A complete guide to hydroponic techniques for various flowers at home

A complete guide to hydroponic techniques for various flowers at home

  Suitable varieties of flowers for hydroponics

  The effects of hydroponics on flowers such as carnation, asparagus fern, gerbera, tulip, hyacinth, chrysanthemum, calla lily, gloxinia, cyclamen, rose, gladiolus, orchid, dieffenbachia, banyan, rubber tree, green giant, Schefflera arborvitae and bonsai flowers (such as Fukien tea and Osmanthus fragrans) are very good.

  Other plants that can be hydroponically cultivated include Monstera, Milan, Clivia, Camellia, Rose, Jasmine, Azalea, Golden Eleutherodactylum, Dieffenbachia, Violet, Phalaenopsis, Fuchsia, Pinus truncatum, Banana, Rubber Ficus, Brazilian Iron, Begonia, Fern, Palm, etc. There are also various foliage plants. For example, the Araceae family's clustered spring taro, silver-wrapped taro, anthurium, Guangdong spider plant, silver-edged Dieffenbachia; the sedum species of lotus palm, hibiscus palm, and other species of Clivia, Paphiopedilum, Christmas cactus, lucky bamboo, hanging pineapple, Cineraria, Brazilian wood, ivy, coleus, etc. There are more than 100 species.

  Issues that should be paid attention to during hydroponics

  (1) When preparing nutrient solution, avoid using metal containers, let alone using them to store nutrient solution. It is best to use glass, enamel, or ceramic containers.

  (2) If tap water is used to prepare nutrient solution, it must be treated because most tap water contains chlorides and sulfides, which are harmful to plants. Some bicarbonates also hinder the root system's absorption of iron. Therefore, when using tap water to prepare nutrient solution, a small amount of sodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or humate compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. If peat is used as the substrate for hydroponic flower technology, the above disadvantages can be eliminated. If the groundwater quality is poor, unpolluted river water or lake water can be used for preparation.

  (3) Generally, the cultivation water in the pot needs to be replaced every one or two months. You can use tap water, but be careful to leave the tap water for a while before using it to keep the root temperature stable.

  (4) Most hydroponic flowers are negative and neutral flowers suitable for indoor cultivation, and they have their own requirements for light. Negative flowers such as ferns, orchids, and Araceae plants should be shaded appropriately; medium-sized flowers such as Monstera, Schefflera, and Poinsettia are not strict about light intensity and generally prefer plenty of sunlight. They can also grow normally under shade. It is important to ensure the temperature for the normal growth of flowers. The roots of flowers grow well in the range of 15-30 degrees.

  (5) You should pay attention to distinguish the root color of flowers to determine whether they are growing well. When the light, temperature and nutrient solution concentration are appropriate, the whole root or root tip will be white. Please note that it is strictly forbidden to use too much nutrient solution and it is strictly forbidden to shorten the time interval for adding nutrient solution.

  (6) During the growth of hydroponic flowers, if water droplets are found oozing from the leaf tips, it is necessary to lower the water level appropriately to expose more roots to the air and reduce the proportion of immersion in water.

  Preparation of nutrient solution commonly used in water-growing seedlings

  Water propagation uses water as a medium, which does not contain the nutrients required for plant growth. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare the necessary nutrient solution for plant rooting and seedling growth before transplantation. The selection of different plant nutrient solution formulas is the key to successful water propagation. Different plants have different nutrient solution formulas. Here is a widely used nutrient solution formula.

  Versailles nutrient solution formula (grams of various compounds in 1L of water)

  Large number of elements

  Potassium nitrate 0.568

  Calcium nitrate 0.710

  Ammonium phosphate 0.142

  Magnesium sulfate 0.284

  Ferric chloride 0.112

  Total 1.816

  Trace Elements

  Potassium iodide 0.00284

  Boric acid 0.00056

  Zinc sulfate 0.00056

  Manganese sulfate 0.00056

  Total 0.00452

  (Prepare a certain concentration of concentrate first, then dilute with water when using)

  In my personal opinion, it is troublesome to prepare the nutrient solution ourselves when we grow flowers and plants hydroponically at home. We can buy nutrient solution at a flower shop for 2-3 yuan.

  To grow flowers hydroponically, you must understand their habits and requirements.

  Technical requirements for hydroponic flowers

  From the perspective of the plant growth cycle, there are two technical stages in hydroponic flower technology that need to be paid attention to; the first is the seedling cultivation stage, that is, the hydroponic process; the second is the plant product care stage, that is, the user's personal hydroponic process. Through the above two stages of work, following the correct cultivation rules and paying attention to the problems that should be paid attention to during the cultivation process, we can see beautiful, clean, elegant and healthy hydroponic flowers entering thousands of households.

  The establishment and method of the hydroponic seedbed

  The seedbed for water propagation must be watertight. It is usually made of concrete or bricks and covered with film. The width is 1.2-1.5 meters, and the length depends on the scale. It is best to build a stepped seedbed, which is conducive to the flow of water and increases the oxygen content in the water. Electric heating wires for water heating are laid at the bottom of the bed to stabilize the water temperature at the optimal rooting temperature of 21-25℃. Water propagation can be carried out all year round. The water temperature is controlled at around 25℃ by a control instrument. Too high or too low is not good for rooting. Plant seedlings should be shallowly inserted during water propagation, and the water or nutrient solution should be 5-8 cm in the bed. However, in order to keep the plant seedlings stable, clean sand can be placed at the bottom. This method can also be called sand water propagation. Or drill holes in the styrofoam board, or set up a grid on the water surface, insert the plant seedlings on the board and put them in the water. During the rooting process, use a water pump to circulate water regularly every day to keep sufficient oxygen in the water.

  --------The above is a large-scale hydroponics, which can actually be applied to the family. My family just puts it in a large beverage bottle and changes the water every day. After the roots are formed, there is no need to change it every day. In fact, I change it when I remember, which is free-range.

  How to convert soil-grown flowers into hydroponic flowers

  It is a good idea to directly use ordinary soil-grown seedlings and transplant them into hydroponic pots. The specific steps are as follows:

  1. Planting of large seedlings

  Remove from pot: tap the sides of the flower pot gently with your hands. When the soil is loose, you can remove the whole plant from the pot. Remove the soil by hand and gently remove the excess soil (you can rinse it directly with water until it is clean). Wash with water: rinse the soil or substrate stuck to the roots with water. Cut the planting basket: If the head of the plant is too large and the hole diameter of the planting basket is too small, you need to enlarge the hole of the planting basket to facilitate planting. Add nutrient solution: add the prepared nutrient solution to the container. Planting of large seedlings: insert the roots of the plant from the planting basket, be careful not to damage the roots. Fix: fix with sponge, granite or rain flower stone (other solid objects can also be used).

  2. Planting of seedlings

  Planting small seedlings is much simpler than planting large seedlings. The main steps are as follows: Pot seedlings: small seedlings are generally no larger than 8 cm. Wash the roots of small seedlings: take the seedlings directly out of the pot and wash the roots in water, taking care not to damage the roots. Planting small seedlings: insert the roots directly into the planting basket holes and fix them with stones.

  3. Blending of nutrient solution

  Users can purchase and prepare the fertilizers at chemical reagent stores according to the formula provided in this article. At the same time, you can also use urea and other fertilizers for preparation research according to the local fertilizer source conditions, and use them in production after gaining experience. The preparation principle of other fertilizers is to control the total concentration at 0.1-0.2%.

  4. Key points for transplanting flowers

  The water level must be well controlled for hydroponic flowers, preferably low rather than high. The roots can be in the water, or even less (maintain a one-month adaptation period, then increase the amount of water). During the hydroponic process, when water drops appear on the tips of the leaves of the flowers, the water level needs to be lowered appropriately, and direct sunlight should be avoided at the beginning.
 
 
  Clivia can also be hydroponically cultivated, the method is as follows:

  Container selection

  To hydroponically cultivate Clivia, you must first choose a good container. Generally speaking, a transparent glass container is better. If you want to grow a seedling, you only need a glass canning jar. If you want to hydroponically cultivate a large number of plants, you can use fine iron wire to weave a metal mesh with a hole diameter of one centimeter, and then make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or you can use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the metal mesh on the hydroponic box, and insert the Clivia seedlings into the nutrient solution through the mesh. The depth of the flower roots in the culture solution should not exceed the pseudobulb at the root.

  Nutrient solution preparation

  There are two types of nutrient solutions: inorganic and organic. Inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: 1.5 grams of calcium, 0.01 grams of ferrous sulfate, grams of urea, 1 gram of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and 0.5 grams of magnesium sulfate. After the above 5 inorganic salts are prepared, they can be dissolved in 1000 grams of water for use. Organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 grams of fried sesame seed flour, 100 grams of bone meal (made from salt-free fresh bones), 150 grams of bean cake powder, and 50 grams of cooked sesame powder, and then dissolved in 1000 grams of water. Compared with the above two nutrient solutions, organic fertilizer ingredients are rich, but the nutritional content is not high, and inorganic fertilizer ingredients are relatively simple, but the fertilizer effect is large and the effect is fast. In order to complement each other, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, inorganic fertilizer is applied once a week and organic fertilizer is applied once every 5 days.

  Water use

  When hydroponically cultivating Clivia, you cannot use tap water directly. You must use "trapped" water. The so-called "trapped" water means putting tap water in a container and drying it in the sun for 3-5 days to precipitate chlorides such as bleaching powder that are harmful to the roots of Clivia. From the appearance of "trapped" water, the sediment changes from strips to clumps, and the water color is preferably green. After "trapping" the water, the root position must not be submerged but the pseudobulb. If the water level is too shallow, the Clivia cannot get sufficient water supply, and if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During the breeding process, pay attention to observe the changes in water quality. If the roots are found to be yellow or black, it means that there is a lack of oxygen and fertilizer in the water, and the water must be changed immediately.

  Air, sunlight, temperature

  Whether the ventilation of the roots of hydroponic orchids can be handled well is the key to the success of hydroponic cultivation. After a period of cultivation, a layer of moss will grow on the roots of hydroponic orchids. When the moss is too thick, it will seriously affect the breathing of the roots and corrode the culture solution. At this time, you need to use a soft and clean brush to gently brush off the moss layer (you don’t have to brush it very clean, because a small amount of moss on the roots will not have much impact). In addition, you should always check whether there is enough oxygen in the water. The method of inspection is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely in the water, it means that there is no lack of oxygen in the water. If the small fish always floats to the surface of the water, and its mouth and gills are exposed to the water to breathe, it means that there is a lack of oxygen in the water. After finding that there is a lack of oxygen in the water, oxygen must be supplemented. There are two ways: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight treatment, Clivia is a semi-shady plant. Pay attention to light, especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the phototropism of Clivia leaves, it is necessary to ensure that the leaves receive light evenly, otherwise the length of the leaves will be different and the growth direction will be staggered. Generally, the light angle should be adjusted every two or three days. In terms of temperature treatment, the environmental temperature of mature Clivia should be 11℃-25℃, and the temperature of seedlings can be slightly higher, 20℃-35℃. When growing orchids in water, the temperature difference between day and night should be controlled. In winter, it is better to keep it around 20℃ during the day and not lower than 15℃ at night.

 
  After the roses fade, cut off the remaining flowers and let the branches grow for several days. When the first axillary buds on the branches grow stronger and accumulate nutrients, cut three-node cuttings, remove the petioles at the bottom, and use a sharp blade to cut the bottom buds into an inclined surface. Immediately insert the cuttings into a prepared bottle filled with clean water. The cuttings can be inserted into the water 1/3. To reduce the evaporation of water from the leaves, some leaves can be cut off. In the case of light protection, new roots are easy to grow from the incision, so brown bottles should be used. If brown is not available, a layer of black plastic film can be wrapped around the bottle. Put the cuttings on a south-facing windowsill and avoid direct sunlight. //

  When the temperature is high, you can change the water once a week. When the temperature is 15-25℃, it only takes about 20 days for the roots to grow. When the young roots grow to 1-2 cm long, they can be transplanted into pots. Because the young roots grow in water, in order to adapt to the environment, water them once a day at the beginning of transplanting, and then gradually reduce the amount. After shading for a week, it can be exposed to sunlight in the morning and evening, and it will survive.

  The advantages of water-insertion are: simple method, high survival rate, no time limit, and can be cut and inserted after the flowers fade...
 
 
  The characteristic of soilless cultivation is to replace soil with artificial substrate. Hunan Forestry Institute uses solid substrate to cultivate azalea without soil and obtains very satisfactory results. The variety is summer azalea. The crown structure of soilless cultivation is compact, the amount of flowers is large, the flower diameter is large, and there are few diseases and insect pests. It not only improves the quality of flowers, but also greatly reduces the heavy physical labor. It is a cultivation method worthy of promotion.

  1. Preparation of Matrix

  The roots of azalea are very delicate, so a loose substrate is required to facilitate ventilation and drainage. Use 1 part of vermiculite, 1 part of pearl sand, 1 part of river sand, and 1 part of coal slag to mix in proportion. After mixing, sterilize the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover it with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it with clean water several times, dry it, mix it with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, cover it with plastic film for one month, and then it can be potted for use.

  2. Preparation of nutrient solution

  Rhododendron has strict requirements on fertilizer. During the growth period, thin fertilizer should be applied frequently. According to experiments, agricultural compound fertilizer is mainly used, supplemented with trace elements, the pH value is controlled at about 5, and low-concentration foliar fertilizer is sprayed, which can achieve good results.

  Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 grams of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 grams of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water to form a standard solution.

  Preparation of trace elements: add 20g disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, 15g ferrous sulfate, 4g manganese sulfate, 6g boric acid, 0.2g zinc sulfate, 0.1g copper sulfate, and 0.2g ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1ml of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to obtain the full amount of elements. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1g urea, 1g potassium dihydrogen phosphate, 0.02g boric acid, and 0.1g V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

  3. Water and fertilizer management

  Since the substrate has good drainage and air permeability, but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally more than soil culture, just to keep the substrate moist; at this time, the buds and leaf buds are germinating, and the fertilizer requirement is relatively large. Water the plant with a full amount of nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the buds burst, spray foliar fertilizer about 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large. In addition to watering every day, the leaves should be sprayed in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large. It can be changed to watering the nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once to promote the growth of new branches and facilitate the differentiation of flower buds. After entering the dog days, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves. The amount of fertilizer can be reduced to watering the nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the cool autumn, the amount of fertilizer can be gradually increased. Apply a full amount of nutrient solution about half a month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote the healthy growth of flower buds. After winter, the physiological activity of azalea is weak, and it is not suitable to fertilize. It can be watered appropriately depending on the dryness and wetness of the substrate. During the cultivation process, there was basically no disease or insect pest.
 
 
  Hyacinth hydroponics

  Hyacinthus is a plant of the lily family and a bulbous flower. It has full inflorescences of various colors and white roots.

  Hydroponics points:

  (1) Choose a container with a mouth that can hold the bulb. It is best to choose a gourd-shaped container that is small at the top and large at the bottom. Transparent glass is preferred. Some daily utensils such as high-foot wine glasses and wine bottles can be used. You can also choose a large-mouthed container.

  (2) The water temperature should not be too high, preferably below 15°C.

  (3) Place the bulb on the bottleneck. After the roots grow, lower the water level until the roots just touch the water surface. This will allow the roots to fully absorb oxygen and promote root growth. When the roots develop, cover the culture container with black cloth to allow the bulb to develop further.

  (4) In winter, move the container to a sunny location to encourage the plant to grow larger and stronger flowers.

  (5) You can also plant several hyacinths in a fish tank, using sand as the substrate and some shade-loving ferns as the supplement, to create a small landscape with a wild appeal that is also very unique.
 
 
  Gerbera

  A perennial herbaceous plant of the Asteraceae family, with large flower diameters, rich flower colors, and blooming all year round. It likes a warm, sunny, and well-ventilated environment. It is a semi-cold-resistant flower and prefers fertile and loose soil. Gerbera is a good cut flower variety. It can be grown in water for a long time, has high ornamental value, and is also a good absorber of formaldehyde.

  Generally, these plants do not require special management when grown in water. Any container with a certain volume for the roots to expand can be used, and glass containers with open mouths are more conducive to maintaining water quality and root growth. When planting, avoid immersing the leaves in water to prevent rotting; place them under suitable light conditions and they will soon take root; add some water when you find that there is less water to prevent the roots from drying out; when the water becomes turbid, take out the plants, clean the container, and refill it with water. Generally, for plants grown in water, change the water every three days and apply nutrient solution once. The ratio and amount of nutrient solution depend on the size of the plant.
 
 
  Other names: Cloud bamboo, plane grass

  Family: Liliaceae, Asparagus

  Morphological characteristics: Asparagus fern has an elegant plant shape, slender and beautiful leaf-like branches, shaped like clouds, like bamboo but not bamboo, with a graceful and free-spirited posture, and white fleshy aquatic roots. When paired with a transparent container, it is both dignified and beautiful, and looks noble and elegant. It is a good choice for hydroponics.

  Growth habits: like warm, humid and semi-humid environment, the suitable temperature is 15-25 degrees Celsius, the minimum temperature of the motive is not less than 5 degrees Celsius, likes scattered light, avoids strong direct light, avoids dry air.

  Hydroponics tips:

  1) Materials: Select soil-grown plants with good plant shape and vigorous growth, wash off the soil and cut off the rotten roots, then plant them in a hydroponic container and add water to one-third to one-half of the root system.

  2) Maintenance: Change the water every 2-3 days at the beginning, remove the rotten roots in time, and after two weeks, the root system has basically adapted to the environment and has grown aquatic roots. After that, change the water every 5-6 days. When the plant shows strong growth potential, use nutrient solution for cultivation. The nutrient solution should be shallow rather than deep. Replenish it every 10 days in summer. When the sediment of the nutrient industry increases, renew the nutrient solution. Generally, it is renewed every 1-2 months. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, and place the plant in a warm place with strong light.

  Keep the room temperature above 5 degrees Celsius, and spray water on the leaves when the air is dry to maintain high air humidity and clean branches and leaves.
 
 
  Other name: Ivy

  Family: Araliaceae. Hedera

  Because of its dense branches and leaves, it is the most ideal material for vertical greening of indoor and outdoor walls. It is also an excellent ground cover plant. It is suitable for climbing buildings, walls, steep slopes, rock walls and the ground under the shade of trees. The demand for potted plants is increasing.

  1. Morphological characteristics and varieties

  Evergreen climbing vine, with thin and soft branches and aerial roots. The vines grow spirally and can climb on other objects. Leaves are alternate, leathery, dark green, with long petioles. The leaves on the nutrient branches are triangular-ovate, entire or 3-lobed, and the leaves on the flower branches are ovate to rhombus-shaped. Racemose inflorescence, spherical flowers, light yellow. Drupes are spherical and black.

  Commonly cultivated species in the same genus include Chinese ivy (H. nepalensis var. sinensis), Japanese ivy (CV. conglomerata), colorful ivy (CV. discolor), golden heart ivy (CV. goldheart), silver edge ivy (CV. siluerquetn), etc.

  2. Ecological habits

  Ivy is a typical shade-bearing vine plant. It can also grow in a full-light environment and grows well in warm and humid climates. It is not cold-resistant. It is not strict with soil, prefers moist, loose, fertile soil, and is not salt-alkali resistant.

  (III) Reproduction methods

  The nodes of ivy can naturally take root in humid air, and will naturally enter the soil after touching the ground, so it is mostly propagated by cuttings, using nutrient branches as cuttings. After cutting, it needs to be shaded in time, the air humidity should be high, and the bed soil should not be too wet. It will take about 20 days to take root.

  (IV) Cultivation techniques

  Ivy cultivation and management are simple and extensive, but it needs to be planted in moist soil and well-ventilated places. Transplantation can be carried out in early autumn or late spring, and it needs to be pruned after planting to promote branching. In the south, it is often planted in the shade of gardens, allowing it to naturally creep on the ground or on rockery. In the north, it is mostly potted. Potted plants can be tied with various brackets and pulled to shape. In summer, they are maintained under the shade shed and watered less, otherwise stem rot is likely to occur. If this disease occurs, the diseased plants should be separated from the healthy ones, and carbendazim and methyl tobuzin should be sprayed alternately. In winter, they should be placed in a greenhouse for wintering. The indoor air humidity should be maintained and not too dry, but the pot soil should not be too wet. Ivy can be grown hydroponically as a whole plant or by cuttings. It is best to do this in spring and autumn. After the roots grow in the cutting bed, the plant can be placed in a planting basket for root induction. Once cultivated, the ivy is very easy to maintain and is clean and hygienic. It is a good choice for home viewing. The cultivated plant can be treated with the general nutrient solution on the market or the nutrient solution for foliage plants. The concentration of the nutrient solution is generally 1/4 of the original formula.

  (IV) Other effects

  Ivy is not only a good greening plant, but the whole plant can also be used as medicine, which has the effects of dispelling wind, promoting dampness, promoting blood circulation and reducing swelling. It is mainly used to treat rheumatic joint pain, back pain and trauma. Mashing it to extract juice or adding water to boil and wash the affected area can treat sores, swelling, measles and eczema.
 
 
  The Euphorbia pulcherrima is usually propagated by cuttings. From April to early September, healthy branches are cut as cuttings. White latex will flow out of the wound of the newly cut stem segment. You can dip it in plant ash or charcoal powder to prevent the flow of latex, and then leave it in a dry and cool place for 3 to 4 days. Cuttings are done after the cut shrinks. Euphorbia pulcherrima has no close relationship with aquatic plants. When hydroponically cultivated, the principle of pollution-free cultivation must be strictly followed, and new nutrient solution must be replaced regularly to increase dissolved oxygen. The temperature in winter cannot be too low, otherwise the leaves will fall. The concentration of the nutrient solution must not be too high, and it cannot be overly shaded, otherwise it will cause reversion, and the Euphorbia pulcherrima will grow the columnar fleshy stems of the original Euphorbia pulcherrima, affecting the ornamental effect; in severe cases, it will cause root rot and death. The white floating sap of Euphorbiaceae plants is poisonous. In particular, it should not enter the eyes, and be careful not to let children accidentally enter the mouth or eyes. //
 
 
  The Brazilian tree has a strong adaptability to light. In the north, it can be placed in a dark room for more than a month, and in a bright room for a long time. It likes high temperature, high humidity and well-ventilated environment. It likes light and tolerates shade, but is afraid of the sun and avoids dryness and drought. It likes loose, well-drained sandy soil. The suitable growth temperature is 20℃ to 28℃. In winter, it is necessary to prevent cold damage below 13℃ to prevent the leaves from drying up. The wintering temperature is 5℃

  Brazilian wood is mostly propagated by cuttings. The best season in the north is from April to June. The large columnar Brazilian wood, the perennial stem itself contains nutrients and water, and the hidden buds on the stem have a strong regeneration ability. Due to the need for decoration, it can be sawed into stem segments of different lengths for planting, but the end of the stem segment should be sealed with paraffin to prevent water loss or infection, which is particularly important in the dry season in the north. Or choose a mature and strong stem (non-lignified), cut off the top of the stem with leaves, cut the upper leaves in half, peel off the lower leaves, and expose the stem nodes. Each segment is about 10 cm to 20 cm, and cut it into coarse sand, fine sawdust or humus soil 3 cm to 4 cm. The cutting bed is placed in a semi-shaded environment, maintain high humidity, receive 50% to 60% sunshine, and the temperature is 25℃ to 30℃. It will take about 20 to 30 days to take root and sprout, and then be potted. When the stem segment is used as a cutting, it takes a long time to take root, and sometimes it takes 2 to 3 months to sprout and take root. It can also be propagated by water cutting and high pressure, but it must be done under conditions above 25°C. Water cutting propagation means immersing 1/3 of the stem cuttings in water, changing the water every 3 to 5 days, and adding a small amount of carbendazim aqueous solution for antiseptic disinfection, which can promote rapid rooting and sprouting.
 
 
  Common varieties of agave include: gold-edged agave, golden-heart agave, silver-edged agave, green-edged agave and narrow-leaved agave.

  It is strong, likes sunshine, and cannot tolerate shade. It is slightly cold-resistant and can be cultivated in the open field at temperatures above 5°C. The leaves of adult agaves are only slightly frozen at a low temperature of -5°C. The aboveground parts are frozen and rotted at -13°C, but the underground stems do not die. They can sprout and grow leaves the following year and grow normally. It is drought-resistant. It likes well-drained, fertile and moist sandy soil. It usually takes decades for it to bloom in its place of origin, and the mother plant dies after flowering. It does not bloom in Nanjing. It can only bear fruit through cross-pollination.

  Agave can be grown hydroponically all year round in a heated environment. When growing hydroponically, all its roots need to be removed, disinfected with disinfectant, and then soaked in rooting liquid for a certain period of time. During the hydroponics period, attention should be paid to the cabbage loopers that eat its leaves and hearts, thus losing its commercial and ornamental value. If insects are found, they can be captured manually or killed with pesticides.

  For hydroponic root viewing, always take it to a sunny place. Do not place it in a dark place for a long time, otherwise the leaves will turn white and become thin, thus losing their ornamental value. Pay attention to heat preservation in winter. Place it in a sunny place near the window during the day. At night, the glass bottle needs to be placed in a plastic or cardboard box in a room without heating. If the leaves turn yellow or droop down and look listless, it may be frostbite. At this time, you need to take some heat preservation measures. Then place it away from doors and windows. Remember not to place it in the north. When changing water in winter, you can use warm water of 12 to 18 degrees. Agave has strong resistance and can safely survive the winter as long as you pay attention to management.
 
 
  The money tree has a graceful posture, majestic crown and emerald green leaves. It looks elegant and attractive when placed in the family living room.

  The money tree is a perennial evergreen shrub native to the Malay Peninsula and the South Pacific Islands. In recent years, it has been widely cultivated and bred in urban and rural households. For home cultivation, the following four points should be paid attention to based on its habit of liking high temperature and humidity and being intolerant to frost, cold and dryness:

  First, pay attention to the sunlight. The fortune tree likes high temperature, humidity and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for a long time. Therefore, it should be placed in a sunny place indoors during maintenance and management. When placed, the leaves must face the sunlight. Otherwise, the leaves will be distorted due to the light. In addition, spray water on the leaves with a watering can every 3 to 5 days, which is conducive to photosynthesis and makes the branches and leaves more beautiful. //
 
 
  Hydroponic method of Vinca roseus

  Catharanthus genus of the Apocynaceae family, also known as five-petal plum.

  Biological characteristics: Catharanthus roseus is native to eastern Africa. It prefers a warm, slightly dry and sunny environment. The suitable growth temperature is 18-24℃ from March to July, 13-18℃ from September to March of the following year, and the winter temperature is not lower than 10℃.

  Catharanthus roseus is afraid of waterlogging, so do not water the pot soil too much, as excessive moisture will affect its growth and development. Especially for plants that spend the winter indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and it is better to keep them dry, otherwise they are very susceptible to freezing. For open-field cultivation, pay attention to timely drainage during summer showers to avoid waterlogging that will cause the entire plant to die.

  Catharanthus roseus is a light-loving plant that must have sufficient sunlight during its growth period. Its leaves are green and shiny, and its flowers are brightly colored. If it grows in the shade for a long time, its leaves will turn yellow and fall off.

  It prefers fertile and well-drained soil, tolerates barren soil, but avoids alkaline soil. Hardened, poorly aerated clay soil will result in poor plant growth, yellow leaves, and no flowering.

  Reproduction methods: sowing, cuttings and propagation are commonly used.

  Cultivation and management: When the seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them to 10 cm pots, 3 plants per pot. Pinch the tops of the seedlings once when they are 7-8 cm tall, and pinch them twice afterwards to promote more germination and branching, and more flowering. Fertilize once every half month during the growing season, or use 15-15-30 "Huiyou" potted flower fertilizer. Plant in pots or flower beds without pots, and bloom from late May to early November, for more than 5 months. Remove the remaining flowers at any time during the flowering period to prevent the remaining flowers from getting moldy and affecting the growth and ornamental value of the plants. August to October is the seed collection period for Catharanthus roseus, and the seeds should be collected as they mature to avoid losing the seeds.

  Pest and disease control: leaf rot, rust and root wart nematodes are common. For leaf rot, spray with 500 times diluted 65% mancozeb wettable powder. For rust, spray with 2000 times diluted 50% carboxin wettable powder. For root wart nematodes, spray with 50 times diluted 80% dibromochloropropane emulsifiable concentrate.
 
 
  Caiyun Pavilion's hydroponic method

  Euphorbia genus, Euphorbia genus, also known as Triangle Tyrant Whip. Native to South Africa.

  feature

  Caiyunge is a perennial succulent plant. The stem is upright, 34-ribbed, dark green, with beautiful irregular gray-green spots in the center. There are tooth-like protrusions on the edges, and obovate leaves grow on the protrusions. There are many branches, all vertically upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains repeated latex. Caiyunge has a peculiar shape and is rich in exotic style. It is a good choice for table greening decoration.

  Habits

  Caiyun Pavilion likes semi-shade, but requires sufficient scattered light. It can withstand low temperatures of 5 degrees. Caiyun Pavilion likes dryness and avoids long-term moisture, but is very suitable for hydroponic conditions.

  Reproduction

  Caiyun Pavilion is usually propagated by cuttings. In May and September, take a branch of about 10 cm from the mother plant as a cutting for cutting. The cut cuttings should not be cut immediately, as it will cause the cut to rot and lead to the failure of cutting. The cut of Caiyun Pavilion will ooze milk. When cutting, dip it in plant ash or carbon powder and dry it in a cool place for several days. After the cut is fully dry, cut it before cutting, which is very easy to root.

  Key points for water culture care

  1: If scale insects occur, in addition to moving them to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush them off with a toothbrush and then spray 250% liquid laundry detergent to kill them.

  2: The white latex in the stem of the radish is poisonous. Be especially careful not to get it into your eyes.

  How to obtain hydroponic materials

  Cutting and root washing. The cut branches should be dried in a cool and ventilated place for several days, and then inserted into water after the cut is dry, otherwise it will cause rot. New roots will grow after one month. //
 
 
  Hydroponic method of lucky grass

  Lucky grass, also known as Guanyin grass, is a perennial green herbaceous plant of the genus Lucky grass in the Liliaceae family. The leaves are clustered, broad and linear, with a concave midrib and a gradually pointed tail, 15 to 40 cm long; the stems are creeping roots, with roots at the node ends; the flowering period is from September to October, the flowers are lavender, upright, with terminal spikes, about 6 cm long; the fruit is bright red and spherical; it is native to the southwest region, likes warm and humid environments, is relatively cold-resistant and shade-tolerant, has low requirements for soil, and has strong adaptability. Because the lucky grass has a beautiful plant shape and verdant leaves, if we take advantage of its cold-resistant and shade-tolerant growth habits, put it into various goldfish tanks or other glass containers for water cultivation, and then put it on the bar counter or coffee table, there will be water in the tank, stones in the water, and roots in the stones, which are clean and visible, and it is a delicate and elegant work of art. The following is an introduction to its cultivation method.

  1. Material selection. Select plants with dark green leaves, vigorous growth, and no pests and diseases, carefully dig them out of the soil with a shovel, and clean their roots. In the process of digging, pay attention to digging as deep as possible and taking as much soil as possible. There are two purposes for doing this. One is to avoid damaging the roots, which is conducive to the growth of hydroponic cultivation; the other is that because water is transparent, intact roots can show a unique beauty in the water.

  2. Pressing stones. Choose pebbles or rain flower stones used for paving garden paths, wash them clean, and lay a layer of them on the bottom of the glass tank. Place the lucky grass upright on the stones, and then use stones to press its roots to prevent it from falling over. Pour clean water into the glass until the entire root is completely submerged. The transparency of water determines that the pressing stone should also have certain aesthetic skills. The author can design it with his own creativity to highlight his personality.

  3. Management. Since the roots of the lucky grass are soaked in water for a long time, the water will easily produce odor over time, so the water should be changed frequently, preferably once a week. For fertilization, a few drops of nutrient solution or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be added regularly. The lucky grass is relatively shade-tolerant, and 1 to 2 hours of fluorescent light every night can meet its photosynthesis needs. //
 
 
  Cyclamen hydroponic method

  Choose cyclamen and containers Choose cyclamen plants that are 1 to 3 years old, free of pests and diseases, growing vigorously, and about to bloom. It is best to use soilless culture media such as perlite, vermiculite, sawdust, etc. to cultivate them. After changing the environment, the roots will not be damaged, the seedlings will not slow down, and they will adapt quickly. Water-growing containers are simple and economical. They can be used to recycle waste in life. Any container that can hold water, such as fish tanks, tea cups, beverage boxes, wine bottles, and vases, can be used; transparent containers are best, and the roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be fully appreciated. No matter what container is used, its size, height, color, etc. must be coordinated with the cyclamen plant, so that the water-grown cyclamen can show its exquisite, crystal-clear and elegant charm.

  Cyclamen flowering period is generally from October to June of the following year, so the water-raising period is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected cyclamen plants from the pots and wash the substrate to which the roots adhere with 20°C warm water, being careful not to damage the roots. Then place them directly in a container prepared in advance, with the water depth flush with the root zone, and the maximum depth should not exceed 1/3 of the bulb to prevent the bulb from rotting. Finally, place them in a suitable location indoors, add water and nutrient solution regularly. After two to three months of water-raising, when the flowers fade, take the plants out and plant them in the cultivation substrate to spend the summer.

  Water quality and water temperature The best water for growing cyclamen in water is spring water or magnetized water. The water is clean, not turbid, and does not precipitate. It also contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plants. There is no need to change the water during the entire water-growing period. Tap water contains chlorine, which is not good for the growth of flowers, and is prone to turbidity and precipitation. The water needs to be changed every few days and should be avoided as much as possible. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature at the time, generally 10℃ to 20℃.

  ;Light and indoor temperature Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The water-growing container should be placed on a sunny table or windowsill indoors, not directly on the radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15℃ to 20℃, the highest should not exceed 25℃, and the lowest should not be lower than 10℃. Add nutrient solution Cyclamen grown in water should also be supplemented with nutrients regularly during the flowering period. Generally, 50 ml of 1:100 nutrient solution for flowering plants should be added to each plant every 10 days. Mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If you find yellow leaves, small leaves, small flowers, etc., you can add more nutrient solution as appropriate, excluding root rot. //
 
 
  Hydroponic silvergrass

  Chinese name: Libang grass

  Other name: Silver-edge grass

  Family name: Poaceae

  Latin name: Arrhenatherumelatius

  Characteristics: Perennial herb

  Plant height: 50-100 cm

  Flowering period: Summer (June-August)

  Cold resistance: cold resistant (above -5℃)

  Negative tolerance: positive

  Morphological characteristics: underground stems are white and bead-shaped; aboveground stems are clustered and smooth. Leaves are clustered, linear-lanceolate, 30 cm long, about 1 cm wide, with yellow-white edges. Panicles have long stalks, about 50 cm long, and are branched; spikelets have two flowers, the upper flowers are bisexual or female, and the lower flowers are male; flowering period is June-July. Native to Europe.

  Habits: Extremely strong, cold-resistant and drought-resistant, and not picky about soil. In midsummer, the above-ground parts often wither and go dormant, and sprout again in early September.

  Reproduction and cultivation: Usually, division is carried out every 2-3 years, in spring from March to April or in September when new leaves are first sprouted after dormancy. The old plants are dug up and separated. Each plant should have 2-3 new buds and bead-shaped underground stems. Old plants should be pruned every year to prevent the leaves from growing too long. When the underground stems are exposed, soil should be added in time to make the plants vigorous and beautiful. If too much fertilizer is applied or there is a lack of fertilizer during cultivation, the white spots on the leaves will disappear and the leaves will turn green, affecting the ornamental effect.
 
 
    Hydroponic method of Schefflera
  
  Hydroponics of Dracaena: The hydroponics of Dracaena can be obtained by referring to the above propagation method, or directly obtained from soil. The specific method is as follows:

  For root-observing hydroponics, sterilize and kill insects one week before cultivation, and select plants with good appearance for cultivation. If hydroponics is carried out according to the above cuttings (remove the roots of soil-based materials for rapid propagation and rooting), it is best to put the planting basket in it first, and put it into the mutagenesis tank for mutagenesis when the roots grow 5-6 cm long and do not return to land. At the beginning, the concentration of the nutrient solution should be lower. After the plants adapt to the growth environment in the water, the concentration can be increased according to the plants, and oxygenation can also be reduced, and finally stopped. When the roots grow long enough to be bottled, they can be bottled!

  Planting with expanded clay: The rooting process before potting is the same as hydroponics. Do not plant the plant too low when potting, as that will be bad for the future growth of the plant. When the roots of the plant grow out of the pot, it can be sold.

  During the production period, apply fungicide and spray foliar fertilizer once every week. For home maintenance, in addition to referring to the product manual, you should also follow its growth habits, stop fertilizing during the dormant season, place it in a place with strong sunlight, and use less water in winter and early spring for ceramsite planting. If it is placed in a dark place for too long, the leaves will turn yellow and lifeless. Moreover, the tips of the leaves at the base are prone to blackening, as if they were scalded by boiling water. Do not lack water during the growing season.
 
 
  Tricolor Dracaena alias: Tricolor Dracaena, Rainbow Dracaena, Colored Dracaena

  Family: Agavaceae, Dracaena

  Morphological characteristics: small evergreen tree. Thin stem, upright, up to 3 meters high. Leaves 1560 cm long, 12 cm wide, sword-shaped. Green leaves with milky white, yellow-white, and red stripes. A unique variety in the genus Agave.

  Distribution and habits: Native to Madagascar.

  It likes a warm, humid environment with bright scattered light. It is relatively shade-tolerant and avoids strong direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 18-28 degrees. The wintering temperature needs to be above 10 degrees.

  Propagation method: Cuttings

  Hydroponics points:

  1) Water-growing is easy for the plant to take root, and the roots are white and ornamental. Changing the water is the key to success, especially when the plant is just being grown. Changing the water every other day can increase the nutrient content until the roots grow out. After the plant is adapted to water-growing, the water can be changed or added once a week or month according to the season.

  2) When the water temperature is above 35 degrees in summer, the roots are prone to rot. At this time, you should stop using nutrient solution and only use clean water to grow the plants. In addition, you should increase the frequency of water changes to keep the water clear.

  3) Place it in a brightly lit place indoors. Generally speaking, change the water once a month in autumn and winter. If you use a transparent container for water cultivation, wipe off the material attached to the container with a soft cloth while changing the water to make it transparent, so that the beauty of the plant's root system can be better displayed. After changing the water, you can drop a few drops of nutrient solution sold on the market or add some potassium dihydrogen phosphate diluted with 1000 parts of water into the water to provide the nutrients needed for plant growth. If you spray foliar fertilizer or 1000 parts of potassium dihydrogen phosphate as foliar topdressing during the growing season, it can make it grow stronger.

  Can remove: toluene, xylene, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde
 
 
  Tiger tail orchid is a perennial herb with creeping rhizomes. The leaves grow in clusters, often in bundles of 26. The leaves are upright, leathery, thick, with a short tip at the tip, dark green, with light gray-green horizontal stripes, and are named because the stripes are like tiger skin. It is more than 80 cm tall and 37 cm wide. It blooms in spring and summer, with spike-shaped inflorescences, 38 small flowers in a bunch, white or light green, and fragrant.

  Tiger tail orchid likes a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is 20-30 degrees. It is not cold-resistant and will stop growing when the temperature is below 13 degrees. The wintering temperature should not be lower than 8 degrees. When the temperature is too low, it often rots from the base, causing the death of the entire plant.

  Tiger tail orchid likes light, but should be protected from strong sunlight in summer. It is very shade-tolerant and can be displayed in the shade for a long time.

  Tiger tail orchid is a desert plant that can tolerate harsh environmental conditions.

  Reproduction is usually done by division. Division is usually done in spring and autumn in combination with removal from the pot. Remove the plant from the pot and use a sharp knife to separate the daughter plant from the mother plant. Try to avoid damaging the root system and let the separated daughter plant carry as many roots as possible. After the daughter plant is separated, it should be placed in a dark place indoors to prevent rain and control watering to avoid rotting of the cut. Normal maintenance can only be carried out after new leaves grow out.

  Cuttings can be used for mass propagation of Sansevieria. Cuttings are carried out between May and July. Select strong and full leaves and cut them into small sections of 5-7 cm. Whole leaves can also be used for cuttings. The cut leaves should be placed in a dry and cool place for several days. After the cuts are dried, they are inserted straight or obliquely into the medium. The insertion depth is 1/3 or 1/2 of the length of the cut section. Water thoroughly after insertion. When cutting, remember the upper and lower positions of the cuttings. If they are inserted upside down, they will not take root. Under the condition of 15-20 degrees, roots or rhizomes will grow from the base in about a month and gradually grow into new plants. When the seedlings grow 23 leaves, they can be potted and planted.

  Don't fill the water too full to soak the roots. Leave a small part of the roots exposed to the water surface to absorb oxygen. After the hydroponic roots grow, you can add a little nutrient solution. Change the water every three or four days in summer and six or seven days in winter to see how turbid the water is. Generally, woody flowers are more difficult to hydroponically grow, so you have to be patient.
 
 
  学名:Hydrangeamacrophylla

  Other names: hydrangea, fighting ball, shade hydrangea, grass hydrangea, hydrangea

  Family: Saxifragaceae Hydrangea

  Plant characteristics Hydrangea chinensis is native to the Yangtze River Basin and provinces to the south. The natural plant height is 1 to 2 meters, and the potted height is mostly controlled at 30 to 50 cm. The leaves are opposite, obovate or elliptical, with serrated edges. The corymbs are terminal, 20 cm in diameter, nearly spherical, with few and small sexual flowers and many and large asexual flowers. The flower color is changeable, initially white, gradually turning blue or pink. The natural flowering period is from May to July. It is a small deciduous shrub with emerald green leaves and bright flowers. It has a long viewing period and is deeply loved by people.

  Ecological habits Hydrangea likes warm and humid environment, and the suitable temperature for growth is 18℃ to 28℃, and not lower than 5℃ in winter. The light should be semi-shaded, too strong light will burn the leaves and curl the edges. It likes loose and fertile soil, and has a large demand for water, but avoids stagnant water. It has strong resistance to harmful gases such as sulfur dioxide.

  Common cultivars: Big hydrangea (V. hortensica): all flowers are sterile, sepals are ovate. Blue-edged hydrangea (V. coerulea Wilson): flowers are bisexual, dark blue, with blue or white flowers on the edges. Purple hydrangea (V. otaksa Bailey): flowers are sterile, inflorescence is large, up to 20 cm in diameter, leaves are thick, spherical inflorescence, blue or light red, mostly used in gardens. Silver hydrangea (V. maculata Wilson): divided into two types: fertile and sterile, leaves are narrow, white on the edges, used for ornamental leaves.

  Reproduction methods: Hydrangea can be propagated by division, layering, cuttings and other methods.

  Cuttings can be carried out in the greenhouse all year round. Generally, it is carried out in May and June, combined with early spring pruning and shaping after flowering. Select semi-lignified branches without diseases and insect pests, each section is 10 to 15 cm long, retain 2 to 3 nodes and 1 to 2 leaves on the top, and insert them in a seedbed with river sand or vermiculite as the substrate, and shade them appropriately. Keep the substrate moist and the air humidity above 80%. Rooting will begin in about 18 days. Gradually reduce the number of watering and increase the light, and transplant it in about 1 month.

  Cultivation and management: After the cuttings have taken root, they should be potted in time. Hydrangea likes loose, fertile and well-drained soil. Usually, leaf mold, garden soil and organic fertilizer are prepared in a ratio of 4:4:2. For large-scale production, grass carbon, perlite and organic fertilizer should be prepared in a ratio of 6:2:2. Thoroughly disinfect before use.

  Hydrangea likes fertilizer, generally apply organic fertilizer once every half a month. In the early growth period, nitrogen fertilizer should be more, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be more during the flower bud differentiation and bud formation period. You can also spray 0.1% to 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate on the leaves 2 to 3 times, and stop fertilizing after the flower buds are translucent.

  Watering: Hydrangea leaves have a large amount of transpiration, so it is necessary to water them in time. Even a short period of lack of water can cause the leaves to dry up and the flowers to die. Especially in summer, it is necessary to shade and cool down to reduce transpiration, and maintain air humidity above 60%. In addition, the color of hydrangeas is affected by the pH value of the soil. It usually appears blue in an acidic environment and red in an alkaline environment. Therefore, the pH value of the water should be determined according to the desired flower color.

  Temperature: Hydrangea cannot tolerate high temperatures and requires a temperature between 15℃ and 25℃. High temperatures will make the plants shorter and the flower color fade, reducing the quality. After the buds are colored, the temperature should be kept at 10℃ to 12℃ to improve the flower color and keep it fresh.

  Light Hydrangea is shade-tolerant, and direct sunlight will cause sunburn, so it needs to be shaded. Usually 60% of the light needs to be shaded during the growth period, and appropriate light should be shaded after the inflorescence is translucent to prevent the color from fading and losing its luster.

  Pruning Hydrangea has strong sprouting ability, and many nutrient branches will sprout at the base of the plant. In order to reduce nutrient loss, they should be removed in time. If old branches need to be replaced, strong nutrient branches can be selected as reserve branches. Prune in time after flowering, retaining 2 to 3 strong buds to promote new branches.

  To control the flowering period, you can select healthy plants of 3 to 5 years old. After 14 days of low temperature treatment at 2 to 4 degrees Celsius, move them into the greenhouse and keep them at 10 to 20 degrees Celsius. They will bloom in 50 to 60 days. Pay attention to frequent ventilation, good light conditions and high air humidity, and apply organic liquid fertilizer every half a month until they bloom.

  Pest and disease control Hydrangea has few pests, mostly aphids, spider mites, etc., which can be controlled by spraying systemic pesticides while ensuring good ventilation. Common diseases are mostly leaf diseases, such as white rot, gray mold, leaf spot, etc., so it is necessary to spray pesticides regularly for prevention. When the disease is found, the pesticides should be sprayed in time, and seriously diseased leaves can be removed and burned. //
 
 
  Yushu

  [Other name] Crassula, Crassula arborescens

  [Family] Crassulaceae, Crassulaceae genus.

  [Morphology] Evergreen succulent plant, plant height 45-75 cm, stem semi-woody. Single leaves opposite, thick and fleshy, broadly oval, entire, 3-5 cm long, 1-3 cm wide, dark green, shiny, leaf margins turn red after exposure to light, horticultural varieties include variegated and colorful leaves.

  [Habits] Native to South Africa. Likes warmth, drought tolerance, light, and partial shade, and grows best under bright scattered light conditions. Prefers fertile, loose, well-drained and breathable sandy loam.

  [Propagation] Cutting propagation. Both branch cuttings and leaf cuttings are easy to root, and water cuttings can also survive. The cutting time is between May and September. Take a 5-10 cm branch or a leaf and insert it in plain sandy soil. Pay attention to moisturizing. It will take root after a week.

  [Cultivation] Use 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of leaf mold, and add appropriate amount of river sand to make the potting soil. Water the seedlings after potting and place them in a shaded place. After they survive, place them in a bright place without direct sunlight. Keep the pots cool and ventilated in summer. In order to make the plants plump and compact, do not apply too much fertilizer and water, and the potting soil should be alternately dry and wet. Bring them indoors to keep warm in late autumn, and the room temperature should be above 7℃. Do not water too much in winter. Repot and change the soil once every spring.

  Although the jade tree is easy to grow, plant and manage, it is still common to see the jade trees on some residents' balconies "graceful and elegant" in spring, summer and autumn, but become wilted and pale in winter, or even become "bare-chested chickens". This is mainly because flower growers only see the easy cultivation side of the jade tree, and ignore its fragile side. After the severe cold, they still place it on the open balcony, allowing it to be attacked by the cold wind and frost, causing the jade tree to suffer frost damage. After being frozen, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the jade tree begin to show injuries as if they were scalded by boiling water, and then gradually become soft, shrunken, and finally fall off. In severe cases, only the bare main stem is left.

  Therefore, it is very important to do a good job of wintering the balcony potted jade tree, and the following aspects should be focused on:

  1. Move the pot indoors in time. When winter comes, move the jade plant to a room that can maintain a temperature of 7°C to 10°C. On warmer days, move the jade plant to the balcony at noon to let it bask in the sun, and move it indoors at night.

  2. Control the dryness and humidity of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should be slightly dry, and spray fine mist on the leaves to replenish water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.

  3. Move the pots into a greenhouse for insulation. If conditions permit, move the pots into a greenhouse. If conditions do not permit, cover them with plastic film, but pay attention to the humidity inside the cover. If you find that the humidity is too high, open the cover in time to ventilate to prevent leaf rot.

  4. If the jade tree has been damaged by frost due to mistakes in the early anti-freeze measures, do not discard the plant easily. Just remove the frozen leaves and twigs, keep the full main stem, and apply appropriate fertilizer in the next spring. New branches and leaves will still sprout from the main stem. Generally, after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can grow into a perfect jade tree.

  Jade tree hydroponics:

  You can choose to cut branches from the mother plant of Jade Tree in spring, summer and autumn for cuttings. Sterilize, disinfect and kill insects one week before cutting. Keep the substrate at a certain humidity after cutting branches. Water spray and shade are needed at the beginning. After the callus tissue grows below, spray less water or no water, otherwise it is easy to drop leaves and rot. After the roots grow to 23 cm, they can be placed on the hydroponic seedling bed for hydroponic root pulling.

  [Use] Indoor decoration, suitable for embellishing halls. Note: The same foliage plant Crassula portulacea, also known as Crassula portulacea, has obovate leaves and the cultivation method is the same as that of Jade Plant.

  You can also grow hydroponically without adding nutrient solution. For example, spider plants will grow well without nutrient solution. You can put two compound fertilizers in it, or soak the nutrient soil in water and take the clear part, which can also be used as nutrient solution. Nutrient solution can be bought in flower shops.

  Watermelon rinds must be hydroponically grown in spring and autumn. Watermelon rinds will definitely die in winter. Watermelon rind leaves are best planted in the soil. For hydroponics, choose those with roots. Change the water frequently at the beginning, and then add nutrient solution after the roots grow.

  My miniature coconut palm has grown well, thank you! I am a lazy person, there is another way to reduce the number of water changes, just add 3 drops of Amway's Lexin in the water, it works very well, but the amount of each bottle of water is different, you should start with a small amount and slowly explore.

  Hydroponic Polygonum multiflorum

  1. Not all flowers can be grown hydroponically

  2. It is not that the original soil-grown flowers are hydroponically grown by washing their roots and placing them in water.

  3. Fish and flower roots in water compete for oxygen, which is a lose-lose situation. The fish's excrement causes the water to deteriorate quickly, which can easily cause root rot and fish illness. It only has an advertising effect.

  4. Light passes through the glass bottle, triggering the production of algae, which competes for oxygen and covers the surface of the flower roots, suffocating the roots.

  5. The fibrous roots are crowded together in the water and are easily deprived of oxygen, turning black and dying.
 
 
  Hydroponic Peace Lily

  Let me also talk about the production process of hydroponic products at my base:

  Select mother plants - remove from pots and flush roots - cut roots or bases - disinfect and root treatment - plant in planting cups (ceramsite planting) - promote roots in root beds - induce mutation in hydroponic beds - harden seedlings for sale (management during this period is computer-assisted management)

  Real hydroponic flowers are not as simple as washing roots and soaking them in water. The cultivation process of hydroponic flowers is a very complicated process. It has to go through a series of processes such as root washing, root pruning, disinfection, planting, root promotion and root induction, and the time required ranges from one to twenty days to half a year.

Gardening Flower Gardening