Flower propagation and pruning techniques


                             Flower propagation and pruning techniques
       Table of contents
§ Herbaceous flower grafting techniques
§ Common flower propagation methods
§ Flower division propagation method
§ Flower soilless cultivation method
§ Flower seed storage
§ Flower seed storage §
Flower and tree pruning techniques
§ Teach you how to prune potted flowers
§ How to prune indoor foliage flowers and trees for good results
§ Flower transplantation

                        [Herbal Flower Grafting Techniques]
 
        To accelerate the reproduction of rare species or for artistic modeling, herbal flowers can also be grafted. However, because herbal plant cells are tender, contain a lot of water, and are sensitive to the environment, in order to increase the survival rate, it is necessary to master the following operating techniques:
    Grafting period: For herbaceous flower grafting, it is advisable to choose the spring when the plants are growing vigorously and warm, and to do it on a cloudy and windless day. Too low or too high temperature will affect survival. A suitable grafting period can reduce transpiration water loss of the scion, maintain the water balance between the rootstock and the scion, and promote the formation of callus tissue.
  Selection of stock and scion: The stock and scion should be of the same family and have strong affinity, which is the key to improving the survival rate. It is best to choose tender branches, and the stock and scion should be basically the same in age, which is beneficial to the formation of callus and improve the survival rate.
  Grafting method: Cut the scion. Choose healthy and healthy young branches without diseases and insects, 3 to 4 cm long, cut the two sides of the base into wedges, and the cut surface is 1.5 cm long. Put it in clean water or hold it in your mouth. Cut the rootstock. Cut the top of the rootstock stem at the appropriate position, and make a longitudinal cut on the cross section, the depth of which is slightly longer than the cut surface of the scion. Embed the scion. Quickly insert the cut scion into the cut of the rootstock so that the rootstock and scion fit closely. Bind. After the scion is embedded, wrap the grafting port tightly with a film, and seal the top of the scion to prevent water evaporation. Bagging. To reduce the evaporation of water in the scion, after the grafting is completed, cover the grafted part with a plastic bag or cover the whole plant to prevent wind withering. For herbaceous flower grafting, the technique must be skilled and the operation must be fast.
  Management after grafting The key to management after grafting is to shade and keep moisture to prevent wilting. Build a shed to block light, prevent exposure to the sun and wind, and spray water to keep the air moist. If there is no wilting phenomenon 7 to 8 days after grafting, it means that the grafting is basically alive. After 15 to 20 days, the grafting will be firmly healed and the film and bag can be removed. After about 50 days, the shade shed will be gradually removed.
 
                           [Commonly used methods of flower propagation] 
 
Division method:
Division propagation is mostly used for the propagation of perennial herbaceous plants. Sometimes, in order to renew old plants, division method is often used to promote the growth of new plants.
Propagation by division can be roughly divided into the following categories:
① Propagation by tuberous division: For example, the roots of dahlia are enlarged and lumpy, and buds sprout in many places on the rhizome. The tuberous roots can be cut (must have buds attached) and planted in another place to reproduce into a new plant.
② Bulb division propagation: The stem shortens and thickens, becoming flat or spherical, such as gladiolus, tulips, freesia, tuberose, etc. The naturally divided bulbs on the bulbs are divided
 and planted to cultivate new plants. Generally, very small bulblets cannot bloom in the first year, but only bloom in the second year. The mother bulb can be eliminated year by year due to the decline of growth.
 The bulb division propagation season is determined according to the time of digging and planting. After digging the bulbs, separate the bulbs that are too small and place them in a ventilated place to allow them to pass through dormancy before planting.
③ Propagation by division of rhizomes: For the large underground rhizomes lying horizontally in the ground, such as canna and bamboo, use a sharp knife to cut the part of the rhizome with 3-4 buds on each long stem and plant them
 separately.
④ Propagation of perennial plants by division: After three or four years of planting, or two or three years of potting, the perennial plants can be divided and propagated in spring and autumn because the plants are too large. Dig out or combine with
 repotting, the roots will naturally separate in many places, generally into 2-3 clusters, each with 2-3 main branches, and then planted separately. Such as daylilies, irises, spring orchids and other flowers.
⑤ Reproduction of clump-type and sucker-type shrubs by division: Dig up clump-type shrubs and flowers in early spring or late autumn, and generally plant them in 2-3 plants, such as wintersweet, Nandina domestica, and lilac
 . Another type is flowers and trees that are easy to produce root suckers. The suckers produced from the roots of the mother plant are divided and planted separately with roots, such as asparagus fern, winter jasmine, peony, etc.
Cutting method:
① Leaf cutting: using plant leaves as cuttings, generally used for plants with strong regeneration ability. It can be divided into full leaf cutting and partial leaf cutting. When using leaves with petioles for cuttings, it is very easy
 to root. The rooting parts of leaf cuttings are leaf margins, veins, and petioles. African violet leaves can grow roots at the petiole when inserted in soil or soaked in water.
 Tiger orchids are cut into several sections for cuttings. The leaves of tiger orchids are relatively long and can be cut into 7-8 cm long. They are inserted obliquely into the pot and roots and sprouts can be grown from the lower part of the leaves.
② Leaf bud cutting: A leaf bud and a little stem are attached to the cutting, which is between leaf cutting and branch cutting. The stem can be cut near the bud, and left a little longer below the bud, so that the growth
 is strong and the roots are strong. Generally, the cuttings should be 3 cm long. Rubber trees, Dieffenbachia, hydrangeas, and camellias can all be propagated by this method.
③ Branch cuttings: Due to the differences in materials and time, it is divided into hard branch cuttings and tender branch cuttings. Hard branch cuttings: After the leaves fall or before the next spring buds, choose
 the middle part of a one- or two-year-old branch that is mature, strong, and free of diseases and insects, cut it into cuttings of about 10 cm long and 3-4 nodes. The cut should be close to the internode, and the upper end should be cut into an oblique mouth to facilitate drainage, and then insert it into the soil.
 Soft branch cuttings: That is, the tender branches of the current year are cut. Cut the branches 7-8 cm long, cut off the lower leaves, leave a few leaves on the upper part, and then cut them. Such as chrysanthemum, poinsettia, geranium,
 crabapple, etc. Semi-hard branch cuttings: It is mainly cuttings during the growth period of evergreen flowers and trees. Take a semi-mature branch of the current year about 8 cm, remove the lower leaves and leave two upper leaves, and insert
 1/2-2/3 into the soil, such as osmanthus, rose, etc.
④ Root cutting: Use roots as cuttings to propagate new seedlings. It is only suitable for species that can produce new shoots at the roots. Generally, when using root cuttings, the larger the root, the stronger the regeneration ability. The root can be cut into 5-10
 cm long and inserted obliquely or horizontally to produce adventitious buds and fibrous roots. For example, the peony should be close to the root head, which has strong germination power; the roots of the hanging pot grass are small and can be cut into
 small sections of about 2 cm, sprinkled on the surface of the pot and then covered with soil. In addition, wintersweet, peony, gerbera, snow willow, persimmon, walnut, and round-leafed crabapple can all be rooted. Management after cutting:
 The management after cutting is mainly to avoid strong light too early, shade and water, and keep it moist. The management of root cuttings and hard branch cuttings is relatively simple, just don't let them freeze. Soft branches and semi-hard branches
 should be carefully managed to keep the pot soil moist to prevent water loss from affecting survival. After rooting, gradually reduce irrigation and increase light. Apply liquid fertilizer once after new buds grow out. The plant
 can be transplanted after it grows up. In addition, during the entire management process, attention should be paid to pest and disease control and weeding and loosening the soil.
Layering: Layering is a method of propagating by burying the branches of a plant in the soil without separating them from the mother plant. It is mostly used for flowers that are difficult to root by cuttings, such as wintersweet, osmanthus, osmanthus fragrans, Milan, etc.
① Single branch layering: Take branches close to the ground as layering materials, bury the branches 15 cm deep in the soil, cut the buried branches, or peel them in a wheel shape, and
 expose the top of the branches to the ground. Fix them with bamboo hooks, cover them with soil and press them tightly. Forsythia, Podocarpus, Deutzia, and Winter jasmine are often propagated by this method. This method can also be used to layer several branches around a mother plant
 to increase the number of propagated plants.
② Soil layering: This method is mostly used for clumping flowers and trees. In the first year, the aboveground part can be cut short to promote the germination of side branches. In the second year, the base of each side branch is cut and soil is piled up. After rooting,
 they are transplanted separately. All clumping flowers and trees, such as Spiraea, Winter Jasmine, and Golden Bell, can be propagated by this method.
③Wave layering: bend the branches to the ground, cut them several times, bury the cuts in the soil, and after they take root, cut and transplant them to form new individuals. This method is used for
 species with long and easy-to-bend branches.
④ High-altitude layering: This method is usually used for species with upright plant shape, hard branches that are not easy to bend, and not easy to produce root suckers. Select mature and strong branches of the current year, perform ring peeling
 or incision, cover the ring peeling area with plastic film, tie it tightly with ropes, fill it with moss and soil with appropriate humidity, and cut it off after new roots grow, remove the film, and plant it into a new individual.
 The layering does not separate from the mother body and relies on the mother body for nutrition. Pay attention to burying the soil and compacting it. The time to cut off the mother body varies depending on the variety. Roses can be cut off in the same year, and osmanthus can be cut off in the next year. Try to bring soil with you when planting to protect the new roots and facilitate survival.
Grafting:
Grafting is a method of using part of a plant to graft onto other plants to reproduce new plants. The branch used for grafting is called the scion, the bud used is called the grafted bud, the grafted plant is called the rootstock, and the grafted seedling is the grafted seedling. Healing tissue occurs between the scion and the rootstock. When the scion sprouts new branches and leaves, it means that the grafting is alive. Cut off the sprouting branches of the rootstock to form a new individual. Dormant grafting is generally done in early to mid-March, and some species that sprout earlier are in mid-to-late February. Autumn grafting is from early October to early December. Grafting during the growing season is mainly budding, and July to August is the most suitable period. Peach blossoms and roses are mostly grafted during this period. The rootstock should be selected from the same species or genus that is closely related to the scion, and has strong adaptability and strong growth; the scion should be selected from the middle branches with full growth. The main principle of grafting is that the incision must be straight and smooth, not rough or concave. The material for grafting and binding is now mostly plastic film cut into long strips.
The main operation methods are as follows:
① Cut grafting: cut off the upper part of the selected rootstock, cut about 2 cm longitudinally on one side, leaving a little wood, exposing the cambium, cut one end of the scion branch obliquely into 2 cm long, insert it into
 the rootstock, align it with the cambium, and tie it tightly.
② Grafting: Place the scion and the rootstock in one place, cut off 3-5 cm of the close parts of two branches of equal thickness, deep into the wood, and then place them together,
 aligning them with the cambium, so that the cut surfaces are closely connected and tied tightly.
③ Bud grafting: T-shaped bud grafting is often used, that is, the leaves of the full side buds in the middle of the branch are cut off, leaving the petioles, and the branch cortex
 is cut into buds about 2 cm long with a little wood. Then the rootstock bark is cut into a T-shape, and the cortex of the thin slice is picked open with a budding knife, the bud is inserted, and it is tied tightly with plastic film to expose the buds and petioles. 
 
                          [Division propagation of flowers]
 
    Separating small plants from the mother plant or separating bulbs and corms from the mother plant and planting them into independent new plants is called cutting propagation. This method is divided into two categories: division and division.
  1. Branching method. The root suckers, stem suckers and rhizomes produced on the mother plant are divided and cultivated into independent new branches. The period of division propagation depends on the type of flowers. Generally, spring flowering plants are divided in the renovation season; autumn flowering plants are divided in spring. Autumn divisions need to be performed when the aboveground part enters dormancy and the underground part is still active, such as peonies and peonies; spring divisions should be performed before germination, such as hostas and irises. When dividing plants, for perennial flowers, first remove the soil attached to the roots, then use or sharp knives to press the natural gaps according to the force, and separate them so that the first small plant after cutting has at least 2-3 buds. When dividing flowers and trees, there is no need to knock off the mother plant. You can use a flower shovel to dig up the soil, dig out the young plants from the root side and plant them. When dividing the plants, avoid damaging the root system to facilitate survival.
  2. Bulb division. This method is mainly used for the propagation of bulbous and bulbous flowers. Bulb division is done after dormancy. The bulbs and corms are separated and dug out from the mother bulb and cultivated into independent new plants. For example, the small bulbs of hyacinth usually occur at the base for 4 weeks. After being separated from the mother bulb, they can reach the same size as the mother plant after 4 years of cultivation. Narcissus bulbs can grow into large bulbs after 3 years. Tulip large bulbs form 2-3 small bulbs after 1 year, and small bulbs can grow into large bulbs after 1-2 years of growth. Gladiolus bulbs can form 1-4 large bulbs after 1 year of growth and can produce many small bulbs.
 
 
                             [Flower soilless cultivation method] 
 
(1) Hydroponics: The cultivation medium is water. No nutrient solution is needed during the growth process. This is mostly some plants with swollen bulbs and some aquatic plants.
Several common hydroponic plants are as follows:
Narcissus: A plant of the Amaryllidaceae family, it has a large bulb, sufficient nutrients, and a cluster of white fleshy roots at the base. It is placed in a container in autumn and winter, and the roots are protected with beautiful pebbles or colored stones, or the roots are allowed to grow as much as possible. Generally, it will bloom after 45-60 days of indoor cultivation. In winter, a pot is placed indoors, which is clean and elegant, and full of fragrance. It is used as a traditional New Year flower. Narcissus can grow well without adding any nutrients. Generally, to prevent it from growing too long, it is exposed to sunlight during the day, and the water in the container is poured out at night. The roots are protected with wet gauze, which can control the growth and make it strong and beautiful.
Hyacinthus: A plant of the lily family, it is also a bulbous flower. The hydroponic method is also relatively simple. Choose a container with a bottle mouth that can hold the bulb. It is best to use a gourd-shaped container with a small top and a large bottom. The texture is better with transparent glass. The water temperature should not be too high, and it is better to be below 15℃. Put the bulb on the bottleneck. After the roots grow, the water level can be lowered to the point where the roots can just touch the water surface. This will allow the roots to fully absorb oxygen and promote the growth of the roots. When the roots develop, cover the culture container with black cloth to allow the bulbs to develop further. In winter, move the container to a sunny place to promote large and strong flowers. The hyacinth inflorescence is plump, with various colors and white roots. You can also plant several hyacinths in a fish tank, using sand as the substrate and supplemented with shade-growing ferns to form a small scene with wild interest, which is also very unique. The container for water-grown plants should be beautiful and unique. Sometimes some daily utensils such as high-footed wine glasses and wine bottles can be used, and you can also use large-mouthed containers. Put a pot of water-grown plants on the table or desk.
The clear water and bright flowers will refresh your eyes and make you feel refreshed.
(2) Sand culture method: Sand culture method is also a cost-saving and labor-saving measure for growing flowers. The substrate is clean river sand with good drainage performance. The small holes at the bottom of the pot must be filled with tiles to prevent river sand from flowing down. The river sand needs to be kept moist at all times and irrigated with clean water once a week. The culture liquid fertilizer is Huabao, which should be applied at least once a day in summer and once every other day in winter. There are many kinds of flowers suitable for sand culture, such as geranium, violet, ivy, amaryllis, cyclamen, cactus, daffodil, etc. Cacti are succulent plants with a large amount of water in their bodies. There are many types and shapes. They are drought-resistant and easy to cultivate and manage. The cultivation substrate can be pure sand or pure sand with a small amount of leaf mold. Although cacti are drought-resistant, it does not mean that they can be left without water. If they are not watered for a long time, the plant body will easily shrink and sag. Cacti grown in sand grow well and are clean and beautiful. 
 
                          【Flower seed storage】 
    Dry - Keeping the seeds dry is the main condition to prevent them from deteriorating. The moisture content should be kept at 12% to stabilize the life activities of the seeds. If it is found to be more than 1%, they should be turned over and exposed to the sun immediately to prevent heating, mildew and freezing. 
    Cold - The temperature rise will increase the respiration of the seeds, which will directly affect the quality and germination rate of the seeds. It is best to store them at 2-3℃ to reduce the respiration of the seeds, thereby maintaining the vitality of the seeds. 
    Clean - The ceiling and floor of the seed storage room should be cleaned, cracks and rat holes should be blocked with lime, and the walls should be brushed with lime water, and then disinfected with an appropriate amount of chemical agents. According to actual experience, the general seeds collected and stored by family flower cultivation can be hung in a ventilated and dry place in a cloth bag after drying, which is a more appropriate method. 
    Of course, some seeds are suitable for wet storage, such as nandina, papaya, peach blossom, plum blossom, rose, etc.; while the seeds of water lily and Victoria regia need to be placed in a bottle filled with water; seeds of peony, rose, osmanthus, etc. must be stored in sand; there are also those that need to be frozen, such as iris, delphinium, and stachys; seeds of peony and white jasmine should be planted as soon as they are harvested; and some drupes and seeds with harder seed coats are stored in pits (a layer of horse manure, a layer of soil and a layer of seeds) and sealed for preservation.
  
                          [Storage of flower seeds]
 
     Except for a few that can be sown immediately after being collected, most flower seeds mature in autumn or spring and summer. After being collected, they must be stored and sown in the following spring or autumn. Here are some methods for storing flower seeds for reference.
       Quicklime storage method: Choose a dry, closed ceramic container (such as a jar), place it in a dry and cool place indoors, wrap the flower seeds with thin kraft paper, tie them tightly, and arrange them in layers around the jar. Then put an appropriate amount of calcium chloride into a gauze bag and put it in the middle of the seeds. Calcium chloride should not come into direct contact with the seeds. After filling, seal the jar mouth. It is best to replace the lime bag every 1 to 2 months, so that the vitality of the seeds can be maintained for a long time.
       Charcoal storage method: Take 1 kg of charcoal and put it into a small cloth bag, put it into the bottom of a sterilized glass bottle, and then arrange the packed flower seeds in layers on it until it is full and then seal the bottle mouth. The cloth bag containing charcoal should generally be replaced once a month.
       Thermos bottle storage method: Put the flower seeds into a newly bought thermos bottle, then seal it with white wax and wrap it with tape. This method is suitable for home flower seed storage.
       Refrigerated storage method: Put the flower seeds with a water content of less than 9% into a container, seal the container mouth with tape, wrap it with plastic film, put it in the refrigerator, keep the temperature at about 5°C, and keep it in the refrigerator for a long time. The effect is good. This method is suitable for the storage of precious flower seeds.
 
 
                         [Flower and Tree Pruning Technology]
1. Shortening: Cutting off 1/3-3/4 of the tip of the branch is called shortening. The purpose is to stop the endless extension of the branch. At the same time, it promotes the germination of the axillary buds under the cut, so that more side branches grow, increase the flowering area, and make the plant fuller and rounder. In order to extend the outer periphery of the crown and make the branches at all levels clearly layered, the cut should be located above an axillary bud growing outward.
2. Thinning: When the branches inside the plant are too dense, they should be partially thinned out from the base. The objects of thinning are cross branches, inward branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, long branches and aging branches. Thinning can prevent the tree shape from being disordered, make them have clear layers, and facilitate ventilation, light transmission and flowering. When thinning, it should be close to the base, and no stumps should be left.
3. Pinching: It is to cut off the top buds of the branches, remove the apical dominance, promote the growth of axillary buds, form a multi-branched and plump plant, and make the plant bloom more. For example, Begonia, Salvia, Lotus, etc. all need to be pinched.
4. Remove buds: Remove the axillary buds and tender branches of flowers to save nutrients and make the main trunk strong.
5. Leaf removal: It is to make the plant beautiful. It mainly removes yellow leaves, leaves with diseases and insect pests, and leaves that cover flowers and fruits.
6. Thinning flowers and fruits: For most fruit-bearing flowers, the number of flowers that bloom exceeds the number of fruits that bear fruit. If you do not thin the flowers, and let them all grow into young fruits, half of these young fruits will fall off naturally, wasting a lot of nutrients in vain, and the remaining fruits cannot guarantee the quality. Therefore, the overcrowded flowers should be thinned out during the flowering period, but the number of fruits left on each branch is not equal to the number of flowers left, because the flowers left may not all be able to stay firmly, so the number of flowers left should be 2-3 times the expected number of fruits. After the fruits are firmly set, the excess young fruits can be thinned out. 

                        [Teach you how to prune potted flowers]
    Pinching: also known as de-tipping or topping, is the process of pinching or cutting off the top of the main stem or side branches of flower plants by hand to break the apical dominance of the plant, promote the germination of the axillary buds below, inhibit the excessive growth of branches, promote more branching of the plant, and form multiple flower heads and a beautiful plant shape.
    Pruning: Large flowers such as rubber trees, kiwifruit, Schefflera arborvitae, and royal daisy are too tall to be grown indoors and need to be pruned or pruned. Usually, the upper part of the plant is cut off before new branches sprout in spring, which is called pruning. The height of the main trunk left when pruning depends on the type of flower.
    Thinning: includes thinning branches, leaves, buds, flowers and adventitious buds. When flower plants grow too vigorously and the branches and leaves are too dense, some branches should be thinned out in time, or the dense leaves should be removed to improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, so that the flowers grow stronger and the colors of flowers and fruits are more colorful. Potted flowers should also be thinned out frequently to remove the yellow branches, leaves and leaves damaged by pests and diseases to make the plant shape appear neat and beautiful. The varieties of foliage flowers with stripes and mosaics are formed by the buds of green plants. The growth of green branches is more vigorous than that of branches with stripes and mosaics. They should be pruned in time to prevent the green branches and leaves from covering the branches with stripes and mosaics, so as to maintain the characteristics of the original variety. It should be noted that coniferous trees such as five-needle pine should not have their leaves removed.
    Potted flowers such as camellia often form too many flower buds. To make these potted flowers bloom well, the flower buds can be thinned out appropriately. Flower bud thinning should be done as early as possible to avoid wasting nutrients. Generally, it should be done when the flower buds and leaf buds can just be distinguished. Leave 1 to 2 flowers on each branch and break off all the extra flower buds. For potted flowers that are not prepared for seed harvesting, the remaining flowers should be cut off in time after opening to avoid wasting nutrients.
 
                        [How to prune indoor foliage flowers and trees for good results]  
 
        According to the practices of flower growers and flower lovers from all over the country, the following four methods are used to prune indoor foliage flowers and trees, which have achieved good results. They are briefly described as follows:
  The first is pinching. Most seedlings propagated by cuttings or sowing adopt the method of pinching, which can promote more branches, more flower heads, and more flowering, forming a beautiful plant shape. This method is widely used in the adjustment of indoor foliage flowers. Pinching is also called topping or topping, which is to remove the small growth point at the top of the plant; destroy the apical dominance of the branch or plant, and promote the two or more hidden buds (or potential buds) at the bottom to sprout into new branches; in order to achieve better results, sometimes 2 to 3 consecutive pinching can be performed, so that one top can sprout 6 to 8 branches. Pinching is usually used for herbaceous or small shrub-like ornamental plants; in addition, pinching can inhibit the excessive growth of the plant, promote the growth of branches to be full, and the flowers and fruits to be larger, and the ornamental effect is better.
  The second is thinning. For plants that grow too vigorously, the branches within the plants should be thinned out in time or the dense leaves should be removed to improve their ventilation and light transmission conditions, so that they can grow strong and the colors of flowers and fruits are more colorful; some potted flowers often form too many buds; for example, in order for camellia to bloom well, make the flowers bloom beautifully and fragrant, the buds must be properly peeled, leaving 1 to 2 flowers on each twig, and all the extra buds should be broken off by hand; flower thinning should be done as early as possible to avoid consuming too much nutrients, and it should generally be done after the flower buds and leaf buds can be distinguished; otherwise, plants with relatively weak growth will form many buds. If all of them are allowed to bloom, the plant will consume too much nutrients, which will seriously affect its future growth; in addition, for foliage plants planted indoors, the withered and yellowed leaves and branches on the plants should also be removed and cut off in time to keep them clean and reduce the damage of diseases and insects.
  The third is to trim the top. After being planted for several years, many foliage plants are too tall; some are difficult to cultivate indoors, or the lower leaves fall off, the plant shape is poor, and they lose their ornamental value. At this time, they need to be completely renewed, re-pruned or trimmed. For example, large tree-like plants such as rubber trees, large shrub-like millennium trees, Schefflera arborvitae, and large herbaceous plants such as the giant royal powder leaf all need to be heavily pruned when they grow to a certain extent; the usual practice is to trim the top before the new shoots sprout in spring, and cut off all the upper parts of the plants; the height of the main trunk depends on different species, and the roots of the plants after trimming also need to be adjusted accordingly. The rotten old roots and old soil should be cleaned up, and they should be replanted with new culture soil. After they sprout again and grow into new plants, the cut branches can be used as materials for cutting propagation.
  Fourth, remove heterophytes. Among indoor ornamental plants, many variegated varieties are formed by bud mutation of green leaf plants. In the cultivation of variegated varieties, atavism often occurs and completely green branches sprout; these completely green branches are called heterophytes, which do not have the characteristics of this variety; at the same time, because the growth rate of all-green branches is much faster than that of variegated branches, if the green branches are not cut off in time, the variegated parts will soon be covered by green branches and leaves, losing the characteristics of the original variegated varieties; therefore, for variegated varieties of foliage plants, such as variegated Ficus pumila and variegated hibiscus, attention should be paid to cutting off the all-green branches sprouting from the plants at any time to maintain the normal growth of variegated foliage plants and have good ornamental value.
 
 
                             [Flower transplantation] 
 
       When plants planted in pots grow too large or are planted in the same pot for a long time, it is better to transplant them. Plants that were originally listless with roots all over the pot will regain vitality. If part of the flowers in the group planting in the planting box or hanging basket withers, it is also necessary to replant. The roots are sticking out from the bottom of the flower pot. The soil is hard and the drainage is poor. The soil at the root is bulging and part of it withers. If you want to make it bigger, it is important to grow a plant with balanced growth of stems, branches and leaves. Remove the black and rotten roots. Transplant in a larger flower pot with new soil. Water it abundantly.
      If you don't want it to grow larger, transplant it in a flower pot of the same size when you want to keep the plants at about the same size. Cut off the roots and branch tips to cultivate healthy plants. Cut a slit in the root and remove 1/4 of the root. Cut off the branch tips that extend too long. Transplant in a flower pot of the same size with new soil. Water it abundantly.
      If you need to plant annual herbs and perennial herbs at the same time, after the flowering season of the annual herbs ends, replace them with flowers of the next season in the corresponding position, so that you can enjoy the group planting for a long time.
      Only remove the withered annual herbs and transplant them. Once pruned, perennial herbs will stretch their stems again and the plants will be full of vitality. If you are considering transplanting in a hanging basket, it is more convenient to plant annual herbs in the upper part that is easy to transplant and perennial herbs on the side.
 
 
 
 
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