especially for azaleas that have entered a semi-dormant period, as well as bulbous flowers such as cyclamen and freesia.

　　Shading: For some semi-shaded and shaded flowers, high temperatures and direct sunlight should be avoided in summer. Shading measures should be taken, and water should be sprayed to cool down. Even plants with extremely strong drought tolerance, such as cacti, are still in danger of being burned when the temperature exceeds 38°C. There are often heavy rains in summer, and nutrients are easily lost after water accumulates in the pot soil. Therefore, the pot should be tilted after the rain to drain the rainwater.

　　Pest and disease control: The hot summer is the high-incidence season for pests and diseases. Diseased branches and dead leaves should be removed in time, and supplemented with drug control.

     Orchids

　　Shading orchids are semi-shaded flowers. In midsummer, they should be properly shaded and avoid strong light. It is best to use a shade net to shade the orchid, and place the orchid near the water surface or in a place with fresh air and good ventilation.

　　Fertilization should follow the principle of thin fertilizer and frequent application. It depends on the variety of orchids, the weather, the temperature and the growth strength of the plants. Generally speaking, spring orchids are fertilized with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers in summer; gladiolus is fertilized with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; and winter orchids can be fertilized without any fertilizer. In addition, weak plants should not be fertilized on cloudy days or when the temperature is too high.

　　Watering Although orchids have fleshy roots, they require more water in the summer when the light is strong and the temperature is high, and sufficient water must be ensured. In addition to normal watering, foliar spraying can be performed at noon to increase humidity.

　　Spraying orchids is prone to anthracnose in the rainy season and high temperature season. In addition to improving ventilation and light transmission conditions, timely prevention and control should be carried out when the disease occurs. Spray Bordeaux mixture or methyl thiophanate once every 10 days to prevent and control leaf anthracnose; spray 40% omethoate and trichloroacetate once every half a month to kill scale insects and mite pests.

　　Rain protection: Summer is windy and rainy, especially heavy rain, which will not only break orchid leaves, but also splash the soil with bacteria on the pot surface onto the orchid heart or orchid leaves, causing brown spot disease of orchid plants. Therefore, it is necessary to properly shelter from the rain when encountering heavy rain.

　　Pruning: Orchid leaves that have been damaged by pests should be cut off in time to avoid infection to other orchids. At the same time, orchids that bloom in summer should also cut off the dead flowers and dead leaves to avoid consuming too much nutrients.

　　Begonia

　　: The suitable temperature for the growth and flowering of Begonia is about 23℃. In summer, it likes semi-shaded, cool and well-ventilated environment, and avoids high temperature, waterlogging and strong direct sunlight. When maintaining in summer, follow its "temper".

　　Shading and ventilation should adjust the light time to create an environment suitable for its growth. Shade it. Plants cultivated indoors should be placed in a place with scattered light and air circulation. Windows should be opened at night for ventilation.

    Water moderately. Begonia likes a humid environment, but in the hot summer, it is better to keep the pot soil slightly moist. Do not water several times a day or once every few days. Instead, pay attention to the dryness and wetness of the pot soil at any time. When you see the pot soil turn white, you can water it. The amount of water should not be too much. It is best to water it around 9:00 in the morning. Try not to water it when it is not dry. If you do, water it thoroughly

　　, but you cannot wait until it is completely dry before watering. Classification of fertilization: Summer fertilization of Begonia should be treated differently according to new and old plants. For new plants propagated in the autumn of the previous year, some decomposed thin cake fertilizer water can be applied after each flowering. The fertilizer-water ratio is preferably 1:5, once a week, and twice in a row. It can bloom again after 2 weeks. For perennial old plants or plants with weak growth, when the temperature is above 25℃, stop fertilizing and wait until the dog days are over before fertilizing to usher in the second flowering season.

　　Cooling and humidification: Sprinkle water around the plants and the ground several times a day to reduce the temperature and increase the air humidity. If conditions permit, a sand bed can be set up in a corner of the balcony or courtyard, and the plants can be placed on the sand. When watering the plants, the sand can be sprinkled to wet the sand, which can play a good role in cooling and humidifying.

　　Disease prevention and pest control Under high temperature and high humidity conditions, Begonia is very susceptible to bacterial spot disease. At first, dark brown spots appear on the leaves, which gradually spread to dark brown ring patterns. Before the disease occurs, Bordeaux liquid can be sprayed for prevention, and attention should be paid to improving cultivation conditions and management methods. In the early stage of the disease, the diseased leaves should be removed and burned in time to prevent further spread. Summer is the peak period for aphids and red spiders, and pollution-free pesticides should be used in time to prevent and control them.

　　Clivia

　　Reduce the amount of fertilizer. Excessive fertilization will prevent the roots from absorbing it. As a result, the fertilizer ferments and produces high temperature, which burns the roots of Clivia.

　　Control the light. Around June every year, adjust the sunny side once to ensure that the leaves grow regularly and neatly. In midsummer, let Clivia see 2 hours of morning light every day.

　　Ventilation and cooling In summer, pay special attention to placing Clivia on a pool or basin.

　　Proper watering Although the amount of watering in summer is more than in other seasons, we still need to adhere to the principle of "no watering if not dry, and watering thoroughly if watering". When watering, be careful not to let the water flow into the heart of the leaves, otherwise the leaves will easily rot.

    Rose

　　The reason why potted roses die in summer is mostly because the pot soil is not well prepared, the original pot soil is not repotted and replaced in spring, and the nutrients in the original pot soil are greatly depleted. In this way, the rose cannot withstand the high temperature and dies. Roses are almost in a semi-dormant state in the high temperature season in summer. Some growers see that roses do not bloom or bloom less, thinking that it is due to insufficient fertility, so they apply more fertilizer and concentrated fertilizer. In addition, the high temperature in summer promotes the fermentation of fertilizers, and the roots of roses will be burned.

　　After repotting and changing the soil, place it in a cool place for about a week before normal cultivation. Remove the compacted soil and replace it with loose culture soil.

　　Control fertilization and apply light fertilizer liquid once every 15 to 20 days, and increase the amount of fertilizer in late summer. For roses that have died, wash the roots and change the soil immediately, cut off some branches and put them in a cool place for maintenance.

　　In addition, in summer, you should spray water on the leaves of roses more often. Watering should be done in the morning and evening. It is not advisable to prune the branches too hard. You should also pay attention to preventing pests and strengthening light and ventilation.

　　Azalea

　　Cooling down creates a ventilated and cool environment for flowers. It is advisable to place them in a ventilated and cool place indoors and outdoors to let them breathe fresh air.

　　Moisturizing First, insist on spraying water on the leaves 4 to 5 times a day. At the same time, during the day, put a basin of water under the flowerpot, and put the flowerpot on the water basin with wooden strips. In this way, the water evaporates with the help of high temperature, which can create the air humidity required for the azalea to bloom.

　　Translucent azalea petals often grow inversely proportional to light, especially flowers blooming in high temperature seasons. The petals will shrink when exposed to strong light. As for plant growth, sunlight is indispensable. In order to solve this problem, insist on placing the flowers on the balcony for light transmission from 5:30 to 7:30 every morning to meet the needs of plant growth.

　　Supplementing nutrients When azalea blooms, it is not advisable to supplement nutrients, but it is also necessary to supplement nutrients, especially in high temperature seasons. Be more cautious. Spray a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution on the leaves once a week. In addition, spraying watermelon juice on the leaves and irrigating the roots
 has a good effect.

    Special attention should be paid to pest control in summer flower production. Due to the high temperature season, the resistance of the plants themselves decreases, and some pests and diseases are easy to reproduce under high temperature conditions. Therefore, the threat of pests and diseases is greater than in other seasons. The pests that should be focused on in summer are mainly mites, aphids, leaf eaters such as noctuids, etc., and the diseases that should be focused on are root rot, leaf spot, anthrax, etc. In addition to chemical control, the focus of disease and pest control is to ensure environmental sanitation, such as the surrounding weeds, dead branches and leaves in the flower field, etc. These are the best places for pathogen conidia and many pests to hide and reproduce. They should be cleaned up in time and burned in a centralized manner. At the same time, summer is also a good time to disinfect the soil when the land is replaced. In addition to chemical disinfection, the film steaming method is a good way to save money and time and have good results. The specific method is: after the land is plowed, water it once, then a layer of black ground film is laid on the surface, and the surrounding area is sealed with soil. Under exposure to sunlight, the soil temperature under the film can reach above 50°C. After a period of steaming, most harmful microorganisms, pest eggs, etc. can be killed, achieving better disinfection effects.

What are the key points in summer care of peonies?

   In summer, the peony enters a rapid growth period of leaves. The leaf color deepens and turns green or dark green. The leaves quickly grow larger and thicker. At the same time, the scale buds enter the growth differentiation period. The scale buds are formed in late May, and the leaf primordia are fully formed in July or late August. Whether the summer maintenance work is done adequately will directly affect the flowering situation in the next year. Based on the characteristics of Beijing's summer climate and combined with my actual work, the author elaborates on several key issues and solutions for summer peony maintenance and management.

　　1. Preventing fertilizer deficiency Within half a month after the flowers wither, apply a compound fertilizer mainly composed of phosphate fertilizer, and at the same time, apply some fermented farmyard manure. If the plant does not grow well after flowering, you can also use 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution for foliar topdressing, which can make the plant flourish.

　　2. Watering at the right time: Watering should be done once every seven or eight days, in the early morning or evening. The soil should be kept moist, but not too wet, and water should not accumulate.

　　3. Strictly prevent diseases. In high temperature and high humidity environments, leaf diseases such as peony brown spot and gray mold are most likely to occur. Once the disease is discovered, identify the type of disease in a timely manner and take appropriate measures.

　　1. Brown spot disease, also known as red spot disease, often causes premature leaf withering, affecting the growth of peony. Thoroughly remove diseased and residual parts, spray 50% carbendazim 600 times solution or 3 degrees lime sulfur mixture to kill the pathogens on the plants. After the disease occurs, spray 50% carbendazim 1000 times solution or 65% mancozeb 500-600 times solution, spray once every 7 to 10 days, and spray three or four times in a row. Plant at a moderate density and apply organic fertilizer and compound fertilizer.

　　2. Anthracnose is more common in Beijing, Nanjing, Shanghai, Wuxi, Zhengzhou, Xi'an and other places. Anthracnose often causes peony leaves to have dry spots, diseased stems to twist, and young branches to die. Try to reduce the source of infection. Spray 70% anthracnose Fumei 500 times liquid or 1% lime equivalent Bordeaux mixture or 65% mancozeb 500 times liquid at the early stage of the disease, spray once every 10 to 15 days, and spray two or three times in total.

　　3. Ring spot disease, also known as white star disease, is a common leaf spot disease of peony. It is more serious in Beijing, Changsha, Zhengzhou, Guiyang and other places. Remove the fallen leaves of diseased plants in time, spray 3 degrees of lime sulfur mixture before the plants sprout to kill the pathogens on peony plants. After the disease occurs, spray 1% lime equivalent Bordeaux mixture or 500 times of 50% thiophanate-methyl solution or 500 times of 65% mancozeb solution, spray two or three times in a row, and spray once every 10 to 15 days. Prune dead branches and overcrowded branches and leaves in time to improve ventilation and light conditions.

　　4. Gray mold This disease can occur during the growing season of peony, which is seriously harmful to young plants, causing lodging and withering of seedlings. Remove dead branches and leaves of diseased plants and bury the diseased remains. Once the disease occurs, the following agents can be used for spray control: 1% lime equivalent Bordeaux mixture, 70% thiophanate methyl 1000 times solution and 65% mancozeb 500 times solution, spray once every 10 to 15 days, and spray two or three times in a row. Drain water in time after rain, and do not wet the soil at the base of the plant.

 Management of elm bonsai in summer
 
   Elm likes light, is afraid of moisture, is drought-resistant, and is resistant to high temperatures. Therefore, the management of elm bonsai in summer is different from the maintenance methods of other tree species to ensure that it safely spends the hot summer.
　　1. Prevent waterlogging and excessive moisture. Elm is most afraid of excessive moisture in the soil. Summer is no exception. It is okay to be slightly dry, but it is harmful to be too wet. Elm is more drought-resistant than moisture-resistant. The reason why many elm bonsai (especially new piles) die in summer is mostly due to excessive watering. Too much water, high temperature, or improper fertilizer concentration will cause the root system to rot slowly until it completely rots, causing the elm bonsai to die in summer.
　　2. Sufficient light is required. Elm likes light and can only grow well in sunny places. If there is insufficient light, it will grow slowly, with thin branches, long leaf spurs, light leaf color, and few and weak fibrous roots. Summer is the golden period for elm to take root. Increasing light will promote its vigorous life activities, accelerate photosynthesis and metabolic functions, and make the pile roots further developed and strong. Moreover, there is no sunshine from morning to night in general home flower gardening sites, so there is no need for shade. Even in places where the rooftop platform has a long period of sunlight, as long as the water supply is timely in summer, it is impossible to harm the elm bonsai. The growth of the root system of the elm bonsai depends entirely on whether the light is sufficient.
　　3. Do not prune too much. In addition to the evaporation and heat dissipation of water, the evaporation and heat dissipation regulation function of the plant's leaves is very important. Therefore, in summer, you must not prune the branches and leaves of elm trees on a large scale, so as not to destroy their normal regulation function, causing the water in the pot soil to be unable to evaporate, and the roots to suffocate and rot. Those with mild symptoms will find it difficult to resume normal growth for a while, and those with severe symptoms will die soon.

How to transplant trees in summer

   To improve the survival rate of summer seedlings, a series of measures must be taken. In many years of practical work, the author has gained some experience in the selection of planting materials, soil treatment, transplantation construction and maintenance management, which are summarized as follows:

　　1. Selection of planting materials

　　Summer weather conditions are not suitable for tree transplanting. The high temperature and large evaporation can easily cause plant dehydration. Therefore, when selecting materials, try to select saplings that are vigorous and strong, have a well-developed root system, and are free of pests and diseases. For large seedlings, preparatory measures such as root cutting should be taken before transplanting. It is best to use large seedlings from a nursery that has been transplanted. Although such large seedlings are expensive, they have many fibrous roots, the soil ball is not easy to break, and have strong water absorption capacity.

　　2. Soil treatment before planting

　　The planting soil for transplanting seedlings in summer must be fertile and loose, with good air permeability and drainage. For plots with harmful substances such as construction waste, the tree hole must be enlarged, the waste soil must be removed, and good soil suitable for plant growth must be replaced with well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer. For planting holes with poor drainage, 10 to 15 cm of gravel can be laid at the bottom of the hole or seepage pipes and blind ditches can be laid to facilitate drainage.

　　3. Planting

　　It is very important to plant large seedlings in abnormal seasons. Here we recommend an economical and applicable planting method, namely the hard container seedling method. To use this method, you need to cut off the roots of the trees in advance during their dormancy period and plant the seedlings in containers for maintenance, such as wooden boxes, willow bamboo baskets, etc. During construction, according to the container conditions, do not detach or remove the container for planting in the field, so that the root system of the plant is less damaged and the survival rate of the plant can be effectively improved.

　　4. Strictly control the construction process

　　In summer, due to the high temperature and strong transpiration, trees often die from dehydration. In order to improve the survival rate, in addition to conventional methods, some special measures should be taken during construction:

　　1. Increase the size of the soil ball. In normal seasons, the diameter of the transplanting soil ball is generally 8 to 10 times the diameter at breast height, and in summer it should reach 12 to 14 times. When the diameter of the soil ball is greater than 1.8 meters, it is necessary to consider box board construction.

　　2. Appropriate thinning The amount of thinning should be determined according to the tree species and the weather conditions at the time. In dry and hot weather, more thinning should be done, and vice versa. For evergreen trees, such as cedar and Chinese pine, proper pruning is also required, mainly thinning branches, and the amount of pruning can reach 1/5 to 2/5. Pay attention to the smoothness of the cut and apply protective agent.

　　3. Seedling removal and transportation Tree transplantation should avoid hot and dry weather as much as possible. It is best to arrange seedling removal in the morning or after 4 pm to reduce water loss of seedlings. Spray 1-10% anti-transpiration agent on the crown before seedling removal, and transport the seedlings immediately after removal. If the journey is long, the crown of deciduous trees should be wrapped tightly with non-woven fabrics or colored strips to reduce transpiration water loss of seedlings during transportation. 4. Planting should be timely After the seedlings are transported to the construction site, people should be organized to plant immediately. Apply rooting powder in the pit first, then mix the soil with 2 kg of compound fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus, fill it to about 70%, and then fill it to the same level as the ground.

　　5. Post-planting management

　　1. The number of watering times and the intervals between waterings should be determined according to the actual situation. If there are several heavy rains after planting, the amount of watering and the number of times can be reduced. If there is continuous high temperature and little rain, the amount of irrigation needs to be increased. The amount of irrigation each time should not be too much or too little, otherwise the roots will be soaked or the roots will be affected by drought, which will affect the survival of the transplanted trees.

　　2. Shading: Use a shade shed to shade the tree crown. The size of the shed should be equal to the tree crown. Spray the tree crown regularly to maintain humidity and improve the survival rate of seedlings.

Water, air and temperature are necessary conditions for the growth of flowers. In summer, high temperatures bring great harm to the growth of flowers. When the temperature reaches 38℃, many flowers will grow poorly, which is manifested by accelerated respiration, weakened photosynthesis and obstructed nutrient movement. If the temperature is higher than its heat tolerance, it will tend to die. Even flowers that are used to growing in tropical areas will find it difficult to grow normally if they are not carefully maintained. To this end, the following management measures are proposed:
　　
　　1. Shading: Flowers in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses should be shaded with shade nets to prevent direct sunlight from burning the flowers. Those cultivated in the open field should also be shaded.
　　
　　2. Frequent watering: Frequent watering in the morning and evening to increase humidity and reduce temperature. If there are sprinkler or drip irrigation facilities, the effect will be better. Usually, the temperature can be reduced by 2~5℃ after watering.
　　
　　3. Frequent ventilation: Add ventilation equipment in the greenhouse or greenhouse. In order to introduce fresh air and remove indoor heat and harmful gases. 4.
　　
　　Disease prevention and pest control: Prevent wind and rain, and prevent diseases and insect pests in time.

 

    1. Shaping Many flowers and trees have already sprouted new branches and leaves, and the narrow balcony has become very "crowded". Some flowers and trees can be shortened and renewed by cutting the trunk, such as wintersweet and crabapple. Some can control the size of the plant by pruning overlong branches, such as rubber trees and Michelia. Some flowers and trees can bloom and flourish again after appropriate pruning, such as pomegranates, roses, and Milan.

    2. Watering Balcony potted flowers need to be watered frequently due to their placement, wind, sunlight, etc. I usually use the immersion method to make the pot soil absorb water, and at the same time combine it with leaf spraying. Watering is done before 10 am or after 4 pm, generally to keep the pot soil moist. Woody ornamental plants, such as rubber trees and money trees, are watered once a day, supplemented by leaf spraying; for those that have already nurtured flower buds, watering should not be too much, and spraying water on the branches and leaves can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds; succulent plants can be watered less; plants with larger leaves should be watered more.

    3. Fertilization Potted flowers in May need a lot of nutrients to promote their growth. Use a small amount of compound fertilizer to bury in the flowerpot, or spray 0.3% urea solution or 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution on the leaves. Sprinkle odorless cake fertilizer, manure and other organic fertilizers on the surface of the potting soil, which will seep into the soil with watering and can be absorbed by the plants. For flowering plants, apply liquid fertilizer with nitrogen fertilizer as the main fertilizer and phosphorus fertilizer as the auxiliary fertilizer.

    4. Shading After entering May, the sunlight gradually becomes stronger. The placement of some potted flowers should be adjusted according to their ecological habits. Flowers and trees that like light and are drought-tolerant should be moved to the front of the balcony, such as iron trees, pomegranates, and roses; those that like light should be moved to the back of the balcony, such as Milan. Those that like shade should be moved to a shady place, such as Monstera, rubber trees, orchids, and Clivia. When the sun is too strong, set up a shade net on the balcony to provide appropriate shade.

It is not advisable to use cold water to water flowers at noon

　　At noon in midsummer, the temperature is very high, and the temperature of the leaves of flowers is often as high as 40℃. The roots need to constantly absorb water to make up for the loss of transpiration from the leaves. If you pour cold water at this time, although the water content in the pot soil increases, the root hairs will be stimulated by the low temperature due to the sudden drop in soil temperature, which will immediately hinder the normal absorption of water. Moreover, since the flowers are not prepared at this time, the stomata on the leaves are not closed, and the water supply and demand balance is lost, the plants will experience "physiological drought", causing the leaves to scorch and wither, and in severe cases, the whole plant will die. This phenomenon is particularly obvious in herbaceous flowers, such as geraniums and asters, which are most afraid of pouring cold water at noon in hot weather.

Light and shade

　　July and August are the hottest months of summer, and different flowers need to be treated differently according to their living habits. Flowers that like light, such as poinsettia, pomegranate, hibiscus, fig, Milan, white orchid, etc., should be placed in a sunny place for maintenance. Milan, white orchid, chrysanthemum, etc. need to be slightly shaded at noon. Camellia, azalea, fuchsia, gardenia, Clivia, Nandina domestica, etc. should be placed in a well-ventilated and cool place for maintenance after summer. Nantian flowers need to be maintained under weak light or scattered light, and at the same time, shade, spray water, and cover the pots should be used to cool down and prevent heatstroke.

Water and fertilizer control should be appropriate

　　Different types of flowers have different habits and different requirements for water. Flowers that like moisture, such as Milan, jasmine, oleander and most other flowers, are usually watered once in the morning and once in the afternoon or evening. The amount of watering depends mainly on the size of the flowers and trees, the weather conditions and the degree of wetness and dryness of the potting soil. Flowers grow fast in summer, so it is necessary to provide sufficient fertilizer in time. For general potted flowers and trees, apply well-rotted thin liquid fertilizer once a week; for flowers that like acidic soil, apply alum fertilizer water once every two weeks. Pay attention to watering the next day after fertilizing. 

Timely pruning is beneficial to growth

　　The summer pruning of potted flowers and trees includes pinching, removing buds, removing leaves, thinning flowers, and thinning fruits. For spring-sown grass flowers at home, pinching should be done in time when they grow to a certain height to promote more branches and more flowering. For woody flowers such as kumquats, pinching should also be done when the branches of the current year grow to 15 cm to 20 cm to concentrate nutrients, which is conducive to flowering and fruiting. For some ornamental flowers, such as pomegranates, camellias, and roses, some of the excessive flower buds should be removed to promote large and colorful flowers. For fruit-viewing flowers, such as kumquats and bergamots, some young fruits should also be removed in time. Generally, only one fruit is left on the short fruiting branches, so that the fruit is large and the color is good.

Care for Dormant Flowers

　　Some flowers, such as cyclamen, fuchsia, gloxinia, calla lily, geranium, and Euphorbia obesa, are dormant or semi-dormant during the hot season, when their metabolism is slow and their growth is stagnant. According to the characteristics of these flowers, appropriate measures should be taken to carefully care for them so that they can smoothly pass through the dormant period: 1. Place dormant plants in a cool, ventilated place to avoid strong light and rain, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot or even the whole plant to die. 2. Watering should be strictly controlled. If you water too much at this time, the pot soil will be too wet, which will easily cause root rot; if you water too little, the roots will shrink easily, so it is better to keep the pot soil slightly moist. 3. Stop fertilizing. During the dormant period, since physiological activities are extremely weak, fertilizer is not needed, so do not fertilize. Otherwise, it is easy to cause root rot, etc., and even the death of the whole plant.

　　2. Shade the plants from the scorching sun. When the sun is hot, these plants should be moved to a place that is away from the scorching sun. They can be shaded by bamboo curtains or plastic nets and placed in a ventilated and cool place.

　　3. Stop fertilizing. These flowers are in a dormant or semi-dormant period, and their physiological activities are weak, so they should not be fertilized to reduce their physiological stress.

Hawaiian coconut
likes hot, humid and shaded environment, is afraid of severe cold and is not drought-resistant. Usually it should be placed in semi-shaded place for maintenance. Shade is required in summer. During the high temperature period, it is necessary to pay attention to sufficient watering (water dripping from the bottom of the pot), but water should not be accumulated, otherwise it will easily lead to root rot and even plant death. Fertilization should be applied once a month during the growth period from April to September. Gradually reduce the number of watering after autumn, and the temperature in winter should be above 5℃. Usually, the pot is changed every two years after the spring warms up. Hawaiian coconut may develop brown spot disease and downy mildew, which can be sprayed with fungicides (such as 1000 times solution of carbendazim or thiophanate) for prevention and control.
Anthracnose: This disease often occurs at the tip or edge of the leaf. It starts as a small yellow spot in the shape of water stains, with grayish white or grayish brown in the center, with inconspicuous cloud patterns, and dark brown edges; in the later stage, there are many small black spots on the lesions, arranged in a ring pattern, and finally the lesions dry up. The disease is serious under the conditions of insufficient light, poor ventilation, and excessive nitrogen fertilizer. Strengthen lighting and ventilation, and pay attention to the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium when applying fertilizer. If disease occurs, remove and destroy diseased leaves in time. In the early stage of the disease, spray the plants with 80% anthracnose WP 800 times liquid or 50% carbendazim WP 600 spray liquid or 50% thiophanate-methyl WP 600 times liquid or 75% thiophanate-methyl 1000 times liquid mixed with 70% thiophanate-methyl 1000 times liquid. The latter has the best effect. Spray once every 10 days for 3 to 4 times in a row.

Scale insects: In conditions of poor ventilation, poor light, high temperature and high humidity, plants are easily damaged by a variety of scale insects. During the peak period of nymph hatching, spray the plants with 1500 times dilution of 25% cypermethrin wettable powder, 2000 times dilution of 40% cypermethrin, or 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate EC.

1. Lighting: The placement should meet the lighting requirements as much as possible. Halls and meeting rooms are required to receive 2-3 hours of diffuse light or reflected light, with a light intensity of more than 1400 lux; offices, bedrooms, and living rooms are required to receive 1-3 hours of diffuse light or reflected light, with a light intensity of more than 1000 lux; corridors and hallways must receive light intensity of more than 900 lux.

2. Watering: When the plants are placed indoors, they should not be watered too much. Water them thoroughly when they are dry. Do not water them halfway. In addition, you can use a watering can or a small sprayer to spray water on the leaves twice a day in summer and once a day in winter to increase humidity and clean the dust on the leaves to facilitate photosynthesis.

3. Fertilization: Apply 5‰ compound fertilizer water once every half month or spray 1‰ urea on the leaves once a month. In addition, watering the flowers with rice water can also have a fertilizing effect. For convenience, you can also sprinkle a few grains of compound fertilizer on the surface of the pot every week.

4. Pest and disease control: Do not use highly toxic pesticides indoors. Aphids can be sprayed with 1‰ laundry detergent or mosquito repellent (not too much). Powdery mildew can be wiped clean with an alcohol cotton ball. If the damage is serious, move it outdoors for symptomatic control.

5. Timely replacement and maintenance: If the leaves are found to be wilting, yellowing, falling leaves, or dull and lifeless, they should be replaced in time for recovery and maintenance. During this period, direct sunlight should not be allowed to shine, so as to prevent sunburn or large-scale evaporation and water loss, wilting and death. If there is no shade, a black shading net can be artificially built with a light transmittance of 70%-75% and a light intensity of 1500-3000 lux. The maintenance site must have fresh air, but strong winds must be prevented. It is not advisable to change the pot in the early stage of maintenance. Because at this time, the tissues and functions of the plants are in a sluggish state, and once the soil is moved, the root system will be damaged. Only yellow leaves, dead leaves, diseased leaves, etc. should be cut off, water appropriately, and at the same time, thin and clear fertilizer water should be used once a week, and gradually increase after one month. After two to two and a half months, increase to the normal concentration for seedlings. After vitality is restored, change the soil and pot according to the growth. The pot soil should be half leaf mold and half sandy loam. The base fertilizer should be dry pig manure, with a little bone meal and oil residue, because bone meal and oil residue are slow-acting fertilizers, which can slowly take effect after the plant is moved indoors. The bottom of the pot must be empty and permeable to prevent waterlogging and root rot when the air is blocked when it is moved indoors again.

　　Types of flowers suitable for courtyard display In June, the monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24℃ and 26℃, entering the early summer season, and the Yangtze and Huaihe River basins enter the plum rain season. The ornamental plants that can be displayed in the courtyard this month are some potted flowers and trees with strong resistance, including: roses, Araucaria, five-needle pine, Podocarpus, black pine, brocade pine, white pine, Armand pine, spruce, Japanese fir, cycads, Canary date palm, palm bamboo, South American iron tree, four-season osmanthus, areca palm, king coconut, bottle coconut, beautiful needle palm, spotted stump tree, weeping fig, small-leaved fig, oleander, gardenia, Brazilian iron, money tree, Dutch iron, jasmine, pearl orchid, white orchid, Milan, Michelia, pomegranate, bougainvillea, ivory red, hydrangea, Deutzia, sea daffodil, Croton, hibiscus, crape myrtle, five-color plum, shrimp flower, Schefflera, broad-leaved Mahonia, star anise, golden coral, etc. The herbaceous plants include: coleus, medallion, nasturtium, impatiens, bromeliads, anthemum lily, summer-flowering cattleya, daylily, ground nasturtium, canna, clematis, the Hulk, green ivy, monstera, spring feather, and angel philodendron.

　　Garden flower breeding string 1

　　1. Sowing The types of woody flowers that can be propagated by sowing in June include: Cycads, Canary date palm, Mahonia, loquat, and wintersweet. The soil covering for loquat sowing should not be too thick, as the seeds have poor soil-topping ability. Just cover them with about 2 cm of fine soil, and then cover with straw to keep them moist. After the wintersweet fruit matures, the brown seeds will be removed from its pot-shaped fruit capsule. Soak them in cold water for 24 hours, and then bury them in wet sand to germinate. After about 2 weeks, when the seeds crack and turn white, they can be sown in the field. The sowing row spacing is 15 to 20 cm, the furrow width is 10 cm, the furrow depth is 5 to 8 cm, and the fine soil is covered by 2 to 3 cm. Finally, cover with straw to keep it moist. When about 50% of the seeds are unearthed, gently remove the covering straw in 2 to 3 times. In June, the types of grass flowers that can be sown include freesia and primrose.

　　2. Cutting June is the best time for cutting flowers in the courtyard due to the high temperature and high humidity. The types of flowers and trees suitable for softwood cutting in summer include: osmanthus, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Michelia, purple magnolia, crabapple, snowball, viburnum, coral tree, azalea, summer azalea, rubber tree, winter jasmine, snow in June, pomegranate, hibiscus, jasmine, chrysanthemum, gardenia, five-color plum, bougainvillea, hollyhock, podocarpus, red-backed laurel, hypericum, hibiscus, oleander, cinnabar root, knotwood, croton, crape myrtle, sea daffodil, hemp-leaved hydrangea, broad-leaved magnolia, magnolia, wintersweet, golden plate, boxwood, hydrangea, poinsettia, and red-leaf plum. The types of garden flowers suitable for cutting propagation in June include: impatiens, globe amaranth, nasturtium, umbrella grass, bamboo begonia, coleus, cosmos, marigold, red-green grass, chrysanthemum, begonia, scented grass, and creeper.

 　　  The following is an introduction to summer cutting techniques using Camellia japonica, Osmanthus fragrans, and Camellia japonica as examples. From early to mid-June to the end of July, when new shoots reach semi-lignified, they are cut for cuttings. The substrate is loess, vermiculite, perlite, etc. It is best to use a mixture of rice husk ash that has been leached of alkalinity and river sand in a ratio of 2:1. Cut the cuttings into ear segments about 10 to 15 cm long, leaving only 2 to 3 leaves on the upper part. Soak the lower incision in 500 ml/kg No. 1 rooting powder solution for 10 seconds, take it out and spread it out for a while, and wait for the alcohol in the solution to evaporate before cutting. Generally, the depth of cuttings into the soil is about 1/2 to 1/3 of the ear length, and the spacing between plants is 3×8 cm, so that the leaves do not cover each other. After watering thoroughly with a watering can, set up bamboo bows on the seedbed, cover with plastic mulch to keep it moist, press the mulch tightly with soil blocks on all sides, and build a shade shed to provide shade. Maintain the temperature of the bed surface no higher than 30℃, keep the bed surface moist at all times, drain the accumulated water in the trail ditch in time on rainy days, and it will take root in large numbers after one month.

　　3. Grafting In June, you can use potted wintersweet seedlings as rootstocks in the courtyard to graft fine varieties of wintersweet. However, it is best not to use willow-leaf wintersweet as the rootstock, because its growth rate is significantly slower than the scion, which can easily lead to the abnormal phenomenon of thick top and thin bottom. Use potted white magnolia or purple magnolia seedlings as rootstocks to graft white magnolia. Use wild rose seedlings as rootstocks to bud graft fine varieties of roses. At the end of June, use the current year's hairy peach seedlings as rootstocks to bud graft red leaf plum, peach, purple leaf peach, longevity peach, etc. Use single-petal seedlings of camellia as rootstocks to graft camellia and camellia with tender branches. Use seedlings of daidai as rootstocks to graft daidai with tender branches. Use tassels as rootstocks to graft golden osmanthus and silver osmanthus. In addition, peony bud grafting can be performed in June.

　　4. Layering In June, the types of seedlings that can be propagated by layering in the courtyard include: azalea, hydrangea, weigela, oleander, Milan, pearl orchid, red maple, jasmine, white orchid, rubber tree, wintersweet, osmanthus, camellia, Michelia, snowball, viburnum, hypericum, winter jasmine, and plum blossom.

　　5. Division In June, the types of flowers that can be propagated by division in the courtyard include: kidney fern, calla lily (after flowering), Cyperus rotundus, Dieffenbachia grandiflora, Olea europaea, bromeliads, Haworthia serrata, Chlorophytum comosum, calamus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Allium orchid, Caragana, and Hypericum.

　　Management of Garden Flowers

　　1. Transplantation In summer, some tall flowers and trees are generally not suitable for transplantation without professional skills. However, some smaller flower shrubs can still be transplanted with soil balls. For example, species such as Fathom, Mahonia, Hypericum, Admiralty, Winter Jasmine, Gardenia, Golden Ligustrum, Red-leafed Berberis, Red-flowered Eleutherodactylum, Boxwood, Pomegranate, Hibiscus, Bauhinia, Rose, Spiraea, Summer Azalea, Golden-edged Thousand-headed Cypress, etc., need to remove more branches and leaves than those transplanted in spring. In addition, Camellia, Michelia, Osmanthus, Ligustrum, Elaeocarpus, Cedrus, Juniperus, and Larch, which are about 2 meters in height, can be transplanted during the rainy season as long as they are equipped with large soil balls, do not damage the root system, and cut off some branches and leaves, and strengthen watering and shade management after planting. The types of flowers that can be transplanted and planted in the courtyard flower beds in June include: Cleome, Impatiens, Guinea Balsam, Marigold, Maidenhair, Catharanthus roseus, Salvia, Amaranthus, Celosia, Globe Amaranth, Amaranthus dasyphylla, and Amaranthus rubra.

　　2. Shaping In June, the remaining branches of roses after flowering can be cut back. The hedges in the courtyard, such as boxwood, golden privet, red-leafed barberry, French holly, privet, and small-leafed privet, as well as the boxwood balls, cypress balls, pittosporum balls, heather balls, bayberry balls, and pyracantha balls planted in the ground, also need to be pruned to promote the fullness of the crown shape of the plants.

 　　3. Watering For newly planted trees in the courtyard in spring, such as osmanthus, camphor, Elaeocarpus, Ligustrum lucidum, etc., you can water the roots and spray the leaves according to the dryness of the soil and the dryness of the air. For newly planted flowering shrubs, such as camellia, hibiscus, bauhinia, pomegranate, rose, red maple, golden leaf Ligustrum lucidum, red leaf barberry, broad-leaved Mahonia, golden aniseed plate, golden peach leaf coral, etc., if the plants are found to be lacking water, they should be watered and sprayed in time.

　　4. Fertilization For species that can bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus sinensis, and Hypericum, it is necessary to timely apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. For species that bloom in summer and autumn, such as gardenia, crape myrtle, osmanthus, hydrangea, and hibiscus, it is necessary to continue to apply compound fertilizers. For species of flowers and trees that begin to germinate and differentiate in June, such as peony, camellia, and plum blossom, quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied.

　　5. Disease and Pest Control Pay attention to the prevention and control of boxwood borer larvae that often appear in boxwood and boxwood, and use different pesticides to spray and kill them. For ground-planted flowers and trees such as osmanthus, pittosporum, crape myrtle, and privet, the emergence of various scale insects should be controlled with drugs as soon as possible.

 　　Management of Garden Potted Flowers

        1. Watering In early summer, potted flowers placed in the courtyard should be watered more often, which can be controlled to once a day. Water them after the soil in the pot is dry. When the weather is fine, pay attention to spraying water around the plants. For anthuriums, cymbidiums, phalaenopsis, bromeliads, etc., it is not advisable to water them too much, and it is advisable to maintain a relatively moist and cool environment. In case of continuous rainy weather, the potting soil should be checked in time after the rain. If water is found in the pot, it should be poured out as soon as possible and the soil should be loosened, or the potted flowers should be tilted according to the local weather forecast to reduce the amount of rainwater accumulated in the pot. For cyclamen, peonies, and ranunculus that have entered a dormant state, watering should be stopped and they should be placed in a moist and cool place. For geraniums, fuchsias, clivias, begonias, etc. that are in a semi-dormant state, watering can be reduced to keep the potting soil moist. For potted flowers, if repeated watering and rain cause the potting soil to become compacted, be sure to loosen the soil in time.

 　　2. Fertilization For ornamental plants with vigorous growth, such as Monstera, Arrowroot, Syngonium, Cycas, Aspidistra, Red (Green) Gem, Hulk, Green Emperor, Rubber Tree, Anthurium, Araucaria, Podocarpus, Brazilian Iron, Pachira, White Orchid, Milan, Jasmine, Pearl Orchid, Wintersweet, Plum Blossom, Camellia, Michelia, Azalea, Shrimp Flower, Tortoise, Pyracantha, Pomegranate, Crape Myrtle, etc., you can apply fermented liquid fertilizer once every half month. For species in the state of flowering and flower bud differentiation, you should also add an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For flower species in dormancy and semi-dormancy, fertilization must be stopped. For those succulent plants, such as Jade Tree, Christmas Claw Orchid, Leopard Flower, Sedum, etc., when the temperature reaches above 35℃, you should also stop fertilizing to prevent root rot.