Introduction to flower cultivation (selfstudy)
1. What are the benefits of growing flowers? Flowers, with their gorgeous style, decorate nature with extraordinary beauty and give people a beautiful enjoyment. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add fun, cultivate temperament, and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and improve cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the earth, protect and improve, purify the air, so that people can work and study in a beautiful environment and live a better life. Growing flowers is not only for viewing, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine. Honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, winter plum, hibiscus, azalea, rose, lotus, etc. are all commonly used Chinese herbal medicines. Fragrant flowers are widely used in food, light industry, etc. For example, osmanthus can be used as food spices and wine, jasmine, white orchid, daidai, pearl orchid, etc. can be smoked tea, and chrysanthemum can be used to make high-end food and dishes. White orchid, jasmine, rose, winter plum, daffodil, etc. can be used to extract essence. Growing flowers can also exchange foreign exchange and accumulate funds. For example, rose oil, a high-grade essence extracted from roses, is called "liquid gold" in the international market, and its value is more expensive than gold. 2. What are the categories of flowers? Known as the "mother of world gardens", China has rich flower resources and a wide variety of species. In order to facilitate cultivation, management and utilization, it is necessary to understand the classification of flowers. Due to different classification bases, the classification methods are also different. According to the morphological characteristics of flowers, flowers are usually divided into two categories: herbaceous flowers and woody flowers. Herbaceous flowers with soft stems and hard stems are called woody flowers. According to the growth habits and morphological characteristics of flowers, they can generally be divided into herbaceous flowers, woody flowers, succulent flowers and aquatic flowers. Herbaceous flowers can be divided into annual and biennial grass flowers, perennial flowers, bulbous flowers and lawn plants according to their growth and development cycles. Woody flowers can be divided into trees, shrubs and vines according to the height of their trunks and the size of their crowns. Succulent flowers have fleshy stems and leaves, and store abundant water in their bodies. Some of their leaves degenerate into thorns or feathers, with peculiar shapes, so they form their own category in horticultural cultivation. Aquatic flowers grow in water and swamps all year round. Most of them are perennial plants. According to the classification of ornamental parts, flowers can be divided into flower-viewing types (mainly for viewing flower color and flower shape, such as chrysanthemums and roses), leaf-viewing types (mainly for viewing leaf color and leaf shape, such as croton and variegated taro), fruit-viewing types (mainly for viewing fruit, such as kumquat), stem-viewing types (mainly for viewing branches and stems, such as the single tree and mountain shadow boxing, etc.) and bud-viewing types (mainly for viewing buds, such as silver willow). According to their uses, flowers can be divided into cut flowers (such as carnations, calla lilies, etc.), indoor flowers (such as Clivia, Monstera, etc.), garden flowers (such as roses, chrysanthemums, etc.), medicinal flowers (such as peonies, honeysuckle, etc.), spice flowers (such as white orchids, jasmine, roses, etc.) and edible flowers (lilies, daylilies, pomegranates). In addition, based on the climatic conditions of the flowers' origins and their natural distribution, flowers can be divided into tropical flowers, subtropical flowers, warm temperate flowers, temperate flowers, subarctic flowers, alpine flowers, etc. This classification method can reflect the habits of various flowers and the conditions that need to be met for their growth and development during cultivation. 3. What are bulbous flowers? Bulbous flowers refer to perennial herbaceous flowers whose underground stems or roots have undergone metamorphosis and are spherical or spherical. According to the morphological structure of their underground stems or roots, they can be roughly divided into five categories: (1) Bulbous flowers. The underground stems are scaly. Those with papery outer skin are called scaled bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, amaryllis, etc.; those without outer skin outside the scales are called unskinned bulbs, such as lilies, etc. (2) Bulbs. The underground stems are spherical or oblate, with leathery outer skin, such as gladiolus, freesia, etc. (3) Rhizomes. The underground stems are enlarged and root-like, with obvious nodes on them, and new buds grow at the top of the branches, such as canna, ginger flower, lotus, water lily, hosta, etc. (4) Tubers. The underground stems are irregular blocks or strips, such as calla lily, cyclamen, gloxinia, tuberose, etc. (5) Tubers. The underground taproot is enlarged and block-shaped, and the root system grows from the end of the tuber, such as dahlia, etc. 4. What is the relationship between temperature and flower cultivation? Temperature is an important condition for the survival of various flowers. No matter how suitable other environmental conditions are, if there is no suitable temperature condition, flowers will find it difficult to survive. Each type of flower has its optimum temperature, maximum temperature and minimum temperature for growth and development. According to the temperature of the flower's origin, flowers can be roughly divided into high temperature, medium temperature and low temperature categories. (1) High temperature category. Such as Milan, poinsettia, cineraria, gloxinia, fuchsia, etc. When cultivated in North China, the minimum room temperature in winter should be kept above 12℃. (2) Medium temperature category. Such as white orchid, jasmine, hibiscus, geranium, etc., the room temperature in winter should not be lower than 5℃ (3) Low temperature category. Such as oleander, osmanthus, kumquat, daidai, cycad, etc., the room temperature in winter should not be lower than 0℃. If the temperature is too high or too low, the normal physiological activities of flowers will be destroyed, growth will stop, and in severe cases, the whole plant will die. 5. What effect does light have on the growth and development of flowers? Light is the energy source for flowers and plants to produce nutrients. Without light, photosynthesis cannot be carried out, and the growth and development of flowers will be seriously affected. Most plants can only bloom and flourish under sufficient light conditions. Different types of flowers have different requirements for light. A flower proverb says: "Camellia in the shade, peony in the sun, four-season orchid in half shade and half sun". According to the different requirements of flowers for light intensity, flowers can be roughly divided into positive flowers, neutral flowers and negative flowers. (1) Positive flowers. Most flowers for viewing flowers and fruits are positive flowers, such as magnolia, rose, pomegranate, plum blossom, crape myrtle, citrus, etc. There are also a few positive flowers among foliage flowers, such as cycads, palms, croton, etc. Most aquatic flowers, cacti and succulents are also positive flowers. All positive flowers like strong light and cannot tolerate shade. If there is not enough sunlight, it is easy to cause the branches and leaves to grow too long, the tissues to become soft and weak, the leaves to become pale and yellow, it is difficult to bloom or the flowering is poor, and they are susceptible to diseases and insect pests. (2) Negative flowers. Some flowers grow well in shaded environments, such as asparagus fern, camellia, azalea, hosta, green radish, evergreen, ivy, gloxinia, monstera, begonia, etc. If they are exposed to strong light for a long time, their branches and leaves will turn yellow, their growth will stagnate, and in severe cases, they will even die. (3) Neutral flowers. Flowers grow well in sunny conditions, but they can be shaded in principle when the light intensity is high in summer, such as osmanthus, jasmine, white orchid, hydrangea, etc. In summary, various flowers have different requirements for light, and even the same flower has different requirements for light at different stages of growth and development. The amount of light required by seedlings can be gradually increased, while the positive chrysanthemum requires short-day conditions to form flower buds. 6. What is the effect of light on flower bud differentiation? The purpose of cultivating flowers is to make them bloom more flowers, and light is the most effective external factor to promote the formation of flower buds. On the same flower, branches that receive sufficient light will have more flower buds, while branches that receive insufficient light will have fewer flower buds. When there are many sunny days in summer, flowers receive sufficient sunlight, and there will be more flowers in the next year. Generally speaking, flowers can photosynthesize under the temperature of 10-35℃, and the most suitable temperature is 20-28℃. According to the flower's requirements for the length of light, flowers can be divided into three categories: (1) Long-day flowers. Generally, the daily sunshine time needs to be more than 12 hours to form flower buds, which are called long-day flowers. Many flowers that bloom in spring and summer are long-day flowers, such as irises, asters, and impatiens. (2) Short-day flowers. Flowers that can only form flower buds under the condition of less than 12 hours of sunshine per day are called short-day flowers. Poinsettia and chrysanthemum are typical short-day flowers. They can only grow under the long sunshine in summer, but cannot differentiate flower buds. After autumn, they will start to differentiate flower buds when the light is reduced to 10-11 hours. (3) Medium-day flowers. Flowers whose flower bud formation is not strictly required by the length of daylight during the day are called medium-day flowers. For example, calla lily, carnation, zinnia, rose, hibiscus, etc., they have no obvious response to the length of light exposure, and can bloom all year round as long as the temperature is suitable. 7. What effect does water have on the growth and development of flowers? Water is a necessary condition for the growth and reproduction of flowers. It has a great impact on the growth and development of flowers. Because water absorption exceeds consumption, the flowers have too much water in their bodies, which makes the plants particularly tall and thin, and their resistance to cold and stress is weakened. If there is too much water for a long time, it will cause root rot, leaf fall, and even death. Water absorption is less than consumption, and the flowers will wilt due to lack of water. Severe water shortage will cause the flowers to wither and die. There are many varieties of flowers, and their water requirements are also different. Even the same flower has different water requirements at different stages of its growth. According to the different water requirements of flowers, flowers can be roughly divided into three categories: xerophytes, aquatic plants, and mesophytes: (1) Xerophytes. Such as plum blossoms, crape myrtles, crabapples, hollyhocks, nandina domestica, and succulent flowers are relatively drought-resistant. (2) Aquatic flowers. Such as lotus, water lilies, calamus, water bamboo, etc. (3) Mesophytes. Flowers that can grow well in moist soil. Most flowers belong to this type, such as magnolia, white orchid, winter plum, peach blossom, camellia, bauhinia, etc. 8. What effect does air humidity have on flowers? Most of the water needed by flowers comes from the soil, but air humidity also has a great impact on the growth and development of flowers. For example, if the air temperature is too high, it is easy to cause the branches and leaves to grow too long, the petals to rot and fall, and it is easy to cause the spread of pests and diseases. If the humidity is too high during the flowering period, it will hinder flowering and affect fruiting. If the air humidity is too low, the flowering period will be shortened and the color of the flowers will fade. If the air is dry for a long time, the southern flowers will grow poorly when raised in the north, affecting flowering and fruiting. The climate in the north is dry in winter. If the humidity is not maintained at a certain level indoors, some flowers that like moisture will often have pale yellow leaves and dry leaves. According to the different requirements of different flowers for air temperature, you can use methods such as spraying branches and leaves or covering them with plastic film to increase air humidity and create humidity conditions suitable for their growth. Orchids, begonias, monstera and other moisture-loving flowers require air relative humidity of not less than 80%; jasmine, white orchid, hibiscus and other medium-humidity flowers require air humidity of not less than 60%. 9. Why do flowers die from excessive watering? When potted flowers are watered too much, the water fills the soil gaps, and the air in the soil is replaced by water. At this time, the outside air cannot enter, resulting in soil hypoxia, root respiration is hindered, physiological functions are reduced, and the root system's ability to absorb water and fertilizer is hindered. At the same time, due to the lack of oxygen in the soil, aerobic bacteria with the function of decomposing organic matter in the soil multiply and become active, increasing the acidity of the soil. Due to the rampant activity of butyric acid bacteria, a series of toxic substances such as hydrogen sulfide and ammonia are produced, which directly poison the root system. At the same time, due to the lack of oxygen, the plants consume a large amount of soluble sugar in the body and accumulate too much alcohol and other substances, which greatly reduces photosynthesis, and finally causes the flowers to die of hunger. In the practice of flower cultivation, we often see cases where the roots of flowers turn black and rot due to excessive watering, "drowning" the flowers. Therefore, when cultivating flowers, pay attention to the right amount of watering. 10. What are the harms of insufficient watering of potted flowers? Because potted flowers have little soil and can store little water, they need to be frequently watered during the growing season to ensure the normal growth of flowers. If the water supply is insufficient, the leaves and petioles will shrink and droop, and the flowers will wilt. If the flowers are not watered for a long time, the older leaves and the leaves at the bottom of the plant will gradually turn yellow and dry up. If most grass flowers are in a state of drought for a long time, the plants will be short, the leaves will lose their bright green luster, and even the whole plant will die. Some flower growers are afraid of overwatering, so they water "half waist water" every time, that is, the amount of water poured can only moisten the topsoil, while the lower soil is dry. This watering method will also affect the development of the root system of flowers and cause the above-mentioned undesirable phenomena. Therefore, watering should be done when the soil is dry and wet, and water thoroughly when watering. 11. How to judge whether potted flowers are lacking water? Watering is a regular management work for flower cultivation. Whether the pot soil is lacking water is a difficult thing to grasp, so many flower lovers often feel distressed about this. The following is a brief introduction to the experience of flower growers in judging whether there is a lack of water. (1) Knocking method. Use the joints of your fingers to gently knock on the upper middle wall of the flower pot. If a relatively crisp sound is heard, it means that the soil in the pot is dry and needs to be watered immediately; if a dull sound is heard, it means that the soil in the pot is moist and you can temporarily stop watering. (2) Visual inspection method. Use your eyes to observe whether the color of the surface of the pot soil changes. If the color becomes lighter or grayish white, it means that the soil in the pot is dry and needs to be watered; if the color becomes darker or brown, it means that the soil in the pot is moist and you can temporarily stop watering. (3) Finger measurement method. Gently insert your finger into the soil in the pot about 2 cm deep and touch the soil. If it feels dry or rough and hard, it means that the soil in the pot is dry and needs to be watered immediately; if it feels slightly moist, delicate and soft, it means that the soil in the pot is moist and you can temporarily stop watering. (4) Pinching and twisting method. Use your fingers to twist the soil in the pot. If the soil is powdery, it means that the soil is dry and you should water it immediately. If it is flaky or granular, it means that the soil is moist and you don't need to water it for the time being. The above test methods are all based on experience. They can only tell people the general situation of the dryness and wetness of the potting soil. If you need to know the exact degree of dryness and wetness of the potting soil, you can buy a soil thermometer, insert the thermometer into the seal, and you can see the words "dry" or "moist" on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water. 12. Why is it not appropriate to water flowers with cold water at noon in midsummer? At noon in midsummer, the temperature is very high, and the temperature of the leaves of flowers can often reach about 40℃. The transpiration is strong, and the water evaporates quickly. The root system needs to constantly absorb water to replenish the loss of transpiration from the leaves. If you water with cold water at this time, although water is added to the pot soil, the root hairs will be stimulated by the low temperature due to the sudden drop in soil temperature, which will immediately hinder the normal absorption of water. At this time, since the flowers have no preparations in their bodies, the stomata on the leaves are not closed, and the water supply and demand balance is lost, causing the leaves to wilt from a tense state, causing the plants to produce "physiological drought", the leaves to scorch, and in severe cases, the whole plant will die. This phenomenon is particularly obvious in herbaceous flowers, such as geraniums, morning glory, and aster, which are most afraid of watering with cold water at noon in hot weather. For this reason, it is best to water flowers in the morning and evening in summer. 13. What kind of water is good for watering flowers? Water can be divided into hard water and soft water according to the salt content. Hard water contains more salts. Using it to water flowers often causes brown spots on the leaves of flowers, affecting the ornamental effect. Therefore, soft water is more suitable for watering flowers. Among soft waters, rainwater (or snow water) is the most ideal, because rainwater is a kind of water that is close to neutral, does not contain minerals, and has more air, which is very suitable for watering flowers. If rainwater can be collected and stored on rainy days for watering flowers, it will help promote the assimilation of flowers, extend the cultivation period, and improve the ornamental value. Flowers that prefer acidic soil prefer rainwater. Therefore, more rainwater should be stored during the rainy season. In various parts of Northeast China, snow water can be used to water flowers, and the effect is also very good, but you must pay attention to It is important to remember that the ice and snow must be melted and left until the water temperature is close to room temperature before use. If there is no rain or snow water, river water or pond water can be used. If tap water is used, it must be stored in a bucket (tank) for 1-2 days to allow the chlorine in the water to evaporate before use, which is safer. Do not use laundry water containing soap or washing powder for watering flowers, nor dishwashing water containing oil. For cactus flowers that like slightly alkaline, it is not appropriate to use slightly acidic leftover tea water. In addition, the temperature of the water should also be paid attention to when watering flowers. Whether it is summer or winter, the water temperature is too different from the air temperature (more than 5 degrees) and it is easy to damage the roots of the flowers. Therefore, it is best to put the water for watering flowers in a bucket (tank) and dry it for a day, and then use it when the water temperature is close to the air temperature. 14. How should the amount of water for potted flowers be controlled? Whether the amount of watering for potted flowers can be timely and appropriate is the key to the success of flower cultivation. Based on the experience of various places, the amount of watering for potted flowers is determined by comprehensive judgment based on various aspects such as flower variety, plant size, growth and development period, climate, soil conditions, flower pot size, and placement location, to determine the time, frequency and amount of watering. Under normal circumstances, flowers that like moisture should be watered more, and flowers that like drought should be watered less; bulbous flowers should not be watered too much; herbaceous flowers have a large water content and a large transpiration rate, so they need more water than woody flowers; flowers with large and soft leaves, smooth and hairless should be watered more, and flowers with small leaves with waxy layers, hairs, and leather should be watered less; water more during the vigorous growth period and less during the dormant period; water more for large seedlings and small pots, and less for small seedlings and large pots; water more on hot days and less on cold days; water more on dry days and less on cloudy days, etc. For general flowers, the water supply in the four seasons is: the temperature gradually rises after the beginning of spring every year, and the flowers enter the vigorous growth period, and the amount of watering is gradually increased. Watering in early spring should be done before noon. In summer, the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously, and the transpiration is strong, so the amount of watering should be sufficient. In summer, watering should be done in the morning and evening. After the beginning of autumn, the temperature gradually drops, and the flowers grow slowly, so watering should be reduced appropriately. In winter, the temperature is low, and many flowers enter a dormant or semi-dormant period. Watering should be controlled. Do not water if the pot soil is not too dry, so as to avoid root rot and leaf fall due to excessive watering. In winter, watering should be done between 1 and 2 pm. 15. What is the role of spraying water? Spraying water can increase air humidity, lower the temperature, wash away dust on the plants and flush away pests, etc., avoid scorching of tender leaves and early withering of flowers, and keep plants fresh; especially for some flowers that like shade and humidity, such as camellia, azalea, orchid, monstera, etc., spraying water on the leaves frequently is very beneficial to their growth and development. In summer, when it suddenly clears up after rain or it is hot at night, you should pay attention to spraying water to cool down and prevent diseases. The amount of water sprayed should be determined according to the needs of the flowers. Generally, the water can evaporate soon after spraying water, and this amount of water spray is most suitable. Seedlings and delicate flowers need to be sprayed with water more often. Newly potted and unrooted cuttings also need to be sprayed with water more often. Tropical orchids, Araceae and Bromeliaceae flowers need to be sprayed with water more often. However, some flowers are very sensitive to water and humidity, such as Gloxinia, Calceolaria, Begonia, etc., whose leaves have thick hairs. After water falls on them, it is not easy to evaporate and cause the leaves to rot. Therefore, it is not advisable to spray water on the leaves. For blooming flowers, it is also not advisable to spray water too much, otherwise it is easy to cause the petals to rot or affect fertilization, and reduce the fruiting rate. In addition, the leaf buds at the top of the cyclamen tuber, the flower buds in the gerbera leaf cluster, and the pseudobulb in the center of the Clivia leaf cluster are all afraid of water and humidity. These parts are easily damaged after spraying water. 16. How to save flowers after they wilt? For potted flowers, because there is less water in the pot, forgetting to water them, especially missing water in the hot summer, often causes the leaves to wilt. If they are not saved in time, they will often cause the plants to wither. If the rescue is not done properly, it may sometimes cause the death of the plant. The correct approach is: when the leaves wilt, immediately move the flower pot to a cool place, spray some water on the leaves, and water a small amount. Later, as the stems and leaves gradually recover, gradually increase the amount of watering. If you water too much water at this time, it may cause the death of the plant. This is because a large number of root hairs are damaged after the flowers wilt, so the water absorption capacity is greatly reduced. Only after the growth of new root hairs can the original water absorption capacity be restored. At the same time, wilting causes cells to lose water. After encountering water, the cell wall absorbs water first and expands rapidly, and the protoplasm absorbs water later and expands slowly. If a large amount of water is suddenly poured at this time, it will cause plasmolysis and damage the protoplasm, thus causing the death of the flowers. 17. What role does soil play in the growth and development of flowers? Soil is an important matrix for cultivating flowers, the material basis for the survival of flowers, and the main source of water, fertilizer, air, and heat required for the growth and development of flowers. This is because soil is composed of minerals, organic matter, soil moisture, and soil air. Minerals are the most basic substances that make up the soil, and they can provide a variety of nutrients required by flowers. Organic matter not only supplies nutrients for the growth of flowers, but also plays an important role in improving the physical and chemical properties of the soil and the structure of soil aggregates, as well as water retention, water supply, ventilation, and temperature stability. Soil moisture is an indispensable material condition for the growth of flowers. Soil air is the source of oxygen required for the absorption of flower roots and the life activities of microorganisms, and is also an important condition for the further weathering of soil minerals and the conversion of organic matter to release nutrients. Scientific experiments have shown that the soil suitable for plant growth, by volume, contains about 38% minerals, about 12% organic matter, and about 15%-35% soil air and soil moisture. According to some information, the most suitable water content for the growth of general flower plants is 25% of the soil volume, and air also accounts for 25%. Some people do not understand the above principles and do not change the pots and soil for a long time when cultivating potted flowers, which leads to the deterioration of the physical and chemical properties of the soil, poor ventilation and water permeability, and lack of nutrients, which leads to poor growth of flowers, yellow leaves, few flowers, or even no flowers. Therefore, to grow potted flowers well, you must pay attention to changing pots and soil in time. 18. What kind of soil is good for potted flowers? Potted flowers, because their roots can only move in a very small range of soil, have stricter requirements on soil than open-field flowers. On the one hand, it requires nutrients to be as comprehensive as possible, and the limited pot soil contains the nutrients needed for the growth of flowers; on the other hand, it requires good physical and chemical properties, that is, the structure should be loose, the water holding capacity should be strong, the pH should be appropriate, and the fertilizer retention should be good. It is for this reason that when growing flowers, you should try to choose a neutral or slightly acidic soil with a good aggregate structure, loose and fertile, good water retention and drainage performance, and rich in humus. This kind of soil is light in weight, large in pores, airy, and rich in nutrients, which is conducive to the development of the root system of flowers and the healthy growth of plants. If flowers are planted in heavy clay soil with poor ventilation and water permeability, or in pure sandy soil that lacks nutrients and has poor water and fertilizer retention, or in alkaline soil, most flowers will easily grow weak or even die. However, the soil conditions mentioned above are not available in any natural soil. Therefore, artificial culture soil should be used for potted flowers. This culture soil is made by mixing two or more soils or other matrix materials in a certain proportion according to the different growth habits of flowers and plants to meet the growth needs of different flowers. 19. How to prepare culture soil? There are many materials suitable for preparing culture soil. The following are commonly used. (1) Plain sandy soil. Mostly taken from river beaches. It has good drainage performance but no fertility. It is often mixed with other culture materials to facilitate drainage. (2) Garden soil. Soil taken from the surface layer of vegetable gardens, orchards, etc. It contains a certain amount of humus and has good physical properties. It is often used as the basic material for most culture soils. (3) Leaf mold. Made from fallen leaves, dead grass, etc. It has a high humus content, strong water retention, and good permeability. It is one of the main materials for preparing culture soil. (4) Mountain mud. It is divided into black mountain mud and yellow mountain mud. It is formed by the long-term accumulation of fallen leaves from trees in the mountains. Black mountain mud is acidic and contains more humus; Huangshan mud is also acidic and contains less humus. (5) Peat soil. It is formed by the carbonization of peat moss. Due to the different stages of formation, it is divided into brown peat and black peat. Brown peat contains rich organic matter and has an acidic reaction; black peat contains more minerals and less organic matter, and has a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. (6) Rice husk ash. It is the ash formed by burning rice husks. It is slightly alkaline, contains potassium, and has good drainage and air permeability. (7) Manure soil. It is made by mixing animal feces, fallen leaves, etc. with garden soil, sewage, etc. and piling them up and fermenting. It has rich fertility. In addition, pond mud, river mud, coniferous soil, turf soil, rotten wood chips, vermiculite, perlite, etc. are all good materials for preparing culture soil. The preparation of culture soil should be flexibly mastered according to the growth habits of flowers, the properties of the culture soil materials and local conditions. For general potted flowers, the commonly used culture soil configuration ratio is leaf humus (or peat soil): garden soil: river sand: bone meal = 35:30:30:5, or leaf humus (or peat soil), plain sandy soil, decomposed organic fertilizer, superphosphate, etc. are mixed and sieved at 5:3.5:1:0.5 before use. The above culture soils are mostly neutral or slightly acidic, suitable for most flowers. For cultivating acid-loving flowers and trees such as camellia and azalea, about 0.2% sulfur powder can be added; for cultivating flowers such as cacti, about 10% of the wall soil peeled off from the lime wall can be added. 20. How to make leaf humus by yourself? Leaf humus is a commonly used material for cultivating potted flowers. Where conditions permit. You can directly dig up leaf humus that has been weathered for many years under the forest in the mountains. You can also make your own leaf humus by collecting fallen leaves, weeds, etc. from broad-leaved or coniferous trees in autumn and piling them into a rectangular pit. When piling, put a layer of leaves first, then a layer of garden soil, and pile them up repeatedly for several layers, then irrigate with a small amount of sewage, and finally cover the top with a layer of garden soil and other materials about 10 cm thick. Open it once in late spring and midsummer of the following year, turn over and crush the pile, and then pile it up as it was. In warm climate areas, most of these piles can be decomposed by late autumn. At this time, they can be dug out, further crushed and sieved for use. Two points should be noted when piling: First, do not press too tightly to facilitate air penetration, create conditions for the activity of aerobic bacteria, and thus accelerate the decomposition of the pile. Second, do not make the pile too wet. If it is too wet, the ventilation will be poor. Under anaerobic conditions, anaerobic bacteria will multiply and move in large numbers, causing serious nutrient loss and affecting the quality of the leaf humus. 21. How to determine and change the pH value of the culture soil? The pH value of the culture soil directly affects the physical and chemical properties of the culture soil and the growth of flowers. Most flowers grow well in a culture soil that is neutral to slightly acidic (pH value 5.5-7.0). Because within this range, the nutrients that flowers absorb from the soil are in a soluble state. Above or below this limit, some nutrients become inabsorbable, which can easily cause nutritional deficiencies in some flowers. That is why it is necessary to determine the pH value of the culture soil before planting flowers. The pH value of the soil is usually expressed in pH. A pH value of 7 is neutral, less than 7 is acidic, and greater than 7 is alkaline. If the soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it needs to be improved in order to grow flowers well. The easiest way to determine the pH value of the culture soil is to go to a chemical reagent store and buy a box of litmus paper, which contains a pair of standard color plates. Determination: Take a small amount of culture soil and put it in a clean glass cup. Add cold boiled water in a ratio of 1:2. After sufficient stirring and settling, put litmus paper into the solution. Take out the test paper and compare it with the standard color plate after about 1 or 2 seconds. Find the color plate number with a color similar to the standard color plate number, which is the pH value of this culture soil. According to the test results, the following measures can be taken to adjust the culture soil with inappropriate pH. If the acidity is too high, add a small amount of lime powder to the potting soil; if the alkalinity is too high, add a small amount of sulfur powder to the potting soil. 22. What are the advantages of soilless cultivation? As the name suggests, soilless cultivation is to cultivate flowers without soil, but with various culture substrates and nutrient solutions. Since soilless cultivation uses nutrient solution to directly provide flowers with the necessary nutrients for growth and development, it is also called nutrient solution cultivation. It is a new technology for flower cultivation in recent years and has many advantages: (1) Fast growth and good quality. Since the nutrient solution used in soilless cultivation is carefully formulated according to the growth and development needs of flowers, it is conducive to the rapid growth of flowers. Therefore, the flowers are numerous, large, colorful, long-lasting, fragrant, and the green leaves do not fall off for a long time. It not only improves the ornamental value, but also shortens the flowering cycle and produces a high amount of flowers per unit area. (2) Clean and hygienic, with few pests and diseases. The purpose of growing flowers is to beautify the indoor and outdoor environment and give people spiritual enjoyment. The fertilizer used in soilless cultivation is a nutrient solution prepared with inorganic elements, and the substrate is sterilized. It is clean and hygienic, and can greatly reduce pests and diseases. Therefore, many countries have enacted relevant laws to restrict the import of flowers with soil. If you want to export flowers in large quantities, you must also adopt new soilless cultivation technologies. (3) Save fertilizer and water. Because soilless cultivation has a fixed container, there is little loss of fertilizer and water. In soil cultivation, about half of the nutrients and most of the water are lost. (4) The labor intensity is low, saving labor and time. Soilless cultivated flowers do not need to carry heavy pots. The containers used are mainly plastic, and the substrates used, such as vermiculite and perlite, are very light, weighing only a dozen times less than soil. In terms of management, it is only necessary to regularly replenish the nutrient solution prepared in advance and constantly replenish water. It is easy to operate and has a good effect. (5) It is not subject to many restrictions and is suitable for indoor use. Soilless cultivation is more flexible. Generally, as long as there is air and water, light, temperature and other conditions, this method can be used to cultivate flowers. 23. What substrate is suitable for soilless cultivation? The function of the soilless cultivation substrate is to replace the soil to fix the flower plants in the container, and to keep the nutrient solution and water for the growth and development of the flowers. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a material with good water retention performance, good drainage performance, and no harmful substances, clean and hygienic, and with a certain strength. At present, the soilless cultivation substrates commonly used for home flower cultivation at home and abroad are mainly sand, gravel, vermiculite, perlite, fiberglass, foam plastic, rock wool, etc. (1) Vermiculite. It is a mica mineral with a light and porous texture. It has good air permeability, water absorption and a certain water holding capacity. It also contains magnesium, potassium and other elements that can be absorbed and utilized by flowers. (2) Perlite. It is a siliceous mineral with stable, strong, light texture, clean and sterile. It has good drainage and air permeability, but its water and fertilizer retention are slightly poor. It is advisable to mix it with vermiculite in a 1:1 ratio. (3) Foam plastic. It is very light and can hold a large amount of water per unit volume. It cannot be used alone and is often mixed with sand. (4) Fiberglass. It is clean and hygienic, has strong water absorption, can store a large amount of air, will not rot after long-term use, and can support the roots of plants so that they do not fall over. The long-term use of the substrate for soilless cultivation, especially continuous cropping, is often prone to the growth of pathogens and harm to flower seedlings. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to disinfection after each cultivation. You can pour 1% bleach solution on the substrate and soak it for about 30 minutes, then rinse it with clean water to eliminate chlorine. The sterilization effect is good. The substrate can be reused after disinfection. 24. How to prepare nutrient solution? The various elements and dosages used in preparing nutrient solution need to be determined according to the variety of flowers to be cultivated, their different growth periods, different regions, etc. There are many formulas of nutrient solution used at home and abroad. Now only the formula of Hamp nutrient solution suitable for general potted flowers is introduced as follows: add a large number of elements per liter of water: 0.7 grams of potassium nitrate, 0.7 grams of calcium nitrate, 0.8 grams of superphosphate, 0.28 grams of magnesium sulfate, 0.12 grams of iron sulfate, 0.6 milligrams of trace elements boric acid, 0.6 milligrams of manganese sulfate, 0.6 milligrams of zinc sulfate, 0.6 milligrams of copper sulfate, and 0.6 milligrams of ammonium molybdate. The pH value of this formula is 5.5-6.5. When preparing the solution, it is best to first use a small amount of warm water at about 50°C to dissolve the inorganic salts listed in the above formula separately, and then pour them one by one into water equivalent to 75% of the specified capacity in the order listed in the formula, stirring while pouring, and finally add the water to the full amount (1 liter), which is the prepared nutrient solution. When preparing the above solution, the types and amounts of elements can also be appropriately increased or decreased according to the different requirements of different flowers. When preparing or storing nutrient solution, do not use metal containers, but use ceramic, enamel, plastic or glass containers to avoid chemical reactions. When the amount of nutrient solution used for home flower cultivation is not large, in order to reduce the trouble of preparing nutrient solution, you can go to the flower and tree store to buy long-lasting flower fertilizers, such as plastic composite series flower fertilizers, vermiculite composite flower fertilizers, granular composite flower fertilizers, etc. In the northern region, you can also use a simple formula of adding 0.22 grams of ammonium phosphate, 1.05 grams of potassium nitrate, 0.16 grams of ammonium sulfate, 0.16 grams of ammonium nitrate, and 0.01 grams of ferrous sulfate to 1 liter of water to prepare the nutrient solution. 25. How to do soilless cultivation at home? For soilless cultivation at home, ordinary pots such as plastic pots and unglazed pots can be used for cultivation. When planting, first mix various substrates in a certain proportion or put them separately into the plastic pot, and then plant the seedlings with 3 to 5 leaves in the center of the pot. Before planting, put the roots with soil in clean water, gently wash the root mud, and then soak the roots in a solution that is 5 to 10 times dilute than the normal concentration of nutrient solution for about 10 minutes to allow them to fully absorb nutrients. After planting, cover it with a layer of quartz sand or pebbles to fix the plant, and immediately pour 0.5 times the nutrient solution from all sides of the container until the nutrient solution flows out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. After that, water it once every 1 to 3 days, and pour dilute nutrient solution once every 7 to 10 days. After the plant resumes normal growth, pour the nutrient solution of normal concentration. The number and amount of nutrient solution pouring depends on the type of flowers, plant size, different growth stages, seasons, and placement location. Generally, during the growth period of indoor potted flowers, large seedlings are watered with nutrient solution about every 7 to 15 days, and small seedlings are watered about every 15 to 20 days; during the dormant period of flowers, water them about once a month. The amount of nutrient solution poured each time is generally about 100 ml for positive flowers with an inner diameter of about 20 cm in the flower pot, and the amount of negative flowers should be reduced as appropriate. If long-lasting flower fertilizer is used, the amount should refer to the regulations in the product manual. For beginners, pay attention to the appropriate amount of nutrient solution when pouring, it is better to use less than too much. If too much is used, it is easy to cause harm such as scorched leaves. In soilless flower cultivation, in addition to paying attention to the time and amount of nutrient solution, it is also necessary to water in time according to the water requirements of different types of flowers to keep the substrate moist frequently, so that the flowers can grow healthily. In order to avoid the loss of nutrient solution, it is best to use a watertight container. The container that is more suitable for home use consists of two parts, a flower pot with substrate (porous bottom) on the top, into which the seedlings are loaded, and a watertight container for nutrient solution on the top. When using this type of container for planting, water the plants appropriately before their roots extend into the nutrient solution. Water a small amount of dilute nutrient solution every 5 to 7 days. After the roots extend into the nutrient solution, normal management can be resumed. Add nutrient solution and water regularly according to the growth habits of the flowers. Generally, completely replace the nutrient solution once a month and clean the container containing the nutrient solution. The amount of nutrient solution in the container should be about 2/3 of the container depth. If the container is filled with too much nutrient solution without leaving any space, the roots will be completely soaked in the nutrient solution, and there will be insufficient air, which will easily cause root rot due to lack of oxygen. The usual maintenance and management of flowers grown in soilless culture is basically the same as that of soil culture. It is also necessary to provide environmental conditions such as light, temperature, and humidity suitable for their growth and development according to the habits of the flowers. 26. What are the commonly used fertilizers? Commonly used fertilizers are of the following two categories: (1) Organic fertilizers. They are usually divided into animal organic fertilizers and plant organic fertilizers. Animal organic fertilizers include human feces and urine, feathers, hooves, horns and bone meal of livestock and poultry, and waste products of fish, meat and eggs. Plant organic fertilizers include bean cake and other cake fertilizers, sesame paste residue, weeds, leaves, green manure, Chinese herbal medicine residue, distiller's grains, etc. Both types of fertilizers are slow-acting fertilizers with relatively complete nutrients and long fertilizer effects. They must be fermented and decomposed before use. (2) Inorganic fertilizers. They are fertilizers rich in mineral nutrients made by chemical synthesis or processed from natural ores. For example, nitrogen fertilizers include urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate, etc. Phosphorus fertilizers include superphosphate, phosphate rock powder, etc. Potassium fertilizers include potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, etc. Chemical fertilizers have a fast effect, but the fertilizer content is simple; the fertilizer effect is violent, but not long-lasting. Except for phosphorus fertilizers, general chemical fertilizers are used as topdressing. 27. How to make your own fertilizer? In daily life, there are many wastes that can be used to make your own fertilizers. (1) Soaking liquid fertilizers. Use a small jar (or pot) to put waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells and moldy food (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder*) into it, add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, cover tightly, and use it after high-temperature fermentation. When using, take the supernatant and dilute it with water before applying. Alternatively, you can mix the above waste with some old culture soil, add some water, put it in a large plastic bag, tie it tightly and leave it for a while, and use it after fermentation. (2) Waste composting. Choose an appropriate location to dig a pit with a depth of 60 cm to 80 cm, and pad it with 10 cm of furnace ash. Put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck feces, eggshells, meat waste and broken bones into the pit, sprinkle some pesticides, and cover it with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick. Keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost it in autumn or winter. When it is heated up in spring and has decomposed and has no foul odor, it can be mixed into the culture soil as base fertilizer. It can also be sieved through a 4 mm sieve while it is still wet and rubbed into pellets. The fine ones can be used as topdressing fertilizer, and the coarse ones can be used as base fertilizer. 28. How to avoid and reduce the odor when composting and fertilizing? When composting and accumulating fertilizer, it often emits an unpleasant odor, polluting the environment, being very unhygienic and unpleasant. Here are some tips on avoiding or reducing the odor when composting. (1) Put a few pieces of orange peel (either dry or fresh) in the compost container to reduce the odor. Because orange peel contains a large amount of essential oil, as the fertilizer ferments, it will continue to volatilize and emit fragrance, which can reduce the odor. When the effect of orange peel decreases, you can continue to add a few new pieces of orange peel. Orange peel is also a good fertilizer after fermentation, which can increase the fertilizer efficiency. (2) Use kimchi jars to compost. Put household food waste, such as rotten eggs, animal offal, bad milk, soy milk, etc., into the kimchi jar, add appropriate amount of clean water, pay attention to fill the water tank at the mouth of the jar with water, then put in some insecticides, and cover it to prevent the smell from spreading. It will be decomposed in about 2 to 3 months in summer. When using it, take the supernatant and add 10 to 20 times of water, and add a little pesticide such as trichlorfon to the fertilizer water to prevent maggots. It is introduced that adding an appropriate amount of 500 to 600 times rice vinegar dilution before applying the fertilizer water can alleviate the odor of liquid fertilizer. 29. How to make alum fertilizer water? Flower farmers in Yanling, Henan, use "alum fertilizer water" to water flowers that like acidic soil, with good results. Common preparation method: 20 kg - 25 kg of water, 1 kg - 1.5 kg of cake fertilizer or hoof slices, 250 g - 300 g of ferrous sulfate (black alum), put the above materials into the tank together, place it in the sun for fermentation for about 1 month, take the supernatant and dilute it with water before use. The soil irrigated with this water has a slightly acidic reaction, and the pH value is about 5.8-6.7. 30. How can we achieve reasonable fertilization? The so-called reasonable fertilization means paying attention to timeliness and amount. The so-called timeliness means that flowers need to be fertilized. For example, when the leaves of flowers become lighter and the plants grow thin and weak, it is time to fertilize. As for when to apply what fertilizer, it depends on the different growth and development stages of flowers. For example, more nitrogen fertilizer can be applied in the seedling stage to promote rapid and strong growth of seedlings; more phosphorus fertilizer can be applied in the bud stage to promote large flowers and strong seeds; fertilization should be properly controlled in the early stage of fruit setting to facilitate fruit setting. No matter when you apply fertilizer, you should pay attention to the right amount. If too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, it will easily lead to leggy growth; if too much potassium fertilizer is applied, it will hinder growth and affect flowering and fruiting. When applying fertilizer, you should pay attention to the following points: (1) Pay attention to the type of flowers when applying fertilizer. Different types of flowers have different requirements for fertilizers. For example, osmanthus and camellia prefer pig manure and avoid human feces and urine; southern flowers such as azalea, camellia, and gardenia avoid alkaline fertilizers; flowers that need to be pruned every year need to increase the proportion of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to facilitate the sprouting of new branches; flowers that are mainly for viewing leaves can focus on nitrogen fertilizer; flowers that are mainly for viewing large flowers (such as chrysanthemums, dahlias, etc.) need to apply an appropriate amount of complete fertilizer during the flowering period to make all the flowers bloom and be beautiful in shape and color; flowers that are mainly for viewing fruits should control fertilizer and water appropriately during the flowering period, and apply sufficient complete fertilizer during the fruiting period to achieve the desired effect; for bulbous flowers, apply more potassium fertilizer to help the bulbs grow; for fragrant flowers, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers during the flowering period to promote the fragrance of the flowers. (2) Pay attention to the season when applying fertilizer. In winter, the temperature is low, plant growth is slow, and most flowers are in a state of growth stagnation, so fertilizer is generally not applied; in spring and autumn, flowers are in the peak growth period, roots, stems, leaves grow, flower buds differentiate, and young fruits expand, all of which require more fertilizers, so more topdressing should be applied appropriately; in summer, the temperature is high, water evaporates quickly, and it is also the peak growth period of flowers, so the concentration of topdressing should be small and the frequency can be more. (3) When applying organic fertilizer, it must be fully decomposed, and raw fertilizer should not be used. In addition, there are many valuable opinions on how to fertilize potted flowers in various places. For example,> |
34. Why is it harmful to flowers to apply eggshells and tea residues? In daily life, some people like to put eggshells in flower pots or use leftover tea to water flowers, thinking that this is good for the growth of flowers, but in fact it is often counterproductive. Because the eggshells are put on the flower pots, the egg whites left in the shells will flow into the surface of the pot soil, generate heat after fermentation, and directly burn the roots of the plants. At the same time, the egg whites will produce a bad smell after fermentation, attracting flies and maggots to bite the roots, which in turn easily induces the occurrence of diseases and insect pests, affecting the growth of flowers. Tea contains theophylline, caffeine and other alkalis, which have a relatively destructive effect on organic nutrients in the soil. At the same time, the leftover tea covers the surface of the pot, and will gradually ferment and rot over time, hindering the ventilation of the pot soil, causing hypoxia in the pot, affecting the respiration of the roots, and is not good for the growth of flowers. However, after the eggshells have been fermented, taking the supernatant as topdressing or baking and crushing the eggshells and applying them to the pot soil is beneficial to the growth and development of flowers. The use of fermented tea residue as basal fertilizer is also beneficial to soil improvement. The proverb "70% of flower cultivation depends on management and 30% on pruning" is an important experience in flower cultivation. Pruning can not only make the branches of flowers evenly distributed, save nutrients, regulate plant vigor, and control excessive growth, so that the flowers have neat plant shapes and beautiful postures, but more importantly, it is conducive to more flowering. Most flowers bloom on new branches. Only by constantly pruning old branches can new branches be promoted, more flowers and more fruits can be produced. Pruning is generally divided into the following two types: (1) Pruning during the dormant period. It is mainly for thinning branches and cutting short. It is best to do it in early spring when the sap begins to flow and the buds are about to sprout. Pruning too early will make it difficult for the wound to heal and the new shoots that sprout will be easily damaged by frost. Pruning too late will cause the new shoots to sprout and waste nutrients. (2) Pruning during the growing period. It is mainly to regulate nutritional growth, including pinching, removing buds, thinning flowers, thinning fruits, and cutting off excessive branches. It can be done at any time during the growing period. Different types of flowers and trees have different pruning times. When pruning flowers and trees that are mainly for viewing, you must first understand the flowering habits of different flowers and trees. For those that bloom in spring, such as plum blossoms, peach blossoms, and winter jasmine, their flower buds are formed on the branches of the previous year, so they should not be pruned in winter, nor before budding in early spring, otherwise, the flower branches will be cut off. Pruning should be done within 1 to 2 weeks after flowering to promote the sprouting of new shoots and the formation of flower branches for the next year. If you wait until autumn or winter to prune, the branches that have formed flower buds in summer will be damaged, affecting flowering in the second year. For flowers and trees that bloom on branches grown in the current year, such as roses, hibiscus, poinsettias, hibiscus, kumquats, daidai, and bergamot, they should be pruned during winter dormancy to promote more new shoots, more flowering, and more fruiting. Climbing woody flowers should generally be pruned during the dormant period or in winter to maintain a neat, symmetrical, and beautiful plant shape. Flowers and trees that are mainly straight are also mostly pruned during the dormant period. Pinching is to pinch (or cut off) the top of the main stem or side branches of flowers with fingers to promote the germination of axillary buds or inhibit the excessive growth of branches, so that the plants grow strong, beautiful, and increase the number of flowers. For general herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia, snapdragon, pepper, and vinca, after the seedlings are established and survived, when the plant height is about 10 cm, they can be topped to promote more branches and more flowers. For example, after the seedlings of Begonia, Fuchsia, and Chrysanthemum are established and survived, they should be topped to promote more side branches, rich plant shapes, and increase the number of flowers. However, for some flowers that make the flowers smaller or unable to bloom after pinching, such as Impatiens, Cockscomb, Jiangxi Wax, etc., it is not suitable to pinch the top. Some woody flowers are topped and pinched when they are repotted in spring or when the main branches grow vigorously to accelerate the formation of branches. For example, pomegranates, roses, plum blossoms, poinsettias, bougainvilleas, night lilacs, etc., can be topped multiple times according to the purpose of cultivation and the growth of the plants. Shrubs in gardens can generally be divided into three categories: flower viewing, fruit viewing, and branch viewing. Different pruning methods should be used according to different viewing purposes. For shrubs that are mainly for viewing flowers, the common ones in Beijing include forsythia, forsythia, yellow rose, bauhinia, lilac, etc. Their flower buds are formed on the branches of the first year, so pruning should be done after flowering in May and June. Summer pruning is mainly for thinning and shaping branches, cutting off cross branches, long branches, dense branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and dead branches to facilitate ventilation and light transmission, so that nutrients can be concentrated; the remaining branches after flowering can be shortened to promote their growth, so as to facilitate more flowering in the next year. For shrubs that bloom in summer, such as roses, hibiscus, wolfberries, crape myrtles, etc., they bloom on new shoots that emerge in the spring of the same year, so pruning is done after the leaves fall in winter. Cut off dense branches, dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, etc. When thinning branches, the stump should not be left too long. Generally, the upper incision starts from the branch point and is cut at a 45° tilt angle, and the incision should be smooth. Weak branches should be pruned heavily, and strong branches should be pruned lightly. 4 to 6 buds can be retained on each branch, and the rest should be cut off. For shrubs that can be used for both flower viewing and fruit viewing, such as holly and goldenrod, some overcrowded branches and diseased and insect-infested branches should be properly pruned after flowering to allow ventilation and light transmission, so as to facilitate fruiting. For some shrubs for viewing branches and trunks, such as red yew and kerria, because they are mainly for viewing their bright young branches, they can be pruned heavily in winter every year, leaving only 15 cm to 20 cm above ground, and the rest should be cut off to encourage them to sprout more new branches next year. General seeds, such as those of begonia and impatiens, do not need to be processed and can be sown directly. For seeds with oil wax on the outer shell, such as magnolia, they can be mixed with wood ash and water to make a paste before sowing. The seed coat of lotus, canna, etc. is relatively hard, so the seed coat needs to be bruised before sowing, and soaked in warm water for 24 hours before sowing. The seeds of Prunus elmifolia should be sown before winter freezing and watered thoroughly. The seed shells will be frozen and cracked in winter, and they will germinate in the spring of the second year. Before sowing, a germination rate test is required for all kinds of seeds. Generally, 100 seeds are taken, soaked in warm water, and placed in a container lined with moist gauze. Germination is carried out at a temperature of about 22°C to test the germination rate of the seeds so as to determine the sowing amount. For woody flowers with thick seed coats, germination is generally required before spring sowing to facilitate rapid and uniform emergence of seedlings and a high seedling success rate. Germination is usually carried out by water immersion and stratification. (1) Water immersion germination. Three water temperatures can be used: one is cold water immersion germination, with a water temperature above 0°C, which is suitable for seeds with thin seed coats, such as wisteria, palm, wintersweet, cedar, etc. The other is warm water immersion germination, with a water temperature of 40°C to 60°C, which is suitable for seeds with thick seed coats, such as peony, peony, bauhinia, maple poplar, Sophora japonica, cypress, golden pine, etc. The third method is to soak the seeds in hot water for germination. The water temperature is 70℃~90℃, which is suitable for seeds with hard seed coats, such as Albizia albizia, Robinia pseudoacacia, and Camphor. When soaking the seeds, the amount of water used is about 3 times the amount of the seeds. Stir the water when pouring it in so that the seeds are heated evenly. When soaking the seeds in hot water, stop stirring after the water temperature drops to the natural temperature. Soak for 13 days. After the seeds absorb water and expand, take them out and put them in 18℃~25℃ for germination. Pour warm water 1~2 times a day, and pay attention to gently turning them. After the seeds break, they can be sown. (2) Stratification germination. The so-called stratification germination is to mix three parts of wet sand and one part of seeds, and keep them moist and refrigerated at a temperature of 0℃~7℃. Magnolia grandiflora, Michelia, Magnolia white, Caprifoliaceae, and seeds that can only germinate every other year all require stratification for germination. Here, for seeds that have been dormant for a long time or seeds that sprout every other year, the variable temperature germination method can be used, that is, after soaking the seeds, keep the temperature at 25℃~30℃ during the day and around 15℃ at night. Repeat this for about 10 to 20 days to promote germination. For example, osmanthus, holly, coral tree, etc. can all use this method. Separating small plants from the mother plant or separating bulbs from the mother plant and planting them as independent new plants is called division propagation. This method is divided into two categories: division and bulb division. (1) Division method. The root suckers, stem suckers, suckers, runners and rhizomes that occur on the mother plant are separated and cultivated into independent new plants. The period of division propagation varies depending on the type of flower. Generally, those that bloom in spring are divided in autumn; those that bloom in autumn are divided in spring. Division in autumn should be carried out when the aboveground part is dormant and the underground part is still active, such as peony and peony; division in spring should be carried out before germination, such as hosta and iris. The division method is mostly used for foliage flowers. The best time to divide the plants is generally in early spring, March to April. When dividing the plants, for perennial flowers, first remove the soil attached to the roots, then use your hands or a sharp knife to press the natural gaps in the roots and separate them in order, so that each small plant after division has at least 2 to 3 buds; for flowers and trees, there is no need to knock out the mother plant, you can use a flower shovel to dig up the soil, dig out the young plants from the root side and plant them. When dividing the plants, try to damage the root system as little as possible to facilitate survival. (2) Bulb division method. This method is mainly used for the propagation of bulbous flowers. The bulb division time is preferably after dormancy. The bulbs can be dug out and separated from the mother plant and cultivated into independent new plants. For example, the small bulbs of hyacinths generally occur around the base. After being separated from the mother plant, they can reach the size of the mother plant after about 4 years of cultivation. Narcissus bulbs can grow into large bulbs after 3 years. Tulip bulbs can form 2 to 3 small bulbs after 1 year of growth, and small bulbs can grow into large bulbs after 1 to 2 years of growth. After one year of growth, gladiolus bulbs can form 1 to 4 large bulbs and can produce many small bulbs. Grafting is the process of artificially grafting the branches or buds of the desired flower plant onto the stem or root of another flower plant. The grafted part is called the scion, and the grafted flower plant is called the rootstock. Grafting is divided into two categories: branch grafting and bud grafting. This method can not only maintain the characteristics of the original variety and overcome the difficulty of reproduction by other methods, but also improve resistance to adverse environmental conditions, promote or inhibit the growth of flowers and trees, and can bloom and bear fruit earlier. This method is mostly used for woody flowers, and a few herbaceous flowers can also use the grafting method. The key to grafting survival is: (1) Mastering the grafting time. Generally, it should be carried out when the sap begins to flow but the buds have not yet sprouted. Branch grafting is mostly done in early spring from February to March, and bud grafting is mostly done in July to August. (2) The scion and the rootstock should be selected from plants with close genetic relationships and affinity. For example, plants of the same family can be grafted with osmanthus or lilac using Ligustrum lucidum as the rootstock. (3) The rootstock should be selected from vigorous one- or two-year-old seedlings or one-year-old cuttings. If the rootstock is older, it will affect survival. The scion should be selected from one-year-old branches with good quality, strong and mature. (4) Pay attention to the operating principles when grafting. The rootstock should be cut first and the scion later (to shorten the time for water evaporation); the tools should be sharp and the cuts should be smooth; the cambium should be aligned, the thin-walled cells should be close, the joints should be tight, and the binding should be appropriately tight. (5) Check in time after grafting. For grafted plants that have survived, the binding should be removed in time, otherwise the seedlings are easily strangled and their normal growth is affected. For grafting with the soil pile method, if new buds are found to have sprouted, the soil pile should be removed immediately to prevent the young buds from not seeing the sun and turning yellow. Cut grafting is a commonly used branch grafting method, which is mostly performed in spring. Generally, a rootstock with a rhizome thickness of 1 cm to 2 cm is selected, and it is cut about 5 cm to 10 cm from the ground and the incision is flattened. On the smooth side of the stock, make a straight and smooth cut about 2.5 cm deep between the xylem and the phloem, then select a healthy branch of the first year, cut the middle part into sections of about 5 cm to 10 cm, with 2 to 3 buds in each section as the scion. Cut off about 1/3 of the xylem on one side of the lower end of the scion, about 2 cm long, and cut a small cut surface about 0.5 cm long on the other side to make it wedge-shaped. Immediately insert the large cut surface into the cut facing the xylem of the stock, so that the scion and the cambium of the stock are closely combined (at least one side must be closely connected). After the grafting, hold the skin slice cut on the stock outside the scion, and use plastic strips to tie the interface from bottom to top (be careful not to move the joint when tying to prevent the cambium of both sides from staggering), and bury it with wet soil. It is better to have the soil pile about 5 cm higher than the scion. Cutting propagation is currently a commonly used propagation method in flower cultivation. It is a method of cutting a part of the root, branch, bud, leaf, etc. of a flower or tree and inserting it into a substrate to make it take root and sprout to form a new plant. This method is determined by the regeneration capacity of various organs of various flower plants. Depending on the cutting material, it can be divided into the following three methods: (1) Branch cutting. Also known as stem cutting. It is a widely used method for propagating seedlings in large quantities. It is divided into hard branch cutting, soft branch cutting and single bud cutting. (2) Root cutting. It is divided into root burying method and direct cutting method. (3) Leaf cutting. It is divided into direct cutting method and flat laying method. In addition, there is water cutting method. (1) Soft branch cutting. Also known as soft branch cutting. This method is often used for flowers and trees such as azalea, camellia, osmanthus, rose, plum blossom, jasmine, rose, nandina domestica, croton, monstera, green radish, ivy, and grass flowers such as chrysanthemum, geranium, dahlia, and salvia. It is carried out when the new shoots or branches are half-mature, mostly in summer and autumn. The length of the cuttings is generally about 5 cm to 10 cm, with 2 to 4 leaves left on the top. The cut end of the cuttings should be cut below the node to facilitate rooting. Use clean sand or vermiculite as the cutting medium. The depth of the cuttings inserted into the medium is about 1/3 of the cutting length. After insertion, spray water, water, and shade. The temperature should be kept at 20℃ to 25℃. (2) Hardwood cuttings. This method is best carried out during the dormant period of the plant. For deciduous flowers and trees, it is done after the leaves fall and before the buds sprout. For evergreen flowers and trees, it is done after they stop growing until the sap flows in spring. Winter jasmine, hibiscus, hibiscus, crape myrtle, oleander, Michelia, gardenia, etc. are suitable for this method of reproduction. In the north, after the leaves fall in winter, the branches of the current year are cut into 20 cm to 30 cm long sections, bundled into bundles and buried in moist sandy soil for wintering. They are taken out in the spring of the following year and cut in the open field. You can also combine pruning and cuttings for cuttings before spring budding. The cuttings should have at least 2 to 3 buds, and the cut should be smooth, with the upper end cut into a horizontal plane and the lower end cut into an inclined plane. The management after cutting is the same as that of softwood cuttings. (3) Single bud cuttings. This method uses one bud and one leaf for cuttings, such as camellia, osmanthus, rubber tree and other flowers and trees. The cuttings are generally less than 10 cm. After cutting, pay special attention to spraying water, shading, and wind protection to prevent the cuttings from losing water and affecting survival. (1) Choose good cuttings. The mother plant for cuttings should have good quality, strong growth, and no diseases and pests. On the same plant, choose branches in the middle and upper parts of the current year facing the sun, with short internodes, thick branches and leaves, and full bud tips. It is not advisable to choose branches that are about to bloom and long branches. On the same branch, hard branch cuttings should use branches in the middle and lower parts, while chrysanthemums should use the tender parts. (2) Select a cutting medium suitable for rooting. This medium should have the characteristics of easy to increase soil temperature, water retention, and ventilation. (3) Correctly handle the cuttings. Treating with chemicals before cutting can promote rooting. Soft branch cuttings are generally cut into 8 cm to 12 cm long sections with 2 to 3 buds on them. The incision at the bottom of the cutting should be 0.5 cm below the node. The incision should be smooth, and the lower leaves should be cut off, leaving only the top 2 to 3 leaves. The depth of the cutting should generally be 3 cm. (4) Create environmental conditions suitable for rooting. The suitable temperature for most flowers to take root is 20℃ to 25℃. Flowers native to the tropics require 25℃ to 30℃ or above. Generally, the soil temperature is 3℃ to 5℃ higher than the air temperature, which is beneficial for rooting. The relative humidity of the air in the cutting bed is 80% to 90%, which is conducive to rooting. Soft branch cuttings require about 30% light. The water content is moderate, and the cuttings are slightly larger at the beginning and slightly dry in the later stage. Therefore, the best time for open-field soft-branch cuttings in North China and other places is from mid-to-late June to mid-August. This period coincides with the rainy season in North China, which can better meet the temperature and humidity conditions required for rooting of cuttings and is conducive to the survival rate of cuttings. (5) Strengthen management after cuttings. Water after cuttings, cover with plastic film, and place in a relatively shaded place to prevent direct sunlight; but increasing light at night is conducive to the survival of cuttings. Open the plastic film 1 to 2 times a day (if small holes have been opened on the film, it is not necessary to open it) to supplement the required oxygen and prevent the occurrence of bacteria. Spray water frequently to keep the cutting bed moderately moist, but do not spray too much water, otherwise the cutting bed will be too wet, affecting the healing and rooting of the cuttings; when the new roots of the cuttings grow to 2 cm to 3 cm, they can be transplanted into pots in time. In order to promote the rooting of flowers and trees such as Milan, Crape Myrtle, Honeysuckle, Wintersweet, Osmanthus, Camellia, Azalea, Magnolia, etc., which are difficult to root, in addition to using auxins such as naphthaleneacetic acid, some economical and simple methods can also be used to promote their rooting. (1) Soak the base of the cutting 2 cm in 0.1% to 0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 12 to 14 hours, remove and immediately cut. (2) Treat the cutting with a white sugar aqueous solution. The concentration used for herbaceous flowers is about 2% to 5%; for woody flowers, it is about 5% to 10%. Soak the base of the cutting 2 cm in the above solution for about 24 hours, remove, rinse the cutting with clean water, and then cut. (3) Dilute the injection of medical vitamin B12 with twice the amount of cold boiled water, immerse the base of the cutting in it, take it out for about 5 minutes, let it dry for a while, and then cut after the solution is absorbed. (4) For some flowers and trees that are difficult to root, you can also ring-strip the base of the branches or tie them with wire during the growth period, so that nutrients accumulate in the ring-striped parts. When the dormant period comes, cut along the ring-striped parts for cuttings, which can promote rooting. (5) Cuttings with heels. When cutting cuttings from camellia, osmanthus, figs and other flowers and trees, you can bring a few branches from the previous year to the base of the cuttings, which will make it easier to root. (6) Increase the bottom temperature of the cutting bed. If you are cutting cuttings, you can put them on a radiator or kang with wooden boards in winter. If conditions permit, it is better to use an electric hotbed for cuttings. If you need to promote the rooting of a large number of flowers and trees that are difficult to root, you can use ABT rooting powder. This powder can not only shorten the rooting time and increase the rooting rate, but also promote the development of a strong root system. The method of use is generally to soak the base of one-year-old tender branches with 50ppm-100ppm liquid for about 0.5-1 hour, and then immediately insert them into the substrate after taking them out. Its rooting effect is better than that of naphthylacetic acid and indolebutyric acid. Plant growth regulators are a type of chemically synthesized substance that regulates and controls plants. They can change the growth, development and flowering process of flower plants. Currently, the following three types of growth regulators have been widely used in flower cultivation: (1) Auxin growth regulators. Low concentrations of this type of agent can promote growth, while high concentrations inhibit growth. They are widely used in flowers to promote rooting of cuttings for asexual reproduction. Commonly used agents are indolebutyric acid (IBA) and naphthylacetic acid (NAA). There are two methods of use: one is a solution, in which IBA is first dissolved in a very small amount of alcohol, then diluted with water to make 5000ppm, and then diluted to the required concentration when used. The other is dry powder. Mix IBA with talcum powder at a ratio of 0.1% to 1%, and dip the base of the cuttings in this mixture before cutting. (2) Gibberellic acid growth regulators. This type of agent has the functions of promoting the germination and growth of various flowers and preventing the shedding of flowers and fruits. Gibberellic acid is easily soluble in water and should be prepared as needed, otherwise it will easily become ineffective. Using 30ppm to 100ppm of gibberellin can make the stems and leaves of many annual and biennial grass flowers (such as snapdragons, marigolds, etc.) and perennial flowers (such as chrysanthemums, peonies, etc.) elongate. Experiments have shown that gibberellin can effectively break the dormancy of seeds, perennial roots and bulbous flowers and promote germination. Spraying gibberellin on ornamental flowers and trees also has the effects of rapid germination, vigorous growth of branches and leaves, and early flowering. (3) Growth inhibitors. This type of agent can control the synthesis or metabolism of hormones in flower plants, change the distribution of assimilated products, and regulate the growth and development of flowers. Its effect can make the stems of flowers short and thick, the leaves dark green, and the leaves thicker. Since the growth of stems is inhibited, the competition for nutrients when the flower buds germinate is reduced, so the flowers can bloom earlier. Commonly used inhibitors are chlormequat and B9. The concentration range varies depending on the type of flowers. The use of chlormequat or B9 can not only significantly reduce the height of flowers, but also extend the life of fresh cut flowers or potted flowers. For example, the base of the cut flower branches of carnations is soaked in 50ppm (summer) or 10ppm~25ppm (winter) chlormequat, or 500ppm B9 overnight, which can extend the viewing time of flowers by 2~3 days. After using the regulator drug, it is necessary to strengthen the management of light, water and fertilizer, otherwise it is not easy to achieve the desired purpose. The leaf cutting method is suitable for flowers that can grow adventitious buds and adventitious roots on the leaves. For example, begonias, gloxinia, tiger tail orchids, stone lotus, spathiphyllum, and ground rooting can all be propagated by leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings need to select strong and fully mature leaves. When cutting begonia leaves, first cut off the petiole and the thin and tender part of the leaf edge to reduce evaporation, and use a knife to cut some horizontal cuts on the veins on the back, and then spread the leaves flat on a substrate of fine sand or peat and sandy soil. Finally, use a few small stones to spread on the leaf surface, or use bamboo sticks to fix the veins so that it is close to the substrate and continuously absorbs water to prevent withering. Later, adventitious roots can grow at the incision and sprout into small plants. When cutting tiger tail orchid leaves, cut the cut leaves into leaf segments about 5 cm long, insert them directly into the sand, and expose 2 cm above the sand surface. New rhizomes can grow at the base of the leaf segments, and sprouts on the upper part to form a new plant. When using gloxinia leaf cuttings, the leaf has a petiole (about 3 cm long) on it. The petiole is inserted into the sand, and a small ball will form at the base of the petiole, which will then take root and sprout. In addition, the scales of lilies can also be used for leaf cuttings. When using leaf cuttings, the leaf can be placed flat on the sand surface and closely connected to the sand surface, and a small plant can grow at the veins of the leaf. Leaf cuttings are usually done indoors and placed in a shaded place after cutting. Use the immersion basin method to water, and never spray water on the leaf surface to prevent the broken veins of the cut leaves from getting wet, which will affect survival. The young branches or semi-mature branches of some flowers and trees can be propagated by water cuttings. This method is simple and has a high survival rate, and is suitable for general family flower growers. When using water cuttings, choose flowers that are suitable for rooting in water, such as glass jade, begonia, gardenia, gloxinia, oleander, fig, rose, croton, Guangdong dieffenbachia, fuchsia, pomegranate and other flower species that are easy to root in cuttings. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as saffron, clover, stone lotus, spathiphyllum, syngonium, and bean sprouts can also be propagated by water cutting. The specific method of water cutting is: insert the cutting directly into the bottle or insert the cutting into a wooden block with holes so that it floats on the water surface. After inserting, pay attention to changing the water frequently or add a few small pieces of charcoal for preservation. When the new roots grow to 2 cm to 3 cm long, they should be potted in time. The following points should be noted when water cutting is carried out: (1) Water cutting should be carried out in a season with a relatively low temperature. In North China and other places, water cutting after the first and middle ten days of September has a higher survival rate. Because the temperature is too high and the water is not changed frequently, the water is easy to deteriorate, causing the cutting to rot. (2) The cutting must be cut flat with a clean sharp knife, otherwise the cutting will also rot easily. (3) It is best to use a dark glass bottle and place it in a dark place. Under such conditions, the cutting is easy to form white healing tissue, which is conducive to rooting. After rooting, a little light can be seen. (4) After the roots have grown (tender roots are 2 to 3 cm long), they should be potted in time. Otherwise, if they are kept in water for too long, the roots will be thin, weak and tender, and they will be easily damaged when potted, which will affect their survival. (5) In the early stage of potting, the soil should be kept moist, and proper shade should be provided. Fertilization should not be applied. "Winter is easier than spring" is the experience of flower experts. How can potted flowers spend spring safely? (1) Avoid cold winds. Potted flowers have been indoors for a long cold winter. In early spring, people often like to open the front and back doors and windows. At this time, cold winds directly invade the flowers and trees, causing tropical and heat-loving flowers such as Milan to "catch a cold", causing them to fall leaves in a short period of time, and in severe cases, the whole plant to die. Therefore, in early spring, doors and windows should be opened on sunny days around noon, and cold winds should be avoided to directly blow on the potted flowers. The number of windows opened should be increased from a few to a lot, and the time should be increased from short to long, so that they can gradually exercise and enhance their adaptability. (2) Prevent sudden changes in temperature. In many areas, especially in the north, the temperature in spring is changeable and cold currents come from time to time. Potted flowers are most afraid of spring cold. Some flowers native to the south are easily damaged by dry winds if they are taken out of the house too early. The appropriate time to take potted flowers out of the house depends not only on climatic conditions but also on the characteristics of the flower varieties. After taking them out of the house, they should be placed in a sunny place sheltered from the wind. In case of bad weather, they should be moved indoors in time. (3) Do not water too much. When spring comes, the wintering flowers that are in a state of slow growth or dormancy have just awakened or sprouted. At this time, they need a certain amount of water. However, do not water them too much. If you water them too much, it will not only cause the branches and leaves to grow too long, affecting flowering and fruiting, but also the potting soil will be damp for a long time, lacking oxygen in the soil, and easily causing root rot. Therefore, watering in spring should be moderate, that is, watering when the soil is dry and moistening. As the weather warms up and the plants grow, gradually increase the amount of watering. However, the spring climate is dry and windy, so you should pay attention to spraying water on the leaves frequently. (4) Do not apply too concentrated fertilizer liquid. After overwintering, potted flowers or potted seedlings are often weak, so it is advisable to apply fully decomposed thin liquid fertilizer or various types of special fertilizers. The amount of fertilizer should be applied from small to large. In spring, it can be applied once every 10 to 15 days. After fertilization, attention should be paid to watering and loosening the soil to make the pot soil loose, so as to facilitate the development of the root system. If concentrated fertilizer is applied at this time, it will be harmful to the growth of young roots and even risk being "burned to death". People have summed up two experiences in the long-term practice of flower cultivation: one is called "no spring out"; the other is called "winter not in". "Spring out" means that you should not rush to take flowers out of the room in early spring. Because the weather in the north is changeable in spring, dry winds often blow, and cold currents hit from time to time. If you take flowers out too early, they are prone to drought winds, and tender buds and leaves are often scorched; at the same time, they are also susceptible to late frost damage, causing sudden large-scale leaf fall, and in severe cases, the whole plant will die, so it is not advisable to take them out too early. In most areas in the north, it is advisable to take flowers out of the room between Qingming and Lixia for flowers that have overwintered indoors. Flowers must go through a period of adaptation to the environment before they are taken out of the room. Generally, about ten days before the flowers are taken out of the room, the windows are opened for ventilation at noon, and they are gradually tempered, and then they are taken out of the room to gradually adapt to the outside temperature. If there is a late frost or strong wind after going out of the room, they still need to be moved indoors in time, and it is appropriate to move them out after the weather improves. "Don't move in in winter", that is, when the weather is just cold, if there is no frost, for most flowers, don't rush to move potted flowers indoors. Because the temperature is fluctuating, sometimes cold and sometimes hot, if the flowers are moved indoors too early, it will be detrimental to their growth and development. At this time, the flowers should be placed in a leeward and sunny place, and let it go through a period of low temperature tempering, which is beneficial for most flowers. However, different types of flowers have different requirements for temperature, so the time to enter the room can be early or late, and it cannot be stereotyped. Under normal circumstances, it is appropriate to move Clivia, Poinsettia, Hibiscus, Fuchsia, Cactus, etc. into the room when the temperature drops to about 10℃. Jasmine, Milan, camellia, kumquat, and evergreen are best brought indoors when the temperature drops to around 5°C. Potted grapes, roses, and figs need to be frozen at -5°C for a period of time to induce dormancy before being moved into a cold room (around 0°C) for storage. Flowers that have just been brought indoors should be ventilated. In places like North China, the summer climate is hot and rainfall increases, which is the peak growth and development period for most flowers and a good time for flower and tree cuttings. However, it is also a period when pests and diseases occur in large numbers, so strict management is required. Pay attention to the following work: (1) Light and shade. In the hot summer, the scorching sun is not conducive to the growth and development of many potted flowers. Therefore, it is necessary to treat different flowers differently according to their living habits. Flowers that like light, such as poinsettia, croton, pomegranate, hibiscus, fig, rose, Milan, and white orchid, should be placed in a sunny place for maintenance. Milan, white orchid, hibiscus, and chrysanthemum need to be slightly shaded in midsummer. Camellia, azalea, gardenia, Clivia, Nandina domestica, etc. should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place after summer. Orchidaceae, hosta, and Nandina flowers should be placed in weak light or diffuse light. At the same time, shade, spray water, and cover the pots should be used to cool down and prevent heatstroke. (2) Watering and fertilizing. In summer, the temperature is high and water evaporates quickly, so potted flowers should be watered in time. However, different flower varieties have different characteristics and different water requirements. Flowers that like humidity, such as daffodils, monstera, and calla lilies, require sufficient water. Flowers that like humidity, such as Milan, jasmine, oleander, hibiscus, and most other flowers, usually need to be "watered" once in the morning and watered once in the afternoon and evening. The amount of watering depends mainly on the size of the plant, weather changes, and the actual dryness and wetness of the potting soil. Flowers grow quickly in summer, so sufficient fertilizer should be provided in time. Fertilization also needs to be treated differently. For general potted flowers, apply decomposed thin liquid fertilizer once every 7 to 10 days; for flowers that prefer acidic soil, apply alum fertilizer water once every 10 days or so. When applying fertilizer, avoid splashing fertilizer water on the leaves, otherwise it is easy to damage the leaf surface. In summer, fertilization should be carried out in the evening. Before fertilizing, pay attention to loosening the soil. Loosening the soil is conducive to the root system to absorb fertilizer and water, and at the same time it is conducive to the reproduction and growth of microorganisms, promotes the accelerated decomposition of organic matter in the soil, and provides a variety of nutrients for the growth and development of potted flowers. Pay attention to watering the next day after fertilization. (3) Pruning and ventilation. The main pruning of potted flowers in summer is to pinch the top, remove buds, remove leaves, thin flowers, and thin fruits. For some spring-sown herbaceous flowers, pinch the tops in time when they grow to a certain height to promote more branches and more flowering. For some woody flowers, such as kumquat, pinch the tops when the branches of the year grow to 15 cm to 20 cm in length to concentrate nutrients and facilitate flowering and fruiting. In summer, adventitious buds often form at the base or on the stems of some flowers, consuming nutrients and disrupting the plant shape. They should be removed in time. For some ornamental flowers, such as chrysanthemums, camellias, and roses, some of the excessive flower buds should be removed to make the flowers larger and more colorful. For ornamental fruit flowers, such as pomegranates, kumquats, and bergamots, some young fruits should also be removed in time. Generally, only one fruit should be left on a short fruiting branch, so that the fruit is larger and more colorful. In addition, if you find a long branch, you should cut it off in time. When pruning, you can shape it according to the morphological characteristics of the flower and your personal preferences. (4) Cuttings and sowing. Summer is the right time for cuttings of some evergreen flowers and trees, such as Milan, jasmine, azalea, and hibiscus, which are easy to survive. The dog days are also a good time for bud grafting and grafting, such as bud grafting plum blossoms and peach blossoms, and grafting white orchids. Summer is also the right time to sow some potted flowers. For example, pansies can bloom around National Day if they are sown in July. Cineraria is sown in July and August and can bloom in the severe winter when there are few flowers. Gloxinia and carnation are sown in August and September and bloom in the summer of the following year. Some flowers, such as daffodils, cyclamen, fuchsia, tulips, gloxinia, begonia, calla lily, geranium, freesia, and Euphorbia pulcherrima, are dormant or semi-dormant during the hot summer. During this period, metabolism slows down and growth stagnates. Therefore, in summer maintenance, appropriate measures should be taken according to the physiological characteristics of the above flowers, and careful care should be taken to ensure that they can successfully pass the dormant period. The main measures are: (1) Place dormant plants in a cool, ventilated place to avoid strong light and rain, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot and even cause the whole plant to die. (2) Watering should be strictly controlled. Excessive watering at this time will make the soil in the pot too wet, which is very likely to cause root rot. Too little watering will easily cause the roots to shrink, so it is better to keep the soil in the pot slightly moist. (3) Stop fertilizing. During dormancy, the physiological activity is very weak and fertilizer is not needed. Therefore, no fertilizer should be applied. Otherwise, it is easy to cause root rot, bulb rot, and even the death of the whole plant. In addition, for bulbous flowers such as cyclamen and tulips, the bulbs can be dug up after summer dormancy and stored in a cool, ventilated and dry place. The climate in autumn gradually changes from cool to cold. At this time, the management of potted flowers should pay attention to the following management. (1) Appropriate amount of water and fertilizer. After autumn, water and fertilizer management should be treated differently according to the habits of different flowers. For autumn chrysanthemums, osmanthus, camellia, azalea, wintersweet, etc. that bloom once a year, timely topdressing with liquid fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus fertilizer 2 to 3 times, otherwise not only will the flowers be few and small, but also the buds will fall off. For roses, Milan, jasmine, etc. that bloom multiple times a year, sufficient water and fertilizer should continue to be supplied to promote continuous flowering. For most flowers, after the Cold Dew Festival in northern regions, fertilizer is generally not required to facilitate wintering. As the temperature drops, except for flowers that bloom in autumn and winter or early spring and grass flowers sown in autumn, which can continue to be watered normally according to the actual needs of each flower, the frequency and amount of watering for other flowers should be gradually reduced to avoid excessive water and fertilizer, which will cause excessive growth, affect flower bud differentiation and cause frost damage. (2) Pruning and shaping. When the temperature is around 20℃ in autumn, most flowers tend to sprout more tender branches. Except for some that are retained as needed, the rest should be cut off in time to reduce nutrient consumption. The remaining tender branches should also be pinched off in time. For chrysanthemums, dahlias, roses, jasmine, etc., after the buds appear in autumn and grow to a certain size, except for the top large bud that grows well, the other side buds should be removed. (3) Timely seed collection. The seeds of many flowers mature around mid-autumn and need to be collected in time. After harvesting, the seeds of saffron, morning glory, etc. are removed and dried, and then stored in a cloth bag in a low-temperature and ventilated place. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Many potted flowers cultivated in the north are native to tropical or temperate zones and like warmth. Therefore, they need to be moved into the room one after another in late autumn or early winter. The placement after entering the room should take into account the habits of various flowers. Usually, flowers blooming in winter and spring (crabica claws, cyclamen, melon-leaf chrysanthemum, poinsettia, camellia, etc.) and grass flowers sown in autumn (carnation, snapdragon, etc.), as well as flowers that like light and warmth (Milan, jasmine, white orchid, fusanthemum, etc.) should be placed in the windowsill or in the windowsill with plenty of sunlight; some flowers that like half-shady in summer and winter with light (such as Clivia, fuchsia, etc.) should also be placed in the sunlight; flowers that like warm and half-shady in nature (such as cymbidium, begonia, azalea, etc.) should be placed farther from the windowsill Wherever; evergreen trees that like sunlight but can withstand low temperatures or dormant flowers (such as osmanthus and citrus) can be placed in cool places with scattered light (above 0℃); other flowers that can withstand low temperatures but have fallen leaves or have no strict lighting requirements (such as potted lotus, water lily, haram, etc.) can be placed in cold places without light; small pomegranates, roses, figs, etc. must be frozen outdoors at -5℃ for a period of time to promote dormancy, and then moved into the cold room (about 0℃) for storage, without lighting. Pay attention to ventilation indoors. Not only should the flowers be ventilated when they first enter, but also open windows to ventilate at noon in sunny weather. This can not only reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases, but also facilitate the healthy growth of flowers. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : In winter, the indoor air is dry. For some evergreen flowers that like shade and moisture, such as turbidity, such as turbid, Milan, camellia, white orchid, the leaves should be sprayed with water similar to room temperature to remove dust and clean, so as to facilitate photosynthesis, but spraying water cannot increase moisture in the pot to prevent root rot. Indoor pot flowers in the family season are prone to aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and other pests. Prevention and control should be paid in time. |
The water required by foliage plants can be easily solved during watering, but the difficulty lies in their special requirements for air humidity. Because most of them are native to tropical rainforests, they require the air humidity to be at least around 60%. Therefore, air humidity is an important factor in maintaining the green leaves of plants. In northern homes, the relative humidity is mostly below 60%. Under normal circumstances, as long as it is not less than 50%, most varieties can still grow normally. On the contrary, if the humidity is less than 40%, the leaves of the plants will have burnt edges and withered yellowing. At this time, water should be sprayed frequently, or covered with plastic covers, or deep basin evaporation methods should be implemented to increase the air humidity. If foliage plants are in a dry environment for a long time, not only will the leaves lose their luster, but the growth potential of the entire plant will also weaken, grow slowly or stagnate, and eventually wither and die. Foliage plants bought from flower shops often grow poorly, mostly because they are not adapted to the dry air in the room. Therefore, controlling humidity is another key to the maintenance and management of foliage plants.
Why should air humidity be increased when growing flowers on the balcony?
All physiological functions of flowers require water. Without water, the metabolism of flowers will stop and lead to death. Flowers absorb water in two ways, namely from soil moisture and air humidity. In hot seasons, the air humidity is high, which correspondingly reduces the temperature, which is good for the growth of flowers. Some flowers that like shade and humidity can only survive in high air humidity. For example, orchids, monstera, ferns and begonias require a relative humidity of 80%-85% in summer, and not less than 65%-75% in winter; evergreen ornamental flowers such as hibiscus, white orchids, five-color plums, jasmine, rubber trees, poinsettias, etc. require a relative humidity of not less than 70% in summer and not less than 60% in winter; even cacti or succulent flowers that like drought must have a relative humidity of more than 60% in the summer growth season to grow well. The balcony is high up in the building. In hot seasons, the sunlight is strong, which makes the balcony ground, fences, walls, etc. absorb more heat and dissipate heat slowly. Therefore, the balcony temperature is high, which reduces the air humidity. Usually, the air humidity is not high because the building is high and windy. If the air humidity of the balcony is low for a long time, the flower plants will appear dull and lifeless, and even the new buds will be dry and the leaves will have burnt edges and spots, which will seriously affect the growth and development of flowers and flowering and fruiting. Therefore, the air humidity should be increased when
growing flowers on the balcony. What kind of soil is commonly used for potted flowers?
Different flowers and their different growth and development stages have different requirements for soil. The commonly used potting soil materials are roughly the following: Plain sandy soil This is a fine sandy soil with a pure texture, less clay particles, and smooth drainage. This soil is often used as soil for sowing general flowers, or as soil for cutting branches and buds of herbaceous flowers and cutting branches of woody flowers. It is also the main material for preparing culture soil. Peat soil, also known as peat soil, is collected from peat swamps. It is formed under flooded and anaerobic conditions after the continuous accumulation of organic matter. Its organic matter content varies, some as high as 80%--90% or more. It contains a large amount of fiber and humic acid. It is soft, has strong fertilizer absorption and water retention capabilities, and has good water permeability and air permeability. Peat soil is acidic or neutral soil, contains organic matter, and is suitable for cutting soil for evergreen flowers and trees with slow rooting, or mixed with plain sandy soil in half and half for sowing and cutting soil for general flowers. It can also be used to prepare culture soil. Garden soil is the mature loam on the surface of the garden, which can be used as soil for flower beds or to prepare culture soil. Furnace ash soil has strong drainage and air permeability and can be used to prepare culture soil. Furnace ash slag can be placed at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Mountain forest humus soil is formed by the natural accumulation of dead branches and leaves, mosses and wind-blown sand in the mountain forest and fermented and decomposed. Humus soil can be made into culture soil after a little preparation. River mud is sedimentary soil in fish ponds and lotus ponds, containing a large amount of organic matter. After being dug out in autumn or winter, it can be dried in the winter, weathered, and mixed with yellow clay in half, and then used as soil for cultivating aquatic flowers such as lotus and water lily. The river mud is dried and repeatedly turned over and pounded, and can be used as cultivation soil after one year. Mountain mud is commonly known as orchid soil. It is a natural humus soil produced in the mountainous areas of Zhejiang. It is made of fallen leaves accumulated for many years and decayed. It has a light texture, is breathable, drains, and retains water and fertilizer. It is a good potting soil. It is slightly acidic and suitable for cultivating orchids, azaleas, camellias, etc. that like acidic soil. It can also be used as soil for tree stump bonsai cultivation. Guangdong pond mud is a fertile pond mud in South China. It is the topsoil deposited at the bottom of the fish pond for many years. It is gray-black in color, contains the remains and excrement of rotten and decomposed aquatic animals, is rich in organic matter, has sufficient nutrients, and has good drainage. It is dug when the pond is dry in winter, dried and crushed, and sieved for use. Large grains can be placed at the bottom of the pot because they are not easy to break and there is no risk of stagnant water. Neutral or slightly acidic.
What are acidic soil and alkaline soil?
Soil pH is a term that measures the acid and alkalinity content in the soil. PH value is a symbol that indicates the degree of acidity and alkalinity. Its corresponding values with acidity and alkalinity are as follows: PH value 3-4 5 6 7 8 9 10-11 Indicates Strong acidity Acidity Weak acidity Neutral Weak alkalinity Alkalinity Strong alkalinity Soil pH value less than 7 is acidic soil, and soil pH value greater than 7 is alkaline soil. Table of soil acidity and alkalinity conditions for various flowers and trees: Acid-resistant flowers and trees (pH4--5) Azalea, cyclamen, gardenia, coleus, purple spiderwort, ferns, orchids, etc. Suitable for weakly acidic flowers and trees (pH5--6) Cyclamen, begonia, amaryllis, primrose, camellia, jasmine, Milan, five-needle pine, lily, gladiolus, palm family, white orchid, gloxinia, etc. Suitable for neutral to slightly acidic flowers and trees (pH6--7) Chrysanthemum, asparagus, rose, narcissus, hyacinth, osmanthus, four-season primrose, asparagus, poinsettia, fuchsia, taro, Clivia, purple magnolia, and begonia. Suitable for neutral to slightly alkaline flowers and trees (pH7-8) Rose, dianthus, geranium, cactus, winter jasmine, boxwood, nandina, sweet pea, plum, cypress, etc.
How to use a simple method to determine the acidity and alkalinity of potting soil
The simplest way to determine the pH value is to buy some pH test paper, litmus paper and a standard colorimetric card from a chemical reagent store. When measuring, take a small spoonful of potting soil and place it at the bottom of a clean bowl. Add a small amount of distilled water until it just covers the test soil, but not too much. Then stir it evenly to clarify, which is the soil leachate. Use a bamboo stick to dip a little soil extract on a small test paper. Red is acidic and yellow is alkaline. You can compare the color displayed on the test paper with the standard colorimetric card to find the color card number with a similar color, which is the pH value of the pot soil.
What role do the three elements of fertilizer play in potted flowers?
The various mineral elements required for plant growth and development are required in the largest amount, and the most important ones are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Therefore, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are called the three elements of fertilizer. Their functions are:
Nitrogen (N) Nitrogen fertilizer is also called foliar fertilizer. It can make plants grow rapidly, with luxuriant branches and leaves and dark green leaves. Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied mainly in the seedling stage and foliage flowers. In the early stage of plant growth, that is, the vegetative growth period, nitrogen should not be lacking. It is generally applied from spring to early summer. If nitrogen fertilizer is continued to be applied when the growth and development of the plant stops (after summer), the stems and leaves will grow too long, and the plant will be difficult to mature in the end, which will seriously affect flowering and fruiting. And the stems and leaves are weak and easily damaged by diseases and insects. Therefore, before the plant enters the reproductive growth period (flower bud differentiation period), the application of nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped. Human feces, bean cake, ammonium sulfate, urea, etc. are all nitrogen fertilizers.
Phosphorus (P) Phosphorus fertilizer is also called fruit fertilizer. It can promote flower bud differentiation and bud formation, make the flowers colorful and fragrant, the fruits large and good, and promote the growth of plants. It is most effective to apply it in the late stage of plant growth and development (reproductive growth period). Therefore, before flowering and after the fruit is hung, more phosphorus fertilizer can be applied. Plants have the ability to store phosphorus fertilizer in their bodies and can adjust the use according to growth needs. Therefore, it can be applied in the base fertilizer at one time. The plant's absorption capacity for phosphorus fertilizer has a certain limit. Calcium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, phosphate rock powder, etc. are all phosphorus fertilizers.
Potassium (K) Potassium fertilizer is also called root fertilizer. It can make the stems and roots grow strong, not easy to fall over, and enhance the ability to resist diseases and insect pests and cold. It is indispensable in the early stage of plant development, in the seedling stage, the shoot stage and after the transplanting of seedlings. You can apply more potassium fertilizer. In the later stages of plant development, potassium fertilizer helps complete photosynthesis and plays an important role in the production of water compounds, especially for bulbous flowers that can store a large amount of carbohydrates. Therefore, potassium fertilizer is indispensable throughout the growth process of the plant. Potassium fertilizer can be applied in large quantities to weaken photosynthesis of potted flowers that have been placed indoors for a long time due to insufficient light. Potassium fertilizer will not cause fertilizer damage due to excessive application. Wood ash, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, etc. are all potassium fertilizers.
What are the adverse phenomena of plant growth when the potting soil lacks fertilizer?
When the potting soil lacks fertilizer, the plant will be short, thin, weak, with few branches and abnormal leaves, and it will not look strong. Due to the lack of different fertilizer elements, the poor growth phenomena are also different: if the potting soil lacks nitrogen, the leaves are small and the leaf color is light yellow. The lower leaves turn yellow first and then gradually develop until the whole plant loses its green color. The lower leaves are more yellow and pale than the upper leaves. If the potting soil lacks phosphorus, the leaves are curled and the leaf color is dark green. The lower leaf veins turn yellow and bronze, the number of flowers is small, the root system is underdeveloped, and the young shoots germinate slowly. If the potting soil lacks potassium, the edges of the lower leaves appear brown, and the leaves lose their green color and turn white from the tip to the edge and middle of the lower leaves. Various color spots appear between the veins. If the potting soil lacks iron, burnt brown spots appear on both sides of the veins and inside the leaf margins and leaf tips and dry up. Sometimes they expand to form a large area of dryness, and only the larger leaf veins remain green.
There are three ways to fertilize potted flowers:
(1) Applying base fertilizer. Applying base fertilizer for potted flowers is very important. If the base fertilizer is sufficient, less topdressing can be applied, and even special chemical fertilizers can be used as topdressing. Because the pots need to be changed after 1-2 years, it will not affect the quality of the potting soil.
Organic fertilizer made from fully fermented domestic waste such as decomposed human feces, stable manure, broken bones, fish, poultry offal, rotten vegetables, etc. is suitable as base fertilizer for potted flowers. The method of use is to mix 10% to 30% into the culture soil, keep it moist, and turn it over frequently to fully blend the fertilizer and soil. Use it after a winter or 2-3 months in the high temperature season. According to different ingredients, different flowers can be potted, overturned or repotted with soil. Hoofed horns and poultry feathers can be used as base fertilizer and can be placed directly on the bottom of the pot when the flowers are potted. Sesame paste residue, bean cake and other oily fertilizers and bone meal are used as base fertilizer in the same way as manure, and the amount mixed into the culture soil is 3%-5%.
For flowers and trees that are not repotted in the same year, when the flowers and trees are dormant, a circular ditch or a symmetrical short ditch can be made along the edge of the pot, and some of the above fermented organic fertilizers can be applied, and then covered with new culture soil, which can also replace the application of base fertilizer.
Inorganic fertilizers (chemical fertilizers) such as superphosphate and phosphate rock powder can be used at 0.5% for phosphorus fertilizer, ammonium sulfate can be used at 0.2% and urea can be used at 0.1% for nitrogen fertilizer, and potassium sulfate and potassium chloride can be used at 0.1% and mixed into the culture soil two weeks ago as base fertilizer.
(2) Topdressing During the growing season of flowers and trees, applying thin liquid fertilizer to make up for the lack of base fertilizer is called topdressing. For 1 part of fermented urine, bean cake water, fish intestine water, rice washing water, etc., add 10-20 times of water, or use urea or potassium dihydrogen phosphate to make a 0.1%-0.2% aqueous solution, apply 1-2 times a week, and apply once every half a month after the beginning of autumn.
When applying topdressing, you should master the following: apply more nitrogen and potassium fertilizers during the vegetative growth period, apply more phosphorus fertilizers during the flower bud formation period, loosen the soil the day before fertilizing, and water the next morning after fertilizing; apply after the beginning of spring, but not after the autumnal equinox; apply when buds appear, but not when buds crack; apply before rain and on sunny days, but not after rain; apply when the climate is dry, but not in the rainy season; apply when the soil in the basin is dry, but not when the soil in the basin is wet; apply more when the climate is suitable for vigorous growth, but not when the climate is hot and the growth is stagnant; do not apply when newly planted, growing too long, or dormant; apply thin fertilizer frequently, and do not apply thick fertilizer; for chrysanthemums and jasmine that like fertilizer, apply more fertilizer from light to thick fertilizer, while for conifers such as five-needle pine that are resistant to barrenness, apply less fertilizer rather than thin fertilizer; apply before and after flowering, but not during peak flowering period; apply in the morning and evening, but not at noon; apply more fertilizer to strong seedlings, but less fertilizer to weak seedlings; do not be too hungry or too full; do not apply if it is not fully decomposed or diluted.
(3) Foliar fertilization: Spraying fertilizer solution on the leaves to make up for the lack of root fertilization is called foliar fertilization. As the fertilizer increases, the plants grow stronger, with more branches and greener ground, more colorful flowers, and stronger disease resistance, but it cannot replace soil fertilization. Only inorganic fertilizers such as urea, ammonium sulfate, potassium chloride, superphosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. that are easily soluble in water can be used in the morning and evening when the temperature is low or high. The temperature is high and the plants are easy to dry and cannot be absorbed. The concentration of 0.1%-0.2% is not suitable. Too light fertilizer has low efficiency and too concentrated fertilizer is difficult to absorb.
What should be paid attention to when fertilizing potted flowers?
A flower proverb says: "Whether it lives depends on water, and whether it grows depends on fertilizer." Reasonable fertilization is one of the key issues in potted flower maintenance. Proper fertilization will result in strong seedlings, lush leaves, colorful flowers and large fruits. Improper fertilization will cause branches and leaves to shrink, the plants to sluggish, and even die. The following points should be paid attention to when fertilizing potted flowers at home:
(1) Fertilize according to the different growth periods of different flowers and plants. A proverb about flowers says: "Clear orchids, turbid jasmines." It means that orchids prefer light fertilizers, while jasmines prefer thick fertilizers. Generally, most flowers and trees prefer light fertilizers, and few prefer thick fertilizers. Although jasmine likes thick fertilizers, it can only be applied in the dog days, with strong sun exposure and plenty of water. If you apply thick fertilizer as soon as it leaves the room, it will be bad. Although chrysanthemums like strong fertilizers, if too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied in the early growth stage, they will grow too long and it will be difficult to form flower buds. Only during the process of forming flower buds can the amount and concentration of fertilizer be gradually increased. Gardenia, azalea, camellia, jasmine and other flowers and trees that prefer acidic soil should not be fertilized with alkaline fertilizers such as ammonia water and sodium nitrate. Bulbous flowers and flowers and trees that need to be heavily pruned every year should be fertilized with more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Apply winter fertilizer half a month before frost to improve cold resistance; apply germination fertilizer before budding in early spring to make the buds grow larger and sprout faster; apply pregnancy fertilizer when the spring shoots are about to mature to promote flower bud differentiation and plump buds; apply thin nutrient fertilizer after flowering to restore the tree to bloom or fruit. During the peak flowering period and the early stage of fruit setting, fertilizer and water should be controlled, otherwise the flowers and fruits will fall easily. Seedlings grow rapidly, so apply more nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. Apply more phosphorus fertilizer before flowering and budding.
(2) Loosen the soil before fertilization so that fertilizer and water can penetrate quickly and be easily absorbed. Also, be careful not to let fertilizer and water fall on leaves and buds, which will affect growth. Acidic fertilizers such as human feces, superphosphate, and ammonium carbonate cannot be mixed with alkaline fertilizers such as plant ash and ammonia water, otherwise they will be neutralized and lose their fertilizer effect. Acidic fertilizers should be used for alkaline potting soil, and alkaline fertilizers should be used for acidic potting soil. Fertilization should not be done with a single type of fertilizer. Nitrogen fertilizer combined with phosphorus and potassium can improve fertilizer efficiency. Inorganic fertilizer combined with organic fertilizer can prolong fertilizer efficiency and prevent soil compaction. It can also improve soil ventilation, water infiltration, water retention, and fertilizer retention.
(3) When fertilizing on the balcony, pay attention to environmental hygiene and be careful not to dirty the clothes drying on the balcony downstairs, which would affect neighborhood relations.
How to pot flower seedlings?
Potting refers to the beginning of flower cultivation in pots, also known as potting. Large seedlings of woody flowers are generally potted from early December to late March when the flowers and trees are dormant or just sprouting. Otherwise, it will affect normal growth and development and weaken the tree vigor. It will take a long time to rejuvenate. For concentrated cutting propagation, the seedlings should be divided and potted in time after they have roots and leaves. New seedlings should be potted when they are mature. For most perennial flowers, they should be potted when the young buds begin to sprout.
When planting bare-root seedlings (without soil on the roots of the seedlings), it is advisable to plant the delicate seedlings or those with severe root damage in plain sandy soil for a period of time. Pay attention to wind protection in spring and shade in summer when necessary. After the root system is strong, turn the pot over and plant it in culture soil. Strong bare-root seedlings or seedlings with soil on their roots, as well as perennial flowers, can be planted in culture soil according to the growth and habits of the seedlings, and some base fertilizer can be added appropriately.
Before planting, choose an appropriate flower pot according to the size and growth rate of the seedlings, and be careful not to plant small seedlings in a large pot. When using a new pot, soak it with water first. Old pots often have water stains and debris, so they should be cleaned. Pad the pot holes with tiles or block them with weeds. For flowers that are afraid of waterlogging, a 1-4 cm thick layer of residues or coarse sand and stones sifted from the culture soil should be used as a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot according to the size of the pot. Broken tiles should be used as a drainage layer for pottery and porcelain pots, and the drainage layer should be thicker than that of a tile pot. A layer of subsoil is laid on the drainage layer. Its thickness depends on the depth of the pot and the size of the plant. Generally, the soil is filled to the original planting depth of the plant when potting. Plants with strong stems and roots can be planted deeply, but those with fleshy stems and roots should not be planted too deep. There should be a water outlet at the top of the pot. The depth of the water outlet
should be based on the amount of water that can penetrate into the bottom of the pot when it is filled once. When potting bare-root seedlings, the subsoil should be piled into a small hill in the center of the pot. One hand should be used to straighten the seedlings so that the roots can be evenly spread out. The other hand should be used to fill the soil. The seedlings should be gently lifted up as they are filled so that the roots extend downward at a 45° angle. For flowers with long roots, the seedlings can be rotated when potting so that the long roots are evenly coiled in the pot. After potting any flowers, the soil must be piled up firmly. Do not leave the soil empty below and solid above or with holes. Compacting by hand can easily damage the roots. The soil for potting requires moisture, that is, it can be lumped together and scattered when kneaded. After potting, it is advisable to place it in a sheltered, damp place without watering for the time being. When the weather is dry, you can spray water at any time to protect the seedlings. Generally, it should be watered thoroughly after 4-48 hours. This can not only prevent the roots from rotting and shrinking, but also promote the rapid growth and rejuvenation of new roots. After placing it in a shaded place for about 7 days, it can be moved to a sunny place or under a shade shed according to the habits of the seedlings, and then transferred to normal maintenance.
Combined with potting, the plants should be pruned, and the long fibrous roots, diseased and dead branches, and overly dense branches and leaves should be cut off. For overly weak plants and flowers and trees that bloom on branches of the current year, they can be cut off 10 cm from the base of the stem to promote the growth and development of strong branches.
Why do potted flowers need to be repotted? How to turn the pot and repot?
After 1-3 years of cultivation, the roots of potted flowers and trees are all over the pots, the nutrients in the pot soil are exhausted, and the pot soil is alkaline due to long-term watering. The soil is compacted, the air permeability is poor, and it does not retain water. Even if topdressing is often applied, the flowers and trees will not grow well. At the same time, as flowers and trees grow up, the original flower pots are no longer suitable for their growth and development, so they need to be turned over and repotted.
Turning over and repotting are regular tasks for flower cultivation. If potted flowers are not turned over and repotted for many years, they will not grow well. By turning over and repotting, the size of the flower pot can be made proportional to the seedlings and the nutritional conditions can be improved.
Turning over pots generally means transplanting the seedlings that have grown for a period of time after being potted into a larger pot, or moving the seedlings that were originally potted with plain sand and bare roots into culture soil for planting. When turning over pots, the original soil mass does not move, and there is no damage to the roots and the above-ground parts. Therefore, the time for turning over pots is generally not limited by the season.
When turning over pots, the original pot soil should not be too wet or too dry. When the plant is out of the pot, use the index finger and middle finger of one hand to clamp the base of the plant, and the palm of the hand is close to the soil surface; lift the bottom of the pot with the other hand and turn it over, and use the palm to gently remove the edge of the pot, and the whole mass can be removed, then remove the drainage layer at the bottom of the soil mass, and plant the outer fibrous roots in a large pot with a little tidying.
Repotting refers to the process of shaping and pruning the potted flowers that have been cultivated to maintain their beautiful shape and long-term vigorous growth before they sprout in spring. Repotting is usually done before budding in spring. Wintersweets, camellias, plum blossoms, and winter jasmines that bloom in early spring can be repotted after they bloom. Jasmine, roses, hibiscus, pomegranates, and other fast-growing and blooming potted flowers should be repotted every year. Camellias, azaleas, citrus, pine, and cypresses that grow slowly can be repotted once every 2-3 years. Do not water the pots a few days before repotting so that the potting soil can separate from the potting wall. Cut off 1/3 of the soil in the original soil ball, and cut off some of the coiled roots and old roots. For potted flowers that have been finalized, the original plant can be repotted. Generally, a larger pot is used. After removing the pot, the fibrous roots and rotten roots should be removed, and part of the original soil should be removed and replaced with culture soil. Some flowers can also be divided in combination with repotting.
Some practices and maintenance methods for repotting and repotting are basically the same as those for potting.
What should I do if the roots of the plant are full in the pot?
At what state should potted foliage plants be repotted? This depends on whether the soil on the surface of the pot is swollen, or roots emerge from the holes at the bottom of the pot. This means that the roots in the pot are full. At this time, the pot should be repotted and the soil should be changed in time, otherwise the plant will weaken due to malnutrition or airtightness.
First, the plant should be removed from the pot, and the old and rotten roots should be cut off. You can also shake off some of the old soil on the roots. Find a larger pot, put a few small stones at the bottom of the pot, fill in a small amount of new soil first, put the plant in the pot, and then gradually add new soil until it is filled and compacted.
If you only want to change the soil and do not change the size of the pot, you should shake off 1/3 of the old soil on the roots and cut off 1/3 of the old leaves, so that the roots can absorb water and the leaves can evaporate water to maintain a balance.
Why are some grass flowers not suitable for transplanting?
Flowers with taproots that are not suitable for transplanting have straight taproots and very few lateral roots. After the taproot is cut off during transplanting, the lateral roots do not grow vigorously and the ability to absorb nutrients is reduced, so it is difficult for transplanting to survive or grow poorly. Morning glory, poppy, and californica belong to this category. This kind of flowers is best cultivated by direct seeding. If transplanting is required, it can be transplanted in a small pot soon after germination. After the seedlings grow up, they can be transplanted without damaging the taproot.
Some flowers are not resistant to transplanting, such as violets and osmanthus, which cannot be transplanted multiple times or bare-rooted. When transplanting, try to make large clumps, not scattered clumps.
Why do some flowers need to be transplanted several times?
Cultivated flowers are usually raised in batches to beautify the environment or arrange flower beds, which require neatness and beauty. However, it is often found that the survival rate of some flowers planted in flower beds is not high or they grow very weak, and the ideal beautification effect cannot be achieved. The main reason is that during the seedling raising process, the transplanting and squatting measures are not favorable. Some herbaceous flowers, such as Impatiens, Asters, Zinnias, and Marigolds, are easy to grow tall and fall over. To cultivate short, neat, drought-resistant, and waterlogged seedlings, you need to transplant and squat the seedlings several times during cultivation. When the seedlings grow two true leaves, they should be separated with bare roots in time, with a row spacing of 10 cm. Water them after planting, and water them again after 2-3 days to slow down the growth of the seedlings. Then, when the topsoil is not sticky, loosen the soil and squat the seedlings in time. The squatting time depends on the weather. Generally, it takes about 1 week. When the seedlings wilt at noon, start watering and combine with fertilization. After fertilization, the seedlings grow significantly and water them again. When the branches and leaves of the rows are overlapping, transplant the seedlings again. When transplanting the seedlings, cut off the main root to promote the proliferation of lateral roots. The diameter of the cut is 8-10 cm. After planting, water them twice to slow down the growth of the seedlings. Loosen the soil in time for each subsequent watering, and combine watering with fertilization. From sowing to planting in the flower bed, after 2-3 transplanting, the grass and flowers grow vigorously, do not wilt after planting, and are neat and uniform. The grass and flowers raised at home should not be planted too densely. There should also be a squatting process during the seedling growth stage, and the soil should be loosened and fertilized frequently to thrive. The cutting propagation of saffron and chrysanthemums should also be cultivated in the same way to grow ideal seedlings.
What tasks are included in the pruning of flowers and trees?
Pruning is one of the important means to grow flowers and trees well. All flowers and trees will lose their ornamental value if they are allowed to grow naturally. Pruning can not only create a good plant shape, but also regulate the reasonable distribution and supply of nutrients in the body, prevent the growth of branches and leaves, and is conducive to the differentiation and formation of flower buds; it can also create good ventilation and light conditions to reduce the occurrence of diseases and pests. Flower and tree pruning mainly includes the following six tasks:
(1) Shortening Cutting off 1/3-3/4 of the tip of the branch is called shorting. Its purpose is to stop the endless extension of the branch and promote the germination of the axillary buds below the cut, so as to grow more side branches to increase the flowering area, make the plant shape fuller and rounder, and prevent the tree from being hollow inside. In order to make the crown extend to the periphery and the branches at all levels have clear layers, the cut should be located above an axillary bud growing outward. After the cut bud germinates, the extension branch of the mother branch can extend to the periphery of the crown to avoid the formation of inward branches.
(2) Thinning When the branches inside the plant are too dense, they should be partly thinned out from the base. The objects of thinning are cross branches, parallel branches, inward branches, diseased branches and aging branches to prevent the tree shape from being disordered and make them have clear layers, which is conducive to ventilation, light transmission and flowering. When thinning, the unwanted branches should be cut close to the cortex of the mother branch and no stumps should be left.
(3) Pinching: Cutting off or removing the top buds of branches is called pinching. Herbaceous flowers such as early chrysanthemums, impatiens, asters, and phlox all need to be pinched. If they are left to grow naturally, they can only grow into a very tall single-stem plant with few flowers and cannot form a round and plump cluster. After pinching the growth point of the main branch, the plant can be stopped from growing taller and the axillary buds can be stimulated to germinate and form many side branches. After pinching the side branches, more secondary side branches can be formed, which doubles the number of flowering sites.
(4) Bud removal: Removing the axillary buds on the branches is called bud removal. When cultivating single-stem chrysanthemums, dahlias and other potted flowers with very large flowers, in order to cultivate only one large single flower in a pot and make the variety characteristics more prominent, the side buds between the leaf axils should be removed one by one in time, leaving only the top buds at the tip to grow, and finally the top buds differentiate into flower buds and bloom, to prevent the consumption of nutrients due to the formation of side branches. In addition to removing the side teeth, bud removal also includes removing the foot buds that grow in the pot soil.
(5) Bud stripping In order to ensure the quality of the flowers and increase the diameter of each flower head, the number of flowers must be reduced. Chrysanthemums, dahlias, peonies, and peonies can produce several buds on a branch. If they are allowed to bloom at the same time, the flowers will inevitably be thin. Therefore, after the flower buds appear, most of them only retain the main bud in the center and remove the surrounding secondary buds.
(6) Flower thinning For most fruit-bearing flowers, the number of flowers usually exceeds the number of fruits. If the flowers are not thinned and they are allowed to grow into young fruits, a large part of these young fruits will naturally fall off, consuming a lot of nutrients in vain. The remaining fruits cannot guarantee the quality. It is better to thin out the overcrowded flower spikes during the flowering period. However, it does not mean that the number of fruits left on each branch is equal to the number of flowers left, because the flowers left may not all be stable. Therefore, the number of flowers left should be equal to 2-3 times the expected number of fruits. After the fruits are basically stable (late June to early July), the excess young fruits can be thinned out.
How to prune and shape foliage plants?
Some large foliage plants, such as rubber trees, Guanyin bamboo, coconut palms, monstera, Schefflera, etc., have large bodies. If they are pruned frequently, they can promote plant growth and make them strong and beautiful. Cutting the top can make the plant leaves dense and symmetrical, and prevent leggy growth; cutting off the excess side buds can make the plant upright and tall.
Some smaller plants, such as Pilea, Peperomia, and Aloe, need to be pruned to appear beautiful and lush. Therefore, it is necessary to cut off the bad branches before the new buds begin to grow to maintain a beautiful shape.
In order to prevent foliage plants from growing arbitrarily, a certain height must be determined. Therefore, the top buds of the stems or branches should be cut off frequently to inhibit growth and make them dwarfed or clumped. This is different from the pruning principle of general outdoor plants.
Will long-term indoor flower cultivation affect health?
Some people worry that long-term indoor placement of plants will affect human health, but this is actually groundless worry. During the day, plants perform photosynthesis, releasing much more oxygen than they need for their own breathing. Although they stop photosynthesis at night, their breathing is also very weak. Especially for foliage plants, their breathing is weaker than that of flowering plants (flowering plants breathe the most during the bud and flowering stages), and they need less oxygen.
Someone once did such an experiment: through respiration, one molecule of oxygen can produce one molecule of carbon dioxide, and the amount of oxygen required to light two matches is equivalent to the amount of breathing of two or three pots of indoor plants overnight. It can be seen that the carbon dioxide exhaled by ornamental plants is negligible. From this point of view, indoor plants have no effect on human health. On the contrary, many indoor ornamental plants are beneficial to people. For example, begonia, asparagus, asparagus, etc., in addition to absorbing carbon dioxide gas, can also separate bactericidal substances, which have the effect of preventing colds, typhoid fever, laryngitis and other diseases. In addition, plants can reduce indoor dust, clean the air, increase negative oxygen ions, and make people live in a fresh and healthy environment.
Why are most modern indoor ornamental plants dominated by foliage plants?
People cannot live without nature. In today's world, in cities with tall buildings, people cannot have courtyards and green spaces. They can only use indoor plants to bring the freshness of nature into their homes. Among indoor plants, foliage plants have an absolute advantage. Placing a few pots of ornamental plants in the bedroom, study or reception room not only adds color to the family, but also makes you feel refreshed and relaxed when you glance at the verdant and colorful green "artworks" you have cultivated yourself after work or when you are "writing".
Foliage plants have leaves of various shapes and colors, and can be evergreen all year round. Therefore, they can be appreciated all year round without being restricted by seasons, especially the posture and color of their leaves. Secondly, foliage plants are more shade-tolerant and prefer warm and humid environments. In terms of light and nutrients, they have much lower requirements than flowering and fruiting plants.
Some flowering plants also have the characteristics of foliage plants, such as oleander, orchid, Clivia, flamingo, strelitzia, dwarf Kalanchoe, etc.
Foliage plants are ideal materials for indoor greening and decoration. At present, foliage plants are still in their infancy. Although they have occupied major hotels and restaurants, they have not yet been popularized in home rooms. I believe that in the near future, foliage plants will enter thousands of households.
What kinds of foliage plants are suitable for home cultivation?
Some plants are not outstanding in flowers, but in leaves. Their biggest feature is that they are not restricted by the blooming and falling of flowers, and can be appreciated at any time of the year. Among them, there are those that are shaped, such as Monstera, Golden Plate, Palm Bamboo, Asparagus Fern, Nephrolepis, etc. There are also those that are pleasing to the eye, such as redwood, red maple, red-backed laurel, purple spider grass, etc. There are also those that are luxuriant in both shape and color, such as coleus, purple velvet, and variegated dieffenbachia, etc. There are also Clivia, Pearl Orchid, Four Seasons Orchid, etc., which are both pleasing to the eye in terms of flowers and leaves. Placing a few pots in the home room will create a unique and novel beauty and fun. The following are some easy-to-cultivate species suitable for home use:
(1) Coleus, a perennial herb. The leaves are opposite and oval, with pointed tips and serrated edges. The leaves are yellow, green, red, purple, etc. The same leaf may also be mixed with several colors or have various color patterns. It is colorful and very gorgeous and charming. It is an excellent foliage flower.
It likes warm and humid semi-shaded environment. It is propagated by cuttings. In summer, it is placed under an outdoor shade shed or in a place not exposed to direct sunlight. In winter, it is placed in the study and living room. It is very elegant and generous.
(2) Cycas, commonly known as iron tree. The stem is thick and upright, without branches, and brown-black. The pinnate compound leaves are clustered at the top of the stem. They are elegant and graceful, firm and green, and look solemn and majestic.
It likes sunshine and warmth, is drought-resistant, and avoids waterlogging. Although it tolerates semi-shaded, if there is a lack of light during the germination period in summer and autumn, the newly grown leaves will be long and thin, and the ornamental value will be greatly reduced. Generally, topdressing is applied 2-4 times a year, and ferrous sulfate is often applied, so that the leaves are emerald green. Repot once every 2-3 years and bring it indoors for the winter. For those who grow it on the balcony at home, it is more beautiful to choose a small and curved one. In ancient times, it was said that a thousand-year-old cycad would bloom, but nowadays it is not uncommon to see cycads bloom after more than 20 years. Place a small pot of cycads on the coffee table next to the sofa to enjoy a miniature view of "southern scenery".
(3) Nephrolepis nephrolepis, also known as centipede grass, is a perennial evergreen herb in the fern family. It has tubers, clustered leaves, pinnate, and sessile pinnae. It likes shade and humidity, is cold-resistant, and likes slightly acidic loose soil. It can be propagated by division. In summer, place it in the shade of the balcony, water it frequently, sprinkle water on the leaves, and often spray water on the leaves to increase the air humidity of the balcony. In winter, bring it indoors for the winter, and control watering so that the soil in the pot does not dry out.
(4) Indian rubber tree, an evergreen tree. The leaves are 10-30 cm long, oval or oblong, thick and smooth leathery, dark green and shiny on the upper side, and light green on the lower side. It likes high temperature, high humidity and abundant sunshine. It is also shade-tolerant and is a foliage plant suitable for balcony cultivation.
It can be propagated by cuttings. In June, new shoots are taken as cuttings. The white latex flowing out of the cut is washed off with warm water. After drying, it is directly inserted into a pot and placed in a shaded place for more than a month to take root. Although it tolerates shade, it grows quickly in a sunny place and can grow to more than 1 meter in the same year of cutting. It is tolerant to rough conditions and easy to cultivate. It can safely overwinter if the room temperature is above 5℃ in winter. It needs to be repotted every 2-3 years.
(5) Aspidistra, also known as spider egg. The leaves grow from underground stems. The rhizomes are creeping and have scales. The stalks grow from the internodes of the stems. Each stalk has one leaf and grows in a cluster. The leaves are 40-65 cm long and 15 cm wide in the middle. They are green all year round and have a graceful posture. From flowering to fruiting, everything is completed in the soil. Its berries are spherical, like spider eggs, hence the name. There are two variants: Sprinkled Gold Aspidistra, with white-gold star spots on the leaves; White-striped Aspidistra, with yellow-white vertical stripes on the leaves. Both have high ornamental value, but poor cold resistance and rooting, and slightly sparse leaves. Aspidistra is suitable for indoor potted plants, placed in halls, study rooms, corridors, and windowsills, making the environment elegant and giving people a lively and beautiful enjoyment.
Aspidistra likes warm shade and humidity, avoids dryness and fears cold, and the pot soil should be sandy loam containing humus. In summer, it should be placed in a ventilated and cool place, keep the pot soil moist, and apply decomposed, thin cake fertilizer liquid once every half a month; in winter, bring it indoors for wintering, keep it above 0℃ to avoid frost damage. When repotting in spring, carry out division propagation, and each clump of tillers should leave 4-5 leaves. Leave too few leaves to avoid affecting the spread of rhizomes and leafing. The soil should not be too deep, pay attention to shade and watering, it is easy to survive, and no special management is required.
(6) The four-season lotus, also known as "small-season lotus" or "small-season lotus" is named because its leaves are similar to "small-season lotus" and its big red flowers are also similar to "lotus". Its flowering period is special, and it blooms from April to withering in May. When it is cultivated properly, it can still be bright again in autumn, and is the best among succulents.
(7) The leaves of the pearl orchid are like jasmine, with flexible branches and drooping. Put a pot on the wardrobe or bookcase, which is full of fun. It can also bloom like rice, which is pleasant tone. Pearl orchid is the strongest tolerant, and there is a saying that "the jasmine that cannot be dead, and the yin of the pearl orchid is endless."
(8) Monstera, a large leaf-viewing plant, is suitable for being arranged in a larger room. Monstera leaves have a strange shape like taro leaves, with oval holes in the middle, which is like the back shell of a turtle, symbolizing "longevity". : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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: : : : : It can take root and grow on a narrow ground of 0.2-0.5 square meters, which is very suitable for growing in flower boxes with few open spaces outside the home and small flower boxes on the balcony. It grows fast, and some varieties can grow 2-6 meters in a year, and its tender branches are 5-10 times that of trees and shrubs. It can achieve a good decorative effect within 2-3 years. It is a good type of quickly decorating the environment and balcony.
In the high temperature of summer, the family balcony makes people dry and hot; the west-facing windows and walls that are dry and dry greatly increase the room temperature, making it sultry and unbearable. For example, planting vines on the balcony and next to the windows to build shade sheds, or climbing climbing plants on the walls as shade curtains, will reduce the room temperature by several degrees. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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When purchasing at the market, choose plants with bright leaves, luster, and no yellow leaves and spots. Also look at the pores at the bottom of the pot, and choose those with no fibrous roots. In addition, it is better to have neat and beautiful plants, grow vigorously, and have no branches.
On the way home, you should use a plastic bag to cover the plants you just bought to prevent wind or damage. Due to bumpy roads, the shaking of the plant will cause the roots to loosen. After returning home, the plant should be placed in a wetland area without strong light and well-ventilated, keep the soil in the pot to moisten and make its roots grow. After a few days of raising the seedlings, the plant can adapt to the indoor growth environment.
How to choose a flower pot when it starts to grow?
Potted flowers and trees, the material and volume of the pots have a great impact on the growth of flowers and trees, so it is very important to choose a flower pot. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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: : : : : Basins with poor quality have an incorrect appearance, insufficient heat, uneven color, dull sound, and cannot withstand the erosion of water and fertilizer, and will soon crack. The pores of the pot convex inward and the bottom of the pot are uneven, which can easily cause water and be unfavorable for flower cultivation.
(2) The plastic pot is light, easy to use, not break, durable, and the inside and outside of the pot walls are smooth. It is not only easy to knock soil when changing the pot, but also easy to wash and disinfect. However, it is not breathable and water-seeking, and is only suitable for planting water-resistant flowers and trees, such as umbrella grass, Monstera, Calla lily, Guangdong Peruvian, or flowers and trees that prefer warmth, such as ferns, spider plants, purple duck plant grass, winter coral, night lilac, etc.
There is currently a plastic basin for washing rice and vegetables on the market, which is shaped like a washbasin, the bottom of the pot, and the surroundings are covered with fine pores, with various specifications of 20-35 cm diameter, and can also be used to plant flowers. Because the pot walls are porous, mud and water are easy to leak. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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The flower stand extends out of the three sides outside the balcony. Steel bars or wooden boards should be used to make a barrier about 15 cm high to prevent the flower pot from falling. Some flower stands on the balcony do not have this barrier. When drying clothes on the balcony or doing other housework, they may accidentally knock the flower pot off, and hurting things are also heard. This must attract the attention of flower growers on the balcony.
Any empty flower stand made of steel bars or wooden slats should be added to the flower stand, and then put into the flower stand. This will not only prevent the wind from pouring into the flower pot from under the flower stand, but also like a flower pot on the ground, it will be greatly damp, which is beneficial to the growth of the pot. More importantly, it is covered by plastic film and other objects, and watering and fertilizing will not leak directly to the lower balcony. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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Where is the best place for large leaf viewing plants indoors?
Those that grow more than 1.2 meters are generally called large leaf viewing plants, and they are mostly woody.
Common large leaf viewing plants include cycad, Araucaria, rubber tree, Monstera, Monstera, Nantian Bamboo, Flexible Wood, Star Anise Gold Pan, Oleander, Brown Bamboo, Red Banana, Dragon Blood Tree, Green Ivy making totem poles, ivy, etc. These plants have a chic shape, are full of courage, and have a large decoration range, which is suitable for placement in larger rooms. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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Small and medium-sized leaf-viewing plants are much richer in variety and color than large plants. They mainly include: various ferns, bean green, red mulberry, poinsettia, Clivia, four-season crabapple, colorful leaf clover, cold water flowers, flower-leaf green, flamingo, flower-leaf taro, dry umbrella grass, spider eggs, vera, swallow palm, purple goose, jade sedum, aloe, mermaid, asparagus, pineapple, arrowroot, tiger tail orchid, etc.
For these plants, they can be placed on windowsills, flower stands, coffee tables, writing tables, etc. According to their ecological conditions and the size and shape of the plants, they can be placed on windowsills, flower stands, coffee tables, and writing tables. Otherwise, they will give people a dazzling feeling. In the living room of young people, more colorful plants, such as colored mermaid, flower-leaf taro and purple goose velvet; in the living room of the elderly, more plants with fresh and elegant colors, such as Heguo taro, Xilin taro and Douban green. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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: : To grow flowers well, you must at least have the following three basic knowledge.
(1) To understand the functions of various organs of flowers and trees, flowers and trees generally have six types of organs, including roots, stems, leaves, flowers, fruits, and seeds. The roots can fix flowers and trees in the soil and absorb water and nutrients from the soil. Stems can support leaves, flowers, and fruits, and transport water, nutrients and organic nutrients made from leaves. Leaves can produce organic nutrients, and also perform respiration and transpiration. Although the functions of the three organs, roots, stems, and leaves, are related to the nutrition of flowers and trees, so they are all nutritional organs.
Flowers and trees bloom after they grow and mature, and the flowers fade and bear fruit, and the fruit contains seeds. The mature seeds fall in a suitable environment and grow new flowers and trees. Flowers, fruits, seeds, etc. are all related to reproductive offspring, so they are all reproductive organs.
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: However, artificial methods can be used to remedy the lack of light.
If the daylight time is too short, you can use fluorescent lamps or incandescent lamps to increase light for several hours every night, and the light they emit can also enable plants to photosynthesis. However, the intensity of light is limited, so, close fluorescent lamps or incandescent lamps to 30-40 cm from the plant. For example, African violets need sufficient sunlight. Every night, they can bloom and flourish under the table lamp indoors. But this is only about 5%-10% of the sunlight.
Some people also have a mirror next to the sun facing window to refract the light to the dark indoors, so that the plants placed in the dark can grow by refracting light. This can also enhance the light.
Why is watering the key to growing flowers?
A flower proverb says: "Whether you live is water, and whether you grow is fat." Watering is the key to the success or failure of growing flowers. Many beginners are confused about the question of how much watering is: "The book says it should not be too much, not too little, so why is it not too much?" In fact, the amount of watering depends on what kind of flowers are planted. Do this kind of flowers like dryness, or wetness, or semi-dry. Never treat it no matter what kind of flowers. If you plant 10 pots of flowers at home, you should water them together and dry them together. Water is the source of plant life, but an excessively humid soil environment will make the roots of some dry-like flowers unable to breathe, and then the roots rot and die, and the roots die, and the flowers will certainly not live. Therefore, if you want to grow flowers well, the first step is to understand the water requirements of each flower. First of all, feed them, and the next step is to talk about flowering.
How to water potted flowers?
Potted flowers are limited by specific environmental conditions. Watering operations are not only troublesome, but also the key to success or failure. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : If the rain suddenly comes after summer or is stuffy at night, water should be sprayed to cool down and prevent diseases; spray the leaves at any time to prevent the residual water points and dust on the leaves from condensed into stains, which is not easy to remove.
Watering potted flowers is a regular labor, and the above methods should be flexibly used, step by step, and persistent.
How to master the principles of watering potted flowers such as "dry thorough watering" and "dry wet"?
These watering principles are summarized based on the habit of watering flowers and trees. For example, wintersweet, plum blossom, hydrangea, dahlia, geranium, etc. that like dry and fear watering must be watered according to the principle of "dry thorough watering". Only when the surface of the pot soil is dry can it be watered. "Water thoroughly" means not to water "half watering", and watering the potted soil is soaked. If it is not watered thoroughly, the tip of the root cannot absorb water, which will affect growth. But watering thoroughly does not mean leaking, often leaking, and excessive fertilizer loss will also affect growth.
Flowers such as rhododendrons, camellia, roses, gardenia, Milan, Nantian Bamboo, Eight Immortals, and Viagra, should be watered according to the principle of "see dryness and wetness". Water them when they see the soil in the pot turn white, and water them until they are wet. Do not wait until the soil in the pot is dry, nor can they be watered heavily. The soil in the pot should be dry and wet, and it should not be dry for a long time, nor should it be wet, but should be wet. If
the soil in the pot likes large water, such as centipede grass, calla lily, Monstera, and Dry Umbrella grass, they should be watered according to the principle of "not wetness than dryness" and the soil in the pot should be kept wet and not dehydrated.
For flowers such as pineaceae and pulp and succulents, for flowers that like dryness and drought, they should be watered according to the principle of "not wetness than wetness", and they should be watered only after dryness, and they should never be watered.
What is the reason why watering the potted flowers is not easy to seep?
When watering potted flowers, water accumulates on the surface of the pot soil and does not seep easily for a long time. There are several reasons:
(1) The potted flowers have not been repotted for many years, and the roots are covered with flesh in the pot, making the water difficult to seep.
(2) The tiles on the bottom hole of the pot are improperly laid, blocking the holes, or the gravel layer at the bottom of the pot is too thin, or the gravel drainage layer is not laid, resulting in poor water seepage.
(3) The newly-topped pot soil is clay soil, which does not contain organic matter or fine sand, so it is difficult to seep water.
In the above situation, loam rich in organic matter should be selected. If the clay is formed, some fine sand should be added appropriately, repotted, and too many fibrous roots will be cut off over time. Otherwise, the leaves will fall off and accumulate water and rot and die.
How to prune flowers to urge flowers to sit and fruit?
Flowers that cultivate flowers that appreciate flowers or view fruits should have beautiful shapes, lush flowers and lush leaves, and fruits should be viewed in time. : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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In mid- and late May, place bamboo curtains on the windowsill to shade the sun, place the shade-loving rhododendrons, camellia, orchids, auspicious fragrance, hosta, and pearl orchids on the flower stand under the bamboo curtain, and often spray leaf water and sprinkle water around the window to increase air humidity. The slurry plants that like sun, as well as jasmine, Milan, crape myrtle, pomegranate, etc., are still planted on the balcony flower stand. Rose, gardenia, begonia, geranium, etc. should also be shaded at 12:00-14:00. Clivia, vermilion, water bamboo, spider plants, etc. are placed indoor ventilation to prevent direct sunlight. In the moldy and
rainy season in June, do not let the potted flowers get wet in the rain and lose weight. If water is watered in the pot, the flower pot should be lying down to facilitate drainage. Otherwise, the root system will be suffocated due to excessive water and the root system will rot and die. When the humidity is high and the temperature is high, pay attention to observation and strengthen the prevention and control of diseases and pests.
In addition to fertilization of jasmine, Milan, crape myrtle, begonia, etc. that can also bloom in hot seasons, other potted flowers should be stopped. In summer, the dormant or semi-dormant kyphosis, garlic, cyclamen, geranium, poinsettia, calla lily, and lotus should not be fertilized.
When watering, you should master the principle that the evaporation amount in the rainy season is low, and the potting soil should be dry. As the temperature rises, the watering volume should also be increased. Watering should be thorough in the morning and evening at high temperatures. Loosen the soil frequently so that the water can be easily watered, and the permeability of the potting soil will be good, which is conducive to the growth of the plant. While watering, do a good job of sprinkling the surrounding environment to reduce the temperature. In
addition to strengthening environmental ventilation, for potted flowers with lush branches and leaves, some too dense branches and leaves should be sprinkled off to make ventilation and light-transmissive growth, and it is also beneficial to the prevention and control of diseases and pests.
How to overwinter the leaves?
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: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :Therefore, the seedlings for flower bushes and flower beds should be cultivated in a separate flower garden, that is, they should be sown and transplanted. If conditions permit, they can be potted for maintenance, which is more reliable. When the flowering period is approaching and the buds are about to bloom, select seedlings with good growth and uniform height and pots to be transported to the flower bed, and planted with soil at one time according to the specified size. If it is planted in the ground, the seedlings should be transported to the flower bed with soil balls, so that the height of the trees can be better guaranteed and the flowers will bloom neatly. The planting distance of the flower bushes and flower beds is based on the standard that the branches and leaves of the seedlings are in contact and do not expose the soil surface. Generally, triangular planting is more appropriate. What is soilless cultivation and soilless seedling raising? Now, most of the potted flowers and trees are cultivated in soil. That is to say, the nutrients in the soil are absorbed by the roots, which promotes the growth, flowering and fruiting of flowers and trees. In foreign countries, some countries have adopted hemp silk, vermiculite, etc., and added liquid fertilizer as the medium for flower cultivation. Now some areas have also begun to use this soilless cultivation method. Soilless seedling cultivation refers to the use of river sand, rice husk ash, vermiculite and water as seedling medium instead of soil as a medium for seedling cultivation. This method is now widely used in various places. How to carry out soilless cultivation? Using other substances instead of soil as a culture medium for potted flower cultivation is called soilless cultivation. Although soil is not used, a variety of flowers and trees can be cultivated. It has the advantages of water and fertilizer retention, easy operation, and no disadvantages of mud and heavy soil, so it is currently used by people. There are many ways of soilless cultivation, but most of the formulas are complicated, and the raw materials are difficult to gather, which is not suitable for home flower cultivation. The following introduces two simple and easy soilless cultivation materials. Sawdust culture medium uses 70% sawdust and 30% poultry manure, or crushed cake fertilizer, mixed and piled evenly, and some human feces and urine are added. After full fermentation, it can be used to cultivate flowers and trees. If some coal briquette ash is added, the air permeability and water permeability will be better. Vermiculite culture medium Vermiculite is a light mineral used as a heat-insulating material in industry. Mix vermiculite and fermented horse manure in a ratio of 4:1, and use it as a culture medium to cultivate flowers and trees. Horse manure is acidic, so it is suitable for cultivating flowers and trees that prefer acidic soil in the south. Both culture media are very loose, breathable and water-permeable, will not become hardened, and have strong water and fertilizer retention capabilities, which is beneficial to the rooting and development of flowers and trees. When transplanting and potting, it is easy to operate without damaging the roots. Because of its light weight and the ease of obtaining raw materials, it is very suitable for home potted plants. What substrates are commonly used for soilless cultivation? The cultivation substrate mainly serves to fix the plant, retain water, store nutrients, and increase the air content. There are many substrates available for soilless cultivation of foliage plants. Common substrates include: perlite, vermiculite, ceramsite, sand, peat, sawdust, polystyrene foam, pumice, fiberglass, rock wool, cotton husk, bagasse, etc. The most commonly used is ceramsite, which has a certain specific gravity and has a good effect on fixing plants. Vermiculite belongs to the mica mineral class, has good water retention and buffering properties, and contains a small amount of minerals required by flowers. Rock wool is a new type of soilless substrate that has emerged abroad. It has the advantages of small specific gravity, clean and beautiful appearance, and is also commonly used in the design of roof gardens. The substrate can be used alone, mixed or layered. Ceramsite, rock wool and sand should be used alone, while perlite, vermiculite and peat can be mixed at a ratio of 1:1, and peat and sand should be mixed at a ratio of 3:1. When cultivating, the substrate should also be selected based on factors such as the size of the plant, the weight of the plant, water holding capacity and air capacity. After the substrate is selected, it is important to disinfect it. Families can use hot water, steaming, frying, or spraying several times with 0.2% potassium permanganate solution. Is there any way to grow flowers indoors without soil? Guangdong Evergreen can be grown indoors without soil. It is a perennial evergreen herb with nodes and no branches, so it is also called bamboo evergreen. The leaves are ovate or elliptical, 10-20 cm long, 4-8 cm wide, and emerald green. There are also variants with irregular golden spots on the leaves, which are all good varieties for indoor foliage viewing. Because Guangdong Evergreen likes warm and shaded environments, it can be grown indoors. It is extremely resistant to water and humidity, can be cultivated in water for a long time, and can grow and develop without soil. This method of cultivating flowers with water without soil is called hydroponics. Calla lily, Monstera, Colored Leaf Caladium, Water Bamboo and other moisture-loving flowers can be hydroponically cultivated, but Guangdong Evergreen is the easiest to hydroponically cultivate. The water contains trace elements such as calcium, sulfur, magnesium, iron, zinc, etc. As long as the water is changed frequently, it is enough for the growth of plants. However, the water lacks a large number of nutrients required by plants, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For this reason, when hydroponics is carried out, 1 gram of ammonium sulfate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be dissolved in 2-3 kg of water to make a nutrient solution. In the growing season, this nutrient solution can be used instead of water for soaking. If you want the plants to bloom, you can add 0.5 grams of boric acid to the prepared nutrient solution, which can promote flower bud differentiation and bud formation. Boric acid can also neutralize the slight alkali in the water and has an antiseptic effect. The nutrient solution is not used in winter and midsummer. In order to ensure the normal breathing of the root system, the water should be changed once every 2 days in summer, once every 3 days in spring and autumn, and once every 4-5 days in winter. When using nutrient solution, do not add nutrient solution due to evaporation, otherwise the solution will become more and more concentrated and the plant will be "burned to death". Only clean water can be added. The stems of Guangdong Evergreen are very easy to root. If you insert them into a bottle of clear water, you can not only enjoy the leaves for a long time, but also grow tender roots and become new plants. The juice of its stems and leaves is poisonous. When cutting and dividing the plants, be sure not to let the juice splash into your mouth or eyes. For potted plants, fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil can be used. As long as you avoid the sun and keep the pot soil moist, no special management is required. Can foliage plants grow in water? Some foliage plants can also grow completely submerged in water like aquatic plants. For example, Guangdong Evergreen, Syngonium, Spathiphyllum, Peperomia, and Brazilian wood can all grow well in water. Planting them in a transparent glass container has an unexpected ornamental effect. Many foliage plants originated from tropical rainforests with high temperature and high humidity. They like humid and hot environments and are not adapted to the dry conditions in home rooms. Therefore, some botanists also call these plants amphibious plants that grow on the ground in the dry season. Planting them in water is very natural and in line with the needs of such plants. When planting, choose a glass container that is higher than the plant, spread clean sand or stones, ceramsite, etc. on the bottom, and then plant the plant. Before planting, remove rotten roots and leaves and rinse with clean water several times. After planting, slowly pour clean water into the container, making sure to completely submerge the plant. After planting, change the water frequently until the plant grows new leaves, which indicates that the plant has fully adapted to life in the water. As for the issue of light, special attention should be paid. If the sun shines directly on the glass, algae will easily grow in the water, causing the water to be polluted. Therefore, it should be placed in a semi-shaded place during the day. To increase light, you can expose it to fluorescent light for 1-2 hours every night. How to use nutrient solution correctly? The container for filling nutrient solution should be made of ceramic, plastic or glass materials, not iron products, otherwise the nutrient solution will become ineffective. It is best to mix it as needed. The amount of solution should be determined according to the size of the plant and the volume of the flower pot. If the amount is too much, the plant cannot absorb it, and some even cause poisoning; if the amount is insufficient, it will not promote growth. The amount of fertilizer applied each time should be about 0.5% of the volume of the flower pot. Spring and summer are the peak growth periods of plants, and the amount of fertilizer required is relatively large. Generally, fertilizer is applied every half a month. In autumn, the amount of fertilizer should be gradually reduced, and it is sufficient to apply fertilizer once every 1-2 months. In winter, due to the low temperature, the plants enter a dormant period and stop growing, and no fertilizer is required. However, if the plants have already taken shape, even in the peak growth season, only a small amount of nutrient solution needs to be occasionally applied, once every 3-6 months. If fertilizer is applied too frequently, the plants will continue to grow, thus destroying their original shape. Since the substrate of soilless cultivation itself has no nutrients, it can only rely on nutrient solution to supply plant growth. Nutrient solution is both scientific and hygienic, and cannot be replaced by other fertilizers. How to harvest and store flower seeds? When harvesting grass flower seeds, the first thing to do is to grasp the maturity period and maturity of the seeds. When the seeds are mature, the petals are dry and the seeds are solid and shiny. At the same time, harvesting should be timely to avoid rotting or scattering in rainy weather. On the same plant, you should select seeds that bloom and mature early for seed preservation. If you find that the flowers or colors are mutated, you should collect and plant them separately. The method of collecting flower seeds varies with the types of grass flowers. Some can pick the whole flower, air-dry it and take the seeds, such as cockscomb and safflower; some can rub the fruit to remove the pulp, dry it in the sun and remove the seeds, such as golden eggplant and winter coral. Some seeds are easy to break and lose after maturity. When the fruit turns from green to yellow, you should touch the seeds and collect them in time, such as wind fairy flower and pansy. Common methods for collecting flower seeds include dry storage, sand storage, and water storage. Dry storage: Most flowers can dry their seeds in the shade, remove debris and put them in bottles or thick paper bags, such as safflower and cyclamen. Place them in a room with good air circulation, and the room temperature should not change much (5--10℃). Sand storage: Cover the harvested seeds with moist sand, and keep the soil temperature at 0--5℃. This type of seeds has a dormant period under natural conditions, and should be taken out one month before sowing, such as peony and peony. Water storage: Some seeds should be soaked in water after harvesting, such as water lilies, and the water temperature should be maintained at 5°C. All kinds of seeds should not be exposed to the sun, and should be stored in a dark place, paying attention to moisture and rodent damage. What are the common methods for sowing grass flowers? Sowing grass flowers is commonly used by broadcasting, row sowing and spot sowing. Broadcasting: Commonly used for smaller seeds, such as aster, Dutch chrysanthemum, snapdragon, etc. Before sowing, first finely press the soil, and after 1-2 hours of watering, evenly spread the seeds in the ridges or flower pots, and cover them with fine soil until the seeds are invisible. For ridge sowing, it is best to cover with film and reed curtains in spring, and only cover with reed curtains in autumn; before sowing, water thoroughly, and generally no watering is required before germination. If necessary, water can be sprayed with a fine-mouthed spray bottle. For sowing in pots, cover with glass and newspaper to keep moisture and heat; soak the pot with water when necessary, but do not water directly, otherwise the seeds will be washed out or accumulated aside, affecting the germination rate. After the young shoots emerge from the soil, gradually remove the covering.For particularly small seeds such as rock-tongue, thin-wrapped flower, four-season begonia, etc., the seeds should be mixed with 3-4 times the fine sand and sown in the flower pot without covering with soil. Row sowing: make shallow furrows in the ridge or pot soil, sow the seeds into the furrows and flatten them. Other management is the same as broadcast sowing. Row sowing is mostly used for taproot flowers that are not suitable for transplanting, such as poppies and morning glory. Spot sowing: large seeds can be sown one by one, such as Mirabilis jalapa and nasturtium, and the thickness of the soil covering is equivalent to about 3 times the diameter of the seeds. After the seeds germinate, they should be properly watered and squatted. If they are too dense, they should be thinned out in time to keep them ventilated and light-permeable. When 2-3 true leaves grow, they can be planted separately. Those that are resistant to transplanting can be transplanted 1-2 times, such as aster and impatiens, and then planted in flower pots or flower beds. Some herbaceous flowers are not suitable for transplanting, such as poppies and morning glory, so it is best not to transplant them. It is very important to correctly grasp the sowing period of various seed flowers. Calceolaria and Cineraria grow well in autumn; Zinnia has a long growth period and is suitable for spring sowing. How to sow for home flower cultivation? Asparagus, Clivia and one- and two-year-old grass flowers are propagated by sowing. Choose strong and fresh seeds from excellent mother plants. Some seeds have hard seed coats and need to be processed to facilitate germination. For example, the seed shell of lotus is hard, and the top must be worn and the seed coat can be exposed before sowing; for example, seeds of cyclamen, wintersweet, wisteria, etc., need to be soaked for 1-2 days before sowing to promote germination. To prevent the spread of diseases and pests, seeds should be disinfected by soaking in 0.1% mercuric chloride, 0.3% copper sulfate, and 1% formalin solution for 5 minutes, and then washed with clean water before sowing. Sowing time, spring sowing should not be earlier than the last frost period, mid-March is appropriate in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, and autumn sowing can be in September. The sowing amount of home flower cultivation is small, and sowing can be done in sowing pots. If you use a general clay pot, the diameter should not be less than 12cm. If it is too small, the soil in the pot will dry easily. The culture soil for sowing should be permeable and should be sterilized with steam in advance. Cover the drainage hole on the bottom of the pot with two arched pieces, then fill it with 2-3cm of crushed stone and gravel, and then put 5 cm of culture soil. The top layer is 1 cm of clean river sand as the sowing layer. After sowing, cover with fine sand, which is 2-3 times the diameter of the seed. Do not water directly, use the immersion method to water, so as not to wash away the seeds. Cover the pot with a piece of glass, and cover the glass with newspaper to block the light to maintain the temperature and humidity in the pot. Turn the glass over once a day to make it breathable and remove the water drops on the glass. The sowing pot should be placed in direct sunlight and maintained at a room temperature of 15-25℃ to facilitate germination. If the temperature is too high, the seedlings will grow too long, and if the temperature is too low, the seeds will rot easily. After the seedlings emerge, remove the glass and newspapers, and gradually move to a sunny place. Water according to the dryness and wetness of the pot soil. When the seedlings grow 2-4 true leaves, transplant them. What kind of reproduction work can be done in spring for flowers and trees? Between March and April, before the new buds of flowers and trees sprout, the sap does not flow, which is the appropriate season for reproduction, and the reproduction survival rate is high. For example, asparagus fern, bamboo palm, nandina domestica, jasmine, and orchids can be propagated by division when repotting in spring. Chlorophytum, lotus, bamboo, etc. can be propagated by cutting off the new buds on the creeping branches. Canna, dahlia, iris, etc. can be propagated by dividing the tubers and rhizomes with buds. Lily, gladiolus, daffodil, etc. can be propagated by taking the small balls produced by their bulbs and corms. Osmanthus, rose, lilac, etc. can be propagated by grafting their branches. Pomegranate, crape myrtle, honeysuckle, rose, etc. can be cut off their branches; chrysanthemum, four-season begonia, saxifrage, etc. can be cut off their leaves for cutting propagation. However, cuttings are easy to take root when the soil temperature is high at the end of April. Annual grass flowers such as ornamental peppers, red safflower, half-branch lotus, and aster can be propagated by sowing. Why do some flowers need asexual reproduction? Asexual reproduction is to use branches, buds, leaves, root suckers, tubers, bulbs, etc. on the mother plant to reproduce through cuttings, grafting, layering, and division to cultivate new plants. There are many flowers that cannot bear fruit because of ovary degradation, such as poinsettia and hibiscus. Some flowers native to tropical and subtropical regions are also difficult to bloom and bear fruit in the north, such as Monstera, Milan, jasmine, etc. These flowers need to be propagated asexually. There are many flowers that are excellent varieties selected through hybrid breeding. The excellent traits of these varieties can usually only be maintained by asexual reproduction. Using asexual reproduction methods can enhance stress resistance and improve ornamental value. For example, many varieties of cacti have relatively weak root systems. When grafted onto the three-edged arrow with relatively strong growth potential, their growth and reproduction are relatively rapid. Some flowers can bloom early by adopting asexual reproduction, such as peony, Clivia, osmanthus, etc. What are the benefits of vermiculite and perlite cuttings for flowers and trees? Vermiculite and perlite were originally a lightweight thermal insulation building material with the properties of drainage, heat preservation, moisture retention, many pores and good ventilation, which are exactly the conditions required for cuttings and seedlings to take root. Practice has proved that using these materials for cuttings of flowers and trees takes root quickly, is not easy to damage the roots when potted, and has a high survival rate. Using vermiculite and perlite for cuttings of flowers requires proper control of water, and avoids excessive dryness or wetness. Shading is required during cuttings in summer, and plastic film should be covered in the north. Although the cuttings of flowers and trees grow roots quickly using these materials, because vermiculite and perlite do not contain nutrients, the cuttings should be potted in time after they survive, otherwise the new roots will quickly "rust" (i.e. turn from white to yellow) and gradually die. Is there a simple and easy way to do a small amount of cuttings for home gardening? To ensure the survival of cuttings, it is necessary to keep the cutting medium and air moist, and water and spray frequently. For a small amount of cuttings at home, pots can be used, but watering and spraying will add a lot of trouble. Now I will introduce a method that is easy to do and does not require frequent watering and spraying. Use a large tile pot with a diameter of more than 20 cm, first pad it with 8 cm thick small stones, then fill it with a layer of coarse sand as a drainage layer, put a small tile pot with a diameter of about 9 cm in the center of the pot, and plug the drainage hole at the bottom of the small tile pot with a cork in advance. Fill the cutting medium such as fine sand, vermiculite or rice husk ash outside the small tile pot and inside the large tile pot, and carry out cuttings in the medium. Then fill the small tile pot with water, and put a plastic film bag on the large tile pot. You can cut a few small holes on the two corners of the bag for ventilation. Because the water in the small tile pot constantly penetrates through the pot wall to the surrounding matrix, it can keep the cutting matrix moist for a long time. And because the plastic film bag is put on the mouth of the large tile pot, it often maintains sufficient air humidity. This saves the trouble of opening the bag, watering, and bagging to keep moisture every day, and also creates an environmental condition for the cuttings to take root easily. Which foliage plants can be propagated by leaf cuttings? Leaf cutting is a unique propagation method. Not every type of plant can be propagated by leaves. Foliage plants that can be propagated by leaf cutting include: Cyperus, Saxifrage, Tricolor Saxifrage, Purple Blue Gloxinia, Peperomia (Watermelon Peel, Peperomia, Tricolor Peperomia, Bright Leaf Peperomia, etc.), Begonia (Iron Cross Begonia, Toad Leaf Begonia, etc.), African Violet, Aloe, Succulent Plants, Golden Edged Tiger Tail Orchid, etc. The specific method of cutting is: find a thriving leaf, leave a two-centimeter petiole when cutting, and then cut off 1/3 of the leaf. Insert obliquely, bury all the petioles in the cutting medium, make the leaves as close to the soil surface as possible to avoid lodging when watering, and finally spray with clean water. The medium can be plain sand, vermiculite, perlite, etc. It should be placed in a cool place for 1-2 weeks, and then moved to a brighter place after the roots come out. In 2-3 weeks at the earliest and 6 weeks at the latest, small buds and fibrous roots will emerge from the petiole. Leaf cuttings are usually carried out in spring. The cutting medium cannot be too wet, otherwise the leaves will rot and it will be difficult to survive. What is layering propagation? Press the branches at the bottom of the mother plant down and bury them in the soil to promote the germination of adventitious buds at the nodes or internodes and grow new roots. Then cut them off from the mother plant and plant them separately to form a new plant. This method of propagation is called layering propagation. Layering propagation is mostly used for flowering shrubs with strong clumping ability or vines with soft branches. For some tree and shrub species that are difficult to root, high-branch layering can also be used to allow the branches on the crown to root before they are separated from the mother plant, providing more reproduction opportunities for flowers and trees. The advantages of layering propagation are easy survival, fast seedling formation, simple operation method, and the branches that are pressed down and alive can be pressed again next year without wasting propagation materials. The disadvantage is that the body of the seedlings cannot be completely renewed, the growth is not vigorous, and the seedling production is small. It is not suitable for mass production of seedlings. What is the high-branch layering method? Some woody foliage plants are not easy to root by cutting stem segments. At this time, high-branch layering can be used for reproduction. First, the branches are ring-peeled, then wrapped with moist sphagnum moss or cotton, and then tied with plastic film or string. If the branches are soft, you can use bamboo sticks to support them on the layering to prevent lodging and breaking. About one month after layering, when the ring-peeled part grows roots, it can be cut off and planted separately. It is most appropriate to carry out layering propagation between April and August each year. However, do not choose old branches for the high-pressure branching part, it is best to use one-year-old tender branches. Many tropical flowers and trees such as rubber trees, monster bamboo, millennium trees, and miniature coconuts can be propagated by layering. How are flower diseases caused? The causes of flower diseases: First, poor cultivation environment conditions, such as excessive or insufficient water, too strong or too weak light, too high or too low temperature, insufficient or unbalanced nutrition, and diseases caused by smoke, dust, and harmful gas pollution, which are also called physiological diseases. This type of disease affects the growth and development of flowers, but is not contagious. Second, bacterial infection, such as fungi, bacteria, viruses, etc., invading plant bodies, among which fungal infection is the most common. This type of disease can spread rapidly under suitable environmental conditions. For diseases caused by poor environmental conditions, as long as the cultivation management is improved in time to adapt to the requirements of flower growth and development, they will generally rejuvenate naturally. Diseases caused by bacterial infection must be prevented and controlled in time. However, these two types of diseases are closely related and cause and effect to each other. When flowers grow weak, they are often prone to diseases; sometimes flowers are infested by insects, which can also lead to the occurrence of diseases. What are the symptoms of flower physiological diseases? Diseases caused by the inability of flowers to adapt to environmental conditions during their growth and development are called physiological diseases. Diseases caused by insufficient nutrients are mainly dwarfing and chlorosis. Lack of nitrogen in plants cannot guarantee their high growth; excessive alkalinity (in the north) or acidity (in the south) in the soil will cause the plants to become weak and the leaves to wither; lack of phosphorus, potassium and other trace elements will also cause flowers to lose their green color and wither. Lack of water during the growth and development of flowers will cause them to wither and grow short; too much water will hinder the breathing of the roots and cause them to rot, and the plants will also turn yellow. Therefore, when the leaves turn yellow and wilt, you should carefully diagnose them before taking measures.
Too high or too low soil and air temperatures can also cause physiological diseases. When the soil temperature is too high, the affected parts will soften, dry up, and shrink, especially flowers with shallow roots and thin epidermis are susceptible. Sunburn caused by excessive light forms water-soaked lesions on the sunny side of the stem base, which slowly crack.
Diseases caused by low temperatures, such as frost damage and freezing damage. The leaves, flowers, and fruits of the affected flowers turn yellow, dry up, fall off, or the leaves and young stems curl up. This type of disease is prone to occur in early spring when there is a large temperature difference between day and night; and flowers native to frost-free areas, such as white orchids and jasmine, will die after being hit by frost.
Factories, cars, etc. emit toxic exhaust gases, some of which can cause leaves to discolor and fall off.